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U. S. HYDROGRAPHIG OFFIGB. 
No. 59. 



THE COASTS 



OF 



CHILE, BOLIVIA, AND PERU, 



'- 



COMPILED AT THE 



/ 

U. S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 




WASHINGT* 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, 
1876. 



^ 






■0 



So 



ADVERTISEMENT 



The basis of these directions and the description of the coasts of Chile, 
Bolivia, and Peru have been the works of Capt. F. Chardonneau, of 
the French navy, and of Capt. Aurelio Garcia y Garcia, of the Peru- 
vian navy, Les Instructions nautiqiies sur les Cotes du Chile et de la Bo- 
livie, and El Derrotero de la Costa del Peru. In the compilation, extracts 
have been made from the Surveys on the Coast of Chile, by Captains 
Simpson and Gormaz, of the Chilean navy; from Notices of the Exam- 
ination of the Coast of Chile, now in progress, under the direction of 
Lieutenant Uribe, Chilean navy; from El Annuario Rydrografieo de 
Chile; the British Admiralty South America Pilot; the American 
Cyclopaedia, and the remark -books of officers of the U. S. Navy, together 
with the most recent British Admiralty, French, and Chilean charts, 
notices, &c. 

E, H. W. 

U. S. Hydro graphic Office, 

Washington, D. C. 



NOTE 



All courses and bearings are true, unless otherwise stated. 

The distances are expressed in nautical miles. 

The longitudes are from the meridian of Greenwich. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Advertisement Ill 

Note IV 

CHILE. 

CHAPTER I. 

General description of Chile 26 

Limits ; territorial divisions ; history ; general appearance of the country 
and coasts ; products ; earthquakes ; rising of the soil ; climate ; tides ; 
variation; coastwise routes; routes to westward ; steamship liues; gen- 
eral commerce. 

CHAPTER II. 

Description of the coast of Chile from the gulf of Pen as to CniLOE.. 54 

Peninsula of Taytao; Chonos archipelago; Pulluche or Wickham chan- 
nel; Guaitecas island; Melinka ; Moraleda channel; Mnualaca chan- 
nel; estuary of Aysen ; San Rafael channel. 

CHAPTER III. 

CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO 85 

Ancud or San Carlos ; strait of Chacao ; gulf of Ancud ; Chauques or 
Changues Islands ; Desertores islands ; gulf of Corcovado. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Coast of the Continent opposite Chiloe 122 

Ahtao island; Calhuco island; gulf of Reloncavi; Puerto Montt or Meli- 
pulli ; estuary of Reloncavi ; estuary of Comau or Leteu. 

CHAPTER V. 

From Chiloe to Valdivia 154 

Estuary of the Rio Maulli it ; anchorage of San Pedro; Condor cove; Mi- 
lagro cove ; port of Valdivia or Corral ; Valdivia. 

CHAPTER VI. 

From Valdivia to Concepcion 189 

Queule; Tolten; Mocha island; Lehu ; Santa Maria island ; Lota; Coro- 
nel ; Talcahuano ; Concepcion ; Tome". 

CHAPTER VII. 
From Concepcion to Coquimbo 222 

Constitucion; San Antonio Nuevo; Valparaiso; Quintero; Papudo; Pichi- 
danqui : los Vilos ; Tongoy. 



VI TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

From Coqu imbo to the frontier of Bolivia ; cape Jara 253 

Guyacan ; Coquiuibo; Totoratillo; Hu isco; Carrisal Bajo ; Copiap6 ; Cal- 
dera ; Pan de Azucar. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Islands off the coast of Chile 262 

Juan Fernandez ; bay of San Juan Bautista or Cumberland ; Mas a Fuera ; 
San Ambrosio ; San Felix. 

BOLIVIA. 

CHAPTER X. 

Description of the coast of Bolivia from cape Jara to the riyer Loa 277 

General remarks ; Antofagasta ; Mexillones; Cobija. 

PER tJ. 
CHAPTER XI. 

General remarks on Peru 296 

Limits ; aspect of tbe coast and country ; products ; gnano coasts ; winds ; 
calms; fogs; dew; tides; currents; temperature; earthquakes; routes; 
coastwise routes. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Description of the coast of Peru from the river Loa to cape Nazca.. . 328 

Iquique; Guaina Pisagua; Arica; Ilo; Mollendo; Islay ; Quilca; San 



CHAPTER XIII. 

From cape Nazca to the bay of Casma 371 

Independencia bay; Pisco; Chincha islands; Callao ; Ancon ; Huacho ; 
Huarmey. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

From the bay of Casma to the river Tumbez 40 

Casma ;• Samanco ; Guanape islands; Salaverry; Huanchaco; Malabrigo; 
Pacasmayo; EteD; Lobos islands; San Jose" de Lambayeque; Paita; 
Tumbez. 



VIEWS. 



No. Page. 

I. Approaches to Anna Pink bay 29 

Coast from Rees island to cape Tres Mmtes 

II. Approaches to San Carlos de Aucud 59 

Approaches to port Melinka from the north 

III. Concepcion Bay 

Off Maule river entrance 133 

IV. Approaches to Pichidanqni bay from the northward 

Coquimbobay 

Guyacan bay 209 

V. Approaches to Caldera bay from the south 

Copiapd bay 241 

VI. Coast from Plata point to Grande point, including Paposa bay 

Anchorage off Antofagista 253 

VII. Cobija bay 

Coast from Low point to Tetas point 273 

VIII. San Felix and San Ambrosio group 

Juan Fernandez and Mas a Fuera 257 

IX. Coast of Peru between latitudes 22° and 19° S 299 

X. Coast of Peril between latitudes 19° and 17° S 309 

XI. Coast of Peru between latitudes 17° and 16° S 321 

XII. Coast of Peril between latitudes 16° and 15 c S 327 

XIII. Coast of Peru between latitudes 15° and 14° S 331 

XrV. Coast of Peru between latitudes 14° and 12 J° S 339 

XV. Coast of Peru between latitudes 12£° and 11£° S 345 

XVI. Coast of Perl between latitudes 11J° and 10° S 365 

XVII. Coast of Peru between latitudes 10° and 8£° S 373 

XVIII. Coast of Peru between latitudes 8£ and 7° S 381 

XIX. Coast of Peru between latitudes 7 C and 5° S 393 



ERRATA. 



Page 6, for " coffee " read " copper." 

Page 29, for " Tatayo " read " Taytao." 

Page 30, for " Melcher " read " San Melchor." 

Page 37, for " Tatayo " read « Taytao." 

Page 37, for " Yeuche Mo " read " Ynche Mo." 

Page 86, for " Abato" read " Abtao." 

Page 88, for "Nahuelhuahi" read " Nahuelhuapi." 

Page 93, for " Quniched " read " Quinched." 

Page 118, for " Pachuapi" read " Paehuapi." 

Page 170, for " Fort Viel " read u Port Viel." 

Page 196, for " Tapolcama " read " Topolcama." 

Page 199, for " Fort San Antonio " read " Port San Antonio." 

Page 343, for " Salzar" read " Salazar." 

Page 357, for " Carmotal " read " Camotal." 

Plate X, for " Victor" read " Vitor." 

Plate XVI, for " Legarto " read " Lagarto." 



THE COAST OF CHILE, 



FROM THE 



GULF OF PENAS TO THE BOUNDARY OF BOLIVIA, 



WITH THE 



OFF-LYING ISLANDS. 



THE COAST OF CHILE, FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO THE 
BOUNDARY OF BOLIVIA, WITH THE OFF-LYING ISLANDS. 



CHAPTER I. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

The republic of Chile* is bounded on the north by Bolivia; 
the 24th i^arallel of south latitude, which is seven miles to 
the southward of cape Jara, is the dividing line between these 
two states from the Pacific coast to the Andes. The tract 
of land comprised between the 23d and 24th parallels is in 
fact considered neutral territory, t The boundary line then 
follows the crest of the Andes to the Rio Negro, and thence 
the course of this river to the Atlantic ocean ; these two 
natural boundaries separate this country from the Argentine 
Republic. 

Chile claims the whole of Patagonia, though the Argen- 
tine Republic contests a portion of it, and by establishing a 
settlement at Punta Arenas in the strait of Magellan, Chile 
pretended to secure the entire possession, and a protest filed 
by the consul-general of Chile at London in 1872 clearly 
established this claim. 

These directions will treat only of that portion of the 
Chilian coast comprised between cape Tres-Montes and the 
river Loa. 

In 1872 the population of Chile was about two millions. 

The capital is Santiago. 

The provinces on the coast, commencing at the north, are 
as follows : Atacama, Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Valparaiso, 
Maule and Colchagua, Concepcion, Valdivia, Llanquihue, 
Chiloe, Magallanes. 

* According to Maliua, the word Chile or Tchili is derived from the 
cry of a thrush which is very common in this country. 

t This tract, which comprises the desert of Atacama, was considered 
without value. Since the discoveries of mines of precious metals and of 
copper, numerous difficulties have arisen between these two countries, 
brought about by the explorers of this territory. 
1 C 



Boundaries. 



Population. 

Capital. 

Maritime 
provinces. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

The maritime governors of these provinces reside as fol- 
lows : of Atacama, at Caldera ; there are subdelegates at 
Sarco, Peiia Blanca, Huasco, Carrizel-Bajo, Ohanaral, Pan 
de Azucar, Taltal, and Paposo ; of Ooquimbo, at Coquimbo j 
subdelegates at Guyaean, Tongoy, and Totoralillo ; of 
Aconcagua, at Papudo ; subdelegates at los Yilos and 
Pichidanqui; of Yalparaiso, at Valparaiso 5 subdelegate 
at San Antonio ; of Maule and Colchagua, at Constitueion ; 
subdelegates at Llico, and Buchupureo, and at Ouranipe ; of 
Conception, at Talcahuano; subdelegates at Tome, Coro- 
nel, Lota, and Lebu ; of Yaldivia, at Corral ; a subdelegate 
at Queule 5 of Llanquihue, the maritime governor resides at 
Puerto Montt, a subdelegate at Calbuco; of Chiloe, at 
Ancud, a subdelegate at Melinka, (Guaiteca Grande ;) of 
Magallanes, the governor resides at Punta Arenas. 
History. Chile to the Kio Maule was part of the empire of the 

Incas. Diego Almagro, the lieutenant of Pizarro, first led 
the Spaniards to this country in 1535. It was conquered 
by Pedro de Yaldivia during the years 1541 to 1554, he 
having laid the foundation of Santiago in December, 1540 ; 
of Serena in 1543, of Yalparaiso and Penco (old Concep- 
cion) in 1550, and of Imperial and Yaldivia in 1552. He 
commenced the struggle against the Araucanians, who, 
after many conflicts, captured him and put him to death in 
1559. 

For two centuries and a half the history of Chile is 
full of the events of this struggle. During this period the 
Araucanians defended their independence, and often with 
success. All the cities of the southern part of Chile were 
frequently destroyed by them, notably during the period 
from 1599 to 1604, and all excepting Imperial were obsti- 
nately rebuilt by the Spaniards. They were often forced to 
treat with the Araucanians and to observe the treaties. 

The Spaniards were also several times disturbed in their 
possession by the English buccaneers. Drake plundered 
Yalparaiso in 1578, Hawkins ravaged Chile in 1594, Nar- 
borough in 1668, Sharp in 1680. The Hollanders also 
plundered the coasts of Concepcion, Yaldivia, and Chiloe 
in 1600, 1615, and 1643. The selfish policy of the Spanish 
government produced the same effect in Chile as in its other 
colonies. Profiting by the revolution of 1808, the Chilians 



HISTORY. 

made their first efforts toward separation in 1810, but with, 
very little success. General San Martin, of Buenos Ayres, 
aided by Argentine troops and the remainder of the inde- 
pendent party, defeated the Spaniards at Chacabuco ; on the 
15th of February, 1817, took possession of Santiago, and by 
the victory of Maipo, April 5, 1818, assured the independ- 
ence of Chile, although the war was continued until 1822. 
Valdivia was held by the Spaniards until 1820, when it 
was captured by the English Admiral Cochrane, who had 
formed a Chilian navy, placing himself at its head. Chiloe 
was finally incorporated in the republic in 1826. The re- 
public then gave its assistance to all the other Spanish col- 
onies, especially to Peru, in their struggles against the 
mother country. 

After the declaration of independence, Chile, like its 
sister South American republics, was rent by civil discord 
until 1830. The radicals, who had Pinto and Freire for their 
chiefs and generals, battled against the conservatives, who 
were led by O'Higgius and Prieto. The latter finally tri- 
umphed in the battle of Lircay, the 17th of August, 1830, 
and instituted the conservative progressive form of govern- 
ment which gave to Chile forty years of almost uninter- 
rupted prosperity. The country became settled little by 
little, and owing to the wisdom of the inhabitants the revo- 
lutions were superseded by a peaceful constitution. 

President Prieto, who was elected in 1832, and supported 
by a true statesman, Portales, was re-elected in 1836. Gen- 
eral Bulnes, also twice president, 1841 to 1851, had a tran- 
quil administration, but after his term of office was called 
to suppress a serious insurrection caused by the radicals. 
He then became the commandant of the troops raised by 
President Montt, who had succeeded him in 1851, and was 
re-elected in 1856. During his second presidency he had 
to struggle against a combination formed by the radicals 
and ultra-conservatives. He was successful, and trans- 
mitted his office peaceably to Perez in 1861, who continued 
in office until 1871. Under his administration the most 
important event was the war against Spain, in which this 
republic had Peru, Bolivia, and Equador for its allies. The 
principal incidents of this war were the capture of the 
Spanish steamer la Covadonga by the Chilian corvette Es- 



4 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

meralda, the blockade and bombardment of Valparaiso in 
1805, and the undecided battle of Abtao between two Span- 
ish frigates and the Chilian squadron. Perez transmitted 
his charge to Errazuriz in 1871. 

The province of Araucaniais still independent, nominally 
under the government of Chile. It formerly extended from 
the Eio Biobio to the gulf of Ancud, but at present it com- 
prises only the territory between the Eio Imperial to the 
north, and the low land of Valdivia to the south. Although 
the Araucanians have been driven to the interior, they do 
not allow the Chilians to penetrate into their country. The 
latter have occupied the coast daring the last few years, 
and have erected forts at Tolten and at Queule, which have 
become the centers of this territory. In 1869 it was only 
with great difficulty that the Chilian commission could pen- 
etrate to the ruins of Imperial, fifteen miles from the coast. 

The Araucanians only tolerate a few missionaries. Dur- 
ing the last three centuries these people have decreased 
about 75 per cent. ; at present they number about 70,000, 
alcohol having proved a more formidable enemy to them 
than the European race. In 1862 the Araucanians again 
gave trouble under the lead of a Frenchman, De Tonneins, 
who claimed to be king of Araucania and Patagonia, under 
the title of Orelie Anotoine I. He was captured, but subse- 
quently released. 
General aspect Chile, which is the western slope of the Andes, varies in 

of the country ' x 7 

and coasts. breadth from eighty to two hundred and ten miles, and is 

traversed by the branches of this great Cordillera and by 
several smaller chains of mountains, running either par- 
allel or transversely to the Andes. The island of Chiloe, 
with its undulating plateaux, is the only exception to the 
general aspect of the coast, which is formed of one continu- 
ous line of steep cliffs. Certain portions of the coast of 
Araucania and a few points to the north of Valparaiso are 
formed by dunes and low sandy beaches. But here also it 
is easy to see that the granite formation of the Andes is not 
far off. In the south these steep shores are generally 
wooded, but advancing to the northward they become more 
barren, sterile, and dry. At Concepcion the eye is charmed 
with the richness of the foliage; at Valparaiso, which is two 
hundred and forty miles farther north, the hills are cov- 
ered with poor brushwood and a thin matting of grass. 



ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND COAST. 

At Coquiinbo, one hundred and eighty miles farther north, 
again small bushes take the place of the brushwood ; and at 
Huasco no trace of vegetation is visible, excepting near the 
small springs running from the snows of the Andes ; plains 
and hills are all covered with sand. 

Between Coquimbo and Copiapo there are some few farms 
and plantations, but at the latter point the desert of Ata- 
cama commences. 

The cordillera of the Andes trends nearly north and 
south, and its summits often rise higher than 22,960 feet. 
The principal of these are, Tupungato, to the east of San- 
tiago ; Descabezado : the volcanoes of Antuco, Villarica, 
Osorno, and Aconcagua. Although many of these peaks 
are visible from the sea, it is seldom that they can be used 
as a guide to the navigator ; they are often hidden by fogs, 
and when they are visible they can hardly be distinguished 
on account of their number and their almost equal heights. 
Their geographical positions are also inexact. The inferior 
ridges of the seacoast are, therefore, more useful. 

Such a chain of mountains renders the communication 
between Chile and the Argentine Eepublic difficult. Of the 
low mountain-passes, called puertos in this country as in the 
Pyrenees, the principal ones are those of Los Patos; of Por- 
tillo, which is the shortest and most dangerous ; of Upsal- 
lata or Cumbre, which is the one most generally used ; and 
of Planchon, in the province of Curico. These passes are 
all more or less dangerous. 

Toward the south the Andes are lower, and the passes 
more numerous ; but they are of no interest, as they only 
lead to tne desert of Patagonia. 

Many rivers have their sources in the Andes, and are fed 
by their snows ; but on account of their rapid descent and 
their limited extent, they are of little importance. The 
principal ones are the Eio Maullin ; the Eio Yaldivia, with 
its numerous tributaries, which admits vessels drawing 13 
feet of water ; the Tolten 5 the Eio Imperial, which has 16 
feet of water on its bar ; the Biobio, which has the greatest 
volume of water, but its mouth is silted up ; the Maule ; 
and the Eio Salado. Toward the north they are fewer and 
less important. Some of these rivers are the outlets of con- 
siderable lakes, such as the Llanquihue and Xahuelguapi. 



3 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

The coast of Chile, which is washed by the Pacific, in- 
clines gra dually to the eastward from Yaldivia to the Loa, 
which is the eastern point of the west coast of South Amer- 
ica. It has numerous indentations, which are protected 
from the southward by promontories, but open to north- 
ward. After leaving the archipelago of Chiloe and Chonos, 
where many sheltered bights are found, there are only two 
or three bays on the entire coast to Bolivia which offer the 
double advantage of protection both from the north and 
south. 

Lairf-faii. The coast, as may be inferred from its nature, is nearly 

everywhere steep and clean j a few miles from the shore 
the water is deep, and the coast can be approached, in favor- 
able weather, without fear. The shore, like that of Pata- 
gonia, is covered with large masses of sea-weed, which can 
be detected by their odor, especially at night, at a long 
distance from the land. 

Produce. The great difference of latitude between the extreme 

points of Chile insures a great" variety of produce. The 
narrow strip of land which constitutes the territory of 
Chile is divided into two almost equal parts by the beauti- 
ful valley of Aconcagua. In the part to northward of this 
line the spurs run out from the Andes perpendicular to the 
coast. Between them are extensive and thickly -populated 
valleys. One of these, that of Copiapo, furnishes silver in 
large quantities ; the next is that of Coquimbo, which 
exports half of the coffee used by the entire world. Next 
come those of Huasco, Ligua, and Petorca, celebrated, dur- 
ing the time of the Spaniards, for their production of gold. 
All this tract forms the mineral region of Chile, situated 
between 24° and 32° south latitude, comprising the prov- 
inces of Atacama, Coquimbo, and North Aconcagua. 

The part to the south of the line of Aconcagua is again 
divided into two parts by the Biobio. To the northward of 
this river lies the agricultural region, between 32° and 36° 
south latitude, which consists of the following provinces : 
South Aconcagua, Valparaiso, Santiago. Colchagua, Curico, 
Talca, Maule, Nuble, Concepcion , and North Arauco. Fi n ally, 
to the south of the Biobio lies the forest region, which com- 
prises the remaining territory, between 38° and 44° — the 



PRODUCTIONS. 7 

provinces of South Arauco, Valdivia, Chiloe, and Llan- 
quihue. 

The mineral region covers 46 per cent, of the superficial 
area, the agricultural region 28 per cent., and the wooded 
region 26 per cent. The proportion of the population in the 
first is 12 per cent., in the second 77 per cent., and in the 
third 11 per cent. 

Fishing is not carried on to any great extent. In the do Ani ™ai king- 
archipelagoes of Chiloe' and Chonos the seal-fishery is a 
source of profit, and many excellent shell-fish are in abun- 
dance. [Near the coast, whales, cod-fish, and sardines are 
taken ; the great depth of the water, however, is an obstacle 
to the development of fisheries. 

The domestic animals, without being of a superior qual- 
ity, prosper. Cattle thrive, but the sheep and hogs are 
only passable; the horses, donkeys, and, above all, the 
mules, are excellent; the llama, vicuna, and guanaco are 
also raised for their wool. There are two species of hares, 
and also two animals of the feline species, of moderate 
size, the jaguar and puma. The chinchilla, whose fur is 
so valuable, abounds in the uninhabited regions of the 
northeast. 

A large portion of the area of Chile is unproductive. The vegetable pro- 

. _ ,, . ,,„ ductions. 

extensive surface covered by mountains is too cold for vege- 
tation ; the deserts of the north, the large tracts covered by 
the primitive forest, and the districts inhabited by warlike 
Indians being deducted, leave but a comparatively small 
area for cultivation. The soil, however, where capable of 
cultivation, is fertile, and the yield so abundant that Chile 
exports considerable amounts of cereals and meats. The 
principal grains are wheat, barley, maize, and oats; but 
little rye is raised, there being no demand for it. Superior 
hemp is produced in the country north of Maipo ; beans 
and pease are a large and important crop. In the southern 
provinces the potato is of excellent quality. Fruits are abun- 
dant; including apples, pears, peaches, oranges, limes, 
nectarines, plums, figs, apricots, grapes, strawberries, and 
cherries. Melons, squashes, and gourds grow in perfection. 
The vine and olive tree are somewhat cultivated, but the 
wine and oil were for a long time bad, on account of the lit- 
tle care given them and tlie want of experience in their 



8 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

preparation. During the last few years some intelligent 
men have made it their business to improve these two pro- 
ducts, and they have succeeded. In one word, agriculture 
is not far advanced in this country, and the s~oil of Chile in 
general is not better than that of other countries in which 
granite predominates. All these products are European. 
Among those which belong to Chile is the Fucus antarcticus, 
which serves as nourishment for the inhabitants of the 
South, as well as for the Chinese; the A}°istotelia maqui, from 
which the Chilians extract the beverages called cici and theca, 
the valerian which serves for combustible in the Andes. 
The myrtle, the soap-tree, and tobacco grow in abundance. 
The tropical fruits are moderately good. The boldo must 
also be mentioned, which is celebrated for its property of 
healing all skin diseases. Finally, Chiloe, Chonos, and the 
part of the continent near them, is rich in magnificent 
woods for construction, of which the alerce, a species of 
larch, is the principal. From it the forests in which it is 
found are called alerzales. During the last few years com- 
merce has used it extensively. 
Mineral king- All the country abounds in mineral products, the working 
of which has largely increased in the last ten years. Mines 
of silver, gold, and, above all, copper, are worked, princi- 
pally in the provinces of Coquimbo and Atacama. Ac- 
cording to a popular saying, the copper mines always enrich 
the miner, whereas the result is doubtful in silver, and 
always ruinous in gold mines. This was due to the small 
capital which was at first put into these enterprises, and the 
high price of labor and transportation, for the veins are 
generally very rich. Thanks to the railroads recently con- 
structed, which connect the mines with the ports of the 
country, such as Caldera, Huasco, Chanaral, mining indus- 
try is progressing. Enterprises with large capital have 
been formed, and, as usual, those which were wisely created 
and conducted have succeeded. The number of mines 
worked in Chile is, gold, 95; silver, 424; and copper, 1,638. 
Since 1852 coal also has been mined. It is most abundant 
around the bay of Arauco, at Coronel, Lota, and Lebu. 
Copper founderies have been established around the mines, 
where all the residue is utilized. Although the use of this 
coal presented serious inconveniences at first, its discovery 



3IKXES— EARTHQUAKES. 9 

and mining has added undeniable resources to Chile and to 
the strangers who visit its coast. The manufacture of 
bricks and pottery-ware is also conducted on a large scale. 

Earthquakes, tierramotos, are very frequent in Chile. Those Barthqa 
of 1822, 1824, 1829, 1834, and 1835 are marked among the 
most disastrous. Santiago was destroyed four times in four- 
teen years. Penco, the ancient Concepcion, was never re- 
built. The earthquake of 1835 ruined the new Concepcion 
completely, and caused a rising of the ground of from four 
to five feet. The northern part of the island Santa Maria 
was submerged more than nine feet, and the southern por- . 
tion eight feet ; the water, however, subsided after a few 
months. The great earthquake of 18G8 caused but little 
damage in Chile ; in the ports, however, effects were expe- 
rienced analogous to those felt at Peru, but less severe. 
The phenomenon was felt at Talcahuano, Constituciou, Co- 
quimbo, Caldera, and at Cobija. At Talcahuano the sea de- 
stroyed a part of the houses built along the beach, and in- 
undated six miles of the coast toward Concepcion ; an Ital- 
ian vessel was thrown ashore. At Caldera the sea receded, 
then came back suddenly, and rose nearly thirteen feet above 
its ordinary level. The vessels swung very rapidly, and 
much damage was done by fouling ; an English three-masted 
vessel was thrown against the pier. 

These phenomena do not generally assume so disastrous 
proportions $ simple shocks, temblores, are felt, and these are 
so frequent that the inhabitants pay little attention to them. 
These shocks occur nearly every month, sometimes several 
days in succession, and sometimes even several times in 
each day. They are generally accompanied by subterran- 
ean noises. The constant expectation of these shocks has 
determined the mode of building the Chilean houses and 
cities. The houses are generally built of wood or adobe, 
(brick baked in the sun;) they have only one floor. The 
streets are wide, and cut each other at right angles aud 
terminate in large squares, which the inhabitants use as 
places of refuge. 

In addition to these occasional commotions of the ground, Risi ?£ of the 

° ' ground. 

the coast of Chile is constantly rising. On the promontories 
there are old beaches, where shell-fish of modern times are 



s. 



10 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



Climate. 



found. These beaches are at different elevations, and re- 
semble gigantic steps. 

From this it may be concluded that the coast is constantly 
rising, but that it takes place at intervals, with periods of 
repose intervening. The Indian word huapi, which means 
island, is now applied to many places, which are at present 
part of the main-land. Darwin found shells on the hills of 
the island Chiloe, at elevations of more than 328 feet; to the 
northward of Concepcion he found marks of the sea-level at 
722 feet above the present level. Near Valparaiso these 
marks are found at an elevation of 1,300 feet, but they 
lower again farther to the northward, and in Bolivia they 
are only 200 feet above the present level. It would seem 
that in Chile the coasts were elevated at the same time as 
the peaks of the Andes in the same latitude, but in a less 
degree. According to historical observations the ground 
rose six feet between the years 1614 and 1817, whereas from 
1817 to 1834 it rose 8.5 feet. This slow action has the effect 
of changing the configuration of the coast slowly ; all har- 
bors which were used in former times are now inaccessible 
and others have been formed. 

The geographical position of Chile causes the greatest va- 
riety of climate ; rainy and stormy in the south ; in the 
north it is subject to calms, the sky is clear, the country dry, 
with a great want of water. The mean of these two ex- 
tremes lies between Concepcion and Coquimbo. In describ- 
ing this climate it may be w T ell to divide the coast into two 
parts, the first being the part comprised between the Chro- 
nos archipelago and Concepcion. 



PART I.— FROM CHROMOS TO CONCEPTION. 

Barometer. The changes in the barometer can be relied upon as indi- 

cating changes of the wind when it is to the north or south 
of west. The barometer falls with the first and rises with 
the latter. 

The winds from the north to west bring air, saturated 
with the vapors of the ocean, from the hot latitudes near the 
equator; causing the fall of the mercurial column and rain. 
The winds from the southward of west originating in the 
antarctic zone, where the column of air is colder and more 
dense, cause the barometer to rise. 



BAROMETER. 11 

Observations made at Ancud at elevations of 16 and 90 
feet above the ocean, during a space of nineteen months, 
show the greatest height of the barometer to be 30.25 inches 
and the minimum 28 inches. The greatest absolute range, 
reduced to the freezing-point and level of the sea, was 1.94 
inches. The greatest annual range observed during the 
years 1857, 1863, 1866, and 1867 was 1.34 inches. 

The mean annual range deduced from the greatest monthly 
range observed during 1863,1866, and 1867 was 0.73 inch, 
and the daily range found from the same observations was 
0.04 inch. These last observations were only taken during 
the day, and cannot, therefore, represent the extreme 
changes in the barometric column, nor its daily curve, and 
are therefore incomplete ; but as the daily variation in the 
barometer at Ohilo6 can only be observed during the short 
intervals of fine weather, we can assume that these oscilla- 
tions are never greater than 0.039. 

The mean monthly height deduced from the observations 
of the above-mentioned years are as follows : 



Inches. 

January 29. 876 

February 29. 864 

March 29. 869 

April 29.756 

May 29.706 

June 29.739 



Inches. 

July 29.808 

August 29. 790 

September 29. 879 

October 29. 915 

November 29.803 

December 29.8L6 



The following are the mean heights for the different 

seasons : 

Inches. 



Inches. 

Summer 29.850 

Fall 29. 738 



Winter 29.779 

Spring 29. 866 



From which 29.870 is th.3 annual mean when reduced to 
the level of the sea. 

At Yaldivia, Puerto Montt, and Aucud the greatest pres- 
sure takes place during the spring; at Ancud the least pres- 
sure was found in the fall, at Puerto Montt in the winter, and 
at Yaldivia in the summer. If at Ancud 29.87 inches is taken 
as indicating " variable weather," and this figure increased 
or decreased by half the. mean monthly range, then 30.24 
will represent "fine weather" and 29.51 " bad weather." 
This agrees perfectly with the observations made. The 



12 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

great rain and wind storms always take place between the 
last-mentioned number and 28.30, and they are absolutely 
certain when the pressure is less than 29.02 inches. 
Temperature. Although the statistics of the maximum and minimum tem- 
peratures are not complete, owing to the hours of observa- 
tion and the want of special thermometers, the extremes 
observed may be considered as approximately correct : 

Maximum. Minimum. 
Valdivia 82°.40 . 30°.20 

Puerto Montt 82°.85 320.00 

Ancud 68°.00 32°. 00 

These localities give great differences. Ancud, which is 
near the sea, has a lower temperature and slighter oscilla- 
tions than Yaldivia and Puerto Montt, which are protected 
from the cold winds by the spurs of the Andes and the 
cordillera of the coast. 

Daily observations taken during the year 1887 give a mean 
daily range of 2°.073, which proves the regularity of tem- 
perature in this part of Chile. The warmest months are 
January and February ; June is the coldest. 

The mean temperature at Ancud for 1867 was 51°.60, all 
corrections having been applied. The difference of temper- 
ature between the winter and summer was 5°.96. 

It is ascertained from observation that there are a greater 
number of rainy days at Ancud than the combined number 
of clear and cloudy days, and that they are much more 
numerous than at Yaldivia or at Puerto Montt. 

Observations show that the number of rainy days in- 
crease with the latitude, which holds good even to the south- 
ward of Ancud. The greatest rain-fall at Ancud takes 
place during the months of May and June. 

The great rains of Yaldivia and Ghiloe are due to north- 
west currents of the atmosphere bringing hot vapors from the 
tropics, which are arrested in their progress by the Andes, 
and the cold current which the mountains engender con- 
denses them into rain. This is principally the case to the 
southward of the 38th parallel of latitude. This fact holds 
true for all the region to the westward of the Andes ; to the 
eastward of them there is but little rain. 

The uncultivated state of this country is the cause of the 
small range of the thermometer, rendered still smaller by the 
large quantities of rain. The country is but little cleared 



CLIMATE— WINDS. 13 

of forest ; on the contrary, it is observed that in the terri- 
tory of the Araucanians, where the population is decreas- 
ing, the forests are constantly enlarging. The effect of 
clearing can be observed on the vegetation near the mouth 
of the Eio Imperial, where it is quicker, better, and more 
active than at Tolten and Queule, which are in the same 
plain, but where the ground is densely covered with worth- 
less bushes and the mountains are barren and naked. The 
same may be observed in the vicinity of Valdivia, where 
places but short distances apart have very different daily 
ranges of the thermometer; for instance, Valdivia and Cu- 
tipai are favored with better weather, caused by the clearing 
for the benefit of agriculture. In all cases, however, the 
clearing of the land has but a feeble influence on the rain- 
fall, as this is principally caused by the Andes. 

Snow-storms are unknown on the sea-coast; hail-storms 
are only of short duration, and the hail-stones small. They 
occur mostly in the spring, and, contrary to the ordinary 
rule, during the night. Hail- storms never occur with north 
winds, or at least not until the wind is on the poiut of 
changing to the west or southward of west. 

Frost occurs frequently during the spring, but never on 
the coast. It is only observed in the interior of the main- 
land or on the large island of Ghiloe. 

Water-spouts are very rare on the land, in fact almost 
unknown. They are, however, often seen along the coast 
of Valdivia and Chiloe when a calm sets in after a squall 
from the NW., and also when the wind is about to change 
to the W. 

The prevailing winds on the coast of Valdivia and in the winds, 
archipelagoes of the south are those from the NW. and SW« 
quadrants. Northeasterly winds are damp, and precede 
bad weather; whereas, those from the southward and the 
eastward are dry, and bring good weather. They are not 
strong, however, and of short duration. The obstacle pre- 
sented by the Andes very seldom allows them to reach the 
coast with any force. There are cases on record, however, 
when they have blown with considerable violence. 

The following table shows the results obtained at Ancud 
during 1863 and 1867, the numbers representing the per 
centum of time they have blown during each month : 



14 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



Month. 



January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 



Percentage for one year. 



13.0 
10.5 
19.5 
19.5 
34.5 
15.5 
15.0 
17.5 
23.5 
14.5 
20.0 
19.5 



16.9 



NW. 



23.0 

18.5 

10.0 

22.0 

21. 

40. 

2d. 

29. 



21.7 



TV. 



9.5 
14.0 
33.5 
13.5 

8.5 
10.0 
10.0 
16.0 
13.5 
25.0 
12.5 

7.0 



14.4 



SW. 



40.5 

32.5 

18.5 

14.5 

1.5 

7.5 

12.5 

3.5 

8.5 

30.5 

25.5 

24.5 



18.2 



5.5 
19.5 
12.5 
6.0 
5.0 
5.5 
7.5 
3.0 
21.0 
8.0 
1.5 
0.0 



7. 1 



SE. 



1.0 
1.0 
0.0 
2.5 
6.0 
2.0 

13.5 
4.6 

13.0 
3.0 
1.0 
1.0 



4.0 



0.0 
0.0 
0.0 
5.5 



1.7 



NE. 



4.0 
0.0 
0.0 
6.0 

15.5 
8.5 
6.5 

16.0 
3.0 
3.0 
1.0 
1.0 



5.4 



Calm. 



3.5 

4.0 
6.0 

10.5 
0.0 
7.0 
5.0 
9.5 

18.0 
8.5 

18.0 

16.5 



8.9 



From this table it will be seen that the NW. wind is the 
most prevalent; next comes the SW., the N., and last the 
W. wind. The wind from the NE. and SE. quadrants might 
be called transient ; they occur less frequently than the 
calms. 

The winds from the S. to the W. prevail in the summer, 
and those from the N. to the W. during the winter. 
wSa anges ° f the From ^ ue beginning of spring, that is, the end of March, 
until September, the winds rise in the NE., blowing gently 
at first, but freshening as they veer to the northward ; they 
degenerate rapidly to a gale; especially when they pass 
quickly to NW. ; the atmosphere becomes damp and disa- 
greeable. Sometimes the wind oscillates at first between 
N. and NE. From NW. the wiud passes to SW., sometimes 
by degrees, at others with a sudden shift ; very often it 
changes forward and backward between NW. and SW., and 
backs to N. for several days; but during such change it 
never goes back to the eastward of N. When it goes back 
from SW. or WSW. to NW., bad weather must be expected. 
In this case it generally comes again from the SW. at sun- 
set, and the change is then so violent and unexpected as to 
endanger the masts of vessels. 

Before the shifts from NW. to SW., a clearing in the sky 
is generally observed between W. and SW., or a simple rent 
in the clouds to the S W. This is a sure sign, and mariners 
should be warned by it. This phenomenon resembles the 
bulPs-eye of the cyclonists, and was called by the Spaniards 
el ojo de torro. When the wind from the NW. is very fresh, 
and it rains very hard at the same time, a sudden change 
may be expected to the W. and SW. This usually takes 



WINDS. 15 

place about sunset. It may happen that the shift occurs 
during a heavy rain, or so quickly after its announcement 
that there is no time for preparation ; but this is rare. 

From SW. the wind passes to S. without any diminution 
of its force; then to SE., where it also often retains its 
strength, especially on the coast during the months of June, 
July, and August; it dies out between SE. and E., and 
rises again in the NE., after a calm of more or less duration. 
During these changes the barometer stands high. 

The winds from the 2TE. are very seldom fresh, and do not 
increase much until after passing the X. or XNW. point?. 
When the winds blow from the N. or XE., the vessels of the 
archipelago of Chiloe do not leave their anchorages, as the 
mariners know that the strongest squalls and heaviest rains 
come from those points. 

From September to March the winds from the SW. quad- 
rant predominate. They sometimes blow heavily, but with 
a clear sky and fine atmosphere. When the wind blows 
from the S. and SE., it becomes cold, and the weather fine. 
The wind dies out at SE.; and after a calm, with a clear 
sky, the wind springs up light from the NE.; it then be- 
comes cloudy, and rain commences to fall heavily. This 
generally lasts for two days, sometimes longer, until the 
winds change slowly against the sun to the southward of 
W., alter which the fine weather sets in again. 

During the spring and summer, lightning is an indication 
of strong wind, and it often precedes a sudden shift. Dur- 
ing the winter lightning is also common, and indicates 
changes of the wind. 

When the change of weather takes place during the night, 
sparks of electricity are seen in the atmosphere toward the 
horizon, and reports similar to those of a rifle are heard. 
Thunder is rarely heard at sea, but is frequently over the 
thick forests of Chiloe and on the continent. Certain phys- 
ical, thermometric, and barometric phenomena accompany 
the changes of the wind. After calms of short duration, 
which are accompanied by a high barometer and clear sky, 
the atmosphere between N". and E. becomes very clear, and 
a bluish or light-green tint is observed in the sky in those 
directions. The mercury then commences to fall slowly, 
and the temperature rises a little, according to the season. 



16 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

These phenomena together are a sure indication of a blow 
from the N. to W. in a few hours. A dark band rises to 
the northward, the sky becomes covered with a thick man- 
tle of clouds, and the northeast breeze freshens as it changes 
toward the N. At this point the wind has almost reached 
its full force, as it only increases a little when passing the 
NW. point. It generally remains variable between WNW. 
and NW. for a little while before it shifts gradually or sud- 
denly toward the W., WSW., and SW. During the great- 
est force of the squall it does not rain, but sometimes driz- 
zles lightly. The atmosphere is very hazy, and the clouds 
pass from N. to S. As soon as the rain commences, it be- 
comes necessary to watch the horizon in the W. and SW., 
in order not to be surprised by a sudden shift of wind. 

As long as the barometer falls, the weather remains bad, 
and the wind continues steady from the NW. If, however, 
the barometer remains at a stand during the time that the 
wind is strongest, double attention must be paid, as the 
change of wind is near. Sometimes this is announced by a 
sudden rise of the mercury, but this latter phenomenon 
ordinarily happens simultaneously with the shift of wind. 

WitlrNE. and NW. winds the barometer sometimes falls 
as low as 28.27 during the strongest part of the gale. 
In an ordinary gale the barometer does not fall below 
28.78. In case the shift of wind is only momentary, the 
barometer rises a little, then remains fixed for a short 
time, and afterward, when the wind has jumped back to 
NW., it again falls rapidly. 

I It happens sometimes that during a fresh southwest 
wind, the barometer falls slowly. In that case it is certain 
that the wind will shift in a squall to NW. and NNW., and 
that it will rain heavily when the wind is about to jump 
back to SW. or W. During these squalls the temperature 
is notably lower than during those which begin at the NE. 
and N., from which circumstance it can be supposed that 
they have a different origin from the former. These blows 
are fresh and short, and generally die out in the W. or S., 
toward sunset. The duration of the gales commencing from 
NE. is uncertain ; ordinarily they do not last longer than 
twenty- four hours, but they have continued two, three, four, 
and even ten days. 



WINDS. 



17 



In May, 18G7, a northerly gale commenced on the 14th, 
and blew variably from N. to XW. until the 27th. It 
changed to the W. on the 31st, and the breeze remained 
strong from that quarter for several days. In July, 1868, a 
gale from the ETW. lasted more thau five days. 

It is, therefore, evident that the gales on this part of the 
coast of Chile follow the same laws as those of high 
southern latitudes. The sudden shifts which occur from 
KUTW., NW., and WNW. to W., WSW. and SW., prove 
that these gales come generally from the westward, or some 
point farther to the X. If the wind, after shifting to SW., 
jumps back to NW., the vessel must have drifted to the cen- 
ter of a cyclone of small velocity, or two cyclones must be 
following each other closelv; but in all cases navigators 
should never lose sight of the fact that they are in a re- 
volving gale, in which the wind turns with the sun, and 
varies to the observer in the opposite direction. 

Some anomalies in these shifts of wind are cited. On the 
14th July, J 860, the Peruvian and Chilian squadron expe- 
rienced a gale which shifted from NE. to SE., and thence 
to SW.; the barometer fell to 29.41. This explained by 
the theory of storms, is that the center of the gale passed 
to the northward and right of the vessels of the squadron. 
It is known that such inverse gales in high latitudes are 
always accompanied by heavy squalls. 

PART II — FROM CONCEPCION TO COPIAPO. 



Proceeding to the northward the intensity of the rains 
diminishes and the harvests depend upon the humidity of the 
year. The southerly winds which predominate during nine 
months of the year are dry, and fatal to the cultivation ex- 
posed to their influence ; when the year is unusually moist 
the grass is abundant, and the cereals yield forty and even 
seventy fold, but when it is dry the cattle even have to be 
taken to the Cordillera. In certain localities, as in the vicin- 
ity of Valparaiso, the nightly dews moisten the ground and 
favor vegetation. 

The barometer in summer varies between 29.92 inches and 
30.32 inches, in the fall between 29.53 inches and 30.04 
inches; in the winter it falls as low as 29.14 inches. As in 
2c 



Baromet?r. 



18 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



Thermometer. 



Winds. 



the preceding region it falls with north and rises with south 
winds. 

In summer the temperature is moderate and rarely ex- 
ceeds 77°. and does not fall below 6S°. In the autumn the 
mean is between 57° and 59°, and in the winter between 53° 
and 55°. 

The phenomena which we have described in Part I, also 
takes place in this section, but with less force. In the bays 
the breeze is fresh daring the day and very light or calm 
during the night. In the spring the weather is generally 
fine, and the winds generally vary between SSE. and WS W. 
They sometimes alternate with winds between NNW. and 
W. In the summer the breezes are from S. to SW., and are 
accompanied by fine and dry weather. In the fall the north 
wind is most frequent, but after a calm it frequently blows 
from NW. ; it is during the winter, from the end of May to 
September, that rain and uortherly gales are most frequent; 
when the south wind sets in the weather becomes fine. 
Thunder and lightning are very rare. 

It can be generally stated that there are two sets of winds 
on this coast ; both are well defined but are of unequal dura 
tion. The winds from the N. and NE. are frequent in the 
winter, from the end of May to the middle of September. 
From September to the end of May, however, the southerly 
winds predominate and they often blow with great violence. 
These winds sometimes blow from a little to the westward 
and sometimes from a little to the eastward of south. 

During the three months of the bad season, frequent calms, 
and light and variable breezes from the W. to SW., are ex- 
perienced; these alternate with gales from the north, which 
cause heavy rains, not only on the coast, but also a consider- 
able distance to seaward. 

During the fine season, while the south wiuds prevail, the 
sky is generally clear, and there is but little rain eveu in the 
summer; however, there are at times strong northerly winds, 
accompanied by heavy rains, that last for two or three days. 
These exceptions are more rare to the northward of Co- 
quimbo than to the southward. 

During this season of the year, the south wind sets in 
about 11 a. m., sometimes later; it freshens rapidly, and 
often renders the anchoring of sailing-vessels difficult. It 



WINDS. 19 

is called the sea-breeze, although it actually blows along the 
coast; it generally dies out toward sunset, though some- 
times it lasts until midnight. At sea, between 25° and 35° 
south, this breeze sometimes obliges vessels to take two 
reefs in their top-sails; it is less strong than near the laud, 
but it does not die out daring the night. It will be observed 
that as the land is approached the breeze is stronger during 
the day and lighter daring the night ; or, when very near 
the land, that it falls calm during the night, then a light 
land-breeze springs up from the eastward ; this comes from 
the Cordillera, and only lasts a few hours. It is almost 
always accompanied by a clear sky. If during this breeze 
the skv becomes cloudy, it is a sure sign that the breeze at 
sea is very light, or that it is calm. It is also an indication 
of rain. A cloudy sky in tbe winter is a sign of an ap- 
proaching wind accompanied by rain. 

The shifts of wind generally take place against the sun, 
as on the southern portion of the coast ; the most violent 
coming from a point between north and west, it is well 
then for vessels to seek shelter behind the rocks or land 
which make out to the westward. During the summer it 
is best to anchor near the laud, so as not to be driven to 
sea by the squalls from the southward. In winter it is best 
to anchor farther out, on account of the northerly winds. 

In the region under discussion the approach of north 
winds is very well marked, the sky is overcast, and there is 
little or no wind uuless it may be from the eastward ; the 
swell sets from the northward and the tide is stronger than 
usual; the distant land is remarkably distinct and elevated 
by refraction, and the barometer falls. All northerly winds 
are by no means gales, and sometimes a whole winter may 
pass without a northerly wind which merits that uame ; at 
other times they are of frequent occurrence. The northerly 
gales never last longer than one day and one night, and 
ordinarily not so long. They shift to the westward with the 
weather still cloudy and with the strength of the wind un- 
diminished, and moderate as it hauls to the southward. It 
is very difficult to fix the northern limit of these winds; it 
is certain, however, that they are much less dangerous at 
Coquimbo, although strong uortherly winds and heavy seas 
have beeu known at Huasco (28° 21' S.) and at Copiapo, 



20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

(27° 20' S.) The English ship Conway experienced a heavy 
northerly gale in 25° S. latitude and 90° W. longitude. 

At Valparaiso (33° S.) these winds do not set in until the 
middle of May and they continue until September, decreasing 
continually in intensity. They have occurred, however, in 
April. 

The foregoing remarks apply to a belt extending from 
180 to 240 miles to seaward. 
currents. The waters of the South Pacific ocean, in a belt of which 

the mean latitude is about 50°, run in an oblique direction 
NE. toward the west coast of South America ; thence as 
a cold river along Chilo6 to the Galapagos islands, while 
another branch, separating opposite the gulf of Penas, 
forms the Cape Horn current. 

The northern branch of this current is called the " Hum- 
boldt current, or the current of Peru." It runs to the NE. 
to about the latitude of the island Mocha and then con- 
tinues to the northward. 

This direction (NE.) drifts vessels toward the coast, and 
when they are but a short distance from the land they should 
take this current into account, as it has caused several 
shipwrecks. Its change of direction from the NE. to IS", takes 
place about 180 to 240 miles from the coast. 

From the island of Mocha the current follows the trend 
of the coast, that is a direction between N. and N NE. ; its 
direction varies a little with the wind ; its diameter being 
about 120 miles abreast of Valparaiso, and it increases 
gradually. This current, aided by the wind, carries enor- 
mous masses of sand along the coast of Araucania and as 
far north as Valparaiso. This is deposited at all capes pro- 
jecting to the westward and in all the bays and harbors 
penetrating to the eastward. 

The temperature of the water in the Humboldt current is 
39° 20' in 47° S. latitude, and this increases farther to the 
northward. In the latitude of Valparaiso it is 52° 52' ; in 
that of Coquimbo, 57° 02' ; of Cobija and of Arica, 64° 58'. 
The observations of Dupetit-Thouars have proven, how- 
ever, that- these numbers are means, as the temperature 
of the current follows the variations of that of the surface. 
The velocity of this current varies greatly on the coast of 
Chile and Peru ; it is generally greater near the land than 



CURRENTS — TIDES. 21 

at sea. Between Valparaiso and Oobija it runs at the rate 
of 26 miles per day ; 15 miles per day is about the av- 
erage velocity. The current is sometimes altogether ar- 
rested and sometimes reversed. Lartigue, and afterward 
Fitz-Roy, observed the current to run south in different lati- 
tudes, after strong northerly wind; but, according to Fitz- 
Roy, this does not prove anything definitely. The Russian 
admiral Litke observed no currents to the northward until 
north of Ooucepcion, and then very feeble, although he kept 
near the shore, the wiuds being light and variable from NE. 
to NW. During one day he had the current running to the 
southward. Between cape. Pilar (51° S.) and Valparaiso, 
(33° S.,) Admiral Fleuriot de Langle observed a NB. cur- 
rent in the spriug; a WSW. current during the summer; 
E. i N. during the fall, and WKW. during the winter. From 
this we conclude that the southerly current is rare, the 
northerly ones much more frequent, and that the latter run 
alternately to the eastward and westward of this point. 
The last-mentioned observer speaks of strong and frequent 
currents to the westward during the summer. 

To the northward of Chiloe the rise and fall of the tide is 
never more than 6 feet, the general limit being 1.9 feet. It 
is not, however, the same for the archipelago of Chiloe and 
Chonos. When the flood-tide sets in it runs arouud both 
the north and south end of Chiloe at the same time. The 
former runs with great force, through the straits of Chacao, 
into the gulf of Ancud, where it produces violent eddies. 
After running around the gulf of Reloncavi, and around the 
archipelago of Calbuco, its general course is S. During this 
time the other branch, iu running to the northward, passes 
through the channel which separates the Guaitecas from 
Chiloe. These two tides meet in the latitude of the Deser- 
tores and Chauliuec islands and counteract each other. The 
ebb-tide runs to the northward, in the gulf of Ancud, and. 
to the southward in the gulf of Corcovado. 

It will be readily understood that at certain points near 
the limit of the two floods there are very high tides. At 
the Carelmapu islands, opposite San Carlos de Ancud, the 
rise and fall of the spring-tides amounts to 10 feet; in the 
straits of Chacao it is 11 feet; in the cove of Oscuro, 22 feet, 
and at Huildad, 16 feet. If, iu addition to this, the influ- 



Tides. 



22 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

ence of the wind is considered, the irregularity of the tides 
on the E. coast of Chiloe is not astonishing. 
Magnetic varia- Tn e variation is easterly on the whole coast of Chile. 
From observations at various dates and from various 
sources, the variation diminishes to the north, on the average, 
about 20 minutes for every degree of latitude, the decrease 
gradually diminishing northward. The absolute value of 
the variation, however, increases about 1£ minutes annually. 
The curves of variation trend from the coast in a WNW. 
direction, but only for a short distance, to about the 83d me- 
ridian, where they bend down in a WSW. direction. 
coasting routes, rp^ I10r therly and southwesterly winds, which are the 
most prevalent on the coast of* Chile," determine the course 
to be taken in all coasting voyages. Valparaiso, being a 
central position, will be taken as the point of departure and 
of arrival. 
o/thT u?f P on?e* ^ssels bound to Valparaiso, or a point to the northward 
Has to Valparaiso. f jt, from cape Horn or cape Pilar, should get well to the 
westward, and, when the wind shifts, be able to steer di- 
rectly north without being encumbered by the land. This 
run is generally short, vessels frequently making from cape 
Pilar to Valparaiso in eight days ; from the gulf of Penas 
in six: twelve days being a medium passage from the strait 
of Magellan to Valparaiso. Vessels from the gulf of Penas 
. to Valparaiso should follow the same rule; they should get 
well off the land, as far as the meridian of 80°. 
rateS°totheTouth- ^ De southerly winds render this a hard and tedious pas- 
ward - sage ; it is frequently necessary to carry two reefs in the top- 

sails, and to stand on the port-tack, unless a northerly gale 
should allow of a direct course. These, however, continue 
generally but a short time. The stretch on the port-tack 
must be regulated by the season and the point to be reached. 
From vaipa- if bound to Maule or Talcahuano, during the fine season, 

raiso to the bay ' & ' 

of concepcion. the stretch on the port- tack should extend but half the dis- 
tance between Valparaiso and Juan Fernandez, and then 
stand in for the land. By this course the chances of a north 
wind are reserved, and the sea is smoother nearer the land. 
Very often the topgallant sails can be carried near the coast 
when the topsails have to be double-reefed farther out on 
account of the heavy sea. 

To within a certain distance of the land the winds vary 



From Valpa- 
raiso to Valdivia 



COASTING ROUTES. 23 

between SSE. and SSW., which mast be looked to when 
beating to the southward ; in that case vessels should run 
on the starboard tack with S W. winds, and on the port 
tack with SE. winds. The first blow, generally, during 
the day, the last during the night. Near the coast, account 
must be taken of the currents and tides. According to 
Admiral Oosnier, this is the way in which the coasters of 
the country navigate. 

Admiral Fleuriot de Llangle recommends the use of the 
thermometer, instead of sounding, on this part of the coast. 
According to his observations, the air has always a much 
higher temperature than the water, about 5°, and the tem- 
perature of the water falls on approaching the shore. 

A vessel bound south of the bay of Concepcion, to Ohiloe 
or Valdivia for example, must stand on the port tack, and Chilo6< 
especially in the bad season, until off Juan Feruaudez or 
Mas-a Fuera, which are points easily recognized ; then tack, 
but keep close to the wind until in the latitude, or even 
south, of the place of destination. 

This passage, which requires about twenty days, is tedious ra £j°™ cap 7pu£ 
and laborious. It is advisable to stand out from Valparaiso or ca P e Horn - 
on the port tack for about 600 miles, or until the 86° or 88° 
meridian is reached ; thus, a vessel would sometimes pass 
to northward of Juan Fernandez and Mas-a-Fuera. In these 
latitudes, (30° or 35°,) with the winds generally from the . 
southward, it is best not to try to make southing without 
westing ; it is advisable, therefore, to stand to the SW. o*n 
leaving Valparaiso, at the start, even should the wind be 
from the northward. After reaching the 86° or 88° merid- 
ian, it is best to stand as far as 50° without losing any west- 
ing, if possible, aud then steer a direct course for the straits 
of Magellan or cape Horn. If bound to cape Pilar, vessels 
will make the land too far south if they do not take into 
account the influence of the current, which, from the gulf of 
Penas, sets to the southward along the coast. 

There is no difficulty in passages to the northward, as Routes from 
they are generally made with a fair wind. northward. 

If bound to Arica, or a port to the southward of it, it is 
best to remain in sight of the land as much as possible, but 
not so near as to risk its vicinity cutting off the breeze ; the 



24 G-ENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

influence of the coast-current is then felt and the danger of 
missing a port, owing to fogs, is avoided. 

If bound to a port to the northward of Arica, as Pisco, 
Oallao, or Paita, it is best to stand a little out to sea, so as 
to have the wind more steady and to avoid the bight of 
Arica, which is subject to calms. 

Routes to the Under this head are comprised the routes to California, 
westward. China, Polynesia, Australia, and India, and the return from 

those countries to Valparaiso. A few general remarks, only, 
will be made on these. 

From vaipa- On leaving Valparaiso for California it is best to staud 
an^return. 1 01 ""NW. until in latitude 15° south and longitude 95° W., where 
the Maury route from cape Horn to California is inter- 
sected; Maury's route should then be followed. On the return 
trip from California, as soon as well clear of the land, steer 
to the south, crossing the NE. trades and equatorial calms? 
and taking the SE. trades good full ; when upon taking the 
westerly winds of the Southern ocean and reaching 35° 
south latitude, which parallel is to the southward of Valpa- 
raiso, a direct course can be made to that port during the 
winter; but make the land a little to the southward during 
the season of the southerly winds. If the westerly winds 
are not well defined in latitude 35° it is best to stand farther 
to the southward. 

Prom vaipa- The passage from Valparaiso to China is made with the 
relum? CMna and help of both trad es. It is only necessary to stand far enough 
t<5 the north or south, according to the seasou of the mon- 
soons, keeping far. enough to the northward during the NE. 
monsoon, and far enough to the southward during the SW. 
monsoon to reach the point of destination. For a return 
voyage it is best to stand to the eastward of the archipelago 
of Japan until in 30° north latitude. From there the west- 
erly winds will take a vessel near the Sandwich Islands j 
from this point the route from California to Valparaiso is 
taken. This route is very laborious during the NE. mon- 
soon, and many vessels take a route to the westward of 
Australia. 

From vaipa- In this passage a vessel has simplv to keep in the SE. 

raiso to Australia, , ., ,,. ,. , * , • , . ,..+■, 

(Sydney.) trades, avoid getting too tar north, and make southing little 

by little, in passing to the southward of New Caledonia. 
For the return trip a vessel should pass to the southward 



EOUTES TO THE WESTWAED. 25 

of Xew Zealand, as that route approaches a great circle, 
and make the longitude on the parallel of 45°. The -north- 
ing is made little by little by keeping in the general current 
and afterward in the Humboldt current. 

There are no special directions for the passage from Val- 
paraiso to Polynesia, as it presents no difficulties. To re- 
turn to Chile it is necessary to make use of the westerly 
winds which blow to the southward of 35°. 

The voyage from Valparaiso to India can be made in two From yaipa. 

J & l raiso to India. 

ways, around cape Horn, or through the trade-wind belts 
of the Pacific. It is best during some seasons, especially 
those of the SW. monsoons in the China seas and Indian 
ocean, to take the route around cape Horn. But this is 
always rough, and a good look-out for ice must be kept on 
the passage between cape Horn and the cape of Good Hope. 
In either case it will be necessary to study the winds of the 
different seasons. 

There are several lines of steamers, having their terminus tio ^* am naviga - 
at Valparaiso, which make regular trips to Liverpool, by way 
of the strait of Magellan on the one side, and to Pauama and 
the intermediate ports on th e other, connecting with steamers 
at Aspinwall to the West Indies, the United States and 
Europe; in addition to which, there are several smaller 
steamers engaged in the coasting trade of Chile. * 

Compared with its population, Chile is one of the greatest • -Y anuf acture3 

1 i j. 7 o an( j commerce. 

commercial countries of the world. It is also the port of 
entry for the south of Bolivia and for the northwest prov- 
inces of the Argentine republic. Its commercial importance 
shows yearly progress, attributable to its agricultural and 
mineral wealth, as well as to its industrious and peaceable 
population. 

The manufactures of Chile under the patronage of the 
government are increasing. Among them are hempen 
cloths, cordage, soap, tallow, leather, charcoal, flour, brandy, 
the coarser works in gold, silver, copper, and iron, earthen 
jars, and ponchos; charqui, or beef dried in the sun, is also 
produced in considerable quantities. The greater part of 
the foreign trade is with Great Britain. The articles mostly 
exported are lead, copper, silver, wheat, flour, barley, hides, 
and wool; and in the imports are included nearly every va- 
riety of manufactures and foreign products. 



26 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



Railroads. 



Telegraph. 



During the thirty years preceding 1874, the value of the 
imports and exports of Chile has increased from, imports, 
8,596,674 pesos— (the peso being, at the average rate of ex- 
change, 96.8 cents) — exports, 6,087,023 pesos — to, imports, 
38,418,000 pesos— exports, 36,541,000 pesos. The total value 
of the commerce of Chile, including her coasting-trade, for 
the year 1874, was 120,795,000 pesos. Of this, the imports 
from the United States amounted to 2,150,000 pesos, the ex- 
ports to the United States 553,000 pesos. 

Chile was one of the first of the South American states to 
encourage the construction of lines of railroads. At present, 
there are completed and in course of construction about 805 
miles of road ; 580 miles of which is the property of the gov- 
ernment, 225 being that of companies. A road across the 
Andes between Chile and the Argentine Confederation is in 
contemplation. The length of the road would be about 
1,023 miles. 

In 1873 there were in Chile 3,043 miles of telegraph. The 
Trans-Andine telegraph, connecting Santiago and Buenos 
Ay res, was opened to the public in 1872. 



CHAPTER II. 

FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE, THE PENINSULA OF TAYTAO, 
THE ARCHIPELAGOES OF CHONOS AND GUIATECAS. 

Variation, 1876.— Cape Tres Monies, 21° 25' E. ; Chonos and Gnaitecas archipelago, 
20° 19' E. ; increasing about V 30" annually. 

Cape Tres Monies, the southern extremity of the peninsula T * e ££ Bllla of 
of Tres Monies and Taytao, is a remarkable promoutory te £ a P eTresMon - 
2,000 feet above the level of the sea; is readily recognized, 
and is a comparatively sale point to make in bad weather, 
with the wind blowing on shore. There is no sensible cur- 
rent, and with the wind on shore, or, when overtaken by the 
night, a vessel has sea-room to lay-by until daylight. 

Cape Raper is 14 miles to the NNW. of cape Ties Montes, cape Raper. 
in latitude 46° 49'. From it the rocks and breakers project 
1£ miles to seaward. This cape is one-third higher than cape 
Tres Monies. The side toward the sea is barren, and ends 
almost perpendicularly. The three sand-beaches between 
these two capes cannot be approached, owing to the con- 
stant heavy swell and breakers. 

The coast from cape Ties Montes to capes Raper and 
Gallegos is free from outlying dangers ; the water is deep, 
and the land has an elevation of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet. 

The tides have seldom a greater rise than 6 feet. Tides. 

Cape Gallegos is a wall-sided promontory which rises per- San Andres 
pendicularly from the water, and is barren toward the sea. 
To the eastward of it is San Andres bay, which cannot be 
used by large vessels; small vessels can find a good anchor- 
age in Christmas cove, which is uot quite half a mile broad, Christmas cove. 
but is protected against all winds excepting those from the 
north ; these winds may seem dangerous at first, but it will 
be found that they are more so iu appearance than iu reality, 
for they do not become violent until well to the westward 
of north, and the sea has not time to rise before that. The 
Beagle passed several days quietly iu this anchorage, while 
a strong gale from the westward was blowing outside. It 
has from 11 to 19 fathoms of water, sandy bottom. 



28 CAPE TAYTAO. 

cone inlet. Cone inlet is a long and narrow cove about 1 mile to the 

southward and eastward of Christmas cove ; it extends into 
the shore to the foot of a remarkable conical mountain, 
1,600 feet high; it is perfectly shelteredjand has a depth of 
water of 16 fathoms; it is a passable stopping-place for a 
steamer, inside of the island at its entrance, where she can 
moor with stern lines on shore; it is not, however, a suita- 
ble anchorage for a sailing-vessel, being very narrow and 
difficult of access. There is no swell inside Cone inlet even 
with NW. winds ; there is a natural basin on the NE. side. 
In the northern part of the bay of San Andres, at the 
bottom of a deep indentation, there is a large basin, called 
Useless cove, as no vessel can enter it. Cape Pringle is the 
northern point of the bay of San Andres. Between this 
cape and Rescue point, 18 miles to the northward, the land 
falls considerably. There may be good anchorage in Stew- 
art bay and Cliff cove, but they have not as yet been ex- 
plored. 

port san Este- Port San Estevan is 20 miles NE. of cape Pringle ; a 
good anchorage with 10 fathoms water is found behind the 
scattered rocks off point Eescue ; good water can be ob- 
tained in the river at the head of this arm of the sea, and 
also in the brooks near the anchorage. Dark hill, which 
rises 2,150 feet above the sea, is an excellent landmark for 
this port. Vessels can pass 200 yards outside of the rocks 
of Eescue point, and anchor on the west shore under the 
shelter of the reefs. 

Heiiyer rocks. Hellyer Eocks is a dangerous group of rocks, hardly 
showing above the water, on which the sea breaks ; they 
are N. 1° E. from point Rescue and 6 miles from the near- 
est land, Duende island. 

cape Taytao. From point Eescue to cape Taytao the coast is broken 
and abrupt. The latter cape is K 10° E., 25 miles from the 
entrance to Sau Estevan. There are undoubtedly anchor- 
ages to leeward of Usborne islands, behind mount Alex- 
ander, in Cornish cove, or mgre to the northward in Burns 
inlet, but they have not been as yet examined. 

Cape Taytao is one of the most remarkable promontories 
on this coast. It resembles an island with a pointed sum- 
mit ; is 3,000 feet high, rugged, barren, and steep, and is 






:ii 






l^ii! 



FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 



29 



Arna Pink bay. 



Yuche-M o 
land. 



surrounded by several rocks, but none of these are more 
than one mile from shore. 

On rounding this promontory Anna Pink bay is to the 
east. The Anna Pink, a transport of Lord Anson, sought 
shelter in one of the coves of this bay against a westerly 
gale ; she anchored behind the island Yuche-Mo, but drag- 
ged across the bay, and after having slipped or cut her 
cables, she reached Port Eefuge in the SE. portion of the 
bay, where she repaired damages in security. 

On. the west shore of the bay of Anna Pink is Yuche-Mo 
island, 460 feet high. On this island were found the ruins 
of a large log hut and a number of goats, by the officers of 
the Beagle. It is probable tlmt the Anna Pink did not 
anchor close enough to this island, as there is good bottom 
on the east side in 15 to 20 fathoms of water, with Penguin 
island bearing N. 21° E., and the summit of Yuche-Mo S. 
66o W. 

Oa naveral cove is situated on the southern side of the Canaveral cove. 
entrance to Port Eeiuge; though small, it is very conven- 
ient for refitting and repairing. 

Patch cove, to the westward of Gallegos island and 
WSW. from the entrance to Port Refuge, is so small that it 
cannot be used by vessels of more than 200 tons. 

Port Eefuge is bounded by high mountains, and to the 
ESE. sheltered by Yuche-Mo ; it is a long, narrow, and deep 
inlet, in shape of a cornucopia; the bottom is rocky, with 
the exception of Lobato cove, where it is sand, in 27 fath- 
oms of water. 

About 6 miles NE. of Yuche-Mo are the Inchin islands. 
Near them, to the northward, are the Tenquehuen, Men- 
chuan, and Puyo islands, among which there are probably 
several good anchorages, with the fresh water, wood, wild 
herbs, fish, and everything that is found on this coast. The 
western extremity of Menchuan island is low, and a cluster 
of rocks extends off the NW. point about two miles ; it must 
therefore be given a wide berth. 

The archipelago of Ohonos and of Guaitecas consists of 
a multitude of islands, extending from the Pulluche chan-peiago 
nel on the south, which is the northern boundary of the 
peninsula of Tatayo, to the gulf of Oorcovado on the north- 
These islands, lying in groups of from twenty to fifty, are 



Port Refuge. 



The Chonos and 
Guaitecas arcbi- 



30 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO. 

of various forms and sizes, some having a circumference of 
70 miles, others of only a few yards. The largest is Santa 
Magdalena, separated by the Yates channel from the 
cordillera of the coast. It contains mountains and vol- 
canoes covered with snow, and was, until lately, supposed 
to be a portion of the cordillera. Melchor, Traiguen, and 
Rivero are among the largest of these islands ; they are 
traversed by the three principal channels, which run nearly 
east aud west ; Ninualaca channel to the north of Melchor 
island; Darwin channel to the northward of Rivero and 
Traiguen islands; and Pulluche channel, the southern 
boundary of the archipelago. These connect with the 
Moraleda channel on the eastern side of the archipelago, 
which runs nearly north and south, and, with the channels 
Errazuriz aud Costa, which are to the westward and east- 
ward of the island Traiguen, extends through the whole 
length of the archipelago. The channels mentioned, as 
also several of the minor channels, have been examined 
and partially surveyed, more recently by captain Simpson 
and officers of the Chilian navy. On the coast of Taytao, 
as also throughout the archipelago, there are numerous 
bays and coves where vessels of heavy tonnage can find 
refuge. The depth of water varies, but in general the 
water is deep well up to the land. Banks and rocks under 
water, when in a depth less than 12 to 14 feet, are, as a 
general rule, buoyed with the growth of kelp and sea- weed. 
In deeper water the strength of the current does not per- 
mit this growth. The general aspect of these islands, which 
seem to rise suddenly out of the water, is abrupt, mountain- 
ous, and rugged. To the south some resemble a sugar-loaf ; 
to the north they are in torm of plateaux or elevated table- 
lauds. They vary in height betweeu 2,000 and 4,000 feet. 
The peaks of Cuptana, 2,950 feet, are constantly covered 
with snow, and in their vicinity are mineral waters. It is 
supposed that the mouutains of these islands contain 
minerals, especially iron. Most of these islands seem to 
have the same geological formation as the cordillera, being 
of volcanic origiu. Basalt, quartz with black sand, pumice- 
stone, outcrops of lava, with caves and grottoes covered 
on the inside with many-shaped stalactites. Some of the 
westernmost islands, as Huafo, Ypun, and Huamblin, evince 



FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO OHILOE. 31 

a Neptunian origin ; they are formed of sediment, and have 
gradually risen from the bottom of the sea. Nearly all 
these islands are offshoots of the great cordillera. The 
channels and estuaries are submarine valleys, lower than 
the pampas of the east. 

The plains, which are a short distance from their shores, 
have a rich vegetation.* It is hard to penetrate the thick- 
ets, but if one succeeds in reaching the summit of one of the 
high islands, there is a splendid view of seventy or eighty 
different islands, separated by numerous channels. Nearly 
all of them have lagunes of fresh water in their interior, 
which abound with fish and are dotted with islets. 

There is no fixed population on these islands. It is sup- 
posed that they were inhabited during the, last century. 
At the end of the last ceutury, the influence of the Jesuits 
drove the Chonos Indians from the archipelago ; transport- 
ing them to Ohiloe under the pretext of conversion, they 
were allowed to die in misery. Some few escaped by the 
isthmus of d'Ofqui and went to Patagonia. 

In some localities burial-places have been found, from 
which skulls were taken which resemble those of the race of 
Payas of Ohiloe. They were more generally found in caves 
closed by branches. Some mummies, in oval cases made of 
the bark of the cypress, have also been found ; but all these 
have been removed or destroyed. 

During the spring and summer the wood-cutters visit 
these islands to cut wood and hunt the seal. They discov- 
ered in the caves, which are not reached by the high tides, 
large deposits of guano, which is now being exported. 

In 1866 three thousand laborers, placed on these islands 
to cut wood, did great harm by burning the woods, and by 
hunting the seal-calves almost to extermination. 

The aquatic animals, such as the seal, sea-cat, &c, are 
abundant; the sardine and the robalo (perca labrax) are 
also found. The seal is diminishing. The larger animals 
of this species, the sea-elephant and sea-leopard, have en- 
tirely disappeared since the beginning of this ceutury. 

The fauna of these islands is quite rich. On luchin and 
Tenquehuen are a large numoer of small goats which seem 
to be of European origin, somewhat degenerated. On Hu- 
afo there are wild dogs about U feet high, with short hair 



32 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO. 

and ears. On the opposite coast, on the continent, the 
puma, fox, guanaco, and large deer are found. The birds of 
these islands are geese, chickens, hawks, cat-birds, thrushes, 
and goldfinches. There are no reptiles or venomous animals. 
The principal value of these islands consists in their for- 
ests. The trees attain a good size, suitable for construction. 
For railroad-sleepers and spars are the alerce ; the cypress, 
which abounds on elevated localities ; the oak, which attains 
a circumference of 13 feet and the height of 50 feet; the 
maiiiu ; the tepu ; the laurel ; the teniu ; the ciruellio, which 
is suitable for cabinet purposes ; and the hazel. In 1871, 
three hundred thousand railroad-sleepers were cut from 
these forests. 

climate. rpj^ c ]i ma t e of these islands is severe, especially in the 

winter ; the changes in the temperature are very abrupt ; 
showers mixed with hail, accompanied by furious squalls, 
occur frequently, as do also heavy snow-storms, which render 
the navigation of the narrow channels dangerous. Earth- 
quakes are rare in spite of the volcanic formation of the 
islands. In the summer there are some beautiful days, and 
the sun even dries up the brooks, causing a want of fresh 
water ; but this is rare. 

It is estimated that from 156 to 192 inches of rain fall 
annually. On an average day it is rare to see the horizon 
farther than five miles, the atmosphere is so thick and sat- 
urated. The climate is not unhealthy; local diseases are 
rare, and epidemics unknown. 

Barometer and From observations made during the spring and summer 
thermometer. of 1865 _ 1866 and 1866 _ 1867? by M# y e isthow, the mean 

height of the barometer was 29.6 ; that of the thermometer 

52° 34'. The general averages for the three following 

months were : 

Barometer. Thermometer. 

December ' 29.63 52° 16' 

January 29.63 55° 22' 

February 29.00 53° 60' 

From the averages obtained at Melinka, which is in 43° 
50', it will be seen that both the barometer and thermometer 
are lower than in the corresponding northern latitudes. 

Captain Simpson verified these observations in the sum- 
mer of 1871. During the day the temperature varied 



WINDS. 33 

between 50° and 53°, and during the night between 46° and 
50°. 

During the time of these observations the minimum press- 
ure observed was, on October 7, 1865, at 6 p. m., 28.91 inches. 
The maximum pressure was observed the 14th of October, 
1865, at noon, 29.91 inches, during clear weather and a 
SW. wind. The thermometer during that period stood 
highest on January 1, 1867, when it was 64°.40 at 6 p. m., 
during a calm and clear sky, as on December 30, 1865, from 
noon to 6 p. m. during a calm and a light SW. wind, 
with clouds at the horizon. It was at its minimum, 41°.00, 
the 13th and 14th October, 1865, at 6 a. m., with generally 
clear and calm weather, with occasional hailstorms. 

By inspection of the table it will be seen that the results winds. 
obtained for this part of the coast are nearly identical with 
those for the region comprised between Chiloe and Val- 
divia. 

During the summer and spring the winds from the NE. 
and the SE. quadrant are very rare ; the winds generally 
blowing from the N., NW., W., SW., and S. The winds 
generally die out during the evening, especially those from 
the N. and S. ; the winds from the SW., on the contrary, 
freshen, or at least keep their force, in the evening. This 
confirms what was mentioned in the first chapter, namely, 
that the shifts to the SW. generally take place about 
sunset. During the mornings the IW. winds predom- 
inate. Generally speaking, the winds from the K, NW., 
W., SW., and S. are about equally divided. Calms are 
also as common during the mornings and at noon as 
any of these winds; during the evening they are aboii 1 : 
twice as frequent ; in other words, the calms occur one day 
out of six in the forenoon, one day out of seven during the 
day, and one day out of three during the evening. 

The NW. and SW. winds deposit all the evaporation of 
the Pacific ocean on the Cordillera, which causes the fre- 
quent rains. In the estuaries, as that of the Kio Aysen, it 
rains less, though 11 inches has fallen there during one 
night. The calms and the NE. or NW. winds bring the 
heaviest rains. There are only passing showers with the 
W. or SW. winds, but it invariably rains in torrents during 
SE. winds. 
3 c 



34 FR03I THE GULF OF PEXAS TO CHILOE. 

The barometer does not stand as high in this locality as 
in the latitude of Valparaiso : for instance, in all this hem- 
isphere the barometer falls before the winds from the X. 
and XW. and through their duration, and rises during the 
calms or when the wind goes to the SW. or S. In consult- 
ing the barometer, however, its height must not be taken 
iuto consideration as much as its greater or less variation 
from its original reading. 

During the voyage of the Chacabuco, in March and April. 
1870, Captain Simpson observed a minimum barometer of 
27.02 inches during a XW. gale, and a maximum of 30.4 
inches during a SE. wind with clear weather. The heaviest 
gales blow from the 2sXE. to X W., often flying in a furious 
gust to the TV., SW., and S. before the barometer rises and 
the thermometer falls. The hygrometer is also very useful. 
A great degree of saturation denotes a north wind and a 
small one south winds. Vessels at anchor must keep a good 
look-out for the shifts from XW. to SW. 

Sometimes the wind after shifting suddenly" from XW. to 
W. returns to NW., as it does more to the northward, when 
it blows with more violence than before ; in fact, there are 
two gales following close to each other. 

During the winter, the gales are accompauied by thunder- 
storms, and the traces of the passage of the lightning are 
frequent on the declivities of the mountains. 



WINDS. 



35 



O OS 

~' 
gTS 



- <n m 01 to t-h 



oai- ex t as m c; o co co (N :-: 7Z — i t ;i ~3 



-' -i '.• 



Tf ~5 T(< r-l *-» M OTjB CWJI 



g 

a 



eo c* en f^n com-* 



*mio o n n a> 



©* CJ r-t CI -H , 



H HCI 



MMM MO— < -* CO © r-tOO CI P3 ?0 I", *^ K 



c* as ro ooi'V co •"*• c*5 oh 



c» '— th fjvor.na 



,©JrH OmC© COCOC* n«H 00! 



mm i' f ?5 t) ^ n 



aga aga aga aga aga aga aga agaaga 

es' g p, csgp\ cage* csgp, d g p\ dgft csgp, cigddgp, 

COCO COCO 00 CO 00 CO to CO 00 CO «D CO 00 COCO CO 



aga 



aga 



36 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 



tions, 



General instmc- The following general instructions will be an assistance 
in the navigation of the channels of the archipelago. 

1°. Every dangerous submarine rock is marked by sea- 
weed, or is visible from aloft 5 strong currents, however, 
submerge the sea- weed. 

2°. The sea- weed, in smooth bays, commences generally in 
seven fathoms of water, where the bottom is of large rocks ; 
in three fathoms, where the bottom is of small stones or peb- 
bles; it does not grow on sandy or shell bottom, or on lee- 
ward points which are washed by a heavy sea. 

3°. In the channels transverse to the coast tbe flood-tide 
runs to the eastward, the ebb to the westward, and those 
parallel to the coast trending to the northward and south- 
ward ; the flood in general runs to the north and the ebb to 
the south. In the large channels bordering the cordillera, 
the tides increase in velocity as the cordillera is approached. 

4°. The winds generally incline to the west ; on this ac- 
count vessels should keep on that side of the channel where 
there are winds, good anchorages, and easy of exit. 

5°. It is recommended to the navigator coming from sea- 
ward to anchor or tie up as soon as possible after entering 
the channel, preferring the northern shore, and send boats to 
seek those acquainted with the channels ; these are readily 
found during the summer ; too much confidence should not, 
however, be placed in them ; they are generally unac- 
quainted with the soundings, and are only useful in indi- 
cating the channel. With experienced looksout aloft, and 
the usual precautions, there is much less risk in this naviga- 
tion than is usually supposed. To a novice in these waters 
the principal difficulty is the great depth of water surround- 
ing the anchorages; but the general correspondence be- 
tween the height of the land and the depth of the soundings 
in its vicinity will rarely deceive, especially in the bays and 
coves where the beach is seen. 
Tides. Outside this archipelago the currents are weak, inside 

Currents. ^key attain great velocity, wkick varies muck witk tke 
direction of tke wind, tke age of tke moon, and tke tidal 
hour. 

The length of the continent, at Melinka and in the open 
ports, the difference between tke extreme stages of the tide 
is at tke syzygy about 8 feet; but in the contracted parts 



PULLUCHE OU WICKHAM CHANNEL. ot 

of the channels it is often 20 feet, and has a velocity of 8 
miles per hour. According to recent observations by Cap- 
tain Simpson, the tides during the summer are stronger 
during the night thau in the day ; in winter this phenome- 
non is reversed. 

This arm of the sea, the Pulluche or Wickham channel, v ^ c ^ c h c e ha°n r 
separates the peninsula of Tatayo from the Chonos archi-nei. 
pelago, and is the southernmost entrance to the archipel- 
ago; it opens to the eastward of the bay of Anna Pink, 
between Yeuche-mo and the Skyring islands on the south, 
and the Inchin and Tenquehuen islands on the north ; it 
connects with the several channels running to the north- 
ward through the archipelago. 

The Wickham entrance is shown distinctly on the chart. 
After passing the islands Black and Bister, which leave to 
starboard, steer for Clemente island, borrow toward it and 
steer to the ESE.; on arriving to' the east of Clemente 
island be careful not to take the Williams channel, which 
runs to the ^E. and has a group of islands at its entrance; 
two miles farther on, after passing between the island of 
Guerrero and the small island of Ricardo, is the entrance 
of the Pulluche channel ; after doubling a rock, on the sum- 
mit of which are several dead trees, an anchorage will be 
found from whence pilots can be sought. Farther within 
the channel the tides run with considerable velocity ; with 
a favorable current it is desirable to keep in niidehannel. 

After passing the Dtarupa channel and the SW. point of^f^ '" 151100 
Huinos island*, the Pulluche takes the name of Chacabuco 
channel, which it keeps to the Costa channel. 

On the north shore of the Chacabuco channel, near its ^n Archy. 
intersection with the Errazuriz channel, at the SE. end of 
Huinos island, is Port Archy. The Janequeo anchored here 
with point Archy bearing K. 80° E., and Observatory Cay 
S. 75° E.; the anchorage is exposed to SW. winds, but is 
somewhat i)rotected by a line of shoals having on them 
from 1 1 to 4^ fathoms of water ; the two small islets called 
Observatory Cays are a part of these. The Janequeo was 
anchored in 11 fathoms of water, bottom sand and stone, 
about 600 yards from the shore; it is better to anchor in 
the western part of the cove in 10 fathoms, about the 
same distance from the shore, it being more sheltered. 



channel. 



38 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

Wood and water can be obtained. About 2J miles to the 
northward of point Archy, in Errazuriz channel, is a cove 
formed by Eamahuel islet and Humos island; near the land 
on the south side of the island vessels are sheltered against 
winds from N. to SSW. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Port Archy at l h 30 m ; 

rise 10 feet; velocity 2J knots; direction of the flood NE., 
ebb SW. 

Bay of san Ra- The bay of San Eamon opens after passing Errazuriz 

mon and port San ^ ° 

Miguel. channel, and is formed by the islands Rojas and Traiguen. 

The diameter of this bay is about 4 miles; it offers a good 
anchorage in all its parts. In its western corner is port 
San Miguel where vessels can ride to one anchor in 17 to 20 
fathoms of water, bottom sand. 

To the northward of the outside entrance of Pulluche 

channel, between the islands In chin and Tenqaehuen, are 

the islands Clemente, Garrido, and Isquiliac, all of which 

have steep and barren coasts about 3,000 feet in height. 

Errazuriz ciiau- rp flj e westward of the island Traiguen, aud connecting 

nel. . » 

Palluche and Darwin channels, is the Errazuriz channel. 
About a third of its length from the northward it intersects 
the Vicuna channel, which, running to the westward, com- 
municates with the Utarupa channel. At the intersection 
of these two channels is a bank of shells forming a beach. 
utarupa and Farther to the westward are successively the Utarupa 

Williams chan- 
nels, (large channel) and Williams channels, which run from 

south to north, and also connect the Pulluche and Darwin 
channels. Opposite these, on the opposite side of the 
Palluche channel, are two estuaries which run into Taytao 
to the foot of the cordillera of the coast. Care must be 
taken not to confound these estuaries with the Ortuzar 
channel, which ends opposite Errazuriz channel. 

Utarupa channel is 6 or 7 miles wide, but its eastern shore 
is so fall of islets and banks that its navigable part is 
reduced to 2 or 3 miles. The western shore is clear and 
deep. 

Williams channel is tortuous, and near its middle is but 
164 feet wide. In this strait the tide runs with great 
velocity, and, though safe and deep, it cannot be recom- 
mended for large vessels. 
Darwin bay. ^he name of Darwin bay has been given to the large 



DARWIN CHANNEL. 39 

opening between the islands Tenqnehnen and Vallenar. In 

its center is a dangerous islet, called Analao. 

Darwin or Agiiea channel enters the archipelago of AgiLa r chaiinei. or 
Chonos in latitude 45° 22' 30" S., and longitude 7JP 29' 00" 
W., between the islands Garrido and Isquiliac. It is per- 
fectly safe for the largest vessels, and it presents no serious 
difficulties. 

The Darwin channel is considered the best, not only 
because it is less tortuous than any of the others, but 
because it has good anchorages at both extremities, Vallenar 
toward the ocean, and Port Lagunas or Espanol at its east- 
ern end. It is shorter than Pelluche channel. It is im- 
possible to mistake the entrance of this channel, either 
from the ocean or from the Moraleda channel. Coming 
from seaward no great mistake can be made in its distance 
from Tres Montes, and when approaching the land the 
Vallenar islands will be distinguished, and the entrance itself 
will be clearly recognized from its wild aspect and high 
cliffs, free from rocks and islets. 

The coast trends about E. 2° X. for about 6 miles, then 
the channel inclines a little more to the northward. Here 
a white, rocky, and well-detached islet will be seen, which 
must be left to starboard, and when passed a deep branch 
of the sea, running to the north, and containing several 
islands, is opened. After passing this opening, the coast 
runs about ESE., until another island is doubled, when the 
principal channel running to the northward will be seen. 
It is about 29 miles from the entrance. On each side the 
channel is skirted with forest trees, and iu all probability 
smoke from some vessel will be discovered in this locality, 
when a pilot should be sought, if one has not been already 
obtained. Before entering Moraleda channel the Darwin 
channel contracts and joins the former about 4 miles to the 
southward of Port Lagunas, at which point it is not more 
than 1 mile wide. Some stores can be found at Port La- 
gunas. On leaviug this channel, hug the coast to port until 
it seems to incline to WSW., # theu stand to the N. or star- 
board shore until a small white island appears to be in mid- 
channel ; leave this island to port, and keep in mid-channel ; 
the swell of the ocean will soon be felt, and the open sea 
come in sight. This heavy swell is the greatest inconven- 



nel 



40 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

ience when leaving this channel, and vessels should not 
attempt to run out unless wind and tide are favorable. 

If on coming from the sea it is desirable to anchor, a good 
place will be found on the south side, about 3 miles inside 
the entrance of Williams channel ; the anchorage is in 15 
fathoms of water, near two points formed of heaps of stones, 
where the tide is little felt ; it is called port Yates. Mayne 
mentions that all the western islands of this archipelago 
are marked too far to the westward. 

pichirupa chan- Pichirupa is the only channel running from S. to N. 
which connects the Agiiea and the Mnualac channels ; it 
runs to the eastward of the island of Victoria, and joins 
Mnualac channel between the island Kent on the east and 
the island Melchor to the west. This channel is a labyrinth 
of shoals and islets. 

vaiienar road. North of Darwin bay and between Isquiliac and the Val- 
lenar islands is the road of Vaiienar; it is well marked by 
Isquiliac mountain, which is very steep, 3,200 feet high, and 
ends in three peaks ; it is an excellent anchorage, and can 
be easily entered and left. The best auchorage is in 14 
fathoms, with rocky and sandy bottom, near a small islet 
at the SE. extremity of Three Finger island. The Beagle 
took refuge here during aSW. gale. 

Tides. it is high water, full and change, at Vaiienar road at 12 k 

18 m , rise 5 feet. 

Huambiin or Huamblin or Socorro island is about 9£ miles long, and 

Socorro island. - ° 7 

is 30 miles NW. of the Vaiienar group ; it is from 400 to 
790 feet high, and comparatively flat. It is heavily wooded,, 
and its shores are generally sloping and covered with verd- 
ure ; here and there are remarkable ravines, which are in 
strong contrast with the somber color of the vegetation. 
There is anchorage under this islaud, to the eastward of it, 
in from 8 to 15 fathoms, 1J miles from the shore. It is high 
water, full and change, at 12 11 . 
Ypun or Narbo- Ypun or Narborough island resembles Huamblin island. 

rough uland. . 

and is entirely different from the neighboring islands, which 
are high, steep, and generally barren on the sea-side, while 
Huamblin and Ypun are comparatively low, flat, and fertile. 
Already valuable, these two islands will probably soon be- 
come more so from the abundance of vegetables and provi- 
sions which can be raised on them. They can both be easily 



NINUALAC CHANNEL. 41 

approached and left. The sea, which breaks constantly on 
the advanced rocky points, is a sufficient mark to avoid 
them. The peculiar aspect of Ypun and Huamblin seems 
to indicate that they are of a Neptunian origin, in opposi- 
tion to the volcanic origin of the others. 

There is a good anchorage under Ypun, in 12 to 16 fath- 
oms of water, bottom sand and clay. The harbor of Scotch- 
well, in the SE. part of the island, not only offers good 
shelter against storms, but is also a sure and convenient 
harbor for watering, repairing, or taking in wood. It has 
to be approached from the northward. The approach from 
the southward has been examined and no hidden dangers 
found, but it is very narrow, and some submarine rocks may 
have escaped notice. A great many seal are found on Ypun 
and Huamblin. 

The bight to the eastward of Huamblin, between the Adventure bay. 
islands Vallenar and Ypun, is called Adventure bay. Bor- 
dering this bay to the eastward are the islands Stokes, the 
summit of which, mount Philip, is 2,705 feet high ; Eowlett; 
Williams, 2,525 feet ; James, with Sullivan peaks, 435 feet 
in height; Kent, Dring, and Lemu. Among these islands 
there is no good or accessible anchorage. In the middle of 
this bay are the islands Paz, 1,050 feet in height, and Lie- 
bre. They are remarkable for their conical form, and offer 
no shelter. 

Ninualac channel commences in the middle of Adventure Ninuaiac chan- 
nel. 

bay. It is one of the principal ones leading into the archi- 
pelago from seaward. According to Mayne, it is 10 miles 
too far to the northward on the French and English charts. 
Its entrance, according to Simpson, is in latitude 45° 03' S. 
The channel opens between the islands James and Kent. 
James island, which is surrounded by three peaks called 
Sullivan, is the Ohirconlahuen marked on the charts of the 
Jesuits in 1766. The peaks can be seen a long distance ; 
there is a small inlet at their foot on the south side. 

To the westward of the inlet, nearer the open sea, is port Port concha. 
Concha. It is formed to the westward by a small detached 
island, and to the NW. by a contracted channel. This port 
is narrow for ships, and in its northern part there is but 
little water ; it terminates in a beach of white sand and low, 
swampy country. The tide is very strong around the island. 



42 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

After leaving port Concha there is no anchorage for a 
considerable distance on the worth coast of the Ninualac 
channel ; but vessels can, according to the pilots, anchor 
on the side of Kent island, in a small estuary at the entrance 
of the Pichirupa channel. Six miles from the entrance of 
Ninualac channel is an island which divides it into two 
equal parts. It stops the sea, but increases the current on 
either side. The island is clean, there being over 50 fath- 
oms of water within 250 yards of it. The same is the case 
near the land on the sides of the channel. The island must 
not be approached nearer, however, as a shoal surrounds it 
which is covered by only 2 to 3 fathoms of water. Opposite 
this, on the north side of the channel, is a spacious bay, in 
which the water is too deep for anchorage. Boats only can 
land on the small inlets. 
^Estuary of cis- Half-way between the ocean and Moraleda channel, out- 
side of a small inlet called Gatos, is the first anchorage on 
the north coast of Ninualac channel. Three miles before 
reaching this, opposite a white spot on the north coast, 
there is a rock in the center of the channel which is only 
covered during very high tides. There is very little sea- 
weed on it; vessels can pass safely within 250 yards of it; 
at that distance there are 12 fathoms of water. 

One-half mile to the eastward of Gatos inlet is Oisnes 
estuary. This is a good anchorage, in 12 to 15 fathoms of 
water, on the KW. side of its entrance, about 250 yards 
from the land, but it is not well to get too near the visible 
reef. On entering this estuary, which is five miles long, 
hug the eastern point where there is 8 or 9 fathoms of 
water, which depth continues to its end; near the reef the 
depth is much less. A great many vessels could winter in 
this estuary. 
Guaitecas is- Thegroup of island s between the Ypun and the Guaitecas 
does not offer any easily accessible anchorage, though many 
coves for small vessels can undoubtedly be found. 

On Midhurst, the southernmost of the Guaitecas, there 
is a peak 2,079 feet high. There is another of the same 
height on Chaiffers island, called Mount Mayne ; it is on the 
eastern side and 8 miles from the peak of Midhurst. The 
four islands to the northward of Midhurst are high and 
from 4 to 7 miles long, at nearly equal distances apart, and 



GU AIT EC AS ISLANDS. 



43 



remarkably parallel to each other in an east and west di- 
rection. 

The northern and most important of the Guaitecas islands 
is Guaiteca Grande; its elevation above the sea-level is 
1,900 feet ; it contains Port Low, one of the best harbors 
on the coast, capable of containing a number of large ves- 
sels. It is situated on the north coast east of the island of 
Huacanec. 

Coming from the westward the Guaitec is islands appear 
like a chain of hills. At their NE. extremity is seen a re- 
markably-formed island, the summit of which is shaped like 
a table, its SW. part sloping and terminating in the lo,w 
land ; this is Guaiteca Grande. At a distance of 20 miles 
this table and chain of hills is visible, the chain of hills ap- 
pearing to be in the middle of the group of islands. On the 
left facing to the SE. a high mountain with but one peak, 
which appears entirely isolated, will be seen. Farther to the 
left is the table already mentioned beyond which there ap- 
pears an opening, the low land on the west resembling sev- 
eral small islands. 

On approaching Port Low it is necessary to give a wide 
berth to several rocks on the N. and XVV. coast of Guaiteca : 
and account must be taken of the tide, which is felt beyond 
Huacanec and which produces eddies outside of point 
Chayalime. When approaching from the SW. the rocks 
most to seaward are N. 31° E. about 2 miles from point 
Patgui. On these the sea always breaks. In order not to 
be drifted too close to these rocks it is well to keep to the 
northward of an east and west line drawn from the islets, 
to the north of Huacanec. When the east point of Hua- 
canec bears south Port Low can be entered. Besides its 
outer roadstead Port Low has another inside harbor formed 
by Guaiteca Grande and Huacanec island ; it is very secure 
and has 9 fathoms of water, sandy and muddy bottom. 

The ordinary provisions can be found at Port Low ; also, 
excellent water, wood, shell fish, (including oysters,) and 
wild herbs. The otter and sea-calf hunters from Chiloe' 
planted potatoes here during the last few years ; a few of 
these can be procured. 

It is high water, full and change, at Port Low at 12 b . 40 m . ? 
with an average rise of 8 feet. 



Port Low. 



Directions. 



u 



FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 



Melinka. 



Tides. 



Morale da chan 
nel. 



Melinka, also called Puerto Arena by the fishermen, was 
created for convenience in cutting the wood of the archi- 
pelago, in hunting the sea-calf, and for storing the guano. 
It is in latitude 43° 53' S., and longitude 73° 47' 03" W. 
The entrance is between Guaiteca Grande and the round 
island Canelo ; the course is nearly SS W r . until some houses 
in the north of the bay are opened, when steer directly for 
them, anchoring in from 6 to 15 fathoms of water, pebble 
bottom, with the point of Guaiteca bearing E. by K. This 
harbor is entirely sheltered, and appears to be perfectly 
safe. In a cove there are traces of numerous Indian habi- 
tations. Captain Simpson gives the following description 
of Melinka. Melinka is a spacious harbor, open on the east 
to the Huafo channel ; it is exposed to the NNE. wind, 
which often blows with great violence; the anchorage is 
also subject to strong eddies, produced by the currents; the 
western portion is sheltered against the prevailing winds, 
but the bottom is rocky, and it is also agitated by strong 
currents, it being the continuation of the channel opening 
into the Pacific. The anchorage in the small cove, formed 
by a visible reef and the point, is really good, with excel- 
lent holding-ground of sand in 8 to 12 fathoms of water; it 
is, however, narrow. The northern entrance to this port 
has no hidden dangers, and vessels can pass within 27 
yards of both sides of Westoff island ; the smallest of the 
entrances is preferable when the wind permits ; it is quite 
clear, and has no less than 9 fathoms in midchannel; S. 
47° W. leads directly from Queytao island to Port Melinka. 
Canelo island can be passed on both sides, and in a calm or 
fog vessels can anchor in 18 to 25 fathoms within J mile to 
the north of Westoff island. 

It is high water, full and change, at Melinka at 12 h 
45 m , rise 7 feet ; the flood and ebb set in and out to the 
westward. 

The Moraleda channel trends X. by E. and S. by W., and 
separates the Chonos archipelago from the continent ; the 
depths in this channel vary between 75 and 175 fathoms 
from its northern limit to the point where the channel is 
narrowed by the islands fronting the Playas Largas, ten 
miles to the northward of Port Lagunas, the bottom being 



MORALEDA CHANNEL. 45 

tmul and dark marl, with vestiges of shells. To the south- 
ward of this point, toward the islands of Traiguen, across 
the narrows between Lagunas and the entrance to the estu- 
ary of Aysen, the depths decrease suddeuly to 38 fathoms, 
mud and sand. This is the principal channel for vessels 
going S. for wood ; its breadth is 5 to G miles. Following 
it to the southward, the auchorages are — 

On leaving Melinka to enter the Moraleda channel, Locos port Baii< 
island, which is the northeastern most point of the archi- 
pelago, is left to the westward. The first anchorage is Port 
Ballena, in latitude 44° 16' S., longitude 73° 33 / W. It is 
situated opposite to the volcano of Melimoyo and to Refu- 
gio or Huatimo island. This port, on the island Muilchey, 
is an excellent harbor, sheltered from all winds, and the sea 
never rises in it. Its entrance is free from danger, all the 
rocks being visible: the shore can be passed within 100 
yards. Oysters are found here. 

To the S. and E. of Port Ballena, the Quinchei group are Quinchei islands, 
the most prominent. The southeasternmostand most salient, 
Gorro island, is very remarkable, having the shape of a cap, 
from which its name. N. 45° E. from this island, about 3 
miles distant, is Chacabuco rock, which is about 264 feet X. 
and S. and about 132 feet E. and W.; and in a spot of about 
24 feet diameter there is but 3 feet of water at one-third tide. 
On the borders of the rock the soundings are from 2 to 3 
fathoms, which increase to a depth of 25 and 30 fathoms at 
a distance of 125 feet. At low water the rocky bed is vis- 
ible, and it most always breaks. There is but little sea-weed 
upon it. To clear it, pass J mile to the E. of el Gorro del 
Quinchei. 

The fishermen bound from Malinka to the Moraleda 
channel pass inside of these islands, as it is shorter. About 
4 miles southeasterly from Chacabuco rock are two high 
rocks, the one black the other white. 

On the western shore, under the southeast point of Fran- Port xtssau. 
cisco island, protected to the southward and to the west- 
ward by small islands, is Port Nassau, with a depth of 19 to 
31 fathoms on a sandy bottom. The bottom of the western 
portion of the anchorage is rock. Having passed the Quin- 
chei islands, the mouth of the channel running to the NW. 
is seen. This is the one before mentioned as used by the 



46 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

fishermen, leading to Melinka. The pilots say that it is free 
from hidden dangers 5 but it is too narrow for large vessels. 

Tuh°uenahienec pr Passing this entrance and the points before mentioned, 
where the Moraleda channel narrows, and opposite to point 
Calqueman, the western extremity of Magdalena island, is 
the small island of Letreros, which is low, and projects in 
front of one much larger and higher. To the westward of 
these is a large island with a mountain 2,766 feet in height, 
the only one on whose summit the snow lies during the 
summer — from which its name, Cerro Nevado. To the 
northward of Letreros island is the anchorage of Letreros, 
to the southward of it Port Cuptana. 
port cuptana. j n c i eaT weather, before arriving at these anchorages, a 
quadrilateral of rocks projecting to the eastward, called el 
Enjambre, will be seen. Some are barren, the others sur- 
mounted by trees. When abreast of them, the remarkable 
mountain of Tangbac, or Americano, will be in sight. This 
marks the southern^oart of the Mnualec channel. 

By keeping J mile to the eastward of Enjambre there is 
no known danger. Passing outside of Oayo Blanco and the 
group of islets extending from it to the southward and west- 
port Frances, ward, port Frances, or Espineira, lies west, the best anchor- 
age being as near as the soundings will admit to Transito 
island. A good anchorage is about J mile from the island, 
in about 15 fathoms ; bottom mud ; outside the small island, 
which here protects the anchorage to the northward. Inside 
the entrance, and a little to the southward of midchannel, 
is Janequeo rock, usually submerged. It lies about J mile 
from the northeast point of the island, which forms the 
southern protection of the anchorage. By keeping well over 
to the northern side, near the islet, the rock is avoided. 
Port Frances is in latitude 44° 46' 35" S., longitude 73° 39' W. 
From its entrance, the extinct volcano of Motalat, 5,445 feet 
high, bears ENE. It is high water, full and change, at port 
Frances at 2 h 30 m ; rise, 9 feet. 

^ Ninuaiaca chan- Seven miles to the southward of the entrance to port 
Frances is the eastern entrance to Mnualaca channel ; in 
the southern part of the mouth of this channel is a sub- 
merged rock bearing N. 20° E. from the small island Pajel 
and N. 38° E. from Silachilu islet ; there are 3 feet of water 
in it at low water, it is flat and marked by very little sea- 



NINUALACA CHANNEL. 47 

weed. The eastern part of the Ninualaca channel is full of 
submerged rocks. 

To the southward of the entrance to Ninualaca channel, r American?"' 
with its opening on the southern end of the island of Tang- 
bac^is port Tangbac or Americano, in latitude 45° 2' S., 
longitude 73° 43' W.; it takes its name from mount Tangbac, 
at whose foot it is ; this mountain is 1,968 feet high and re- 
markable in appearance. Passing to the southward of the 
islets off the southeastern point of the island, large vessels 
should anchor at the foot of the cerro Americano in from 15 
to 19 fathoms of water, bottom sand; on the opposite side 
of the channel the bottom is rock. There is anchorage here 
for but two or three vessels, as the bank is very steep. 
Farther in there is a well-protected basin, called La Darsena, 
with from 6 to 8 fathoms of water, but across its entrance 
there is but 15 feet. There are some apple-trees here, and 
fish and shell-fish are abundant. The establishment of the 
port is 2 h 40 ra ; the rise and fall of the tide 10 feet. 

Opposite to the eastern entrance to the Ninualaca channel, ap?channe?. yugu " 
on the eastern shore of the Moraleda channel, is the mouth 
of the Puyuguapi channel, which runs to the eastward and 
then to the northward, making the circuit of Magdalena isl- 
and, the largest of this archipelago, which it separates from 
the cordillera of the main-land ; to the NE. of the island it 
turns to the westward, taking the name of the Jacaf chan- 
nel, and opens again into the Moraleda channel opposite to 
the Quinchel islands. 

On the eastern side of the Moraleda channel there are no 
known anchorages for large vessels between the island 
Kefujio and Aysen estuary, although there are several 
small coves and sand-beaches. Besides which, on all the 
exterior of this coast the prevailing winds blow on shore. 

Fourteen miles to the south of Tangbac, on the west side Port Lagunas. 
of the Moraleda channel and under the island San Melchor, 
one of the largest of this archipelago, is port Lagunas, in 
latitude 45° 19' 8., longitude 73° 43' W., one mile to the 
north of an island, named on some charts Barba ; as it is 
not inclosed by high mountains to the NW., the heavy 
squalls which are generally felt in the estuaries of the cor- 
dillera, and always at the foot of high mountains, are not 
experienced here. It is surrounded by land to the SB., and 



48 FROM THE GULP OF PENAS TO OHILOE. 

the easterly winds, which never amount to a gale, are the 
only ones which can enter it. The anchorage is in 14 fath- 
oms, sand and shell ; farther in, within 100 yards of the 
mouth of a small brook, the water shoals rapidly to 6 feet, 
the surrouuding country is low, and seems to be favorable 
for cultivation, though most of it is covered by impenetra- 
ble thickets. Besides the island of Barba, there are some 
islets to the southward of the harbor. There is a small 
settlement for wood-cutters. The rise and fall of the tide 
is 6.8 feet. 
^Estuary of Ay- p rt Lagunas is situated in face of a great opening into 
the Cordillera, called the estuary of Aysen. Here the 
Moraleda channel ends and splits into several branches, of 
which Darwin channel to the §W., and San Rafael or Costa 
to the S. are the principal ones. The entrance to the estu- 
ary of Aysen is full of small wooded and mountainous 
islands, of which Ohaculay, Ohurreciie, and Meninea are 
the largest. After 'passing Lagunas the opening of the 
estuary will be seen to the southward of Ohurreciie 
island. It is full of islets, 4 miles wide, and is 27 fath- 
oms deep. The channel running NB. contracts be- 
tween Golorada island and the continent. The estuary is 
free of islands, and has a width of 3 miles as far as Port 
Perez, which is in latitude 45° 15' S., and 73° 22' W. It 
lies in the NW. angle of a spacious bay comprised between 
the northern part of the estuary Aysen and the five islets 
called las Cinco Hermanas ; the anchorage is in from 20 to 
30 fathoms, sandy bottom; vessels should moor upon indi- 
cations of bad weather, as the anchorage is exposed to 
strong winds though protected from the sea. 

To the northward, in the middle of a plain covered by 
vegetation, is a small volcano which was in eruption about 
twenty years since. Seven miles NE. by E. is mount Maca, 
9,700 feet high, of conical shape, its summit covered by per- 
petual snow. The bay is bounded on the west by high 
peaked mountains, and on the east by a higher chain cov- 
ered with snow. At the foot of the latter are hot springs, 
called el Bano, with a temperature of 187°. 

Opposite the island Oolorada, on the southern side of the 
estuary, is a narrow bay 3 miles long, with 8 to 13 fathoms 
of water ; it is entered by a cut in the mountain between a 



AYSEN ESTUARY. 49 

low, dangerous point and a mountain 2,700 feet high. On 
the same coast, opposite Port Perez, is the estuary Manco. 

From the ensenada de Bafio the estuary runs SE., with tuary a of°Aygen? fl 
an average breadth of 2 to 3 miles ; its shores are sur- 
rounded by mountains covered with perpetual snow and 
furrowed by deep ravines ; 8 miles from el Bafio, behind a 
small point, is a good anchorage in 25 fathoms, J mile from 
the shore, which is covered by heavy forest ; the two points 
which form this indentation are not very clean. In the 
middle of the chanuel the water is very deep, varying from 
75 to 95 fathoms. 

On the SW. side, 15 miles from Port Perez, is a small, 
crooked point, forming a small cove on either side ; to the 
west of it are 10 fathoms, to the east from 19 to 24 ; the 
shores are wooded. At this point the estuary enlarges, 
running to the eastward ; 4 miles from this it forms a fun- 
nel, running to the NE. for 4 miles, leaving Carmen island 
to the south and Barelda to the north. The passage to the 
southward of Carmen is J mile wide, and has 70 fathoms of 
water. On the side of the continent is a small peninsula, 
behind which is situated port Chacabuco ; this harbor is 1 bu * o ° r f chacha- 
mile wide, and is perfectly sheltered ; the anchoring-ground 
is about J mile from its end, in 18 to 25 fathoms, bot- 
tom mud. It is necessary to moor, as furious gusts sweep 
down through the mountain gorges, throwing the spray to 
a height of 12 or 15 feet. Two miles farther to the XE. is 
another cove, but it has not sufficient water for large ves- 
sels. 

To the northward of Barelda island the water shoals moAyaen. 
rapidly from 35 to 3 J fathoms; a short mile from this bar 
is the mouth of the river Aysen proper, having but 11 feet 
at low tide. This river runs between mountains of less 
elevation than those around the estuary. The river has 3i 
fathoms of water to within 3 miles of its mouth j at this 
l>oint is the partially obstructed confluence of the two 
branches of the river; the northern one is again divided 
into several branches, of which one is the outlet of a deep 
lake situated about 3 miles from the confluence. The prin- 
cipal branch is the eastern, which is about 200 feet wide ; 
about 4 miles from the junction are rapids where the cur- 
rent runs teu knots. After that it becomes again naviga- 
4 c 



50 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

l)le, and 1 mile from the rapids it divides again into two 
parts ; the southern branch is called the Eio Blanco, the 
northern or principal one runs for 15 miles between mount- 
ains and forest ; it then becomes a mountain torrent, the 
water of which is blackened by a mixture of snow and 
water, and its bed is obstructed by fallen trees. 

By following it for 55 miles, captain Simpson, in 1871 and 
1872, reached Patagonia. The pass is in 45° 25' S. latitude. 
The surrounding country is entirely wild. In some places 
the soil is very deep. The river is difficult to navigate, the 
currents, the sudden rises, and the debris of all kinds from 
these virgin forests arrest the smallest boat at every moment. 
At its source, 45° 20' S. and 72° 20' W., the mountains are 
high without attaining the prodigious height of those to 
the north ; but the Andes at this point are very difficult to 
cross. 

The mean height of this section of the Cordillera is 
4,840 feet; the perpetual snow commences at 5,246 feet, 
excepting in sheltered places, where it is found much lower. 
At the mouth of the estuary of Ay sen is the junction of 
the channels of Moraleda from the north, of Darwin from 
the southwest, and of San Bafael or Costa from the south, 
besides of many unimportant estuaries. 

Traiguenisiani following the channel of San Eafael, Traiguen island is 
situated between Pulluche and Darwin channel, and forms 
the western side of the channel of Costa $ it is one of the 
largest of the archipelago. 

Costa channel. Costa channel is the northern part of the San Eafael 
channel. It was named by Captain Hudson, of the Jane- 
queo. It runs between the continent and Traiguen island, 
is about 30 miles long by 1£ miles wide, and leads from the 
Pulluche channel to Port Lagunas. It is deep and without 
danger as far as the island Eaimapu, near Pulluche channel ; 
there the best channel runs between this island and the 
islet facing the northwest point of the estuary Quetralco, 
as the other between Eaimapu and the more western islands 
is tilled with dangerous shoals. 
RiSmapu! nce ° f Eaimapu lies just north of the confluence of four branches 
of the sea; to the north the one just mentioned; to the 
south the estuary of Elefantes, or San Eafael continuation 
of the Costa channel, leading to the lagoon of San Eafael : 



ESTUARY OF ELEFANTES. 51 

to the eastward the estuary of Quetralco, which cuts into 
the continent ; and to the westward the Palluche channel, 
leading to the open sea. When it blows fresh this point is 
dangerous, as the ebb coming from three estuaries rushes 
toward the Palluche channel, occasioning violent currents 
and a rough sea. 

The estuary Elefantes, the continuation of the San Ea- Estuary Eiefen- 
fael channel, extends from the confluence, 40 miles to the ei 
southward of the estuary Quetralco. 

On the eastern shore of the estuary Elefantes, about 2 mo de ios Hue- 
miles south of Quetralco, is the mouth of the river los Hu- m ' 
emules ; its source is in the Cordillera of Patagonia. Dur- 
ing 1871 and '72 it was explored carefully; large herds of 
deer having been seen on its banks, it was hoped that by 
tracking them the pass by which they crossed the Andes 
might be found. 

In 1872 captain Simpson arrived at a pass in the Cordil- 
lera in latitude 46° 06' S. This river empties by two months 
and forms two branches, which unite about 3 miles above ; 
at the fork it is about 2,000 feet wide; it is subject to formi- 
dable rises. One branch descends from an immense glacier 
13,210 feet high, which is about 20 miles in the interior ; it 
extends down the Cordillera on an inclined plane, 4 or 5 
miles long by 1 mile wide. The waters of this river are 
very turbulent and very shoal. 

Eight miles to the southward of the confluence of Eaima- , T Road of lo » 

° Mogotes. 

pu, on the side of Simpson island, or the west side of the 
channel, is the road of los Mogotes. It is formed to the 
southward by some small islands of rock, low, and crowned 
by trees and resembling champagne corks. The anchorage 
is 100 yards from the beach in 7J fathoms, fine sandy bot- 
tom. To the southward of it the channel contracts from 3 
miles width to 1 mile, between point Pescadores and Simp- 
son island. At this point there are 10 fathoms of water. 
After passing it the middle of the channel must be taken 
again. The channel averages about 1J miles wide its entire 
length. 

Going south the entrances of the channels Liucura and 
Tuahuencayec are left to the right. The aspect of the 
channel is the same as farther north. On the east side the 
Cordillera, abrupt and covered with snow, rises from the 



52 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

level of the sea; on the west side the hills are not so high, 
but the ravines are as deep and are covered by an almost 
impenetrable vegetation. 

The chart and directions do not show any danger in the 
middle of the estuary of Elefantes, excepting an uncovered 
shoal just before reaching the entrance of the lagoon. 

Quesahuen point is about 40 miles from the confluence ; 
it is on the continent, on the east side of the channel, and 
at the entrance to the lagoon Elefantes. 
Eief antes la- The termination of the San Eafael channel is Elefantes 
lagoon, which is a vast swamp covered by from 6 to 12 feet of 
water. The entrance is partially closed by a chain of small 
islands, and is divided by a tongue of sand, which is nearly 
level with the water. Vessels crossing the lagoon are 
obliged to double the island to the northward. All the 
southern side of this lagoon is inundated low land, of which 
the borders are submerged even at low tide, and axe ob- 
structed by dead oak trees. According to the oldest pilots 
and from the analysis of the decomposed woods, this land 
was sunk during the earthquake which took place in 1837. 
The tide rises and falls about 12 feet. This lagoon was some 
fifty years since frequented by species of seals, called the 
sea-elephant and sea-leopard, which gave about seven times 
as much oil as the ordinary species. They have been exter- 
minated by the hunters. 

Pieces of ice have been found floating in Elefantes lagoon, 
in and it was discovered that they were from an immense gla- 
cier, visible from the lagoon, and were brought by a river 
which empties into its SW. corner. This river, named de 
los Tempanos, can easily be entered with the flood-tide; it 
is about 330 feet wide and 7 fathoms deep; in the summer 
it is almost obstructed by floating ice; its banks are, at first, 
low and swampy, but afterward high. This river is the out- 
let of a large lagoon, whose southern extremity is, accord- 
ing to Simpson, in 4G° 39' S. This would be the northern 
portion of the isthmus of Ofqui, which unites the peninsula 
of Taytao with the continent and separates the gulf of 
Penas from San Rafael channel. 

One mile farther south the Cordillera opens, and a cata- 
ract is heard whose waters descend toward the gulf of Penas. 
This is probably the San Tadeo, or one of its tributaries. 



Los Tempanos 
ver and i 
Rafael lagoon 



SAX RAFAEL LA GO OX. ~>3 

This second lagoon, the San Rafael of the missionaries, is 
nearly circular, and has a diameter of 8 or 9 miles. The 
great glacier of San Eafael projects into it. The latter ex- 
tends from an immense sea of ice, situated in the Cordillera, 
which, running from X. to S., at a height of 3,000 feet, covers 
a large extent of the mountain-chain of the sea-coast. The 
glacier descends by a gorge more than 3,300 feet wide, and 
runs over 4J miles into the lagoon, and at its extremity it is 
still more than 4 miles broad. It forms a kind of trapezium 
of 6h miles of horizontal height; its perimeter is formed by 
precipices 328 feet high, and its surface is a chaos of peaks 
and crevices. Large blocks of ice, which detach themselves 
from it every moment, are found in the lagoon. The noise 
of the fall of these avalanches is heard in the lagoon Ele- 
fantes. 

One mile to the northward of this glacier there was no 
bottom at 58 fathoms. The glacier therefore reaches to that 
depth ; it is probable that it is the cause of the close of the 
passage to the gulf of Peiias, which formerly existed. 

About 10 miles to the southward is another glacier, which 
originates in the same bed of the Cordillera as the former. 
These glaciers are the most distant from the pole of any 
that have been found at the level of the sea. 

Returning to the estuary Elefautes, about o miles to the Estuary san 
XNE. of point Quesahuen, is the entrance to the estuary^ 1 
San Francisco ; 6 miles from its entrance is Esploradores 
bay, into which empties a deep river. 

The first channel to the west, after leaving Elefautes la- Tuahuencayec 

7 ° channel. 

goon, is the Tuahuencayec channel. It connects the Ele- 
fantes with the Barro or Aau estuary. On entering the 
Barro channel, two branches are formed by the island San 
Jose, and another smaller island to the westward of it. This 
channel runs between the peninsula of Sisquelan to the south 
and Xalcayec island to the north. To the northward of the 
former channel, and 6 miles to the southward of point Pes- 
cadores, is the entrance to Liucura channel, also connecting Liucuia canal. 
Elefantes and Barro estuaries, and running between Xalca- 
yec and Simpson islands; its western entrance is narrow. 
The Barro estuary extends from the Chacabuco channel, Barro or Aau 

v 7 estuary. 

on the north, with which it connects by the narrow channel 
of Renjifo, to the southeastern entrance of the Tuahuenca- 



54 FROM THE GULF OF PENAS TO CHILOE. 

yec channel, where, taking a WSW. direction, it is named 
Puelma estuary. Two miles from the western point of the 
channel Tuatmencayee, on the south side of Puelma estuary, 
tu T r horapson es ' is the Thompson estuary ; it runs to the southward and con- 
nects with the estuary Chasco by a narrow channel, in which 
there is from 8 to 16 fathoms of water. In Thompson estu- 

port Tapper, ary are two coves, one to the westward, called Port Tupper, 
in which the anchorage is not good ; the other opening, to 

port Barceio. the southward, is Port Barceio, which is frequented by wood- 
cutters. 

pueima estuary, xhe Puelma estuary runs to the WSW. about 24 miles, 
and ends in a shallow basin, filled with rocks and shoals. 
This basin is at the foot of Dark hill, the western slope of 
which reaches to the gulf of St. Estevan. This end of 
the sound is surrounded by low land, interspersed with la- 
goons, which are overlooked by elevated peaks covered 
with snow. The mountains are of quartz and basalt, of 
easy access, and wooded to a great height; their soil is 
different from that of the Cordillera. 

In Puelma estuary is an anchorage of the same name, 
where vessels can anchor in 7J fathoms, bottom sand and 
rock. This port, which is situated on the north bank of the 
estero, is remarkable for a point of sand, which runs to the 
eastward, and for its position at the foot of mount Fonck, 
which is 2,600 to 2,950 feet high, is the most barren place of 
the neighborhood, and ends in a double peak. Behind it 
are other higher mountains, covered with snow. From the 
top of these a large lagoon may be seen, which is only sepa- 
rated from Puelma by a small line of hills, about 2 miles 
across ; this lagoon contains fresh water and discharges into 
Puelma channel. To the north of Puelma estuary there are 
several estuaries running into the peninsula of Tatayo from 
the western shore of the Barro estuary; from the south 
they are Albano, Yidal, Silva, and Yerdugo. The channel 
to the southward of Fitz-Roy island, between the Barro and 
Vidal estuaries, is called Esperanza channel ; to the north- 
ward of this and east of Fitz-Roy island, these waters con- 
nect, through the Alejandro channel, with the Ohacabuco 
channel by la Carrera del Diablo. 

All these estuaries and channels are at the foot of high 
mountains, of a slate or granite formation ; the former are 
covered with oak, the latter with cypress. 



CHAPTEK III. 



CHILOE A^D ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



Chile e. 



Variation from 20° 35' to 19° 04' easterly, in 1876, increasing aunually about 1 30 . 

The island Huafo is situated about 20 miles WNW. of Huafo isIand - 
Guaiteca Grande, and about the same distance to the SW. 
of Ghiloe. It has no harbor, excepting for small craft. The 
highest part of the island is the northwest point, the 
weather point, which rises about 800 feet above the sea ; 
reefs run out from it to northward and westward for about 
3h miles. This island is formed of hard clay, which can be 
cut with a knife, like chocolate ; its center is low, but the 
ground rises again to the SE. ; it is thickly wooded, and, 
while the natives were living in peace, sheep could be pro- 
cured. Small and Sheep coves offer two landing points on 
the east coast. 

The island of Ghiloe is large and fertile, and has not the 
wild and desolate aspect of the other islands along the west 
coast of Patagonia; the characteristic of the island is lower, 
its contour more rounded, and its extended forests are of 
the thickest vegetation. The opposite coast of the conti- 
nent, the Gordillera, is as rugged as that farther south ; it- 
is more elevated and more thickly wooded. On Chiloe 
there is no land more elevated than 2,600 feet, and the aver- 
age elevation is about 500 feet ; the small island San Pedro 
excepted, which has an elevation of 3,200 feet. 

The island Chiloe, with its archipelago comprising some 
small islands situated in the gulf which separates it from 
the continent, is bounded on the S. and SE. by the gulf of 
Corcovado, on the NE. by the gulf of Ancud, and on the 
y. by the narrow channel called the strait of Chacao. 
Chiloe is 100 miles long from X. to S. ; its greatest breadth 
being 38 miles at the Mamelles de Matalqui ; near its center 
a deep indentation reduces its breadth to 14 miles. The 
whole island is a mass of rock, covered bv earth clothed 



with forests, which furnish excellent, timber, 



large 



quan- 



oG CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

titles of which are exported. Some lignite is found on the 
island, but not in large enough quantities to work. The 
population of Chiloe and the neighboring islands, including 
the Chonos archipelago, which belougs to the province of 
Chiloe, is about 65,000, some 5,000 of whom are occupied in 
fishing and coasting. 

There are numerous good ports on the many small islands 

between Chiloe and the continent, and along the east coast 

of the island itself. Small quantities of provisions can be 

obtained, principally potatoes. 

island and port The island San Pedro, which is separated from the south- 

oi San Pedro. " ^ 

east extremity of Ohiloe by a narrow channel, resembles 
from a distance a mountain composed of rounded masses. 
On approaching, it is seen to be wooded to the summit, 
though its height is 3,200 feet. The northern part of the 
channel separating the island of San Pedro from Chiloe is 
called the San Pedro passage, or Port San Pedro ; that to 
the south the Huamlad passage. Port San Pedro is a long, 
narrow, but safe anchorage; it can be recognized by a 
white rock near the northeast point of the entrance. If the 
tide be low on entering or leaving, care must be taken to 
avoid a bank with 3 fathoms of water, which runs from the 
south shore two-thirds across the entrance. A promontory 
on the north shore of the anchorage, in line with the next 
point to the westward of it, bearing K. 81° W., leads 
between White rock and the shoal extending from the south 
side. The best anchorage is off a sandy head on the north 
shore, about 1 mile inside White rock, in from 7 to 10 
fathoms, sand. 

To the eastward of Huamlad passage, and to the south- 
ward of San Pedro island, are some clusters of rocks run- 
ning out about 2 miles to the SSE., named the Huamblin 
rocks. 

canoitad rocks. The southern coast of Chiloe must be given a wide berth ; 
it is filled with rocks and shoals, extending in places 8 
miles off shore. The Canoitad rocks lie south, a little 
easterly of poiut Cogome; they are 43 feet high, and lie 4J 
miles off shore. As the tide stream sets toward them they 
are dangerous in calms and at night. There is a deep 

caduhuapi channel 1 mile'wide between them and the Caduhuapi rocks. 
These rocks are to the southward of point Olleta, and 



CAPE QUILAN. 



57 



extend from the coast about 3J miles. 



be seen breaking on these rocks at a distance of about 7 



Quilan i>land. 



Cape Quilan. 



The sea can generally 
or 
S miles. 

Off the southeastern point of Chiloe is Quilan island, 
which is 4J miles long, and has a long hill at either end. 
The roadstead to the eastward of the island is unsafe. The 
south coast of Chiloe, being, as before mentioned, full of 
rocks, must be avoided and passed at distances varying 
from 4 to 8 miles. There are many submarine rocks around 
the island Yemcouma, and to the eastward of the southern 
extremity of Quilan, extending 6 miles from Chiloe, the sea 
breaks over them with great violence. San Pedro and 
Quilan islands are not inhabited. 

The southwest point of Chilo£, cape Quilan, is wooded. 
In its vicinity are cliffs of a light-yellowish color, about 
300 feet high. Although there are many trees, the adjoining- 
land is less wooded than the eastern and more sheltered 
parts of the island. The profile of the land is rounded, 
without rapid descents, and lies very often horizontal; it is 
an undulating country formed of hills and valleys. The 
cliffs at the edge of the sea are irregular, and do not extend 
very far. From cape Quilan to cape Pirulil, 35 miles to the 
northward, the coast maintains the same aspect. Between 
these there is no anchorage of any kind ; there is hardly a 
place sufficiently sheltered for landing a whale-boat. 

Five miles to the northward of cape Pirulil, bordered by cucao bay. 
a low beach which is constantly swept by a heavy surf, is 
Cucao bay. The mountains of Cucao, from 2,000 to 3,000 
feet high, are at the same time the highest and most level 
parts of the island : they are wooded to the summit. 

Cape Matalqui is also a remarkable point, 34 miles from cape Martaiqui. 
cape Pirulil. The heights which surmount it reach an 
elevation of 2,000 feet. Seen from the sea they present three 
summits ; they are called the Mamelles of Matalqui ; they 
are conical, can be easily recognized, and are an excellent 
landmark when approaching Chiloe from the SW. To the 
XNE. of cape Matalqui are the Matalqui rocks, extending 
about 1 mile off shore. 

There are no outlying dangers along this coast to the 
northward of cape Quilan ; 5 or 6 miles from the laud the 
water is everywhere deep. 



58 



CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



Tides. 



Cocotue bay, 



Peninsuli 
Lacuy. 



Huapaeho shoal 



It is high water, full and change, off cape Matalqui at 12 h ; 
rise 6 feet. Between capes Matalqui and Cocotue is the in- 
let of Chepu, behind which low land alone is visible; this 
causes the heights of Cocotue and the mamelles of Matalqui 
to appear as islands from seaward. 

The heights which end in cape Cocotue do not attain a 
greater elevation than 1,000 feet ; they give the name to a 
bay to the northward, between them and the peninsula of 
Lacuy. This bay is dangerous and always exposed to the 
prevailing winds ; in its center are two groups of islands 
and sunken rocks, while its shores north and south are 
rugged and full of visible and hidden dangers. 

The east coast of the bay is low, foul, and sandy, and 
backed by low hills, at the foot of which are swamps and 
small lagoons. It offers no shelter to vessels j though at 
certain seasons of the year, during calms, some of the 
small coves to the north and south can be used by fishing- 
boats. 

The swell from NW. causes a slight current which sets 
toward the shore, and which might become dangerous to 
vessels near the shore during calms or in light winds. 
of Joined to the main island by a low isthmus is the penin- 
sula of Lacuy, surmounted by mount Centinela, about 300 
feet high. This isthmus is the western limit of the inner 
harbor of Ancud. Cape Caucahuapi is the western extrem- 
ity of the peninsula ; in its vicinity are no outlying or hid- 
den dangers. Capes Caucahuapi^ Guabun, and Huachucu- 
cuy are promontories with bold steep cliffs ; the latter is a 
high steep bluff. These capes are the first land seen when 
making the land near San Carlos de Ancud. 

In the !N"E. part of the circular and unexplored bav of 
Huachucucuy, which opens between this cape and that of 
Huapaeho, is Huapaeho shoal, a circular extent of rocky reefs 
J mile in diameter, whose center is 3 miles N. 81° E. of cape 
Huachucucuy and 1 J mile N. 87° 30' W. of cape Huapaeho, 
with which it is connected under water. This reef must be 
avoided, especially during the night, as the land back of it 
is low and cannot be distinguished. After rounding Huachu- 
cucuy point a vessel should keep to the northeastward with 
Huapaeho point to the southward of E. by S., until the light 



ti 




";,; 



II -S 

ft 



J 







§ 



CORONA POINT. o9 

•bears S. 37° E., to avoid Huapaclio shoal and Osorio rock, 
before keeping to the southeastward. 

Bearing N". 6S? W. of point Huapacho, distant 1,180 yards Osori0 ro k 
from the point, is Osorio rock with 2 J fathoms of water over 
it ; between it and Huapacho shoal the depth varies from 
6 to 10J fathoms ; between it and Huapacho point the depth is 
but 5 fathoms; it should be avoided by sailing-vessels going 
out of Ancud or Ohacao channel with light winds, as the 
current may set in the direction of the rock at the rate of 3 
to -1 miles per hour, according to the state of the sea. 

Huapacho point forms the northern extreme of the Lacuy oi ^ t u a P acho 
peninsula ; it is a rounded cliff, barren on top and broken 
toward the sea; it is 4£ miles east of cape Huachucucuy. 
The low extremity of Huapacho is sometimes called Tenuy ; 
it probably advances farther to seaward than it formerly did. 
Vessels passing must take into account the tides, as they 
run very strong in this vicinity and should give Huapacho 
point a berth of 1J miles. 

One and one-half miles to the SE. of cape Huapacho is p™ 11 , 1 "corona or 

Huapilacuv. 

Corona point; both are formed by a chain of small hills 
separated from the large peninsula by the low isthmus of 
Tuste. 
On point Corona, li miles S. 12° E. of point Huapacho, Light: Lat. : 4P 

-, . -," 7 . . . 46' 55" S. : long. 

is a fixed white light, flashing every two minutes; it 1873° 5* 30" w. 
dioptric, of the fourth order ; the building is of wood and 
the tower of masonry, 32 feet high, painted white. The 
light is 197 feet above the sea and in clear weather visible 
12 miles. It is on the following bearings : 

West point of San Sebastian island X. 39° E. 

Center of the island Cochinos e S. 48° E. 

Cape Huachucucuy X. 82° W. 

There is a signal mast on point Corona. 

Point Aguy is a little less than 3 miles SSE. J E. from Poiat Aguy 
the light-house. It is a rounded hillock surmounted by a 
fort. It is the eastern part of the peninsula of Lacuy,. and 
the northern point of the roads of Ancud. 

A fixed white light visible between two and three miles, is Harbor^ light : 

exhibited from the cross-trees of the signal-mast, on the long. 73^31' 00 "' 

w 
upper part of Aguy point; it is useful as a guide to the an- 
chorage; near this light is a telegraph station. The harbor 
of Ancud is ou the south side of the peninsula of Lacuy, 






CO 



CHILOK AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



between it and the main-land of Chiloe, its entrance be- 
tween point Aguy and Oochinos island, is about 2 miles 
wide j from this island the harbor extends about 8 miles to 
the westward with an average width of 2 miles; it is di 
vided into two parts, the roads, which extend between the 
town and points of Aguy and Arena, and the harbor, which 
is to the westward of point Arena; the bottom is generally 
fine sand or mud and sand. 

Roadstead. Vessels which draw more than 12 feet cannot anchor off 

the town of San Carlos, but on the west coast of the harbor 
EKE. of cape Baracura, the eastern part of point Arena, 
there is about 5 fathoms, and they will be sufficiently shel- 
tered from the prevailing winds. To the KW. of the town, 
about 1 mile from the shore, is a bank on which the Shear- 
water touched; since the survey of 1835 this bank has con- 
siderably increased ; instead of 18 feet of water there are 
now but 8.8 at mean low water spring-tides. 

San Antonio There is also another shoal, called San Antonio, with 12 
feet of water on its western extremity, about 1 mile S. 31° 
E. from point Aguy : a cylindrical-shaped buoy, painted red 
and white, with a vane-spindle, has been placed near its 
northern edge in 4 fathoms of water, the point Aguy bear- 
ing K. 22° W., point Baracura bearing S. 78° W., the cus- 
tom-house at Ancud bearing S. 25° E. Both to the northward 
and to the eastward this buoy should not be approached 
nearer than 230 yards. The water is deeper to the westward 
and the bank extends to the south from the buoy. With 
westerly winds a vessel should uot anchor off the mole of 
Ancud. 

Nunez bank. On the eastern edge of the bank which extends between 
Aguy and Baracura points, and J mile E. of Nunez bank, 
is placed a red and white buoy in 3J fathoms of water, 
marking the western side of the channel ; from the buoy 
point Chairura bears S. 87° W., point Baracura S. 53° W., 
and the mole of the custom-house of Ancud S. 31° E. This 
buoy should be given a good berth and never be passed to the 
westward. It is said that there is another shoal with IS 
feet about 600 yards SW. of Arena point, but its existence 
is doubtful, as the pilots and fishermen have often searched 
for it without success. A spur of rocks with 12 feet water 
extends about 400 yards to the eastward of point Baracura. 



Tli? harbor. 



SAN CARLOS ANCHORAGE. 61 

Since 1835 the whole port has filled from 3 to 9 feet, 
especially on its east side, in front of the town. 

On a small point to SW. of the town is a government 
mole; the dock alongside of it is partially obstructed by 
sand and rocks ; it is not well to try to laud here after half 
ebb or before half flood, as the sea breaks between these 
two limits. Boats cm land with safety behind the small 
mole, but during low tide they can only make fast outside, 
where there is always a sea with west winds. The anchor - 
age off the town of San Carlos is not safe. 

The harbor is always smooth, but more contracted, it be- 
ing but 1 mile wide. There is an inlet, called the Dique, ou 
the side of the peninsula, and Quetralmahue cove at the 
inner extremity. The shores are well peopled, the fields are 
well cultivated, and a short distance in the interior there is 
wood valuable for construction. 

Sand or stone ballast must be discharged on the part of 
the coast of Lechagua comprised between Morro de Poquil- 
lihue and the estuary Munoz. 

The Chilian government established a small coaling- 
station at Pnnta Arena, where it can be taken aboard easily, 
as the point is steep and the sea always smooth. 

Ancud (the Lapi of the Indians) was named by the Span- 
iards, successively, Port Ingles and San Carlos, (1767 j) the 
Chilians gave it its present name in 1831. Its foundation 
really dates from 17G8, when the capital of Chiloe was 
transferred to it from Chacao, in the strait. From a mari- 
time point of view the location of the town is bad; the 
choice of the locality was that of a captain of dragoons, Don 
Carlos de Berauger y Eenaud. The town is built on two 
small elevations,- separated by a narrow gorge containing a 
brook which empties near the mole. The houses are small 
and of wood. The plaza, on which there is a flag-staff, is on 
the southern hill. The population of Ancud is from 5,000 
to 6,000. Oysters can be procured here, as in all the ports 
of Chiloe, in great abundance ; fowl and good potatoes are 
cheap, but provisions are more expensive than at Valparaiso. 

There is a beach for hauling up vessels and a yard for 
construction and repairs; all labor and repairs, however, 
are very expensive ; the constructors combine to raise the 
prices, instead of creating competition. 



Description. 



02 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

To the SE. of Aucud is mount Bellavista, 5G0 feet above 
the level of the sea. From this all the bay and the valley 
of the Rio Pnleto is overlooked. In the war of independ- 
ence of Chile, the last battle with the Spaniards was fought 
here. 

Mount Caucaman, to the southward of Ancud, 734 feet 
high, serves the inhabitants as an infallible weather guide j 
when its summit is covered with clouds it announces a raia, 
when, in spite of threatening weather, it is free from clouds, 
rain is not to be soon expected. 
Dona sebasti- Four miles K. 70° E. from cape Huapacho is Doiia Se- 

arta island. A L 

bastiana island, 160 feet high. Between Sebastiana and 
cape Chocay is a sand-bank about J mile SE. of the eastern 
point of the island. A shoal, called Achilles bank, extends 
4 or 5 miles to the westward. About 2 miles from the island 
there are 3£ fathoms on the bank at low water, and at 3 
miles 5J fathoms ; at the edge of the bank are from 13 to 
18 fathoms. The water over the bank is much agitated; it 
bubbles and boils during calm weather, and during gales it 
breaks in high short waves. This bank or reef extends to 
the westward in the line of Chocay point. Yessels should 
not approach this island or Carelmapu islets to the north- 
ward, as the tide produces violent eddies near them. 

carelmapu isi- The Carelmapu islets are a chain of rocks north of Sebasti- 
ana island, stretching SE. and NW. The northwest islet 
has an elevation of 141 feet. They should not be approached 
to the westward nearer than 4 miles. It is always better to 
keep closer to cape Huapacho than to Dona Sebastiana or 
Carelmapu islets. 

Yngies bank. Yngles bank, which lies about 2 miles south of Sebastiana 
and east of Corona point, must also be carefully avoided. It 
is a very dangerous shoal, 3 miles in length, and very badly 
defined, especially to the east ; the sea breaks on it with great 
violence. The least water is on its eastern part, called by 
the natives Arenillas rock. It has but 6 feet of water over 
it ; bottom either sand, sandstone, or hard tosca. It is said 
that this bank has extended J mile to the NW. since 1835. 
In order to pass to the northward of this bank, point Coro- 
nel, the northeastern point of the strait of Chacao, must be 
kept open to the northward of point San Gallen ; to pass it 



ets. 



ESMERALDA ROCK, 



G3 



E.smeraldarock, 



to westward, the SW. islet of the Carelmapu must be kept 
to the westward of Sebastiana. 

Cochinos island is surmounted by two peaks,* it is about c .chinos island. 
1 mile from the heights of Guihuen, on which Ancud is sit- 
uated. A bank coverel by 5. J feet of water makes out 1 
mile from its eastern point, and a small rock has been re- 
ported 384 yards jS" W. of it. 

Point Mutico is 2 miles ESE. of Cochinos. There is a Point iiutico. 
patch of rock about 1 mile NKW. from this point. All the 
bottom near it is very irregular and foul • masses of sea- 
weed, which appear to cling to large stones as well as rocks, 
are sometimes seen on it. A small ledge of rocks, J mile 
long, runs out from point Pecheura, which is 3 miles XE. 
of point Mutico. It is the tail of a bank which extends 
between it and point Mutico • it is connected with Yugles 
bank by depths of 2£, 3, and 4 fathoms. 

At the extremity of this 2J-fathom line of sounding is 
a rock, on which the Chilian frigate Esmeralda* touched 
lightly. It is about 4 miles W. of Puiion point, and on the 
line drawn between Cochinos and point Carelmapu. Ves- 
sels bound to San Carlos de Ancud with southerly winds 
should make the paps of Matalqui and the heights of Co- 
cotue, from thence keeping along shore round cape Hue- 
chucucuy at a distance of 1 mile, steering X. 64° E., and 
keeping point Huapacho S. of ESE. in order to avoid Hua- 
pacho shoals, until the light bears S. 37° E., keeping fully 
1 mile north of a line drawn between capes Huapacho and 
Huechucucuy, then run for this light until within J mile 
of the shore, when keep along it at this distance, rounding 
Corona and Aguy points. By conforming to these and the 
direction given above, Achilles and Yngles banks will be 
cleared. 

Between point Aguy and cape Baracura a vessel must 
not come nearer the coast than J mile, as a shoal, called 
Nunez bank, extends out about that distance. Half-way 
between these points, on its eastern edge, is placed a red 
and white buoy, as before mentioned. Merchant-vessels 
anchor in 4 fathoms, sand and mud, by keeping the light- 

*The governor of Chiloe" has reported that neither the Giiillermo nor 
the Esmeralda rocks are situated in the positions given to them on the 
charts. 



cao 



64 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

bouse oyer the western angle of the fort on point Aguy, and 
the south point of Cochinos island and point Matico in line $ 
the town will then bear ESE. This anchorage is not safe. 
A vessel bound to Aucud with northerly winds must make 
the land NW. of cape Huechucucuy in 41° 42' south lati- 
tude. The peninsula of Lacuy is about 328 feet high, and 
can be seen sufficiently far. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at San Carlos 12 b 14 m ; 

rise 6 feet. 

^strait ot cha- Chacao strait lies east of Yngles bank ; it separates Chiloe 
from the continent to the north ; is about 11 miles long and 
from 1 to 2 J Avide. In the channel the depths vary from 
9 to 42 fathoms. On its north side is cape Ohocay, the 
western extremity of this coast, with point Carelmapu 3 
miles to the eastward. They are both peaked cliffs, off 
which the tide runs with great velocity. To the southward 
of point Carelmapu the water is not deep, there being but 
3| fathoms J mile distant, outside of which the water deep- 
ens. To the eastward of this point a shoal runs along the 
shore, extending off J mile. At the entrance of the strait 

Topaze rock. H. M. S. Topaze, drawing 22 J feet, touched at half-ebb. The 
shoal is 1 mile S. 29° W. of point Carelmapu, with cape 
Chocay bearing W. 33° N. At the moment the vessel 
touched no bottom was obtained with 10 fathoms of line 
from the channels. 

punonorPuge- PuGon point, at the southern entrance of the strait of 
Chacao, is low and has a sandy beach two miles from this 
point. On a line drawn between it and Sebastiana island is 
a rocky head in 3 fathoms, called Guillermo rock. By keep- 
ing point San Gallan well open to the southward of point 
Coronel a vessel will pass to the northward of this rock. 

West of the position assigned by the charts to Guillermo 
rock there is another rock with 2 fathoms of water on it at 
low water, bearing from Carelmapu point S. 21° W. Dis- 
tance, about 2 miles. 

periagua rocks. About 1 mile WK\Y. of Puiion point is a rock which is 
uncovered at low water, aud another lies directly to the west- 
ward of it. 

The easternmost rock uncovers an hour or two before 
low water ; it is part of a reef which runs N. 64° E. and S. 
64° W. for about 400 yards. The western extremity of the 



LAOAO BAY. 65 

reef rises in two points, which are 2 feet above the water at 
low tide. Close to this rock, on the N W. and SE. sides, are 
9 fathoms of water, whereas in the direction of the reef there 
are only 4£ fathoms at a distance of 95 feet from it. Cap- 
tain Vidal Gormaz gives the following description of this 
rock : " It is black, and extends in an east and west direc- 
tion. It is 65 feet long and 32 broad, and seems to be di- 
vided from north to south. It is encircled by a whirlpool 
of i mile diameter ; the current sets over it, and the fisher- 
men say that it sucks in the boats. It should be passed at 
a distance of at least 440 yards." 

Four hundred yards to the westward of the former is the 
other reef mentioned; it is about 200 yards loug in an east 
and west direction. On its lowest part, the eastern ex- 
tremity, there are but 3 feet of water at low tide. On the 
western extremity is auother rock, which has 6 feet of water 
over it. Both of these rocks are covered with sea-weed 
which can only be seen at slack water, as the currents are 
too strong at other times. 

Accordiug to the last Chilian researches, these shoals are 
connected by a chain of rocks of very irregular shape. Dur- 
ing the strong flood very violent eddies are produced off 
Puiion point, from the irregularity of the bottom. Between 
the point and the chain of rocks shoal-water extends about 
one-third of the distance. 

About 1 mile W. 20° S. of the western Periagua rock and ro f k rhlce ofVales 
1J miles from point Puiion is a rock covered by 9 feet of 
water. It is supposed that the steamer Prince of Wales 
was lost on this rock. Its bearings are points Puiion and 
Quintraquin in line, and the NW. extremity of the heights 
of Guihuen shut in by the eastern extremity of Cochinos 
island. This rock was searched for but not found. It can- 
not, however, be asserted that it does not exist. 

To the eastward of Puiion point, between it and point i^ caoba y- 
Quintraquin, there is the island and shallow bay of Lacao. 
In it the anchorage is not good, though a vessel may wait 
here for the tide. Point Quiutraquiu is a barren cliff steep- 
to; east of it there is a good anchorage in 7£ fathoms, sand 
and shell, about ^ mile from the land. 

Point San Gallan, also on the main-land of Chiloe, is, ***»* San Gai- 

' lan. 

5 



CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



Point Coronel. 



Petucura rock. 



about 2 miles from point Quintraquin. It is steep, about 
500 feet high, and covered with a remarkable clump of trees. 

The north coast opposite is clean, but low, excepting near 
point Coronel, the eastern limit of the strait, where the 
cliffs are 100 feet high ; behind these the land rises to 200 
feet and is thickly wooded. There is a timber-yard .at this 
point. 

Between point San Gallan and point Santa Teresa, on the 
continent, the strait is 1 mile wide, this being its narrowest 
part ; J mile farther to the eastward the strait is divided 
into two narrow channels by the rocks Petucura and Selu- 
ian, either of which can be taken. 

Aside from the velocity of the tides, which may render 
steering difficult, there are no dangers in (Jhacao strait 
other than the Petucura and Seluian rocks. Petucura rocks, 
which uncover at half-tide, are in the narrowest part of the 
strait, and nearly in midchannel. Their southern part is 
situated at the intersection of two lines, one drawn from the 
extremity of point Coronel to the extremity of San Gallan, 
and the other from the summit of Santa Teresa to the sum- 
mit of Ohacao. This southern part, which has from 2 to 4J 
fathoms on it at low tide, extends as far under water as the 
northern part, which uncovers, does above the water. The 
highest part of Petucura, having 2 fathoms of water on it 
at high tide, uncovers at low water for 69 feet east and west, 
and 10 feet north and south. From its summit, point Coro- 
nel bears S. 81° E.; point Tres Cruces bears S. 43° E. ; point 
San Gallan bears S. 84° W. 

Seluian rock is more dangerous to large vessels than Pe- 
tucura ; it lies S. 65° E., J mile from it, with 2 fathoms of 
water over it at low tide. The water is deep around it, as 
around Petucura, except to the eastward, where a reef makes 
out i mile. Seluian is at the intersection of a line drawn from 
point Eemolinos to the summit of a hill near point Coronel 
with another from point Santa Teresa to the summit of a hill 
half-way between point Chacao and point Tres Cruces. The 
line which joins Seluian and Petucura is parallel to the 
rocky coast. The ebb and flood tides run by and over these 
pointRemoimos. rocks with great velocity. From this point Eemolinos, 
which is small, rocky, and clear, situated about 1 mile SE. 



Seluian rock. 



CHACAO HEAD AND BAY. 67 

of point San Gallan, the strait commences to enlarge. The 
stretch between these two points is free from dangers. 
Chacao bay is on the south side of the eastern entrance chacao head and 

bay. 

to the strait, 1^ miles from point Remolinos, and opens to 
northward of cape Chacao. An excellent anchorage will be 
found £ mile north of the cape in 9 fathoms of water, bot- 
tom mud and sand. About 1 mile to the eastward of Cha- 
cao head there are some rocks, which extend from the shore 
about \ mile to the northward. 

When the Spaniards established themselves on Chiloe 
they made Chacao their headquarters and moored their ves- 
sels in this bay, but the strong currents of the strait, and 
the rocks which divide it, rendered this anchorage unsuit- 
able for their indifferent vessels, hence the foundation of 
San Carlos. 

The small promontory Tres Cruces is the eastern limit of Ca P e Tres Cru - 
the strait on the Chiloe side; it is 1 J miles from point Coro- 
nel, there being a depth of 55 fathoms of water between 
them. 

It is high water, full and change, in Chacao strait at h 50 m ; Tides. 
springs rise 16 feet and neaps 7. 

Through the entire strait of Chacao the current increases currents. 
in proportion as the distance between the shores diminishes. 
From 2 miles off cape Huechucucuy the current attains a 
velocity of 3 or 4 knots, between Sebastiana and Huapacho, 
which is about their average velocity in the gulf of San 
Carlos ; off point Puiion they run from 4 to 5 knots, and be- 
tween points San Gallan and Santa Teresa from 5 to 7 knots. 
The flood generally sets from W. to E., following the sinu- 
osities of the channel; it runs ESE. between Sebastiana 
and the light-house, and inclines to SE. on leaving the 
strait. The Petucura and Seluian rocks divide the current 
without changing its direction. The strong eddies in the 
gulf of San Carlos render this navigation still more dan- 
gerous. 

On leaving San Carlos there are two routes to the strait Directions be- 

° tween the straits 

of Chacao, one by passing to the northward and westward ofchacao and San 
of Yugles bank ; the other to southward and eastward; the 
latter route is not advisable, though the mail-boats and large 
coasters, called periaguas, use it constantly, but the patrons 
of these vessels cannot be trusted as pilots in vessels draw- 



68 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

ing more than 6 feet. During low water there is only 4 
fathoms between Yngles' bank and the Playa de Huicha, 
which joins Mutico aud Pecheura points ; the accidents to 
the Esmeralda and Prince of Wales also lead to the belief 
that there may be other unknown rocks, which cannot be 
easily found on account of the strong currents. The deepest 
water is on the line connecting the paps of Huechupulli 
with the low part of point Carelinapu; this line passes 
through the middle of the Oochinos. whereas point Puiion 
remains a little to starboard, but as long as the hydrography 
is uncertain it is best to take the other passage. In the 
route to the northward and westward of Yngles bank, round 
point Agiiy, J mile distant ; when it bears W. steer N. by W. 
• to get on the bearing already given for clearing Yngles point. 
The Corona light m ust be passed at a distance of not more than 
one mile, and if the vessel be set to the southward by the cur- 
rent, a course to the westward of N. by W. must be taken. 
When Corona light bears W. Agiiy point should bear S., then 
steer for the western cliff of Sebastiana until east of point 
Huapacho, when head to the eastward for the channel, keep- 
ing 1J miles from point Carelmapu, to avoid Topaze rock ; as 
soon as that point bears K. the middle of the strait should be 
taken, and the Petucura and Seluian rocks can be passed on 
either side. Not less than 7J fathoms will be found on this 
route. From point Carelmapu to San Carlos, after gaining 
a position a short mile to the southward of point Carelmapu, 
steer for point Huapacho. When Agiiy point bears south, 
run for it, passing it within £ mile, and when south of the 
western cliff off Sebastiana round the point, as before directed 
for the anchorage. 

The state of the tide and wind are the principal things to 
be taken into consideration when going through this strait ; 
there is anchorage on the south side in Lacao bay, between 
Punon and Quintraqain points, close to the land on the east 
side of Quintraquiu point and in Chacao bay. Though the 
tide runs with great velocity through this strait, it sweeps 
on either side and not over the Petucura and Seluian rocks ; 
the strait is not so formidable as considered by the Chilian 
coasters; but as the westerly swell is heavy and constant 
and the current so strong, the passage should not be at- 
tempted without a pilot and a favorable wind and tide. 



CHILEN BLUFF. 



69 



The gulf of Ancud opens to the eastward of the strait of 
Ohacao. It is bounded by the continent, the islands of the 
continent, and Chiloe to tbe west, north, and east, and by 
the islands Desertores and Ohaulinec to the south. The 
strong currents at the entrance to the strait decrease in 
velocity toward the southern part of the gulf, except in the 
contracted passages, and there they only attain to £ knot 
per hour. The rise and fall of the tide reaches its maximum 
in the gulfs of Ancud and Oorcovado. 

After entering the gulf of Ancud, Chilen bluff will be 
seen 5 miles to the southward of point Tres Gruces. It is a 
low point of shingle ; at its extremity there was a remark- 
able tree in 1835 ; J mile in the interior the island rises 
suddenly to about 150 feet; about 2£ miles to the NW. of 
it there is another hill of the same elevation which ends in 
a rocky point, between which and Chilen bluff is a good 
cove for boats, called Manao bay. 

Vessels can anchor NE. of the rocky point, £ mile from 
the land, in 15 fathoms. Between point Tres Cruces and 
Chilen bluff the tides near the land have a velocity of from 
1J to 2 miles per hour. Between this bluff and point Tique, 
to the NNE., on the continent near the entrance of the 
strait, the eddies and tide-rips are very strong when the 
wind is fresh from the southward. They are called Raya 
de Tique. Off Chilen bluff the tide is but £ knot per hour. 

Two miles SW. of Chilen bluff is Linao cove, which, though 
small, offers a good anchorage. A reef of rocks runs out 
about 1 mile from cape Huapi-Linao, the southern limit of 
Linao cove. This cape is a large isolated hill, connected 
with the land by a low neck, which, seen from the east, is a 
good landmark for entering. The soundings in the bay are 
from 4 to 6 fathoms. It is about § mile broad at the 
entrance, and 2 miles long. 

Maypii bank is a shoal with 4£ fathoms of water, reported 
5J miles E. from cape Huapi-Linao, and 4 miles S. 60° E. 
of Chilen bluff. 

Queniao point is a shingle beach between Huapi-Linao 
and point Hueniao ; it is dry at low water to about 1 mile 
from the land. The small village of Lliuco is* situated 4 
miles SE. of Huapi-Linao. Between these points the shore, 
formed of high wooded cliffs, is about 200 feet high. To 



Gulf of Ancud. 



Chilen bluff. 



Linao cove. 



Maypu bank. 



Point Queniao. 



70 



CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



Strait of Cauca 
hue. 



Port Huite 
Oscuro cove. 



Tides. 



Quenche. 



the SE. of the village the land is low as far as point 
Queniao, when it again rises to 200 feet. The point had a 
remarkable isolated tree on its extremity in 1835. The 
water is shoal 1 mile from this point. 

Point Queniao is at the KE. entrance of Caueahue strait, 
which is formed by Chiloe and the island Caueahue. 
There is 8 fathoms at the NE. entrance, 22 fathoms off 
Quenche, and 50 fathoms at the SE. entrance; bottom 
mud and rock. 

About J J miles SW. of Queniao is a sand- bank, in 2 fath- 
oms of water, about J mile from the shore ; the water then 
deepens suddenly from 7J to 12 fathoms near the rocky 
point which forms the small but useful bay of Oscuro, or 
Port Huite. This cove, a little inside the strait of Cauea- 
hue, can often be of great advantage, as the tide rises and 
falls from 16 to 19 feet, as it is always calm and the depths 
are good to the beach; the entrance is about 600 yards 
wide, and the point of the shoal is steep- to ; there are at 
least 7 fathoms within 165 feet of low-water mark, and 
from 12 to 15 fathoms in the middle of the cove ; bottom 
mud and sand. The west side of the entrance to the strait 
is formed by a rocky point, with stones projecting out about 
100 yards ; vessels should keep over to the opposite side of 
the entrance, under cape Lobos, a peaked hill of 250 feet 
elevation, the north point of Caueahue island, which is a 
promontory covered by trees. Behind this promontory the 
ground falls suddenly and rises again at a short distance. 
A vessel can be laid ashore, or hove down and repaired 
with facility and security in this cove. It is one of the few 
places on the west coast of America which offers these 
advantages. 

It is high water, full and change, at Oscuro cove at h 55 m ; 
springs rise 20 feet. The flood tide is very strong during 
the springs, and sets to the northward. 

In this strait there is another good place for stranding 
vessels, called Quenche. Its entrance is about 3 J miles to 
the southward and eastward of Queniao point, at the nar- 
rowest part of the strait, the channel being contracted by 
two sandy points. On passing these care should be taken 
to keep to the Caueahue side until the beach or stranding 
place of Quenche, which is the continuation of the western 



QUENCHE. 71 

point, is entirely open ; the anchor can then be dropped in 
14 to 19 fathoms, muddy bottom. This varadero is about 
230 feet long; during spring-tides the rise and fall is from 
23 to 26 feet ; the fall is sufficient to beach vessels drawing 
12 feet. The beach is of fine sand and gravel, with an 
inclination of 5°. An hour after the beginning of the ebb it 
is dry through its entire length. The upper part of the beach 
is triangular, steep, and formed of small stones ; in its upper 
angle a small stream empties from a gorge running WSW. 
This stream traverses a natural mole, the bottom of which is 
also of sand and gravel, and 8 feet above high- water springs; 
inside of this dam vessels of 300 tous can be hove down, 
entering the stream at high water. There are two rocks 
about 100 yards from its entrance. 

To the eastward of this varadero the land, as at that point, 
is flat and about 6 feet above the level of high water. Three 
hundred and twenty-eight yards inland it rises suddenly, 
and presents rugged mountain ravines, thickly wooded or 
naked, and inhabited by the native Indians. To the west- 
ward the laud is high from the water's edge, and is crowned 
by magnificent trees. It was proposed to substitute the 
varadero of Quenche for that of Tenglo (Puerto Montt) or 
of Huito, (Calbuco,) but the locality was found to be wholly 
barren of resources, and having only a few huts, inhabited 
by about 250 Indians. It is said that the E. and SE. winds, 
though rare, produce a sea which is troublesome on enter- 
ing or leaving this harbor. At this point is the greatest 
rise and fall of the tide of any place in the gulf, which is 
without doubt due to the fact that it is on the line of junc- 
tion of the two tide- waves which enter, one by the gulf of 
Corcovado, and the other by the strait of Ohacao. The 
currents are weak, but the beach is not so well sheltered as 
that of Tenglo or Huito. 

The southern extremity of the SE. entrance to the strait Point chogon. 
of Caucahue is point Chogon ; it is a hill 200 feet high, sit- 
uated about 1 mile to the southward of point Quintergen, 
the southern extremity of the Caucahue island. The latter 
point is low and stony; a bank makes out from it about J 
mile. The next point south on Chiloe is Quicavi hill. Be- Quicavi Muff, 
tween it and point Chogon the coast recedes a little ; in 
the middle of this indentation the river Colu empties ; it is 



72 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

very small, aud is only accessible to boats. There is a shoal 
about J mile in extent off point Quicavi ; at its extremity is 
a rock which uncovers at half-tide ; it is said that there is 
another rock nearly in midchannel which uncovers at low 
water, but the officers of the Beagle could not find it. There 
is a tide-rip between Ghauques island and Quicavi hill. 
The safe part of the channel is hardly 1J miles wide ; in 
order to pass through it, point Huachuque, on the western- 
most of the Ohauques islands, must be kept in line with the 
northern extremity of Meulin island, the coast of which has 
a cleft at this point of a remarkable form. This direction 
is to be followed until point Quicavi shows out well ; coming 
from the north or south the same bearing answers. There 
is not less than 9 fathoms. 

Quicavi lagoon. About 1 mile to the southward of Quicavi point is Qui- 
cavi lagoon ; boats entering after the first quarter of the 
flood can remain afloat in some parts of it even at low tide. 
This lagoon can be recognized by a narrow border of peb- 
bles, on which there is a grove of trees, and from which a 
reef runs out to the eastward of Quicavi hill. Behind it 
the land, thickly wooded, rises to an elevation of 250 feet. 
Here and there are some few spots under cultivation. There 
is a safe but contracted anchorage off the lagoon ; from it 
the entrance of the lagoon bears N. 15° W., and the point 
which forms it to northward, N. 39° E. The entrance, how- 
ever, must not be approached too closely, for almost along- 
side of the beach no bottom is found with 20 fathoms. 
The rise and fall of tide is 20 feet ; in the lagoon, the chan- 
nel leading to it has that depth, and at low water is almost 
dry. 

cnauquis isi- The Chauquis group consists of four islands, and is 3 miles 
to the eastward of Quicavi bluff. They are divided by a chan- 
nel which first runs NE. and SW., then N. and S., and which 
is 1J miles wide at its narrowest part. In its center are 
48 fathoms of water, and often no bottom at 55 fathoms. 
The SW. island is the highest, having an elevation of about 
.S50 feet, and it forms a chain which runs NW. and SE. 
On the NE. island is a round hill, less elevated than that of 
the western islands; the rest of the island is much lower. 
There are some cultivated spots on these islands, but they 
seem to be little inhabited by the Indians. 



TENOUN POINT. 



73 



Pulmun reef. 



A small islet, connected with the coast by a reef of rocks, 
lies off the SE. point of the western Chauquis ; \ mile from 
this islet there is no bottom with 28 fathoms ; but in the 
channel between the east and west Chauquis the water 
shoals suddenly to 2 fathoms on a reef which runs out from 
the rocky point near the islet. To the northward of this 
reef is the entrance to a narrow boat-channel separating 
the two western islands. Eeefs make out from the XW. 
points of the NE. and NW. islands; the latter extends 1J 
miles from its extremity, in 10 fathoms of water. The west- 
ern hill of Meulin is a little open of the low point, under 
the hill of the SW. island. To the southward of this island 
is Dugoab reef and a small island, named Tac. A large 
bank, dry at low-water springs, is marked on the charts 
10 miles north of the Chauquis. 

Four miles to the northward of the NW. point of the NW. 
island of Chauquis, and the same distance from point Qui- 
cavi, is Pulmun reef. It extends NW. and SE., and uncov- 
ers in two places \ mile apart; the sea breaks on it. 

From Quicavi hill to point Tenoun, the coast of Chile is Tenoun point. 
flat for \ mile back of the beach. A reef makes out from 
poiut Tenoun, which is dry at low water for more than \ 
mile from the shore. For £ mile from the beach the water 
is shoal, when it suddenly deepens to 9 fathoms. This reef 
does not make out exactly from the extremity of the point, 
but from a hill situated a little to the northward. The point 
is low and thickly wooded for \ mile, when it suddenly rises 
to 200 feet. The southern side of the point is steep-to, and 
at less than \ mile from it the depth exceeds 19 fathoms. 
One hundred yards from the beach there are 7 fathoms of 
water. Vessels can, if necessary, anchor in a moderate 
depth near Tenoun point, 100 yards from the shore, off 
a small village marked by a church. Vessels are here 
sheltered from N. and NW. winds. A bank, dry at low 
water, is reported to lie between this point and Linlin 
island. 

The flood, which comes from the southward, doubles point 
Tenoun and sets across to the Chauquis islands. The ebb, 
which sets to the S W., passes around and close to the point, 
and during spring tides has a velocity of 2 knots. 



Tides. 



74 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

oiStaico 5 * 1611 and Five miles to the westward of point Tenoun is port Oalen, 
which is sheltered from the prevailing winds. Two miles 
farther is Quetalco, which has capacity for a large number 
of vessels, with a moderate depth throughout. It is per- 
fectly sheltered from the K. and W. winds, which are so fre- 
qent in these localities during the entire year. Vessels can 
await in these ports until a storm subsides ; or, if bound to 
the southward through Dalcahue channel, await high water. 
Linim island. Linlin island, 4 miles to the SW. of point Tenoun, at the 
entrance of the Quinchao channel, is low in the center, and 
rises gradually to a round hill, which terminates in a higher 
elevation at its north and south extremities. One mile from 
the EW. side of this island there are 27 fathoms ; bottom 
sand and mud. After passing Linlin, no bottom is found 
at 164 fathoms in the middle of Quinchao channel. To the 
southward of Linlin there is a small island called Linna* 
ii n Ca QTnac M a e nd Oahuache,, Meulin, Quenac, and Tenquetil islands are sit- 
Tenquetn island ua ted SE. of Linlin, half-way between the Quinchao and 
Chauquis islands. There is a round hill on Oahuache 246 
feet high, from which all the surrounding islands can be 
seen. The northern part of the island is low ; the southern 
falls abruptly to the shore. Off its NE. point is Tenquetil 
island, which is connected with it by a reef, on which there 
is but water enough at low tide to float a boat. 

Oahuache is entirely cleared and well cultivated, with 
many apple-trees around the houses. The population con- 
sists of Indians and a few Spaniards. 

Meulin, to the NW. of Oahuache, is undulating. One and 
one-half miles NW. of Meulin is a chain of rocks, on which 
there is but 2 fathoms of water ; this chain is separated 
from the island by a narrow channel 1J miles long. 

Quenac, to the southward of Meulin, extends 3J miles in 
an east and west direction. A shoal in 3 fathoms of water, 
covered with sea-weed, lengthens its SW. point; it is neces- 
sary to pass LJ miles from the point. There is a passage 
between Quenac and Oahuache. 
Tiquia reef. Tiquia reef is placed 2 or 3 miles to the eastward of Oa- 

huache ; it is about 3 miles in length from NW. to SE., and 
J mile wide; it uncovers at low water. It is reported that 
there is a passage between this reef and Oahuache through 
which a brig passed. 



THE DESEETORES ISLANDS. 75 

The Ckeliii and Quehuy islands are situated between the cheiin and Que- 
SE. point of the Quinchao and Lemuy islands ; a vessel 
can anchor temporarily to the southward of Quehuy. The 
KE. extremity of Quehuy, called Iinel, is connected with it 
by a narrow neck. One mile to the SE. of Imel is a bank 
of pebbles, which is dry at low water and narrows the chan- 
nel between Imel and Ghaulinec. A French brig was lost 
on this bank. 

Chaulinec, which is to the eastward of Quehuy, is a hilly cnauiinecAiau, 

.,,,..,, . . ., ., ., , -,,,•••,' and Apiau islands. 

island b miles loug with 1 J miles average breadth ; it is ter- 
minated to the eastward by a beach of pebbles. To tli< j 
northward of Chaulinec, and to the eastward of the SE. 
extremity of Quinchao, there are two small islands, called 
Alau and Apiau. Reefs run out from the northern extrem- 
ities of both, that of the latter for 2^ miles. At the SW. 
extremity of Alau, between it and Chaulinec, at the en- 
trance of the channel, is a small cove or harbor which 
affords good anchorage for vessels of small draught. The 
point is steep-to, and the channel on that side clear. Ves- 
sels can anchor temporarily to the SE. of Chaulinec in 17 
fathoms, sandy bottom; this anchorage is open and exposed 
to strong currents. 

In the narrow channel which separates the islands of Bank of Chiut - 
Chaulinec and Chiut, there is a bank or reef reported about 
2 miles SSW. from the island of Chiut; it extends XXE. 
and SSW. about 160 yards, with a breadth of about 32 yards ; 
it is probable that some of the rocky heads which form this 
bank uncover at low water. 

The group Desertores is situated ESE. of Chaulinec. h\^ Desertores ia- 

° L lands. 

midchannel between them and the latter island there is 93 
fathoms of water over a bottom of coral and broken shells. 
Talcan, the largest, is 9 miles long and 4 miles broad, and 
has a deep inlet in its SE. extremity. The smaller islands, 
Chulin, Chiut, Mhuel, Ymerquiiia, and Nayahue, do not offer 
any shelter to vessels excepting at the northern extremity 
of the latter island, which is divided by a channel having 
from 2 to 9£ fathoms, but which can only be used by coast- 
ers. There are some few rocks J mile outside of the SE. 
point of Nayahue. 

There are many scattered rocks off the S. and SW. coasts Taican. 
of Talcan about 1 mile from the shore. Off the north point 



76 



CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 



Driver rock. 



Talcan inlet. 



a shoal extends 1 J miles ; it has on it from 4 to 6 fathoms of 
water; 2 miles from this point is a rock which rises about 
10 feet above the water, and is much frequented by seals. 
A good lookout must be kept for these rocks by vessels 
seeking an anchorage. 

Driver rock is reported to be 2J miles NW. of Talcan, at 
the entrance of the channel between Chiut and Chulin, 
even with the water. 

Talcan inlet is at the SE. extremity of Talcan island ; its 
depth varies from 7 to 12 fathoms, and for two miles from 
the entrance the shore can be approached within 200 yards ; 
the land on both sides rises gradually to about 200 feet and 
is covered with thick woods. At the end of the inlet the 
land is low and the shore flat and muddy; there are some 
few huts along the shore. It is visited by the inhabitants 
of the other islands during the fishing-season. The current 
runs about 4 knots during spring-tides. 

Immediately inside of the entrance, between the exterior 
points of the island, is a bay containing several banks of 
broken stones and sea- weed ; and about J mile from there, 
in the line of the point, is a reef of rocks which uncovers at 
low water. To the northward is a small channel which 
leads to the bay, having in it from 7 to 9 fathoms up to the 
entrance of the harbor, which is nearly closed by broken 
stones ; the maximum depth 200 yards from the entrance is 
3 fathoms. 

In the middle of the channel, between the continent and 
the SE. point of Talcan, there are 85 fathoms ; the channel is 
hardly 2 miles long, 
soiitaria islets. The Solitaria are small islets surrounded by 'a reef; they 
lie 5J miles S. 73° W. from the western point of Nayahue, 
nearly in the middle of the channel between Ohiloe and the 
Desertores, in latitude 42° 45 / 30 // S., longitude 73° 10' 50" W. 
Quinchaoisiand. Returning to the islands which border Ohiloe, Quinchao 
island is the largest of the group of islands situated in the 
bay which opens south of Tenaun point. It is about 18 
miles long in a S. 48° E. and N. 48° W. direction ; the north- 
ern part of Quinchao channel turns gradually to the west- 
ward as far as the NW. point of the island ; there it turns 
suddenly SW. into the Dalcahue channel, and is not more 



DELCAHUE CHANNEL. 77 

than 1 mile wide. The small village Dalcahue is situated 
on Chilo6 ; to southward of it is a saw-mill. 

About J mile to. the eastward of the turn iu the channel ne ? a,cabue chan ' 
there is from 4 to 9 fathoms, muddy bottom ; there is no 
water on the north coast, and vessels must not approach 
nearer than J of the width of the channel. The shoal which 
commences here runs around the bay off Dalcahue and in 
front of the saw-mill of this village ; it takes up half of the 
channel. In the center of the channel is a bank which un- 
covers at low- water springs, leaving a passage on either side 
of it; at low tide there are 10 feet of water in the one on 
the side of Dalcahue, whereas there are 20 in that on tin- 
side of Quiuchao, it being more narrow. The shoalest part 
of the Dalcahue channel is between the point of the pass 
and the saw-mill, which is a little farther south than Dalca- 
hue ; it has only 10 feet at low and 24 feet at high water. 
The Dalcahue channel can therefore be cleared by vessels 
drawing less than 23 feet. A sailing-vessel should never 
attempt this channel with a head wind. If bound to the 
northward she should wait between poiuts Hucuao and Que- 
lirquehni, or in the bay of Guraco, and never attempt to 
double point Quelirquehui before the flood has run at least 
3 hours. If bound to the southward she should wait for a 
favorable time at the entrance of the channel in the ports of 
Oalen or Quetalco in the Quiuchao channel. 

During springs the tide runs nearly 4 knots; the ebb sets Tides. 
to the southward and the flood to northward. The rise and 
fall is about 15 feet. 

Dalcahue channel opens to the southward into a large Relan cove and 

reef. 

bay formed by the two coasts ; on that of Chiloe is the 
small cove and village of Relan ; at the entrance of the cove 
there are 18 fathoms of water. The coast is steep to as far 
as the E. point; there a shoal of pebble and larger stones 
commences, which uncovers at low water to about i or J 
mile from the land. This shoal reaches to a low, stony 
beach, where it terminates in a ridge which extends more 
than 1 mile to the SE. On the KE. side of this ridge the 
water is shoal lor some distance, but on the SW. side there 
are 3 fathoms close to the shore. The ebb sets in with Tides - 
great force across Relan reef to the SE. in the direction of 
the channel between Lemuy and Chelin islands ; between 



78 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

Lemuy and the continent the currents are scarcely felt, the 
little there is sets to the eastward. During springs the 
water rises 18 feet above the level of mean low water. 
Castro inlet. From Relan reef to Castro inlet the channel is from 2 to 

3 miles wide; in the middle of the channel there are 42 
fathoms of water; muddy bottom ; it leads to the entrance 
of Castro inlet. The eastern point of the inlet is low and 
stony, but it can be passed within J mile in 12 fathoms. 
The eastern side of the entrance is formed by Lentinao 
islet, which is united to Chiloe by a sand spit which is dry 
at low water ; from the exterior of this islet a stony point 
runs out to the eastward 200 yards ; the southern portion of 
this point is steep-to. 

To the southward of Lentinao islet is the small harbor 
Quinched, where a vessel bound to Castro can await a favor- 
able time to run up, in case she found the wind baffling in 
the first two reaches ; this is generally the case with north 
winds, though they may be strong outside; and no anchor- 
age can be found in either of these reaches until too near 
the shore tor safety. 

One-half mile above the second reach of Castro inlet the 
east coast can be approached within 100 yards, but the 
other side is flat and shoal to within ^ mile of the beach, 
and the soundings decrease too rapidly to admit of navi- 
gating by the lead. 

Going up or down, the eastern shore should be kept ; not 
leaving it more than two-thirds the width of the channel. 

The eastern coast is formed by steep and thickly-wooded 
cliffs, about 150 feet high. The western coast rises gradu- 
ally to a height of from 400 to 500 feet ; 5 miles from the 
shore is a chain of mountains of almost equal height, thick- 
ly wooded, having an elevation of about 1,000 feet. 

About 2 miles below Castro is a small cove, on the east 
shore, in which a vessel can anchor in case of necessity ; 
there are 20 fathoms between the points, but it shoals sud- 
denly as soon as the line connecting these points is passed. 
Point Castro is a level plateau, about 98 feet above the sea- 
level, which separates the small harbor in the north from 
the river Gamboa, to the south ; it is terminated by a low, 
pebbly point, steep-to on the north side, but on its south- 
ern side a bank commences, which follows the western 



CASTRO HARBOR. 



79 



shore of this part of the inlet. The small harbor of Castro, Cast™ harbor. 
to the northward of point Castro, is J mile long and £ mile 
wide; between the points are 7 fathoms, but this depth de- 
creases gradually to 3 fathoms, J mile inside. The best 
anchorage is very near the south point; the northern side 
is shoal 100 yards from shore. In steering for the harbor a 
vessel must keep along the east shore until off the port, and 
then steer a course perpendicular to the entrance. By this, 
the bank to the southward of point Castro, which extends 
J mile out, will be avoided. 

The town of Castro is situated near the exterior part of Description. 
point Castro. It consists of several small streets with 
wooden houses. There were two churches in a very poor 
condition in 1831. Castro has, in fact, been almost aban- 
doned. The few inhabitants are poor. San Carlos d'Ancud 
and Castro, 38 miles apart in a straight line, are connected 
by a road through the forests ; this road is oO feet wide ; 
in its ceutjer is a path of 5 feet width, formed by logs placed 
transversely; it can only be used in dry weather. The 
earthquake of 1837 has changed the surroundings of Castro. 

The greatest velocity of the current during springs does Tides. 
not exceed 1J knots: it is very weak during the neaps. 

The village of Quinched is about 3 miles to the westward 
of the entrance to Castro inlet. The country is well culti- 
vated and thickly peopled for 3 or 4 miles on either side of 
the inlet. 

After passing Quinched the soil is only cultivated in 
spots ; the remainder is wooded. About 1 mile south of the 
small harbor of Quinched the channel is 1J miles wide, and 
its depth in the middle is 41 fathoms. 

Lemuy island is the sou'thern boundary of the channel Lemuy island. 
leading to Castro inlet. On the north coast of this island 
Poqueldon is the principal village, located on the east side 
of a small narrow cove, about 150 feet above the water. 

The cove is not deep enough to offer any shelter ; there 
is an anchorage, however, J mile from the east point, with 
from 4 to 5 fathoms of water. The village consists of about 
20 houses built around a square; a church, the finest and 
largest between San Carlos and Castro, forming one side. 
Poqueldon, although smaller, seems to be more prosperous 
and in better condition than Castro. 



Village of Quin- 
ched. 



80 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHIPELAGO. 

At the NW. point of Lemuy is a cove, near which the 
shore is rocky and steep-to ; at its entrance there is no 
bottom with 20 fathoms, but half-way in there is good 
anchorage for a small vessel in 7 to 9J fathoms, mudd3 T 
bottom. It is difficult to land, as at high tide* the water 
rises to the trees, and at low water it leaves a muddy beach. 
Some lignite has been discovered at Lemuy. 

D6tif promon- 'Detif headland, the southern extremity of the Lemuy 
island, terminates on the western side in a cliff 150 feet 
high, which is the eastern limit of the island. The cliff is 
surmounted by a round hill 250 feet high, from which the 
land descends gradually to a low tongue about J mile in 
length ; it then rises again to the eastward to the original 
height. A shoal of pebbles extends out about f mile from 
the point; it is steep-to on the west side, but extends to 
the eastward to the next point about 1£ miles ; there are, at 
100 yards from the extremity of the bank, 6J fathoms, and 
at 400 yards no bottom with 30 fathoms; the SE. extremity 
of the promontory is called point Detif. 

Apobon point Froui Apobon point, the northern extremity of Detif 
headland, a reef exteuds 3^ miles to the eastward; there is 
a dry rock at the exterior extremity of the bank, and the 
latter uncovers at low water for about J mile on each side 
of the rock ; a vessel should never attempt to cross this 
reef, although there are 10 feet at low water between the 
rock aud the land, as the current sets over it with great 
violence and very irregularly. 

Yai point. A bayou 5 miles long and very deep is formed by Lemuy 

island and Chiloe, which terminates at point Yal, where the 
channel is very narrow ; the shores then separate, forming 
Yal bay. Outside of point Yal are two low shingle islands, 
which are connected by a spit, covered at low water. The 
passage between this double island and Lemuy is 1J miles 
wide and 12 fathoms deep ; vessels can, therefore, work to 
windward in it. On the opposite side, that is between point 
Yal and the double island, the passage is narrow, but deep 
enough for all vessels. 

Off the NE. extremity of the exterior island a dangerous 
ridge extends about ^ mile in 2 fathoms of water ; its ex- 
treme point seems to extend about J mile farther out. 



GULF OF CORCOVADO. 81 

One mile south of point Yal is a steep hill, which forms ba Yal cove and 
tne southern point of Yal cove, and a little in the interior 
from this point is a flat hillock covered with trees. 

The entrance to Yal cove is to the northward of the steep 
hill. Both points of this small harbor are steep to, and 
there is no bottom with 20 fathoms in the middle of the 
channel between them, but half-way in good anchorage will 
be found in 5 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom. 

The steep hill forms also the north point of Yal bay. 
Between the points of this bay, which is 2 miles wide, there 
is no bottom with 64 fathoms; there is no anchorage in the 
outer bay of Yal until within J mile of the hill, where there 
is 23 fathoms; the depth thence decreases to low- water mark. 
It is not a good anchorage, however, and vessels should only 
use it in cases of necessity. On the west side there is a 
hillock resembling that to the eastward, but less elevated ; 
when coming from the south both will be recognized and 
they form an excellent landmark for the cove. The laud 
behind them is low and thickly wooded. Point Tebao, the 
southern extremity of the bay, is low but steep-to, there 
being 9J fathoms within 100 yards of the beach; a little to 
the southward the coast is flat and the shoal water extends 
out about J mile. 

The gulf of Corcovado is limited on the north by the Guif of corco- 
Ohaulinec and the Desertores islands, and extends to the 
southward between the continent, Chiloe and the Guaitecas 
islands. The currents, which are feeble in its northern part, 
increase near the entrance to the gulf, between Chiloe and 
the Guaitecas. 

Point Ahoni is 5 miles SE. by E. from Yal bay. ^ear a Point Ahoni. 
little brook to the eastward of this point a bank commences 
with 3 fathoms, which borders the coast to the SE. for sev- 
eral miles. To the southward the coast is rocky and rises 
in cliffs to 150 feet. Point Lelbun is about 1 miles from 
Ahoni; off it the shoal just mentioned extends for 1^ miles; 
it deepens to 6J fathoms, and is covered with masses of sea- 
weed. During spriugs the ebb-tide runs about 2 knots to 
the SE. 

The low and rocky cape Aytay is about 3 miles to the capeAytay. 
southward of point Lelbun; about 2 miles from the land are 
several protruding rocks; thev are part of a reef which 
6c 



82 CHILOE AND ITS ARCHEPELAGO. 

makes out from the cape ; soundings show 5 fathoms 200 
yards outside of the exterior rock. From there the edge of 
the large shoal already mentioned runs toward a sandy 
point covered by a grove of trees, situated 2 miles north of 
point Quelan; after passing this point the depth is 11 fath- 
oms 1 mile from the land. 

point Queian. Point Quelan is a long and narrow spit, very low, and 
covered by trees, excepting about £ mile from its end, where 
there is nothing but sand. This spit is about 600 feet long. 
On the SE. side the beach has a gradual slope, there being 
but 2 fathoms of water J mile from the shore. Off the point 
the soundings show 6£ fathoms at less than 100 yards. The 
small island Acuy, 3 miles to the eastward of this point, is 
low at its SW. extremity, and terminates on the northeast 
in a cliff 200 feet high, off which are some detached rocks, 
extending out about 2 miles. The island is, in fact, sur- 
rounded by a bank of rocks and pebbles, covered with sea- 
weed, a part of which uncovers at low water, and extends 
about 1 mile outside of the W. point. The channel between 
point Quelan and Tranque island is about 1 mile wide 5 the 
ebb sets to the westward, and, during neaps, has a velocity 
of 2 knots. 

Tranque ^land. Tranque island is 13 miles long and 3 wide ; it is situated 
to the southward of point Quelan, and shelters Quelan cove 
and Compu inlet. A chain of hills traverses this island 
from WNW. to BSE., which is about 300 feet high at the 
most elevated point, near the NW. extremity $ from thence 
it gradually declines to the SE., and terminates in a low 
point, called Oentinella. 

Numandaroc During the war of Spain with the South American repub- 
lics, the frigates Numaacia and Blanca discovered the Nu- 
mancia rock, 2 J miles N. 68° E. of point Oentinella. It is 
black, about 65 feet long, and the sea washes over it. The 
existence of this rock has been questioned. H. M. S. 
Nassau subsequently passed the position several times with- 
out seeing it ; on the other hand, it is reported to have been 
known to the sealers for many years. On roundiug or pass- 
ing point Oentinella a good lookout should be kept for it. 

The northern coast of Tranque has a gradual slope and is 
well wooded. There is a small bay at the NW. point of the 
island, where the channel suddenly turns to the southward; 



QUEL AN BAY POINT CUELLO. 



83 



off the bay there is an islet, inside of which there are 20 
fathoms of water. The bay can be used by vessels await- 
ing the change of tide. 

On doubling point Quelan, keeping along the outside of ^ u n e e 1 £ ncoveand 
the ridge, is Quelan cove. Its entrance is about \ mile wide, 
but the shores on either side should not be approached 
nearer than 200 yards ; at that distance there are 3 fathoms, 
and, in mid-channel, 13 fathoms of water. The cove is 
about f of a mile long, and has about the same widtk, but 



along 



the western shore, J mile out, there is but little 



water ; in all other parts there is good anchorage in 4^ to 8 
fathoms. In its NW. angle is a narrow inlet, which can ouly 
be used by boats. There are several houses surrounded by 
cleared land ; the population is Indian. In 1835 the surround- 
ing country was very thickly populated. To the westward 
the land rises suddenly to 200 feet, and is thickly wooded. 

On the north coast, about 1 mile to the westward of the Queianbay. 
cove, is a small bay called Quelan bay ; in it there is good 
anchorage in from 9 to 12 fathoms; off its entrance is a 
small island. It can be approached within 200 yards; in- 
side of that the water shoals rapidly from 9 to 3 fathoms. 

In the Tranque channel the flood runs along and around Tides - 
the points, then across, in the direction of the north shore, 
outside of the small island; inside of it there is very little 
current. In the narrowest part of the channel, during 
neaps, it runs at least 4 knots along the points of the rocks. 
Its directiou is always to the northward. 

On the Ohiloe shore, abreast of the UW. extremity of compumiet 
Tranque island, is an inlet called Compu. Neither this in- 
let nor that of Ohadmo, to the SE., has been examined. 
About 1 mile from the turn in the channel there is a small 
cove on the Ohiloe shore, which only appears practicable for 
boats. In the southern part of Tranque there are deep 
bays between the points on its southern shore. 

Point Cuello is on the coast of Ohiloe, at the entrance of Pofrt cueiio 
the channel, SE. of Tranque, which makes another elbow 
at this point. About 1 mile SE. of this point a reef of rocks 
extends from NW. to SE. for about £ mile; part of this 
reef is uncovered during low- water spring- tides. The por- 
tion with least water is marked by sea-weed, but the shoal 
extends about 200 yards on each side of it ; inside, at the 



84 



CHILOE AND ITS ARCHEPELAGO. 



Huildad inlet. 



Tides. 



Huildad shoal. 



Tides. 



distance of J mile, there is 3J fathoms, which deepens to 12 
fathoms J mile from the shore. 

The small island Ohaulin lies 4J miles from point Ouello, 
off the entrance of Huildad inlet. 

Huildad inlet is S. 15° E. of point Cuello ; its entrance is 
but 460 feet wide ; inside of the ridge, which makes out from 
the north shore, it widens to about J mile; 1 mile from 
the entrance it contracts again to 400 yards, when it opens 
into a large basin 1 to 2 miles wide and 4 miles deep. In 
the outer harbor is a good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms; the 
shores are steep-to, excepting along the indentation, which 
is behind the ridge of pebbles, and where there is shoal 
water 300 yards from the beach. In the strait between the 
two harbors there is 4J fathoms 40 yards from either shore 
and 20 fathoms in mid-channel. On the south side is a 
church with several houses. The other buildings are scat- 
tered along the shores of the harbor, but principally on the 
southern shore; the land around them is cleared. The 
ground rises in a gentle slope for about 1 mile, when it joins 
a chain of mountains about 300 feet high. If it is desirable 
to await a change in the wind or weather at Huildad, the 
outer harbor is preferable, as the NW. squalls are very 
heavy in the inner one, while the outer is entirely sheltered. 

At the entrance of the inlet the ebb tides run nearly 4 
knots during the springs, but slacken considerably inside ; 
in the strait the tides are almost as strong as at the entrance. 

Huildad shoal lies to the southward of the entrance to the 
inlet; between it and point Ohayhuao it extends 1 mile 
from the land, and is almost entirely covered by sea- weed. 
The tides on its outer edge run about 1J knots during 
springs. This shoal is terminated to the southward by a 
long stony reef, which commences J mile from point Ohay- 
huao, and extends to the SB. Several of these rocks un- 
cover at low water 1 mile from the point, and during spring- 
tides the entire reef to the outer rocks is dry. There is a 
passage between its southern extremity and the NE. ex- 
tremity of Oaylin island, in which there is deep water close 
to the reef, In this channel the flood sets to the eastward 
across the reef at least 3 knots at springs ; after passing the 
reef it meets the outside tide coming from the southward. 



CAYLIN, LAYTEC AND COLITA ISLANDS. 



85 



Caylin, 



, \jayiin, Laytec. 
and Colita islands 



Between point Chayhuao and San Pedro passage is 
deep bay, bordered by Caylin, Laytec, and Oolita islands. 
To the KW. of the latter-, on Chiloe, is the small cove Yalad. 

Caylin is 5 miles long NW. and SE., and about 3 miles c&yhn. 
wide; its northern coast is steep- to; in the channel which 
separates it from Chiloe there is no bottom with 40 fathoms. 
After doubling a low point of pebbles on its northern shore 
there is an inlet which runs in to the land about 4 miles SE., 
and terminates in three small coves. It is not a good an- 
chorage, as there are from 22 to 30 fathoms to within less 
than J mile of the head of the bay, where it suddenly shoals 
t o 11 fathoms, and 200 yards inside ; it is dry at low water. 
The SE. coast of the island is composed of cliffs about 100 
feet high ; at their foot is a beach of pebbles. A reef with 
4 fathoms at its edge extends 1£ miles from the beach. 

In 1834 an Indian village was found here, containing about 
forty houses and 250 inhabitants, who raised sheep and 
poultry. 

Laytec is 6 miles in length from NW. to SE., and 3 miles 
in width ; it is separated from Caylin by a channel 2 miles 
wide, at the southern entrance of which there are 19 fath- 
oms of water. Off its SE. point are some rocks, but no 
dangers have been lb und farther out than J mile, where 
there are 4 fathoms. Shoals with three fathoms extend 3 or 
4 miles from the SE. part of the island. 

Colita is low and thickly wooded ; it is about 4 miles long 
and 1J wide. The channel between it and Chiloe is very 
narrow, and probably offers no passage for vessels. Behind 
this island the land rises gradually from the beach, and 
forms a chain of hills more than 1,000 feet high. The pas- 
sage between Colita and Laytec is 1J miles wide. The tide 
runs about 1 knot in the channels to the northward of these 
islands. 

Five miles south of Colita is point Yatec, the northern 
point of the entrance to San Pedro, of which a description 
has been given. 



Laytec. 



Colita 



CHAPTER IV. 

COAST OF THE CONTINENT OPPOSITE CHILOE. 
Variation from 19° 03' to 19° 38' easterly, in 1876; increasing annually about V 30". 

Taking up the description of the coast of the continent 
opposite to Chiloe and bordering the gulfs of Ancud and 
Corcovado — 

paruaor Parga To the eastward of point Oorouel is Parga bay, entirely 
open to the southward, but sheltered against NW. winds ; 
it should therefore be used only by vessels waiting for a 
favorable opportunity to pass through the strait of Ohacao. 
Its shores are steep-to, and thickly wooded; 1J miles 
from the beach there are 35 fathoms of water ; but 3 miles 
from point Ooronel, near point Tique, the breakers extend 
J mile from the beach, and the shoal continues along the 
shore to the southern part of point Auque. At that point 
a dangerous spit, f mile long, makes to the SE. into the 
Abtao channel. The dangerous eddies between points 
Chilen and Tique, called the Raya de Tique, have been 
already mentioned. 

Abtao island. Abtao island is 7 miles to the eastward of point Ooronel ; 
it forms a narrow ridge, about 3 miles long and 766 yards 
extreme width. The northwest part is the highest; it ends 
in Pilquen hill, 155 feet above the sea. This is the only 
spot on the island where fresh water can be found ; from it 
the ground falls, but rises again on the southern part of the 
island. In the SW. the island terminates in a long, low, 
and very narrow tongue of land, named point Quilque. 
From the NW. point some rocks make out about 400 yards, 
close to which there are 12 fathoms, and, J mile to the 
northeast, 30 fathoms ; banks make out from the E. and 
SE. extremities of Abato, called Huenuhuapi and Nahuel- 
huapi; the latter projects about 1 mile, and is covered with 
weeds; at its edge there are 5 fathoms. The bank is pro- 
longed, parallel to the shore, to point Quilque, and from 
thence it extends § mile to the westward. On the channel 
side the water is clear 200 yards to the. north of point 
Quilque. 



ABTAO CHANNEL 87 

Tbe channel which separates Abtao from the continent is Abtao channel, 
narrow, but there is sufficient room for any vessel to work. 
At its western entrance attention mast be given to the 
bank which surrounds point Quilque, and also to that which 
makes out from the continent, and is uncovered at all tides. 
On entering the channel from the strait, run for the hill 
which overlooks Abtao to the south, leaving point Quilque 
a little to starboard ; the clear part of the chanuel is not 
more than J mile wide. Abtao must be kept distant not 
more than 400 nor less than 200 yards ; coasting along its 
inner side, there is from 9j to 20 fathoms of water. The 
continent must not be approached under any pretext until 
the northern part of point Auque, the eastern extremity of 
the continent, bears west. Between this point and point 
Lilihue, on the northern part of Abtao, the channel is only 
J mile wide, but it is clean on either side. At its end, 
between the hamlet Ghallahue and Pilquen hill, it is a little 
less than £ mile wide. 

Vessels can anchor in this chanuel at two points: first, C iSbul bta ° ° r 
at the entrance, a little inside of and to the northward of 
point Quilque, in 13J fathoms, sandy bottom close to the 
island; second, at port Abtao, off the entrance, in 14£ 
fathoms 400 yards from the shore, point Ghallahue bearing 
N. This bay can hold a large number of vessels. In its 
NW. corner there is a watering-place; point Auque is sur- 
mounted by a look-out tower. The shores of the island 
uncover at low water 110 to 166 yards. Small vessels can 
be beached. 

From Abtao channel the coast runs for about 3 miles W. hu ^ ve of CoUi " 
by X., and then again to the westward, forming a deep bay; 
at its end, betweeu yjoints Peuque and Curaco, it has a 
width of 1 mile, and vessels can anchor in 25f fathoms, 
muddy bottom, and be sheltered against all except easterly 
winds. This cove is called Oollihue. From the end of the 
cove the coast trends about E. by S. for 7 miles to point 
San Antouio, at the western entrance of San Antonio chan- 
nel, which separates the island Quihua from the continent. 

Lagartija island, a little more than 1J miles XE. of point Ca £a S^oUciwi 
Hneuuhuapi, is a rounded peak with a gentle slope to the island - 
NW., and high steep banks on the rest of its contour ; it is 
a little more than 400 feet in diameter and about 55 high. 



88 THE COAST OPPOSITE CH1LOE. 

The upper part is wooded, and the NW. part abounds in 
strawberries and potatoes. It is surrounded by a bed of 
pebbles, which is covered at high tide, excepting at the N. 
point, where a narrow ridge remains dry ; on this side, the 
island can be approached within 400 yards. Off the SE. 
extremity of Lagartija is a shoal full of rocks and covered 
with sea-weed, which extends along the SE. and S. shore 
of the island at a distance of 2 miles. The outer rocks are 
called Cola bank, South bank, and Medio bank ; they are 
divided by deep channels from the main bank, and are 
covered by l*jr and 2 J fathoms at mean tide. 

The main shoal terminates at the NE. extremity of the 
island ; between it and the main land are 33 fathoms, bottom 
sand and rock. There are no dangers. 
Buoys. Between Abtao and the banks of Oorva, the tide runs 1J 

to 3 knots. The channel known as the Lagartija channel 
is about 1,310 yards wide, and has been marked by cylin- 
drical iron buoys, painted red. 

The first buoy is on the SE. extremity of the reef which 
extends from the island of Abtao, in 3 fathoms water at low 
tide, with the following bearings: 

Point Nahuelhuahi, on Abtao, bears X. 39° W. ; and the 
middle of the island Carva, N. 42° E. 

The second buoy is placed on Medio bank, in 2 J fathoms 
water at low tide, with the following bearings : 

Point Huenuhuapi, or eastern extremity of Abtao, bears 
N. 68° W. ; the middle of Carva, X. 34° E. 

According to the pilots,*there is a rock, with 2 fathoms of 
water over it, on the bank del Medio of Lagartija channel, 
164 yards S. 19° W. of the buoy which marks the bank. 
The depth in the channel varies from 30 to 55 fathoms, and 
the bottom is of sand and rock. 
Lami banks. The western edge of the Lami bank is a little less than 2 
miles from Lagartija, bat the distance between the banks 
off this island and Lami is only 1,090 yards. These banks, 
several of which are always dry, are 2 miles long in an east 
and west direction, and 1 mile north and south. They are 
intersected by deep channels, through which the tide runs 
with a velocity of 1 to 2 knots; some portion of them is 
covered by sea- weed. It is said that they contain an 



QUIHUA ISLAND. 



Quihua island. 



excellent spring of fresh water, which the coasters prefer to 
that found on the neighboring islands. The dry portions 
have the following names : The western, Glial; the middle? 
Cailin; and the eastern, Quihua. They are formed of sand 
and rock. 

The passage between Lami and Lagartija banks is clean, 
having from 10 to 30 fathoms. 

The channel which separates Lami banks from Quihua 
island is a little less than 1 mile wide, with about 26 fathoms 
in mid-channel. 

Quihua is a large and rugged island, separated from the 
continent by a long, sinuous, and narrow branch of the >ea, 
called San Antonio. It is deep at the entrance, having 
about 14J fathoms ; it runs first to the northward, then SE., 
when its breadth diminishes ; its shores approach each 
other, and the width at Quetrue is but 328 yards; at this 
point the channel is for J mile dry at nearly all tides. From 
the estuary of Quetrue it takes the name San Bafaei, and 
empties into Caicaen channel, where it is only 2 feet deep 
and 328 yards wide, and is ouly navigable for boats during 
high water. The tides enter at both ends and lose them- 
selves in the numerous estuaries, the principal one of which 
is Quetrue, into which that of Tilao empties. It is supposed 
that the tides have formed this channel by gradually 
eating away the neck by which Quihua was connected with 
the continent. Similar changes have taken place at San 
Augustin, on the coast of Contao, and south of the island 
Huar. 

The portion south of Quihua is clean ; the beach uncovers 
about 500 feet. To the east of its southern point, called 
Ohuyehua, there is a large single rock of about 328 cubic 
feet, called San Pedro. It is at the extremity of the low- 
water mark, and is an object of superstition to the natives ; 
near it there are about 8 fathoms of water. 

Tabon island, the southernmost of all the group belonging Taoon island. 
to Eeloncavi sound, is 5J miles long from east to west, and 
about 19 miles in circumference. It is very irregular, and 
formed of a series of detached peaks, connected by small 
ridges of pebbles, several of which are covered at high water, 
when three separate islands are formed, named, from the 






90 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

east, Lin, II to, and Pol mallei hue. The latter is so narrow 
that the high tides of the equinox again divide it into two 
islands. Tabon is completely cleared of wood, and only 
apple-trees are seen around the houses. Lin is 12 feet high, 
and Ilto 157. The coves El Ded, Lin, and Ilto are formed 
by them ; the latter affords an excellent anchorage for ves- 
sels of any tonnage. 

The south coast is clear at a very short distance from the 
shore, but the northern one is very flat and dangerous. One- 
half mile NW. of point El Ded is Borudahue bank, formed 
of rocks and pebbles ; between it and the island there is 
only a passage for boats. Farther to the westward, about 
J mile WNW. of point Oholchollen, is a bank of the same 
name. Three-quarters of a mile NW. of this point is Gorvio 
bank, and Culenhue bank between the latter two. All these 
banks uncover at low water except Culenhue, which is only 
dry at neaps ; they are all covered with excellent shell- fish. 

A rock, about 1,965 feet in length, called Polmallel- 
hue, makes out to the westward of the western point of the 
island ; it is only uncovered at low-water springs. 

The beaches of the island uncover for nearly 1,000 feet. 
Between Tabon and Ghidhuapi, there is no bottom with 40 
fathoms line. 

The passage between Lami and Oorvio banks is 1J miles 
wide. There are 20 fathoms of water, pebbly bottom ; the 
tides run from J to 1 knot per hour. 

Tabon has about 350 inhabitants, who are occupied in 
agriculture and cutting timber at Oomau and Hualayhue. 
Fire wood is very scarce. 
shtaTwaterbank! About 3£ miles to the southward of Tabon is a bank of 
rocks and stones, covered by 11 feet of water. It was re- 
ported by H. B. M. S. Shearwater, and has a diameter of 
about 1 mile. 

About 10 miles to the southward of the east pointof Tabon, 
and 15 miles east of Queniao, the charts show a large bank 
of about 4 miles diameter, which uncovers at low water. It 
is probable that this bank has been confounded with the 
latter. 
Quenu island. Quenu is a small island 110 feet high, of the same charac- 
ter as Tabon, situated to the NW. of the latter. A reef of 



QUENU AND CALBUCO ISLANDS. 91 

rocks makes out to the westward of point Pinto, the western 
point of the island. It extends WSW. for £ mile, and ter- 
minates in three rocks, which only uncover at low water ; 
the bank uncovers almost entirely. Eight hundred and sev- 
enty yards from this point there are only 3 fathoms of water. 
Between this bank and Lami banks the channel is 1 mile 
wide, with 35 fathoms of water; muddy bottom. 

The passage between Quenu and Calbuco islands is clear. 
It is J mile wide, with 20 fathoms in mid-channel ; sandy 
bottom. Vessels passing through it must keep in mid-chan- 
nel, steering due east. Point Martin, the northern point of 
Quenu, is cleaner than the southern points of Calbuco, but 
it must on no account be brought to bear to the northward 
of east. 

The eastern and southeastern points of Quenu are foul to 
a distance of 330 yards ; from there the water is very deep. 
The coasts are level, excepting in the SW. and in the middle 
of the north coast, where there are some steep banks. On 
the southern point, Rumen, there is a small chapel. 

Quenu is a small, picturesque, and fertile island 3,000 yards 
long from NW. to SE., and 1,300 wide. It is almost divided 
by the unimportant estuary Puchivilo. It produces pota- 
toes, apples, grain, strawberries, and cattle; but the island 
is poor, as it is badly cultivated. It is entirely cleared of 
wood ; fire- wood is imported, and dear. 

Calbuco is a small, highly cultivated island extending 3 calbuco island. 
miles WSW. and EKE., with an average breadth of 1 mile. 
It has the same aspect as the preceding ones. In connec- 
tion with the island Quihua and the continent, it forms 
Caicaen channel, which has 20 fathoms of water at the en- 
trance, but shoals toward the outlet. At that point, between 
the town of Calbuco, point Yahuecha, and the continent, it is 
only J mile wide, with a maximum depth of 3 fathoms. The 
banks off the towu and the point reduce the navigable por- 
tion to 225 yards in width. The northeast shore of the 
island, called Pecuta, where the town is built, uncovers for a 
distance of 200 yards. Close outside of this low-water mark 
there are 6 fathoms of water, and beyond the depths increase 
to 17 and 21 fathoms. This island, with Quenu, Chidhuapi, 
Chaullin, and Puluqui, forms another and a much deeper 
channel, where the soundings are not less than 20 fathoms 



92 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE\ 

in mid-channel, and which, after passing Quenu, is 1J miles 
wide. 

Anchorage. Vessels anchor J mile K 60° E. from the town of Calbuco, 

with the northern part of point Yahuecha bearing N. 55° W., 
with the entrance of Huito inlet nearly shut in, in 15 fathoms 
of water ; bottom fine sand mixed with mud. Ballast is 
thrown overboard about 1 mile to the northward of the 
anchorage. 

Town of cai- The town of Calbuco, founded in 1602, is one of the prin- 

bucoorElFuerte. ' " r 

cipal ones of the province of Llanquihue. It has deterio- 
rated considerably since the foundation of the colony at port 
Montt. It is about 26 to 30 feet above the sea, and built on 
very uneven ground. Its comparatively large church has 
been struck by lightning, and is now in ruins. A lieutenant 
of the reserve from port Montt fills the office of subdelegate 
of the marine. The city was first founded at Eosario, on 
the N. coast of the Huito estuary, about If miles from its 
present position ; but the frequent attacks of the natives 
forced the colonists to abandon it and establish themselves 
on the island Calbuco. 
iand idhuapi iB " The island Chidbuapi is low and almost entirely under 
cultivation. Between its southern extremity and Tabon 
there is no bottom with 40 fathoms line; between its west- 
ern part and Quenu the average depth is 30 fathoms; a bank 
runs out about J mile from its SE. point and obstructs half 
of the channel which separates it from Puluqui, which is 
but J mile in width. Along Puluqui island, at a distance 
of 200 yards, there is not less than 7 fathoms. The island 
is from 80 to 100 feet high and is divided into two parts 
called Lacao and Ahuenu ; it is about 2£ miles long in a 
NW. and SE. direction; its maximum breadth being nearly 
1 mile. The ground is very much cut up and the shores are 
alternatively low and high ; there are isolated rocks 440 yards 
from its W. point. The island has been cleared of wood 
and no cattle are raised on it. The population consists of 
about 200 persons. There is a chapel on its SE. part. 
Puluqui island. Puluqui island is nearly 7 miles long from NW. to SE., 
and averages in breadth about 3 miles. It is the eastern- 
most and largest island between the strait of Chacao and 
Eeloncavi sound. On its eastern shore there are a few spots 
of cleared land, but on the other side, where the land is 



PULUQUI ISLAND. 93 

lower and more swampy, these are more numerous. From 
the south point, which is low, the ground rises in a gentle 
slope to a chain of hills about 230 feet high, which runs 
across the island in a N. and S. direction. 

The south coast, between points Manao and Ceutinela, is 
shoal, to a distance of 550 yards, and entirely open to winds 
from east to west by the south. Manao, the SW. extremity, 
is about 2i miles from Oentinela, the SE. extremity. A 
little to the westward of the latter the coast trends to the 
northward and forms the estuary of Poza de Llaicha, which 
is 4J miles long from N. to S. and communicates with the 
sea by a narrow channel which is dry at neap-tides. This 
estuary can only be used by small vessels or boats, although 
larger ones can enter it at high water : in the center it is 
very deep. To the westward of this inlet on the hill which 
overlooks the chapel of Llaicha is a rich graphite mine of 
excellent quality, though a little black. 

From point Ceutinela the coast first treuds N. to point 
Perhue, the eastern extremity of the island, thence NNW. 
to point San Ramon. This entire coast, 7 miles long, is 
called Pollollo ; it is overlooked by steep and wooded cliffs 
from 180 to 220 feet high. It has no good anchorages. The 
beaches of large pebbles are dry at low water to a distance 
of 330 to 430 feet ; beyond that they are steep-to. 

Point San Ramon forms the NE. aud N. extremity of the 
island; its northern part is separated from Tautil island by 
the pass of Tautil ; near this point, which is surmounted 
by a chapel in ruins, is the lagoon San Ramon, whose level 
is 56 feet above the sea ; it is 328 yards to southward of the 
chapel and 433 yards from the sea; it lies in a crescent- 
shaped hollow whose points turn to the NW. Its shores 
are swampy and covered with thick undergrowth, which 
runs up the hills from 100 to 165 feet, in the midst of which 
some cultivated spots and dwellings are scattered. Its out- 
let is to the SW. This lagoon is of recent formation; its 
water is fresh and deep, and shells are found in it. 

From point Ramon, the western part of Puluqui forms 
the eastern shore of the Calbuco channel ; in it there are 
four estuaries; the northern oue is named Puluqui, the 
next Machil or Quuiched, which opens between point Pu- 
luqui to the north aud point Machil to the south. In its 



94 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

center is a large bank, which uncovers about 4 feet at low- 
water springs. This estuary is without importance; behind 
it is the highest point of the island, an elevation of 230 feet. 
Point Maehil, on which there is a chapel, is the north 
point of the estuary of Ohauquiar, which can be entered by 
vessels of all sizes. It has 14 fathoms of water at the en- 
trance and then shoals toward the eastern extremity, where 
there are 10 fathoms. The bottom is of small stones mixed 
with mud ; to the south it is limited by point Ohechil, 135 
feet high and entirely clear. 

The estuary of Chope opens between point Ohechil and 
point Chope. The latter point is steep-to and about 100 
feet high; this lagoon is the southernmost of the four; it is 
about 178 yards wide at the entrance and extends a little 
over 2 miles S.37°E., contracting gradually in width; at its 
end is the small chapel of Chope, and a little to the east- 
ward the small lagoon of Chipue ; the hills which surround 
the lagoon are strewn with houses and cultivation; this es- 
tuary is deep and without importance. 

From point Chope the coast of Puluqui runs SE. for 4 
miles, to point Mauao, forming the Chidhuapi channel. 

Puluqui has about 2,100 inhabitants, which are occupied 
in fishing, in cutting wood, and in cultivating potatoes, 
wheat, flax, and grass. The coasts of this island are formed 
of alluvial stones, and show large deposits from the sea. 
The island is thickly- wooded, the inhabitants are scattered 
over it, and there is no center of population. The agent of 
the government lives at Ohechil. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Perhue, at 12 11 56 m . 

chauiim ?siaud. Chaullin is a small island situated opposite the estuary of 
Huito, and about 1 mile to the NE. of the town of Oalbuco ; 
its circumference is about § mile ; it is low, scantily wooded, 
and abounds in shell-fish. The want of fresh water prevents 
the cultivation of this fertile island. 

point Yahue- The hilly point Yahuecha lies between the town of Oal- 
buco and the entrance of the estuary of Huito. 
Huito estuary. Huito estuary is about 4 miles long ; its breadth does not 

exceed £ mile at any point; it has a semicircular shape, 
with a funnel-shaped entrance ; its depth, 17 fathoms at the 
entrance, diminishes gradually to a narrows, where there is 
but 3^ fathoms in mid-channel, 26 feet from the northern 



HUITO ESTUARY. 



95 



shore. At this point where the southern shore makes out a 
little, the Chilians barred one-half of the channel during 
the war with Spaiu. The entire breadth is about J mile 
the navigable part is 650 feet. This artificial bank 



has 



increased ; it is covered by cholgas, for which the inhabi- 
tants fish. 

Farther iu, the breadth and depth of the estuary in- 
crease again ; § mile from the neck the breadth is 1£ miles, 
and the depth 12 fathoms ; bottom coarse sand ; this is the 
anchorage. Farther in again, the depth remaius between 
5J and 6% fathoms to near its end; the bottom is fine sand 
and mud. Water can be taken in at the many springs, or 
from the torrent at the bottom of the estuary. This estuary 
is gloomy, thickly-wooded, and bordered by steep hills. 
There are some few cultivated spots, near which huts are 
built. Northward, and uear the neck, is the Rosario hamlet, 
consisting of a few small houses around a chapel. 

The Chile-Peruvian squadron took refuge here during the 
war with Spain, and built some fortifications on each side 
of the entrance and at the narrows. In the year 1871, 
some traces of the stone houses and fortifications remained, 
though everything was covered with vegetation. Vessels 
can anchor at the entrance to the inlet in 17 fathoms, bottom 
fine sand. 

It is high water, full and change, at l h 22 m ; rise from 16 
to 22 feet. The tide runs with a velocity of 1 mile to the 
northward of point Yahuecha, and from 2 to 3 miles at the 
narrows. Duriug springs it reaches a velocity of 5 miles. 
Off Calbuco the strength is about f mile. The flood sets to 
the northward and the ebb to the southward. 

About 1 mile NE. of point Pelu, the northern point of 
Huito estuary, is point Metreucue, near which there is a 
small dry rock; around this, Rulo estuary opens, having at 
its entrance a width of 1J miles, its depth being nearly 2 
miles. It is surrounded by hills of moderate height, which 
are cultivated. This bay is somewhat shoal ; there are :4 
fathoms at the entrance and about 3 at its head ; the in- 
terior lagoon is almost entirely, dry. On entering the 
estuary, vessels must keep close to point Metreucue to 
avoid the bank of San Agustin, which makes out from the 
NE. point of the bay. At this point there is a small hamlet, 



Tides. 



Rulo estuary. 



96 



THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 



San Agustin. 



Tides. 



Tautil island. 



The 
Tautil. 



with an unfinished chapel : the bank runs to the 8W., is 
dry for about 260 feet, and projects 230 feet farther under 
water in the same direction; at its edge there are 3 fathoms 
of water. 

Sau Agustin is a small district containing 660 inhabi- 
tants. Behind it is a series of lagoons, and the ground 
rises to an elevation of 230 feet. 

It is high water, full and change, at l h 4 m . At neaps the 
rise and fall is 12 feet, and during springs 20. 

The island of Tautil lies between points San Ramon and 
San Agustin, the passage between the continent and the 
northern extremity of Puluqui, where it forms two channels. 

The channel on the side of the continent is narrow and 
shoal, and remains dry on its southern portion from half- 
tide. No vessel can pass through it. A tongue of sand 
and pebbles unites this island with San Agustin. The re- 
mainder of the channel is formed by low and stony beaches, 
and at its northern entrance there it a bank of detached 
rocks, which is awash at low water and must be avoided by 
boats which may attempt this passage . 

The southern channel, which is between the island and 
point San Eamon, is deep, and is used by steamers and 
also by sailing-vessels with fair winds. This channel, 
named El Paso de Tautil, is hardly 730 yards wide. 
strait of Tautil trends K 53° E. and S. 53° W; it is about 1,000 
yards long, and has a mean breadth of 105 feet. The ground 
is level and favorable for agriculture ; it is about 72 feet 
high 5 its western coast is cut up, and near it are many de- 
tached rocks ; it contains drinkable water and several huts. 

The coasts of the island are flat and rocky. The shores 
on the eastern part uncover to a distance of 200 yards, and 
on the NW. extremity 335 yards. To the SB., in the direc- 
tion of San Ramon, or in the narrowest part of the channel, 
a bank makes out about 328 yards to the middle of the 
channel. At its edge are 3 fathoms at low tide; farther 
out the depth increases to 5 and 5J fathoms. Vessels pass- 
ing through this channel must keep closer to Puluqui than 
to Tautil. 

To the NE of the northern extremity of Tautil a reef 
makes out 483 yards ; at its edge there is 3 fathoms at low 
water. The reconnoissance of Captain Gormaz proved that 






THE GULF OF RELONCAVI. 

the banks of Tautil extend out a less distance than the 
charts indicate. 

In taking this strait a vessel should pass one-third of the 
breadth of the channel nearer to point San Ramon than to 
Tautil, and steer for the Caicura islets, at the entrance of 
the estuary of Eeloncavi, if they are visible ; otherwise the 
southern part of Huar island must be kept open. This 
course must be kept until points Huatral and Huelmo are 
opened, when a course can be taken for the Huar channel. 

If coming from the northward, a vessel should be kept in 
the middle of Huar channel, having Tautil 1 mile distant. 
When point San Ramon is on with point Metrencue, take 
this bearing as a course and the strait will be passed in 
5 fathoms water. It is high water, full and change, in the 
strait at l h 7 m . Rise and fall varies between 10 and 22 feet. 
The velocity is between 1J and 3 miles. The current, which 
follows the direction of the channel, changes about 25 min- 
utes before slack water. In this archipelago there is con- 
siderable difference between the tides by day and those of 
the nights, amounting to nearly 2 feet. This phenomenon 
was observed during summer, and it is believed that it is 
reversed during the winter. Mr. Simpson observed the 
same in the archipelago of Chonos. 

The gulf of Reloncavi has three entrances. The first is Guif of Reion- 
the strait of Tautil just described j the second is between 
the island Queullin and Nao islet ; the principal one, how- 
ever, is the strait between Puluqui and Queullin, which is 2 
miles wide. The gulf of Reloncavi extends 20 miles to the 
northward, and is about 12 miles across from east to west, 
and very deep. In the strait between Puluqui and Que- 
ullin there is no bottom with 60 fathoms, and no bottom in 
the gulf with 120 fathoms, except in the vicinity of the 
islands and banks. Between Huar and the Caicura islets 
the depth varies between 140 and 1G0 fathoms. Generally 
speaking, vessels anchor under the lee of the islands or along 
the coast on either side according to the wind. The tide 
runs from 1 to 2 J knots in the strait between Puluqui and 
Queullin, according to the age of the moon ; in the narrow- 
est part there are some eddies. 

Huar island, on the west side of the gulf, is over 300 feet Haar island, 
high, and is separated from the continent by the Huar pass- 
7 C 



98 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

age, which is 1 mile wide. Its 1ST W. point is formed by the 
small island Malliiia, united to it by a narrow bank of peb- 
bles, which uncovers at one-third ebb-tide. Malliiia rises 
gradually toward the northward, where it attains its maxi- 
mum height of 72 feet and terminates in a cliff. It is inhab 
ited and cultivated. From its NE. part a bank makes out 
which is dry at low water. It abounds in shell-fish and is the 
rendezvous of the fishermen of the vicinity. 

On the other side of Malliiia is the roadstead of Quetru- 
lauquen, which is open to northward. At the end of this es- 
tuary there is a nearly circular lagoon of about 547 yards 
diameter; this communicates with the gulf by the estuary 
of Quetru, into which it emj^ties ; this outlet is encumbered 
with fishing-stakes. This lagoon is separated from one of 
the estuaries of the south by a narrow tongue of land 433 
yards wide ; the northern part of Huar is a well-defined 
peninsula. 

Point Cuervos, 120 feet high, forms the NE. part of the 
island; behind it, 217 yards from the beach, is a small la- 
goon, which runs from E. to W. 557 yards, with a mean 
breadth of 213 yards. It is 26 feet above the level of the 
sea, and the water is fresh. 

Point Alfaro, on which there is a small chapel, is 128 feet 
high, and fhe western cliffs of the island, called Del Pedra- 
gal, are 250 feet high. 

Huar is naturally divided in three parts by the estuaries 
of Chipue, Chanqui, Ohenquohue or Ohucahua ; it forms the 
three districts of Quetrulauquen, of Alfaro, and of Ohucahua. 

Huar was colonized in 1610, and has more than 1,000 in- 
habitants ; Ohucahua seems to be the principal place. The 
inhabitants are occupied in fishing for shell-fish, which 
abound on the coasts. They cut on the island the laurel, 
the luma, and on the opposite coast the alerce and the cy- 
press ; they cultivate flax, corn, and grass. The earthquake 
of 1837 lowered the ground of the island. 

It has been asserted that there is a reef to the KE. of 
Huar island which is dry during the low water of the equi- 
noctial springs ; it is not marked on the charts ; M. Gormaz 
found, 2£ miles NE. of Huar, 74 fathoms of water, muddy 
bottom. This officer does not believe in the existence of 
this reef. During clear weather the isolated mountains of 
Osorno and Oalbuco can be easily distinguished from Huar. 



PUCARI AND ROSARIO SHOALS — HUAR PASSAGE. 



99 



Pucari and Ro- 
ario shoals. 



Point Huatral. 



Janequeo bank is said to be situated 4J miles E. \ S. from Janequeo bank. 
the SE. point of Huar. La Covadonga searched for it with- 
out success j in the position indicated 122 fathoms were 
found. 

The Pucari shoal is 1 mile S. 15 E. of point Blanca, the 
southeastern part of Huar ; its center is 9 feet above low- 
water springs. The western part of this bank is formed of 
small, rounded pebbles, and the eastern of large pebbles 
with scattering rocks of moderate size, which do not uncover 
at ordinary low water. The bank is 517 yards long, NW. by 
W. and SE. by E., with a variable breadth of from 163 to 
217 yards. This bank is covered with shell-fish, which are 
caught by the inhabitants of Huar. 

Captain Gormaz thinks, with the people of this place, that 
the Rosario bank, which is supposed to lie 1 mile SSE. from 
Pucari, does not exist. 

Point Huatral forms the entrance to Huar passage on the 
side of the continent $ it is J mile KB. of Tautil. The coast 
between Huatral and Huelmo is rocky and shoal ; the former 
is level at its foot and rises in shelves to the height of 260 
feet ; it appears to be the highest elevation in the vicinity. 

Huelmo bay, to the northward of the point of the same 
name, is between it and Huelmo island j the largest vessel 
can enter it. The surrounding hills attain an elevation of 
180 to 230 feet, and some streams of excellent water run 
from them. The shores are low and rocky ; there are some 
houses, and to the west is the chapel of Huelmo. 

Huelmo island is 3 miles N. 9° W. from point Huatral. It 
is 1,317 yards long, NW, and SE.; its mean breadth is 383 
yards. At low water it is connected with the continent on the 
west side ; sloops and large boats can pass through the chan- 
nel on high water. The northern extremity is high and 
wooded ; the south coast is more even ; from it a chain of 
reefs extends to the eastward for J mile and ends in a dark- 
colored rock called Lobos, which is dry at half-tide. Between 
it and the coast is another rock above water, called Huelmo ; 
it is of a whitish color, inclined to the westward, and is al- 
ways uncovered ; it resembles a boat under sail. 

When after clearing the straits of Tautil the points Huatral Huar passage 
and Huelmo are opened, vessels can enter the Huar passage 



Huelmo bay. 



Huelmo island. 



100 



THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 



Malliua. 



Ilque or 
quen bay. 



Ti 



Point Ilque. 



Anchor: 
Huenquellahue. 



Maillen island 



between the island of that name and point Huatral. The 
channel is clear to the northward of Tautil. 

Vessels can anchor in the passage on the west coast of 
Huar island off the elevated promontory, which is Mallina 
island, about ^ mile from the coast, in 13 fathoms, bottom 
sand. 

As all the bearings of these coasts are not well determined, 
it must be remembered that when Huar passage is entered 
from the northward the island Queullin should be seen. 

Point Oapacho is directly to the northward of Huelmo is- 
land. The unexplored bay of Ilque is between Oapacho and 
Ilque points ; its shores are shoal 225 yards from the beach, 
especially on the west side, the rocks of which show as islets 
at high water and as large rocky banks during low water ; 
it is surrounded by hills, from 200 to 215 feet high, on which 
are some houses ; the chapel of Ilque is at the head of this 
bay. 

It is presumed that Ilque point was confounded with 
point Oapacho on the old charts ; it lies about 2 miles H". 
15° W. of the latter; is not steep to, and rises to a height 
of 200 feet. A chain of rocks, uncovered at low water, 
extends from its eastern part for about J mile ; a bank is 
reported to exist between this point and the island of Capira- 
huapi, on which, during the tides of the equinoxes and in 
calm weather, the bottom can be seen. 
of To the northward of point Ilque a large bay opens, which 
has point Panitao for its northern limit ; its shores are slop- 
ing and covered with bowlders ; back of it are small hills 
230 feet high ; they form a table-land, wooded, inhabited 
and cultivated in spots ; they limit to the east the extremity 
of the prolongation of the central valley of Chile, which 
ends on the north coast of the strait of Ohacao. The open- 
ing of the bay is 3J miles wide and nearly 2 miles long; in 
its SW. part is the anchorage of Huenquellahue. 

Point Panitao, which is low at its extremity, rises rapidly 
to the height of 230 feet ; it is steep-to, except to the north, 
where a bank makes out 1 mile, on which there is very 
little water. This point forms one side of the Maillen chan- 
nel. To the southward is the chapel of Santo Domingo. 

Maillen island is formed of regular hills, whose maximum 
height is 224 feet ; on its western part, which is called point 



MAILLEN CHANNEL. 101 

Alta, or Pucheguin, Mailleu is about 3 miles long from east 
to west, and about 2f miles wide north and south. South- 
ward of point Alta is a cove, called El Surgidero, which is 
open to the westward and subject to eddies, but vessels can 
anchor in it temporarily ; to the SE. of this cove is Cande- 
laria estuary, open to the SW., the principal one of the 
island ; at its head are two chapels and a stream of water, 
the only one on Maillen ; it is formed by the collection of 
several small brooks, and is used to drive a mill; J mile to 
the SE. of Candelaria is point del Banco, the southern point 
of the island; next is point San Pedro, its eastern extrem- 
ity; and, finally, to the north is the cove of Puqueldon, 
from which a reef runs toward Teuglo ; it is about f mile 
long, bottom coarse sand, mixed with shells and pebbles; 
this reef is, however, outside of the line which the steamers 
take when passing through the Maillen channel. 

Maillen has been inhabited since 18G8, and has at present 
about 900 inhabitants. Its shores are formed by large 
stones and rocks of greenstone ; the soil is of alluvial 
deposits, which cover the granite completely. Shell-fish 
are extremely abundant, and form part of the nourishment 
of the people, who go in the summer to cut wood in the 
estuary of Eeloncavi and at the foot of the Calbuco. 

Oapirahuapi island is situated to the southward of the oapirahuapi i&i- 
point del Banco, from which it is separated by a channel 
730 yards wide, which cannot be used even by boats at 
low water, as then the island is connected with Maillen by 
banks of sand and stone; during high water, boats can pass 
through without difficulty. 

Oapirahuapi is 1,000 yards long from ls T W. toSE.; its 
western extremity is formed by a cliff 55 feet high ; its 
opposite extremity is a gentle slope, undulating, and covered 
by prairies, on which numerous herds graze; it has two 
fresh-water springs; its shores are formed of pebbles and 
large stones. The NW. point, called Blanca, is level ; 
owes its name to the oyster-shells which cover the beach. 
To the northward aud south-eastward of the island the 
water is shoal. 

The channel between Maillen and point Panitao is clear, M aiUei. nnel ° f 
and deep enough for all classes of vessels. The bank which 
is indicated on the chart as extending 1 mile to the west- 



102 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

ward of Maillen does not exist ; the bottom is irregular, 
bat the least depth, reduced to the lowest tide, is 5J fathoms. 
Vessels should not approach too close to the shores ; the 
least distance between which is at points Alta and Panitao, 
1,073 yards. Panitao and Maillen banks are outside of the 
natural route of vessels. 

Tides. The strength of the tides in this channel varies from J to 

1 knot per hour; the ebb is the strongest; the flood is 
sometimes insensible. 

Bay of chin- The bay of Chinquiu is formed by point Panitao and the 
south coast of the island Tenglo ; it is tolerably deep, but 
there is very little water J- mile from the land ; at its north- 
ern extremity is Chinquiu islet, which forms a small harbor 
in its western part, where a small, unimportant brook emp- 
ties. In the center of the bay, near the continent, is Caul- 
lahuapi islet, which is connected with the coast by banks 
which are dry at low water. 

i s i a n d s and Tenglo is the northern island of the gulf of Eeloncavi ; it 
pannes >n- . g ^ m ji es t the northward of Maillen, is a little over 2 
miles long NNE. and SSW., and has a mean breadth of 870 
yards ; it is formed of hills of moderate height, whose ele- 
vation increases to the north cape, which is 260 feet high 
it is inhabited and cultivated. 

The channel which it forms with the continent is narrow 
in two places it is less than 1,000 yards; in its center 
to the SE. of the digue, its maximum breadth does not ex 
ceed 559 yards. At the first turn, coming from the N., (that 
is to southward of the digue,) there are If fathoms at low 
water ; this increases to 3 and 4 fathoms at the second turn. 
From thence to the southern entrance the coast of the island 
is stony; low points and covered rocks run out from it ; the 
beaches are obstructed by fishing weirs, which are con- 
structed of stones and of stakes interwoven with the 
branches of trees ; they are regular reservoirs of fish. The 
coast of the continent is clear and deep. The shoal water 
and the sudden turns of the channel only allow of its navi- 
gation by small vessels. 

A bank runs out to the SE. about ^ of a mile from the 
NE. of the island ; at its edge are 2 fathoms, sandy bottom ; 
a little to the south and SE. of this bank the depth is from 
5 to 25 fathoms. The vessels which unload before going to 



PUERTO MONTT. 103 

the digue anchor here. The bank of the point uncovers for 
about 328 yards at low-water springs ; the coast of the con- 
tinent is also shoal for some 300 yards off shore, which must 
be kept in view when wishing to enter or leave the anchor- 
age of the digue. 

Just before reaching the ^E. point of the island, there is Anchorage. 
a small digue ; at its entrance there is 7 fathoms of water, 
muddy bottom, and close alongside of the shore there is 2 
fathoms. Vessels should anchor to the northward of the 
digue, in 4 fathoms, about 150 yards from the shore. Vessels 
of moderate size must moor head and stern, as there is no 
room to swing. The anchorage is excellent, and sheltered 
from all directions. The bottom is a gently-inclined plane, 
formed of pebbles, muddy sand, and shells. The beach of 
the continent uncovers for nearly 166 yards. 

Tenglo is the port of Melipulli ; the steamers of the P. S. IS. 
Company always anchor there and repair their vessels ; they 
are obliged, however, to haul in ; a good dock could be built 
with little labor. 

To the NE. of the passage of Tenglo is the important Puerto Montt or 

Melipulli.* 

town Puerto Montt, the capital of the province of Llanqui- 
hue, and also the northern point of the gulf of Reloncavi. 
The shore is generally low, and uncovers from 166 to 266 
yards at low-water springs ; the northern shore is filled with 
isolated rocks ; the western is formed of small stones, and has 
some outlying rocks in front of the N. point of Tenglo island. 
The anchorage is good and sheltered against SW. winds by 
Tenglo island, but entirely open to the southward. Off the 
town is a submerged plateau, on which vessels can anchor, 
about J mile from the city, in 17 fathoms, bottom fine 
black sand, with the NE. extremity of Tenglo bearing S. 64° 
W., the western extremity of the town N. 34° W., and the 
cemetery N. 76° E. This plateau is very steep-to, especially 
on the SE.; it must be approached with caution, as the 
beach uncovers for a long distance at low- water springs; 
the water then deepens suddenly to 7, 10, and 14 fathoms, 
and, if the anchor is dropped in less than 14 fathoms, vessels 
with a long scope of chain are apt to touch on the beach 
with a south wind. 

* Melipulli, " four hills." The Chilians often use this name for Puerto 
Montt. 



104 



THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 



Tides. 



Lake 
hue. 



To be in good position on the bank, the low, pebbly beach 
at the entrance of the small harbor of Tenglo must be in 
line with the black house situated to the south of it. 

When the wind is from the south boats cannot land on 
the beach, but it is said that the wind does not endanger 
vessels at anchor. 
Light. A small light is shown from the center of the town, visi- 

ble about 3 miles. 
Description. The town of Puerto Montt, founded in 1853, is 15 feet 
above the water, and in front of some hills of a very remark- 
able formation, which shelter the town from the N. Its lo- 
cation was formerly swampy, and thickly wooded; now there 
are many fine houses surrounded by verandas ; the streets 
are straight, and about 65 feet wide ; the hills surrounding 
the town have been cleared, and are covered with vegeta- 
tion. Puerto Montt has 2,500 inhabitants, of which 1,000 
are Germans, who are the principal colonists of this part of 
Chile, and they agree well with the natives. Owing to the 
growing importance of Puerto Montt and its surrounding 
country, the territory has been erected into a province under 
the name of Llanquihue. A fine plaza, churches of different 
denominations, a library, schools, machinery for distilling 
liquors, breweries, tanneries, and machinery for making oil, 
indicate the prosperity which the industry and intelligence 
of the inhabitants has created. Fresh meat can be bought 
at low rates, as also vegetables and fresh water. There are 
two pilots. It has a ship-yard for repairing, and capacity 
for building vessels of 100 tons. . 

It is high water, full and change, at Puerto Montt at 12 h 
48 m . Springs rise 18 to 20 feet, neaps 14 to 15 feet. These 
figures are averages; the tides are very irregular on account 
of the winds. The rise varies between 10 and 22 feet. . 
Lianqui- Lake Llanquihue has a circumference of about 125 miles, 
and is 8.6 miles to the northward of Puerto Montt; it is sep- 
arated from the gulf of Eeloncavi by an undulating ridge 
460 feet high. A road 9f miles long leads from Puerto 
Montt to Port Varas on the southern shore of the lake, the 
center of all the German settlements j the lake measures 
19| miles north and south and 24J east and west ; it is 138 
feet above that of the gulf of Eeloncavi, and is of great 
depth. Cox states that no bottom was found with 197 fath- 



LAKE LLANQUIHUE. 105 

oms. The winds are often so strong that navigation is in- 
terrupted. The X., S., and W. shores are low, wooded, and 
overlooked by hills covered with houses. The lake is cov- 
ered with small vessels; a steamboat of 80 horse-power 
performs the postal service between Port Montt and Yaldi- 
via. To the X. of the lake a small colony, called Port Octai, 
has been founded; the steamer stops there; this port is dif- 
ficult to enter but well sheltered. Several small rivers 
empty into the lake, which has but one outlet, the river 
Maullin, which leaves it on the SW. The eastern shore of 
this lake rises abruptly; to the XE. is the volcano Osorno, 
7,265 feet high, and to the E. Galbuco, 5,570 feet high ; they 
are separated by a swampy gorge, whose waters run into 
lake Todos los Santos ; through this gorge mount Tronador, 
with its three peaks, and farther to the north the suow-cov- 
ered peak Bonachemo can be seen. Port Varas, the south- 
ern extremity of lake Llauquihue, is in latitude 41° 19' 40" 
S. and longitude 72° 56' 11" W. 

There are two routes between Chacao strait and Port Directions be- 
tween the strait of 

Montt, one outside aud the other iuside of the islands. chacao and Port 

The one outside of the islands, to the south of Tabon 
and through the strait between Puluqui aud Queulliu, is 
very inconvenient on account of the fogs, squalls, aud rains 
which shut in the shore. Amnistia bank south of Tabon, 
and the banks in the center of the gulf of Eeloncavi, badly 
explored, and doubtfully located, are serious obstructions 
to this navigation. Sailing-vessels alone are forced to make 
this tedious passage. 

The inside route is recommended as preferable, but a 
pilot should be taken either at Ancud or Puerto Montt. 
Steamers can pass between Abtao and the contiuent, 
through the Abtao channel. The buoys recently placed 
iu the channel between Abtao and Lagartija render this 
channel preferable. They should then keep to the north- 
ward of Lagartija island and Lami bank, then through 
the opening between Quenu and Galbuco as far as El 
Fuerte; from thence along the FW, coast of Puluqui, to 
pass between this island and Tautil; then to the east- 
ward of the Tenglo and Maillen "islands through the 
Huar passage to Puerto Montt. The passage to the west- 
ward of Tenglo has an abrupt turn which a large vessel 



106 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

would find difficult to pass, but that of Maillen presents no 
inconvenience by keeping in midchannel between the shores. 

M. Gormaz gives the following instructions for going from 
the strait of Chacao to Calbuco, passing between Abtao and 
Lagartija : 

Leaving the middle of Chacao strait, steer S. G9° E. until 
Lagartija island and point Nahuelhuapi, on Abtao, bear, in 
line, N. 65° E., which will be when about f mile from point 
Quilque, on the same island ; then steer S. 85° E. until La- 
gartija bears ST. 29° E., when change the course to N. 15° 
E. until point Martin, the northern extremity of Queuu, 
bears S. 83° E., in line with point Blanca on Chidhuapi, and 
Pilquen hill on Abtao. On this course Lagartija will be 
passed within J mile and in from 5J to 27J fathoms; sand 
and shells. Steer S. 83° E. for point Martin as far as the 
entrance of Quenu passage, which will be cleared by making 
K. 85° E. or E., keeping rather nearer the shore of Quenu 
than to that of Calbuco. When the small mountain on the 
SE. part of Calbuco bears WNW. Calbuco channel is en- 
tered by steering N. 34° E., which will lead to the anchor- 
age, either off the town or in the estuary of Huito. After 
leaving Lagartija there is never less than 17 fathoms of 
water. 

The passage between Corva and the Lami banks can also 
be used, but it is not to be recommended, unless it were 
buoyed, as the landmarks are not easily distinguished, and 
it lengthens the route. 

In the paragraphs relating to these different passages all 
the details will be found ; it is always necessary to keep 
account of the tides when going through these straits. 

P o?t° a Montt W aDd Tne coast betweei1 P ort Montt and the estuary of Eelon- 
Reioncaviestuary. cav i d oes no t ff er anv convenient anchorages. Besides 

the great fall of the tide, and the rocks and cays with which 
it is studded, it is completely open to winds from 3fW. to S. 

From the cemetery at Puerto Montt the coast trends S. 
52° E. with many indentations. After the first turn is the 
Eio Chico de Pilluco, which comes from lagoons about 1£ 
miles in the interior, and 460 feet above the sea. 

To the southeastward of this river is point Peilas, 490 
feet high, which overlooks all the surrounding hills. To the 
eastward is the unimportant river Pilluco ; farther to the 



COIHUIN BASKS. 



107 



Coihuin banke. 



southward and eastward the coast falls, and forms point 
Coles or Coihuin. On all this coast there are cultivated 
spots, but the soil is poor. 

From point Coles to point Cheuquemo the coast forms a 
large cove, about 4J miles wide at the entrance ; at its head 
the land is low, swampy, and inundated by the tides for a 
considerable distance. The cove is filled with the deposits 
from Coihuin river, which empties into it. The bank com- 
mences about 2f miles from port Montt, and unites with Coi- 
huin bank off the mouth of the river. This bank extends in the 
center about 2 miles from the coast ; its outer edge is steep- 
to; on one side of a boat 2 fathoms will be obtained, and 
on the other 5J, and a little farther out 14£ fathoms. The 
upper part of the bank is of soft mud, and it only uncovers 
at low-water springs ; at high water it is entirely covered ; 
small vessels and boats pass over it ; it connects with the 
coast at low water about 1 J miles to the southward of point 
Cheuquemo. 

During high water Coihuin river is accessible from the coihuin river. 
gulf through three openings ; the estuary Tralhuempue to 
the west, that of Muermos in the center, and the mouth of 
the Coihuin to the east. To enter the river a pilot is neces- 
sary ; it is navigable for 4J miles, and is the outlet of lake 
Chapo, which is about 13| miles from the coast. 

From point Cheuquemo the wooded coast descends hardly pichi Quiiiaipe 
perceptibly for about 3 miles, as far as Quiiiaipe island, lb 
which is nearly circular, with a diameter of about 606 yards ; 
it is low, wooded, and separated from the continent by a 
narrow channel. 

Point Quiiiaipe is a little more than 2 miles from this Point Qu^pe. 
island. To the southward of it is a large cove, of the same 
name, which is dry for more than half of its extent, during 
low-water springs ; before it are two rocks detached from the 
coast, the one 550 and the other 1,100 yards. 

From point Quiiiaipe the coast runs S. 37° E. to point 
Metri, which is high and wooded, forms several small coves, 
and for about 1 mile off shore is bordered by numerous islets. 

From point Metri the tide recedes from 340 to 440 yards, 
though J mile from the coast the depth is from 11J to 14J 
fathoms. Pajaros islet, from which Lenca cove commences, 
is a small island with a circumference of about 1,000 feet; 



Lenca cove. 



108 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

it is connected with the continent at low water ; the cove ex- 
tends to Ghaica hill, situated at the foot of the mountains 
which form the northern entrance to theestuary of Eeloncavi. 
At low-water springs it is almost entirely dry, leaving only 
two small channels through which the rivers Lenca and Gha- 
ica empty j there is a chapel on the shores of this cove. 
The entrance of the estuary of Eeloncavi is 17 miles from 
Puerto Montt. 

Twenty miles NNE. of this coast is the volcano of Osorno. 
Galbuco or Quillaipi is 11 miles to the right. Calbuco is 
separated from the estuary of Eeloncavi by the Sierra de 
Eollizo and its branches. 
uSoucaw ° r river ^ ne estuar y or ri^er Eeloncavi was explored by Moraleda 
in 1795. The Chilian expedition of 1871 in the Chilian 
corvette la Covadonga, proved that his work was deficient 
in many particulars, and that great changes have taken place, 
especially at the head Ealun bay ; the idea given of the topog- 
raphy of the surrounding country was entirely erroneous. 

This estuary separates the Yate, a branch of the Andes, 
and its chain from the Sierra Eollizo and its spurs, which 
form an almost isolated group. Its entrance is in 41° 44' 
S. and 72° 41' W. ; it runs east for less than 11 miles, then 
turns to :N T E. and N. by E. to the parallel of 41° 22'; its 
entire length is 30 miles. 

The estuary of Eeloncavi is a gorge in the Andes, filled 
by the waters of the Pacific, a phenomenon due to the sink- 
ing of that part of the Cordillera contemporary with the for- 
mation of the archipelago of Ghiloe. Its mean width is 1 J 
miles, but this is reduced to J mile from point Eelonhue, 5 
miles south of Ealun. It has several small branches, which 
are formed by ravines in the mountains ; they are almost 
unknown, and only frequented by wood-cutters. 

The shores are rocky and steep, only presenting a gentle 
slope at the mouths of the rivers and at some few isolated 
points. The mountains which overlook them are steep and 
very thickly wooded, and have a mean elevation of 4,270 
feet. Many of their summits, especially those of the interior, 
attain to a height of 4,650 feet, the limit of perpetual snow. 
Only mount Castello, 4,935 feet, and Yate, 6,950 feet, are 
above the average elevation of the Andes in this latitude. 

The mountains on the south and east coast are more ele- 



WINDS— INSTRUCTIONS. 109» 

vated than those on the north and west coast. The former 
are not higher than 4,590 feet, and are connected with Cal- 
buco by low hills ; at the height of 3,940 to 4,260 feet they 
are entirely barren ; the snow does not adhere to their de- 
clivities ; above this height their southern slopes are cov- 
ered with snow; there are some glaciers in their ravines. 

The depth of water in the estuary is great; at the en- 
trance of the bay of Ralun, at the northern extremity, there 
are 33.} fathoms, muddy bottom. To the southward the 
depth increases; off Cochamo it is from 110 to 115 fathoms, 
between the bay of Yate and Marimeli islets 165 fathoms, 
and at the entrance of the estuary 250 fathoms is the maxi- 
mum depth obtained. The bottom is always green mud, 
very fine and adhesive. In the gulf of Reloncavi the water 
is not deeper than 150 fathoms, and the nature of the bot- 
tom is the same. The gulf is not so deep as the estuary ; 
there are no hidden dangers in the estuary. 

For several years the inhabitants of the archipelago of 
Chiloe have visited this locality to cut wood, which is ex- 
tensively exported, as in the archipelago of Chonos aud 
Guaitecas. Some x^ermanent buildings have been erected. 

The winds generally follow the direction of the estuary, winde. 
Combined with the tides they produce remarkable effects. 
With the winds from the western quadrants there is a heavy 
sea in the entrance as far as Sotomo: the currents of air 
contracted by the high mountains which surround the estu- 
ary drive into it with a violence often extraordinary, and 
follow the windings of the channel. The X. and NE. winds 
which come from the head do not usually pass the itfarinieli 
islets, but those from S. to W. blow through the whole estu- 
ary and escape through the openings of the Petrohue and 
and Reloncavi rivers. With high winds from X. to W. the 
estuary is calm in the spring, but when the northerly winds 
blow in gales they follow all the turns of the channels. 
They form water-spouts and cause such violent squalls that 
they would capsize any vessel under sail. These effects are 
worse with the flood- tide. 

With a SW. to W. wind, when the wind is blowing fresh 
outside, during the-ebbtide, the phenomenon called curanto 
takes place at the entrance; the crests of the waves are 
taken up and thrown with violence before the wind like a 



110 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

heavy briny rain. As soon as the squall is over the whole 
atmosphere cracks like ice when it is breaking up ; no ves- 
sel could then carry sail without being capsized or dismasted. 
These squalls are announced by a thick smoke, which the 
people of that region call el curanto, which they dread, and 
with reason. This phenomenon takes place even with an 
ordinary S W. wind, though with less violence ; even then 
it is dangerous, especially for boats, which must run in 
under bare poles or a close-reefed sail ; it is necessary to 
watch the state of the weather and of the tide. 

In the winter, the N. winds, which alternate with the 
SW. winds, are the most dangerous. It often happens that 
there is a fresh wind in the estuary when it is calm in the 
gulf of Eeloncavi. 

Directions. j n the mornings, there is frequently a calm or light E. 

wind, which allows vessels to run in and out ; but if the N. 
wind blows outside, which can be easily ascertained by 
watching the clouds, it is necessary to await a change in 
one of the inlets on the northern shore of the estuary. 

To enter with a N". wind, it is indispensable to take the 
north, or Horno shore, and follow it as close as possible, 
in order to avoid the swell and force of the wind, which 
beats against the south coast $ the swell is short and quick, 
and breaks on board easily. With a south wind, on the 
contrary, the south coast must be hugged for the same 
reasons. It seems to be indispensable to have steam in this 
estuary. The shores are perfectly clear, and the few re- 
marks necessary will be made while continuing the descrip- 
tion. 

Tides. xhe tides are very variable ; they depend on the place 

and age of the moon, but, above all, on the quantity of the 
rains ; the ebb is a little stronger than the flood. In the 
rainy season, the flood is very weak, and the ebb, owing to 
the torrents, acquires great force ; it has a velocity of 2 J 
miles, and often exceeds 4 and 5 miles between Marimeli 
and the north shore. In summer, the flood runs about 1J, 
and the ebb 2, miles. 

In the inlets the changes of the tides are of little import- 
ance ; at Sotomo, the force is a little more than 1 mile ; at 
Cochamo, §, and at Ealun, J mile. The local and atmos- 



CAICURA ISLETS. Ill 

pberic conditions are always the principal causes of the 
variation in the currents. The rise is nearly 22 feet. 

Caicura islets are situated at the entrance of the estuary, caicaraMeta. 
and are divided into two groups ; that of the north, called 
Piren, consists of two islets and some few cays 5 there is 
no inlet even for a boat, though they can land during good 
weather ; the islets are covered with shell-fish. The south- 
ern one, called Gaicura, gives the name to the entire group ; 
it is a little more than J mile to the south of Piren. The 
principal island, Gaicura, is rocky, steep to the south and 
west, well wooded, and cultivated in spots 5 its height in 
the center is 151 feet. To the eastward of it are four small, 
rugged islets, covered with vegetation, and separated by 
numerous rocks. 

At the northern extremity of the principal island is an 
elongated creek, which can hold sloops and boats ; it is 
open to the northward, has an excellent anchorage in soft 
mud, and is a sure shelter in heavy gales. This creek is an 
excellent resource for the vessels which frequent the en- 
trance of the estuary, and as a stopping-place during calms 
and contrary winds. This island is of greenstone, with a 
slight covering of earth over a bed of shells ; it has fresh 
water in a well at the summit of the island, which is only 
dry during very dry seasons ; these are fortunately very 
rare. 

The channel which forms the two groups is very deep ; 
there are, however, three submerged rocks about J mile 
from its entrance, off the shore of Gaicura, on which a 
vessel could readily run at low water ; at J flood they are 
not dangerous for small vessels, but they should in all cases 
keep close to the. cays of Piren. Large vessels should not 
try this passage. 

At the N. entrance of the estuary is a hill, called the Mono del 
Morro del Horno 5 it is the beginning of a perpendicular 
shore bordered by mountains, which are all overlooked by 
the double peak of Guitue, 4,160 feet. The shore is cut by 
the almost inaccessible small creeks, El Milagro, Cuitue 
with an islet, and El Cajon. The shore trends first ESE., 
then EXE. The sides of the mountains are covered with a 
thick forest of alerce. 

At Llecumo, 8 miles from Horno, there is a sand-beach at 



112 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

the mouth of the river Chilco, on which boats can land at 
low tide. The waters of the lagoon of Ohilco are at this 
point joined by those of another torrent. 

Marimeii Mets. Marimeli islets stretch for 2J miles NE. and SW. ; they 
are of moderate height and covered with trees ; their SW. 
extremity divides the channel into two equal parts, about 
9 miles to the eastward of the entrance; at the NW. 
extremity they are separated from the north coast by a 
channel filled with rocks, which is only from 220 to 330 
yards wide. It is, therefore, best to pass to the southward 
of the islands, more especially as the current in the north 
channel is always very strong. 

Between the NE. point of Marimeli and point Sotomo, 
is the Estero d' Array an, then the river of the same name, 
which is the outlet of a lake. The/ hills which border this 
coast are about 4,100 feet high. 

sotomo bay. Point Sotomo is 2f miles ENE. of the NE. point of 

Marimeli ; it is composed of rocky islets covered with trees ; 
the western one has been called Observatory cay ; its lati- 
tude is 41° 39' 36". To the NW. of this point the bay of 
Sotomo opens, the first real anchorage which is found on 
the north coast; it forms a right angle, of which the short 
side extends J mile in a NW. direction, the longer one 1 
mile NE. A small rock, called Toro cay, is near the latter 
side. Vessels anchor in 33 fathoms, muddy bottom, with 
point Sotomo S. by E., Toro Cay N. 40° W. This is less 
than 400 yards from the land, and sheltered against winds 
from NW. and SW. 

In the southern part of the bay, between high cliffs, and 
at the head of a gully about 660 feet long, are hot sulphur 
springs, which rise from the ground 6 J feet above the sea. 
They have a temperature of 62° and 108°. 

Tide?. it is high water, full and change, at Sotomo, at l h 8 m . 

The average rise is 18 feet, but at equinoctial springs it is 
23 feet. 

LaFactoria. The north point of the bay of Sotomo is formed by an 
island, separated from the mam-land by a narrow channel. 
From there the shore runs in a straight line to the N. by E. 
for 5 miles, to Factoria. This is a small settlement built by 
wood-cutters. There are 55 fathoms of water alongside of 
the shore. 



BAY OF RALUN. 



113 



The principal settlement of the wood-cutters is El Ca- ei canutniar. 
nutillar, 2J miles to the northward of Factoria, where there 
is a small beach on the border of a torrent. There are 
about twenty houses, inhabited by the men who cut the 
alerzal in the mountains about 2 miles distant, and not 
far from lake Chapo, whose waters run into the gulf of 
Eeloncavi. 

Vessels cannot anchor off El Canutillar, but must go 
opposite, in the bay of Cochamo. 

About 1 mile from El Canutillar, between point Pocoi- 
huen on the west and point Eelonhue on the east shore, the 
estuary contracts between the mountains to 1,050 yards ; it 
then extends 5 miles X. by E., with its banks steep-to on 
both sides, to the entrance of the bay of Ealun. 

The semicircular bay of Ealun is partially obstructed by BayofRaiun 
the deposits of the rivers Petrohue, Eeloncavi, and that of 
Este. 

On first entering the bay, vessels must steer NW. for J 
mile, after which they must head for the small cay called 
Xahuelhuapi, which is on the northern part of the east 
shore ; it can be passed on either side, but as the southern 
side has only a channel of 183 yards width with 12 fathoms 
of water, it is best to pass to the northward, but very close 
to the island. After this is passed, steer for Xahuelhuapi 
cove, which opens to the southward, where the anchorage 
is in 17 fathoms, with the cay bearing EXE. ; this position 
is within 400 yards of the shore. There are not less than 
24J fathoms in the channel leading to the anchorage. 

The bay of Ealun is protected against all winds, and is 
the best anchorage in the estuary ; but its distance from the 
entrance will prevent its further development. 

All the southern part of Kahuelhuapi cove is full of mud. 
At the end of the immense mud beach are hot sulphur 
springs, with a temperature of 90°, having their source near 
the low-water mark. 

On the north shore the beach uncovers for more than 1 
mile. In comparing the map of 1795 with that of 1871, it 
will be seen that the bay of Ealun has silted up for more 
than 1 mile. It is now perfectly dry at low water where the 
Spanish maps show from 30 to 47 fathoms. It is thought 
the eruption of the volcano Osorno, in 1790, changed the 
8 c 



114 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

bed of the river Petrohue, and that the eruption of 1835 

augmented the effects of the former. 
Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Balun, at l h 16 m ; 

mean rise, 18 feet ; springs, 19.6 feet. 
Basins and Between 41° and 41° 45' south latitude, there are many 

mountain chains ' J 

surrounding the lakes in the depressions of the Andes, which surround the 

bav of Ralun. r ' 

estuary of Eeloncavi. On the shores of the most distant 
lake, N ahuelhuapi, the Spaniards established a mission. The 
last Chilian expedition has thrown a new light on the geog- 
raphy of this region. 

Two principal water-courses empty into the bay of Kalun, 
the river Petrohue in the NW. and the river Eeloncavi in 
the N. The former has a course of about 16 miles, and is 
obstructed by many rocks and sand-banks ; it is the outlet 
of lake Todos los Santos. The river Eeloncavi is only a 
torrent 4 miles long, separated from lake Oayatue by a ridge 
1,580 feet high, called Oabeza de la Vaca, in whose gorges 
the river has its sources. The lake just mentioned is 2 miles 
long and 1 wide, and is connected by a torrent with lake To- 
dos los Santos. This whole country is wooded. The famous 
Bariloche road, which led to the mission of Nahuelhuapi, 
passed through the valley of the river Concha to the east- 
ward of lake Oayatue. The level of this lake is 780 feet 
above the level of the sea, while that of lake Todos Santos 
is only 370 feet. Lake Llanquihue, to the N. of Puerto 
Montt, and lake Todos los Santos, are separated by a swampy 
plain 980 feet above the sea, 6 miles in length. A short 
distance from it to the northward is the volcano Osorno, and 
to the south Calbuco mountain ; both appear to be isolated. 
To the K of lake Todos los Santos is the peak Bonechemo, 
which is covered with perpetual snow. To the east, in the 
vicinity of lake Nahuelhuapi, 1,811 feet above the sea, is 
Tronador mountain, 9,757 feet high. ( ] ) 

(OThe geographical positions of the different peaks are — 

Lat. S. Long. W. 

Volcano Osorno 41° 08' 30" 72° 33' 

Mount Tronador 41° 10' 45" 71° 51' 

Volcano Calbuco 41° 21' 02" 72° 39' 

Mount Castello 41° 42' 14" 72° 17' 

Lake Todos los Santos, S. extremity 41° 14' 04" 72° 19' 

Lake Cay atue, S. extremity 41° 17' 13" 72° 1 9' 



COAST OF CONTAO. 



115 



To the southward of point Eelonhue, opposite El Canu- cochamo bay. 
tillar, is Cochamo bay, 2 miles wide and 1 long. Vessels 
can anchor here temporarily, h mile from the mouth of the 
Cochamo river, in 49 fathoms, muddy bottom. A less depth 
of water will be found closer to the shore. This cove is very 
unsafe with SW. winds and an ebb-tide, the eddies and swell 
being sufficiently strong to capsize boats. 

From Cochamo bay the coast is high and wooded, and Pneio river. 
turns S. by W. for about 7 miles, to the mouth of the Puelo 
river, the largest water-course emptying into the estuary. 
It has its source in the eastern slopes of the Andes, traverses 
several lakes, and seems to be the most natural highway to 
Patagonia ; it was used for that purpose by Captain Gormaz in 
1872. It is navigable for boats, but the current is very strong. 

About 1 J miles from the river Puelo the river Blanco Mount rate, 
empties, whose valley separates Castillo and Yate mount- 
ains. It has its source in the immense glacier to the east- 
ward of mount Yate. This beautiful mountain, 6,970 feet 
high, covered by perpetual snow, is the western end of the 
branch which unites with the Andes in the ESE. It is more 
elevated than the principal chains in the same latitude ; it 
has three peaks. On the 8. and SE. sides the snow reached 
down to 328 feet above the sea. The Yate cau be seen from 
Ancud. On the side of the estuary it is covered with large 
alerzales. 

From the river Blanco the coast trends WSW. for 10 miles, MoIT0 cuco. 
to point Chaparano, which projects to the NW. and sepa- 
rates two coves. In the western one, called Martin bay, 
there are 39 fathoms about 400 yards SSE. of a small island 5 
after which the coast runs W. 4 miles to Morro Chico, a 
small point which forms the southern entrance of the estuary 
of Eeloncavi. 

The part of the coast between the entrance of the esteror coast of con- 
de Eeloncavi and the islet Xao is called the coast of Contao. 

Manihueico is the name of a small point and brook situ- 
ated 2J miles SSW. of Morro Chico. From it the coast runs 
S. 19° W., and at a distance of 2| miles forms a large cove, 
into which the sea enters at full tide, and in which the river 
Contao empties. It is frequented by the wood-cutters. 
When the tide recedes, it leaves a dry sand-bar of 550 yards 
extent. 



116 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

The coast, low and wooded, continues inclining to SSW.,. 
and forms the estuaries of Poza de Quidalco and of Mui. 
These can only be used by large boats. The former is a nar- 
row channel about 666 yards long, ending in a pond of about 
500 yards in diameter. The ebb-tide leaves the channel dry 
but not the pond, which abounds with fish. 

Auien island. Farther to the southward is the Aulen channel, formed 
by Aulen island and the continent. It is nearly dry during 
the ebb of the equinoctial springs ; in some places it has a 
width of 300 yards, but it contracts greatly at its southern 
entrance. The island has nearly 2 miles circumference, is 
low and wooded, and has at its northern extremity a bank 
of 550 yards extent. 

To the southward of Aulen is Garamunen cove, which can 
be used by boats. The point, which is the southern limit 
of the cove, is extended by a bank about 650 yards. 

Point Trentei- Aulen point, which is 2 miles SW. of Aulen island, is the 
hue or Auien. ^ ex fc r einity of the continent. It ends in a narrow tongue 
of sand, which uncovers at low water, and is joined to an 
islet called Nao. Point Aulen is 11 miles SW. of the en- 
trance of the estuary of Eeloncavi. 

Nao isiet. It is dangerous to approach Nao islet to the northward ; 

its length is 430 yards from E. to W., and its breadth 275 
yards from N. to S. In connection with point Aulen it forms 
an extended anchorage, which is sheltered from SW. winds. 
The channel between Nao and Queullin is clear. It is 
about f mile wide, and vessels of any size can pass through 
it. 

The current of the ebb in this channel sets to the south, 
and has a velocity of 3 to 4 knots. On leaving it, it is di- 
vided into two distinct branches ; one follows the coast of 
the continent and tb e other runs toward the Ohauquis islands. 
The force of the latter branch diminishes after leaving the 
island Queullin. The flood-tide is less strong ; it never has 
a velocity over 2 miles, and often after heavy rains it is en- 
tirely counteracted by the currents of the rivers. 

Queuiiin or cm- Queullin island is to the westward of Nao; the western 
part of this island and Puluqui form a clear channel 2 miles 
wide, which leads to the entrance of the gulf of Eeloncavi. 
Queullin is a little less than 1 mile in diameter, is slightly 
elevated, and has pointed cliffs on its southern, western, and 



COAST OF HUALAYHUE. 117 

part of its northern side. The east coast is low, with fine, 
cultivated hills ; the ebb leaves the beach dry for 220 yards, 
but there are no shell-fish, which obliges its 140 inhabitants 
to cut wood on the continent and fish on the neighboring 
banks. There is but one cove on this island, in its eastern 
part ; it is called Martin, and lies to the S. of the point of 
that name, the NE. extremity of Queullin. This cove is 
open to all winds excepting those from the west ; it can only 
shelter small vessels ; larger ones can only remain tempo- 
rarily during fine weather. Ridges of rock run out for 
about 540 yards from points Martin and Chollehuaihue, arid 
from point Huin ; on the western part of the island a sand- 
bank makes out about the same distance. 

The bank of San Jose" is If miles to the 2T. of Queullin, J** h Jg B ^£ 
and is only dry at low- water springs. From a boat anchored 
on it in 1 fathom, the following bearings were taken : Point 
Perue, (east point of Puluqui,) S. 74° W.; point Eedonda, 
(east point of Huar,) N. 9° E.; point Martin, S. 25° E. In 
some places this bank is covered by cholgas to a thickness 
of 3 feet. The channel between it and Queullin is clear and 
deep ; there is no bottom with 40 fathoms ; the channel on 
the Puluqui side is also clean, and 3 miles wide, but it is 
best to keep close to the island. 

The Hualayhue coast extends between point Trentelhue a ^^ of Hual " 
and the estuary of Gomau ; it inclines rapidly to the SE., 
and, like that of Contao, is low and wooded. One and a 
half miles from Trentelhue is Rolecha cove, and, farther to 
the southward, Queten cove. The latter, which is sheltered 
from K. and S. winds, offers a good temporary anchorage 
for all vessels. 

About 3 miles farther to the SE. is point Chauchil, from 
which a bank projects 530 yards ; it abounds in shell-fish, 
and is the resort of fishermen. From Chauchil the coast 
inclines a little to the E., forming the coves of Lleguiman 
and Cheiiua, which are completely open to the S.; in the 
former the tide recedes nearly J of a mile; point Paehuapi 
is rocky. 

Santo Domingo bank lies off Lleguiman cove about lj Santo Domingo 
miles from the coast ; it only uncovers at low-water springs; 
the part which is then dry has an extent of about 330 yards ; 
it is formed of sand and round stones. From it point Chau- 



118 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHlLOlL 

chil bears ST. 34° W.; point Pachuapi N. 74° E.; point As- 
cension N. 21° W. The channel between the bank and the 
continent has a depth of about 24 fathoms in the middle. 
This bank, as that of San Jose, is the terror of the fisher- 
men, who believe them to be haunted. 

coveHuaiayhue. Hualayhue cove is at the entrance of the estuary of Co- 
rn au and to the eastward of point Hualayhue. From point 
Hualayhue the coast runs N., forming this spacious cove, 
which is sheltered on the east by the islands Yancbid, Sen- 
huao, Macun, &c. To the NW., at the bottom of the bay, 
is the small island los Manzanos ; the channel which sepa- 
rates it from the continent is dry at low- water springs; at 
that time the beach is uncovered for more than 1 mile 
Behind the island of los Manzanos is a chain of mountains, 
from 1,600 to 3,200 feet high, which ends at the entrance to 
the estuary of Eeloncavi; between this chain and the coast 
is a low, extended plain, on which the alerce is cut. The 
small river of Hualayhue empties into the center of the 
bay ; it is navigable for a short distance by boats and balsas, 
which tow the logs of wood. 

comau or Leteu At point Hualayhue, the northern point of the entrance 
of the estuary of Comau, and 11 miles from Trentelhue, a 
group of small islands commence, through which it is said 
there is a passage, as also some interior ports ; but the 
proper passage is between the island Llancahe and Comau 
head, the southern point of the estuary, and either to the 
N. or the S. of the small island Lilihuapi. This island is 
clean, but a little over J a mile to the eastward of it is a cay, 
called la Ballena, which is above high water, and is dan- 
gerous for those who take the N., or Marillmo channel ; to 
vessels taking the southern, or Comau channel, it is less 
dangerous. 

After passing la Ballena the estuary Cahuelmo is seen to 
the NE., and to the SE. the estuary of Comau. The latter 
is 18 miles in extent. From Lilihuapi it extends SE. for 15 
miles and ends in a funnel-shaped bay 3 miles in diameter; 
its depth is 22 fathoms. In the NE. corner, at the head of 
this bay, vessels can anchor in 15 fathoms, off a sand-beach, 
to the southward of which the river Bodudahue empties. 

Vessels can also anchor in Leptepu creek to the south- 
ward of the estuary and about 3 miles west of the entrauce 



BODUDAHUE RIVER. 119 

to the mouth of 'the Bodudahue. The river Leptepu, which 
can be navigated by boats for 4 miles, empties into this 
creek. The estuary is bounded by high mountains covered 
by alerzales. The flood has a velocity of from § to 1 mile, 
and the ebb from 1 to 2 miles. 

The river Bodudahue is about 220 yards wide at its mouth ; ah ^7 er Bodad 
its entire length is 56 miles. At low water it has from 1J 
to 2J fathoms at the entrance, and is navigable without 
obstacle as far as Malpaso, where are the first rapids and the 
end of tide- water ; navigation then ceases and the river is but 
60 yards wide and runs through a thick growth of alerza- 
les. It has its source in the western part of a reservoir or 
circular lagoou, 220 yards in diameter, in latitude 42° 23' S. ; 
longitude 71° 47' W. To the southward is a cascade 390 
feet high, one of three which form an echelon ; the other 
two are 560 and 650 feet above the former. The last serves 
as a weir at the union of two torrents, one of which is in- 
terrupted by a cataract of 650 feet. This series of cascades 
seen from a mountain opposite is a beautiful spectacle. 

The Andes appear to fall here and give the appearance 
of an easy road to Patagonia. 

From this estuary the description of the coast is taken ^%£* { tJ/eatS- 
from Moraleda, aud therefore very doubtful. The high ar y° f Comau * 
coast runs about WSW. for 8 miles from Comau hill to point 
Ohulao, then to the S. with several bends. It is indented 
by the estuary Renihue, which extends into the coast about 
6 or 8 miles. Thirty-five miles from Ghulao point is point 
Lieuleu, which lies opposite the E. point of Talcan island 
and is separated from it by a channel hardly 2 miles wide 
with a depth of 85 fathoms; bottom coral and broken shells. 

About 2£ miles south of point Lieuleu is Vilcun mount- Mount ViIcun ' 
ain, in the shape of a sugar-loaf. It can be seen over the 
SE. extremity of Talcan ; is thickly wooded to the summit 
and rises directly at the edge of the sea. To the southward 
of this mountain is a deep inlet with a small island before its 
entrance. 

At 13 miles N. 88° E. of mount Vilcun is the volcano of 
Chayapiren, 8,000 feet high; 26 miles SSW. of the latter is 
the mountain Oorcovado, 7,500 feet high ; and 18 miles 
south of this is Yanteles, 6,600 feet above the sea ; these 
mountains are from 6 to 12 miles from the coast. From 



120 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOlB. 

abreast of them the coast trends nearly south for 21 miles 
to cape Corcovado, where there is a temporary anchorage. 

Tictoc Bay, Tictoc bay is 30 miles farther south ; according to Morale- 

da's charts, it is formed between a small archipelago and a 
small indentation in the continent. To reach it when com- 
ing from the K the coast of the continent must be followed, 
leaving all the small islands to starboard; care must be 
taken to avoid some rocks in the channel, J mile from the 
continent, and to pass close to the islet which is opposite 
the foul point of. Tictoc. The anchorage is in 22 fathoms, 
soft mud, under the northern part of the continent, Mira- 
hulay mountain bearing N. by W. 

Tidea It is high water, full and change, at l h 45 m ; rise 10 feet. 

iena rt Piti Pa ' Point Huala separates the bay of Tictoc from the estuary 
of Piti Palena. This tortuous inlet is about 5 miles long; 
but the perfectly sheltered part is only 3 miles long and £ 
mile wide. All its KE. shore is bordered by high mount- 
ains, sandy at the summits and covered with snow. Its 
SW. shore is an immense swamp, partially covered during 
high water. The anchorage is beyond the first turn, about 
3 miles from the entrance, in 16 to 20 fathoms, sandy bot- 
tom. Everywhere that it was examined, the SW. coast was 
found to be shoal 400 yards out, whereas the NE. shore is 
steep-to. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at 12 h 23 m ; rise 10 feet. 

Port santo Do- From Piti Palena the coast is foul to 4 miles from the 
shore ; it trends SSW. for 20 miles, where a channel, which 
is formed by the large island Kefugio and the continent, 
commences; in it are two groups of islands. About 3 miles 
from the entrance is port Santo Domingo, where vessels an- 
chor in 25 fathoms, 400 yards from the shore, behind a 
swampy point, which is often inundated during the rainy 
season or duriug N. winds. Vessels can moor head. and 
stern a little farther in, between an island called Long island 
and the continent, under Calvario peak, in 9f fathoms. The 
coast of the island is clear. The channel is only 200 yards 
wide. There is a shoal with 3J fathoms water over it. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at 2 h ; rise 7 feet. 

The description of this part of the coast ends here. From 
the estero of Oomau they are taken from the surveys of 
Moraleda in 1794, and are incomplete. 



ROUTE INSIDE OF CHILOE. 121 

The passage of the frigate Numancia has proved that the Ch ^ e iMide of 
route inside of Ghiloe is perfectly practicable. It should 
not, however, be attempted except with the object of avoid- 
ing violent N. winds, as there is almost incessant rain; the 
barometer and weather are often affected by local causes ; 
and often bad weather. is experienced in the passage when 
it is comparatively fine 60 miles out. 

A vessel taking this passage should pass outside of 
Huamblin island and then steer for Huafo, which should be 
closed to within 5 miles before keeping for the entrance of 
the channel ; as otherwise she would be liable to be set to 
leeward and toward the dangerous shores of the Guaitecas 
by the strong tides, which are said to attain a velocity of 
from 3 to 4 knots between Huafo and the Guaitecas ; keep 
as close as prudent, 6 or 7 miles, to the coast of Ghiloe, and 
haul close round for San Pedro, giving the Ganoitad rocks 
a berth of 2 miles. From San Pedro steer ESE. for 8 or 9 
miles, before keeping to the northward, to avoid the bank 
of Laytec island. Point Gentinela should not be approached 
nearer than 3 miles, and a lookout must be kept for Nurnan- 
cia bank. After passing these, steer for the passage between 
Quehuy and Ohaulinec, keeping well over to this island. 
From this, pass 1 good mile to the W. of Quenac and steer 
between N. and N. 5° E., leaving point Tenoun one point to 
starboard ; when within 2 miles of it the vessel must be 
brought on the line drawn through the N. point or summit 
of Meullin and the western point of the SW. island of Chau- 
qui; this course will clear the channel between point Qui- 
cavi and the reef off the NW. Ghauqui island, as also Pul- 
mun reef. 

A good lookout is necessary between Linna, Meullin, the 
Ohauquis, and the continent of Ghiloe. If it should be 
desirable to anchor at Quenche or in Oscuro cove, the Cau- 
cahue channel should be followed ; however, in case of 
necessity, vessels can anchor temporarily to the SE. of 
point Tres Gruces. The passage described, called the west- 
ern, has the advantage that the land is in sight, and the 
violence of the 1ST. winds, as well as the short and heavy 
seas from the gulf of Ancud, are avoided ; it is also com- 
paratively clear. 

The eastern passage is wider; pass between the Deser- 



122 THE COAST OPPOSITE CHILOE. 

tores and Chaulinec, looking out for Solitaria islet, and 
then to tbe E. of the Chauquis ; but the fogs and northerly 
winds, which obscure the land, render this passage inferior 
to the first. 
Fishery in the The inhabitants of Chiloe and the islands in its vicinity 

archipelago of , . . .^^ 

chiio6. have but two occupations : wood-cutting and fishing. Wood- 

cutting is the usual occupation of the men, and fishing that 
of the women and children. 

As the tide rises and falls some 10 feet, it leaves large 
tracts of beach and banks uncovered, which abound with 
masses of shell-fish ; placing these in reservoirs washed by 
the tide, they are kept for winter provision. The curanto, 
a dish peculiar to this island, is made of them. 

The quantity of shell-fish is diminishing around the inhab- 
ited islands, 
Tariff >f pilot* in The price of pilotage does not vary with the distance. 
aad g the°channei8 For a vessel drawing 6 feet or less, $40; from 6 feet to 10 

around Chiloe in ^ ^ . ^^ 1Q feefc ^ ^ ^ $7Q . ^^ 15 feet ^ 2Q 

feet, $90; from 20 feet to 23 feet, $110; 23 feet and over, 
$130. 



CHAPTER V. 

FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 
Variation from 19 3 03' to 13° 31', in 1876,*increasiug annually about 1' 30". 
Continuing along the coast to the northward of Chiloe, Meta Sebastiana 

° ° 7 and Carelmapu. 

it may be well to mention again that the islets Sebastiana 
and Carelmapu should be avoided, as the tides sometimes 
produce violent eddies near them, and when the swell from 
seaward meets the ebb-tide it produces an ugly short sea to 
the NW. of these islands. 

Vessels should keep close to point Corona, and avoid 
Sebastiana. By avoiding a sand-bank \ mile SE. of the 
eastern point of Sebastiana, there is plenty of water between 
it and cape Chocoy ; vessels can also pass to the eastward 
of the Carelmapu islets, but the westerly swell is so heavy 
and the tide so strong that the passage should not be 
attempted without a good local pilot, a good workiug breeze, 
and a favorable tide. These islands should not be ap- 
proached to the westward nearer than 3 miles, and it is 
more prudent to give them a berth of 4. About 6 miles to ,, E< n uai T of tbe 

1 ~ Maiulin river. 

the eastward of the westernmost of the Carelmapu islands, 
is the entrance of the river Maullin, opening between 
Amortajado head and point Quenuir. 

To the southward of the entrance to Maullin river is the Am^tafadJ. ° f 
peninsula of Amortajado, of a yellowish color and peculiar 
appearance ; the land, which from cape Chocoy is covered 
with small hills, is low at the commencement of this penin- 
sula, after which it rises rapidly for the first third of its 
length, when, after falling again, it rises and ends in a 
pyramidal promontory, vertical toward the sea, bare of 
vegetation, and stony at its extremity. The top of the 
peninsula is covered with bushes. A chain of rocks extends 
from it about 300 yards, the last of which are under water. 
The extremity of Amortajado is 8 miles from cape Chocoy. 

Doubling Amortajado to the eastward, the bay of Puelma Pa -' ma ba y- 
is to the south ; it has from 2>\ to 7 fathoms in its entrance, 
and shoals rapidly toward the land. A small vessel can 



124 FROM CHILOE TO YALDIVIA. 

anchor temporarily in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, to the east- 
ward of, and as close as possible to, the northern point of 
the peninsula. To the SE. are some coal-mines, near which 
flows the river San Pedro Nolasco. 
point pangai. q r ^ e t ner s j(j e f this river is a low sand-beach 2 J 
miles long, which ends in point Pangai. This beach, behind 
which are masses of *sand and plains which extend to the 
foot of the Cordillera of the Andes, is entirely exposed to 
the swell of the ocean. The breakers commence 400 yards, 
and often farther, from the shore, the water being shoal to 
a distance of J mile. 
Point changue. Point Ohangtie, NNW. of point Pangai, limits the interior 
entrance to the river Maullin, whose navigable breadth is 
contracted between this point and point Pangai by a chain 
of rocks above water. The two southern and principal 
rocks are called the Dos Amigos ; between these and point 
Pangai are some submerged rocks which obstruct the chan- 
nel, which is here but J mile wide, and 2 fathoms at low 
water. 

The river Quenuir empties into the estuary of the river ' 
Maullin, between points Ohangtie and Quenuir ; its vol- 
ume of water influences considerably the current at the 
entrance of Maullin river. 
Point Quenuir K. by E. 1J miles from Amortajado and about the same 
oaoy. flj S £ ance f rom point Pangai is point G-odoy, thickly covered 
with trees, the eastern limit of the high land which starts 
from point Godoy ; it is rendered more remarkable by a 
small islet, 400 yards to the westward, of a yellow-gray color, 
called Javier Igor. 

Point Quenuir is clean on the south and southwest, but 
from the SE. a chain of rocks, the largest of which are sub- 
merged, makes out in that direction about 500 yards. 

In 1859 these rocks were marked by a buoy, which has 
been washed away and replaced several times since ; it was 
about 23 feet S. 14° W. of the outer rock. Javier Igor just 
open of the S. extremity of Quenuir point bore N. 83° W. 
from it, and the N. extremity of Amortajado S. 31° W.; the 
depth in which it was anchored was 2J fathoms at low water. 
If the buoy is not in place the extremity of the rocks will be 
known by the bearings. 



DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING MAULLIN RIVER. 125 

To enter the river Maullin, a vessel should pass 1A miles pactions for 

7 r * entering Maullin 

from point Godoy and then head for the island Javier Igor; "ver. 
when 1J miles from this island keep a little to starboard, 
passing itjand Quenuir point within 400 yards ; continuing 
this course, which should be E. 2° S., the buoy will bear to 
the NE. and will be passed 100 yards to the southward • 
then steer for the Dos Amigos, which can be seen at all 
times from the buoy, from which they are about 2 miles. 
Oq this course there is not less than 3J fathoms. 

Off the mouth of Quenuir river the current is generally 
very strong and divides into two branches ; one fol- 
lows the principal current, and the other, that of Quenuir 
river, is modified by the ebb or flood. A good lookout must 
be kept to see that the currents of the flood do not drift the 
vessel on the banks off the mouth of this river, and that 
those of the ebb do not set her on the bank, which terminates 
on the sunken rocks marked by the buoy, situated between 
this river and point Quenuir. On the other hand, Pangal 
bank, which is the greatest dauger at the entrance, must 
not be lost sight of; the sea breaks on it constantly and 
the currents set across it; it appears to be constantly 
changing, sometimes enlarging and at others contracting 
the channel. When abreast of the mouth of the Quenuir 
river a vessel should be kept to starboard gradually until 
the center of the channel between the Dos Amigos and point 
Pangal is well opened ; this latter point must be passed 
within 200 and the SE. of the Amigos within 400 yards ; there 
are not less than 2 fathoms in the passage at low water. 
When point Pangal bears SSW. all danger is passed by 
keeping about 400 yards from the south shore, and leaving 
Chaba Cay to port, the anchorage off the town of San Javier 
de Maullin, in 3f to 4J fathoms, bottom muddy sand, can be 
taken. When the buoy is not in place, point Quenuir must 
be passed as before stated, and then make E. 2° S., allow- 
ing for the current ; when the center of the Dos Amigos 
bears IS". 58° E. the vessel must be headed for them, and 
proceed as before directed. 

Besides the dangers at the entrance of the Maullin river, 
in the southern part, a short swell rises suddenly, having 
the appearance of heavy breakers; it is caused by the cur- 
rents and prevailing winds. Although it is dangerous, 



326 FROM CHILO£ TO VALDIVIA. 

more especially at the change of wind or tide, the land 
must be approached as directed, keeping over to the north- 
ern shore. 

It is desirable always to take a pilot for this entrance at 
Ancud, as it is dangerous. The balandras of the natives 
are constantly lost here. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at San Javier de Maul- 

lin at 12 11 30 m ; rise, 8 feet. 

From this point the river Maullin is navigable during high 
water for vessels drawing 13 to 14 feet. 

Kiver Mauiiin. The Maullin river is the only outlet of lake Llauquihue ; 
it is 40 miles long in a straight line, but its numerous bends 
increase this greatly. In the first part of its course from 
the lake it is a torrent which ends in a semicircular cascade 
from 3 to 6 feet high, after which it flows among low hills 
and its bed is obstructed by tepuales,* through, which only 
canoes can pass ; finally, for the last 27 miles, it is wider 
and deeper, receives many affluents, and can carry small 
vessels and steamers drawing 10 feet 18 miles from its 
mouth. Tide-water extends 30 miles. The ebb often attains 
in summer a velocity of 6 miles. 

PortGodoy. Port Godoy is NW. of point Quenuir; it is a large semi- 
circular bay, badly sheltered from the prevailing winds and 
open to the SW. 

To the westward of the bay is a bluff called Yarillasmo, 
from which a small bank, almost level with the water, runs 
out to the eastward. One mile from the bluff vessels can 
anchor in from 4 to 4| fathoms ; bottom fine brown sand. 
The sand which the NW. wind brings from the dunes of the 
bay is filling this anchorage rapidly and will soon render it 
useless. 

During favorable weather boats can land to the north- 
ward of the bluff. Some fresh provisions, water, wood, and 
fish can be obtained at the houses in the vicinity. The 
landing-place is in latitude 41° 31' 23" S.and longitude 73° 
54' 00" W. During NW. and SW. gales the sea renders 
this anchorage untenable. 

Point Quiiiahua. Quillahua is a low point to the westward of the port and 

* Thickets of the tepu, a small tree with many roots, which extend 
for a long distance. The wood is very hard. 



PAEGA COVE. 127 

17J miles N. 40° E. from point Huechucucuy. In 1583 the 
Spaniards gave the name of the gulf of los Coronados to 
the space between these two points. Point Quillahua is 
rocky at its base, somewhat steep and covered with bushes ; 
to the north are some sand-duues. To the SE., J mile from 
the coast, is a large isolated rock, called la Solitaria ; to the 
south of the point the breakers extend § of a mile to sea- 
ward. 

Two other isolated reefs run out 1J miles WNW. from 
the coast ; these can only be seen with a SW. swell. This 
coast should not therefore be approached nearer than two 
miles. 

From point Quillahua the coast ruus NNW., with frequent Parga c 
bends, for 8J miles to point Estaquillas ; the beaches are 
sandy and the points alternately rocky and steep. No 
landing can be made on this coast. 

N. 23° E. of point Huechucucuy and 14 miles north of 
the large islet of Careltnapu is a small cove named Parga, 
known for the excellent coal-pits in its vicinity. The coal, 
however, has been found by experiment to be inferior to 
that of Lota. As a cove Parga is insignificant, being only 
200 feet wide and 1,000 feet long ; at the most it could only 
contain four vessels of eighty tons each at one time. The 
pilots say that it is sheltered from the prevailing winds. 
Its shores are steep, but boats can land on its eastern ex- 
tremity. The outside of the cove is foul ; to enter it a pilot 
is indispensable, as it cannot be seen from seaward. Close 
to the southward of Parga is a small cove with a sand- 
beach called Playa del Carbon, on which boats can laud dur- 
ing moderate SW. winds, but as its entrance is full of rocks 
it is necessary to have a pilot to reach it. 

Point Estaquillas, immediately to the northward of Parga Point Estaqna 
cove, is of moderate height and steep ; it is remarkable for 
the chain of islets and rocks in which it ends ; their extrem- 
ity being 8J miles X. 23° W. from point Godoy. About 1 
mile EXE. from this point is Estaquillas bay ; it is full of 
rocks and dingy-looking islets which rise like columns from 
the bottom, and a heavy swell sets in produced by the pre- 
vailing winds. 

Three miles NE. of point Estaquillas is another small Ll f c ° vc and river 
cove, called Llico after the river which empties into it; it is 



128 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

without shelter and cannot be used as an anchorage ; its 
depth is from 10 to 12 fathoms; in the center, rocky bottom; 
some rocks are visible above water in its. southern part. 
The river Llico empties in the middle of a sand-beach in 
the eastern part of the cove ; it is said to be navigable for 
20 to 22 miles; it is fall of fish and bordered by woods; the 
bay is impracticable even for boats ; near its source the 
river is called Rio Frio. 
pointcapitanes. To the northward of point Estaquillas the coast is of mod- 
erate height, very irregular, and inaccessible; it is backed 
by high mountains covered with the alerce ; here and there 
are some small rivulets. 

Fourteen and a half miles farther to the north, the direc- 
tion which the coast takes, is a small island, from which 
the coast trends £T. 29° W. for 5 miles, to cape Capitanes. 
This part is very irregular and foul, with occasional sand- 
beaches; 1 mile from the coast there are from 14 to 24 fath- 
oms. Point Capitanes is very undulating; at its extremity 
is a high island, having a peak of a yellowish color; it has 
the appearance of being attached to the main-land until 
close to it and bearing north and south. After passing cape 
Quedal, when going to the southward, this is the point most 
readily recognized. Point Capitanes is backed by mount- 
ains 2,400 feet high. 
cape Quedai. Between point Capitanes and cape Quedal the coast runs 
N. 5° E. for 10 miles, with a slight curve ; it is rugged and 
without coves ; it is inaccessible, but there are no outlying 
dangers. 

The seal hunters report that there is a shelter for boats, 
called San Luis, about 5 miles from cape Quedal, but it can 
only be reached with a pilot taken from these hunters. 

Cape Quedal, the western point of this part of the conti- 
nent, is clean, steep, and of moderate height; about \ 
mile from the shore there are from 18 to 20 fathoms. The 
cape extends 1J miles N. 19° W. A little more than 1 mile 
ETE. of cape Quedal is a cove, whose eastern beach is of sand , 
but it is bad, even with the winds from S. to W. Two riv- 
ulets from the Cordillera empty into it. 
pe*Jr°o int San Point San Pedro, 3 miles K 54° E. of cape Quedal, is 
rugged and of moderate height ; to the northward a chain 
of sunken rocks runs out 1J miles. 



BAY OF SAN PEDRO. 129 

Somewhat less than 1 mile to the westward of Sau Pedro Anchorage off 

the islet of San 

•point is a triangular group of islets, called San Pedro rocks. Pedro - 
The longest side of the triangle opposite the coast runs X. 
19° E., and extends 1 mile; they form, witb the continent, 
a clear channel without a current. The anchorage to the 
eastward of tbe islands is sheltered from SW. winds by the 
land of cape Quedal ; that of cape San Antonio gives shel- 
ter from XW. winds. The fishermen of that regiou say, 
however, that the sea from the NW. is never very heavy, 
but that the winds passing over the islands reach the ves- 
sels at the anchorage; however, the anchorage to the east 
of these islets is the only one which can furnish shelter from 
the prevailing winds on the 140 miles of coast which sepa- 
rates Yaldivia from the bay of Ancud. The best anchoring 
place is in 7 to 8 fathoms of water, bottom sand, off the 
middle of the islands. In the middle of the channel there 
are from 8f to 9f fathoms, the depth of water diminishing 
gradually to the rocky coast. 

The NE. extremity of the islands is S. 8° E. from San 
Antonio, and the southern extremity JS". 44° E. from cape 
Quedal. Vessels at this anchorage can get under way easily 
as long as the wind is not between W. and NW. 

The large bay, San Pedro, was discovered by Pastene, a Bay of San 
lieutenant of Pedro de Yaldivia, in 1544. It opens to the 
northward of the islands, is 4 miles wide from N. to S., and 
2 long from east to west, aud is limited to the northward by 
cape San Antonio ; it has a moderate depth and sandy bot- 
tom, and is exposed to the heavy swell from seaward. Open- 
ing from it as e four creeks, the most important of which are 
Huayusca and El Manzano. 

El Manzano creek is limited on the W. bv point San ei Manzano 

■ r creek. 

Pedro; it is narrow, less sheltered, and much smaller than 
Huayusca cove ; it has, however, an eveu bottom, favora- 
ble for coasters; there is a good landing-place in the center 
of the beach of pebbles, at the mouth of a rivulet which 
empties into it. The shores at the sides are studded with 
submerged rocks covered with sea weed. 

Huayusca cove, the most central, at the southern portion Huayusca cove. 
of the bay, is in latitude 40° o& 21" S., longitude 73° 56' VT. 
From the description by Pastene, this was probably where he 
anchored. The entrance is obstruced bv a rock and a small 
9c 



130 



FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 



River Lliuco. 



bank, on which the sea breaks at times; the depth is mod- 
erate and the holding-ground good ; landing is easy, and at* 
half-tide boats can enter the river Huayusca, which is nav- 
igable for 500 yards. The seal hunters of Chiloe anchor 
their sloops in this river to shelter them from the NW. swell, 
the only swell which enters the cove ; they visit this coast 
without fear, in their frail boats, and they say that vessels 
can ride oat the most severe summer tempests here; also 
that cape San Antonio is a protection from the winds and 
sea. They anchor their sloops with a saclio* and ride out 
the heaviest gales without injury. 

The cove to the eastward of Huayusca is not accessible ; 
heavy breakers roll constantly on the shore. 

The NE. angle of San Pedro bay has a deep entrance, 
with a fine sand-beach ; at first it would seem to offer shel- 
ter against the sea and NW. winds, but it is bad at all 
times, and the beach cannot be approached. The river 
Lliuco empties here; its mouth is well marked by a high 
sugarloaf- shaped rock, which is to the eastward of it, and 
close to the coast. 

From the NW. point of San Pedro bay a series of rocks, 
which are awash, and small islets with sunken rocks at their 
extremities, extend £ mile to the S W. ; between these islands 
and cape San Antonio the coast bends in a little, but is in- 
approachable on account of sunken rocks, some of which 
are 400 yards from the beach. 

There is a great confusion in the names of all the points 
and rivers of this coast, commencing at the river Maullin. 
For instance, the river Lliuco is often confounded with the 
Huayusca. The names given here are those generally used 
by the coasters, which would seem the preferable. 
cape San An- Cape San Antonio is 7 miles K 16° E. from cape Quedal, 
and projects but a short distance ; it is high, and covered 
with vegetation ; it is rugged at the base, of a grayish color, 
and overlooked by mountains from 1,150 to 2,200 feet high. 

Point Condor is 3 miles N. 14° E. from cape Sau Antonio; 
it is high and steep ; about J mile from it there are from 15 
to 17 fathoms of water. The coast to the NE. of this point 

* The sacho is a wooden anchor with 4 arms, whose weight is increased 
by stones. It is used by the coasters of Chilo6; they use a very strong 
rope of quilineja instead of chain. 



Remark. 



Point and cove 
Condor. 






CHALHUACO RIVER. 131 

forms a cove of the same name, running ESE.; there is a 
house on the western beach of this cove. Its position is, 
latitude 40° 16' 6" S., and longitude 73^ 55' 42" W. The 
north and south shores are rocky aud abrupt, their upper 
part being covered with trees; to the north of the sand- 
beach is a good landing, near a round rock. 

At the entrance of the cove there is from 20 to 22 fath- 
oms, in the center 10, and close to the shore 3J ; it is ouly 
sheltered against the winds and sea from S. to W. Tlie best 
anchorage for steamers is in 9 or 10 fathoms; sailing-vessels 
should anchor a little farther out, so as to be able to put to 
sea on the first sign of bad weather. Although the holding- 
ground is good, vessels must not attempt to ride out the 
heavy NW. gales during the winter, as a tremendous swell 
rolls in; all who have tried it have been lost. 

To the eastward of the beach of Condor cove is an isth-^^ 61 " Chal " 
mus of coarse sand, 230 feet wide, which separates a lagoon 
emptying into the river Chalhuaco from the sea. This river 
probably emptied formerly in the cove of Condor ; the heavy 
swells from the NW. must have stopped the alluvial depos- 
its and created the isthmus. The mouth is 1 mile to the 
northward of Condor, in an unimportant cove, without 
shelter, and full of rocks. 

The lagoon is shoal, but can be used by boats, as can also 
the channel through which the lagoon empties, from half- 
flood to half ebb. The small breadth of the isthmus allows 
boats to be carried across it into the lagoon. The river can 
be navigated for 4£ miles, by boats drawing 2 feet; higher 
the water is too shallow, especially during the summer; in 
winter rises of 16 to 22 feet occur without much current. 
The banks and neighboring plains are covered with the 
alerje of a superior quality, which can be easily transported. 

Three and one-quarter miles 10"W. from cape Condor is Cape Com P ass - 
cape Compass, the most remarkable point on the coast be- 
tween cape Quedal and point Gal era. It is elevated and 
clean, rugged at itsjbot, and covered with trees at the top 
£ mile from it there are from 12 to 17 fathoms of water, 
sandy bottom. It is probable that this is the same point as 
that named Huiiilil by the unfortunate expedition under 
Juan Ladrilleros, but the position given by him differs too 
widely to admit of preserving the uame. 



132 from chilo:e to valdivia. 

Ranuroad. Immediately to the east of cape Compass is a deep bend 

in the coast, called Eauu road, in the middle of which are 
three small rocks above water 5 the road has an opening of 
3 miles from N. to S., and is I mile deep. The rocks, or, 
rather, reefs, in the center leave a passage between them 
and the coast, but it is not practicable. In the eastern 
center of the road is a high point, steep to the north and 
south, with a beach of yellow sand. The river Hueyelhue* 
empties in the southern part of the north beach, and the 
river Eanu, which empties in the center of the southern 
beach, gives its name to the roadstead. 

The coast comprised between Hueyelhue and cape Com- 
pass is very daugerous; the breakers extend over J mile 
from the road, but at its southern extremity vessels can find 
some shelter, during the season of SW. winds, by anchor- 
ing in 10 to 11 fathoms, sandy bottom, with point Com- 
pass bearing S. 81° 30' W., and the rocks in the center 
"N. 21° 30" W.; there is no landing in the cove. The land 
back of the coast is of moderate elevation and thickly 
wooded; the Hueyelhue runs in a deep valley; its mouth, 
closed in by breakers, is 164 feet wide ; inside it widens to 
490 feet. 
Muiicopue cove. N. 38° E., 9 miles from cape Compass, is point Muilcopue; 
it is rugged, and surrounded by rocks awash. This point 
shelters the creek of the same name, which is open to the 
NW. from SE. winds, but these cause a very heavy swell. 
The anchorage is clean, with moderate depth and good 
holding-ground; the cove is surrounded by wooded mount- 
ains of moderate height; the shores are rocky, with detached 
rocks at short distances from them. 

The southern beach, also called Muilcopue, is flat, and is 
alone accessible; the landing is on its western part, in lat- 
itude 40° 35' 52" S., and longitude 73° 47' 45" W. A small 
rivulet empties on the east side. 
Manzano cove From Muilcopue the coast, rocky and irregular, trends 
about N. 25° E. ; off it are three islets, named Los Lobos, 
which form two insignificant coves; the one perpendicular 
to the islets is called Pulameuu. 

To the north of these is the SW. extremity of Manzano 
creek; the point is rugged, surrounded by rocks, and only 

* Not to be confounded with Manzano creek, p. 12 J. 



BANDERAS BAY. 133 

extends one a, short distance. The cove is to the XE. ; it is 
badly sheltered, has a bad landing place, and can only be 
used in calm weather, which occurs very rarely. The depth 
of the anchorage varies between 7 and 14 fathoms, sandy 
bottom. This cove forms the southern part of the open 
roadstead of Mauzauo ; the eastern beach of the roadstead 
is of yellow sand ; it is broken in its center by an abrupt, 
high point, from which some rocks project J mile. Two 
small brooks, which cannot be approached on account of 
the breakers, empty, the one on the southern and the other 
on the northern beach. 

The coasts of this roadstead, as well as that more to the 
northward, are dangerous. The mountains which lie back of 
it have a mean height of 1,550 feet, and are thickly wooded. 

The coast continues MW., with exception of the small Covadongarock. 
point Pulome, to point Pucatrihue, 7 J miles N. 21° W. of 
the roads of Mauzano ; 2J miles S. 16° E. from the latter 
point, and 1J miles S. 86° W. of point Pulome, is a sub- 
merged rock, called Oovadonga, £ mile to the southwest, 
and also to the north of this danger are from 27 to 28 fath- 
oms, of water, with rocky bottom. The sea breaks on it with 
a heavy SW. swell. 

One mile and a half SSE. of point Pucatrihue is a small 
cove, info which a small river empties. In the western part 
of the cove is a narrow sand beach, which would appear to 
offer some shelter to boats; from seaward some breakers 
are seen near it. 

Pucatrihue point is high and rugged; some rocks lie h Point P^catd- 
off it. 

Banderas bay is bounded to the WSW. by Pucatrihue Banderas or 
point, and is open from that, bearing to N. The SW. swell bay. 
renders this road bad, even in fine weather ; it shoals 
gradually from 18 fathoms in the center to 7 near the shore. 
The bottom is fine sand, with large stones in the south part 
of the bay, which is the best sheltered. Boats can only 
land alongside of the rocks in the southern part, and the 
surf makes landing at all very difficult ; on the eastern side 
of the bay is a beach of yellow sand, but as it is always 
exposed to breakers, landing can only be attempted during 
favorable weather. 

The south coast is rough and studded with large stones 5 



134 



FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 



Milagro cove. 



Directions. 



some rocks run out from it into the bay on the side of point 
Pucatrihue. The neighboring hills are covered with vege- 
tation, and rise as they advance to the east. The roadstead 
is of no importance. The Indians who come here in sum- 
mer for shell- fish have built some huts. 

A little more than 6 miles N. 3° E. of Banderas bay is a 
cove, in whose southern part is Milagro cove. In the inter- 
val the coast preserves the same aspect — wooded cliffs 
backed by elevated land ; between Corral and Rio Maullin 
it is but one extended alerzale forest. 

Milagro cove is remarkable for an isolated island, in the 
shape of a sugar-loaf, which lies off it about § mile from the 
coast; although it is smaller than Lamehuapi cove, it is a 
little more sheltered from the SW.; the landing is worse, 
however, as boats ground a short distance from the beach, 
and lie exposed to the surf. The river Zehuilanquen emp- 
ties on the eastern part of the sand-beach, in front of the 
rocky coast ; its entrance, 165 feet wide, is inaccessible ; it 
appears to be of some importance. The islet forms, with 
the coast, a deep channel, safe for moderate-sized vessels; 
it should not be taken except in cases of necessity. When 
standing in for this cove from the 1W., it can be recognized 
by a wooden house, which is in the middle of the yellow 
sand beach at its head ; the lead-color of this house con- 
trasts strongly with the green of the vegetation; the islet 
is the best landmark, however; it cannot be mistaken. 

The best anchorage is in 8| fathoms, bottom sand, in the 
southern part of the cove, with the south point bearing S. 
18° W., and the eastern part of the sand beach S. 47° E. 
The landing-place is on the western part of the southern 
sand-beach ; its position is in latitude 40° 26' 10" 8., and 
longitude 73° 46' 30" W. 

In 1860 a brig was surprised in this cove by a NW. gale 
and lost. This anchorage is passable daring SW. winds, 
but entirely worthless during NW. gales, especially in the 
winter. 

About 3 miles S. 6° W. from the island, following the 
coast, there is a small creek with a sandy beach, into which 
a brook empties; it is supposed that boats can enter it dur- 
ing good weather. Behind a group of low islets, in the 
NE. part of Milagro cove, is another cove sheltered from 



RIO BUENO. 135 

SW. winds. The river Trahuilco empties into it. A land- 
ing can be effected without trouble on the western beach of 
this small cove. It is better for taking in wood and water 
than that of Milagro. 

The southern point of the Rio Bueno is 5£ miles X. 6° W. Ri0 Buen0 - 
from the northern part of Milagro cove; the bay is entirely 
open to the prevailing winds. The bar of the river is in 
latitude 40° 15' 38" S., and longitude 73° 46' W.; outside 
of it are from 4 to 8 fathoms of water. To the southward 
are some hills from 2,600 to 2,950 feet high. The northern 
point of the mouth of the river is rocky, and some isolated 
rocks lie off it; one about 230 feet from the shore is dan- 
gerous for the small vessels which frequent the river. The 
bar runs N. and S., and is 550 yards from the mouth of the 
river, completely barring it with a line of breakers. The best 
channel for crossing the bar is west of the entrance in from 
1£ to 3 fathoms. To the north and south of it the water 
shoals and the breakers are heavier. 

The mean breadth of the Rio Bueno varies between 490 
and 740 feet ; at the mouth it is 590 feet wide. The current 
of the river is variable, but with the ebb-tide it reaches, 
near the mouth, a velocity of 3 knots. During good weather 
the bar can be crossed safely by steamers drawing 8 feet, 
but is always dangerous to sailing-vessels. 

The southern coast is elevated and keeps off the wind ; a 
small vessel crossing the bar may therefore be left at the 
mercy of the current, which would carry her on the stone at 
the mouth. So many have been lost that the navigation of 
the river was interrupted until the commerce was so far 
developed as to warrant the use of steamers. 

The river Bueno has its source in lake Ranco, 390 feet 
above the sea. Some of its tributaries have their source 
near lake Llanquihue. In the first third of its course there 
are several rapids, but in the remainder navigation is easy. 
It is said that steamers drawing not over 8 feet can go up a 
distance of 46 miles, to Trumao ; the tide is felt 43 miles 
from the mouth. 

From Rio Bueno to Lamehuapi point the rugged coast Lamehuapi 

point and cove. 

bends to the westward. From Lamehuapi point, point Ga- 
lera bears K 4° E., and point Hueicolla N. 38° E. A short 
mile outside the point are from 16J to 20 fathoms, bottom 



136 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

fine black sand. The coast then trends N". for 2J miles to 
Laraehuapi cove $ it is steep, clean, and backed by wooded 
heights. 

Lameh-uapi cove is a good shelter against SW. winds, but 
is entirely exposed to those from the north, which bring in 
a heavy sea. It is of good size, with a moderate and regu- 
lar depth, with good holding-ground, and is capable of con- 
taining a large number of vessels in from 6 to 8 fathoms ; 
bottom black sand. In a little creek, to the eastward of a 
sugar-loaf-shaped hill, there is a good landing, during SW. 
winds, on a small sand-beach between the rocky coast and 
the large eastern beach, in latitude 40° 11/ 47" S. and long- 
itude 73° 45' 51" W. 
Directions. This cove can be recognized by an un painted wooden 

house, which is just above the SE. beach ; its leaden color, 
due to the weather, makes it very prominent ; a small brook 
empties into the sea to the eastward of this house; the bay 
is bordered by wooded hills of moderate height. Sailing- 
vessels can beat in without difficulty, but must abandon it 
on the first indications of a northwester. 
Hueicoiu or Point Hueicolla is 8 miles N. 19° E. from Lamehuapi cove ; 
anTcove* point it gives the cove of the same name a little shelter against 
SW. winds. About 550 yards K. of the point is an isolated 
submerged rock, on which the sea breaks constantly ; there 
are 6 fathoms between it and the land, but the channel 
should only be used by boats. There is no good landing, 
but boats can run in on top of the surf and beach, if the surf 
is not too heavy. 

Hidden by a stony point to the eastward of the anchor- 
age of the cove, the river Hueicolla empties ; it has its source 
in the mountains about 9 miles from the shore, and is inac- 
cessible. 

About 2 miles to the northward of the cove is a small 
rocky point, which is clear, and projects only a short distance. 
About £ mile from the coast there are from 16 to 18 
fathoms. 

The river Colun empties to the NE. of the point ; it has its 
source in the Cordillera of the coast, and, like the river Hue- 
icolla, is deep near the sea, but the rest of its course is a 
torrent j it is not accessible from the sea, and the point does 
not protect its entrance. 



POINT GALERA. 



137 



Point Galera. 



Point Falsa >a- 
Lera, 



Hueicolla cove is part of the large indentation from which 
the coast runs N. 8° W. for 6 miles to point Galera. This, 
a nearly straight piece of coast, is clear and bordered by a 
beach of dark sand. 

In clear weather point Galera is visible 15 or 20 miles ; it 
was discovered by Pastene, September 21, 1544; it is salient, 
mountainous, and surrounded by two rocky points, which 
renders its approach dangerous during foggy weather; oth- 
erwise its vicinity is safe ; to the EXE. it is overlooked by 
the mountains of Valdivia, 1,080 feet high, which are a good 
landmark. As far as point Falsa Galera, the coast is undu- 
lating, clean, and rocky. It is proposed by the Chilian gov- Light proposed 
ernment to establish a light of the 2d order on this point. 
It is to be fixed and flashing, and visible 25 miles. 

Falsa Galera point is 3 miles N. 41° E. from point Galera ; 
it is level, and forms the western prolongation of the mount- 
ains of Valdivia. About 1 mile outside of it are some de- 
tached rocks above water; these rocks, the point, and the 
mountains are in a straight line; otherwise the vicinity of 
the point is clear. 

A little more than 4 miles N. 52° E. from Falsa Galera is Point cnaihuin. 
point Chaihuiu, a salient, rocky, and foul point ; it is backed 
by wooded heights of moderate elevation. 

The river Chaihuin is immediately to southward of the River chaihnin. 
poiut. During calm weather its bar can be crossed by 
boats; the chaunel follows the point; it must not be at- 
tempted without a pilot. The 1ST. winds blow into the cove 
and river, and those from SW. send in a heavy sea and make 
it inaccessible. 

After crossing the bar, boats can ascend the river, if the 
tide is with them, for nearly 15 miles ; its breadth for the first 
two miles is 550 yards at high water ; at low tide it is but 
328 feet. Farther up it gets narrower, and its banks are 
wooded to its source in the Cordillera. The right bank of 
the lower part of the river is strewn with sandbanks and 
the left with mud-banks, which are covered during the rainy 
season. 

The river Chaihuin runs in the gorge of Chaihuin. When 
seen from the NW., a sugar-loaf- shaped hill will be noticed 
at its end. The entrance has some resemblance to that of 
Yaldivia. 



138 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

The coast between point Ohaihuin and Gonzalo hill makes 
a regular curve, broken by four small rocky points. The 
middle one, Palo Muerto, is the best defined ; a reef runs 
out from it 800 yards. 

Gonzalo head. Gonzalo hill or head is about 10 miles N. 51° E. from 
point Chaihuin, and 15 J miles from point Galera; it is of a 
yellowish color, very rugged, and covered with vegetation to 
its summit. It is 550 feet high. About 800 yards N. 63° 
E. from this hill is the isolated and elevated rock Pena Sola. 
It is clear to seaward but connected with the coast by a 
chain of submerged rocks; 1,400 yards from the hill is Palo 
Muerto, low and rocky, the breakers extending from it J 
mile; at their outer edge are 2 fathoms. Between this 
point and the hill are three small coves, in which boats can 
land during good weather; they are called Cabeza de laBal- 
lena, Maliuo, and La Loberia; all three are rocky, narrow, 
and foul ; their entrances are full of submerged rocks, which 
run out 328 yards. They are overlooked by high, peaked 
cliffs. 

ught proposed, j^ j s proposed by the Chilian government to build a light- 
house on jcape Gonzalo; the light to be fixed, white, and 
visible 24 miles. 

Point and fort The small peninsula of San Carlos, crowned by a fort of 
the same name, is S. 70° E. from cape Gonzalo. The penin- 
sula is very rocky, and has a diameter of 1,300 feet, and is 
42 feet high. The low and stony isthmus has a small creek 
on its eastern side, in which boats can land during good 
weather. 

The fort, which dates from the time of the Spaniards, has 
the shape of a regular demi hexagon, three sides of which 
face the entrance to the bay of Yaldivia. 

Aguada del in- The coast between points San Carlos and Palo Muerto 
forms a cove with dangerous rocky shores ; the depth varies 
between 2 and 3 fathoms. About J mile S. 64 W. from San 
Carlos it incloses a small beach, called Aguada del Ingles ; 
this cannot be used with NW. winds. It was the landing- 
place of admiral Cochrane, in 1820, when he took fort San 
Carlos, with its garrison of 1,500 men, with 150 sailors. 

Point juan La- Point Juan Latorre is 3 short miles K 62° E. from Gon- 
torre * zalo head. It is steep and rocky, with a level surface ; a 

chain of rocks makes out from it ^rnile. 



POINT DEL MOLING. 139 

Gonzalohead and point Juan Latorre, properly speaking, 
form tbe entrance to the bay of Valdivia, which runs in 
SSE 

Two-thirds of a mile SSE. from point Juan Latorre is Point del Moiino 

L or del Ancla. 

point Moiino; it is broad, steep, and surrounded by sub- 
merged rocks, which extend out 300 yards. The northern 
portion is called Numpulli, and the southern portion is, 
properly speaking, Moiino. When the sea does not break, 
boats can land at the edge of the sand-beach among the 
rocks. S. 3° E. 1J miles from point del Moiino is point Ni- Point Niebia. 
ebla ; between them is a spacious cove, with a saud-beacli 
divided in its center by two small rocky points. 

Point Niebia is 114 feet high, and level at the top ; its 
base is surrounded by a bed of large stones, which is uncov- 
ered. At the edge of the bank are 2 fathoms, with sandy 
bottom. Seen from seaward, this point is remarkable for 
its bold, steep cliffs, the white light-house, the battery fac- 
ing the river, and the barracks above. To the eastward 
of the point is a small creek full of rocks, in which boats can 
land; it is called Huairona. This is the only point from 
which the fort can be reached. 

The fort is constructed in the hard rock which forms the 
point; it is backed by the cliffs, and has but one entrance. 

On the western part of point Niebla is a light-house. The Light-house: 
illuminating apparatus is in a tower on the top of a small long. 73° wso".' 
house 121 feet above the level of the sea ; it is fixed white, 
and can be seen during clear weather from 6 to 8 miles ; in 
rainy or foggy weather, however, it can ouly be seen 1 
mile. The tower is 32 feet high, square, and of wood. There 
is a signal-mast alongside the light-house. 

DESCRIBING THE WESTERN SHORE OF THE BAY. 

Point Amargos is 1 mile SSE. of point San Carlos; the Point and fort 
intermediate coast is rocky and foul ; near San Carlos is 
point Barro, and near Amargos is point Pastigo ; these pre- 
vent Amargos from being seen from San Carlos. 

Point Amargos is low and rocky; at its extremity is a 
large flat rock called El Conde, which can be approached 
without danger; at its foot there are from 6 to 8 fathoms of 
water, sandy bottom. On the point is a dilapidated battery 
19 feet above the sea, called Amargos. 



Amargos, 



140 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

point Avanzada Point Avanzada makes out f mile S. 17° E. beyond fort 

or Cnorocomayo. & ^ 

Amargos ; it is steep and rocky, and on its upper part, which, 
is level, is a battery, called Ohorocomayo. 

Amargoscove. The coast forms a cove between these two points, called 
Amargos ; it is not deep, and ends in a sand-beach, on which 
a brook of excellent water empties. Vessels can anchor in 
this cove, but are exposed to NW. winds. 

Atreai Bhoai. Fitz Roy indicates a rock 100 yards to the B. of point 
Avanzada ; it does not exist. It is probable that it was 
confounded with Atreai shoal, which is on the line which 
joins point Avanzada with the rock del Conde de Amargos, 
and bears E. 18° S. from the sand-beach in the cove of that 
name. The bank is of rock, the central part being formed 
of pebbles, and is covered with sea-weed ; during spring- 
tides it uncovers from 3 to 7 inches. It is not dangerous for 
vessels going in or out of the port of Valdivia; the ebb tide 
of the river sets toward it, but stops short 100 yards from 
the rock. 
eico?rI aldivia ° r Following the rocky and clean coast 600 yards to the 
southward from point Avanzada is point Laurel, or Oalva- 
rio. From it the coast first trends S. 18° W., forming a small 
indentation, which is closed to the southward by the point 
and Gastle el Corral ; this is Corral, or the port of Valdivia, 
affording excellent shelter in all kinds of weather. 

On entering, the bay of Yaldivia appears to be very spa- 
cious, but the anchorage is contracted, and the part entirely 
sheltered is capable of holding but about 40 vessels moored 
with one anchor to N. and a stern-fast to the southward, on 
account of the strong tides. The anchor to the northward 
should be dropped as close as possible to the E*. coast in 5J 
to 6J fathoms j bottom black mud. 

Description. El Corral is one of the greatest ports of the republic, and 
is of importance from the great progress which the province 
of Valdivia has made in European immigration; large as- 
sorted cargoes are consigned to this port from Europe and an 
excellent quality of hides are exported. Steamers stop here 
four times monthly, and communication with Valdivia is 
carried on by river steamers. 

Fresh and salt provisions can be obtained at a moderate 
price. The water is excellent, and abundant in the western 
part of the port. Wood for construction is plentiful, and it 



PORT OF OORRAL. 141 

can be obtained for repairs and spars ; but they are not 
usually on hand, and must be sent for. Goal is scarce, and 
can only be obtained in small quantities. 

The following are the articles of exportation : Wood of 
all kinds, hides, beer, cider, char qui, or dried beef, salt meat, 
glue, and many other products of the German colony. There 
are a few naval stores ; carpenters and blacksmiths are found 
at Valdivia. 

The fortifications were the same iu 1871 as those marked 
on the charts, but they are not armed. 

To the southward of the port is a low beach, on which a 
brook empties ; a little farther is the rocky point Corral, 
surmounted by the castle of the same name, back of which 
is the small town of the port, haviug 500 inhabitants. 

There are one government and two private wharves at 
Corral. During bad weather ballast is thrown overboard 
near the shore in Pantheon cove; in summer and in good 
weather in Amargos cove, stone ballast must be thrown on 
the beach between the government mole and port Corral. 
There is a life-boat station, and there are two ship-yards for 
repairing. 

Bound to Corral, the landfall to be made depends on the Directions for 

7 K entering the bay 

season, and especially on the prevailing wind when nearin^ ■ of vaidivia. 
the coast. Duriug the winds from the NW. quadrant the 
shores should be approached on the parallel of 39° 40' S., 
and during the SW. winds point Galera or the 40th parallel 
should be made. 

It must be remembered that on nearing the coast, the 
cove of the river Chaihuin, which is 10 miles S. 51° W. 
from Gonzalo head, resembles so much the entrauce to the 
bay of Valdivia that many have mistaken them. During 
clear weather it is easy to make the distinction, wheu it is 
remembered that the sugar loaf-shaped hill which is seen in 
the center of the entrance to Chaihuin is more elevated and 
pointed than the one seen in the center of Corral. Gonzalo 
head is also of a more characteristic shape than the coast 
S. of Chaihuin. 

With SW. and SE. winds the weather is clear, and point 
Galera can be seen 15 miles ; as soon as it is recognized, the 
land can be approached within 2 miles, or steer for Gonzalo 
head ; when it is made it must be rounded closely, and then 



142 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

the coast can be kept aboard without fear. If the winds 
should be contrary, and the tide ebb when off San Carlos, 
the anchor should be dropped as soon as possible. During 
the flood vessels can beat in and extend their tacks to 
within 400 yards of the shore, until the narrowest part of 
the channel, between Amargos and Niebla, is reached. 
Vessels cannot beat farther on account of the narrow 
channel; they must then anchor and await a tow or a 
change of wind. If the ebb should set in while beating, 
the anchor must be dropped immediately. 

The landfall is much more inconvenient with NW. winds, 
as they are always accompanied by fog. When the wind is 
between W. and NW., the land can seldom be seen farther 
than 3 or 4 miles ; then it is most prudent for sailing-vessels 
to stand on the off-shore tack until the weather clears. 
The fog or mist seldom lasts longer than 48 hours. 

With the winds from NW. to W., which are a little less 
foggy, it is best to stand in for Bonifacio head, which, 
though projecting but little, is more pointed and higher 
than the land around Valdivia. When this hill is made, 
the bay can be entered with a fair wind. 

Point San Carlos can be passed within 400 yards, and 
Amargos as close as desirable, but not inside of the line 
joining the points which form the bay. 

It must be remembered that the ebb-tide is always 
stronger and of longer duration than the flood, and during 
the season of freshets, that is during the winter, the only 
effect the flood has is to diminish the strength of the ebb. 
It is not well to attempt to enter after dark, especially in 
thick or foggy weather, as the light cannot be depended 
upon. 
Tideg It is high water, full and change, at Corral, at 10 h 35 m ; 

rise 5J feet. 
Tres Hermanas Mancera bank is situated almost in the center of the bay 
' ot Valdivia; the water shoals gradually toward it, except- 
ing to the S. and S W., where it shoals suddenly ; the western 
edge of the bank is tangent to the line which joins port 
Corral with Huaironacove, to the eastward of point Mebla; 
it is ^ mile from Corral, and the same distance from Laurel 
point; the SW. part of the bank is the shoalest, it having 



MANCERA BANK. 144 

on it but from 1 to 3 feet of* water, bottom fine sand mixed 
with small shells. 

During quiet weather the bank can be distinguished by 
the color of the water, and when it is rough by the breakers. 
The NE. and NW. winds cause considerable sea, and when 
they occur with the rising tide it is best not to try to cross 
the bay. 

A buoy has been moored in 3 fathoms of water on the 
western edge of the bank : it lies S. 71° W. from point 
Piojo, and N. 49° W. from the SW. extremity of Mancera 
island. When the wind is light it is best not to go too close 
to this buoy, as the tide sets over the bank, and at times 
with great force ,• it must never be passed to the eastward. 
This bank is continually increasing ; where there were from 
18 to 20 feet in 1788, there were only 4 feet in 1835, and in 
the same place at present there is only 1.4 feet. The depth 
on the remainder of the bank varies between 3 and 7 feet at 
low water. Although the deposits of the rivers Valdivia 
and Torna Galeones which form it, are irregular, there is no 
doubt but the bank will soon be an island. In September, 
1862, a very dry year, the top of the bank appeared at low 
tide. It has, therefore, the tendency to diminish the already 
small harbor of Corral. 

In 1835 the bank was 2,800 feet from point Oalvario, and 
from the left bastion of castle Corral. In 1868, the first 
was reduced to 2,265 feet and the latter 2,296 ; the bank 
has, therefore, annually increased 13.4 feet; under these 
conditions the anchorage will disappear in a century and a 
half j but as the deposits are only fine sand without stones 
or pebbles, the dredge can be used with great advantage. 

Observations prove that the entrance to the bay of Val- 
divia has also changed in depth. Siuce 1835 the water has, 
however, deepened on the Mebla and Amargos side, while 
it has shoaled near San Carlos. 

The island Mancera is situated in the SSE. part of the Mancera island 
bay of Valdivia about J mile from Tres Hermanas bank; 
it is somewhat more than J mile long from north to south 
and 2,000 feet wide from east to west. The center is taken 
up by a hill 300 feet high, which runs in the longitudinal 
direction of the island. The slopes are surrounded by 
plains, on which are some cultivated spots and a few houses. 



144 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

At the northern extremity, in a gloomy valley, is a little 
hamlet with its single street. The N. and W. shores of the 
island consist of cliffs; the S. and E. shores terminate in 
sand-beaches, on which boats can land, excepting with a 
swell from NW. The best place for landing, however, is a 
rocky point, called la Cal, at the NE. extremity of the island ; 
it is a natural mole and near the most thickly inhabited 
part of the island. On the KE. point is a battery, called 
Mancera, which commands the channel leading to the river 
Yaldivia. 

The N. coast is rocky but clean ; vessels drawing 10 feet 
can approach within 119 yards. From the S. coast a reef 
runs out to half the width of the channel separating the 
island from point de la Earn a or Trinidad. This reef is 
dry at low water; beyond it is a large rock, called Los Lo- 
bos. A low point, called Oastillito, makes out from the SE. 
of the island ; to the southward of it is another reef, which 
is covered at high water. 

This island, la Guiguacabin of the Indians, was discov- 
ered by Pastene in 1514. It derives its preseut name from 
the Marquis of Mancera, viceroy of Peru in the 18th 
century. 

From the island there are three openings : That to the 
NNE. is the mouth of the river Yaldivia, which leads to 
the city of that name ; that to the eastward is Torna Gale- 
ones, leading to the river Futa, to l'Angachilla, and also to 
the river Yaldivia ; the third is the inlet of San Juan. 
San juan inlet. Following the high, rocky coast to the SE. is point de la 
Rama or Trinidad, 1J miles from fort Corral ; from thence 
the coast runs S. J E. and forms the inlet of San Juan, 
which is about 2 miles loug and 1 wide; it is of little im- 
portance to navigation ; its shores are steep and rocky, with 
exception of the southern, which is sandy and marshy, but 
can only be approached during high tide. Its depth at the 
entrance is 2£ fathoms, 1 mile to the southward 1 fathom, 
and within J mile from the beach 3 feet. Three small riv- 
ers, the San Juan, the Oatrileufeu, and de los Llanos, empty 
into it. 

The mouth of the San Juan is 1 mile to the southward of 
point Trinidad, in the middle of a small sand-beach ; it is 



THE TORNA GALEONES. 145 

limited to the southward by a low rocky promontory. This 
river is shoal and very tortuous ; canoes can go up with the 
tide for about 1 mile. Some few huts and cultivated land 
are on its banks. 

The rivers Catrileufeu and los Llanos empty at the ex- 
tremity of the sand-beach at the head of the cove, but are 
navigable for small boats during high water. Los Llanos, 
the eastern, is the most important. 

Point San Julien is the eastern end of the inlet. The 
shore to the southward is foul and encumbered with reefs. 

The mouth of the Torna Galeones is % mile wide be- Mouth of Tor 

J na Galeones. 

tween points Oarboneros to the northward and Fronton 
to the southward, and | mile from the island Mancera. 
Oarboneros is a low, steep promontory, bordered to the 
westward by a bank of large stoaes. The southern extrem- 
ity of the promontory is called Puerto Clara. A mud-bank, 
called Simon Reyes, the top of which can be seen at low- 
water springs, makes out from Oarboneros; this bank ends 
near Mancera, but is separated from it by a channel with 
from 2f to 3| fathoms. 

Fronton point is low and covered with vegetation ; 200 
yards from it, NE. by N., are some rocks, which can be seen 
at low water. The depth between this and the preceding 
points varies from 1J to 2J fathoms. Vessels drawing 13 
feet can go up the Torna Galeones. 

The shore between Fronton and point San Julien is rug- 
ged and thickly wooded ; in the center there is a sand- 
beach, from which a bank of stones makes out for 100 
yards; the channel between it and Mancera is shoal; a 
bank of rocks in the eastern half of the channel uncovers 
at half-tide ; the channel can only be used by vessels draw- 
ing 6 feet. 

One-half mile SSE. from point Xiebla is point Pioio ; it is Moutb of the 

_ x ^ J 7 river Valdivia. 

low and rugged, and a bank of rocks extends from its 
southern part. The tide runs at the rate of 2 knots an 
hour along the edge of the bank. The mouth of the river 
Yaldivia is between this point and Oarboneros; it trends 
about EXE., and is contracted to the width of 875 yards 
between two rocky points 1 mile NE. of Mancera. The 
bank Simon Reyes encroaches on this channel. The maxi- 
10 c 



146 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

mum depth is first on the NW. shore, but soon shifts to the 
southern, or side of point Alcones. 
currents. r£^ Q currents in the estuary of Valdivia are very irreg- 

ular, and vary according to the season, the tides, the rains, 
and the prevailing winds. The flood has a velocity of 1 
knot at the entrance, in the center of the channel, and 
reaches 2 knots near point Niebla and the Peiia del Conde. 
It conies from the SW. along the outside coast; on enter- 
ing the gulf where the river Yaldivia empties, it runs to 
the SB., directly toward the river; it is divided by the 
bank Tres Hermanas ; the larger branch running toward 
the Eio Yaldivia and the smaller to the cove of San Juan. 
They join again on the other side of Mancera island, off the 
Torna Galeones. 

The ebb comes down the rivers, unites its waters in the 
bay, and runs to seaward in the center of the channel. 
From the entrance of the estuary it turns to the SW., and, 
when off point Galera, it runs S. At that point it is almost 
imperceptible, excepting during the winter. 

Both the ebb and flood are influenced by different causes ; 
with SW. winds it runs out to the NW. with very little 
force ; otherwise it follows the coast from Gonzalo head to 
point Galera. 

During the rainy season, which is also that of the NW. 
winds, the flood has very little strength ; the ebb hardly 
stops running ; when the latter is aided by the waters of 
the swollen rivers it has sometimes a velocity of from 3 to 
4 knots; during that time it is found nearer to the S. coast, 
and its velocity increases toward Gonzalo head, attaining 
from 5 to 6 knots; from there it runs toward point Galera 
and passes it with considerable strength. 

After K". winds have prevailed for some time the ebb is 
increased. The current, which runs parallel to the coast 
from point Niebla to Bonifacio head, has always a tendency 
to separate. 

Vessels leaving Valdivia must keep in the center of the 
channel, as the currents first set toward points Laurel and 
Avanzada, and afterward to the Pena del Conde. 
River valdivia. The river Valdivia, the Ainilevo of the Indians, was dis- 
covered in 1544 by the Genoese Pastene, lieutenant of Val- 



EIVER VALDIVIA. 147 

divia. The latter gave it his name up to the town of Val- 
divia, 12£ miles from the mouth. 

The river Yaldivia is the estuary of the river Calla Calla, 
and is the largest and, at the same time, the most intricate 
part of that river. From the bay of Yaldivia it runs EXE. 
for 5 miles, then E. for 2 miles, and, finally, ST. to the city. 
The navigation, during the fine season, is very good ; its 
shores are bordered by thickets and flowers, in the midst of 
which are some houses ; the water is brackish in the first 
part, but becomes fresh as soon as the turn to the eastward 
is reached, but it does not attain its full transparency until 
after its confluence with the river Cruces. 

Two small passenger steamers run between the bay and 
the city, and many balandras and schooners are continually 
transporting wood to El Corral. Sometimes sea-going ves- 
sels go up to the town, and they could ascend even much 
higher. The depth of the river varies according to the rises 
and winds; but no vessel drawing over 13 feet can ascend. 

All vessels drawing from 4.5 to 9.8 feet must leave El g o£gToVaidivfa. r 
Corral 2 hours before high water, being careful to leave the 
buoy of Tres Hermanas bank to starboard, and steer for the 
light-house of Niebia. At J mile from it they must change 
the course so as to head for the northern point of Mancera 
island, or a little to starboard of it, according to the strength 
of the current, so as to avoid the bank which makes out 
from point Piojo ; at § flood there are not less than 2 J fath- 
oms. 

The island Mancera must be approached within 660 yards, 
and the vessel must then be headed X". 41° E., or for the 
middle of the river Yaldivia, but keeping gradually to Car- 
boneros point, which must be passed within 110 yards; 
after that the left or SE. shore must be followed at a dis- 
tance of 45 to 110 yards ; not less than 2f fathoms will be 
found. 

At 1J miles from Carboneros is a small, steep cliff, called 
point Alcones ; the channel runs from it obliquely to point 
Agua del Obispo, on the opposite bank. This is the worst 
place in the river ; two large banks, which often do not give 
1J fathoms at high tide, obstruct this passage ; the bottom 
is very irregular, of fine sand 5 masses of muddy sand, with 
only a depth of 1J fathoms, are often found; vessels are 



us 



FROM CHILOE TO VALDIYIA. 



Tides 



Valdivia. 



therefore frequently grounded, and the constant changes 
in the channel render a pilot absolutely necessary. Just 
before arriving at point Alcones the vessel must be kept a 
little to port, to head for point Agua del Obispo, but never 
to the eastward of the line joining the two points ; when 
near enough the latter point, the coast is kept about 84 
yards distant, avoiding the ground at the confluence of river 
Cutipai, which is low and marshy. The right bank must be 
followed until point Palo del Diablo bears S. 52° E., when 
keep to starboard and head for that point ; thus the channel 
will be followed, clearing Oancahual bank and that off the 
estuary of Estancilla. The minimum depth at high water 
will be from 2 to 2J fathoms. 

When off point Palo del Diablo, which will be recognized 
by a red cliff to its right, the coast must be followed at a 
distance of about 82 yards ; after passing the mouth of the 
Oantera,that is, the high coast to starboard, the vessel must 
stand for the southern part of Mota island, which must be 
passed within 110 yards, then gradually steer from the right 
bank to the center of the river. 

After passing the mouth of the river Guacamayo, the 
center of El Islote channel must be kept; the town of Val- 
divia will then be in sight, but it cannot be reached on a 
direct course, on account of a bank which obstructs the 
passage between El Islote and the confluence of the river 
Oruces. 

The center of El Islote channel must be followed ; to the 
northward of it the principal branch will be again entered ; 
a good lookout must be kept for the banks which make into 
the channel from the ET. and S. part of the island ; it is best 
to keep from the main bank a distance of about J the width 
of the channel. Vessels can anchor anywhere to the north- 
ward of El Islote, where there are no banks or dangers. 

If going into the river Oruces, after passing the Guaca- 
mayo, keep to port, to the entrance of the river; if not 
drawing over 9 feet, the center of the river can be kept. 

It is high water, full and change, at Oancaguel, 32 feet 
above the sea, at ll h 15 m ; rise and fall, 4.3 feet; at Valdi- 
via, 60 feet above the sea, ll h 40 m , rise and fall 3.9 feet. 

Valdivia was founded in 1552 by Don Pedro de Valdivia; 
in 1599 it was destroyed by the Araucanians; it was rebuilt 



CALLA-CALL 1 RIVEE. 149 

in 1644, but did not flourish until 1850 ; it experienced a 
conflagration and terrible earthquakes in 1737 and 1837. In 
1850 was the first arrival of the German colonists, who, 
with the addition of subsequent emigration, have raised it 
to its present state of prosperity. It has become a center 
of export, and would grow without obstacles if the Germans 
agreed with the natives. 

The town has a picturesque aspect, built as it is on undu- 
lating ground 36 feet above the river, which preserves it 
from inundations. The houses are good; the population 
about 7,000. 

From Valdivia the river takes the name Calla-Calla, and Ca ^ er Calla 
runs nearly east and west. Navigation is possible for ves- 
sels drawing 8 feet as far as Arique, 23| miles 1 from Corral ; 
it is navigable for boats to a distance of nearly 45 miles ; its 
breadth is variable, the shores are high, and the water deep ; 
the current is sveak, and the tides are felt as far as Arique; 
there are some banks, but with a pilot and a good chart the 
navigation is not dangerous. At present the commerce does 
not extend higher than Valdivia, but it is to be supposed 
that the emigration will develop the riches of the entire ter- 
ritory. 

The flood counteracts the current of the river entirely as 
far as Arique, and partially to Chincuin, a little more than 
1 mile beyond. The ordinary force of the current near Val- 
divia is 1 knot, but in some places it reaches a velocity of 
2J; the ebb is always somewhat stronger. In the winter 
the flood is only felt in the river for 2 or 3 miles ; during 
the freshets there is only a rise of the water ; in some cases 
as much as 16 feet, and the water, which is generally clear 
as crystal, becomes muddy. The current of the river runs 
about 6 knots above Arique. 

The Calla-Calla springs from the deep lake Eeiiihue, in 
latitude 39° 45' N., and longitude 72° 21' W. The latter is 
situated at the foot of the valcano of the same name, 432 feet 
above the sea. The length of the river is nearly 73 miles ; 
its only tributary worthy of mention is the river Quinchilca. 

It is high water, full and change, at Arique at l h 40 m , at Tides 
Chincuin l h 50 m ; rise 1.9 feet at Arique, and 1.3 at Chincuin. 

Teja island, which forms a delta at the confluence of the island of Tej* 

or VrIgdzugIs 

rivers Calla-Calla and Cruces, is limited to the north by the 



150 



FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 



River Cruces. 



River Caucau. 



river Caucau j it is large, fertile, inhabited, and cultivated. 
Situated opposite Valdivia, it is the site of the factories 
whose products are exported from the town. 

The river Cruces empties into the river Yaldivia about 1 
mile to the southward of the town ; the confluence is called 
the Palillo. 

This river has its source on the northern slopes of the 
volcano Villarica ; it is only navigable from a point called 
Panul to port Cruces, and then only by crafts drawing 5 
feet. From there a vessel may draw from 6 to 7 feet. The 
schooner la Janequeo, drawing 12 feet, ascended to within 
13 miles of Palillo, the junction of the rivers Cruces and 
Pelchuquin. At that point the Cruces is barred by a bank 
with 7 feet of water on it. 

The currents in this river are not strong; the flood -tide 
runs about J knot and the ebb 1. At springs the rise is 3 
feet, and during neaps 2.7 feet ; it is felt as far as the ham- 
let or port Cruces, 17 miles from Palillo, in latitude 39° 36' 
31" S., and 73° 08' W. longitude. The maximum rise at this 
place is 2.9 feet ; the freshets deepen the water temporarily 
to 8 and 9 feet. 

The banks of the Cruces are generally less elevated than 
those of the Calla-Calla, and it has numerous tributaries. 
At a point called Tres Bocas de Cruces the river splits in 
two branches and forms the island of JBialejo; it also re- 
ceives two water-courses. On the upper Cruces, which has 
been abandoned by the Araucanians, is the town San Jose 
de Mariquina, founded in 1850. 

From port Cruces the river runs N". 19° E. nearly parallel to 
the coast, from which it is separated by a chain of mountains. 

The river Caucau joins the Cruces with the river Yaldivia, 
leaving the island of Teja to the westward ; the current fol- 
lows the tide, running alternately from one river to the 
other. Its length, from N W. to SE., is If miles ; its breadth 
varies between 130 and 297 feet, and it has from 2J to 3J 
fathoms of water over muddy bottom. The banks are low 
and overgrown with trees ; the current has generally a ve- 
locity of 1 knot. Near the most elevated banks of the island, 
at a place called Coihues, under the largest trees, is a sunken 
rock, but it is so close to the shore that it is not dangerous. 

Vessels wishing to pass from the river Valdivia to the 



TRES BOCAS DE FUTA. 151 

river Cruces pass through this channel instead of going to 
Palillo; it has been passed by vessels drawiug 12 feet. 

The Cutipai, a tributary of the river Valdivia, 2 J miles River cutipai, 
to the northward of its mouth, is a small estuary filled and 
emptied by the tide. Boats can run up for 3J miles to the 
village of Cutipai, to which it owes its only importance. It 
is high water, full and change, at the village at ll h 15 m ; rise 
2.6 feet. 

About 1J miles to the southward of the confluence of the Pu ^? s Bocas de 
river Valdivia with the river Cruces is the channel of Gua- 
camayo, and 1J miles to the westward of it the channel of 
Cautera. These channels lead to the confluence, called the 
Tres Bocas de Futa, at the same time forming the island of 
Guacamayo. At their junction they receive the waters of 
the Futa, and together these three water-courses take the 
name Torna Galeones, which is in reality but the mouth of 
the river Valdivia. 

The many arms of these rivers render the Tres Bocas de 
Futa very picturesque. On the east side is the small island 
Valverde, which is always inundated by the rise in the 
winter. To the southward, between it and the continent, 
the channel is only 82 feet wide and the depth 4.2 feet ; this 
island must be kept to the eastward. The passage to the 
westward has no difficulty for boats, and can even be used 
by vessels drawing 12 feet, when they have pilots. 

It is high water, full and change, at Tres Bocas at ll h 30 m ; Tides. 
rise varies between 2 and 4 feet, according to the age of the 
moou. 

The river Guacamayo, which unites the river Valdivia River Guaca- 
with Torna Galeones, is a little over 3 miles long; its breadth may0 * 
is more than 430 feet, excepting at an elbow, where it is 
only 250. 

In the middle of its course, where it runs nearly X. and 
S., it receives the river Angachilla, and then splits, forming 
the island of los Venados, which is 1J miles long and 820 
feet wide. This island also runs N. and S., and is very low ; 
an estuary cuts through its southern portion, and banks 
covered by aquatic plants run from the X. point nearly to 
the river Angachilla. 

At the point of junction of this river with the Guacamayo 
there is a mud-bank with 6 feet of water on it. which runs 



152 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

from the northern extremity of the confluence nearly to the 
island of Guacamayo, which is on the western bank of the 
river of the same name. The passage between them is, very 
narrow, and has only 1J fathoms at low water, on the side 
of the island. This is the shoalest part in the branch of 
the river Valdivia, called Torna Galeones. A vessel draw- 
ing from 11 to 13 feet can pass this spot only during high 
tide. The depth of the river Guacamayo and its western 
branch is often more than 8 fathoms. The rise of the tide 
averages about 4.2 feet, and its strength between 1 and 2 
knots. 

The eastern channel of the Guacamayo, to the eastward 
of the island of Los Venados, cannot be used by vessels 
drawing more than 8.2 feet. 
River Anga- The Angachilla river, 7 miles long, as well as its tribu- 
taries, is subject to the tides. On its banks are wood-sheds 
and some villages. For half of its course it is 570 feet wide. 
Vessels drawing 8 feet can use it. The current is weak, and 
its tributaries are navigable. 
River Cantera. The river Oantera, at the Guacamayo, carries the waters 
of the Rio Valdivia, during the ebb, to the junction of the 
Tres Bocas with the Rio Torna Galeones. The strength of 
the current varies between 1 and 2 knots. The flood carries 
the waters through the same channel in an opposite direction, 
but with less rapidity. 

The river Oantera is at the least 8 feet deep at low water, 
and in many places there are 6 fathoms. Its length is 
almost 4 miles. The banks are high. In its northern part 
is Valdez island. The rise of the tide is 4.2 feet. 
G?acam?o y Tat ^ ne Oantera river with the Guacamayo forms the island 
ands. Guacamayo, and d'el Rey with it and the Rio Torna 

Galeones ; some small rivulets from these islands empty 
into the Oantera ; there is considerable wood here, and some 
timber-sheds. D'el Rey is covered with high hills ; its few 
cultivated fields do not raise sufficient nourishment for the 
inhabitants. 
River Futa. After the rivers Cruces and Quinchilca, the river Futa is 
the most important tributary of the Valdivia ; it has many 
tributaries of its own. 

Vessels drawing 5 feet can ascend the river during high 
water to within J mile of Futa, which is about 13 miles 



RIVER TORNA GALEONES. 153 

from the mouth, in latitude 40° 00' 20" 8., and longitude 
73° 10' 06" W. 

The tide runs up to Futa during the summer; vessels 
drawing 6.5 feet can only go as far as Pichi, 6J miles from 
the mouth. 

The current of the flood is not very strong in the lower 
river ; and that of the ebb varies between £ and 1 mile, 
excepting during the winter, when the currents are stronger, 
and the water often rises from 13 to 26 feet. 

The river Futa empties into the Torna Galeones at the 
Tres Bocas. All this country is covered with wood, which 
is cultivated ; also with coal, which is not now worked, but 
is often found on the surface. 

It is high water, full and change, at Futa at 12 h , rise 0.2 TideB - 
to 0.3 feet. 

The river Torna Galeones is 10J miles long from the Tres Gaieo^es. 
Bocas to the sea ; but its length, united with that of the 
Guacamayo, is greater than that of- the Valdivia; there is 
more water in the latter and the navigation easier. 

From Tres Bocas the river runs S. for 3 miles ; here its 
breadth varies between 820 and 1,360 feet, but the depth 
which averages 2J fathoms at low tide increases to 15. The 
course of the river lies generally between high rocky hills or 
thick woods. In the interior the country is varied by high 
mountains. This river is seldom used by vessels. The bot- 
tom is tolerable even in this part of the river, being of hard 
stone and mud. There are no indications of dangerous 
rocks. 

The flood and ebb tides run with a variable velocity from 
1 to 2 knots. The rise varies with the age of the moon, 
from 4.2 to 4.5 feet. 

From the narrow part mentioned the river runs W. for 
1,640 yards, then AYS W. for 2,150 yards, to the estuary de 
la Eomasa ; in the latter reach it receives the river Xagui- 
lan. The junction is called Poco Comer. From this June" 
tion to the estuary the middle of the channel, in 2 fathoms, 
must be kept, as the banks are not steep-to. 

From the estuary the river runs NjSTW. for 2f miles, and 
empties into the large bay of Corral. This latter part is 
the most difficult ; it is full of rocks and banks, which neces- 
sitate a pilot for all vessels drawing more than 13 feet. 



154 FROM CHILOE TO VALDIVIA. 

From the estuary de la Bomasa the breadth varies be- 
tween 1,640 and 3,280 feet. The banks are alternately 
rocky and muddy, and covered with reeds. The depth va- 
ries with the width, but the nature of the bottom remains 
the same. 

The mouth of the Torna Galeones has been described. 
In its center is a bank with 8 feet over it at low tide ; on 
either side are from 11 to 14 feet of water. The two shores 
are foul ; the northern is flat with bottom of a muddy sand ; 
the southern is bordered by a chain of rocks extending out 
110 yards, some parts of which are uncovered at low water. 

About \ mile ESE. of Puerto Claro, on the K side, is El 
Huapi island; it is oblong and wooded. 

At 1^ miles ESE. from Puerto Glaro is the island Li- 
guina, rocky and inaccessible except on its KE. end ; it is 
flat and without trees, other than a few apple-trees. The 
space between it and Huapi island is full of rocks and 
banks. Its SW. coast .is foul to a distance of 164 feet. 

The navigable channel runs to the south of Liguina ; it is 
656 feet wide and bounded to the southward by a hard stone 
cay which uncovers at half-tide and is united with the bank 
that fills the cove back of the cay ; all this part is thickly 
wooded. From here to the estuary de la Eomasa the mid- 
dle of the channel must be followed. 

From this description it will be seen that after the pas- 
sage of Liguina the navigation of the Torna Galeones is 
easy, with exception of the Tres Bocas de Futa, where a 
pilot is indispensable. Vessels of more than 12 feet draught 
cannot attempt the passage. 
River Naguiian. The river Naguilan is the largest tributary of the Torna 
Galeones ; there are a few huts of wood-cutters on its banks. 
It is navigable for 3| miles for vessels drawing 5 feet; they 
go up to the small village of IsTaguilan to bring down the 
alerce. In the winter vessels of 8 feet draught can ascend ; 
the water often rises 13 feet at that time. The rise of the 
tide is 9 feet. 

As the attention of commerce will probably be drawn to 
this territory on account of its rich forests, it has been 
deemed desirable to give this short description of it. 



CHAPTER VI. 

FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 
Variation from 19° 03' to 17° 15' easterly in 1876. Increasing annually V 30". 

The 6 miles of coast between point Juan Latorre and le P° int Lonco1 - 
Bonifacio head recedes a little, throwing out three small 
points, which are separated by sand-beaches. The first of 
these, which is immediately to the N. of Juan Latorre, is 
called Loncollen ; it is steep like the former and surrounded 
by rocks which extend out 800 yards ; to the northward 
there is a bad landing-place for boats, having the same 
name. 

Following is Mission poiut, rugged and surmounted by a 
small hill ; it is surrounded by rocks which extend out 800 
yards. To the northward of it is another landing-place, 
but it is worse than that at Loncollen. A mission was 
founded here in 1777. 

From Mission point to Bonifacio head the coast runs in a Point Calfuco - 
little to the eastward, forming a semicircular sandy cove, 
with some outlying rocks. The principal one of these is 
point Calfuco ; on it are the ruins of a mission for the con- 
version of the Indians. From this a horse-path leads, in 
two hours, to the mouth of the river Cutipai. 

Bonifacio head is a steep promontory, 2 miles long N. and heS.* n * f a c 10 
S. ; its approaches are without danger. It lies 8 miles N. 
H3° E. from Gouzalo head ; J mile from it there are from 11 
to 13 fathoms of water ; bottom of large stones ; at 2 miles 
the depth increases to 22 and 26 fathoms with sandy bottom. 
The upper part of the hill is thickly wooded. To the east- 
ward there are mountains from 2,000 to 2,300 feet high. 
The coast between Morro Bonifacio and Mayq.uillahue bay 
is only accessible by boats. 

There is a small cove immediately to the northward of Roncacove - 
Bonifacio head, called Ronca, which is much frequented by 
fishermen, who report that the landing is excellent. 

* The explorations on the coast of Araucauia -were made by Captains 
J. E. Lopez and F. Vidal Gormaz, Chilian navy. 



156 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

Lican cove. Licari cove is half-way between Bonifacio and Mayquilia- 

hue ; the intermediate coast appears to be steep and clear. 

chanchan point The low, small point 11 miles from Bonifacio is called Chan- 

and cove. ' 

chan point ; it shelters a creek of the same name from south- 
erly winds, which is in latitude 39° 34' 20" S. and longitude 
73° 19' 09" W. According to the coasters it offers good 
shelter to small vessels and a good landing for boats. 
Mayquiiiahue The southern extremity of point Mayquillahue, until re- 
cently called Ohanchan, is a little more than 4 miles to the 
northward of Ohanchan point ; it is 1 mile long N. and S. ; 
some rocks extend from it on the K, S., and W. sides. The 
islet and reefs to the northward extend at least § of a mile, 
in a MW. direction ; they must be looked out for when 
running into the anchorage. The northern of these islets is 
6 miles N. 5° E. from point Ohanchan. 

Point Mayquillahue gives its name to a large bay which 
opens to the eastward ; it is 4 miles wide and 2 deep. 

In the southern part of this bay is a cove, affording shel- 
ter from S. to W. winds \ mile E. of the northern islet, in 
from 3 to 6 fathoms of water, bottom sand and shell strewn 
with large stones. The cove is entirely open to K*. winds, 
which render it untenable. A shipwreck which took place 
in 1838, during one of these winds, probably led to the re- 
port that the holding-ground was not good ; the islands en- 
large the anchorage, and render it better than that of 
Queule. 

The river Mehuin or Lingue empties in the eastern part 
of this bay ; it is navigable by boats for 15 or 16 miles ; 
its bed is full of large fallen trees and the current runs from 
3 to 5 knots an hour. The banks are fertile and inhabited 
by the native Indians, who will sometimes furnish provi- 
sions ; but their acquisition often leads to trouble with these 
unsubmissive people. 

The mouth of the Mehuin is crossed by a chain of reefs 
which start from the S. point and make its entrance dan- 
gerous. The depth on the bar is 2 feet at low and 7 at high 
water. 

At the northern extremity of the bay is a small creek with 
a sand-beach, called El Mariscadero, formed by the projec- 
tion to the westward of point Ronca. Reports to the con- 
trary, it would seem that this cove was even more danger- 



QUEULE BAY. 



157 



ous with N. wind than the cove of Mayquillahue and Queule, 
when considering the gyration of the winds on this part of 
the continent, and that there is no obstacle to the entrance 
of the sea. 

Vessels anchored at Mayquillahue should take refuge at 
Corral on the first indications of a norther. 

Point Eonca, which separates the bay of Mayquillahue *££ Ronca or 
from that of Queule, appears like an island, but is connected 
with the continent by a chain of hills. The southern part 
is called point Loberia and the northern point Ohoros. 

The bav of Queule is formed to the northward by point Queule bay and 

^ " cove. 

Nigue and to the southward by point Eonca ; it is 4J miles 
wide and 1 deep. 

The cove of Queule, in the northern part of the bay, is 
named after the river which empties into it ; the mouth of 
the river is in latitude 39° 25' 20" S. and longitude 73° 16' 
06" W. 

The depth of the bay is moderate ; the bottom is of fine, hard 
sand ; in the cove there are from 3 to 5 fathonls ; the best an- 
chorage is in 4§ fathoms on the following bearings : The bar- 
ren ravine of the southern mountain, S. 21° W. ; the center of 
the barracks at the mouth of the river, S. 6° E. ; the NW. ex- 
tremity of point Eonca, S. 70° W. Small vessels can anchor 
a little nearer to the shore, in 4 fathoms. The anchorage is 
sufficiently sheltered from the SW. swell, but it must be left 
on the first signs of an approaching norther. It is imprudent 
to attempt to ride out gales from the northward and west- 
ward, excepting during the summer. During fresh winds the 
sea breaks in the entire bay in 6 to 7 fathoms of water. It is 
best to go to port Yaldivia until the bad weather is over. 

In going in or out of this bay it is necessary to give Oho- Martinez rock. 
ros a berth of 328 yards, as a small, rocky bank, called Mar- 
tinez, with 2 fathoms of water over it, lies 240 yards to the 
northward of the point ; the depth of water over it is irreg- 
ular ; there is a passage between it and the point with from 
6 to 7 fathoms. 

The remainder of the rocky coast is steep and without 
danger ; this is not the case on the shores of the river, 
which are very low and covered with alluvial deposits. 

The cove of Queule has become the key of operations Description. 
against the Araucanians ; it owes its importance solely to 



158 



FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 



Directions. 



Tides. 



Queule river. 



this fact, as it is no better than any of the other inlets 
along the coasts. 

On its shores are store-honses for merchandise, barracks 
for the troops, and boats belonging to the government and 
private parties 5 fresh and other provisions can be obtained, 
brought here by the coasters. The water is excellent, from 
a ravine to the southward of the mouth of the river. Bal- 
last is thrown overboard about 1 mile to the northward of 
the anchorage. 

During clear weather the bay of Queule can be easily 
recognized by point Eonca, which seems to be an island ; 
by point Nigue, which is larger and more extended, and by 
the two naked islands to the northward of point Mayquil- 
lahue. The entrance is easy, even during foggy weather, 
which is very frequent during all seasons, as the depth of 
water is very regular to a distance of 2 miles from the 
coast. 

It is high water, full and change, at Queule at 10 h 28 m , 
rise 5 feet. 

Qaeule river has become of some importance since the 
occupation of the coast of Araucania ; its bar is only impass- 
able with winds from the K to W.; it is, however, generally 
smooth ; at low tide there is but 1 foot of water on it ; dur- 
ing high water vessels drawing from 4 to 5 feet can cross, 
the depth being then 6 feet. They are guided by the stakes 
placed at the ends of the banks between which the river 
empties. 

The bar is formed by two sand-banks, one of which starts 
from the southern bank and the other from the small point 
to the northward ; the latter ends in a line of rocks which 
runs into the end of the creek, and, approaching the S. bank, 
only leaves a channel of from 130 to 165 feet. After the 
bar is crossed the depth increases from 6 to 9 feet at the 
sandy point which forms the mouth of the river to the 
northward ; an isolated rock which is in the center of the 
river must be left to starboard ; from it the liver enlarges, 
but in its center there is a large sand-bank, leaving a chan- 
nel for boats on either side 5 the northern channel, which is 
alongside the bank, is the longest, but the deeper 5 both 
can be fordei at low tide. From this bank a small, rocky 
point will be seen, which, in line with the isolated rock, 



RIVER TOLTEN. 159 

indicates the southern channel. This point is passed close 
aboard, and then the middle of the river followed to the 
estuary of Catrehue, which is on the left bank, a little more 
than 1 mile from the cove of Queule, near which is the mis- 
sion of Queule. To land, the river must be ascended a little 
farther, leaving a small island, which is in the center of the 
channel, to starboard. Boats land just before reaching this, 
at the mouth of the river Piren, which empties into the 
Queule on ^ts left bank. 

From this point for 3 J miles, to the settlement of Cayulpu, 
the channel, with a minimum depth of 2 feet at low water, 
is very tortuous and approaches the sea. The settlement is 
only 656 yards from the sea, separated, from it by sand- 
dunes, which are constantly encroaching on the river-bed. 
From Cayulpu the depth is between 1J and 3 fathoms, and 
the current is hardly perceptible at the port or fort de los 
Boldos, 17$ miles from the cove of Queule and 2J miles 
from the settlement of Tolten, which can be reached by a 
road. 

The river Queule then runs parallel with the Tolten, and 
continues to be navigable for more than 9 miles j its prin- 
cipal tributary is the river Yoroa, which is equally navi- 
gable. The current of the river Queule is the same during 
flood and ebb, and varies between 1J and 3 miles. 

From Queule creek to the point called Nigue by the Poim ^i gU e or 
natives, the coast is bordered by sand-dunes. The western 
part of the point is of medium height and thickly wooded ; 
its shores are rocky and bordered, by some hillocks ; it is 
formed, by a mountain of the same name, which extends a 
little more than 1 mile to the eastward and is separated 
from the mountains of the coast by the river Queule. 

From this point to the river Tolten the coast is a low 
semicircular beach, backed by sand-dunes. 

The mouth of the Tolten river, situated in 39° 16' 50" S. River Toiten. 
latitude, and. 73° 16' W. longitude, was mistaken for the 
river Cura by Fitz-Roy ; it is 4J miles N. 3° E. from point 
Nigue; the entrance is hardly perceptible at a distance of 
1 mile. During the dry season, from January to April, it 
is from 260 to 300 feet wide; the surrounding country is 
low, formed of uniform sand-dunes, with the exception of 
one, which is J mile N. 71° E. from the mouth. The coast 

\ 



160 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

is without shelter, washed by the waves of the ocean. The 
river deposits considerable sand-banks at its mouth, which 
are continually shifted by the sea, making a bad bar and 
shifting channels, with a constant line of breakers. There 
are generally, however, two passes ; the first opens S. 56° 
W., and the second N. 50° W.; their depth varies between 

1 and If fathoms. Steamers drawing 6 feet have entered. 
A pilot is indispensable. At the entrance for 1J hours the 
current of the ebb attains a velocity of 7 knots ; it never 
ceases, and the flood only tends to weaken the velocity of 
the descending waters. The current inside averages about 

2 knots. After crossing the bar, and before arriving at the 
narrowest part of the mouth, there is a small bank of peb- 
bles with 6 feet of water over it, in the center of the chan- 
nel ; the depth then increases suddenly to 2 J and afterward 
to 5J fathoms. From this bank the middle of the channel 
is followed to a small, rocky, and remarkable point on the 
left bank, which must be borrowed on to avoid some sand- 
banks on the opposite shore, until the entrance of the river 
is shut out by a small point on the right bank. There are 
here some sand-banks, probably shifting, which dry at low 
water, and occupy nearly halt of the river. The river then 
takes a turn, after which the middle of the channel is kept, 
and then the right bank. 

About 1 mile from the first elbow there is an extensive 
sand-bank on the left bank, marked by trees; after passing 
it, and when the K. part of the south bank bears ENE., it 
must be followed to the entrance of the river Catrileuvu and 
to the village of Tolten, off which vessels can anchor 110 
yards from the shore, with 3 to 3| fathoms at low tide' and 
good holding-ground. 

Farther up there is still a good depth, but a pilot is ne- 
cessary. The reconnaissance of this part of the river is 
incomplete. 

This river has terrible freshets during the winter months. 
The water rises over 9 feet and sweeps everything with it. 
In the description the depth of water has been given at its 
lowest point. The river Tolten has its source in the western 
part of a lagoon called by the Indians Larquen ; it has a 
circumference of 40 miles, and is situated at the foot of the 
volcano of Villarica. 



VILLAGE OF TOLTEN. 161 

It is high water, fall and change, at 10 b 28 m ; rise at the Tidea - 
mouth, 5 feet. 

The mission of Tolten is separated from the village by wa&m orroitTn* 
the river Catrileuvu, which can be ascended by vessels 
drawing 6 feet. The village, located between the Tolten and 
a large lagoon, is in the middle of fertile lands, overgrown 
by excellent wood of all kinds. It was founded in 1867. 

A road 45 miles in length, following the shore, unites the 
mission of Tolten with that of Imperial ; another road unites 
Tolten with Queule by the Cerro de Eigue ; it has a bad 
pass, but the distance is accomplished on horseback in three 
hours ; the road by Los Boldos and the river Queule requires 
hours. 

Off the coast in clear weather the summits of the Andes 
can be seen ; it is said that the volcano of Villarica, 60 miles 
to the eastward of Tolten, is visible that distance to seaward. 

The coast between the river Tolten and the river Imperial Coa8t 
is low, a sandy shore backed by abrupt and pointed cliffs. 
The Cordillera of the coast is from 5 to 10 miles distant, ex- 
cepting at a point called Puancho. where it sends to the sea 
a spur from 150 to 300 feet high. Several rivers empty on 
this part of the coast. 

The mouth of Tenellenchico river is 6 J miles N. 16° W. ch ™l er Yenellen - 
from the river Tolten, in latitude 39° 10' 27" S., and longi- 
tude 73° IS' 5" W. For 3 miles this coast is covered with 
small sand-dunes, then it becomes stony. 

This river has its source in some lagoons about 3 miles 
from the coast j its banks at the entrance are remarkable; it 
is a rapid torrent in the winter, and nearly dry in the 
summer. 

The Euca Cnra river is 2h miles K 10° AY. from Tenel- riv ^ ca Cura 
lenchico river, in latitude 39° 07' 50" X., and longitude 73° 
18' 30" W, The intermediate coast keeps its rocky aspect ; 
on the beach at the south side of the mouth is a small hill. 
This small river is without importance to navigation ; it 
has its source in the Cordillera of the coast in the middle 
of a marsh 7 miles in the interior. 

There are some small hills about 3 or 1 miles back from 
this coast ; at their foot is an Indian village. 

The mouth of the river Chille is in latitude 39° 00' 09" S., Kiyer Chille * 
and longitude 73° 19' 30" \Y., 16J miles from Tolten and 8 
He 



162 FR03I VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

miles N. 4° W. from the river Buca Cura. The two rivers 
are separated by almost uninterrupted high cliffs; but 1 
mile on either side of the river Chille the coast is low and 
covered with small sand-hills. During the summer the mouth 
of the river can be forded, but at other times boats are 
necessary to pass it. It is navigable in the interior, and its 
banks are fertile and populated. The Cordillera of the coast, 
in which it has its source, is 10 miles from, and runs parallel 
to, the coast. 
point ei Barco Point El Barco de Puancho is in latitude 38° 54/ 00" 

<le Puancho. 

S. and longitude 73° 22' 10" W., 6J miles N. 18° W. of 
the river Chille. It does not project into the sea, and 
is remarkable for its cliffs, 260 feet high. Paancho rock, 
called El Barco by the natives, steep on all sides, is 656 
feet to the westward of the point. This is, properly speak- 
ing, the point, but the name is given to a stretch of coast 
4 miles long, which descends gradually to the southward 
and prolongs its cliffs to the river Chille. 

KiverBudi. The river Budi is 5 miles N. 22° W. from El Barco; 

it is only the mouth of a salt-water creek, situated between 
the Cordillera of the coast and the sea. Its entrance is in 
latitude 38° 49' 26" S., longitude 73° 24' 30" W.; after pass- 
ing for about 2 miles between hills of moderate height, it 
opens into the lagoon of Budi or Golem. 

Its breadth at the entrance is about 290 feet ; it is deep, 
and the tides penetrate to the lagoon ; during the dry season 
it can be forded at the mouth, there being but 2 J to 3 feet 
of water, but the ford is dangerous, as it is reached by the 
swell from the ocean. The Budi river cannot be entered 
from the sea ; to the northward of its mouth is the wreck 
of a small steamer. 

The SW. swell washes the sand to the entrance of the 
river Budi and closes it completely from February to April, 
and the waters of the lagoon bank up and inundate the fer- 
tile valleys of the neighborhood. A channel is then cut in 
the sand which arrests the water. This is the occasion of a 
great festival, with an abundant supply of fish for the Indi- 
ans. The lagoon is 6 miles long X. and S. and 4 miles wide 
from E to W.; it is full of islands, and deep, like the river. 

choigi head. Six miles N. 22° W. from El Barco is Cholgi head, the end 
of the mountain chain which separates the rivers Budi and 
Imperial, whose mouth is about 1J miles from the former. 



RIVER IMPERIAL. 163 

Cholgi and Trugue head, which is 1 mile to the NXE., are 
390 feet high, and are excellent landmarks for the entrance 
to the river Imperial. 

The river Imperial was discovered bv Pastene in 1544; ^, iver . imperial 

r ' ' or Cautm. 

Valdivia founded a city, called Imperial, on its banks, 20 
miles from its mouth, but it was destroyed by the Araucanians. 
The river takes the name of Oautin above the ruins of the city. 
The mouth, which is 433 yards wide, in latitude 38° 47' 45" 
S. and longitude 73° 25' W., opens to the SW. It is diffi- 
cult to make out from seaward; at first there appears to be 
but a dangerous coast beaten by the breakers, which gener- 
ally extend out £ of a mile from the shore, and, during bad 
weather, for 1£ miles. On looking more attentively, two 
places will be seen where the sea does not break, and where 
it is less agitated during bad weather; these are the chan- 
nels; they are formed by sand-points, which shift from one 
tide to the other. The Indians assert that the mouth has 
moved to the southward ; in fact, the river ruus parallel to 
the coast for 3 miles, before emptying into the sea, from 
which it is only separated by sand-hills less than 1 mile wide. 
The mouth of the river has the shape of a cornucopia whose 
outer portion terminates at Oholgi hill, on the left shore ; 
the inner part is terminated by a sand-point on the right 
bank, the end of the cornucopia beiug turned to the north- 
ward. The two points do not project outside of the coast- 
line. 

The waters of the river coming from the N. are arrested 
by Cholgi hill, and, turniug to the SW., break through the 
sand, which, coming from the south, forms a bar with two 
channels. Inside of the bar the deepest water is found in 
a small indentation under the Cholgi named El Caleton ; the 
bar runs N. and S., the channels opening at either end, 
about 500 feet apart. The first, examined in 1845, 18(56, and 
1869, seems to undergo little change : it has 12 feet at low 
water and 18 at high, with a breadth of not less than 500 
feet ; it opens nearly WSW. from the foot of Cholgi head. 
The second has 6 feet at low water and 12 at high; its direc- 
tion is about W. by S. from Trugue head: it was examined 
in 1869. These chaunels unite at El Caleton, along Chogli 
head, which must be passed as close as possible, as a sharp 
turn has to be made here to enter the river. 



164 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

Vessels should always have a river pilot when crossing 
the bar. After the bar is passed, the river, 433 yards wide, 
runs nearly N. and S. for 5J miles, to the confluence of the 
• estuary Mocho, with a depth varying from 3 to 5J fathoms. 
The left shore is a swampy plain, bordered by banks which 
contract the channel ; the right shore, which is covered with 
sand-dunes, is clear. A vessel should anchor before arriv- 
ing at the confluence, in 4 fathoms, with her head to the 
promontory which separates the two water-courses. The 
estuary Mocho, 218 yards wide, is navigable for at least 4 
miles ; its depth at low water is 4 feet ; the channel is tortu- 
ous ; there are some houses along its banks. 

From the confluence, the Imperial is clear of banks and 
380 yards wide ,• it runs east for 5 miles, with a minimum 
depth of 3 fathoms, to the island Dona Ines, which must be 
left to the northward. After which the river flows between 
ranges of hills, and is clear and deep for 7 miles to Maule 
bank, which takes up two-thirds of the river; a small chan- 
nel on the S7 side can be passed at high tide by vessels 
drawing 12 feet. There is no danger for the next 3 miles, 
at the end of which is the ruins of the city Imperial; here, 
behind an island, which was the last place held by the Span- 
iards, are 2J fathoms of water. 

In 1869 the Chilians had not passed this point, as the Ar- 
aucanians of this locality were more hostile than those of 
the coast. 

Tne freshets have little influence on the currents of this 
river, which vary between 2 and 4 knots. As the recon- 
noissance of which the results are here given was made 
during the dry season, the depths given can be considered 
as the minimum ; therefore, a vessel drawing 12 feet can go 
up to the ruins of Imperial. A vessel drawing 15 feet has 
to stop at Maule bank. 

A mission founded in 1852, and tolerated by the Arauca- 
nians, is located about 2 miles N". 48° E. of point Trugue. 
The road from Tolten ends here. The Fathers occupy them- 
selves in cultivating the land. The fiercest and most indom- 
itable of the Araucanians are fouud between the rivers 
Tolten and Imperial. They are numerous, and, aided by a 
fine climate, they cultivate this rich land. 



CAPE TIRUA. 



1G5 



Cautia head. 



Point Manuel. 



Cape Tirua. 



It is high water, full and change, at about ll 11 : the rise Tides - 
at the mouth is 5 feet, and opposite the ruins from 2 to 3 
feet. 

Cautin head is a barren and rugged promontory 328 feet 
high, and clear to seaward ; it is 9 miles X. 22° W. from 
Oholgi point. The intermediate coast is low and backed by 
sand-dunes, the highest of which is half-way between the 
points ; the beach is sandy and slightly undulating. 

The coast continues N. 4° W. for 11 miles, clean and rug- 
ged, to point Manuel, which is also 328 feet high : it is over- 
looked by a high mountain chain called the Cordillera de 
los Pinales, in which the celebrated Araucaria or piiion tree 
is found. 

Cape Tirua is a little more than 7 miles from point Man- 
uel ; it projects well to the westward, where it ends in a 
small island ; it is the nearest point of the coast to Mocha 
island, with which the Indians, from the river Tirua to the 
northward of the cape, communicate by rafts, balsas, and 
canoes. 

The road de los Eiscos, 20 miles long, and the shortest 
connecting Tirua with Imperial, passes by cape Tirua over 
precipices and through deep gorges. 

The other road connecting these points, called Pinales, 
traverses that part of the Cordillera where the trees of this 
name abound ; it runs up the valley of the Tirua for 9 miles ; 
it is longer than the former but less difficult. 

The channel between the island Mocha and the contineut Mocha channel. 
is 18 miles wide; it is cleau, with a depth of from 9J to 20 
fathoms over a sandy bottom ; the flood runs through it, 
setting to the northward at the rate of 1 knot ; the ebb sets 
SSW. with less strength. 

Mocha island, 1,200 feet high, is an important landmark 
for navigators ; it is about 7 miles long and 3 wide ; it 
should not be approached too close, as there are dangerous 
rocks off its S. and TV", coasts ; the most distant are 3 miles 
S. of the island. These rocks are particularly daugerous 
during the flood, as it sets over them coming from the SW., 
and then bends to the northward in the channel ; sometimes 
the ebb is not felt for days, then the flood is a continuous 
northerly current. The depth increases rapidly 2 miles 
from the west coast, which must be considered when ap- 



Mocha island. 



166 FROM VALDIVIA To CONCEPCION. 

proaching daring foggy weather. The fog often lasts 
several days on this coast. On the east side of the island 
the rocks do not run out farther than f mile. The an- 
chorages of Mocha are of no importance. Vessels can 
anchor on the NE. coast or near the SE. extremity, off a 
point called Anegadiza by the Spaniards. This anchorage, 
which is good during IsT. winds, is opposite to the first small 
hills in from 5 to 7 fathoms. In anchoring, a lookout must 
be kept for a bank near the coast, on which the sea does 
not always break, but it is well marked by large bunches 
of sea-weed. The other anchorage, which is tolerable dur- 
ing S. winds, is off English Creek, about 1J miles from the 
coast, and has from 12 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom. Nearer 
the land the bottom is rock. Landing is difficult, but can 
be effected when necessary. Wood can be obtained, but no 
provisions; the water, which is excellent, can only be taken 
in with great difficulty. There is much good land on the 
island which produces large quantities of vegetables and 
serves as pasture for cattle. 

Before the 18th century the island was inhabited by the 
Araucanians, who were driven from it by the Spaniards. 
During the time of Fitz-Boy it was only occupied by some 
few stray animals. At present it is visited by hunters and 
fishermen. 

Tirua bay Cape Tirua, to the ENE. of which the bay of that name 

opens, protects the latter from southerly winds but not 
from the sea ; the anchorage is always exposed to the swell, 
and the beach is so bad that even the best boats should not 
attempt to land. The river Tirua empties here. The 
Indians cross its bar in their canoes. 

Bay of Quidico, T ne bay of Quidico, or Quirico, is in latitude 38° 14/ S., 

or Quirico. j -*> 7 -t 7 

longitude 73° 27' W. After passing cape Tirua the coast 
runs in to the N.NE., afterward projecting to the NW. 
Eight miles to the northward of cape Tirua is a high point, 1 
mile long, called Neila, which trends about K, and is pro- 
longed 2 mile by a bank making out to the northward. Gen- 
erally the sea breaks over it every 8 or 10 minutes. Round- 
ing this point is the entrance to the bay of Quidico, across 
which there is always a heavy swell ; a short distance inside 
the water is always smooth. It is about If miles wide at 
the entrance, and is 1 mile deep. After passing the high 



BAY OF QUIDICO, 



167 



ands of the point is the western mouth of the river Quidico, 
which forms a delta, in front of which the sea always breaks 
heavily ; then comes a sand-beach, on which is the best 
landing. Aboat 6oQ yards to the westward of the eastern 
point of the river, at the foot of a mountain which seems 
to divide the valley into two parts, the river divides into 
two arms, one branch forming the western mouth and the 
other the eastern, which runs along the beach for 3 miles 
before emptying. 

The anchorage of steamers is E. of point Neila or Quidico, 
in 5 fathoms, bottom sand and shell ; it is sheltered on the 
south side but open to northward. 

The bay is deep to the beach, where there are 3 fathoms. 
Sailing-vessels must anchor to the northward of the point 
to be in position to get under way with northerly winds. 
The plain of the valley, on which there are some Indian 
huts, rises in a gradual but constant slope, aud is free from 
inundations from the rivers which traverse it. The sur- 
rounding hills, covered with trees, contain coal-mines, and 
the land is well adapted to cultivation. These hills are 
followed by high wooded mountains, which are a branch of 
the Cordillera de los Pinales. As the river Quidico is only 
fordable at the mouth, all the roads following the coast of 
Araucania meet at the head of the bay. This circuinstauce, 
and the fact that it is the only passable harbor between 
Lebu and Queule, gives it some importance as a military 
point. 

The Lleuleu is a small river whose waters join those of a 
lagoon emptying about 9 miles to the northward of Quidico ; 
it is nearly dry during the summer. The bar is inaccessible. 

The river Paycavi, which has its source to the N. of 
Tucapel, runs S". and S., and receives the waters of several 
lagoons or estuaries j it is not wide but tolerably deep, 
having but few fording-places; it can be navigated by 
canoes drawing from 2 to 3 feet. The Spaniards made it a 
line of defense against the Indians, aud built a number of 
forts, the ruins of which still exist ; they had a flotilla which 
crossed the bar, but that is now impassable. In the summer 
it is dry at low tide, and during high tide it is closed by an 
uninterrupted line of breakers. 



River Lleuleu. 



River PavcavL 



168 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

The coast between Quidico and Morguilla forms a semi- 
circle, with a sand-beach ; it is free from outlying dangers, 
tlie rocks indicated by Fit'z-Boy not having been found ; it 
is, nevertheless, bad, as the sea breaks for more than 1 mile 
from the beach. There are some other small estuaries 
besides the rivers Lleuleu and Paycavi. 

MorguiiiaiBi- Morguilla island is about 26 miles from point Quidico; it 
is nearly round, with a diameter of 1 mile, and is about 32 
feet high ; its soil is good ; it is almost connected with the 
continent by a sand-bank of recent formation. To the north 
and south of it are two islands frequented by sea-wolf. 
The northern islaad forms Guraco cove, which is only ac- 
cessible during very fine weather. All dangers are visible, 
and vessels can approach the island within J mile. H. B. 
M. S. Challenger was lost on this island in 1835. This loss 
was attributed to currents setting toward the land, a fact 
which was confirmed in 1868 by the observations made 
between Valdivia and the bay of Arauco by captain Mayne, 
in H. B. M. S. Nassau. 

point chimpei Between Morguilla and Bocarripe the coast curves a little 

and Lorcura. ° 

to the eastward, placing points Chimpei and Lorcura, or 
Tucapel, in full view ; f mile to the seaward of the former 
is a rock ; the latter is low, rocky, flat, and of a dark color. 

In this vicinity the interior of the country is very fertile, 
and is strewn with hills and valleys covered with wood and 
pasturage well watered. 
BocarripS nead. Bocarripe head is 2£ miles south of Lebu or Tucapel head, 
and 12 miles from Morguilla. From it point Lorcura bears 
S. 17° 30' E.; the islet near that point S. 9° 30' E., and 
Morguilla S. 8° E. 

Three small water-courses, Lorcura, Chimpei, and Curaco, 
empty between Morguilla and Bocarripe. From the latter 
to Lebu hill the coast, which is rough but clean, trends 
pentad? 1 " Tuca about north. Lebu head is 625 feet high, steep to the west- 
ward, and descends gradually toward the south. The pi- 
rate Benavides took refuge in a cave near this point during 
the war of independence. In 1835 the crew of H. B. M. S. 
Challenger camped on these heights until they were taken 
away by H. B. M. S. Blonde. The latter anchored in 27 
fathoms K 2?o W. from the head. 
port of Lebu. The cove between point Millongue to the north and Lebu 



PORT OF LEBU. 169 

bead to tbe south takes its name from tbe river Lebu, wbicb 
empties into it. It is 1 mile wide and 2 long, in latitude 
37° 35' 20" S. and longitude 73^ 40' 04" W. Tbe deptb of 
water is 7 fatboms over a sandy bottom, wbicb sboals grad- 
ually to tbe beacb. Lebu bead and a plateau of rocks, wbicb 
extends out from it for J mile to tbe nortbward, protects 
it from tbe S\Y. swell. Tbe best aucborage for a small 
steamer is in 3J fatboms, about 200 yards E. of tbe bigbest 
rock of tbe plateau. A sailing-vessel should anchor about 
1 mile to tbe nortbward of this, to enable her to get under 
way readily in event of a north wind, to which the bay is 
open. Under these circumstances a steamer can find a good 
anchorage 13 miles to the northward, in Yanes cove, for 
making which steer for Carnero hill, to clear Maule bank. 

The communication with the shore is only interrupted by 
a strong N. wind ; boats can always enter tbe river or land 
in a small creek close to tbe mouth. Ballast is thrown on 
the sand-beach between tbe mouth of tbe river and tbe Morro 
Cueva, the extreme point of Millongue; stone ballast is 
thrown on the banks at the entrance ; there are four strand- 
in g-places and ship-yards and one tug. 

Lebu was founded in 1863 ; its population is 1,000. Tbe 
coal-mines have been the cause of the rapid development of 
the city. 

It is high water, full and change, at Lebu at 10 h 30 m : rise, Tides - 
5.5 feet. The tide runs up the river to Sal to de Gorgolen, 
about 10 miles from its mouth. The mouth of the Lebu 
river is to the NYY. of the anchorage : the left bank, which 
runs along Lebu bill, and is strewn with rocks, can be seen 
from tbe anchorage : the right bank is entirely of sand. The 
mouth of tbe river is about 100 feet wide, and tbe deptb of 
the channel at low tide is never less than 5 feet. The tides 
have a velocity of from 4 to 6 knots ; as soon as the mouth 
is passed this velocity diminishes; the river enlarges and is 
filled with banks. The depth at the ford, which is less than 
1 mile from the mouth, is never less than 1 feet : from it the 
depth increases. These results were obtained during the 
dry season : during the rainy season the river rises about 4 
feet, but the strength of the current is not increased. 

This very tortuous river has its source in the Cordillera 
de jSahuelhuta, about 15 miles from the sea. At low water 



170 



FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPOION. 



PointMillongue 



Oarnero bay. 



Port Ranquil. 



Maule bank. 



Yaueg cove. 



there are many banks and fords; bat it can always be used 
by vessels drawing not more than 8 feet and not longer than 
100 feet, for a distance of 3 miles; beyond, not more than 
3 feet can be taken. 

The old settlement of Tucapel, or Lebu Viejo, at the foot 
of the plain to the southward of the mouth, has been rebuilt. 

On the south bank of the river is a mole, from which the 
coal of the surrounding mines is shipped. 

Point Millongue, which separates Oarnero bay from Lebu 
cove, is surrounded by reefs, which form a small port, in 
which vessels can anchor in 5 fathoms; sandy bottom. At 
the head of the port is a small landing-place, well sheltered 
from the southwest swell, called fort Yiel ; it is open to the 
N., and would have no importance but for the coal in its 
vicinity. 

Carnero bay is formed by Millongue point to the south- 
ward and Oarnero hill to the northward ; it is a large bay, 
11 miles in width from N. to S., and 4 miles deep, and em- 
braces the coves of Ranquil and Yanes. 

Port Eanquil is situated between point Millongue and 
point Huenteguapi ; it takes its name from a small estuary 
which empties here ; the water is shoal and the bottom 
strewn with rocks. The north beach is bad, but boats can 
always laud among the numerous rocks which border the 
south shore and extend out for J mile. It also owes its im- 
portance to the coal-mines in the vicinity. 

From point Huenteguapi to point Liles the coast is stud- 
ded with rocks to about 200 yards to seaward, and cannot 
be approached by boats; two points make out from it, 
Batro and Locobe. Three miles west of the latter, and 4 
miles to the southward of point Carnero, is a chain of sunken 
rocks, over which the sea breaks, called Maule bank ; there 
is a passage between it and Locobe point; to clear it, keep 
outside of the line joining Lebu head and the foot of Oar- 
nero hill, until at least 2 miles south of the islets of Yanes. 

Point Lacobe is to the northward of point Liles ; on round- 
ing it, in the north of Oarnero bay, is Yanes cove, closed to 
the westward by Oarnero head and two islands called Pi- 
chiguapi and Uehaguapi, situated SE. of the hill ; the north- 
ernmost of these is joined to the coast by a recently formed 
sand-spit. Yanes cove is an excellent anchorage, sheltered 



CARNERO HEAD. 



171 



from winds from west to east by tbe north ; there are 13 
feet of water close to the beach, bottom sand. The islets 
are rugged and clean, and although the cove is open to the 
westward, the sea is so broken by them that the anchorage 
can be kept when the wind is not too strong. Boats can 
always land in the coraer of the cove, where the sand-tongue 
joins the northern island, as near as possible to the latter ; 
this corner is large enough to shelter a vessel of moderate 
size. Steamers which enter this cove should anchor on an 
E. and W. line with the northern island. Good water is 
abundant, and can easily be taken in at the estuary of 
Tralicura. 

From Yaues the coast projects to the SW. as far as the came™ head. 
cliff of Carnero, the southern extremity of a chain following 
the coast. 

To the northward of Carnero, between it and the island Piures cove. 
Piures, are two small coves with, no hidden dangers, but they 
offer no shelter against wind or sea. To the X. of Piures 
island, which is a little nearer to Carnero than to cape Ru- 
inena, is a small cove in which, boats can find excellent shel- 
ter after crossing numerous reefs ; a pilot is, however, indis- 
pensable. 

The coast between Carnero and cape Rumena trends X., 
and is of moderate height ; extending from it h mile to sea- 
ward are rocks and breakers. 



Cape Rumena, 8J miles K 3° E. from Carnero 



hill, is 



Cape Rumena. 



steep and surrounded by rocks, as follows : 

About 2 miles S. 17° 30' W. from cape Rumena is a bank 
which is 1 mile from the shore, and which only shows above 
water at low- water springs. 

Captain Hall, of the P. S. X. Co.'s steamer Cloda, in 1859, 
saw the sea break over a sunken rock situated X. 27° W.°ank. 
from the outermost rock off the extremity of cape Rumena, 
and 2 h miles from the land ; this is dangerous as being in 
the route of vessels crossing the channel between Santa 
Maria and the continent. It shows at low water, and with 
a heavy swell the sea appears to break about every 15 
minutes. The Chilian reports confirm this vaguely : they 
place Hall rock 3 miles W. 17° N. from cape Rumena, and 
say that it only breaks during heavy gales. 

Mr. Perch, master R. F. of H. B. M. S. Shearwater, 



Rock awash. 



Hall rock and 
Four Fathom 



172 FROM YALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

searched unsuccessfully for this rock iu 1864, both in the 
vessel and with boats. He discovered about § mile from 
the coast a bank of rocks in 4 fathoms, on which the 
sea breaks heavily during moderate weather. Gape Eu- 
mena bore S. 17° 30' W. 1J miles distant, and point Lava- 
pie !N". 57° E. Mr. Petch concludes that Hall rock may 
exist farther off shore, as several coasters and captains of 
mail steamers assured him that they had seen the sea break 
over it in bad weather. 

Eaimenco cove. From cape Euuiena the coast runs nearly N"E. for about 
6 miles, to point Lavapie : it is formed of high, steep cliffs, 
behind which there is elevated and thickly wooded land. 

About 4 miles from point Lavapie is a point, to the north- 
ward of which is the beach of Eaimenco cove ; boats can 
here land easily. The anchorage is about 1 mile in extent, 
and is sheltered against the sea and winds from the south, 
but is open to the north ; to the SW. are two small banks. 
The beach is small and surrounded by high mountains con- 
taining coal. 

Four fathom The charts show another 4-fathom bank li miles SW. from 

bank. 

point Lavapie and J mile from the laud. It is recommended 
not to approach the land between Carnero and Lavapie 
closer than 4 miles ; the depth of water is uncertain and the 
currents set to the eastward at a rate of from 1 to 2 miles an 
hour, 
point Lavapie. Point Lavapie is low and surrounded by reefs extending 
to the W. and NE. for f of a mile; there is a rock surrounded 
by others J mile X. 17° E. from the point : the sea breaks 
constantly over it. The point must not be approached nearer 
than 2 miles, 
channel be- The channel between point Gochinosor Lobos, the south- 
Santa Maria and era extremity of Santa Maria, 5 miles wide, is subject to 
strong tides. When these currents combine with the wind 
from seaward, the ebb, for instance, with SW. and W. winds, 
the sea breaks more or less in the entire channel, especially 
to the southward of the Delicada reef, where there are but 
5 J fathoms in mid-channel; many rocks have been reported 
whose positions have not been verified. It is, therefore, 
more prudent not to use this channel during the night. 
Coming from the southward, being 4 or 5 miles from the 



HECTOR ROCK. 



173 



Hector rock. 



land, steer for the middle of the channel and pass it steering 
east. 

When coming from the bay of Arauco, after the middle of 
the channel is passed, the vessel heading west, no northing 
or southing should be made until at least 1 miles from cape 
Lavapie. 

Hector rock has been reported 1J miles X. 17° E. from the 
eastern part of point Lavapie ; it would, therefore, be nearly 
in mid-channel and requires a careful lookout. This rock 
was unsuccessfully searched for in 1880 by the Chilian com- 
mander Bebolledo, and in 1881 by H. B. M. S. Alert and 
Shearwater; the latter vessel anchored as near as possible 
to the position in 13 fathoms, bottom fine sand, and searched 
for the rock with vessel and boats. They only found a clump 
of rocks in 2j fathoms X. 6° E. -J mile from the eastern rocky 
point of the bay of Luco, and a rock awash, on which the 
sea breaks violently, 1,200 yards X". 27° W. from Lavapie 
point. 

The English charts erased this rock, and it was again re- 
ported in 1S70 by the commander of the Chilian war-steamer 
Ancud,- in latitude 37° 08' 35" S., longitude 73^ 32' 40" W., 
1 miles N. 57° E. of point Lavapie and 2J miles from the 
position where the Shearwater sounded. During the latter 
part of 1871 Lieutenant Biches, of H. B. M. S. Scylla, 
searched, without success, sounding constantly with two 
boats. Twice it was almost calm with a heavy swell, and 
the sea broke heavily on point Lavapie and the reefs, but 
nothing was discovered. These contradictory reports neces- 
sitate a good lookout in this passage. 

The P. S. X. Co.'s steamer Araucania touched during the 
night of May IS, 1871, off point Lavapie, it bearing S. 17° 
W., 2 miles distant. Lieutenant Biches could find no ob- 
structions here. 

This rock, whose existence is doubted, was discovered in cockatrice rock. 
1819 by Master Bundle, B. N., commanding H. B. M. schooner 
Cockatrice, when searching for the rock on which the John 
Benwick was lost, which proved to be the Dormido rock, 
off the north end of Santa Maria island. 

Cockatrice rock is S. 29° W. from Cadenas point, the 
western extremity of Santa Maria island, and more than 3 
miles S. 85° W. from point Lobos or Cochinos. This rock 



Araucania rock. 



174 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

is dangerous though not in mid-channel between Lavapie 
and Santa Maria. 
iand. nta Ma ' ia is Santa Maria island is comparatively low, and dangerous 
on account of the many reefs surrounding it. The coast is 
bordered by cliffs, excepting to the eastward ; the currents 
around it are very irregular. It is 7 miles long in the direc- 
tion of the meridian and from 1 to 4 miles wide. 

proposed light, jj. j s p r0 p 0se( j to establish here a light of the fourth order, 
showing a fixed white light, varied by flashes, visible 16 
miles. 

point Lobos, or Point Oochinos, the southern extremity of Santa Maria, 
is surrounded to the S. and SW*. by rocks which extend out 
1 mile ; the sea does not break over all of them. One of them, 
over which the sea does break at intervals, is about 36 feet 
square, 3J miles N. 40° E. of point Lavapie and S. 13° E. 
from point Cadenas, the western point of Santa Maria ; 
there are 2 fathoms over it and from 5 to 7 fathoms near it ; 
it was reported by the Chilian commander W. Eebolledo. 
From this the reef runs NW. to Dormido rock, and extends 
about 2 miles from the shore of the island. 

When going through the channel between Lavapie and 
Santa Maria, Oochinos point should not be approached 
within 1 mile until it bears N. 45° W. 

Roadstead of There is a passable roadstead off the SE. part of the 

Santa Maria. L * 

island, with anchorage in from 4 to 8J fathoms and good 
bottom, but the only sheltered spot is under the eastern 
part of point Oochinos. Formerly there was a good an- 
chorage between this point and the sand-spit Delicada, the 
SE. point of Santa Maria, but the earthquake of 1835 
raised the bottom, leaving but 1J fathoms water. The 
depth diminished gradually in the cove, and vessels can 
choose their berths, according to their draught. It is neces- 
sary to pass 1 mile SE. of Oochinos, as a bank makes out 
for half that distance ; doubling this bank there is a small 
cove close to the point where landing is possible, and to 
the SR. of which a vessel may anchor in 5 fathoms. To the 
north of this cove the coast of the island is strewn with 
outlying banks as far as a gorge, where there are a few 
houses. This gorge is about 2 miles from the anchorage, and 
boats can generally land opposite it, but there is sometimes 
a heavy surf which renders it difficult. 



ARAUCO BAY. 1<0 

When doubling round inside and to the eastward of Santa 
Maria, it will not be prudent to haul to the northward of a 
line drawn from it E. J S., until at least 3 miles from the 
point, to clear Delicada spit, which runs out about SE., and 
the extensive bank with 3 to 4 fathoms to the southward of 
it; the spit commences at the gorge already mentioned : its 
perimeter has increased more than 1,100 yards during the 
past 35 years ; it is at present about 8 miles. 

There are many rocks off the northern extremity of Santa. Dormido an d 

^ Vogelberg rocks. 

Maria island ; the principal ones being Dormido, 3 miles X. 
33° W. of that point ; and the Vogelberg, two rocks, about 
4 miles X. of the same point. They are not always marked 
by breakers, and it is not prudent to pass inside of them. 

The N. and AY. coasts of Santa Maria should never be 
approached nearer than 3 miles. 

Arauco bay is comprised between the island Santa Ma- Bay of Arauco. 
ria, point Lavapie, and the coast to the eastward and to the 
northward as far as Coronel. In the southern portion of 
the bay there is good anchorage protected against southerly 
winds, but there is no shelter from northerly winds except 
iu the harbors of Luco, Lota, and Coronel. The depth of 
water iu the bay is very irregular, bottom sand ; there are 
2J fathoms up to the beach, which is so beaten by the surf 
that boats can only land in certain places and at favorable 
times. 

All the dangers between point Lavapie and the bay of Trauco and 
Luco are indicated by breakers ; a vessel must be cautions Trana cove8 ' 
when wishing to anchor off the small cove of Trauco and 
Trana, situated to the eastward of the eastern part of point 
Lavapie. Boats can easily laud in these coves, which are 
somewhat sheltered from X. winds by the island Santa Ma- 
ria. The anchorage is better and more sheltered against S. 
winds than that of Luco. The land is high and probably 
contains coal. 

Luco bay is to the eastward of Trauco and Trana coves; Bay of luccv 
it is a fair anchorage, but not entirely sheltered to the NNW., 
and with sharp southerly winds it is liable to violent gusts 
which sweep down the mountains that overlook cape Eu- 
mena. There are 6 fathoms and good holding-ground near 
the land. Landing is easy. 



17G 



FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 



Tubui river. Tubul river is 7 miles from the anchorage of Luco. The 
coast for 3 or 4 miles on either side of the river is formed 
of peaked cliffs, with high hills resembling dunes. Good- 
sized vessels were formerly able to enter, but the earthquake 
of 1835 so raised the bar that at present vessels of 30 tons 
only can cross it. It was supposed that this bar would wash 
out. The mouth of the river sheltered from the swell from 
the W. is generally smooth and affords an excellent landing; 
the surrounding country is very fine and fertile. The river 
is frequented by small schooners, or by balandras, which 
carry the produce of that section to Ooronel and Talcahu- 
ano. 

ei Prayie rock. El Frayle rock or islet, on which the sea breaks, except- 
ing during very calm weather, is about 1 mile offshore and 
to the northward of the outer point of the large cliffs to the 
westward of the river Tubul. A bank of 4 fathoms has 
been reported 2 miles KN"E. from El Frayle. 

Arauco. About 4 miles to the eastward of the entrance of the river 

Tubul, on the Laraquete beach, and near the mouth of the 
Eio Oarampangue, is the town of Arauco; it was formerly 
a place of importance, but now nothing remains but a fort 
or rather earthwork of about 600 feet square, surrounded by 
a few houses. It is probable that great geological chauges 
have taken place in this section since the Spanish conquest. 
Laraquete, a sandy beach in front of groves of trees, 
extends about 10 miles EKE. from the cliffs of Tubul. At 
2 miles from the beach there are 10 fathoms of water, sandy 
bottom. The river Oarampangue, which empties near 
Arauco, is not navigable at the mouth, which is full of 
sand-banks, with varying depths of from 2 to 6 feet; outside 
of it there are from 3 to 6 fathoms, but N. winds prevent 
anchoring in this locality; two miles in the interior the 
river is wide and deep. 

It is high water, full and change, at Arauco at 10 h 15 m ; 
rise at springs, 6 feet. 

The river Laraquete, the northern boundary of Laraquete 
beach, is without importance. From it to point Ooronel 
the coast, high and rugged, trends north j there are no out- 
lying dangers, and there are several coves. The first is 2 
miles from the river Laraquete, at the mouth of the small 



L a r a q n e t 
beach. 



Tides. 



Ccast. 



LOTA BAY. 177 

river Chivilingo ; this cove offers shelter to very small ves- 
sels, excepting during SW. gales. 

The hill and point Yillagran separate the coves of Chivi- or C pJ e e rt ° e f v?ej C ura 
lingo and Oolcura ; the latter has an opening of 1 mile and 
is J mile deep; it is bounded to the northward by the 
Siles islets and Lobos rock, or Piedra Blanca, behind which 
are the mountaius of Fuerte Viejo. 

Colcura cove is exposed to both SW. and NW. winds; it 
is less sheltered and not so good as that of Lota; the 
anchorage is % mile south of the Siles islets, in 5 fathoms, 
muddy bottom. A river empties in its NE. part, into which 
vessels not drawing more than 6 feet can enter on high 
water. An important flour-mill has been established at the 
entrance of the river; the village of Colcura is a little higher 
up. Ballast is thrown on point Yillagran. 

Lota bay has become very important on account of the Lota bay. 
coal-mines which surround it; it opens to the NW. of 
Fuerte Viejo; according to Fitz-Roy, it is better than those 
of Oolcura or Coronel. 

Lota can be recoguized by the white houses of Lota 
Alta and by those of Don Luis Oausiiio, on the hill which 
overlooks the bay, as also by a large iron jetty, having a 
crane- wheel and drop at its extremity for shipping coal. 
Vessels of medium draught anchor in 5 fathoms about £ 
mile to the south of the extremity of the jetty ; the bottom 
is good holding-ground, but the sea is so heavy as often to 
interrupt communication with the shore. A large vessel 
must anchor J mile S. by W. from the jetty, in 7 to 7 J fath- 
oms, on a line from the Morro Lutrin to the white rocks of 
Siles. The N. point of Santa Maria bears N. 66° W. from 
the anchorage of Lota. 

Lota is the port for shipping the coal of several coal-mines, Description, 
the three principal of which are at Ohambique, Lotilla, and 
San Carlos ; a little to the northward of Lotilla a railroad 
brings the coal from these three points to the edge of the 
iron jetty, alongside which vessels make fast. Two hundred 
and fifty tons of coal can be loaded daily by the crane, under 
which there are 3J fathoms at low- water springs. War ves- 
sels generally take their coal from lighters; this is easily done 
in good weather, but the strong southerly winds are a se- 
rious interruption. There are copper-smelting works at , 
12 c 



178 FROM VALDIVIA TO CONCEPCION. 

Lota which utilize the small coal. The fouudery has two 
wharves, one for unloading the copper-ore and the other for 
shipping pigs of metal. 

All the coal-mines, the smelting-furnaces and three jetties 
belonged to a Chilian, Don Luis Causino, who sold them to 
a Chilian company, having an English gentleman, Mr. 
Munro, as director. The mines are worked by English sub- 
jects, miners from Newcastle, who have made a contract 
for getting out the coal. This coal, which was first worked 
in 1841, can be easily mined, and its veins cover a large area. 
At first there were many accidents, as it contained pyrites 
in large quantities, but smce getting deeper into the veins 
the quality has become better ; it is a quick-consuming coal, 
and should be mixed with slow-burning coal. The high 
price of the English coal increases the demand for the Chil- 
ian ) the mail steamers take it now; the price of this coal, 
however, has also increased as the quality has become bet- 
ter. In 1870 it could be bought at $4 to $1.60 at the dock, 
and at $5.60 to $6 along the coast ; since that time the 
prices have increased greatly. In 1870 from 80,000 to 90,000 
tons were exported ; the mines are now well worked. The 
company of Lota alone employs 1,500 workmen, and Lota 
and Colcura have about 6,000 inhabitants. Lota is divided 
into two parts : Lota Alta on the heights near the mines ; 
Lota Baja on a sand-beach at the head of the bay. At the 
foot of the cliffs of Lota are store-houses and work-shops. 
Fire-brick are also manufactured at Lota. Ballast is thrown 
overboard near Lobos rock. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Lota at 10 h ; rise 1.6 

feet. 

chambique Lutriu head, the SW. extremity of Lota cove, separates 
it from the cove of Chambique, which is open to WSW. ; it 
can hold three vessels anchored in from 4 to 5 fathoms. 
One of the mines of Lota is on the shores of this cove. 

Lotnia cove. A short mile from point Piquete, the northern extremity 
of Chambique cove, is Lotilla cove, protected by islets and 
rocks ; it is quite safe but extremely small, and has only from 
3 to 3f fathoms of water. It is near the mines of Lotilla 
and San Carlos. 

isiet del cu- A little to northward of the entrance to Lotilla lies an 
islet, called del Cuervo, which is connected with the continent 



cove 



BAY OF CORONEL. 



179 



by a chain of rocks. All the coast between Villagran and 
del Cuervo is clean a short distance from the land. 

When coming from the northward this island is easily 
recognized by its reddish-brown pointed cliffs, forming the 
angle of a bastion. They are surmounted by a hillock of a 
brick-red, on which there are trees. 

From the same position is seen the small castle with tower 
and the English garden of Causifio on the promontory which 
separates the two bays ; behind it the steeple of the church 
of the workmen's town and the smoke from the brass-found- 
ery are seen. 

The bay of Coronel opens to the northward of the island BayofCoronei. 
Cuervo; its entrance between this islet and point Puchoco 
is a little over 3 miles wide ; the bay is about 1 J miles long. 
Port Coronel is in its 1NE. part. 

The coast of the bay is in the shape of a semi-ellipse, 
whose longer axis passes through the island Cuervo and 
point Puchoco ; the SE. part is a sand-beach, called Playa 
Blauca, which is bounded to the northward by a hill that 
extends to the sea ; the mine of Playa Xegra is at this place. 
The coast under this hill is dangerous : a bank of rocks, 
which begins off the houses, extends J mile to the westward. 
There are several isolated rocks in the vicinity of this bank, 
the farthest being J mile from the shore and J mile to the 
northward of the bank ; alongside of it there are 4J fathoms. 

Off the Playa Blanca, where the water deepens rapidly, 
is a small bank of rocks in 2 fathoms, full of sharp points 
and steep to ; it lies about i mile from the land. In 1862 a 
buoy was placed in 7 fathoms of water, 30 feet to the west- 
ward of it, under the following bearings : 

Western part of point Puchoco X. 39° W. 

East extremity of de Cuervo ■ S. 37° W. 

These bearings will give the position of the bank if the 
buoy should be swept away. Two houses on this hill over- 
looking Playa Blanca are a good mark for the bank ? it is 
on the line passing through the northern angle of the lower 
house and the middle of the upper one. 

To the northward of the heights of the mine of Playa 
Negra is a bank of black sand 1 mile long, called Playa IsTe- 
gra; it is limited to the northward by the ravine of Corco- 
vado, on the other side of which is the town of Coronel. 



Coronel bank. 



180 



PORT CORONEL. 



port Connie 1 . The bay here forms a semicircle 1J miles wide; port 
Coronel is on its eastern limit, sheltered from .N". and NW. 
winds by point Puchoco. The surrounding land is of me- 
dium height. 

The anchorage is in 7J to 9f fathoms, muddy bottom, \ 
mile S. 35° E. from the mole of Puchoco, and a little to the 
southward of the point of that name \ many vessels, how- 
ever, anchor within half that distance, there beiug from 7 
to 7J fathoms 300 yards from the shore. This anchorage is 
preferable to that of Lota. This bight is divided into two 
distinct parts ; oue toward the town of Goronel, where there 
is a mole in a dilapidated condition, and a clean shore ; the 
other on the side of Puchoco, which is the center of the 
mines, where there are some rocks a short distance from 
the beach of Puchoco, and a bank with some 2 J to 3 fath- 
oms over it near the mole. The JS". point of Santa Maria 
bears K". 77° W. from the anchorage of Coronel. 

Description. Tm3 vicinity of Coronel, like that of Lota, is full of mines, 

to which it owes its importance; the principal ones are 
those of Coronel, Kojas, and Puchoco ; the latter, which 
are on the exterior of the NW. point of the bay, are worked 
out under the sea 875 yards from the coast. The coal is 
brought by railway, which runs through a tunnel under the 
point, to the end of the mole. To the northward are the 
mines of Eojas, one of which belongs to the company of 
Lota, and its coal is shipped from the end of the wharf off 
the center of the town. The mines of Puchoco belong to a 
company called compailia de carbon de Puchoco; they employ 
1,500 persons ; the shafts descend 130 feet ; the breadth of 
the veins is between 1 and 5 feet, and they run in the direc- 
tion of Lota. There are six steam-engines of from 12 to 60 
horse-power in use. 

The mines furnish 80,000 tons annually, of which 30,000 
are for steamboat companies, 35,000 for the foundries in the 
north of Chile, and 10,000 for gas companies and domestic 
purposes. Since 1867 a factory for fire-brick has been 
established in connection with the mines. 

The coals of Coronel give rise to more maritime commerce 
than that of Lota, to which they are inferior, but they cost 
$1 less ; they are said to be more liable to spontaneous com- 



FROM VALDIYIA TO CONCEPCION. 



181 



bustiou than the latter. The steamers from Liverpool to 
Valparaiso coal at Coronel. 

Ballast is thrown overboard between Puchoco and the 
point of the same name, or on the rocks off the settlement 
of Playa Negra, or between point de los Mirquenes and the 
chain of reefs to the eastward. 

Chile produces only tertiary lignites, the superior quality 
of which is recognized. The district containing it is a nar- 
row, broken, littoral belt between Talcahuauo and Quirico. 
Farther south, in the provinces of Valdivia, Llanquihue, An- 
cud, and Chonos, there are only insignificant veins of the 
lignite formation, not large enough to warrant their being 
worked. 

The annual production is 240,000 tons. The price varies 
between $6 and $8 per ton, according to the value of 
English coal. The Chilian coal can be mined easily ; the 
beds are regular, pure, and from 3 to 5 feet wide : they are 
not subject to inundations, and lie under soft, not liable to 
crumble, and slightly aquiferous rock. 

At Lebu there are about 1,000 acres of coal-land, contain- 
ing about 5,000,000 tons. It is thought that, at the present 
rate of working, the mines of Arauco can only furnish coal 
for 8 years, and that the total working of the coal-mines 
can last but from 20 to 30 years. 

Point Coronel is 1§ miles NNW. of point Puchoco ; some 
rocks extend from it S. by W. 600 yards. The coast be- 
tween the two points is clear and of moderate height. 

From point Coronel the coast runs E. for about 2 miles 
and N. 5 miles, with about the same elevation ; it is then 
low for 1J miles, and is bordered by an extensive sand- 
beach to the estuary of the river Biobio, whose mouth is 
about 10 miles from the N. point of Coronel. A sand-bank, 
forming the bar of the river, runs out from this beach, 
which is always beaten by the swell. The entrance is be- 
tween this tongue and the northern part of Pompon head, 
a peninsula which is connected with the land to the north- 
ward by a narrow neck of sand 766 yards long. 

Pompon head is surrounded, to the southward and east- 
ward, by large rocks from 06 to 88 yards distant; between 
the point and the two eastern rocks is the only passage ; 
the depth varies between 3j and 5 fathoms to the mouth, 



Point Coronel. 



Biobio river. 



182 BIOBIO RIVER. 

close alongside of the head ; inside it shoals rapidly to 6 
and then to 3 feet. A vessel wishing to enter must bring 
the southern island on a N". and S. line, and steer IS", for 
this narrow passage, but a vessel can go no farther ; only 
boats can enter. As the water does not increase in depth 
inside, and as the current runs 3 knots, it can be said that 
the river Biobio is inaccessible. The swell always sets into 
its mouth. 

The Biobio is the largest water-course of Chile, being 
about 160 miles long. It leaves the lagoon of Huchueltui 
in the midst of the Cordillera Grande, in latitude 38° V S. 
and longitude 70° 36' W. ; after a course in which it is said 
to attain a velocity of 12 knots, it crosses an immense fer- 
tile plain, called the Central valley, and clears the Cordil- 
lera of the coast before emptying into the sea. It is full of 
sand-banks, and can only be navigated by flat-boats, of 
which there are about 100, some of them with steam-power. 
Its principal tributaries are the Vergara, and especially the 
Laja, which comes from the lagoon of Antuco at the foot 
of the volcano of the same name, in latitude 37° 10' S. The 
town of Los Angelos, near which there is an important 
German colony, is in the Central valley between the Laja 
and the Biobio. Concepcion, the third city of Chile, is on 
the right bank of the Biobio, 6 miles from its mouth. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at the mouthy of the 

Biobio at 10 h 15 m ; rise, 3 feet. 

paps of Biobio. A peninsula 2 miles long, and of the same breadth, sepa- 
rates the estuary of Biobio from the harbor of San Vin- 
cente; it is limited to the SW. by point Cujento, and to the 
eastward by the Biobio, and is surmounted by the two paps 
or Tetas del Biobio. The SW. hill is 793 and the KE. one 
816 feet high ; they are excellent landmarks for the mouth 
of the river, port San Vincente, and the bay of Concepcion. 
There are no dangers near them other than a few rocks 
close to the land. 

Port San vin- Port San Vincente is to the northward of the paps; it is 
a bad and exposed anchorage, entirely open to NW. winds 
and the swell from the westward ; it is clean in its southern 
parts, but has some rocks about \ mile from its K. shore ; 
there are 14 fathoms in the middle; the cove is 2J miles 
deep and 2 wide. 



cente. 




pq 



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Wi 



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V 



II 



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III s„ 






4£ 



FROM VALDIVTA TO CONCEPCTON. 183 

From point Lobo, the northern boundary of the entrance Peninsula o 

1 " Tumbes. 

to San Vincente, the coast trends N. 18° E. for 6 miles, to 
point Tumbes, near which are many scattered rocks, some 
above and some below the water. The Sugar-Loaf rock is 
5J miles from Lobo, and the rocks which surround it are 
rather less than J mile from the coast. Quiebra Olla is a 
rock 20 feet above water, lying N. 27° W. | mile from point 
Tumbes. Vessels must not pass between it and the point, 
as there are several sunken rocks ; outside of it there are no 
dangers. 

The name of the peninsula of Tumbes is given to a stretch 
of land comprised between point Tumbes, to the northward, 
and point Lobo and the town of Talcahuano, to the south- 
ward. The highest elevation, its northern extremity, is 412 
feet. 

The entrance of the bay of Goncepcion is between point Bay of concep- 
Tumbes, the NW. extremity of the peninsula, and point 
Loberia, 6 J miles ENE. of it. The bay is 9 miles deep and 
5 wide; the depth of water is good everywhere; the anchor- 
age is extensive and well sheltered from nearly all points ; 
strong N. winds render the bay rough, without endanger- 
ing vessels that are well anchored. Mount Newke, 1,790 
feet high, and about 5 miles from cape Loberia, is the high- 
est laud in the vicinity. 

(Joal of the same quality as that of Coronel and Lota is Coal - 
worked in the vicinity of the bay. At Talcahuano it is taken 
from the NW. part of a hill near the bay. There are two 
veins, 3 feet thick, separated by a bed of loose stones 14.7 
feet thick; the coal is bituminous. There are some other 
mines at Tierras Coloradas, near the river Andalien, which 
furnish the best coals. There are two veins on the east 
coast of the bay, one near Penco and the other in the bay 
of Coliumo, but they do not clear the expense of working 
them. The exploration of a mine has been commenced on 
the island Quiriquina. 

The island Quiriquina trends N. 17° E. and S. 17° W., is Quinquina to- 

7 land. 

3 miles long and 1 wide. It is situated at the entrance of 
the bay of Concepcion, and shelters it to the northward; its 
summit is 395 feet high ; a short distance from its northern 
extremity are some rocks, called Pajaros Ninos ; vessels can 
anchor off {mint Arena, its SE. extremity. 



184 QTJIRIQUINA ISLAND. 

Quinquina, and the reefs which extend from its SW. ex- 
tremity for about 400 yards, protect the anchorage opposite 
the town of Taleahuano against N. winds. The bay can be 
entered on either side of the island, but the best passage 
for those not familiar with the locality is that to the east- 
ward. The westernmost passage, called Quiriquina channel, 
between that island and the peninsula of Tumbes, is 1 mile 
wide ; the water on the side of the island is deep, but the 
Buey rocks, which run out from the ^NE. point of Tumbes, 
reduce the width to J mile; the tides in this channel are 
irregular. The Great or Eastern channel, between Quiri- 
quina island and point Loberia, is 3 miles wide, with no 
danger at a reasonable distance from cape Loberia and Pa- 
jaros Ninos. There is less tide in this passage. 
Light : Lat. 30° A ivMte light, varied by flashes every 30 seconds, the dura- 
?3° 06' 05 ; ' wT e ' tion of each flash being 9 seconds, with a partial eclipse of 
20 seconds, is shown from a round brick tower, painted 
white, the balustrade black, and the cupola and ventilator 
green. The tower is placed at the NE. angle of the keeper's 
dwelling, which is also painted white; the height of the 
light is 26 feet from its base, and 211 feet above the level 
of the sea, and is visible 15 miles. The light is only visible 
to the northward of X. 79° E.; to the southward of this 
bearing it is shut in by the high land of Tumbes. With a 
northwest wind the sea is often so phosphorescent as to ren- 
der the light difficult to make from a distance. There is a 
signal-mast near the tower. 
Beien aDd Man- The banks and rocks north of the anchorage of Talca- 

zanobanks; Mari- 

nao and viudahuano, along the Tumbes shore, average about 1^ miles from 
the mole. Marinao rock is above water, and marked by an 
iron staff 14 feet high, surmounted by a ball painted black; 
it is ^ mile from the land, and N. 9° E. from Taleahuano 
head. Manzauo bank is 300 yards north of Marinao rock, 
and extends about 200 yards from the shore; Tiuda rock, 
which is marked by a white staff 15 feet high, uncovers at 
low water, and lies If mile S. 17° W. from Marinao rocks, 
300 yards from the shore, and 492 feet N. of the government 
mole. These rocks are part of a bank which terminates, 
with a depth of from 2| to 3J fathoms, about \ mile from 
the shore; between its extremity and the west edge of Belen 
bank, there is a passage \ mile wide, with Sf fathoms. The 



FROM VALDTVIA TO CONCEPCION. 185 

U. S. S. Portsmouth discovered a shoal spot, with 3 J to 4 
fathoms over it at low water, which would necessitate ves- 
sels taking this channel borrowiug toward Befeu bank; it 
lies S. 14° E. from Marinao perch, a short ^ mile distant, 
Talcahuano head bearing S. 18° 35' W., and Viuda rock S. 
29° 18' W. 

Belen bank is marked by a black buoy, anchored on the B - lenbaQk - 
north edge of the bank, in 15 J feet of water, at low tide, 
bottom mud ; the bank extends 328 yards in a NW, and 
SE. direction, bottom mud and shells, and has from 11 to 
21 feet of water over it; no vessel drawing more than 13 
feet should approach the buoy to within 100 yards, when it 
bears from "SW. to FB. through north. The buoy is on the 
following bearings, viz: 

Chief mole of Talcahuano, (end) S. 12° 35' W. 

Point Fronton, (S. extremity of Quinquina 

island) „ . N. 27° 1C W. 

Tome church- tower X. 17° 25' E. 

If the buoys should not be in place, the bank will be 
cleared by keeping mount Espinosa open of Talcahuano 
head until the highest hill to the right of the town, on the 
southern part of the heights of Tuinbes, bears S. 82° W. ; as 
fort Galvez has been destroyed, and Lookout hill cannot be 
distinguished, there are at present no leading marks to the 
anchorage ; large vessels, when choosing a berth, must bear 
in mind that a bank extends J mile from the town. 

Choros bank, which is marked on the charts -^ mile X. chorosbank. 
16° W. from Belen bank, was unsuccessfully searched for 
by the officers of the U. S. S. Portsmouth. 

When facing the town of Talcahuano a pointed hill is Talcahuano 
seen on the left, at the foot of which is the entrance of a 
small canal; this is Talcahuano head, an excellent leading 
mark for the roadstead. 

The port of Talcahuano is in the SW. angle of the bay of ht £ Q r * of Talca " 
Concepcion, and is the best anchorage in the bay ; outside 
the bank, which extends about 500 yards from the town, 
there is 3J fathoms. Vessels usually anchor about J mile 
off the town, in from 4f to 5f fathoms of water ; there is 
nothing to prevent landing or receiving cargo at all times. 

A vessel can be hove down or careened in this port. Description. 
There are three good watering-places, and water is brought 



186 TALCAHUANO. 

to vessels, iu a tank of 30 tons' capacity, at 30 cents per ton. 
Ballast or ashes can be lauded on the bank of rocks off the 
castle of San Augustin. The government has constructed 
a mole. There is a pilot of the port, aud there are two 
yards for repairing vessels and boats. 

Talcahuano, which has from 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants, is 
the seaport of Concepcion, from which it is 6J miles distant. 
Talcahuano, with Concepcion, was destroyed by an earth- 
quake in 1835, and it suffered greatly in 1868 from an inun- 
dation by the waters of the bay. 
Directions. With a southerly wind the land should be made to the 

southward of tbe entrance. The vicinity of the bay is well 
marked by the paps of Biobio, the south boundary of San 
Yincente bay, to the northward of which the heights of 
Tumbes trend to the north and extend 6 miles, as before 
stated; the outlying dangers off Tumbes are the Pan de 
Azucar and Quiebra Olla rock, which should be given a 
good berth. Taking the channel to the east of Quiriquina, 
the most advisable for a stranger, after passing Quiebra 
Olla steer to round Pajaros Niilos as closely as possible, 
and, with a southerly wind, haul to the wind immediately 
and beat up for the anchorage of Talcahuano; if the wind 
is from the northward, it is still advisable to keep close to 
Pajaros Niiios, where the water is deep, as thus Concepcion 
rock, off Point Loberia, is avoided. After passing the north 
end of Quiriquina the anchorage off Tome comes in sight. 
With a leading wind, after passing the north end of Quiri- 
quina, and when the south end of the island bears west, 
distant 1 mile, steer directly for Talcahuano head; this 
course will bring the vessel well up to the buoy on Belen, 
which must not be approached nearer than J mile; round 
this buoy, aud steer directly for the railroad depot, on the 
west side of the town. 

The best anchorage is in from 5 to 6 fathoms of water, 
with the paps of Biobio to the right of the Catholi cchurch- 
tower ; but the nearer to Tumbes the smoother the wa- 
ter will be, and the better the protection from northers. 
The holding-ground is good throughout the bay. On the 
west side of the bay all the dangers are to the westward of 
Belen bank. Beating up for the auchorage off Talcahuano 
it is not prudent to approach Punto Parra nearer than 1 



FROM YALDITIA TO COXX'EPCIOX, 



187 



Conception. 



inile, as Euadel bank is nearly that distance from the point, 
and give Belen a good berth. 

Approaching Los Reyes island, keep the bluff on the north 
side of San Yincente bay closed ia by Talcahuano head, the 
shoal-water along the island inakiug out a considerable 
distance. 

Concepcion, the capital of the province of that name, is 
a town with about 14,000 inhabitants, situated on the right 
bank of the Biobio, in the plain of Mocha; it was built 
here after the destruction of old Concepcion; Penco, by the 
earthquake of 1730. Concepcion was destroyed by the 
earthquake of 1835, which changed the depth of the bay 
considerably. The town is well constructed, with numerous 
churches and public institutions; it lies in the center of a 
valley, which produces cereals of all kinds in large quan- 
tities; beef and mutton are of fine quality and cheap. 
Twenty years ago the former cost 4 cents a pound and the 
latter $5 a head; but everything has increased; pigs and 
fowls are more expensive; vegetables of all kinds are abun- 
dant and of moderate price, as are the fruits of the season. 

From Talcahuano head a low beach commences, called Penco. 
la isla de los Reyes, which is terminated by a small hill per- 
taining to the chain in the interior. On the other side of 
this is Penco, or old Concepcion. Penco is not a part of 
entry, and has neither the advantages of Tome nor the 
security of Talcahuano. 

The depth at the anchorage varies between 5£ and 11 
fathoms, bottom of sand and mud. Vessels can anchor 
here, but the northerly swell is very heavy, especially off 
the Boca Grande ; there is no shelter from that direction ; 
it is, therefore, best in bad weather to go to the anchorage 
off Talcahauno. The water is shoal off the town of Penco. 
The small water-course of Audalien empties in the Boca 
Grande at the east extremity of the island de los Reyes. 

Lirquen is If miles from Penco, from which it is separated Lirquen. 
by points Cerillo Verde and Lirquen, from each of which 
rocks extend out 220 yards, and are visible at low water. 
Between the points is a coal-mine. The remarks on the 
anchorage of Penco apply equally to Lirquen. 

Beechy rock, 1J miles S. 85° W. of Lirquen point, was 



Beechy rock. 



188 



PORT OF TOME. 



Point Parra. 



Port of Tome. 



Description. 



Zealous rock. 



sought for by the U. S. S. Portsmouth, commander Skerrett, 
but not found. 

Point Parra is wooded, and is 2 miles to the northward 
of Lirquen. A shoal extends out from Parra point 1,300 
yards W. by S., and 1,800 yards SW. by S., having from 2 
to 3 fathoms on its outer edge, just within which, and bear- 
ing WSW., 1,300 yards from point Parra, is Eundle bank, 
with from 1 to 6 feet over it at low water. Loberia head, 
N. J° E., will clear the bank 601) yards in about 12 fathoms 
of water. 

The anchorage at Tome is considered safe, but vessels are 
always exposed to the southerly swell ; the small hill called 
El Morro de Tome protects it from N. winds, but the heavy 
sea from this direction is somewhat felt. With south winds 
this anchorage is attained more easily than that of Talca- 
huano, which is nearly 9 miles to the SW. Wishing to 
anchor at Tome, bring the conspicuous white church-spire in 
line with the end of the pier, and keep them on until the 
extreme of the land of Huily head comes in line with the 
extremity of Loberia head; these marks will give the best 
anchorage for a large vessel in 10J fathoms, mud and good 
holding-ground. Care must be taken in anchoring here, as 
the water shoals suddenly. A stranger should not attempt 
to take an anchorage at Tome at night. The bay of Tome 
is easily recognized by the mill of Bella Vista, near point 
Parra, as also by Tome hill. 

The town of Tome, which, in 1835, consisted of but one 
street, has developed rapidly, and contains at present about 
6,000 inhabitants ; it is the harbor of export of the province 
of !Nuble. The principal street terminates in a jetty 150 
feet long, on which a water-pipe has been laid ; a tank 
takes water to vessels, and there are three convenient 
watering-places in the coves of Tome and Oollen, (Bella 
Vista.) There is a cloth-factory at Tome; provisions are 
cheaper than at Talcahuano, and there are two yards for 
repairing vessels and boats. Ballast and ashes are thrown 
]^TW. of the anchorage, on a beach between two chains of 
rock. 

Zealous rock lies 700 yards to the southward of Huily 
head; from it point Loberia bears N. 27° 30' W., Huily 
head N. 29° E., and Quiriquina light N. 81° W. ; it has 



FR03I VALD1YIA TO CONCEPCION. 189 

over it 3 feet at low water. Close to the westward of 
it is another rock with from 4 to 6 feet over it ; between 
these and the land there are other submerged rocks, and the 
bottom is rocky. Zealous rock is to be marked by a buoy. 

To the northwestward of point Huecas, the westernmost p i^Loberia. 
extremity of the bay of Tome, is Huily head, an ill-defined, 
rocky point. Two miles X. 34° VV. from point Huecas is point 
Loberia, the XE. limit of the bay of Concepcion ; it is of a 
dark color and has some outlying rocks, all of which are 
near the laud excepting Lozzi, or Concepcion rock. 

Concepcion rock is conical and sharp, so that the lead will r0 ^ uce peion 
not rest on its summit, with 19.7 feet of water over it at low 
tide. At the distance of a boat's length around it the depth 
varies from 13J fathoms to 19 fathoms. It was necessary to 
look for it for three days before it was found, and sextant 
angles were taken that place its position on the following 
bearings, viz : 

Farallon islet, off Loberia point K 30° 50" E. 

Seal rock S. 62^ 20" E. 

Huique point (Huily point) IS. 40° 50" E. 

Quinquina island light S. 4S D o^' W. 

The sea only breaks on it in heavy storms, and in ordi- 
nary weather there is no ripple or eddy to mark it. nor is 
there any weed on it. 

About 3J miles XXE. of cape Loberia is point Talca, where Coliumo ba r- 
the coast turns suddenly to the eastward to point Culliu, and 
then to Coliumo head, where, turning again to the south- 
ward, it forms Coliumo bay, with an opening of 1 mile be- 
tween the points Coliumo and Liugueral ; it is 1^ miles deep 
and terminated by an inlet about 1 mile long with li to 2J 
fathoms of water. Coasters can anchor with security in this 
bay, but large vessels are not much sheltered during X. 
winds. The bottom is of tine black sand, and the depth is 
from 2J to 8| fathoms. The best anchorage is in Jlare cove, 
immediately behind cape Coliumo, where there is a good 
lauding and watering-place. This bay has always been the 
center of operations for smugglers. 

It is high water, full and change, in Concepcion bay at 10 a TileSl 
14 m ; springs rise 5 feet. 



reo 



CHAPTER VII. 

FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 

Variation from 17° 15' to 14° 13' easterly, in 1876 ; increasing annually about V 30". 

The coast, high and wooded, continues to trend with a 
slight inclination to the eastward ; 16 miles NNE. from the 
bay of Ooliumo is point Boquita. 

Port Buchupu- p or t Buchupureo, in latitude 36° 05' S. and longitude 72° 
45 ; W.j is 12 miles from point Boquita ; it is at the entrance of 
an extended valley, watered by a river of the same name, which 
empties under the shelter of point Maquis, its S. point. This 
point shelters the anchorage against S. winds. On the ap- 
proach of a norther, vessels should, and can easily, get under 
way ; the bottom is good holding-ground — sand and mud. 
On a ET. by E. bearing from point Maquis are 11J fathoms; 
this depth diminishes gradually to near the land, where there 
are but 3 fathoms; the best anchorage is in 12 fathoms. 

Port curanipe. Following to the northward the coast is a continuous line, 
and offers no shelter as far as the river Maule ; it is elevated 
aud partially wooded. About 30 miles from point Boquita 
is a small indentation, called port Curanipe, where vessels 
sometimes anchor, but are only sheltered from SE. winds; 
the bottom is good; it can accommodate about 20 vessels 
in from 6 to 14 fathoms. In the southern part of this port is 
a small cove, in which coasters load and take refuge. The 
river Curanipe empties intoit, having a bar of J mile in length, 
which increases and extends so far to the northward in the 
summer that the small vessels caunot cross it. This gener- 
ally takes place with S. winds, which blow almost constantly 
in these latitudes without raising much sea, the contrary 
being the case with IS. winds. 

Boats can water in the river above tide- water; the beach 
is always dangerous for boats. There are two mooring- 
buoys in the roads, and a telegraph station on point Tra- 
rado, the southern extremity of the bay. 

The isolated hill, Centinela, a little to the northward, is 
a good landmark for recognizing the bay. 



Cape HnmoB. 






CAPE CARRANZA. 191 

The bay called Zorro, or Fox, which is 10 miles in extent cape carranza. 
and limited to the northward by cape Carranza, can hardly 
be called a bay ; it is an exposed bight. Just to the north- 
ward of Caranipe and about 56 miles from Caliumo, this cape 
is quite a low projection of the coast, where small vessels 
can find temporary shelter among the rocks which surround 
it ; but it is best to avoid it, as for nearly 10 miles on either 
side there is an inhospitable shore of sand and stone. 

Cape Humos is 17 miles X. 28° E. from cape Carranza ; 
it is a remarkable promontory running out to the westward, 
and is more elevated than the other land on this part of the 
coast ; it is steep, and there are no dangers in its vicinity. 

Close to the coast, 4 miles X. 39° E. of cape Humos, and Yglesia rock - 
1 mile S. 62° W. of the entrance of the river Maule, is Ygle- 
sia rock; it is remarkable and serves as a landmark for the 
mouths of the river. 

The entrance of the river Maule cannot be mistaken, as riv ^" M^ufe. ' the 
the coast to the southward is rocky and the land high, in 
contrast with the long sandy beach to the northward. Not 
far from Yglesia rock is a remarkable barren space of gray 
sand on the side of a hill, whereas the heights between cape 
Humos and the rock are generally covered with vegetation 
and partially wooded. The highest mountains in the chain 
reach an elevation of from 1,000 to 1,300 feet; those between 
the coast and the river being from 500 to 900 feet. 

Anchorage off 

Vessels can anchor off the bar, during good weather, in the bar. 
from 10 to 14^ fathoms, sandy bottom. There are no hidden 
dangers, excepting a large sand-bank to the northward of 
the river, formed by the alluvial deposits, which extending 
to seaward prevent the approach from that side; at this 
anchoiage vessels can get under way readily. 

Cape Maule, which is surmounted by a flag- staff, forms 
the southern part of the entrance to the Maule river. It is a 
steep granite cliff, called Mutun by the Chilians, having a 
beach on either side ; it is terminated by a sandy point, 
called Entrance point, which runs out IS". 5° W. J mile. 

At the southern extreme of Mutun, and at the entrance 
of the port, are two high rocky pyramids, the one called 
Ventana, from having a hole through it, the other Piedra 
Lobos, it being frequented by the sea-wolf. 

Sometimes boats laud on the outside head of cape Maule, 



192 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Bar. 



(Jonstitucion. 



Description. 



but it is very dangerous, as the sea is always high and un- 
certain ; the beach also is very steep and the sand soft, so 
that it is difficult to haul even a whale-boat on shore. There 
is a better landing near Yglesia rock, though that is bad ; it 
is best to procure balsas and moor the boats outside of the 
surf. 

The bar extends a distance of 766 yards to the northward 
of cape Maule. From May to October it has on it from 2J 
to 3J fathoms ; but from October to March only from 1J to 
2£ fathoms; it should not be crossed without a pilot, and 
vessels have often to wait, even during the dry season, for 
a week before they can cross it. 

If it was not for the bar of the river Maule the commerce 
of this locality would be very flourishing ; notwithstanding 
this the small village of Oonstifcucion, on the south bank of 
the river, 1 mile from its mouth, would become prosperous, 
with the aid of a few small steamers and some engineering 
work on the bar. 

The anchorage off the town is about 656 yards long and 
220 wide ; the bottom is mud with a depth of from 3 to 
6 fathoms. Vessels must anchor with one anchor in the 
current and the other inshore, so as to ride out the freshets 
in winter, and in summer the violence of the south winds. 

Vessels can be careened and pure water procured from 
the river. The government keeps a tow-boat, but it is often 
absent. There is a pilot. 

As the current is too strong to allow permanent buoys, 
the authorities of the harbor place small ones when neces. 
sary, removing them when no longer required. Ballast is 
thrown on the shore north of the entrance. 

Seen from mount Oaracol, the town has a picturesque as- 
pect ; behind it is a series of mountains and hills which 
terminate at the sea ; farther there is a small sand-hill and 
then Mutun head. 

Oonstitucion, which is opposite an island in the river, is 
in the center of a country rich in agricultural and mineral 
products, which reach it by the river. The town is not far 
from the Upsallata pass in the Andes, which was discovered 
in 1805, and is the only pass practicable for wagons be- 
tween the isthmus of Darien and Patagonia. Small coast- 
ing-steamers run between Oonstitucion and Valparaiso. 



RIVER MAULE. 193 

The forests around Oonstitucion have excellent timbers 
from which are built large numbers of small vessels and 
boats ; the town has a dock for careening vessels and 12 
repairing yards. Bricks are manufactured. The principal 
products of the country are vegetables, cereals, fruits, and 
liquors. Oonstitucion is the harbor of export of the prov- 
inces of Talca and Maule ; the population is about 10,000. 

It is high water, full and change, at the river Maule at Tides - 
10 h ; springs rise 5 feet. 

The river Maule has its source m the Maule lagoon ; it is River Maule 
160 miles long and is navigable for vessels for 9, and for 
large boats for 77, miles. It is subject to very rapid cur- 
rents, the bottom is sand and pebbles, and bad holding- 
ground. It is navigated by some 300 boats, most of which 
are constructed at Oonstitucion. 

From the river Maule the coast trends to the KNE. for 12 E1 Pefion - 
miles to Peiion point, the northern point of the entrance to 
the river Mataquito or False Maule, so called from having 
frequently been mistaken for the entrance of the Maule Eiver Mataquito 
river. In this stretch of coast there is 5 miles of sandy 
shore backed by mountains 1,300 feet high. There is no 
anchorage where a vessel could remain without danger, 
though the depths are moderate, as she would be exposed 
to the full force of the sea and prevailing winds. 

To the northward of Mataquito river, about 3 miles N. £ Hoca point. 
W. of El Pehon is Hoca point, rugged and surrounded by 
rocks ; close to it is a house in ruins. 

Llico road, in latitude 34° 46' S., longitude 72° 06 / W., LUco road - 
affords an anchorage in from 8 to 12 fathoms, bottom fine 
sand; the holding-ground is good, and the anchors can be 
weighed easily ; vessels should always get under way on 
the first indications of bad weather. 

At the head of this small indentation, which is full of 
sand-banks formed by deposits of the river Mataquito, is 
the entrance of the channel leading to Yichuquen lagoon ; 
it is closed during the summer, or season of southerly winds, 
and open during the winter. The passage to the lagoon is 
shoal, from 3 to 6 feet deep ; it is 4 miles long, and its en- 
trance is always dangerous for boats as the swell sets in. 

The greatest length of the Yichuquen lagoon is 5 miles 

13 c 






194 FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 

NE. and SW.; it is deep and could be made a fine anchor- 
age by improving the channel to the sea. Near this lagoon 
are two others, named Torca and Tilicura, and also the town 
of Vichuquen, which is 4 to 6 miles from the mountain of 
the same name, on which is the best wood for ship-building 
found in Chile. The bar of Llico is dangerous. Vessels 
should not, therefore, use their boats, but await the native 
boats, which will be sent off when the bar is safe, at a charge 
of nine dollars. Fresh meat alone can be obtained, and that 
only occasionally. Cape Lora is 14 miles N. of Llico. 

coast. There are several unimportant coves to the northward of 

Llico — Salinas, Palos Blancos, Serena, Cahucil, and Petrel — 
which have no shelter, and landing in them is dangerous. 
Colcura, Polcura, and Palos Negros are a little more ex- 
tended than the former, and landing is less dangerous. At 
J mile from the land there is from 10 to 12 fathoms of water 
over a bottom of fine sand. 

Topoi ca m a Topolcama road is to the northward of the point of the 
same name, in latitude 34° 09' S., and longitude 72° 01' W. 
The anchorage is rather less sheltered against south winds 
than that of Turn an, but it is not much exposed to the 
northward ; it is not large, and is insufficient for a vessel of 
more than 200 tons ; vessels can get under way easily. A 
Chilian observer states that the N. winds do not cause a 
heavy swell, or at least not so much as to endanger a vessel. 
The effects of the winds are most sensible on the beach ; a 
landing can always be effected with south winds, but it is 
difficult with those from the northward, except under the 
point. The shore of this roadstead is mostly surrounded by 
a bank, which can hardly be crossed by boats at half-ebb - 7 
it is formed from October to April by the influence of the 
southerly winds and the coast current ; the north winds 
destroy it, blowing the sand back to the beach. This bank 
is very inconvenient, and becomes dangerous as soon as the 
sea is the least agitated. The channel between it and the. 
beach is always subject to a northerly current, with a ve- 
locity of 1 J to 2 J miles at spring- tides. 

There is fresh water in several places within from 600 to 
800 yards of the sea ; a little beyond there is an estuary. 
There is wood in the vicinity, but of inferior quality. 
Topolcama and the ports to the northward and southward 



TUMAN ROADSTEAD, 



195 



Tides. 



Santo Domingo 
point. 



are all subject to the same inconvenience, namely, sand- 
banks, tremendous surf, and a coast-current. All the coast 
from Llico is high and steep, with plenty of water. 

It is high water, full and change, at Topolcama at 9 h oo m -, 
springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

Santo Domingo point is 2n'NE. 4 miles from Topolcama 
point; it is 334 feet high, and is the south point of Tuman 
bay ; there are 6 fathoms close to the north and west sides 
of the point, with no outlying dangers. 

The road of Tuman, 4 miles X. of Topolcama, lies between Road of Tuman. 
Santo Domingo and Barrancas points ; it is sheltered to the 
S. and open to winds from the N.$ the bottom is the same 
as along the rest of the coast, fine sand, with from 5J to 10 
fathoms. The anchorage is under Santo Domingo point, 
bottom sand and clay. There are no currents as to the 
northward and southward, but the beaches are so flat that 
small boats ground at half-ebb GO yards from the shore. In 
the winter the sea and wind throw up the sand of the 
beaches. Under the shelter of the pointed south point is a 
small indentation, which is not encumbered by rocks, and 
where there are 3 J fathoms at the foot of the point ; the 
landing is tolerable, and better perhaps than at Curanipe, 
Llico, and Buchupureo; fresh water is scarce. Vessels 
must get under way on signs of a northerly wind. 

It is high water, full and change, at Tuman bay at 9 b 55 m ; 
spring rise, 6 feet ; neaps, 4 feet. 

El Farallon del Infernillo is an island in the form of a 
pyramid, £ mile N. of Barrancas point and close to the shore ; 
it is easily recognized when nearing Topocalma point, which 
is the best point for a vessel to make when bound for Tuman 
bay. 

Papuya cove, completely open to north, is 13 miles X. 30° 
E. from point Topolcama ; to the southward of its entrance 
is a group of islands of the same name, the largest of which 
is 600 yards long ; it shelters the cove somewhat from south- 
erly winds; some coasters visit it. Vessels can pass through 
the channel between the island and the continent, and in an 
emergency anchor to the north or south. 

This cove is worse than those to the south of Topolcama; 
boats can land under the shelter of a large rock, which lies 
\ mile from the S. point. 



Tides. 



Farallon del In- 
fernillo. 



Papuya 
and islands. 



196 FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 

Matanza cove. Matanza cove is about 2 miles from Papuya ; it is a little 
more protected from south winds by some islets which close 
it in that direction, but it has only capacity for one small 
vessel, and it must be left on the first sign of a northerly 
wind. The cove may be recognized by a ravine with a 
small inlet, called Matancilla, on the north side of which is 
a house with its north side painted white and its roof red ; 
the hills north of the ravine are high and green, while those 
to the south of it are of sand. 

BayofNavidad. Navidad bay is 4 miles KE. of Papuya; it is a bad and 
exposed anchorage; no better than the open sea. The south 
winds, which predominate, cause the heaviest swell; the 
water is shallow and the breakers commence a long distance 
out. £k>rth winds are more dangerous, as the anchorage is 
near the south coast, and the beach is bordered by sunken 
rocks. The landing-place is similar to that of Papuya. 

Rapei river. Point Eapel is on the northern coast of JSavidad bay, a 

little to the southward of Eapel river, whose mouth is 60 
yards wide ; the bar, which is bad, is 50 yards in front of 
it, and has on it 1J fathoms at high tide. 

About 1 J miles from the land, opposite Oerro de Oolenar, 
is a sunken rock, over which the sea breaks. All the rest 
of the cove from this shoal to cape Bucalemo is clear. 

cape Buca- About 3 miles NW. of point Eapel is cape Bucalemo, a 

lemo. 

steep cliff 200 feet high. Two miles K 74° W. from the 
cape is Eapel sho al, often called Tapolcama bank. 

Eapei shoai. Eapel shoal is 1 mile long, and has three rocky points 
above water, on which the sea always breaks 2 miles from 
the coast. There is plenty of water around the shoal, the 
soundings gradually increasing from 9f to 50 fathoms. Ves- 
sels must not approach this bank, as with fresh SW. winds 
the swell always sets over it, and the current, which runs 
more than 1 knot, sets across the reef. 

Toro point and Toro point is 5J miles N. by E. from cape Bucalemo. K. 
20° E. of the most salient part of point Toro, 2,737 yards 
distant, is a reef, 820 yards long E. and W., and 347 yards X. 
and S. Toro shoal lies 3,062 yards ST. 53° E. of point Toro, 
and 875 yards from the nearest land ; the channel between 
this shoal and the reef has 12 fathoms water, sandy bottom, 
and between it and Toro point there are- 10 to 13 fathoms, 
sand. These two dangers, located by captain Luis Pomar, 






EIYER 3IAIP0. 197 

of the Chilian navy, would appear to be those heretofore re- 
ported, but in an uncertain position. 

There is less water on this coast than on that farther to 
the south, there being but 14 fathoms 1 mile from the land. 
To the eastward of point Toro there is another indentation, 
in which there is a sand-bank about 1 mile off its shores ; 
there is no description of this cove. 

From point Toro the coast trends about X. for 15 miles, to Mai P° river - 
point Eoca Blanca, forming a slight bend, in the center of 
which the Ataipo river empties; it is closed by a bar, which 
continues to the northward about 2 miles, parallel to the 
coast. 

About 3 miles XXE. of this river is the small cove San p^ts of s a n 

Antonio Viejo and 

Antonio Viejo, which offers tolerable shelter to a small num- Nueva 
ber of coasters, when anchored under the lee of a pointed 
hill. 

About 2 miles to the northward of this hill is the small cove 
of las Bodegas, or San Antonio Nuevo, which has been fre- 
quented for some time by large vessels ; the holding-ground 
is good, with a moderate depth. With good ground-tackle 
and a long scope a vessel can ride out a norther as well as 
at Valparaiso. The bay is surrounded by high sand- beaches 
of different colors ; there was no pilot in 1S72. This harbor 
was used by the Chilians during the blockade of Valparaiso 
by the Spaniards ; guns of large caliber were landed and 
large cargoes of grain shipped. 

About 13 miles to the eastward of San Antonio Nuevo are 
heights of 3,270 feet, 

The beach, called Carthagena, to the northward of las Bo- 
degas, is completely open to S W. winds. Point Tres Cruces 
is low and rocky; 5 miles XW. of it is point Boca Blanca, 
so called from its white rocks, by which it is easily recog- 
nized; these rocks seem black when seen from the SE. A 
sunken rock has been reported 1 to 5 miles off Eoca Blanca 
and about 21 miles south of Carraumilla point. 

The land makes in to the S. eastward from Peiia Blanca, Aigarrobo 
forming a small bight, called El Canelillo, having in it from 
9 to 11 fathoms of water, and open to the X W. Six hundred 
yards XXE.of Peila Blanca is an island, called Pajaros Xiiios, 
lying less than 200 yards from the shore. About 1,200 yards 
XX W. |W. from Pajaros Xiiios is a rocky plateau, called 



198 



FEOM CONCEPOION TO COQUIMBO. 



Shoal. 



Quintay cove. 



Carauma head 



Point 
milla. 



Carau 



los Farallones, which extends 400 yards to the MW., with 
from 8 to 2^ fathoms near its edges, and from 11 to 23 fath- 
oms, with some spots of 7 to 9 fathoms, between it and Paja- 
ros Ninos. 

From Pajaros Ninos the coast trends to the eastward and 
again to the north, forming Algarrobo roads, protected 
only to the southward, where temporary anchorage may be 
had in from 18 to 28 fathoms, opposite the small village of 
Algarrobo, where wood, water, and fresh provisions can be 
procured. 

A rocky shoal with 9 feet of water over it lies N. 27° E., 
1,800 yards from the west of point Pajaros Ninos, and N. 84° 
E., 1,350 yards from the northern rock of Los Farallones. 

Point Gallo, a peaked cliff, is 7 miles to the northward of 
point Algarrobo ; between them are two sandy indentations 
divided by a rocky point. A small vessel can find shelter 
against N. winds in the northern one, named Tunquen, close 
under point Gallo ; there is not room for a large vessel. The 
coast, which trends to the northward from point Gallo to 
Quintay cove, is bordered by cliffs ; the cove affords no shel- 
ter, and has a reef of rocks in its center.; boats can, however, 
find refuge in one of its corners. 

Quintay Fraile rock lies 1,695 yards N. 54° 25' W. of point 
Lobos, the southern point of Quintay cove ; as yet no sound- 
ings have been taken round the rock.* 

From the cove of Quintay the cliffs extend 3 miles, to cape 
Carauma, a remarkable promontory, which deserves special 
notice, as it is generally the first land made by vessels com- 
ing from the south, or even the west, during the summer, 
bound for Valparaiso. The cape itself is a high cliff, and 
above it the land rises rapidly to the two high chains of Ca- 
rauma, the most elevated of which is 1,830 feet, which is 2 
miles inland, and N. 61° E. from the cape. From seaward 
the high part of the chain of Carauma is usually seeu above 
the cape in clear weather, and in the distance the Campana 
de Quillota, 6,230 feet high, 30 miles inland. If the Andes 
be seen, the volcano of Aconcagua, 80 miles inland, and 
23,200 feet high, will be recognized. 

Caraumilla point is 4 miles N. 51° W. from the heights 
which overlook cape Caraumilla ; although it is not low, it 



* Captain Luis Pomar, Chilian navy. 



VALPARAISO BAY. . 199 

appears so when compared with the surrounding country ; 
it is abrupt and rocky ; there are two or three islets close to 
it. It is proposed to build a light-house here with an appa- 
ratus of the 1st order, showing a white flash-light, visible 
for 40 miles. 

Angeles point, the NW. extremity of the coast, which Point deioB An 
forms the bay of Valparaiso, is 7 miles ]ST. 50° E. from point 
Caraumilla. Between these points the coast forms a deep 
and angular bight, bordered to the westward by scattered 
rocks and to the eastward by steep cliffs ; this is the bay of 
Lagunilla, which may be taken for that of Valparaiso. 

On point Angeles, the western of the bay, and at the end J^: Lat. ?i° 
of a plain called Playa Ancha, from a round white tower 61 38 ' 15 " w - 
feet high from base to vane, and 180 feet above the sea, is 
shown a fixed white light, varied by & flash every minute, pre- 
ceded by a short eclipse. During clear weather it can be 
seeu 16 miles, but ordinarily only from 6 to 7 ; its position 
is good. When coming from the southward, the light is 
eclipsed by the land until it bears to the eastward of X. 
44° E. ; and the breakers off Caraumilla point are not cleared 
until it bears to the eastward of N. 52° E. 

Baj a rock is a small rock showing a little above water ; it B »J a or Laja 
is about 164 feet long from K. to S. and 82 feet broad from 
E. to W. ; its position is 164 yards to the eastward of the 
eastern part of point de los Angeles ; near it there is plenty 
of water. It can be passed as near as convenient, and then 
the bay, which opens to the southward, can be entered. 

Valparaiso bay is of a semicircular form, with a capacity ? a ? of vaipa^ 
for more than 300 vessels between point de los Angeles and 
the cove of El Baron; it is well sheltered except to the JS"« 
During the winter, when the wind from that direction pre- 
vails, a heavy swell sets in. 

The depths at the anchorge vary from 2 to 47 fathoms, 
bottom stiff mud. The rapid rise of the bottom prevents 
a vessel from dragging during north winds, but makes the 
anchorage a poor one with southerly winds. The great 
depth makes it difficult to weigh anchor with the heavy 
swells of the winter season. 

The best anchorage is close to port San Antonio or Cas- 
tillo Viejo, in the SW. corner of the bay, in from 16 to 19 
fathoms of water; but this is generally full of lighters and 



200 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Leading light. 



Description. 



it can hold but a few vessels ; it is necessary to choose an 
anchorage in from 27 to 33 fathoms. In summer the best 
is near the land, but in winter outside of other vessels and 
to the southward of the buoy near Baja. 

Merchant vessels must anchor in the berths assigned to 
them by the captain of the port. They generally wait for 
this order near the buoys off the Laja ; this is obligatory 
to all vessels having powder on board. Men-of-war always 
anchor outside of the merchant vessels, or in line with the 
English store-ship. 

During the summer heavy squalls sweep down the mount- 
ains from the southward ; clear weather and high barome- 
ter indicate strong winds from that quarter. When the 
barometer is low and the weather cloudy and distant points, 
such as the hill of port Papudo and the heights near the 
bay of Pichidanqui, are distinctly seen, a north wind must 
be expected. 

Northers often occur without causing damage, but their 
effects are often most disastrous. Some captains prefer 
anchoring near the shore, for the reason that the sea break- 
ing against the coast produces an under-tow which eases 
the chains, but i n that position the outside vessels are lia- 
ble to drive down upon them and the sea is still heavy. 
During a norther the best anchorage is about 200 yards 
from the point next out side of San Antonio ; there is more 
protection from the W. and NW. swell which accompanies 
NW. winds than in deeper water. As the water at the edge 
of the bank in this part of the bay deepens rapidly from 16 
to 35 fathoms, vessels wishing to anchor here should drop 
their anchor on the bank, and not immediately outside of 
it $ in the latter case the anchor would be on the slope of 
the bottom and the vessel would drag when the chains 
surged. 

As all small vessels have to discharge at one place a 
white, blue, and red revolving leading light with intervals 
of 16 seconds has been placed on the H". end of the esplan- 
ade in front of the exchange, this being the authorized 
spot. The apparatus is dioptric of the sixth order, placed 
on an iron column 32 feet high. The light is 39 feet above 
the sea and can be seen from 4 to 5 miles. 

The bay of Valparaiso was first visited in 1536, but the 



VALPARAISO. 201 

town was not founded until 1544, when it was officially de- 
clared the port of Santiago. 

Valparaiso presents a magnificent spectacle from the bay. 
It is built in the shape of an amphitheater on the slope of 
the hills or cuestas which rise to a height of 1,000 to 1,400 
feet j on one of these is a signal-mast, from which approach- 
ing vessels are signaled ; alongside of it is the house of 
the guard. 

In 1832 the city was composed of one long street of scat- 
tered houses, extending along the beach ; since that time 
it has been improved and enlarged, fine buildings have 
been raised, the streets paved, and improvements are still 
going on. 

The cuestas, on which the city is built, are called Ar- 
rayan, Carretas, Cordillera, Bellavista, Panteon, Allegre, 
and Conception. The two latter are covered with gardens 
and two-story houses. The city is divided into three princi- 
pal quarters, el Puerto, San Juan de Dios, and el Almendral. 

The first, the western part of the city, is occupied by pub- 
lic offices, barracks, and buildings pertaining to shipping 
and commerce. On the side of fort San Antonio are nu- 
merous store-houses ; a fine custom-house faces the quay, 
which has been extended ; off it are two floating docks, 
called the Santiago and the Valparaiso ; the latter, which can 
take vessels of less than 1,200 tons, was launched in 18G3, the 
other was launched in 1865, and is 305 feet in length. These 
docks were much needed considering the difficulties and 
large cost of hauling vessels up or heaving them down, and 
that the latter could only be done during the good season, 
from September to May. This was done at the arsenal on 
the west side of the mole. The principal mole, which was 
rebuilt in 1870, was again destroyed in 1871. The swell 
caused by N. winds washes it and often interrupts landing 
and discharging during the winter, and even in the spring. 

The second quarter, San Juan de Dios, has only stores 
and store-houses. The third, El Almendral, is the richest 
and finest ; the fine squares, and the large street of la Vic- 
toria, 68 feet wide, serve the public for a promenade, as 
there is no paseo. 

During the bombardment of 1866 it was proposed to 



202 FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 

guard the city from the repetition of such an insult, and it 
is now protected by 14 well-armed batteries. 

Although the surrounding hills of Valparaiso contain 
much good water, the city is always in want of it ; a com- 
pany was formed in 1868 to remedy this inconvenience, so 
that now water is brought to the city, in iron pipes, from 
reservoirs built on the hills. 

Valparaiso has an exchange, a large number of hotels 
and churches; English, French, and American hospitals, 
not including the Chilian; a splendid fire department, banks, 
benevolent institutions, &c. 

A railroad, 99 miles long, connects the capital, Santiago, 
with Valparaiso. The latter has a city tramway, carriage 
companies, &c. There is a telegraph between the two 
cities. 

The city of Valparaiso had a population of about 97,000 
in 1875. 

Sand ballast is thrown on the Baja and on the Oabriteria, a 
small point limiting the Almendral to the NE. Stone ballast 
is thrown between the place del'Orden and the government 
mole ; the boats must go as close to the land as possible. 

Quarantine has to be passed in the bay of Quintero and 
in the cove to the northward of point Cabriteria, but the 
latter is a dangerous anchorage with N. winds. Generally 
speaking, there is no quarantine, and vessels are only kept 
under observation at Vines del Mar. 

Water-tanks, with pumps, bring good water to vessels. 
It is the best port for provisioning on the west coast of 
South America. Beef, vegetables, and other provisions are 
abundant at comparatively low prices ; but these are con- 
stantly increasing. 

There are numerous mooring-buoys in the bay. The 
outer ones serve in getting under way. Two Chilian com- 
panies possess 7 tow-boats, besides lanchas. The boats are 
repaired on the beach between the Quebrada de Juan 
Gomez and the battery Chacabuco ; a new mole is being 
constructed at this place. There are five pilots. 
Directions. Vessels coming from seaward should make the land in 

latitude 33° 20' S. during the ten months of southerly 
winds ; the mountains will always be seen before any other 
part of the coast. Among them is the volcano Aconcagua, 



VALPARAISO. 203 

whose summit is nearly always covered with snow; the 
highest, which is its western part, has an irregular form 
and several peaks; the SE. portion is level and regular. 
When the summit, which is 90 miles from Valparaiso, bears 
X. 74° E., it is in line with the light-house. 

About 27 miles from Valparaiso is the remarkable mount- 
ain la Oampana de Quillota, already mentioned ; the middle 
of its rugged summit is especially called the Oampana, and 
when it bears X. 84° E. it is in line with the light-house. 
As the two mountains are generally visible, they are good 
leading marks for the light. 

On coming from the northward, when point Molles or 
Quiutero, 18 miles K 5° E. from the light, has been recog- 
nized, care must be taken not to get too near the land, on 
account of Quintero and Goncon rocks. 

All vessels bound to Valparaiso should try to make point 
Oaraumilla; sailing-vessels must not approach the coast 
near Rapel bank, as the SW. swell and the current set 
toward this dangerous part of the coast; from Topolcama 
the current runs at times toward this shoal with a velocity 
of more than 1 knot. 

Soundings, 14 miles west of cape Bucalemo; on the paral- 
lel of Eapel bank, show 110J fathoms, fine sand; 6 miles to 
seaward of point Oaraumilla, 116 fathoms ; and off the west 
point of the bay the same depth, with muddy bottom. Dur- 
ing the wiuter months there is sometimes a current of 1 
mile an hour to the southward. Soundings should be taken 
when approaching the land in dark and foggy weather. 

Although a vessel may have a good wind outside of the 
bay in the morning and forenoon, she will generally lose it 
at the entrance. It is therefore best to use the breeze as 
much as possible to pass close to Baja rock, and then steer 
directly for the roads, taking in sail if the wind dies out, 
and running the chance of reaching the anchorage. In the 
afternoon, and with southerly winds, reefs must be taken; 
for though the wind may be moderate outside, there are 
violent gus's which sweep down the mountain in the bay; 
when the wind at sea requires one reef in the topsails, 
treble- reefed topsails and foresail will probably be suffi- 
cient sail for the bay ; and if the wind from that quarter is 
fresh outside, a vessel cannot carry more than close-reefed 



204 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Tides. 



topsails over reefed courses, or perhaps over a reefed fore- 
sail only, in the bay. When a vessel finds that the wind is 
too strong to reach the anchorage by tacking, it is best to 
keep under short sail, close to point los Angeles, until the 
wind moderates, which it does generally in a few hours. 

When a vessel is approaching with a northerly wind, with 
indications of a gale, it is best to keep an offing until it 
shifts to the westward of NW.,. which it always does after 
a few hours of strong northerly wind. It appears that the 
sea is constantly receding in the bay ; in 1845 there were 
houses where the sea broke in 1830. Every day buildings 
are erected which encroach on the bay, and the heavy 
winter rains wash such large quantities of earth into it as 
to form banks along the shore. This is mostly taking place 
in the parts of the bay least exposed to the X. wind. 

It is high water, full and change, at Valparaiso, at 9 h 
40 m ; rise about 5 feet. 
Concon rocks. The NE. shore of the bay of Valparaiso to point Con con 
is formed alternately by beaches and rocks. To the NE. 
of point Cabriteria is the shore of the siete Hermanas, off 
which vessels must not anchor ; the road from Valparaiso 
to Santiago follows this shore. Behind Goncon point is a 
small cove in which anchorage may be had during ordinary 
weather, in 11 fathoms of water, bottom fine sand. The 
rocks of that name are N". 6° W., 3 J miles from the point; 
during light winds they should be given a wide berth, 
though they are above water, as vessels are drifted toward 
them by the south swell and a current to the northward ; a 
line joining Concon and Quintero points clears them to the 
eastward ; the breakers around them extend about 330 yards 
N. and S., and about 550 yards E. and W. 

The land between Concon and the bay of Herradura de 
Quintero, 10 miles to the northward, is generally high and 
steep, and, as all this coast, presents a barren and inhospit- 
able aspect during bad weather; here and there a few trees 
are visible ; during the winter and spring there is but 
little verdure near the coast. The bay of Quintero opens 
to the westward of the hill on point Liles or Quintero, which 
can be passed close-to ; it is large and sheltered from S. 
winds, but entirely open to the NW. In the NE. part of 
the bay, however, uuder point Ventaailla, there is a spot 



Bay of Herra- 
dura de Quintero, 



MALENAS BANK. 



205 



somewhat sheltered to the northward, containing a watering- 
place when the season is not too dry. This bay offers a 
good and spacious anchorage during the summer, and some 
prefer it even to Valparaiso. The best berth for letting go 
the anchor is in 13 fathoms, fine sand, \ mile east of the 
eastern part of point Liles, 1 mile from the head of the bay. 
A small vessel can stand farther in. 

The Chilian government has decreed the establishment 
of a city at Quintero. 

Malenas bank, N. 71° W. from point Liles, has been Malenas bank. 
examined by the commander of the steamer Ancud, who 
found the bank 1,530 yards from the shore, extending 220 
yards east and west, with soundings varying from 6J to 9 
fathoms. As the bank is rocky it is not improbable that 
there are some points covered by less water. The sea breaks 
heavily, with strong winds on the coast or winds from the 
NW, There are 11 fathoms at its edge, and 30 fathoms 380 
yards to the westward of the bank. The channel between 
it and the coast is navigable and clear of danger ; its depth 
is 15 fathoms, but it shoals to 8 fathoms 220 yards from 
Liles point. 

Captain Luis Eomar reports that during his late hydro- 
graphic researches off the coast of Quintero, he discovered 
a new bank of rocks WN W. of Malenas bank. It is situated 
N. 00° W. from Liles point, and has 11 fathoms of water 
over it. It extends from S W. to NE. for 110 yards, more or 
less, and the sea breaks heavily on it during the storms from 
the north to west. Between this new bauk and Malenas 
bank there is a depth of from 20 to 27 fathoms, with rocky 
bottom. The sea from the SW. on the banks is heavy and 
violent, and it would be well to avoid approaching them in 
bad weather. Many soundings were taken without finding 
a less depth than those given, but it is not unlikely that 
there are rocks approaching nearer the surface. 

The eastern part of point Liles has three dangerous pro- T <>rtuga rock. 
jections. The middle one is terminated by Tortuga rock, 
besides which, a shoal of rocks lies about 400 yards from 
the land, separated from it by a channel with 5 fathoms, 
and about 656 yards from the junction of the cliff with the 
sand-beach. This shoal is also called Tortuga j it is never 
uncovered, and must be looked out for when keeping near 
the land. 



206 



FROM OONCEPCION.TO COQUIMBO. 



Captain Luis Komar, of the steamer Ancud, states that, 
according to the inhabitants of Quintero, the true Tortuga 
rock is not the one marked on the charts, but that it is 
detached from the point and situated farther to the south- 
ward. It is about 260 yards from the coast, aud bears S. 
55° W. from the Tortuga of the charts, distant from it 
about 450 yards. It shows above water only at spring-tides r 
and the depth around it varies from 3J to 4 fathoms ; the 
beacon on Tortuga rock has been restored ; it consists of a 
bar of iron supporting a small white cylinder. 

At the head of the bay is a sand-beach, from which to 
point Yentanilla the coast, in the shape of an arc of a circle, 
is called la Herradura de Quintero $ it is bordered by low 



hills, 



which there are lagoons. Fresh water is 



found here when the season is not too dry. 

Quintero rocks. Quintero rocks are 4 miles N". 5° E. from point Liles, and 
1J miles N. 74° W. from cape Horcon. They are above 
water, but low, scattered, and dangerous ; they are of a 
dark color, and extend about J mile. 

cape Horcon. Cape Horcon is 3 J miles from point Liles ; it is formed of 
cliffs 100 feet high, of a dark color. At the extremity of 
the most projecting cliff is a remarkable formation ; back 
of it the land is level and higher. In the interior are 
elevated plateaus, and beyond is the Cordillera of the Andes. 

Horcon bay. One mile £T. 83° E. from cape Horcon is Horcon bay, 
where a landing can be easily effected among the project- 
ing rocks. Plenty of excellent fresh water, fish, and fire- 
wood, and small quantities of fresh provisions can be ob- 
tained. The roadstead is good during the south winds 
which blow nine months of the year. At \ mile K of the 
landing-place are from 10 to 14 fathoms, bottom fine sand ; 
vessels can anchor here. 

zapaiiar cove. Zapallar cove* lies 10 miles to the N". of cape Horcon ; it 
extends E. and W. 1,094 yards, with a width of 656 yards 
N. and S. The anchorage is sheltered from the southwest 
winds by a verdant islet, 138 feet high, called Litis, or 
Morro del Potrerillo, which is connected to the main-land by 
a narrow sandy strip, over which the sea flows during gales 
of wind. 



Lieutenant Luis Uribe, Chilian navy. 



PORT PAPUDO. 207 

/ 

The western headland of the cove is called Punta Zapallar. 

The shores of the cove are rocky and fringed with break- 
ers, the eastern part presenting a sandy shore, bold, and 
unapproachable in any weather ; in its northeast extremity 
is the only watering-place ; the water is good but not abun- 
dant. 

The landing-place is at a stony point in a creek which 
empties itself into the cove in the middle of the southern 
shore, and leads to the houses of the village. It is easily 
recognized by a miserable wooden mole, used for the pur- 
pose of loading and discharging lighters. 

Pigs, sheep, and poultry can be obtained at Zapallar ; 
beef and vegetables are scarce. 

Making Zapallar from the southward, the best landmarks 
for the cove are the Cerro of Baldo, 1,017 feet high, which 
is 875 yards northeast of the anchorage, and Litis island, 
which lies off its entrance to the 8W. 

Soundings taken in the center of the cove gave 13J to 16 
fathoms water, sandy bottom. 

Position (landing-place) : Latitude 32° 33' 01" S.. longi- 
tude 71° 28' 22" W. 

Port Papudo is 13 miles north of Horcon : the coast is Port Pa P ud0 - 
steep and free from dangers. The pointed hill, 1,020 feet 
high, called El Gobernador or Cerro Verde, is an unmistak- 
able landmark for this small bay, which is an indentation 
in the coast between point Zapallar to the southward and 
point de la Cruz de la Ballena to the northward ; but port 
Papudo proper extends only between point Zapallar, the 
island Lobos, and another point, without name, to the north- 
ward, on the same meridian as the islet. The depth at the 
anchorage varies between 6 and 22 fathoms, bottom sand, 
mud, and shells. A vessel wishing to remain some time 
should anchor in 13 fathoms, muddy bottom, with Lobos 
island bearing N. 19° E., and point Zapallar X 18° W., 
600 yards from the land. 

Fitz-Roy says anchor 900 yards S". 5° E. of the landing- 
place, in the eastern part of the bay. 

In the SW. part of the bay is a small mole, used for ship- 
ping grain, wood, and copper for Valparaiso. A vessel 
could possibly moor alongside of this mole with one anchor 
to seaward and a line on shore, but it is only possible dur- 



20S 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Tides. 



Bay of Ligua. 



Bogot rock. 



Point Muelles. 



ing the fine season. Fish are caught with the seine; wood 
and fresh provisions can be procured in small quantities, 
but at a high price ; there is a fresh-water course near the 
landing. 

PoiDt Zapallar, which forms the western extremity of the 
bay, is low; it must be passed at the distance of J mile toi 
avoid the rocks around the Litis islets, which extend from 
the point. This bay offers a good anchorage during 9 months 
of the year, but is dangerous during the other three. The 
NE. point of the coast, which forms this bay, is called Liten; 
the island Lobos is N. 25° W. J mile from the point. 

The passage which separates Lobos island from the main- 
land is divided into two parts by a group of rocky shoals. 
The western passage has 11 fathoms water, irregular, rocky 
bottom, and the eastern one is shoaler, having irregular 
depths of 4 to 6 fathoms, rocky bottom. 

Both channels are impracticable with strong winds. 

It is high water, full and change, at Papudo and Quintero 
at 9 h 25 m ; rise at springs, 5 feet. 

Ligua bay is 5 miles north of Papudo and east of point 
Ligua, which is low, rocky, and foul for 400 yards. A river 
of the same name, which is not navigable, empties into its 
SE. corner. The bay has no anchorage except for the 
smallest vessels, principally on account of the heavy swell 
which sets into it. 

Bogota rock, discovered by Captain Hollaway, of the 
steamer Bogota, P. S. N. Company, was found by Lieutenant 
Luis Uribe, Chilian navy, to lie 1,640 yards S. 47° W. from 
Pichicui point, (Cruz de la Ballena.) At low-water springs 
it has 12 feet water over it, with 12J to 14 fathoms in its vi- 
cinity. The channel between it and the mainland is wide 
and deep, there being 20 to 23J fathoms in mid-channel. 

From point Pichicui or Cruz de la Ballena the coast re- 
cedes and trends to the northward for 6 miles and then W. 
for 2 miles to point Muelles, which is low, rocky, of a dark 
color, and steep-to. The shore round Muelles bay is edged 
by sand-beaches, with some low, rocky points; it, like the 
rest of the coast, is backed by high mountains. 

From point Muelles to point Salinas, the southern ex. 
tremity of the bay of Pichidanqui or Herradura, the rugged 
and rocky coast runs K. for about 8 miles. 



V, 



I 



■a 



1 
I 



II * 

i 



m 



K 



ft 



:;■■;:, 



PICHIDAXQL'I BAY 



200 



Pichidanqui bay would be hard to find if it was not for ba Pichidau( i ui 
the excellent landmark La Silla de Santa Inez, a remarkable 
conical hill in the shape of a saddle; it is 2,000 feet high, and 
lies 2 miles SE. from the harbor. When this hill bears B. 
43° E. the entrance is opened, and will be seen as the land 
is approached. 

In order to facilitate the recognition, a beacon has been 
erected on the highest part of Locos island. It is a mast 68 
feet high, surmounted by an iron cross-piece, with a barrel 
at each end, and a vane between them. It is all painted 
white, and can be seen from a distance of 5 or 6 miles. 

At 6,000 yards from point Salinas is point Lobos, with the 
island Locos immediately to the northward ; it forms the 
southern shore of the entrance to the bay, which is J mile 
wide, and extends to point Quelen to the northward. 

Gasualidad rock, which is 350 yards X. 57° E. from the casuaiidadrock 
northern extremity of Locos island, contracts the entrance 
of Pichidanqui. It has 6£ feet of water over it at low- water 
springs, and extends XE. and S W. about oo yards. This 
danger requires attention, as there is no indication of it 
whatever in good weather, though the sea breaks over it in 
bad weather from the northwestward, and with a heavy 
swell from the SW. The chaunel betweeu the island and 
the rock is clean and deep. 

Somewhat less than 2 miles X. 6° W. of Quelen point, the Tapado bank. 
north point of Pichidanqui bay, and about J mile from the 
shore, is Tapado bank, a bed of sunken rocks, over which 
the sea breaks heavily; the channel between it and the 
shore is foul. One hundred and ten yards to the XW. and 
S. of this bank there are from 42 to 51 fathoms. 

The breakers on the Tapado bank can be seen from 
Pichidanqui bay. 

As the northern portion of Locos is steep-to, Oasualidad Directions 
will be avoided by passing close to it. With a sea-breeze, 
this rock can be easily avoided. The best anchorage is close 
to the east coast of Locos, in about 5 fathoms, short 200 
yards from the shore. 

The country produces a large quantity of grain and fruit; 
there is water, but it cannot be easily obtained; there are 
plenty of sheep and cattle. Vessels visit this bay for miner- 
14 c 



210 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Caution. 



Tides. 



als, or for provisions, which can be procured at the village 
of Quilimari, situated behind the neighboring hills. 

In running along this part of the coast, there are several 
outlying rocks, which can be seen during the day, near point 
Salinas, and others which are J mile off the coast, 3 miles 
to the northward of Locos island. 

It is high water, full and change, at Pichidanqui at 9 h 
20 m ; rise at springs 5 feet. 

point changes. From Pichidanqui bay the coast trends N. to point Chan- 
gos, which is 7 miles from point Salinas, low, rocky, and sur- 
rounded by breakers. It is in latitude 31° 59' 46" S. 

cove del Negro. The coast between point Changos and point Lobos, 3 short 
miles, trends K". 16° E. and forms a spacious roadstead sur- 
rounded by rugged cliffs, but without importance to naviga- 
tors. It is named Negro cove, after a ravine a little to the 
eastward. A short distance to the southward of this cove 
and close to the land is a steep rock, to the southward of 
which is a small creek which can be entered by boats and 
small coasters. 

To the northward of the ravine is the rugged point del 
Purgatorio ; to NE. of which is another small creek or 
landing-place, which is used by the fishermen of the coast j 
it is necessary to have a pilot to cross the breakers sur- 
rounding its entrance. 

point Lobos. The coast between el Purgatorio and point Lobos is bor- 
dered by rocks and breakers which make it especially bad, 
the more so as it is open to the constant S W. swell ; during 
good weather, however, the fishermen land to eastward of 
the small hill de la Gachina, 147 feet high, where there is a 
landing-place of the same name. 

Point Lobos is 75 feet high, rugged and of a sombre color. 
About ± mile S. 84° W. of the point lies the islet de los Lo- 
bos. At J mile N. 51° W. from the island is a small bank, 
on which the sea breaks every half hour during bad weather. 
This point must not be passed nearer than § mile. 

S. 18° W. of the same point and J mile distant is another 
island, named Isla Negra ; between it and the coast are dan- 
gerous breakers, leaving a deep channel close to the island. 

point viios. Half-way between points Lobos and Vilos is a curve of 

the coast, which forms the cove of Quereo ; which is inac- 



POINT VILOS. 211 

cessible and encumbered with rocks; the sea breaking J 
mile from the coast. 

Point Vilos is 2 miles NNE. from point Lobos ; it has 
given its name to a village built on it. 

A small reef called el Desempeiio is 200 yards off this 
point, with which it is connected by a chain of rocks ; it 
uncovers at low water, and during high water it is marked 
by the surf. About % mile to the eastward of Desempeiio 
are two banks which are marked by sea- weed. They are 
just off the village and 400 yards apart ; the nearest to the 
land, which trends SW. and NE. is 400 yards wide, it has 
2J fathoms at its SW. extremity ; the depth then increases 
to the opposite end, where there is 5 fathoms. The other 
bank has not less than 2f fathoms. It is not prudent to 
anchor on these banks although the bottom is sand. 

Finally 164 yards NW. from Desempeiio is another shoal 
in 2f fathoms of water. 

About 820 yards W. of point Vilos is the islet de los Hu- Met de ios 

Iluevos. 

evos ; rocky, barren, and of a yellowish color ; its northern 
extremity is accessible in calm weather; it protects the an- 
chorage of Yilos from the WSW. 

The channel which this islet forms with the mainland is 
narrow and the sea breaks on the rocks ; it should not be 
passed even by boats when -there is any sea, as it fills at 
once with breakers. At 328 yards S. 61° W. from the south- 
ern extremity of the islet there is a rock above water, other- 
wise it is clear. Other rocks have been reported on the side 
of the channel, SE. of the same point, but at a short dis- 
tance from the shore. 

The bay of Oonchali is comprised between point Yilos Bay of con 
and cape Tablas, which is 3J miles N. 30° W. from the for- ° 
mer point. The coast between the two curves to the KE., 
and forms this extensive bay, which contains two very dif- 
ferent anchorages, which have to be chosen according to 
the season. 

There are in this bay two large precipitous rocks, one the 
isla Blanca, which lies nearest the center, and the other isla 
Yerde, N. 30° W. from the first. Isla Blanca is f mile from 
point Penitente and 1J miles from point Conchas ; a little 
to the eastward of isla Blanca is a smaller rock, remarka- 
ble for its black color, called Fantasma ; close to the east- 



212 FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 

ward of it there are three other rocks above water. Isla 
Verde is connected with the continent by a dangerous chain, 
on which the sea breaks heavily ; it is 1,420 yards from point 
Conchas. At J mile SW. from this islet is an uncovered rock, 
which is the danger farthest from the land. 

Vessels can pass between the islands Bianca and Verde ; 
there are 22 to 28 fathoms of water in the channel. 
Road de Los At li miles NE. by ST. from the island de los Huevos is 

Vilos. 

point Chuugo, whose extremity is foul ; the most elevated 
part is sandy and white ; it extends out 500 yards, and is 
remarkable for the heavy breakers on it with S. winds. In 
good weather it is possible for boats to land on either side 
by passing through the rocks, but then only with a pilot. 

The roadstead of los Vilos is the space between the island 
de los Huevos, point Vilos, and point Chungo ; this anchor- 
age, which is much frequented by steamers and sailing-ves- 
sels, is in latitude 31° 54' 34" S., and longitude 71°,39' 27" 
W. ; it is sheltered from N". and S. winds, but open to the 
W. and UW. 

The roadstead is quite large and capable of containing 
many vessels, at single anchor, in its southern part. The 
SW. swell enters the anchorage through the channel de los 
Huevos. The depth varies between 3 and 14 fathoms ; the 
best anchorage is in 9 fathoms, bottom sand and shell, N. 
61° E. from the summit of the island de los Huevos and N. 
16° E. from the signal- mast, near the office of the captain 
of the port, at the western extremity of the village. Small 
vessels can approach closer to the coast, but the depth be- 
comes irregular over a bottom of sand and stone. 

There is no mole ; the landing, which is dangerous for 
strangers, is in a small creek; the natives land readily on the 
beach during ordinary SW. winds, but with strong winds, 
the heavy surf renders all landing impossible, especially at 
low water, when all landing and discharging is inter- 
rupted. 

In winter the NW. winds cause a heavy swell and a tre- 
mendous surf in the little creek ; when the wind is fresh the 
sea breaks from the island de los Huevos to the island 
Bianca, when sailing-vessels are in great danger of drag- 
ging and being thrown on the beach ; it is then better to get 
under way, and go to Sfague cove in the NNW. of the bay§ 



POINT DEL PENITENTE. 



213 



Directions. 



Fresh provisions can be obtained without difficulty, but 
vegetables only during the summer. Water is drawn from 
a well back of the village, but it is brackish. In the vicin- 
ity, however, are excellent water-coupses, atConchali, Cerro 
de la Poza de Agua and at the Quebrada Matagorda ; these 
places are too inconvenient to admit of water being obtained 
at low prices. 

The village, which has been in existence 16 years, con- 
tains 300 inhabitants ; it is symetrically built on uneven 
ground, and there are about a dozen temporary houses 
around the custom-house. The surrounding country is ca- 
pable of cultivation, although the sand of the beach extends 
for a long distance, and the dry south winds do much harm 
to vegetation. 

Besides the banks around point Yilos there is a shoal, 
called Chacabuco, in the roadstead ; it has 5J fathoms of 
water over it and is § mile X. of the captain of the port's 
office ; it is only dangerous in bad weather. 

There is no difficulty in taking the anchorage, as the only 
hidden dangers are those around point Yilos, and these do 
not extend farther than 871 yards from the laud. 

It is water, full and change, at los Yilos 9 h 10 m ; rise at 
springs 5 J feet. 

To the MW. of point Chun go and 1J mile from it is point te ™ nt del 
del Penitente, bordered by high cliffs and distinguished by 
a large rock ; it is 233 feet high and overlooked by a hill of 
389 feet. 

Between the two points are the cove and beach of Agua 
Amarilla. The cove has an opening of 1J miles and is i 
mile deep; it is entirely open to the prevailing winds, and is 
of no importance as an anchorage. 

The beach at its head is of tine sand and is washed by 
the sea. The extremities of the cove are rocky ; in the 
midst of the rocks to the southward is a small cove called 
la Ballena, which is only accessible during very fine 
weather. 

Back of the beach is a lagoon, formed by the small river 
Conchali. The valley to the eastward, which it traverses, 
is fertile, and contrasts with the barrennessof the mountains 
in the vicinity. 

In the center of the valley is a sandy hill 175 feet high, 



Tides. 



214 



FROM COKCEPCION TO CONQU1MBO. 



to the northward of which opens the fertile gorge of Agua 
Amarilla, which has given its name to the beach. 

Sfague cove, which has an opening of about £ mile and 
about the same depth, is to the westward of point del Peni- 
tente; in it the depth varies between 4 and 10 fathoms, 
sandy bottom ; its north part is shoal. 

This cove is too small for sailing-vessels and is open to 
the SW. winds and sea, as the islands Verde and Blanca do 
not protect it at all from that quarter. The landing is at 
the beach near the rocks to the northward of point Conchas, 
and is easy when there is no surf. 

There is an excellent watering-place and plenty of fish and 
shell-fish, but no provisions. It is of some importance, as it 
is the only place in these latitudes which is sheltered against 
NW. winds, and % there is no swell from that quarter. 
point conchas. Point Conchas closes the cove to the westward; it is 
formed by a sandy hill 105 feet high ; its shores are rocky 
and a dangerous line of reefs makes out toward Verde 
island, leaving only a boat-channel. 

To the southward of the point is a small cove of the same 
name, and farther to the westward another, called Palitos ; 
but they are only frequented by fishermen during fine 
weather, and they cannot in any manner be recommended 
as landing-places, 
cape Tabias. The southern part of cape Tablas extends 1J miles to the 
westward of point Conchas ; it is low and rises gradually, 
having breakers extending J mile to the southward. 

Cape Tablas is one of the most remarkable projections of 
this coast ; it is dangerous and is almost cut to a peak ; its 
latitude is 31° 51' 24" S., longitude 71° 41' 27" W. ; it is 196 
feet high and overlooked by a hill of 265 feet. At J mile 
SSW. from the cape is an isolated rock, called Morrito del 
Pabellon. There are breakers in the immediate vicinity of 
the point. 
coraiesrock. The most serious danger is Corales rock, 1^ miles S. 34° 
W. from cape Tablas. The passage between it and cape 
Tablas is deep and free from dangers other than those near 
the cape ; during rough weather there is a short and high 
swell in this passage. 

Corales rock is more than 2J miles from the islet de los 
Huevos. From a depth of 10 to 30 fathoms near the islet 



TABLAS ROADSTEAD. 215 

the depth increases to more that 44 fathoms near the rock, 
which is N. by W. from the anchorage of los Yilos. To the 
SW. of Corales are two small rocks, which are hardly sepa- 
rated from the first ; there are from 14 to 30 fathoms around 
the group. 
The coast to the eastward of cape Tablas forms the road- Tabias road- 

stea 1. 

stead of that name by an indentation § mile in depth, and 
a little more than 1 mile broad. The best anchorage is in 
llj fathoms, sandy bottom, S. 16° W. of the eastern part of 
the island of Lilenes, and X. 73° E. of the Morrito, a small 
isolated rock north of cape Tablas and 874 yards from the 
land. The depth of the anchorage varies between 14£ fath- 
ons at the entrance and 4 fathoms near the breakers off 
th* beach. The bottom is of sand or sand mixed with 
rojk ; it is good holding-ground, and the roadstead is smooth 
diring the season of SW. winds. 

S. by E. from this anchorage is a small, steep point, with 
£ white rock off its extremity. To the eastward of it is the 
lest landing-place, but it is only tolerable, as the beaches 
ire flat and full of rocks and the surf is generally heavy. 

The vicinity of the roads is barren ; there are no provis- 
ions or water, but the latter can be obtained at Xague, J 
mile distant. There is plenty of game, especially partridges. 

Point Pechonas protects the roadstead of Tablas to the ^intiaaPecho. 
northward ; it is rocky and broken toward the sea, 255 feet 
high, and the breakers extend off it 330 yards. 

About 2 miles NE. by N. from cape Tablas is Lilenes island ; Lilene8 i8land - 
it is high and of a greenish color, pointed, and almost cir- 
cular; its diameter is 984 feet. It is separated from point 
Pechonas by a channel 874 yards in width, with from 8 to 
12 fathoms of water, bottom sand mixed with stone. The 
shore of this island is clean, but that of Pec'norLas is danger- 
ous, and the sea breaks on it heavily. 

Cebollin rock is J mile X. 58° W. from the summit of ceboiiin rock. 
Lilenes island, and 2 short miles X". 10° E. from cape Tab - 
las; it is uncovered at low and marked by breakers during 
high water. At a distance of 164 yards from it there are 
15 fathoms, bottom rock ; between it and the island there 
are 24 fathoms, rocky bottom. 

Point Loberia is 6J miles X. 9° E. from cape Tablas ; it is Jj 3 **™ Loco 
low, and terminated to the SW. by a flat, round hill. The 



216 PROM CONCEPCION TO COQTJOIBO. 

coast between these points curves in a little to the NE. and 
forms the large roadstead of Chigua Loco, which is entirely 
open to the SW., and is of no importance. 
co?e. ca del Barc ° -^N tn * s coast is bad $ the breakers commence about 271 
yards from the beach, excepting in a cove called Boca del 
Barco, situated N. 36° E. from cape Tablas, almost in line 
with the E. point of Lilenes, and more than 3 miles S. 30° 
E. from the rock off point Loberia. This small cove is used 
by coasters and boats ; it has a good anchorage off the SW. 
extremity of its beach, of pebbles. There is a dry rock id 
the center of the cove, and to the NW. of it two sunken 
rocks, which must be left to starboard when entering. The 
depth varies between 4 and 8 fathoms, muddy water. TIb 
landing-place is in latitude 31° 47' 33" S. and longitude 
71° 38 / 17" W. 

If a vessel should wish to load here, she must anchor 
mile to the westward of Salina point, the southern point o 
the cove, in from 12 to 13 fathoms, bottom sand and rocks. 
Vessels are completely exposed to the SW. swell, but the 
anchorage is preferable to that of Ghigua Loco. 
chigua Loco Between Boca del Barco and the elevated portion of poiut 
Loberia is a cay called los Bajos de Chigua Loco, § miles 
from the land, with which it is connected on the NNE. by a 
sunken ridge. To the JNB. of Bajos is the cove of Chigua 
Loco ; it is useless, and landing is seldom possible without 
danger. In its center is anchorage, in from 7 to 12 fathoms, 
sandy bottom, but it is entirely exposed to SW. winds; it 
is said that point Loberia and the Bajos shelter it from the 
NW. At the head of the cove are the houses of the haci- 
enda de Chigua Loco, which is in latitude 31° 45' 26" S. 
and longitude 71° 38'08" W. 

The coast is generally low, bad, and steep near the beach ; 
about 1J miles in the interior the mountains rise to 2,000 
and 2,600 feet. 

Point Mula Muerta lies N. 6° E. of the Bajos; it projects 
but little, is dark, and bordered by rocks. Between this 
point and Loberia are two small coves, which are separated 
by point de las Conchas. The first between las Conchas and 
Mula Muerta is called Mostaza, and admits of landing in 
fine weather, but only with an expert. To the SW. by W. 
the breakers extend § of a mile to seaward; their extremity 



telauquen.j 



POINT LOBERIA. 217 

is 8. 1G° W. from point de las Conchas, and S. 24° E. 1 mile 
from the small hill on point Loberia. 

The cove to the XW. of Mostaza is inaccessible and with- 
out importance. 

Point Loberia is a promontory of moderate height, pre Point Loberia. 
cipitous, and terminated by a small isolated hill; it is bor- 
dered by breakers, which extend 270 yards from the coast ; 
it is overlooked by a chain of mountains from 2,000 to 2,600 
feet high. Xo special description of these mountains, the 
Andes, is given, as they are so easily confounded during 
misty weather. 

The right shore runs X. for 5.J miles, to the Huentelauquen 
cove, with deep water; \ mile off shore the depth varies 
between 14 \ and 18 fathoms, bottom rock and sand; at 
1J miles the depth increases to 30 and 35 fathoms, and at 3 
miles to 60 and 70 fathoms, muddy bottom. 

Huentelauquen cove is tolerably sheltered from the SW. t jc°™ n °* \ Huen ' 
swell, and, although it is only J mile square, it has a special 
interest for the departments of Illapel and Combarbala, as 
it is the only passable port known on their coast. 

The south shore is in latitude 31° 5S' 54" S., longitude 71° 
40' 30" W. 

The depth in the cove varies between 3 and 8 fathoms; in 
the center it is 6 fathoms. A low and rocky island protects 
the anchorage from the prevailing winds and sea; the chan- 
nel which separates it from the main -land is so narrow and 
so obstructed by rocks that the SW. swell cannot pass 
through it, and only the chop made by the current is felt. 
By closing the SW. part of this channel its NE. part would 
be made into an excellent small harbor for loading small 
vessels, the isthmus would be enlarged rapidly by the sands, 
and the anchorage would not suffer from them. The sand 
is naturally deposited on a coast which makes an angle of 
40 degrees with the prevailing winds. 

Huentelauquen cove can now admit only two vessels of 
300 tons. 

The X. shore of the cove is bordered by ravines, and is 
very irregular; some rocks above water, with plenty of 
water near them, are 437 yards to seaward of it. The E. 
beach is of shifting sands; in the NE. are large dunes. 

The cove is at present without water or resources, but. 



218 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Point Pozo. 



Cove of 
river Choapa. 



Point Ventana 



Oscuro cove. 



should it become important, all these could be supplied, as 
the surrouudiDg provinces are prosperous and fertile. 

Point Pozo is to the northward of Huentelauquen cove; it 
is very irregular and steep, and its upper part is level and 
barren ; a reef makes out 400 yards from its foot. Boats 
can land, during fine weather, in a small creek SE. of the 
point. 
the To the north ward of Pozo point the coast runs in a little, and 
forms the unimportant cove of Choapa; its beach is low 
and sandy, with a heavy surf; the small hill, de los Olivos, 
about 1 mile from the sea, is a good distinguishing mark. 

The river Choapa empties at the southern extremity of 
the beach; in summer the quantity of its water is much di- 
minished, as it is drawn off to irrigate the valley, which is 
fertile and rich in products of all kinds. 

Point Yentana, in latitude 31° 36' 40" S. and longitude 
71° 41/ 26" W., terminates the cove of Choapa, and lies X. 23° 
W. from point Pozo, N. 2° E. from cape Tablas, and N. 8° 
W. from point Loberia. It is low, projecting, and danger- 
ous; to seawaid of it the sea breaks from time to time; it 
is overlooked by a chain of sandy hills, which are the north- 
ern limit of the valley of Choapa. 

Oscuro cove, 10 miles to the northward of point Yentana, 
is a small bay, running 766 yards northeast and southwest, 
having a variable width between 350 yards at its mouth 
and 219 yards at its northeast extremity, where it termin- 
ates in a sandy beach, which is ordinarily approachable for 
the light canoes of the fishermen, but not for larger boats 
during strong winds. 

Its shores are rocky, rugged, lined with numerous dan- 
gers, and covered with hills, which rise gradually toward 
the interior. 

Two detached rocks lie off the southern point, but are 
not of imminent danger; and from the northern point, 
called Burro, two sunken rocks extend toward the south, 
over which the sea breaks heavily. The farthest one lies 
142 yards from the point. 

The depths in the cove are gradual, decreasing from 25 
fathoms, sandy bottom, at the entrance, to 18, 16J, 11, and 
5J fathoms, following the center; toward the north and 



OSCURO COYE. 219 

south shores the soundings diminish gradually to 11 and 10 
fathoms at a short distance from the shores. 

Oscuro cove is an anchorage for coasting- vessels and ves- 
sels of 200 to 250 tons, anchoring in 11 fathoms, sandy bot- 
tom, in the middle of the bay. 

The entrance is easy for sailing-vessels, notwithstanding 
the narrowness of the cove, as they always have a free 
wind ; but going out is difficult ; this can be obviated by 
taking advantage of the morning calms and towing out by 
ship's boats. 

Bat little swell sets into the anchorage; it will not incom- 
mode vessels lying in the cove. 

The landing-place is to southward of the eastern sandy 
beacb, and accessible, although not very good on account of 
the surf. 

As there is no wharf, it is not always easy to embark. 

The anchorage only admits of two vessels swinging clear. 

No provisions or water can be found in the immediate 
vicinity of Oscuro cove ; but at the houses of the Tatoral 
estate, at a distance of one mile, some articles can be 
obtained. Between the houses and the cove there is a 
stream of good water ; there is also a small watering-place 
about 110 yards from the beach. Wood, and some game, 
consisting of partridges and doves, can be had in S. 
Abunda ravine. This cove is also called Tatoral. 

It is high water, full and change, at 9 h ; rise, between 1^ 
and 6^ feet. 

The approximate position is, latitude 31° 21' 20" S., 
longitude 71° 37' 30" W. 

From Yentana point the coast runs N., with a slight cove of May ten- 
inclination to the westward ; it is an almost uninterrupted 
straight line of cliffs to Mayteucillo, which is 21 miles from 
point Ventana. This small cove is only practicable for 
balsas ; a boat may land sometimes, but there are many 
hidden rocks. Its position is indicated by a large triangu- 
lar pyramid of white sand, very regutar iu form, resting on 
the cliffs bordering the coast. This landmark remains per- 
manent, thanks to the sand which the wind accumulates on 
the north side of the cove. 

Ten miles to the northward of Maytenciilo are the two 
points Tano, to the northward of which are some rocks. 



220 



FROM CONOEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Limari river. 



All the coast comprised between them and the preceding 
is composed of rocky cliffs, of a bluish color, about 150 feet 
high. The laud back of them rises to 300 and 400 feet, 
and, 3 miles in the interior, to 3,000 and 5,000 feet. The 
deep valley of Areual is 6 miles to the northward of these 
points ; on the north side of its end near the sea is a sand- 
hill and at its entrance is a sand-beach. 

From the cove of Maytencillo the coast is a continuous 
line for 33 miles, trending K. 7° W. to the mouth of the 
Limari river, which appears large from seaward, but is 
inaccessible ; the coast near it is rocky and steep. About 
2 miles X. of it is a low, rocky poiut, with a small beach, 
where boats might land, though there is a heavy surf. The 
land rises suddenly, forming a chain of mountains 1,000 feet 
high, which are parallel to the coast to within 2 or 3 miles 
of the river ; their summits to the northward are wooded. 

The X. j)oint of the entrance to the Limari river is low 
and rocky ; the southern point, on which a patch of white 
sand will be distinctly seen, has a rapid descent. The river 
is about \ mile wide at the mouth, but the sea always breaks 
with violence. In the interior it turns slightly to the NB. 
and then returns to E. in a deep gorge of the mountains. 

There is a small bay about 14 miles to the N. of Limari. 
In its northern part is a sand-beach, but it is always 
beaten by the surf. The coast to the northward of the bay is 
rocky, and about 8 or 9 miles farther there is a small peninsula 
of rocks, in the center of which there is a high pointed rock. 
To the southward of the promontory a deep cove opens 
with a sand beach at its head, but the entrance is so full of 
sunken rocks and islets that it cannot be entered by even 
the smallest vessels. During fine weather, however, boats 
can enter and laud in the cove. The outside breaker is 
not more than 400 yards from the shore ; in calm weather 
the swell sets directly upon it. This cove is called Tortoral 
de la Lengua de Yaca. 
ae La Lengua de Yaca is a low, rocky point 8 miles to the 
north, which gradually rises to a round, flat hill 1,000 feet 
high, situated about 1 mile to the southward of the point; 
about 200 yards from it are some rocks just awash, and at 
400 yards there are but 5 feet of water. 
Bay ofTongoy. From point Lengua de Yaca the coast turns suddenly to 



Tortoral cove. 



Len g u 
Vaca. 



ANCHORAGE OF TAN QUE . 

S. 30° E. and forms the bay of Tongoy 5 it is steep and 
rocky for 2 miles from the point; there are 14 fathoms about 
J mile from the coast. About 3 miles from the point is a 
long sand-tongue which extends the whole length of the 
bay to the peninsula of Tongoy. The southern part of the 
beach is called Play a de Tan que, and the eastern part 
Playa de Tongoy. 

Off the western extremity of the beach, near Tanque, is T *°^ raee of 
an anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms, about J mile from the coast; 
the bottom is muddy sand, soft in some and hard in other 
places. With southerly winds it is quite smooth and boats 
can land without difficulty, but the north winds throw a 
heavy sea in the bay. This anchorage was formerly visited 
by American and other whalers. The village called Rincon 
de Tanque consists of about a dozen ranchos ; only brackish 
water can be obtained here, but about 2J miles X. 83° E. 
there is good water some distance from the beach. As 
landing is generally difficult, it is hard to water. 

There is anchorage all along the bay from Tanque to 
Tongoy, about 2 miles from the coast, in from 7 to 10 
fathoms, sandy bottom. 

There is also a good anchorage off the village of Tongoy, Portof Ton &°y' 
which is sheltered from N. winds by the SW. point of the 
peninsula, in 4 fathoms of water, bottom sand, covering 
clay ; the Lengua bearing WN W. ; the smallest vessel must 
not anchor in a less depth, as the sea breaks violently in 
shoaler water during fresh X. winds. Large vessels can 
also find some shelter from N. to NW. winds. 

With a strong SW. breeze the sea is too heavy for any 
vessel to remain at the anchorage to the southward of the 
peninsula, but on its northern part there is a small bay 
completely sheltered from S. winds. In the southern corner 
of this bay is a small cove, in which boats can enter during 
calm weather; this inlet extends in about 1 mile, and at its 
head is some fresh water which can be taken in boats. 

A rock, which is just awash at low tide, lies J mile south 
ot the large chimney on the hill ; there is a passage between 
it and the land ; it has been marked by an iron buoy sur- 
mounted by a wooden ball ; a lookout must be had for it, as 
it is in the route of boats going to the shore and in the 
position which at first appears to be the best anchorage. 



222 



FROM CONCEPCION TO COQUIMBO. 



Description. 



Tides. 



Mount 
quero. 



The village of Tongoy was, in 1856, composed of a few 
small houses built on a high point, on the south side of the 
peninsula ; it is much larger at present. The Mexican and 
South American Company have a foundery and large store- 
houses of mineral ores at this place ; when the furnaces are 
in operation they will be seen from seaward during the 
night. The company have made an embankment of the 
scoria of copper, and also a mole, along which the small 
coasters load and discharge ; the vessels of the company 
are loaded and discharged by lighters. A screw-steamer, 
which belongs to them, runs from Tongoy to Guyacan, and 
is used as a tug. The company ships ores from here to 
Guyacan, the United States, England, and Hamburg. 
There are some stores, and the communication with Guyacan 
is easy. It is, during the summer, frequented for bathing. 

The ballast is thrown on the east beach of the bay. There 
is a watering-place to the southward of the village. 

It is high water, full and change, at port Tongoy, at 9 h 
10 m $ springs rise 5 feet. 

Mount Huanaquero is about 2 miles NE. of the peninsula 
of Tongoy; it has three peaks, and is 1,850 feet high. The 
coast to the westward of this mountain is rugged and rocky, 
and has no shelter except for boats. There is a deep bay to 
the northward which is sheltered from the S. and W. winds, 
but open to the northward. Between it and la Herradura 
de Coquimbo, 13 miles, there are no anchorages. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FROM COQUEtfBO TO THE FRONTIER OF BOLIVIA. 
Variation from 14° 13' to 12° 30' easterly, in 1876 ; increasing annually about 1' 30". 

Port Guyacan is a small, land locked harbor, separated c ^ ^ d u u y r a a 
from the bay of Coquimbo by an isthmus of about 1 mile in <*e coquimbo. 
width ; it is circular, and has an area of 3J square miles ; its 
entrance, between the points Herradura and Miedo, is f mile 
in width. With a fair wind any vessel can enter, keeping 
close to the S. coast to avoid a rock about 50 yards off point 
Miedo ; when inside, the anchorage can be chosen in from 3J 
to 20 fathoms, bottom sand and shell, covering a tenacious 
clay. Should it be desirable to anchor on the side of the K "™^y * rock - 
town of Guyacan, attention must be given toKnowsley rock, 
named after a vessel which touched on it, which has three 
heads, with 3.7 feet of water over it and 5 fathoms alongside 
of it at low- water spring tides. It lies on the north shore 
of the bay in line with point Miedo and the next point inside 
it; is S. 71° W. from Oerro Allegre, a round, remarkable 
hill situated in the NE. corner of the port, and is 163 yards 
from the nearest land, and 433 yards from the wharf be- 
longing to the smelting- works. It is marked by a red buoy 
with a cage, moored in 6 fathoms, 40 or 50 feet from its 
eastern side ; the two easternmost chimneys of the smelting- 
works in line will lead to the southward of it. The N. coast 
must not be approached closer than 273 yards until Cerro 
Allegre bears ^E. 

Off the ancient Herradura, in the SW. corner of the bay, 
is a perfectly-sheltered spot, in which repairs of all kinds 
can be undertaken with security ; there are from 2J to 3 
fathoms. H. M. S. Beagle made her repairs in this port, re- 
maining several weeks with her crew in camp on the beach. 

This land-locked bay would be of still more importance 
were it farther from the bay of Coquimbo, which is larger but 
less sheltered ; the 3T. winds, however, which, in winter, raise 
considerable sea in the latter bay, manage to send an uncom- 
fortable swell into port Guyacan. A disadvantage is that 



224 FROM COQTJIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

sailing-vessels sometimes find difficulty in leaving the. port 
on account of the narrow entrance, the wind, together with 
the heavy swell, driving them back into the bay. The fa- 
vorable wind lasts only a few hours during the morning, and 
is then generally light and uncertain. 

Ballast is thrown on the banks near the river on the east 
side and to the southward of the village. There are several 
wharves, but they are in bad condition. 

Description. ^he Mexican and South American Company established 

a large furnace for smelting copper-ores at Herradura in 1848, 
and at the same time founded a town. A bridge of boats was 
built to Whale rocks, and a mole constructed at which ves- 
sels of 300 tons could load and discharge. At present the 
works at Herradura are deserted, everything having been 
taken to Guyacan, which is the center of all the factories of 
the new company, who possess 35 s melting-furnaces, whose 
draught is furnished by three large chimneys ; around the 
works are the houses of 400 workmen. To the southward 
is the small town, with about 1,000 inhabitants. The com- 
pany owns a steamer, which is often used for towing vessels 
in or out ; large vessels are discharged by means of lighters. 
The furnaces are always in operation, and they give so much 
light that the vessels of the company can enter during the 
night. As Guyacan is not a port of entry, vessels before 
going there to load are obliged to obtain a permit at Oo- 
quimbo. The foreign commerce consists in the importation 
of English coal, brick, clay, iron, &c, and the exports are 
copper-bars, copper regulus, silver and copper ores, to the 
United States, England, and Hamburg; banking is done by 
the company by drafts on England. The water is brackish; 
but freshwater is brought regularly from Coquimbo ; the 
company has established a distillery, with a reservoir having 
a capacity of 1,188,810 gallons. There is a large quantity of 
coal at the works. 

coast. From point Miedo the coast runs K. 5° W. for 1J miles. 

The depth near it is about 16 fathoms, stone and gravel 
bottom; at this distance from point Miedo is the small 
precipitous point Finaja, which is clean ; to the eastward of 
it is a small indentation. From the point the coast runs 
about X. 45° E., and ends in point Tortuga; this stretch of 



POINT TORTUGA 



K slo 



Point Tortuga. 



the coast is full of reefs and rocks at the water level, and is 
therefore inaccessible. 

Lis Pdjaros Nifios are small rocky islets, surrounded by PajaroBNmo* 
reefs, to the NYV. of point Tortuga; they form two princi- 
pal groups ; the outside one is about 1J miles from the shore, 
N. 47° W. from the light-house ; it is about 130 feet long 
and 65 wide. About j| mile S. 15° E. of it is a large 
islet, from which a reef of rocks makes out. There is a safe 
passage £ mile wide between the two groups, and another 
between the large islet and the shore ; the depth in these is 
16 fathoms. Vessels of all sizes can pass through with the 
fresh SSE. or SW. winds, which generally prevail, but it 
should not be attempted with light winds, as the current is 
always strong, and the anchor would have to be dropped on 
a bottom of rock mixed with sand and shell. 

Point Tortuga, high and steep, especially at its northern 
extremity, forms the southern boundary of the entrance to 
Coquimbo, and is the northern termination of the peninsula, 
4G0 feet high, which separates this bay from that of Guya- 
can. It has three points ; the middle one, near the light- 
house, is point Tortuga. 

A fixed white light varied by flashes of 5 s duration every 15 
seconds, the eclipse lasting 10 s , is shown from a square fi 3 20' 40" w. 
wooden tower, painted white, with the cupola green, and 
attached to the keeper's dwelling, 200 yards within the ex- 
tremity of Tortuga point 5 the building is 25 feet high, and 
the light, elevated 108 feet above the sea, is visible 12 miles. 
This light is not visible between the bearings S. 78° W. and 
N. 75° E. by the south, the land intervening. Coming from 
the southward the lights from the works in Herradura bay 
will probably be first seen. It has for some time been pro- 
posed by the Chilian government to remove this light to 
the outermost islet of the Pajaros Ninos. 

Ships approaching Guyacau or Coquimbo bay are sig- 
naled from Flag-staff or from Signal hill, there being on 
each a staff and yard. 

Pelicanos rock is around point Tortuga, an isolated rock 
2G feet high and 48 yards from the shore; a boat's length 
from it there are 4 J fathoms. 

From 40 to 50 yards X. 40° E. from the highest part of 
Pelicanos rock is a sunken pinnacle rock with 9 feet on it 
15 



Light : Lat. 29° 
' 50" S.; long. 



Signal: 



Pelicanos rock. 



Dors 
rock. 



et shire 



226 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

at low-water spring tides, with deep water immediately out- 
side of it. Vessels going to the anchorage off Coquimbo, 
on rounding or passing Pelicanos rock, should not approach 
it inside of 200 yards, or in thick weather not inside of 15 
fathoms, but stand to the eastward toward La Serena until 
the conspicuous church spire, near the town of Coquimbo, 
comes in line with the extreme of Observation point, bear- 
ing S. 18° W., when stand in for the anchorage. 

Navigating lieutenant A. W. Miller, R. K, of H. B. M. S. 
Columbine, after sounding for this rock without success, 
succeeded in finding it by sweeping with a dredge. He 
states that several ships had struck on an unknown rock, 
their masters supposing that they were more than 200 yards 
from Pelicanos rock. In March, 1867, the ship Dorsetshire, 
of 700 tons, struck on it, and was beached to save her from 
sinking. Its vicinity has been sounded with care and no 
other dangers discovered. On the point is a platform with 
two guns and a house serving as a guard-house, but these 
cannot be readily distinguished. It was reported that the 
vessels Chelydra and New Granada touched on a pinnacle 
rock, situated on a line drawn from Pelicanos to the town 
of Serena. Captain Harvey, R. N., commanding H. B. M. S. 
Havannab, searched for it without success, but while sound- 
ing he found a patch of 6 fathoms, on which the lead would 
not rest; with 9 and 10 fathoms around it and 12 between it 
and the shore ; its position is 250 yards N. 26° E. of Peli- 
canos rock. After Captain Harvey and Admirals Cloue 
and de Lapelin, the vessels of the Chilian squadron searched 
unsuccessfully for the Chelydra rock, and concluded that it 
did not exist. It can be assumed, therefore, that these ves- 
sels, passing near Pelicanos in thick weather, touched on 
Dorsetshire rock. 

The sea around Pelicanos and along this coast is fre- 
quently covered with a greasy foam of bad odor, which 
from a distance has the appearance of breakers. 
Bay of Co The bay of Coquimbo, which opens to the southward of 
Pelicanos rock, is situated to the northward of the penin- 
sula which forms the bay of Guyacan. It is on the limit of 
the tropical calms and the heavy gales of the higher lati- 
tudes ; vessels can enter at any time during the day. 

Between point Tortuga and the Rio Coquimbo it is very 



BAY OF COQUIMBO. 227 

extended, its area being 30 square miles, but it is open to 
the northward ; there are from 5 to 16 fathoms of water, 
with good holding- ground of mud and clay at the anchor- 
age. The maximum depth on a Hue drawn from the Bio 
Coquimbo to point Tortuga is 20 fathoms. The usual an- 
chorage for strangers is in 8 fathoms, with the last point 
north of the west coast bearing N. 36° W., the church of 
Serena X. 66° E., and the houses near the landing-place S. 
65° W. The best anchorage is in the SW. angle of the bay 
in 6 fathoms and excellent bottom ; but the swell generally 
sets in so heavily as to cause a surf, which renders landing, 
in all excepting a few sheltered places, very difficult. 

The charts of the bay are good ; vessels can be taken in 
easily by sounding rapidly when approaching the E. coast 
or the head of the bay, as the soundings decrease gradually 
to a low sandy beach. 

Coquimbo is the principal commercial port of northern Description: 
Chile; formerly a great disadvantage was its want of fresh 
water, which could not be procured without difficulty, as it 
had to be brought from a lagoon on the E. shore of the bay ; 
to remedy this a reservoir of a capacity of about 6,000,000 
of gallons was constructed 2 miles SE. of the city, to which 
water is taken through pipes; the reservoir being supplied 
from the condensation of sea-water. This work was fin- 
ished in 1865, since which time Coquimbo has been w T ell 
supplied with water at a reasonable price. Wood is scarce 
and distant from the anchorage. Plenty of fish can be 
caught with the seine, but the few fresh provisions procura- 
ble are expensive. The town has about 5,000 inhabitants ; 
there is one government, with several private wharves. A 
large store-house has been constructed on one of the moles, 
near the government wharf. The most convenient wharf is 
the one just to the westward of which is a foundery and a 
quay for loading and discharging the copper-ores ; the 
mountains in the vicinity are very rich in ores. 

There are three founderies and one factory of hydraulic 
lime at Coquimbo. A railroad 50 miles in length, with 
branches to Guyacan and Panucillo, connects it with Serena 
and Ovalle. Ballast is thrown on the west coast of the 
bay to the northward of the river. The mail steamers 
touch here twice a week and the coasting steamer three 



Directions. 



228 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

times ; the Mexican and South American company own a 
tug, which can be hired for towing. 

The bays of Guyacan and Coquimbo are subject to a 
curious phenomenon. On the 24th of April, 1858, at 7.30 a. 
m., a sharp shock of earthquake was felt, which was im- 
mediately followed at Guyacan by a sudden rising of the 
sea of 15 feet. The sea in this port continued to rise and 
fall for 1J hours at intervals of from 3 to 5 minutes, each 
flood beiug a little lower than the preceding. It was four 
days before full moon, and the rise took place 1J hours be- 
fore high water. Although the sea rose 15 feet, the water 
only reached 9 feet above the usual high-water mark. The 
bay of Coquimbo was agitated in the same manner ; the 
sea rose suddenly, covered the quays, and filled the base- 
ments of the houses. On one occasion a vessel of 1,400 
tons, which was anchored iu 4J fathoms, was left nearly 
dry on the first receding of the wave; no serious damage, 
however, was done on either occasion to vessels lying in 
the port. 

Vessels bound to Coquimbo should try to make the laud 
at Lengua de Vaca, which is very salient and sloping toward 
the sea, then, steering for point Tortnga, mount Huana- 
quero will be seen with its three gorges of a dark color. 
From there the chain continues to a round isolated hill 
1,000 feet high, whose spurs form the port of Guyacan. 
This is the Pan de Azucar. All the coast to point Her- 
radura is very dark, but from thence the land is whitish 
and can be easily recognized. The views will aid in this, as 
also the Signal hill, 478 feet high, which overlooks the 
peninsula of Tortuga, and can be seen from seaward. The two 
islands, Pajaros Ninos, can be seen a long distance; when 
they are made, with a steady SE. or SW. wind one of the 
channels through them can be taken, but with a light or 
variable wind it is best to pass 200 yards from point Tor- 
tuga and then steer S. 64° E. until a house on the isthmus 
is just open of the cliffs under Signal hill, from whence the 
anchorage can be chosen. 

Vessels can easily enter during the night by the light 
given by the furnaces. In coming from the southward the 
coast must be kept at a distance of 3 miles until the lights 
of the town of Serena bear S. 87° E.; then steer on this 



LA SERENA. 229 

bearing, which will clear Pajaros Nihos, and when the fur- 
naces open from Pelicanos rock, the bay can be entered and 
anchorage taken in 8J fathoms. 

When running in with a northerly wind, the Pajaros 
Xiiios mast not be approached. 

Toward evening it is generally calm near point Tortnga, 
but the swell will drift a vessel in as there is no current, or 
the boats can be used to tow in. Toward 5 or G p. m., how- 
ever, the cobre, or land-wind, sets in from the XE. or X. In 
all cases when the wind is dying out near point Tortuga it 
can be assumed that the land wind will be strong enough 
to carry a vessel in. 

In approaching this port a vessel must be careful not to 
be carried to the northward, as the current and the breeze 
are almost always from the south ; for that reason it is 
recommended to keep close to the Pajaros. 

The winds at Coquimbo are generally from the southward 
and moderate; they are off shore during the greater portion 
of the year, only interrupted for short intervals in winter 
by NW. gales. The inhabitants say that the northers are 
never very heavy at this place, but in winter it is best al- 
ways to be prudent. 

It is high water, full and change, at Coquimbo at 9 l1 15 m ; Tides - 
rise 5 feet. 

La Serena, the capital of the province of Coquimbo, of La Serena - 
which Coquimbo is the port, founded in 1544, by Francisco 
de Aguirre, lieutenant of Valdivia, is situated on the NE. 
shore of the bay ; the road and railway connecting the two 
run along the beach. 

The houses are mostly built of sun-dried brick, and have 
but one story on account of the earthquakes. The town and 
its gardens are provided with water by canals from the river 
Coquimbo, which is on the X". shore ; it has several churches 
and about 12,300 inhabitants. It was destroyed by the earth- 
quake of 1730. 

The landing at Serena can only be accomplished with 
balsas, on account of the heavy surf; but as Coquimbo is 
but 6 or 7 miles distant, with ev^ry facility for transporta- 
tion, there are not even balsas to be fouud at Serena. 

The universally good temperature, the agreeable climate, 
and the clear atmosphere have given the name of Serena to 



230 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

this town. The country, however, often wants rain ; in June, 
1850, it had not rained a drop for 15 months. In order to 
give an idea of the value of a shower, the produce caused by 
one night's rain iu the small valley of Huasco, a port farther 
N., was estimated at $1,180,000 for that district only. This 
result is really miraculous ; before the rain all the valley was 
as an uucultivated sand desert; a week or ten days after- 
ward the ground was covered with verdure and flowers. 
It must be mentioned that the cloudy weather on this 
coast, to the river Guayaquil, is generally during the winter. 
The fogs are frequent and sometimes very dense. 

coast. From the southern extremity of the town of Ooquimbo 

the coast forms a semicircle to Serena and the Rio Coquimbo ; 
from there it runs nearly K. to point Teatinos. 

Point Teatinos. Point Teatinos is the northern extremity of the bay of 
Coquimbo ; it is bold and rugged; the land back of it rises 
gradually, as it recedes from the coast, to mount Cobre, 
6,400 feet high. From Teatinos the coast runs to the north, 
then to the west, and is terminated by point Poroto, 3£ 
miles from Teatinos. 

About 4£ miles N. of Poroto is port Arrayan or Juan 
Soldado; it is simply an indentation, completely open to the 
northward, situated behind a rocky point, in which a boat 
hardly finds shelter from S. winds. 

Mount uan A little to the northward of mount Cobre is another of 
the same chain, called Juan Soldado, 3,900 feet high ; its 
northern slope is steep. At its foot is the small bay of 
Osorno, about J mile long, and without shelter. About \ 
mile to the northward of the bay is the small village Yerba 
Buena, which consists of only a few houses. 

Tiigo island. The small island Tilgo is a little to the northward of 
Yerba Buena, and is separated from the land by a channel 
200 yards wide, only practicable for boats. This island has 
the appearance of an advanced point. There is a large 
white rock on its western extremity. 

LosPajaros. The two islets Los Pajaros, 100 to 150 feet high, are sepa- 
rated by a channel 2 miles wide, and lie about 12 miles from 
the coast. The northern orfe is much smaller than the other, 
and, as far as ascertained, there are no dangers between 



TOTORALILLO BAY. 231 

them ; but a reef, which sometimes breaks, extends con- 
siderably to the southward of the southernmost islet. 

Tutoralillo is a small bay about 3 miles N. of the island Totorawio bay 
Tilgo, opening to the NW. ; there are three small islands 
off its SW. point. The best entrance for small vessels 
coming from the southward is a channel about 100 yards 
wide, with 8 to 12 fathoms, which separates the island from 
the south point ; the south swell enters through this channel. 

The rock which is above water near the point of the con- 
tinent must not be approached closer than 100 yards, as 
there is a sunken rock at about that distance to the west- 
ward of it, on which it is proposed to place a buoy. The 
channel between the island is closed by breakers. 

Vessels can anchor \ mile from any point of the beach 
in 6 to 8 fathoms, bottom of fine sand and shell. It is 
difficult to laud at any other place than the mole; the 
most convenient place is on the rocks near the entrance, 
but nothing can be shipped from there ; the best place for 
that purpose is the E. extremity of the beach. The land 
around cape Ohoros projects enough to the westward to 
lead to the conclusion that N. winds could not produce 
much sea at the anchorage, but stormy winds from that 
direction and from the southward interrupt all loading and 
discharging. 

Fresh water can be obtaiued from wells near the lauding- Description. 
place. There are two moles, but one in very bad condition; 
the government mole was destroyed by the sea. Lighters 
and peons can be hired. Ballast is thrown in two places, 
on the south shore between the two moles, or on the west 
shore between the mole belonging to the works Muiioz and 
the south point of the small creek Temblador. 

The village of Totoralillo, with 60 to 80 inhabitants, 
depends principally on the Mexican and South American 
company, which has a large depot of mineral ores and some 
small founderies. The ores are shipped for Guyacan, Oal- 
defa, the United States, England, and Hamburg. A small 
steamer which belongs to the company goes to Guyacan 
from time to time. It is the port of the mines of Higueira, 
13 miles to the eastward. There are about 40 mines at this 
place; it is also the port of El Barco, which has 5 mines. 
La Higueira is the mining center Of the province. 



232 FEOM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

creek of Tem- Teinblador is a small cove NE. of Totoralillo; it is more 

blador. " 

difficult to laud in than on the other shore, and is less 
sheltered. 
chungunga i 8 i- Chungunga island is about 4^ miles to the northward of 
Totoralillo, and about 1 mile from the coast. It is a good 
landmark for the small cove of the same name. Off it is a 
point of rocks, and a little in the interior a remarkable 
saddle with a round hillock in the center; on coming from 
the southward it seems to be the extremity of a mountain- 
chain which runs to the east of Totoralillo, and attains an 
elevation of 2,000 to 3,000 feet. A little to the northward 
of the island Ohungunga is a large patch of white sand, 
which can be distinctly seen from the west ; it is at the 
southern extremity of the beach of Ohoros ; on it there is 
always a heavy surf. 

Cape Choros and point Mar Brava, its NW. extremity, 
form a small cove, whose shore is strewn with rocks and 
chains of reefs. It is not very deep, having from 2 to 3 
fathoms of water, bottom of line sand. It is sheltered from 
ST. winds by the island Gaviota, one of the Ghoros islands, 
but it is entirely open to the southward. 
choros islands. The three Choros islands are off cape Ghoros; the inside 
one, Gaviota, is low, and so close to point Mar Brava that 
only boats can pass through the channel, which is open to 
S. and NW. In its narrowest part, 400 yards, is a group of 
rocks and reefs, on which the sea generally breaks ; in its 
southern portion there are also some reefs, which extend in 
the direction of cape Choros ; there are also three danger- 
ous rocks, which obstruct the passage. 

The best anchorage seems to be N. of the island Gaviota, 
in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom ; but there is always some sea, 
and the swell often interrupts communication with the 
shore. 

Water can only be found 12 miles in the interior, and is 
brackish ; there is no wood. 

The passage between Gaviota and the other two islands 
is clear ; the southernmost island, called las Damas, is the 
largest, 2 miles long, but it does not protect the anchorage . 
Its summit is very rugged, and its SW. extremity resembles 
a castle. Off the south point is a small pyramid, and the 
breakers extend J mile from the laud. The channel between 



CAPE CARRISAL. 



233 



Toro reef. 



the two outside islands is also clean ; but about J mile west 

of the northern island is a rock, which is just awash. It is Tides. 

high water, full and change, at 9 h 20 m ; rise 5 feet. 

Toro reef is 5 miles SSE. of las Darnas; it is dangerous, 
hardly showing above water. 

Cape Carrisal is low and rocky, nearly 7 miles NW. by CapeCanisaL 
N. of cape Choros, and is surmounted by a remarkable 
round hill. The intermediate coast is bad 5 there are from 
6 to 12 fathoms at a distance of from 200 to 800 yards. 

Apolillado cove opens to the southward of cape Carrisal; Apoiniaaoccm 
small vessels can find shelter in it ; it is 5 miles to the north- 
ward of Gaviota, extends into the land about 500 yards, and 
is 1,200 yards wide X. and S. It is open to the SW. and 
^1W.; lauding in it is impossible and the anchorage unten- 
able as soon as the winds blow from those directions. There 
are two small islands off the south point of the cove, but 
they do not stop the wind or sea. 

Vessels which come to these islands for guano prefer to 
anchor off them rather than enter the cove. 

San Jose, the most important place of the neighborhood, 
is at least 12 miles from the sea; it has 1,000 inhabitants, 
and is in the center of the copper-mines, whose products 
are exported from the ports of Chaneral and Totoralillo. 

Carrisal bay is NXE. of cape Carrisal, but it cannot be camsaibay, 
used by vessels, as heavy breakers commence J mile from 
the shore. A rocky point, surrounded by rocks and break- 
ers, forms the X. coast of the bay. There is a landing-place 
near the SE. angle, where the rocky coast joins the beach, 
but during bad weather the sea breaks there also. There is 
a rock iu the center of the bay. 

The bay of Gaviota opens to the eastward of the X. point chauerai bay 
of the bay of Carrisal ; vessels can anchor in it, in an emer- 
gency, near the point, in 11 fathoms, rocky bottom. There 
is a heavy surf and the shore is inaccessible. 

On the other side of the point forming the northern limit 
of Gaviota bay is the bay of Logag or port Chaneral, which 
is well sheltered from X. and S. winds ; but the SW. swell, 
which is always heavy, makes landing difficult ; the best 
place to land is in a small creek to the southward, near the 
shore. There is another landing-place on the N. side of the 
bay, but it becomes bad with the least swell ; it is called 



234 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

English cove, and vessels are said to have loaded in it. The 
shore of the port is always beaten by the surf, which pre- 
vents landing, excepting during fine weather. The N. point 
of the bay is bordered by a reef which extends out at least 
J mile. 

When forced to anchor here it is best to do so in 12 fath- 
oms J mile S. by E. from the small islands at the head of 
the bay. This position is J mile from the land. 

The land around Ohaueral bay is low ; chains of small 
hills show some elevated points, their summits are rough 
and broken, and the soil sandy and barren. Several miles 
in the interior is a chain of high hills, and between them 
and the coast are several smaller hills rising from the low 
land. The village of Ohaueral is about 3 miles from the 
port. It is composed of about 20 houses ; there are some 
near the coast ; there is no fresh water within a radius of 
10 miles. 

cihaserai isiaud. Chaiieral island is about 4 miles W. of the bay of Ohau- 
eral ; it is flat, excepting its southern extremity, near which 
there is a remarkable mound surmounted by a round hillock. 
There are some rocks about J mile off the south point of the 
island. The sea breaks on another rock the same distance 
from the NW. point. On the N. side of the island is a cove 
in which boats can land with S. winds ; off it there is an 
anchorage, but iu very deep water. An American schooner, 
which was surprised by a northerly gale, was lost at this 
anchorage. 

€a P e Leoues. Cape Leones is about 4 miles N. 18° W. from the west 
point of Ohaueral bay. English cove is j ust to the eastward 
of this cape ; some rocks and reefs make out i mile from it. 

€apevasciman. From cape Leones the coast trends N. 4° W. 4J miles to 
point Pajaros, and from there N. 14° E. 4 miles to cape 
Vascuiian. About 400 yards off this cape is a small rocky 
islet. The ground rises gradually from the coast, and forms 
a chain of low hills £ mile and a higher chain 3 miles in the 
interior. 

The Mcaraguan steamer Delfina was said to have been 
wrecked on a rock about 2 miles W. of cape Vascuiian ; an 
unsuccessful search was made by captain Montt for this dan- 
ger. He found no danger of any kind for 3 miles off shore 
between Vascuiian cape and Pajaros point. He says that 
the most prominent danger of the coast is a rock off cape 



SARCO BAY. 235 

Vascunan which projects about 200 yards into the sea, with 
a depth of 10 fathoms between it and the coast, with from 
7 to 8 fathoms over it. The coast between cape Vascunan 
and Pajaros point is sufficiently clear for a ship to approach 
it within 220 yards. 

The Delfina foundered 546 yards south of cape Vascunan 
and 55 yards from the shore. 

From cape Vascunan the coast trends X. G0° E. and forms Sam* bay. 
a small bay, called Sarco, open to northward, but well shel- 
tered from S. winds. There is an anchorage in from 7 to 12 
fathoms about J mile from the shore, but landing is difficult. 

Deep Gully bay to the NE. of Sarco bay offers some shel bay, cep (QuebradI 
ter against S. winds. A deep gorge extends into the inte- 
rior from the SE. angle of the bay. There is a sand-beach 
in this indentation, and J mile from it is an anchorage in 
from 7 to 12 fathoms; landing on the beach is difficult; near 
it are some huts. The high land to the northward of the 
bay extends to the coast ; the slopes of the hills are covered 
with yellow sand ; the summits are rocks and the coast has 
a miserable and barren appearance. 

Peiia Blanca cove is about 4 miles from Deep Gully bay ; Pena Bianca 
at the foot of a high chain of hills is a rocky point at whose °° 
extremity there is a black sharp peak. 

About 2 miles XE. of this is the cove of Pena Blanca. 
Coming from the westward it appears like a small sandy 
bay ; with exception of a few huts there is little to be seen 
until close iu. This bay is easily confounded with that of 
Sarco, though it cannot readily be mistaken if point Al- 
cade, 8 miles N. 7° E. of Peiia Blanca, is made. It is best 
to moor in 10 fathoms with the port-anchor to the south- 
ward, and the starboard to the westward, and a stern anchor 
to the eastward, as the swell comes mostly from the west- 
ward. 

There are two small moles at Peiia Blanca belonging to 
some coal-yaids. The landing-place is off the western coal- 
yard in a small inlet. Water can be procured, but it is 
scarce and bad. 

■All the SE. coast of the bay is foul and full of sea-weed ; 
there are two or three rocks above water close to the land. 

To the north of Peiia Blanca the coast runs X". 15° E., Coa8t - 
rocky for 6J miles, when it turns K. 75° W. to point Al- 



236 



FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 



cade, forming a deep bay, in whose XE. corner is a small 
beach, called Tontado. 

Point Aicade. Point Alcade is a rocky promontory which forms the ex- 
tremity on the sea-coast of a spur of the coast chain. Some 
small detached rocks lie off it, but close to the shore ; it rises 
toward the interior and small masses of rock show above 
the sand. One of them, higher than the other, has a 
pointed summit, which can be seen distinctly from the south- 
ward. A little back of this summit the ground rises sud- 
denly and connects with the high chain. 

Point Huasco. Point Huasco, 6J mile from point Alcade, is low and 
abrupt. There are several small islets between it and port 
Huasco, of which it is the SW. extremity. The only one 
of these, of any size, is so close to the continent that from 
seaward it looks like part of it $ it can be distinctly seen 
coming from the southward, but from the northward it is 
confounded with the rocks back of it. To the SW. of this 
islet are several other small rocky islets. 

Port Huasco. To the eastward of point Huasco is the outer roadstead 
of port Huasco ; the anchorage is not good, the water being 
very deep and the bottom mostly rock. 

A little inland of point Huasco is a small low chain of 
hills, forming four abrupt peaks which can be seen dis- 
tinctly from the south and west. Back of these hills the 
ground falls again for a short distance and then rises sud- 
denly to the high chain which runs east and west, directly 
to the southward of the anchorage. The last point of this 
chain forms three round summits, the eastern one having 
an elevation of 1,900 feet. It is a v little higher and the 
middle one a little lower than the western ; they form part 
of the Oerro de Huasco. 

The port Huasco is to the eastward of a second interior 
point 2 miles EXE. of point Huasco ; it has two detached 
rocks to the NN W. The anchorage is in 5 J fathoms, sandy 
bottom, 600 yards to the westward of the channel separating 
the rocks. It is a very inconvenient anchorage and difficult 
to recognize. The steamers of the P. S. N. Company touch 
here, as it is the port of Ballenar, a considerable town in the 
interior. It has a custom-house, a few houses, and some 
smelting-works about 2J miles distant. The copper comes 
from the mines of Huasco and Asiento de Santa Rosa. 



PORT HUASCO. 



237 



On the nights when the steamer is expected a light is ex- ^ex- 
hibited from the jetty, which should be brought to bear S. 
30° E., and care taken not to confound it with the lights from 
the furnaces, which give a more red and uncertain light. 
These would lead a vessel too near the shore and on a rocky 
shoal off it. 

This port seems to be in a fair way to become prosperous. Description. 
The three principal fouuderies, with their three large chim- 
neys, are a good distinguishing mark. Fresh provisions 
are generally abundant. It was formerly hard to water 
ships, but this difficulty has been removed by an aqueduct, 
which brings the water from the mountains. 

The anchorage is completely open to the northward ; but 
it is said that northers never blow home here, and that they 
occur very seldom. 

About 3 miles NE. of the outer harbor is a chain of mount- 
ains 1,400 feet high, on whose western slope is a slender 
peak. It overlooks a valley in which a small water-course, 
the Kio Huasco, runs to the sea ; but this is only drinkable 
100 yards from its mouth, off which the sea breaks heavily. 
In the valley, but nearer to the port, is a narrow lagoon, or 
small brook, with brackish water. 

The surrounding country has a more barren aspect than 
any other part of the coast ; the soil is everywhere covered 
with small stones mixed with sand, from whichjagged masses 
of rocks emerge. At a short distance in the interior the 
rocky soil changes into fine yellow sand, which covers the 
bases and slopes of all the surrounding hills ; their summits 
are stony and without vegetation. In the low land there 
are some few shrubs between the stones, and after a rain, 
which seldom occurs, they present a fresher aspect than 
could be expected. The river valley then becomes green, 
and presents a striking contrast to the other country. 

It is high water, full and change, at Huasco at 8 11 30 m ; Tides. 
springs rise 5 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

Point Lobo is about 10 miles north of Huasco ; it is ab- Point Lobo 
rupt, with several small hillocks. To the southward of this 
point are several sand-beaches separated by points of rocks, 
but the sea breaks with such violence that not even boats 
can find any shelter. A little inshore of the point are two 
low hills, behind which the ground suddenly rises to a chain 
1,000 feet high. There are several small rocks in the bay 



238 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

to the northward of point Lobo, and about 6 miles from it 
is a reef, which Fitz-Boy describes as extending J mile from 
a low, rocky point ; the exterior rock of the reef is high and 
detached from the others. 
Herradura de About 11 miles N. of point Lobo is another rugged point. 

Cairisalbay. . , . , . _ L fc>» i r 

with several slender peaks, the highest being 3,050 feet. At 
J mile from it is the small bay Herradura de Oarrisal, which 
can hardly be seen unless close-to. Between the rugged 
point and that of Herradura, the western point of bay, the 
breakers extend \ mile from the shore. 

Off point Herradura is a group of low rocks, which appears, 
when coming from the southward, to be off the entrance of 
the bay ; but the entrance faces the NW., and is between 
this group and an island to the HE. of it ; there are no dan- 
gers more than 100 yards from either side. The bay runs 
in about f mile to the eastward of the islet; it is shel- 
tered from N. and S. winds, but with a strong N. wind the 
swell enters around the island. This bay is small for large 
vessels, and they cannot ride at single anchor in the interior 
part of the cove ; but there is plenty of room to moor J mile 
outside of the island in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom. 

The American vessel Nile, of 420 tons, was moored in this 
place during a norther, and was well sheltered. The land- 
ing is easier than at any other point from Coquimbo, but 
the want of water is a serious drawback. There is a small la- 
goon about 1 mile from this port, in the valley at the head of 
the harbor of Oarrisal, but its water is more than brackish ; 
the peons who load the ores use it, however. A deep valley 
which starts at the end of the cove and divides the chain of 
high mountains is an excellent landmark for this port. The 
part of the mountain south of the valley is highest near the 
coast. It can be seen distinctly from the north and south ; 
on it is a remarkable hillock. 
Port carmai About 1 mile NB. of Herradura is the small port of Car- 

Bajo. 

risal Bajo, well sheltered from S. winds. The anchorage is 
good, with sandy bottom ; a reef of rocks, which makes out 
from the north extremity of the point, at the entrance, and 
is terminated by an island, has the same effect as a break- 
water; the anchorage is in 5 fathoms, § mile W. of the N. 
point of the island; it has been marked by a buoy. 

It is proposed to build a lighthouse on the south point 
of the entrance of the port, with a light of the 4th order 



PORT CARK.ISAL BAJO. 



239 



Coast, 



Matamores. 



white, fixed, and flashing, and to be visible 1G miles. There 
are three wharves and one digue ; the ballast is thrown in 
a small cove, on the X. coast, near the W. extremity of the 
anchorage. This place is destined to become prosperous. 
In 1863 it had 1,800 inhabitants and three furnaces. The 
mines, which are 20 miles distant, and connected with the 
town by a tramway, employ 3,000 persons. As it is thought 
more convenient to send the ores from the mines to this 
place instead of to Huasco, it will probably soon be the 
principal port for their shipment. 

The coast to the northward of Carrisal is rugged and 
steep; rocks make out for 200 yards from nearly all the 
points. About 7 miles to the northward is an elevated 
point, surmounted by a hillock, with some ragged hillocks 
a little in the interior. To the northward of this point is a 
cove, in which small vessels can find shelter from S. wiuds; 
there is another similar 1 mile farther north. 

The elevated part of the coast is terminated by a high, 
rocky point, a little to the northward of the second cove : 
to the northward of it is the small port of Matamores, well 
sheltered from south winds, where loading is easy ; a vessel 
not drawing more than 9 to 12 feet can moor in the inner 
harbor, and will be well sheltered from N. winds, in from 3 
to 5 fathoms, but there is often a heavy swell. There is an 
anchorage farther out, under the point, in 8 to 10 fathoms, 
but the anchor must not be dropped in less than 8 fathoms, 
as the bottom inside that depth is rocky. This is a good 
anchorage for small vessels during the summer, but there is 
no fresh water. Four miles back of the low coast, near 
Matamores, is a chain of mountains 2,440 feet high ; a short 
distance inland are some rocky hills, of moderate height. 

About 2 miles farther to the N. is point Tortoral, and a 
little to the northward of it is a small, deep bay, situated 
at the end of the valley of Tortoral Bajo, which distin- 
guishes it from Tortoral cove, in latitude 30° 22' S. There 
is, probably, an anchorage, but Fitz-Eoy could not examine 
it, on account of a heavy surf. To the northward of this 
the low hills are not rocky, but are covered with yellow 
sand, except near their summits. 

About 6 miles 1ST. 14° E. of Tortoral Bajo is a remarkable phonal cove. 
rocky point, a little to seaward of which is a white detached 



Tortoral Bajo 
cove. 



240 



PAJONAL COVE. 



Point Cachos. 



Salado^bay. 



Middle bay. 



rock, and a little inside is a small rounded hill. The small 
cove of Pajonal is 1J miles NNE. from it. On coming from 
the southward it is easily recognized by the hill just men- 
tioned and by a small island off the K point of the cove, 
which has a hillock with a square summit in its center. A 
chain of hills, which is higher than any in the vicinity, lies 
directly on the N. coast of the cove. In the valley, about 1 
mile from the cove, is a chain of steep hills rising out of the 
low lands. This anchorage is better sheltered from S. winds 
than any other to the southward, excepting Herradura de 
Carrisal. There should not be much swell, as the K point, 
Cachos, and the island with a square summit project well to 
the westward. The S. swell is only felt in the entrance, and 
along the south coast the water is smooth and landing easy. 
There is a dangerous breaker about J mile K". 87° W. from 
the extreme southern point ; it can only be seen with a 
heavy swell. The best anchorage is nearly in the middle of 
the cove, near the S. coast, in 5 fathoms, bottom fine sand. 
The end of the cove is shoal. 

Mineral ores are sometimes shipped from here ; there is 
no drinking-water within 2 miles, and the nearest is bad. 

Point Cachos, which is nearly 4 miles N. of Pajonal, has 
an island and several rocks off it. Vessels can pass within 
J mile of this island and the one with a square summit, but 
there is no passage inside of them. 

At point Cachos the coast turns to the eastward, and 
forms the spacious bay of Sal ado, which contains several 
coves ; among them is the large cove of Chasco, which is 
seen immediately after rounding the point. From a dis- 
tance this cove appears inviting, but 1 mile from the head 
of the bay there are only 3 fathoms. Its shores are bordered 
by rocks, some above and some below water ; the latter are 
not marked by breakers, as they are well sheltered. A little 
NNE. of the point are two shoals, which are always uncov- 
ered. 

Middle bay is another indentation about 1 mile ENE. 
from these shoals. In its southern angle is a cove, which 
is well sheltered from S. winds, and has a good anchorage 
in 7 fathoms, but is open to the northward. With S. winds 
the water is very smooth, and the swell can only enter with 
ST. winds. At J mile from this cove is another small bay, 







I 1^ 



!! ! 



i 



IF"*" 



m 









I 



5 



jfei 



BAY OF COPIAPO. 241 

n which vessels can anchor, but it is not so well sheltered. 
There are no habitations in the bay of Salado, and no signs 
of fresh water in the valleys. 

The land back of Salado is low, but to the northward of Point Saiado. 
the northern bay it rises to a chain of sand-hills running to 
the eastward and terminating in point Salado, which is 
rocky aud precipitous ; off it is a group of islets and rocks, 
steep-to. The coast to the northward of the point is rocky 
and indented. Over a space of about 4 miles there are 
rocks near the shore, then there is an abrupt point, and in 
the interior a high mountain with a slender summit, show- 
ing a double peak to the southward. 

Immediately to the northward of this abrupt point is a Barranquilla de 
rocky bay, and alongside of the point a small cove. The Copiap6 bay * 
Beagle anchored here in 5 fathoms, being only 100 yards 
from the shore on either side. This bay does not seem of 
any importance, as it is open to the swell from the north- 
ward, though partially protected against the winds from 
that quarter. Some ores have been shipped from here, but 
the cove is top small to offer any security, and outside of it 
the depth increases too rapidly. Boats can land easily in 
the bay ; there is a cove at its head in which no vessel can 
anchor, but which has a good landing-place; the middle 
bay of Salado is in every way superior to Barranquilla. 
The nearest fresh water is in the river Copiapo, 12 miles to 
the northward. 

The coast from Barranquilla to point Dallas, 10 miles Point Dallas. 
MW., is rocky and irregalar ; there is no place in which 
small vessels can find shelter. Point Dallas is of black rock, 
with a hillock on its extremity ; it resembles an island when 
seen from the southward. The land rises back of it, forming 
a chain of low sand-hills with summits of rock. One mile 
west of point Dallas is a shoal awash. The channel between 
it and the point appears to be large enough for any vessel ; 
a reef runs out far enough from the point to cause, with a 
heavy sea, breakers J mile off shore, but J mile farther there 
are 11 fathoms. When the swell is not very heavy no break- 
ers can be seen off the point. 

Nearly 4 miles K 14° W. from point Dallas are some de- port of Co P ia P 6 
t ached reefs, inside of which, in the bay, is the port of Co- 
piapo ; the roadstead is very bad, the swell rolls in heavily, 
16 c 



242 



FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 



and landing is more difficult than in any of the ports to the 
southward. The position of the port can be easily recognized 
from the Morro, a hill 10 miles to the northward, 850 feet high r 
and visible 30 to 35 miles in clear weather. It is remarkable 
from being nearly flat at the summit and having two paps 
at its extremity ; the eastern slope is very rugged. To the 
northward is the extremity of another chain of mountains. 
To the SW. of the Morro is another hill, whose western side 
is steep, and which probably forms a part of the same chain. 
In coming from the southward with clear weather, these hills 
will be seen before the land in the vicinity of the port. This 
port, which was called bad by Fitz Eoy, has been abandoned. 
The enormous increase of the value of the silver mines of 
Copiapo, a city in the interior, and the consequent com- 
merce demanded more facilities, which were happily found 
as near the mines as the old port. It is only astonish- 
ing that this port was used so long when Caldera and 
Yngles were so near. The principal dangers to be avoided 
when entering the port of Copiapo are the shoals of 
Oaja Grande and Oaja Chica. Their vicinity is foul, and 
between them and point Dallas are several dangerous rocky 
spots. 

caja Grande. Caja Grande is the northern and outside reef off point 
Dallas. It is a submerged bed of rocks extending f of a 
mile NNE. and SSW., and is J mile in breadth. Its position 
is apparent, as the sea breaks over it heavily at all times, 
whether there is any swell in the bay or not. In 1843, 
the captain of la Janequeo reported a rock J mile N. 32° 
W. of Oaja Grande, 11 feet in circumference, with 8£ feet 
over it at low water ; around it are from 13 to 18 fathoms \ 
the sea breaks over it at low water, and forms eddies at 
high water. 

caja chica. Oaja Ohica is 2J miles NW. of point Dallas. It is a small 

rocky shoal, with a large pointed rock in the center, which 
is always uncovered. It is separated from Oaja Grande by 
a passage 1 mile wide, which seems much less, however, on 
account of the breakers of Anacachi and others, which some- 
times extend in this channel from the side of Oaja Grande. 

Anacachi rock. Anacachi rock, on which a Chilian brig of that name was 
lost, is about J mile N. 36° W. from Oaja Chica and 3 miles 



ISLA GRANDE. 



243 



K. 81° W. from the flagstaff of Copiapo. There are only 
10 feet of water on it at low tide. 

Isla Grande is to seaward of the N. point of Copiapo ; it is Ma Grande, 
very easily distinguished, as it has a small hillock on each 
extremity, the easternmost being the highest. Just to the 
west of the center of the island is another small round hil- 
lock. The middle of the channel between Isla Grande and the 
continent is clear of danger, but there is such a heavy swell 
in it that it is seldom taken. A reef runs out 400 yards to 
the eastward from the N. extremity of the island ; 200 yards 
from the reef there are 8J fathoms. There appears to be 
no danger on the coast of the continent opposite this island. 
The rocks to the southward of this part of the mainland are 
inside of the alignment of the points to the north ; to the 
northward of the island are two rocks, one of which is high, 
but these dangers do not extend out more than % mile. 

The nearest anchorage for large vessels is in 5 fathoms, Directions. 
with Oaja Chica bearing S. 82° W., the western extremity 
of Isla Grande N, 23° W., the jetty or landing-place S. 10° 
W., and the flag-staff, which is 85 feet above the sea, S. 39° 
W. The Morro of Copiapo kept open of Isla Granda will 
lead well to the westward of all the dangers off Copiapo. 

There are several channels. That between Caja Chica 
and Caja Grande, though often used, is very dangerous on 
account of Anacachi rocks. Caja Chica must be kept at a 
distance of 800 to 1,200 yards, and the flag-staff above Co- 
piapo on the bearing E. 14° S. ; but without a steady breeze, 
one which can be relied on, this passage should not be taken. 
Xeither should a sailing-vessel take the channel between 
point Dallas and the reefs to the southward; for if the wind 
should die out, which often happens under the high cliffs, 
she would be in a dangerous position. 

The most natural and best passage is to the northward of 
Caja Graude. In order to avoid the rocks, when coming 
from the southward, Isla Grande must be brought to bear 
N. 59° E., and steer on this bearing until the K extremity 
of the sandstone rocks to the northward of the city bears 
at least S. 64° 30' E., on which course the harbor can be 
entered, until the flag-staff above the city bears S. 36° E., 
when steer for it, and anchor as convenient. In case the 



244 



FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 



Tides. 



Point Medio. 



Yngl6s bay. 



Port Yngl6s. 



flag-staff, which is small, cannot be seen immediately, a 
house in the city, remarkable for its bright copper roof, can 
be brought on the same bearing. 

In coming from the northward vessels will probably have 
to beat, when the continent can be approached to within J 
mile, and Isla Grande to within a less distance. When 
beating to the eastward of Oaja Grande, or the other reefs, 
a line running K". 8° W. and S. 8° E., which joins the W. 
point of Isla Grande and the mountainous part of point 
Dallas, should not be passed. With a northerly wind, the 
anchorage can be approached in 6 to 12 fathoms by keep- 
ing the flag-staff S. 25° E. 

Vessels must always ride to a long scope in this roadstead, 
with a second anchor ready, as the sea often gets up without 
warning. The bottom is hard and holds badly. Soundings 
are very regular from 12 fathoms to 3 fathoms alongside of 
the beach 5 the bottom is principally hard, yellow sand, with 
some spots of yellow sandstone. Several vessels have been 
drifted ashore in this bay, having dragged, owing to the 
heavy sea which sets in suddenly. 

It is high water, full and change, at Oopiapo at 8 h 30 m ; 
rise, 5 feet. 

Point Medio, which is very rocky, is on the continent, to 
the northward of Isla Grande. On its SW. point are two 
abrupt knobs, and near them several rocks and islets, but 
there are no dangers to seaward. 

Eroin point Medio to the Morro de Copiapo the coast is 
formed of bluffs, with remarkable patches of white rock on 
the cliffs to the southward of the point, which is perpen- 
dicular and surmounted by abrupt blocks. The Morro 
rises suddenly a little in the interior. 

Passing point Morro, a deep bay, called Yngles, opens to 
the SE.; in it are several patches of rock. At the northern 
limit of a long sand-beach there is a piece of rocky coast, 
off the extremity of which is a small island. 

Port Yngl6s is just to the northward of this island, and 
back of the peninsula of Galdereta, 200 yards off which lies 
a rock, covered at high water, but it can always be recog- 
nized from the breakers. After passing this rock the coast 
is steep-to, and can be approached to within at least 200 
yards. The port embraces several small coves. In the first, 



PORT CALDERA. 245 

p 

which is to starboard of the entrance, small vessels can 
anchor, but the bottom is of stone ; there is a low island to 
the eastward of this cove. Half way between this island 
and the east point is the best anchorage during S. winds. 
Small vessels can go farther into the bight, to the SE. of the 
island 5 in it there is a good landing-place. The bay in the 
NE. angle of the port is well sheltered from N. winds, and 
the sea never enters it, but landing is difficult. The best 
place for this is the rocky point at the southern extremity 
of the NE. beach, or in a small cove among the rocks, where 
the sea is perfectly calm. This bay, which has from 6 to 9 
fathoms, is the best anchorage in the port, but there is no 
fresh water. The S. coast is too shoal, and a large vessel 
cannot run in further than off the east point, where there 
are from 4 to 6 fathoms in midchannel. The bottom in the 
port is of hard sand; it can easily be seen in 12 fathoms; 
at the entrance there are 18 fathoms close to either shore. 

Port Oaldera is 1 J miles from the entrance to port Yngles, Port caidera. 
on the other side of an island close to Oaldera point, the 
western extremity of the port. 

A light-house stands on a small hillock which overlooks L ^ igh 2 Vo h o3/ u w* 
point Caidera ; it is a square, white, wooden tower, 42 feet g^ long. 70° 53' 
high ; opposite to it is a small wooden house, serving as a 
kitchen. From the lantern is exhibited, 123 feet above the 
level of the sea, a white, fixed light, flashing every 90 seconds, 
and visible 15 miles in clear weather. The light cannot be 
seen until it bears to the eastward of N. 25° E., the Morro 
intervening. From the light-house, point Cabeza de Yaca 
bears N. 5° 30' E., and point Morro S. 549 20' E. 

The anchorage for large vessels at Caidera is in 9 to 12 Anchorage. 
fathoms, J mile from the land and a little to the southward 
of point Caleta. There are two buoys near the pier, to 
facilitate hauling alongside. Vessels of 1,000 tons can load 
and discharge at the pier in 3J to 3f fathoms. 

A sailing-vessel must be careful when approaching with 
a scant wind, as the current and the swell drift toward the 
rocks N. of point Francisco, the northern extremity of the 
bay. 

Caidera is a beautiful bay, well sheltered, but more open 

* The longitude given of Caidera appears to be 2' too far to the west- 
ward.— Lieut. F. A. Miller, U. S. N. 



246 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

than port Yngl6s. The N. wind, the enemy of all the har- 
bors and roadsteads in Chile, sometimes blows in the bay 
and raises considerable sea in its S. corner. But as Oal- 
dera is near the northern limit of northers, they are seldom 
strong enough to be dangerous to a vessel well anchored. 
Point Oabeza de Yaca, 12 miles distant, also protects the 
bay a little, and the NE. corner, called Calderillo, is always 
smooth. 

The surrounding country, with exception of a few rocks 
Description, on the points, is entirely covered with light sand. The land 
around the bay is low, but at a short distance in the interior 
it rises to a chain of hills, whose summits become higher as 
they recede from the coast. To the eastward is a mountain 
with a remarkable pointed summit ; its slopes are covered 
with sand, and near them are two small hummocks. Port 
Oaldera, the second commercial harbor in Chile, has been 
one of the most rapidly-developed places in South America. 
A large mole runs out from the rocks in the SE. angle of 
the bay, which is used for loading and discharging, and 
belongs to the railroad, which is extended to its end, with 
every convenience. The railroad runs to the city of Copiapo, 
60 miles in the interior, crossing all the mule-paths which 
come from the silver-mines. It has branches to Chanarcillo, 
San Antonio, and Puquios, in the mining regions. The 
road is fitted with excellent American locomotives and cars, 
and is under an energetic and capable direction. Trains 
run twice a day. There are two other wharves which belong 
to the furnaces — Hornos del Norte y Hornos del Sur — in the 
eastern part of the port. There is a semaphore station a 
little to the southward of point Caleta. 

There is a telegraph to Santiago and Valparaiso. 

Ballast is thrown to the northward, near the railroad 
wharf, on a small chain of rocks. 

The town, which is built of wood, rose like magic from 
the sand and rocks around the bay. It is laid out in squares, 
and has already some fine two-story houses. Fresh provis- 
ions and vegetables can be obtained, but no fresh water ; 
the inhabitants condense it or have it brought by the rail- 
road from Copiapo. During the last few years the railroad 
company has started a condenser, which condenses about 
7,000 gallons per day. A reservoir containing over 42,000 
gallons supplies the city through pipes. 



POINT CABEZA DE VACA. 247 

Fish can be caught in the bay, but only with a seine. They 
are seldom caught along the coast. There are some rock- 
fish near the outer points of ports Yngles and Caldera, but 
there is always a heavy surf. 

There are 5 s melting-furnaces at Caldera, the fires of which 
can be seen at a long distance. The Mexican and South 
American Company does a large business by importing sil- 
ver-ores and copper from Chile, Bolivia, and Peru, and ex- 
porting copper and copper-ores, silver and silver-ores, to the 
United States, England, and Hamburg. 

Beef and mutton can be procured, the auimals being 
brought from the interior by the railroad. 

The remarkable point Cabeza de Vaca is about 12 miles Point cabewde 

^ Vaca. 

to the northward of Caldera. On its extremity are two 
small hillocks, back of which the land is level for some dis- 
tance, where there are some low hills which terminate 
in a long mountain-chain. The coast between this point 
and Caldera forms several small bays, which are separated 
by rocky points. There are rocks at short distances to sea- 
ward of all of them. 

There are no dangers more than J mile from point Cabeza 
de Yaca. To the northward of it is a small bay, full of 
rocks, called Totoralillo, and off the K point of its entrance 
is a reef which extends J mile from the land and is termi- 
nated by a high rock. Heavy breakers are observed during 
rough weather about \ mile MW. from this reef. 

The coast to the northward of Totoralillo is steep and ^f^^ 
rocky for three or four miles. A high chain of mountains 
runs parallel and close to the shore. Obispito cove has a 
white rock off its south point ; further on, the coast is low 
and rocky, with breakers \ mile from the shore. About 2 
miles N. of Obispito is a point with a small white island off 
it; to the northward of this the coast runs east, forming 
the small cove of Obispo, in which will be seen a high sand- 
hill with a stony summit. The Beagle was anchored in this 
cove, but it cannot be of much use to vessels, as it is so dif- 
ficult to land. A little to the northward and inland from 
Obispo is a higher chain of stony hills, which extends 7 
miles. This chain terminates abruptly just inside of a brown 
point, whose extremity, seen from the southward, seems to 
have a white patch on it ; but the patch is an islet. 



248 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

Port Flamenco- Port Flamenco is to the northward of this point • it is a good 
harbor, well sheltered against S. winds, and better against 
those from the 1ST., as the N. point projects enough to keep 
the heavy sea from coming in. The land on the N. side of 
the bay is very low • the N. point is flat and rocky. A little 
in the interior is a detached hill rising out of the low land, 
and to the northward is another hill resembling it. 

The land at the head of the bay is but slightly elevated ■ 
back of it is a deep valley which runs between two ranges 
of steep hills. All of the hills are covered with yellow sand 
from their bases about half-way up,* their summits are 
stony, and have some stunted bushes on them. 

Landing is easy in the SE. corner of the bay, either on 
the rocks, or on the beach of a small cove which is in the 
middle of a reef of rocks a little farther to the north. In 
1835 there were some huts in which two families lived • the 
huts were made of the skins of the sea-calf and the guanaco, 
and were inferior to the toldos of Patagonia. The only 
drinking-water these people had was half salt, and found at 
some distance from the beach. Their principal occupation 
was catching, drying, and salting conger eels, which are 
numerous at Flamenco, for the market at Oopiapo. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Flamenco at 9 11 10 m - 

rise 5 feet. 

cove of Las An- To the northward of Flamenco is a bay without any land- 
ing whatever. It is entirely rocky, with some few scattered 
patches of sand, and a heavy surf always rolls on the 
beach. The north point ot the bay is low, but a short dis- 
tance in the interior there is another chain of hills, whose 
outside slopes are very rugged. To the north of this point 
is a small rocky cove called las Animas * it does not ap- 
pear suitable for vessels, and landing in it is very difficult. 
The north point of this bay is formed by a steep rock and a 
rounded hill which rises directly out of the water- the sides 
of the hills have remarkable black veins running in differ- 
ent directions. 

chanaraideLaa Chanaral bay, much deeper than the cove of Las Animas, 

Animaa bay. 7 _ 

is to the eastward of its north point. The east and north 
shores of this bay are low and sandy, and a heavy surf 
breaks constantly on the shore • the southern part is rocky, 



BAY OF CHANARAL DE LAS ANIMAS. 249 

off which is the anchorage in 12 fathoms. There is no shel- 
tered place where vessels can haul in to load. 

Mr. James Gales, master of the Florence Nightingale, 
says Chaiiaral is the worst place on the coast, but the fol- 
lowing remarks may be of use to strangers : A short dis- 
tance N. of Las Animas is a clay-colored granite point, 
around which there is a deep cove. About J mile NE. of this 
point is another point somewhat similar, but whiter toward 
the extremity, named Piedra Blanca; 800 yards NE. of 
Piedra Blanca is a black, rugged point named Piedra Ne- 
gra ; half-way between these points, and 400 yards from the 
shore, is the best anchorage, off the loading-place, in 7 fath- 
oms — black sand. A dangerous rock, with 8 feet of water 
on it at low water, lies 133 yards outside the outermost rock 
above water, off Piedra Blanca. Ships in this bay should 
not lie with less than 45 fathoms of cable out, as rollers 
frequently set in. 

All over Chanaral bay the depth is about 10 fathoms, and 
shoal water extends some distance to seaward. At 5 to 6 
miles off the bay, with point Las Animas bearing S. 14° W., 
and Sugar-loaf N. 8° W., there are 38 fathoms. Vessels 
may, therefore, under most circumstances, stand into the 
bay with a certainty of finding an anchorage in easy depth, 
which would be better than to attempt to tow off if caught 
near the shore by the wind dying out. 

At the bottom of Chaiiaral bay is a deep ravine, strongly 
resembling the Pisagua in Peru, but without water ; this 
ravine forms a funnel through which the wind rushes with 
great force, from the sea by day and from the land by night, 
which does not tend to improve the anchorage. There is a 
mole, but its bad construction and position render it in- 
adequate to the wants of commerce. Drinking-water with 
a disagreeable taste can be obtained only after 3 hours 7 walk 
from the village. 

The mines are 15 miles from Chanaral. Ballast is thrown 
in a small cove to the westward of the end of the mole. The 
port is regularly visited by English and Chilian steamers. 

The north point of the bay is low and rocky ; a little in 
the interior is a high chain of mountains. The coast and 
hills to the northward of this point are formed of brown and 
red rocks ; the summits of some of the hills are covered 



cove 



2S0 FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 

with bushes. The sandy appearance of the mountains to 
the southward ceases here, and the coast seems, if possible, 
more barren. 

Pan de Azucar rphe coast between Ohanaral and the island Pan de Azu. 
car, 9 miles to the northward, is rocky and offers no shelter. 
There is, however, a small bay which affords some protec- 
tion against N. winds, to the southward of the island ; it is 
exposed to south winds, and it is difficult to land in it. The 
island Pan de Azucar is 600 feet high and about J mile 
from the land. Coming from the southward, a mountain of 
the same form, a little south of the island, may be mistaken 
for it, but the latter is lower and its summit more slender. 
In the shoalest part of the middle of the channel between 
the island and continent there are 5 fathoms. Toward its 
northern extremity the sea is calm, and vessels anchor under 
its lee, sheltered from south winds, in 6 to 8 fathoms $ as 
soon as the depth is over 8J fathoms, the water deepens rap- 
idly to 13 and 20 fathoms, about J mile from the island. 
To the northward of the channel, on the continent, is a 
small bay in which vessels can probably find shelter against 
S. winds. Ballast is thrown on the rocky point separating 
the two bays. 

Fitz Eoy observed J knot northerly current between this 
island and the continent, but it was after a fresh southerly 
breeze which had blown for several days. The coasters say 
that this current generally attains a velocity of £ mile. 
There are two private moles at the anchorage of Pan de 
Azucar. 

Point Baiiena. Point Ballena is 19 miles K". of the island Pan de Azucar; 
it is a salient point, surrounded by several small islets of rock. 
The rocky coast between this point and the island Pan de 
Azucar is not so high ; immediately back of it is a mountain- 
chain more than 2,000 feet in height. 

To the northward of Point Ballena is a small bay, which 
contains a small rocky islet whose white summit is about J 
mile west of the south point ; this bay is called Ballenita j 
it hardly deserves the name of a port. There are two or 
three small sand-beaches among the rocks, on which the 
sea breaks heavily, and the hills, which come close to the 
sea, have a very rugged appearance. 






LAV ATA BAY. 



251 



Point San 
dro. 



Pe- 



Lavata bay is about 6 miles to the northward of Ballenita Lavata bay. 
bay ; its south point has several spurs of low and abrupt 
rocks from it to seaward, and inshore the mountains are 
very precipitous. Directly behind the point is a small cove 
in which the Beagle anchored, where there is an excellent 
landing-place. This is the outer cove; there is another in- 
side, which appears to be better, but it is far from the coast- 
line, and there is no information regarding it. The outer 
harbor appears to offer excellent shelter against south winds, 
and the water is smooth. 

To the northward of Lavata is a point which resembles an Tortoias islets. 
island until close aboard ; it is connected with the mainland 
by a low neck of pebbles. The summit of the point is steep, 
with several rugged peaks. The name of Tortoias has been 
given to the scattered rocky islets to seaward of this point. 

Point San Pedro is 3J miles from Tortoias islets ; it is very 
abrupt, and a little inshore is a high and rounded hillock 
There are several rocks to seaward of this point. 

To the eastward of point San Pedro the deep bay of isiaBiancabay 
Blanca opens ; it is full of rocks, and has no good anchorage. 
Inside of point San Pedro is a reef which makes out .J mile. 
At the head of the bay are several small white islets and 
two or three sandy coves, but they are too small to offer 
any shelter to vessels. 

About 8J miles from point San Pedro is point Taltal, 
which is surrounded for 500 yards from the shore by steep 
rocky islets, having 8| fathoms close to them. Behind point 
Taltal is the fine bay of Taltal, 2 miles wide and 1 deep, 
with good anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms 200 yards from the 
village. 

The bay is completely open to the northward, but it has 
several deep indentations where boats can land easily. 

The mountains surrounding the bay are barren, and water 
has to be brought from a place called los Perales, 6 miles 
SE. of the anchorage, on the slope of a mountain. The 
depth increases rapidly from the anchorage ; there are 30 
fathoms on the line drawn from point Taltal to point Hueso 
Parado, the northern extremity of the bay. The anchorage 
is otherwise clear ; the sea is smooth, bottom hard fine sand. 
There are two private wharves off the village. Ballast is 
thrown on point Hueso Parado. The bay is full of fish 



Port Taltal or 
Hueso Parado. 



252 



FROM COQUIMBO TO BOLIVIA. 



Bay of Nuestra 
Senora. 



Point Grande. 



Roadstead 
Paposo. 



of 



and abounds with eatable shell-fish. It is in latitude 25° 
25' 30" S. 

The coast between point Taltal and point Grande, 17 
miles to the northward, forms a long indentation, which has 
been called the bay of Nuestra Senora. On the other side 
of Hueso Parado, 3 or 4 miles from point Taltal, is a white 
island, on which there are several abrupt hillocks, and a 
little in the interior is a hill of a lighter color than any in the 
vicinity. 

The coast then continues to the north, projecting to the 
westward at point Grande, which is 1,570 feet high, and 
when seen from the southward appears high and rounded ; 
it is terminated by a low and abrupt edge, surmounted by 
several hummocks ; it is surrounded by rocks and break- 
ers for J mile. 

About 9 J miles from point Grande is point Rincon, near 
which there is a large white rock. The village of Paposo is 
situated between these points. It is a poor settlement, of 
about 200 inhabitants. Near the beach is a chapel. The huts 
are scattered and hard to distinguish, as they are of the 
same color as the mountains back of them. 

Paposo is an open roadstead, with a very steep bottom 
and but one landing-place, under point Huanillo, about 2 
miles south of the village ; it is in latitude 25° 02' 25" S., 
and longitude 70° 32' 10" W. To the eastward of this small 
point is an interior cove with 2 fathoms of water. There are 
a few houses on its banks. The anchorage is in 16 to 20 
fathoms, bottom fine sand, about 400 yards WNW. of point 
Huanillo. The coast between it and the village is full of 
rocks ; the mountains, which are 776 yards from the beach, 
show some vegetation. 

The watering-place of Unquillar, betweeen the chapel and 
the beach, is about 2 miles from the landing-place. It does 
not afford very good water, but it is the most abundant and 
the best between Mexillones de Bolivia and Oaldera. Fitz 
Roy speaks of some wells 2 miles distant. Water is taken 
in with difficulty except at point Huanillo. The inhabitants 
fish for conger eels, which they sell to the Indians of the 
interior at San Pedro de Atacama. Wood can be procured. 

A few vessels touch at Paposo to take in dried fish or 






*~ 







9 
ft 

— i 
w 





4 * 

4 1 



ft 




9 

o s 
A 

* i 




ROADSTEAD OF PAPOSO. 



253 



copper-ore. The former is abundant; there is but little, 
however, of the latter, as the mines are from 21 to 24 miles 
to the SE., and are not much worked. 

Vessels bound for Paposo should run on the 25th parallel ; 
when within from 6 to 9 miles the white rock off point Bin- 
con will be seen, and soon afterwards the low white point of 
Huanillo, which should be steered for and the anchor 
dropped as before indicated. 

During clear weather, which is rare, a round hill, higher 
than the others and directly back of the village, is a good 
landmark. 

Point Plata is 23 miles ET. 9° W. from point Grande, and 
resembles it in all particulars. It is 1,670 feet high, and is 
terminated by a low tongue of land with some rocks at its 
extremity. These rocks form a small bay to the northward, 
with irregular bottom covered by 7 to 16J fathoms of water. 

The coast between points Plata and El Oobre follows in 
almost a straight line, rocky and steep. It is surmounted 
by hills from 2,000 to 2,500 feet elevation. There is no shel- 
ter whatever. 

El Oobre cove, in latitude 24° 14' 50" S. and longitude 
70° 35' 30" W., is about 30 miles K of point Plata ; it is 
sheltered from the prevailing winds and the bottom is good. 
Large vessels moor 500 yards N. of some houses on a sand- 
beach in 16 fathoms of water; fine sand. Small vessels 
anchor at half that distance in 7 fathoms. Landing is very 
easy on the sand-point under the shelter of some projecting 
rocks. The interior point of the cove, off which the anchor- 
age is, is foul. Basse Moreno says that the sea breaks on a 
shoal 200 yards from the point ; it is nearly at the extremity 
of a bank of rock covered by 2 fathoms. 

All the mountains which surround this cove are barren 
and full of ores. There is no fresh water ; it has to be brought 
from a gorge called Botija, which is to the southward. 

This cove can easily be recognized, from the green and 
crimson color of the mountains and by a small white island 
2 miles further to the northward. 

Seven miles before arriving at cape Jara, in 24° south 
latitude, is the coast-boundary between Chile and Bolivia, 
the neutral territory extending to the 23d degree. 



Directions 



Point Plata. 



El Cobre cove. 



CHAPTER IX. 

ISLANDS OFF THE COAST OF CHILE. 

Variation easterly, Juan Fernandez 17° 38' E., San Felix 13° 40' E. Annual increase 

about V 30". 

Juan Fernandez and Mas a Fuera. 

The Juan Fernandez group, consisting of two principal 
islands, belonging to Chile, were discovered by the Spanish 
pilot Juan Fernandez in 1574. The easternmost of these 
islands is generally known as Juan Fernandez, but it is also 
called by the Spaniards Mas a tierra, to distinguish it from 
the westernmost island, named, from its greater distance 
from the continent, Mas a fuerra. 
dez Ua or ^as an a With the intention of establishing himself on the island 
tierra. ]\j as a tierra, Juan Fernandez left there a number of goats, 

which multiplied rapidly and became one of the principal 
resources of the buccaneers who, from there, plundered the 
Spanish vessels and settlements. In 1704 the commander 
of the Cinque ports left on the island the master of the ves- 
sel, Alexander Selkirk, famous through Daniel de Foe's ro- 
mance of Robinson Crusoe. 

In 1751 the Chilian government founded a colony upon 
the island, which was destroyed in the same year by an 
earthquake. The island then appears to have been deserted 
until 1819, when the government established there a penal 
colony. Following a revolt of the criminals this project was 
abandoned, and the island was farmed out by the Chilian 
government. Near the landing in San Juan Bautista or 
Cumberland bay there are at present a few houses with 30 
to 40 Chilian settlers, who supply cattle and other requi- 
sites to vessels arriving. 

The island of Juan Fernandez, about 360 miles west of 
Valparaiso, extends nearly 10J miles E. and W., and 5 miles 
K and S. It is mountainous and wooded; the NE. part espe- 
cially is composed of rocky mountains and valleys almost 
entirely covered with wood ; the southern part is compara- 
tively low and flat, and almost barren. 



PRODUCTIONS— CLIMATE. 



255 



The greatest elevation is the mountain called el Yunque, 
3,042 feet, wooded to its summit. From seaward it shows 
above the other volcanic chains, and from the NE. is a 
good representation of a blacksmith's anvil. The vegeta- 
tion is quite rich, though stunted on the flanks of the mount- 
ains. The valleys, which are not extensive on the north 
coast, the only one generally visited by vessels, are watered 
by numerous torrents. 

The wild peach and fig are abundant ; the myrtle tree is Productions, 
common 5 la chonta, a species of palm, as hard but more flexi- 
ble than ebony, is much esteemed. The principal, if not the 
only, game is the wild goat. Water is abundant, and easily 
obtain ed at San Juan Bautista or Cumberland bay. Fine cat- 
tle and goats are raised on the island, with some hogs and 
poultry, and fruit of indifferent quality. The bay swarms with 
fish ; the cod is taken at Bacalao point, and also at point Love- 
riaj the lobster abounds, and is of excellent quality. At 
present, this island, as also Mas a fuera, is leased to a Chil- 
ian merchant, who keeps up the settlement for supplying 
vessels and for hunting the seal during the season, the 
average taken being about one thousand skins in the three 
months, valued at from $15 to $20 the skin before they are 
cured. 

The climate of Juan Fernandez is much the same as that cumate. 
of Valparaiso. It is more rainy, and though damp from the 
frequent showers from the clouds, which during the night 
are arrested by the high mountains, it is considered very 
healthy. 

The fine season is from October to April, often from Sep- 
tember to May. During this season the mornings are gen- 
erally overcast, with occasional rain-squalls. As the breeze 
springs up the clouds disperse, and the day is clear. To- 
ward evening, and especially during the night, the clouds 
collect again on the summits, and squalls of wind and rain 
sweep down to the bay, which are straining to the cables and 
at times cause vessels to drag. 

The bad or rainy season is from May to September, or 
from April to October. Then it rains usually on alternate 
days, with calms or strong breezes from the northward. 



256 



JUAN FERNANDEZ. 



winds. From October to April the winds prevail from SSW. to 

SE., their direction being affected by the contour of the val- 
leys. During this season vessels from Valparaiso for Juan 
Fernandez should hold their wind from the start, to make 
the island without tacking. 

Between the continent and this group the winds blow 
fresh from S. to SSW., with at times a light breeze from 
SW. On approaching the islands the prevailing wind is from 
S. to SE. During the bad season, from April to October, the 
winds are light and irregular, with calms ; winds from the 
WSW., and at times gales from the NW., which are indi- 
cated by the barometer. 

Land-fan. The island of Juan Fernandez is easily recognized from 

whichever side it is made. As there is no shelter to the 
south, it is usually approached from the northward. El 
Yunque is a good point of reconnoissance when clear of the 
morning mists. 

From the east point, around the north shore of the island, to 
the island Santa Clara, the coast is perfectly clear and can 
, be approached within a short distance. It is best, however, 
not to keep too close to it before approaching the anchor- 
age, on account of the violent gusts from the hills, the vari- 
ableness of the wind, and the intervals of calm. 

Coming from the southward either extremity of the island 
can be doubled ; but for a sailing-vessel it is best to double 
the east point, to reach more readily the anchorage of San 
Juan Bautista. 

ouaaabuiiena The easternmost point of the island, Guasabullena point, 
is a high steep cliff; about j mile S. 74° W. from it is a re- 
markableislet of a conical form, called Morro Caletas. From 
point Guasabullena the coast of the island of Juan Fernan- 
dez trends about N. 29° W. to point Pescadores, the NE. 
point of the island, when it inclines more to the westward 
to point Bacalao, and thence S. 75° W. to point Loveria, the 
extreme eastern limit of San Juan Bautista or Cumberland 
bay. This coast is an u ninterrupted steep cliff, about 984 
feet in height and of a reddish brown color; the points and 
the coast are free from danger. A small islet lies J mile to 
the S., eastward of Pescadores point but close to the shore. 
There is a slight indentation in this coast about 1 mile to 
the northwestward of Guasabullena point, called Puerto 
Frances ; in it there is neither anchorage nor shelter. 



point, 




'"» 






I 
I 



1 




.a 



SAN JUAN BAUTISTA OR CUMBERLAND BAY. 



257 



Directions. 



Cumberland bay is the only anchorage of the island: the,. San J ™ n Ban. 

J J ° 7 tista or Cumber- 

depthS are considerable, the best anchorage being in about land bay. 

25 fathoms, bottom fine white sand, about J mile from the 

beach, with the flag-staff on the fort N. 7G° W.j the small 

rock off point San Carlos N. 19° W., and the southernmost 

of the grottoes S. 83° W., or more to the northward and to 

seaward, with the southernmost of the grottoes S. 69° W. 

and the rock off point San Carlos N. 31<? W. In the SE. part 

of the bay the bottom is rock. 

Following the coast from the eastward, the bay is easily 
recognized from the houses which are on its SW. shore, and 
from seven grottoes situated back of the houses and to the 
southward of the remains of the fort. As before stated, the 
coast should not be approached nearer than 1 mile, on ac- 
count of the gusts which drive down the ravines. 

Coming from the N. or KW., West bay may be taken for 
the anchorage of San Juan Bautista, as from seaward this 
bay has a better appearance, the land is more level, and the 
slope toward the mountains more gradual, but by referring 
to the bearing of El Yunque the mistake cannot be made; 
besides San Juan Bautista being the only bay from which 
El Yunque presents its remarkable appearance. 

The anchorage should be approached under short sail. 
On closing the west part of West bay by point San Carlos 
the depth will be found considerable, but the next sounding 
will give probably 28 fathoms. 

The bay being entirely open to the northward, vessels 
should not anchor there during the bad season. Although 
the natives state that the high mountains prevent these 
winds from blowing home, the same may be said of north- 
erly gales at this anchorage as at that of Valparaiso. Fre- 
quently they do no harm, but at times they come suddenly 
from the X. or NW. and raise a tremendous sea, which of 
itself is sufficient to force a vessel to leave the anchorage 
or to drive her on shore. 

It is high water, full and change, at Cumberland bay at 
9 b 55 m ; rise 6 feet. 

Point San Carlos, which is the western extremity of the 

bay of San Juan Bautista, is not so clean as that of Lave- 

ria. About 230 feet from it is a rock, the head of which 

only can be seen at high water. As distances are very decep- 

17 c 



Tides. 



Point San Ca- 



258 JUAN FERNANDEZ. 

tive under high land, it is best to give this point a good 
berth until the rock is made out. 

From point San Carlos to West bay, the distance of a 
short mile, the coast is formed of abrupt, perpendicular 
cliffs, which attain at some points an elevation of 1,250 
feet. The bay offers no shelter. It appears to be more fer- 
tile than that of San Juan, but the shore cannot be ap- 
proached, owiug to the surf. The only point where landing 
can be effected is in a cavity which is seen to the SE. of a 
perforated rock, where the beach is of large stones. In this 
bay is the grotto where Selkirk lived. A torrent of good 
water runs into the bay. 

Salinas point forms the NW. entrance to West bay; back 
of it is a remarkable mountain, 2,382 feet high, called the 
El Pilon de Azucar. At the foot of the cliff are two land- 
slides and a remarkable pointed rock. One-half mile to 
the westward of Salinas point is an indentation deeper than 
West bay, called Vacaria bay ; even landing in it is hardly 
practicable, owing to the surf. Off the eastern extremity of 

this bay is a rock, under water, lying close to the shore. 
viudo point. A ghort j mile tQ the westwar(i of y acar i a bay is Yiudo 

point, the north point of the island. It is remarkable, the 
cliff being cut as the teeth of a saw. About 110 yards off 
this point are three dark rocks, steep-to. 

From point Viudo the coast runs to the S W. to Los Negros 
or Einion point, which is the NW. point of the island 5 
about 270 yards to the southward of this point is a high 
islet, having the form of a sugar-loaf. The shore here 
makes in to the eastward, forming a deep indentation called 
Faith bay, which is almost always rough and impracticable. 
From the SW. extremity of this bay, Lemos point, the coast 
trends uniformly to the SW. 

Point Padre Before arriving at Island point, the SW. point of the 
island, there is a bay, open to the west, called Point Padre 
bay ; within it are several islands and rocks. 

island point. Island point is formed of two conical passes,- there is a 
grotto on it, and off it, close to shore, an isolated rock. 

south coa^. From Island point the coast trends to the southeastward 
to'Higgins point, the south point of the island ; close to this 
point there are two rocks. From Higgins point the shore, 
with several impracticable bays, trends to the northeast- 



MAS A FUEEA. 259 

ward, to Chamelo point; about | mile off shore, toward the 
middle of this stretch of coast, is an islet called Morro 
Vinillo, and off Chamelo point, extending to about the same 
distance off shore, are two rocks, with a rock under water 
between them. From Chamelo point the coast, called Los 
Corrales de Molina, trends about E. by S. to the east point 
of the island. 

Santa Clara island, lying south of the western point of .^ n a d nta CUra 
Juan Fernandez, and separated from it by a channel over f 
mile wide, is about 4 miles in circumference and 1,140 feet 
high. Coming from the northward it has the appearance 
of a steep cliff ; from the southward it presents an irregular 
aspect of paps and conical rocks; its eastern extremity de- 
scends gradually to the sea. It appears to be barren, with 
a few stunted shrubs on its eastern slope. 

On its NW. point a stream runs along the cliff to the sea. 
Landing is dangerous, the sea breaking on nearly the whole 
contour of the island. Off its southwest extremity is a 
rock, lying close to the island, and there are two others, 
similarly situated, south of the island. In the channel be- 
tween this island and Juan Fernandez the sea is usually 
rough. 

Mas a Fuera is about 92 miles to the west of Juan Fernau- Mas a puera. 
dez; it is about 9 miles long and 2 J miles wide; its summit is 
0,036 feet above the sea-level, its northern peak being 4,398 
feet high. It is covered with trees, and on its sides are 
several waterfalls running to the sea, but there is no anchor- 
age. There is a bank on its north coast, but it is steep-to, 
and the water is so deep tliat were a vessel to anchor on it 
she would necessarily be almost touching the land, and ex- 
posed to all winds except those from the southward. Cattle 
have been placed on this island by the farmers of Juan Fer- 
nandez. 

San Felix and San Ambrosio. 

The islands of San Felix and San Ambrosio were discov- 
ered in 1574 by the Spanish pilot who gave his name to the 
island of Juan Fernandez. They lie about 500 miles from 
Copiapo, and are visited solely for the purpose of fishing. 
They are of volcanic formation and almost entirely barren. 
Formerly these islands were the resort of multitudes of see 



260 SAN FELIX AND SAN AMBROSIO. 

birds aud seal, bat of late years the seal have almost entirely 
disappeared. There are no land birds, animals, or insects 
of any description on these islands, excepting a species of 
fly. There is no drinkable water on any part of the islands. 
The mean of many observers places tbe summit of the island 
of San Ambrosio in latitude 26° 19' 52" S., longitude 79° 57' 
26" W. 

The observations of captain Gormaz places the landing 
on theNW. side of San Felix, in latitude 26° W 46" S., longi- 
tude 80° 00 / 15" W. 

This group has been visited frequently by vessels of dif- 
ferent nationalities from the date of their discovery to the 
present day. The description here given is taken from the 
remarks of captain Kamon Vidal Gormaz, who in command 
of the Chilian war- vessel Oavadonga surveyed these islands 
in 1874. 
San Feiix, de- The island of San Felix extends E. and W. If miles 
with an average breadth of about J mile, which is reduced 
to 440 yards to the southward of the cove; the western part, 
called El Mono Amarille, is an abrupt projection, almost 
circular, 600 feet high ; from the morro to the southward 
the island is high and sloping. About 1,000 yards to the 
eastward of the morro it rises and forms a conical hillock 
when seen from the north ; from this point the island de- 
scends gradually to the NE. and terminates in a rocky point, 
having at low-tide a beach of black sand at its foot. 

Detached from the SE. point of San Felix is Gonzalez 
islet, 549 yards from the island, but united to it by a ridge of 
rocks awash, over which the sea always breaks heavily; 
this islet is elliptical, measuring 930 yards NE. and SW,, 
with an average breadth of 438 yards ; its height is 432 feet, 
steep on all sides and inaccessible. 

The southern part of San Felix is steep. There are two 
anchorages off the island, difficult to distinguish, separated 
by a salient point, opposite which and about 275 yards dis- 
tant is a line of flat reefs always above water, which extend 
328 yards E. and W., leaving a channel with a depth of 2| 
fathoms between them and the island. The western anchor- 
age, or that which is immediately to the SE. of El Morro 
Amarillo, forms the most of a bight, with a more considera- 
ble bank of soundings than the easternmost one. What 



SAN FELIX. 



261 



may be called the port of the island of San Felix is the tri- 
angular space between the cathedral of Peterborough, the 
inorro Amarillo and the NE. point of the island, but the 
anchorage is only the half of this space nearest to San 
Felix, within which the soundings vary from 18 fathoms in 
the outer part to 4 and 5 fathoms near the land. From the 
island to the cathedral the depth varies between 16 and 33 
fathoms, bottom black sand with intervals of rock, though 
the rock appears to occur less frequently at the anchorage, 
where there is a covering of about 1 foot of sand over hard 
bottom. The small cove which affords the landing-place of 
the island, seen from the north side when near San Felix, 
is very remarkable and readily distinguished; it is directly 
B. of the morro Amarillo, where the dark lava of the north 
steppes of the island joins with the morro. At the bottom of 
the bight is an arched grotto formed by various currents of 
lava piled above it. The landing is at the entrance of this 
grotto; there is no beach, and the only landing is under the 
vault of the grotto, where there is from G to 12 feet of water 
and an excellent place to take the lobster, which abounds and 
is equal to those found at Juan Fernandez; the bacalao, a 
species of cod-fish, a fine species of eel, called the murena, 
and the spotted dog-fish are also abundant. 

The rock called the cathedral of Peterborough lies 1 T ] ? 
miles N. 20° W. of the morro Amarillo of San Felix; it is 
154 feet in height, having the appearance of columns ; 
around the cathedral are some high and remarkable rocks. 
The depth in its vicinity varies from 16 to 20 fathoms a short 
distance from it ; the passage between it and San Felix is 
deep and clean. There are no hidden dangers in the vicin- 
ity of San Felix; the island can be approached from 100 to 
600 yards without risk ; its shores are all steep, rough, and 
inaccessible, except in the cove mentioned and in the vicin- 
ity of the NE. point. It must be remembered, however, that 
this point is only accessible in a calm and under the most 
favorable circumstances. 

It is high water, full and change, at San Felix at 9 L 10 m ; 
rise 6 J feet. 

The northern shore of the island of San Ambrosio, seen 
from the anchorage of San Felix, is in line with the NE. 
point of that island, bearing S. 78° E.; the distance between 



Tides. 



£an Ambroeio. 



262 SAN AMBROSIO. 

the islands is 9.C miles, from the eastern point of San Felix 
to the western point of San Ambrosio. There is no anchor- 
age around the island. At the distance of from 200 to 400 
yards the depth is from 55 to 60 fathoms, the least depths 
found being 29 and 46 fathoms 74 and 92 yards from the 
island. The island of San Ambrosio extends If miles E. and 
W., with a mean breadth of nearly \ mile; its form ap- 
proaches an ellipse ; viewed from the sea its summit has the 
appearance of an incomplet3 table, without any character- 
istic peak ; it has more verdure than San Felix. There is 
no indentation of consequence on the shore of the island, 
though in the middle of its northern part there is a nook 
which would shelter a boat. 

On the western side of San Ambrosio is a small elevated 
rock separated but a short distance from the island, but 
sufficiently to see through when lookiug from the cathedral 
of Peterborough. To the eastward there are three small, 
pointed islets, about 402 feet high, pierced in the side of 
their base toward the island. The most distant of these 
islets, detached from San Ambrosio toward the E., is about 
875 yards ; outside the islets there is no hidden danger, and 
the soundings are deep to their vicinity, but the depths are 
not so great to the southward as to the northward of the 
island. 

It has been stated that the magnetic influence of these 
islands affects the compasses of vessels passing. Captain 
Gormaz states that the volcanic mass of these islands is by 
no means uniform ; the rocks ordinarily magnetic are in 
some locations positive, in others negative, causing a devi- 
ation of the needle from 1° to 3°, according to the preva- 
lence of the masses. At anchor off San Felix, simultaneous 
observations from ship and shore, employing different sta- 
tions, show the greatest variation to be 3°, with at times no 
difference in the angles. In vessels which pass a prudent 
distance from the islands their magnetic influence could 
not be sensible. 



THE COAST OF BOLIVIA, 



THE COaST OF BOLIVIA. 



CHAPTER X. 



FROM CAPE JARA TO THE RIVER LOA. 
Variation from 12° 30' to 11° 0.5' easterly, in 1376, increasing annually about 1/ 30''. 

Bolivia borders the Pacific Ocean for about 250 miles, 
from cape Jara in latitude 21° S. to the river Loa, in lati- 
tude 2lo 28' S. ; it is bounded to the XW. and N. by Peru, 
on the E. by Brazil and Paraguay, and to the SE. and S. 
by the republic of Chile; its extreme length being about 
1,100 miles, with a breadth of 800 miles. 

The coast of Bolivia is part of the desert of Atacama, 
which constitutes the province of that name. This province 
is sparsely populated, containing hardly from 0,000 to 8,000 
inhabitants. The coast is generally formed of high sand 
dunes, leaving but a few feet of beach, which is clean and 
can be followed at a short distance from the land. Like 
the coasts of Chile and Peru, it is constantly washed by 
the southerly swell, and has but few coves or inlets, and 
those generally bad. 

The desert of Atacama extends from Copiapo to the river Desert of At; 
Loa, and as far as Iquique and 120 miles into the interior, ca j 
to the spurs of the Cordillera of the Andes. It is barren 
and uninhabitable ; fresh water is unknown, and it never 
rains ; the easterly and southeasterly winds being arrested 
by the Andes, their snowy peaks condense all the humidity 
which comes across the plains of the Argentine Republic 
and Paraguay ; and the waters which come down from the 
Andes are lost in the sands of the desert, which renders 
them salt. 

The desert of Atacama is covered by black shifting sands, 
or dark brown sand varied at times by gravel and stones 
which are so sharp that the hunters of the guanaco have to 
shoe their dogs. It is probable that Bolivia was inundated 
to the foot of the Andes during prehistoric time, and that 



266 COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

this part was raised with all this coast of the continent; 
this is proved by the numerous fossil marine shells, caracoles, 
and large blocks of pure sea-salt, which are found in the 
ravines of the mountains; the soil itself is full of salts of 
lime and soda. 

The only products which were for a long time taken from 
these western slopes of the Andes were nitrate of soda and 
guano ; a few years ago, however, some very rich silver- 
ores were found in the midst of the desert at Caracoles, 
which is 951 feet above the sea. This place was connected 
with Mexillones by railroad. The port of Antofagasta was 
created, and the mines in this desolate part of the earth 
immediately became a source of strife between Peru, Chile, 
and Bolivia. 
CHmtte. The climate of the one hundred and fifty miles of coast 

of Bolivia does not need any special description after the 
remarks made on that of the northern provinces of Chile. 
Calms are very frequent, and the trade- winds take the place 
of local breezes. 

The prevailing winds are from SSE. to SSW., modified by 
the land and sea breeze ; the wind is generally light ; during 
the night it is usually calm. There is a thick damp fog 
from about 9 p. m. to 10 a. m., especially during the months 
of March, April, and May. There is little movement of the 
barometer, and no gales of wind; the swell is often heavy 
and without warning. 
Description The population of Bolivia is stated at about 1,742,352. 

The capital is Sucre, the ancient Chuquisaca, also called 
Charcas and la Plata; it has about 24,000 inhabitants. 

The republic of Bolivia has for a long time existed on its 
mines of precious metals: those of Potosi are still cele- 
brated, but they yield less and less. The exportation is 
much inferior to the importation, and the country becomes 
poorer and poorer. The civil discords are not calculated to 
improve this state of affairs. The exportation, which is in 
the hands of foreigners, consists of guano, niter, copper, 
and mineral ores. The United States and Europe supply 
all the necessaries of life. 

Formerly Peruvian bark was a source of wealth to Bolivia^ 
but it has been gathered so recklessly and the forests are 
so impoverished that it has almost ceased to be remunera- 
tive. 



PORT ANTOFAGASTA. 207 

Cape Jara is a steep rock, rounded on its northern side, Ca P e Jaia 
22 miles from el Oobre. The coast between them has the 
same aspect and direction as that to the southward of the 
latter. In the northern part of the cape is a small but safe 
cove, which can be used by small vessels. Vessels which 
are hunting tbe seal frequent it, and they leave their boats 
here to hunt in the vicinity. They are provided with fresh 
water, and for fuel they use the wrack which grows in abun- 
dance on the coast. No provisions are to be found for a 
considerable distance on either side of the point. Mount 
Jara, 4 miles to the eastward of the cape, is 3,980 feet high. 

Moreno bay commences 4 miles jS". 19° E. of cape Jara, Moreno bay. 
and extends to point Las Tetas, the SW. extremity of mount 
Moreno. Tbe coast between point Jara and the commence- 
ment of Moreno bay is high and rocky, and has no remark- 
able feature other than the Black rock, which lies a little to 
seaward. 

Moreno bay has several anchorages; it commences with 
Playa Brava, an inhospitable sand-coast bordered by high 
hills, in the center of which is the port of Antofagasta, 
about 13 miles from Black rock. 

Port Antofagasta is the harbor of export for the nitrate Port Antofa- 
of soda, which is found nine miles from the town, back of sa 
the first line of hills, as also of the silver-ores coming from the 
mines of Caracoles, 114 miles distan t, in the desert of Atacaraa. 

The anchorage is to the northward of a bank of stones 
which extends to seaward for J mile. The depth is from 14 to 
17^ fathoms; bottom stiff blue mud, covered by sand, coral, 
and shell. It is § of a mile from the moles of the p >rt. 

It is necessary to anchor far enough off the bank to have 
sufficient room to swing with from 45 to 00 fathoms of chain 
when the fresh wind from SSE. changes to N. Two anchors 
are always necessary, and in ordinary weather an anchor 
astern, with the head SSW., to stem the constant swell. 

The bank of stones is always washed by the swell. Off 
its NW. extremity, and a short distance from it, is a rock 
which is only visible with a moderate sea. It is thought 
that the Steamer Paita touched on it, and it was necessary 
to beach her near the mole in the inner harbor. Tbe bank 
is steep to, and has about 3J fathoms alongside. 

To the eastward of this bank is a cove with 3 fathoms of 



2CS COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

water, with a channel into it 210 yards wide, full of rocks, 
and from 3J to 5 fathoms deep. Two rocks, with 9 to 11 feet 
of water over them, situated in the line of the northern mole, 
render it dangerous ; the channel must be used only during 
a calm, and never by large vessels ; vessels not drawing 
more than 13 feet are perfectly secure, and sheltered from 
the sea by the bank, and can load very easily. At the bot- 
tom of the port are two moles, parallel to each other and 
projecting to the NW. When the weather is at all boister- 
ous the sea not only breaks heavily on the bank, but the 
entrance of the inner harbor is closed by a bar. This takes 
place at the change of the moon, and especially during the 
season of north winds, from April to July ; then not even 
lighters can lie alongside the mole. With the exception of 
these four months, the wind blows from the south during 
the day, with fresh land-breezes at night. 

Between two hills to the southward of the town is a wa- 
tering-place, with brackish water, which is used for the ani- 
mals ; the people drink condensed sea- water. 

Vessels bound to Antofagasta from the southward should 
make Jara head, then steer for the head of the bay of Mo- 
reno, keeping 4 or 5 miles from the land. When Antofa- 
gasta bears NE. by E., a large white anchor will be seen 
painted on a ridge back of the town. Continue along the 
land until the anchor bears E. 13° S., when steer for the 
anchor, and keep the lead going until in 16 fathoms, which 
is the anchorage. It is best to select a berth outside of other 
vessels. 

When coming from the northward the anchor will be seen 
as soon as point Las Tetas is doubled ; lower, and nearer 
the beach, the powder-house also will be seen, which is a 
hut covered with zinc and located above the principal street. 

It is advisable not to attempt to enter the anchorage at 
night, as the lights of the houses mislead, and there is great 
danger of grounding on the bank of stones. 

Antofagasta is an uncomfortable anchorage, owing to the 
constant swell. It is not sheltered, but neither wind nor 
swell has been experienced of sufficient strength to cause 
anxiety for the safety of vessels at anchor. No supplies are 
to be obtained, owing to the aridity of the country. 



ANCHORAGE OF CONSTITUOION. 269 

A line of railroad from Antofagasta to Salar del Carmen Railroad. 
was completed in 1874. 

Obimba* bay, 3J miles N. of Antofagasta, is to the east- fi . c ^ ba or Bo[ - 
ward of an islet 436 yards long, running to the KV^., called 
Oeste, Haanosa, or Bolfin ; a short distance to the northward 
of it are some rocks. The cove is very small, bat it is pro- 
tected from the prevailing winds. The anchorage is 200 
yards east of the N. point of the island in 7 or 8 fathoms, 
bottom fine sand ; there are hardly more than 200 yards to 
swing on every side, except to the NW. The island is tol- 
erably high, and has on it some guano, which was at one 
time exported, but it has been abandoned; there are also 
several depots of salt. The channel between the island and 
the mainland is only accessible to boats. There is no fresh 
water. 

From Obimba bay the coast trends NW., then south, 
forming the large bay of Jorge, bounded to the westward 
by mount Moreno. 

Mount Moreno was formerly called Jorge. It is the most -Mount Moreno. 
prominent point on this part of the coast. Its summit is 
4,160 feet above the level of the sea, and slopes to the south ; 
but to the northward it ends abruptly in barren plains. It 
is of a brown color, without the least sign of vegetation ; its 
western slope is cut by a deep ravine. The SW. point of 
the peninsula of Moreno descends gradually from the sum- 
mit of the mountain and ends in two hillocks, to which the 
Spaniards gave the name of Las Tetas. This point is 22 
miles N. 15° W. from cape Jara. 

Constitucion is a small but convenient anchorage formed 
toy the continent on the one side and by the island Forsyth 
on the other. It is situated immediately under mount Mo- 
reno, about 5 miles K. of point Las Tetas. A vessel can be 
hauled up and careened here without being exposed to the 
heavy swell which is felt in most of the ports on this coast; 
landing is easy. The best anchorage is to seaward of a sand- 
spit at the NE. point of the island, in 6 fathoms, muddy 
bottom. It is best to moor securely, as the sea-breeze some- 
times sets in very fresh. Farther out the holding-ground is 
bad, and on entering, the island or weather side should not 
be hugged too closely, as there are numerous sunken rocks, 
but few of which are indicated by sea-weed. It would be 

* Chimba is the name given by the natives. 



C o n s t i t u cion 
anchorage. 



270 COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

best to keep in inidchannel, provided the wind admits of 
reaching the anchorage. There is neither wood nor water 
in the vicinity. 

Esmeralda rock. About 4 miles N. of Forsyth islaud, opposite a mountain 
1,630 feet high, is a bank of islets and rocks, called Lagar- 
tos. It is 1^ miles long, trends NNW. and SSE., and is 
close to the shore. About If miles from these islets is Es- 
meralda rock, covered by 9 feet water. On it there is always 
a heavy swell, if not breakers, at the syzygies. It was dis- 
covered by a Chilian corvette of that name. It lies under 
the following bearings : 

Lagartos bank N. 83° E. 

Mount Mexiilones N. 25° E. 

Mount Moreno S. 38° E. 

The depth 30 yards from Esmeralda rock is 7 J fathoms, 
and in the channel between Esmeralda rock and Lagartos 
islets there are from 8 to 12 fathoms of water. 

point AngamoB, ^he chain of plateau which commences at mount Moreno 

or Leading bluff. ^ 

is terminated 12 miles N. 2° E. of Constitucion harbor by a 
rugged hill called mount Jorgiuo. On the N. coast of this 
promontory is the bay of Herradura de Mexiilones, a narrow 
branch of the sea, which makes in to the eastward but af- 
fords no shelter. 

About 9 miles north of mount Jorgino is point Low, sur- 
rounded by sunken rocks, and 5 miles to the KE. is point 
Angamos, or Leading bluff, a very remarkable promontory 7 
which, with mount Mexiilones a few miles to the southward,. 
is the best landmark for all the ports of the vicinity, but 
especially for Cobija. The bluff of point Angamos is about 
1,000 feet high ; it faces to the K, and as it is entirely cov- 
ered with guano it resembles a cliff of chalk. 
Abtaorock. About J mile NW. of this bluff lies an island which is 

connected with the point by a reef. No dangers were 
known outside of it until the steamer Abtao reported several 
rocks in the vicinity of the large island. The position of 
the one farthest to seaward, called Abtao, given by Captain 
Montt, of the Chilian navy, is 1,620 yards from the nearest 
land, and on the following bearings: 

Point Angamos , S. 55° 51' E. 

Mount Mexiilones S. 06° 51' E* 

Point Baja, (low) S. 34P 09' W. 

Little White island, (distant 700 yards) S. 10° 21' E. 



BAY OF MEXILLONES DE BOLIVIA. 271 

There are 2J fathoms of water over it at low water. To 
clear it give it a berth of 1 mile, and do not change the 
course until point Angamos bears a little to the southward 
of SE. by E. 

There are two other sunken rocks, one 3.30 yards to the 
southward of Abtao rock, covered by 5 fathoms of water, 
and the other SSE. h E., distant 415 yards, with G fathoms 
of water over it. 

Abtao rock is on the line of Little White island and a 
large white patch which will be seen on the slope west of 
the Morro, bearing S. by E., and also on the line of the first 
elevation to the northward of mount Mexillones. The rock 
is not indicated by sea-weed or eddies. 

Mount Mexillones is 2,630 feet high, resembles the frus- Mount MtxiI - 

7 ° ' Jones. 

turn of a cone, and can be distinguished above the sur- 
rounding heights. In clear weather it is a better landmark 
than point Angamos, but the summits of the mountains on 
the coast of Bolivia are very frequently covered by thick 
mist, which renders Leading bluff a better mark, as it can- 
not be mistaken owing to its chalky appearance, it being 
the end of the peninsula, and the land suddenly receding to 
the eastward. The small chain which runs from mount 
Moreno to mount Mexillones is not connected with the prin- 
cipal chain, and has a form resembling that of a wedge. 

In 1862 some important discoveries of guano were made 
around the base of mount Mexillones, and since 1863 two 
vessels have carried from it 2,100 tons of guano to Europe. 
The quality is similar to that of Paquica, the best guano of 
Bolivia, but it is inferior to the guano of the Chinchas. 

The spacious bay of Mexillones de Bolivia opens to the Bay of Mexii- 

. . lones de B jlivia. 

eastward of point Angamos; it is 8 miles wide, and is now 
much frequented, though there is neither wood nor water. 
As it borders the great desert of Atacama, its vicinity is 
perfectly desolate, and it is only the discovery of guano that 
has given it any importance. 

There are two anchorages, both on the W. side of the 
bay; the one for guano vessels is 3 miles from point Anga- 
mos, on a line between two wooden landings, from 200 to 
400 yards from the shore, in from 8 to 13 fathoms of water, 
bottom fine sand ; the other is near the village San Luciano. 
The anchorage is good in from 6 to 12 fathoms, with the 



272 COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

flag-staff bearing S. 9° E., or the landing S. 1S° W., accord- 
ing to the distance of the berth from shore; vessels can, 
however, anchor in any part of the cove; the Lamothe 
Piquet was about f mile distant, in 11 fathoms. 

The bay of Mexillones would be a good harbor if it was 
not for the depth, and the holding-ground being but toler- 
able. There are in many places of 20 fathoms 600 yards from 
the land. Violent gusts from the southward come down 
from the mountains, causing vessels to drag, and it is said 
that the northerly swell is sometimes felt. 

The village of San Luciano is in the SW. angle of the 
bay ; although it sprang up rapidly, it is still a miserable 
settlement of 500 inhabitants. 

Fish and shell-fish are abundant. When distilled water is 
not used, it is brought from mount Moreno, but it is bad. 
Chile has for a long time claimed this as within her bound- 
ary. 

A treaty in 1867 left the guano trade to Bolivia, on the 
condition that one-half of the proceeds were given to Chile; 
recently the boundary between Chile and Bolivia has been 
determined as being near Mexillones bay, mount Mexillones 
being considered in Chile. A railroad is proposed from this 
place to the mines of Caracoles. 
Guaiaguau Gualaguala cove is 12 miles N. 66° E. from point Anga- 
mos ; in it there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, bottom sand 
and broken shells. Vessels here take in copper-ore, which 
is brought to the mole by a tramway. At the end of the 
latter is a shute under which vessels can lie securely. 
Bay of cobija From Gualaguala the coast runs nearly K, and there is 
Puerto la Mar. ^j^g worthy of mention between Mexillones and the bay 
of Cobija, which is 30 miles 28". 24° E. from Leading bluff. 
The harbor is protected from south winds by the small point 
of Cobija, which projects about ^ mile to seaward, and is 
low and rocky but clean. The anchorage is off the town in 
8 to 9 fathoms, E. by Is", from the point; bottom sand and 
broken shells. Four mail-steamers and four coasting-steam- 
ers belonging to the P. S. N. Company, touch here every 
month, making fast to a mooriug-buoy which is in 9J fath- 
oms i mile from the landing. 
Li 3 ht. A light is hoisted every night on the flag-staff on the 

point, visible 3 miles, but it must not be relied on. 



cove 









" : -4 

I 



V 






r-. 
aj 

03 







COBI.JA. 273 

This port, from which wools and ores are shipped, has Description. 
been improved during the last few years ; a quay, barracks, 
and custom-house have been built, and the number of ves- 
sels which visit it seem to be increasing. A mole has also 
been constructed, which renders landing, never very easy, 
somewhat less difficult; even now during a heavy swell 
some skill is necessary to take a boat through the narrow 
channel, formed by the rocks, to the mole. The large water- 
weeds indicate the isolated rocks. The population is about 
2,400, not counting the workmen of the neighboring mines. 
The towns of Potosi, Chuquisaca, Tupiza, and the other 
towns in the south of Bolivia get their imported merchan- 
dise through this port, and as it is the only port of entry of 
the republic of Bolivia, vessels wishing to load or discharge 
in another port must touch here to obtain a license from the 
custom-house. 

The principal articles of export are tin, copper, guano, 
and ingots of silver. 

Good fresh water is scarce, as it never rains. Sometimes 
a small brook formed of the water condensed by the fog- 
runs in a ravine to the northward of the town ; but it is so 
small that a pipe of the size of a rifle-barrel is large enough 
to lead it to the reservoir. Condensed water, of which there 
is always a supply, is generally used. There are some wells, 
but the water is brackish and cannot be kept in barrels. 
Fresh provisions can always be obtained at moderate prices j 
the fruit and vegetables for the inhabitants are brought 
from Chile and Peril. 

The only means of transportation to the interior is by 
mules ; this prevents extension in the exportation of the 
ores, wools, and other produce of the country. The desert 
of Atacama commences on the summit of the chain back 
of the coast, at an elevation of 3,000 feet. 

The desert extends 135 miles to the eastward, and no 
water is found for 90 miles. The mules cross it in three 
days. It takes 14 days to go to Potosi, a distance of 540 
miles ; but Indians on foot, having relays, bring a message 
in 10 days. 

It is high water, full and change, at Cobija, at 10 b ; the rise, Tide. 
4.5 feet. 

18 c 



274 COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

Directions. q q t k e s i p e f point Cobija is a white stone, which 

stands out in relief against the black rocks of the land back 
of it. Generally a Bolivian flag is hoisted on the signal- 
mast when a vessel is approaching. There is no danger in 
entering, as the point is steep-to, and can be passed within 
200 yards. 

The port, however, is not easily recognized. The hills rise 
directly back of the coast, forming an uninterrupted chain 
of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet elevation ; at their base there is 
no mark indicating the position of the town. The white, 
flat rock would be a good mark, were there not another 
very similar a few miles to the northward. There is, fortu- 
nately, a white church on the slope ot the mountain, which 
is an excellent landmark, which can be seen 20 miles in clear 
weather. It is best to make the land a few miles to the 
north or south, and then stand along it until the houses are 
seen. A sailing-vessel should always make the land to the 
southward of the port. 

On coming from the southward, Leading bluff should be 
made ; when steer to make the coast about 9 miles south of 
Cobija, and coast along it until two islands with white sum- 
mits are seen off False point ; they are 1J miles to the 
southward of the port. The church will prevent Cobija 
from being confounded with Gatico. 

copper cove : or Copper cove is a convenient point for loading copper-ore, 

bay of Gatico. L r * e» i i. > 

as vessels can anchor at a short distance from the laud. 
The cove can be entered easily, and is clear of danger to a 
short distance from the shore. The best anchorage has the 
following bearings : Point Cobija, open of the extremity of 
Eocky point, the western of the cove, S. 35° W., and the 
jetty S. 38° E. The depth is 14 to 18 fathoms, bottom fine 
black sand. The anchor must not be dropped in less than 
14 J fathoms. 

The ores are taken in bags, on balsas, to the vessels, 
which are anchored near the coast ; 50 tons can easily be 
shipped in this way in a day. All vessels wishing to load 
here must first obtain a permit at Cobija. 
Directions. There are no good marks for recognizing Copper cove ; 

the upper part of the mountains is always covered with 
mist. The white church of Cobija is, however, a good guide 
during clear weather. When going from Cobija to Copper 



HUANILLO COVE. 



275 



Huanillo cove. 



cove, it is best to steer N. by E., keeping about 800 yards from 
the coast, until the jetty is opened, then round Eocky point 
at about 500 yards, and drop the anchor as before directed. 

When the church of Gobija has been recognized on com- 
ing from the northward, and it bears S. 21° E., steer for it 
until the huts on the south side of Copper cove are seen ; 
then bring the mole and an isolated house to the northward 
in line, bearing S. 58° E., which will lead to the anchorage. 
The huts and mole cannot be seen until 3 or 4 miles from 
the land. A heavy swell enters the cove, and during calms, 
or the light prevailing winds from SW., it is difficult for 
sailing-vessels to get out ; they should not attempt it with- 
out their boats ahead, as they would run a risk of being 
drifted ashore. 

Huanillo cove, which is 2J miles from the rocky and dan- 
gerous cape of the same name, is 6 miles to the northward 
of Copper cove. The anchorage is in 15J fathoms, bottom 
sand and broken shells. The mining works and furnaces 
are near the beach, and the metals are taken to the end of 
the mole by a railway. The former is furnished with a 
crane, under which vessels can always remain with security. 
A large condensing apparatus furnishes water to the works 
and to the people. 

From Huanillo cove the coast trends nearly N. 7° E. Be- Punta B:aaca. 
tween Cobija and Algodon bay, 28 miles, there are some 
small bays with little depth, and generally sandy, with rocky 
points, with mountains from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high back of 
them. About 24 miles from Cobija is Punta Blanca, behind 
which, to the northward, is a cove in which vessels some- 
times load ores. 

Algodon bay is small, with a good depth of water ; it is Aigodoa bay. 
sheltered from the S. by point Algodon, off which there is 
a white islet. The Beagle anchored here J mile from the 
land, in 11 fathoms, bottom of rock, covered with sand and 
broken shells. 

There are three places in this bay in which ores are loaded : 
Bella Vista, Tocopilla, and Duendas ; in their vicinity are 
important mines. Tocopilla, which is iu the south angle of 
the bay, has about S00 inhabitants, and is a place of some 
importance. The principal mines and furnaces belong to an 
English company, which has constructed! a wharf and tram- 



276 COAST OF BOLIVIA. 

way to facilitate the shipping of the metal and the discharge 
of coal and merchandise. Fresh meat can be obtained at a 
moderate price. Although there is a spring of good fresh 
water in the gorge of Mamilla, 7 miles to the northward, 
condensed water is generally used ; there are large condens- 
ers, and they furnish the vicinity. Four coasting-steamers 
of P. 3, N. Company stop here monthly. 

The spring at Mamilla is 1 J miles from the beach : the in- 
habitants generally bring the water in pouches made of the 
skins of the seal calf, which contain from 9 to 10 gallons. 

Duendas is in the northern part of the bay, about 1| 
miles north of Tocopilla. According to captain Gales, of 
the Florence Nightingale, there was a prosperous foundery 
at this place in 1860, the mines only being 1 or 2 miles dis- 
tant. A mole was constructed out to a depth of 12 feet at 
low tide, and, although there is always a heavy swell at full 
and change of the moon, and occasionally at other times, 
vessels can generally load or discharge. The Florence 
Nightingale remained here during the two worst months of 
the year, and, on the average, she did not lose more than 
one day in the week on account of the swell. 

There are two dangerous rocks within the limits of the 
anchorage of Duendas — Duendas rock, in 15 feet water, and 
Nightingale rock, in 6 feet. The latter is marked by a large 
buoy, on which a flag is hoisted when a vessel enters the 
port. Duendas rock is J mile N. 55° W. from the mole. 
The mole is sheltered by a large white rock, with a smaller 
one off its end. The Florence Nightingale anchored just 
to the southward of this latter rock. 

The bay of Algodon can be recognized by a ravine which 
runs down to it, and by that of Mamilla to the northward ; 
it has two passes 4,000 feet high on its N. side. The best 
landmark for a vessel coming from the southward is the 
broad, light strata on the high land, about 1 mile south of 
point Algodon. 
cape san Fran- Cape San Francisco is a promontory about 9 miles N. of 

Cisco, or Paquica. 

Duendas. On its northern slope is a large bed oi guano, 
from which 16,739 tons were taken to Europe in 1862 by 19 
vessels. The anchorage is not good ; there is generally a 
heavy swell and heavy breakers on the beach. The guano 
is placed in bags and hauled to lighters anchored outside 



RIVER LOA. 



277 



of the surf. Landing is difficult, and often dangerous ; ves- 
sels moor, head and stern, about 200 yards from the rocks. 

Point Arena is low, sandy, and bordered by rocks ; it is Point Arena. 
16 miles N. 10° E. from cape Paquica, near a remarkable 
hill ; between these points is a village of fishermen. Ves- 
sels can anchor under point Arena in 9| fathoms, bottom 
tine sand. 

The mouth of the river Loa, which is 12 miles N. 21° E. Loa River 
from point Arena, forms the dividing line on the coast be- 
tween Bolivia and Peru ; it is the eastern point of the west 
coast of South America. The Loa is the principal river on 
this part of the coast ; it runs in a deep gorge and loses 
itself in the sand of the beach ; its water is bad, from run- 
ning through a bed of saltpeter, as also from the surround- 
ing copper hills. Bad as it is, the people residing on the 
banks have no other ; at Chacansi, in the interior, the water 
is tolerably good. During the summer the river is about 15 
feet broad and 1 foot deep, and it runs with considerable 
strength to within a mile of the sea. A chapel on the north 
bank, half a mile from the sea, is the only remains of a once 
populous village. It is visited occasionally from the interior 
for guano, which is abundant. 



COAST OF PERU. 



COAST OF PERU. 



CHAPTER XI. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF TEE COAST OF PERU. 

The entire coast of Peru lies on the Pacific oceau, and is 
comprised between the parallels of 21° 28' and 3° 23' 50" 
south latitude. Its western point, which is the westernmost 
point of South America, is point Parinas ; its easternmost 
point is the gorge of Loa. 

Peru extends on the seacoast in a SSE. and NNW. direc- 
tion 1,500 miles, with a breadth varying between 50 and GOO 
miles. It is divided into 10 departments, with a population 
of about 3 millions, consisting of the descendants of the 
Spaniards, of Indians, negroes, and mixed races. 

The country is naturally divided into three regions : the 
first between the Andes and the sea, the second composed 
of the table lauds of the Andes, and the third situated to 
the eastward of these mountains and forming part of the 
valley of the Amazon. 

The country between the Andes and the sea is very con- 
tracted, and is traversed by torrents. There are vast sandy 

without irri- 
the smallest 

stream, vegetation flourishes. Rain is almost unknown, but 
is replaced by fogs and dews. 

The country is generally healthy, the most common mal- 
adies being bilious and inflammatory diarrhea, eolic, small- 
pox, and hydrophobia. 

The country is rich in mineral and vegetable products. 
The mines of precious metals and quicksilver yielded con- 
siderably even before the Spanish conquest, and if the pro- 
duction has now diminished it is more especially due to the 
high price of labor. The mineral kingdom is represented 
by iron, copper, tin, coal, granite, and porphyry, to which 
must be added iodine, which is drawn from the mother- 



plains called arenales, which are barren and 
gation ; but if a valley is watered by even 



Limits. 



General aspect. 



Products. 



282 COAST OF PERU. 

water of saltpeter, nitrate of soda, borate of lime, and sul- 
phate of alumina; which ingredients, found in the depart- 
ment of Tarapaca, have been worked only during the last 
twenty-five years, and have given this department consid- 
siderable importance. The nitrate of soda is found between 
the two chains of the Cordillera around the lake of Titicaca 
in quantities sufficient to supply the demands of one-half the 
world. Its origin has been accounted for in two ways : the 
first is that immense deposits of guano covered the borders 
of the lake during an antediluvian period and were gradu- 
ally changed into saltpeter ; the other theory is that when 
the ground rose the water flowed to the Pacific and disclosed 
the bottoms of the lakes which covered the plateaux in for- 
mer times. The exportation of this product has rapidly 
increased. 

The borate of lime is found in the western part, opposite 
the Cordillera of the Pampa de Tamarugal, under a bed of 
salt and hard earth from 1 to 3 feet thick, in fine siliceous 
sand ; like the guano, it is a monopoly of the Peruvian gov- 
ernment. 

The mineral kingdom is also represented by petroleum, 
which was found in the department of Piura in the province 
of Ayavaca, a little to the southward of Tumbez and quite 
near the sea. 

Although there is m uch to be desired in the culture of the 
soil, labor is always largely repaid where the country is even 
slightly watered. In the hot region sugar, rice, tobacco, 
yams, olives, sweet potatoes, and cocoa-nuts are produced; 
in the colder climate grapes, wheat, and potatoes. Corn is, 
and was even during the time of the Incas, the principal 
nourishment of the inhabitants. Cotton grows well, and is 
hardly inferior to that of Georgia or Egypt. Clover reaches 
a height of 3 feet, and is cut five times in a year. Finally, 
there are many tropical fruits and vegetables. 

Probably the most important of all the agricultural prod- 
ucts of Pern is the quinquina tree, the bark of which is 
gathered, dried, and sent to the ports for exportation. 

There are a few deer, but the animals from which hides 
and wool are obtained, as the llama, alpaca, guanaco, vicuna, 
are numerous, as are also European animals which have be- 
come acclimated to Peru. 



PRODUCTS. 



2S3 



Guano is found on many parts of the coast, especially on Guano, 
the southern portion, and all the islands along the coast are 
more or less covered with it. When the foreign trade in 
guano commenced it is estimated that the stock was in the 
vicinity of thirty million tons. 

The Peruvian government monopolized the trade, and at 
first only opened the Chincha islands to foreign commerce; 
a few years since it opened the Guanape and the Macavi, 
and later the Ballesta islands. The Chincha islands are ex- 
hausted, and the Guanape and Macavi will soon be. The 
Lobos, which were not opened in 1871, and the deposits 
along the coasts are all that remain ; but on the southern 
coast it is computed that about eight million tons remain. 
At first the government showed great negligence in the 
working of this article, so that at least one-seventh or eighth 
was washed away and lost. Later it has been more careful 
of these deposits, which formed one of its best sources of 
revenue. 

The quality of this guano is not the same everywhere; 
that of the southern deposits is the best, as it contains the 
most ammonia, which is due to the absence of rains. The 
guano of the Chinchas is therefore much better than that of 
Guanape, that of Pabellon de Pica alone compares with that 
of the Chinchas, but that is reserved for the agriculture of 
the country. That of Lobos is of inferior quality. 

The coast is generally straight and precipitous, and is 
beaten, especially iu winter, by a heavy SW. to SSW. swell. 
There are but few coves in which small vessels or boats can 
find shelter from the waves. 

In many places ships boats 1 cannot be used, and have to 
be replaced by those of the country — balsas, caballitos, etc. 

The swell is less heavy in the summer and the communi- 
cation with the shore therefore easier ; ten or fifteen miles 
to seaward this swell is not experienced. The lines of 
cliffs are sometimes broken by sand -beaches of great extent, 
especially to the northward, but the surf is equally violent. 

Immediately back of the coast is the Cordillera of the 
Andes ; its proximity to the coast and its elevation change 
all the water-courses into torrents. 

The rivers are generally full in the summer months, and 
often overflow in February and March ; they fall in the 



Coast. 



284 COAST OF PERU. 

winter months, and are nearly dry during August and Sep- 
tember. As it seldom if ever rains, it is difficult for the in- 
habitants and for vessels to procure fresh water. None is 
found within a radius of 40 miles of Iquique. The wells on 
the shore often give brackish water ; generally, nearly all 
the water used is distilled, and consequently expensive. 
winds. The peculiar atmospheric and hydrographic properties of 

the coast of Peru are worthy the attention of the navigator. 
There is no other place in the world where the conditions 
of the climate are so agreeable and uniform. Winds from 
SSW. to ESE., blow regularly during the day and night, 
known as the terral, or land-wind, and the virazon, or sea- 
breeze, according as they are more to the eastward or to the 
southward ; all winds from the SE. to ESE. are called the 
terral, those from SE. to SSW. or from seaward the virazon. 
The virazon sets in about 10 or 11 a.m. and blows till sunset, 
when it dies out and the breeze gradually comes from the 
land; it is always cool, damp and lighter than the virazon, 
and it lasts until morning. 

The virazon is lighter in proportion as it comes up later, 
or as it blows more directly from seaward • it then dies out 
earlier. The land and sea breeze are often separated by an 
interval of calm. When blowing from SE. to SSE. these 
winds acquire the greatest force and steadiness, but they 
never exceed a very fresh breeze. 

The coast of Peril is never visited by storms or hurricanes. 
The barometric variation is insignificant ; there is no thun- 
der or lightning; the rains which take place from June to 
August are so inconsiderable that they hardly deserve the 
name of showers. When sailing a short distance from the 
coast, the sky and horizon have often an appearance so 
dark and threatening as to alarm those who do not know 
the want of significance of such signs in these latitudes ; 
the most violent squalls under these circumstances do not 
necessitate taking in the top-sails or courses. When the 
sea-breeze is only a little fresh it always scatters these dark 
mists. It is very seldom that more than one reef has to be 
taken in the top-sails, and that only when to the south of 
the 16th parallel, more than 100 miles from the coast, or in 
the vicinity of cape Blanco, or point Nazca. 

To the northward of Oallao the wind can be more relied 



WINDS. 285 

on; the sea-breeze is more regular and of greater force than 
farther south. 

It must also be meutioued that though the winds are 
always moderate, very violent gusts often sweep down the 
mountains, even after the sea-breeze has set in ; it is always 
best to reduce sail before running into any of the small 
anchorages. 

Fresh winds from X. to W. occur during the morning 
from April to August, at a distance of 3 to 4 miles from the 
land, but they very seldom last during an entire day, and 
usually not more than 5 or C> hours: at times these winds 
extend farther to seaward. 

Winds from S. to SSE. are felt at various distances from 
the shore : they blow with more regularity than the virazon 
and terral. Off Arica they extend 90 to 120 miles from the 
land, and they get nearer to the shore as the distance from 
the equator is decreased ; in the latitude of Lima they are 
30 to 3G miles from the land. Farther to the northward 
they are at about the same distance. To the southward of 
Arica the same takes place, with the difference that these 
winds become less regular as the line of variable winds is 
approached. The winds increase in force as the distance 
from the shore is increased. At first it will be noticed that 
the sea-breeze lasts longer; then that the trend of the 
coast has less influence on the direction of the wind ; later, 
again, that it is stronger during the night than during the 
day; and, finally, the distance where it has its greatest 
force is arrived at; this distance probably varies in the 
same proportion as the belt of variable winds which is 
along the coast, as the distance is the greatest off Arica, 
and diminishes as the width of the belt of variable winds, 
in proportion to the distance north or south of this port. 
It appears, however, that the chain of high mountains, 
which extends the whole length of the coast of Perii, inter- 
cepts the prevailing winds, and that its influence is felt at 
a great distance, as the prevailing winds, with a constant 
force and direction, are only found 520 miles from the 
coast. The winds wiiich blow from the S. and E. within 
this limit are generally very variable in both force and 
direction. 



286 

Calms. 



Fogs. 



Dew. 



Tide*. 



Currents. 



COAST OF PERU. 

Calms are very frequent on the coast of Peru, especially 
from November to March. Near the land and in the har- 
bors it is generally calm until 10 or 11 a. m., at which time, 
as before stated, the virazon sets in. Sometimes, however, 
the calms last for two or three consecutive days in these 
months. 

The zone comprised between Ohala bead and the port of 
iquique is most subject to them, and there they are of the 
longest duration. 

Fogs are common, from December to the beginning of 
May, along the entire coast, from Chala head to point Agu- 
ja. They are often so dense that nothing can be distin- 
guished at a ship's length. It is therefore necessary to 
adopt all precautionary measures known to navigators when 
sailing along the shore or off a harbor ; to sound frequently, 
and to listen for the sound of the surf on the beach ; more 
especially on the coast comprised between Gaaiiape aud 
Lambayeque, as here the water is shoal, the coast danger- 
ous, and the noise of the breakers can be heard from 6 to 8 
miles from the shore. It often happens that these fogs last 
for 24 to 36 hours. 

The fogs are less dense on the northern coast of Peru. 
In the province of Piura (Paita) it rains occasionally. 

The dews at night in this part of Pen! and its vicinity 
are noted; they are caused by the land-winds which sweep 
along the perpetual snows of the Andes. 

The action of the tide is feeble along the whole coast, the 
rise and fall being at no place more than 7 feet. 

A general current, known under the name of the Hum- 
boldt current, runs along the coast of Peru, leaving it at 
cape Blanco, to the northward of Paita. It follows the 
general direction of the coast ; being N. between Loa and 
Arica, it then turns to the WNW., and from Pisco NW. 
From cape Blanco it runs to the Galapagos islands, to the 
WW., and then west. Its breadth varies on leaving the 
coast between 120 and 180 miles, but it increases to 500 
when off the Galapagos islands. 

This current has some anomalies; at certain periods a 
feeble current to the southward is experienced, but it is 
very irregular, and of short duration, and close to the coast ; 
the season of these cannot be determined. Fitz Ray often 



CURRENTS. 287 

observed these southerly currents immediately before or 
during north winds, but this is not always the case, and no 
general rule can be deduced. These irregular currents may 
have some relation with the causes which produce remark- 
able eddies in the water in the vicinity of the Galapagos 
islands. 

The Humboldt is a cold current ; its waters are of a louver 
temperature than those surrounding it. The temperature 
increases, however, in going to the north ; on the parallel 
of Coquimbo it is 57° Fahrenheit ; on that of Cobija, 64° ; of 
Arica, 64°.6; of Pisco, 66°; of Lima, 65°.3; of Trujillo, 
G9° ; and finally, on that of cape Blanco, 74°.3. A few hours 
after leaving this current, to the north of cape Blanco, the 
temperature is 77°.9. 

The velocity of this current is variable; the minimum 
along the coast observed by the La Bonite was 3 miles in 
24 hours; that observed by the Venus was 6 miles; the 
maximum observed by these vessels was 26 miles. Fitz 
Roy speaks of 50 miles between Paita and the Galapagos, 
where it has its greatest strength. Humboldt gives 15 miles 
a day. The coasters, who navigate entirely by dead-reck- 
oning, always add 5 miles to their westing to obtain the 
longitude. 

From these results it can be concluded that the force of 
the current is at least ^ mile per hour in a NW. direction ; 
the general average is 10 miles per day. When no obser- 
vations have been taken on account of fog, it is prudent to 
take this into consideration. 

The four seasons follow each other in this part of the Tem P eratare - 
globe without auy considerable change in the temperature. 
The winter hardly deserves the name ; it cannot ever be 
said that it is really cold. The air is sometimes cool and 
damp, and the sky is low and charged with thick fog; then 
a European needs his cloth clothes. The summer is more 
sensibly felt; it is generally warm from the morning until 
2 or 3 p. m. The thermometer then varies between 69°.S 
and 77°.9 in the shade, on board ship. The nights are cool 
and agreeable. The spring and fall pass unnoticed. In 
general the temperature is equable the year round. 

The coast of Peru, as well as that of Chile, Bolivia, Ecna- Rising of the 
dor, and New Granada, shows evident signs of rising. The 



28S COAST OF PERU. 

western part of the desert of Atacama is covered with shells 
and saline matter, which seem to have come from the ocean 
during a comparatively recent period. The sea has retired 
from Iquique as well as from Oobija, Coquimbo, and other 
places whose shores are washed by the Pacific. At Arica 
it is estimated that the sea has receded 475 feet duriug the 
last forty years, necessitating the extension of the landings. 
There is no doubt that the island of San Lorenzo and perhaps 
the neighboring coasts have been raised 82 feet within the 
period of the known history of this country. It appears, how- 
ever, that the ground on which the city of Oallao is built has 
fallen, as the site of the old town is partly under water. 
This is probably local, and does not affect the general rising 
of the coast, as farther to the northward, at Colon, Santa 
Martha, and in many places on the coast of New Granada, 
the land is visibly higher than when first visited by Euro- 
peans. 
Earthquakes. The coast of Peru is subject to frequent earthquakes, 
though some of them are light and hardly felt on ship-board ; 
others have been fearful, especially the memorable earth- 
quake of October 28, 1746, and of August 13, 1858. At the 
former date, at 10 p. m., many houses and public buildings 
were destroyed ; the sea receded from its ordinary bed in 
the bay of Callao, and half an hour afterward the bay was 
filled again, the water coming in with extraordinary velocity 
from the !NW. ; it inundated the city, which was then nearer 
the point, drowned the inhabitants, and swept everything 
before it for J mile to the interior. The four largest vessels 
which were anchored in the bay broke from their anchors, 
and two were thrown high and dry above the presidio to 
the SE. ; another was thrown in the plaza, and a third, 
heavily loaded with wheat, on the shore. One of the former 
was the Spanish frigate San Femin, carrying 30 guns. The 
waves tore down all walls, houses, and churches, and hardly 
any traces of the brick floors of the latter could be found. 
It threw 24-pounder guns, which were in battery, outside of 
the walls, and scattered guns of other calibers around the 
platform. According to reliable statements, at least 5,000 
people perished and only 30 survived. 

The earthquake of August 13, the memory of which is 
still fresh, passed with more or less force over all the coast 



EARTHQUAKES. 289 

of Peru comprised between Iquique and Pacasmayo ; it was 
also slightly felt in some of the ports of Chile and to the 
northward as far as California, and caused a general dis- 
turbance in the currents and forces of the tides. 

Arica was the center of this phenomenon ; its destructive 
effects were formidable and complete, and in a few hours 
this industrious and flourishing town disappeared altogether. 
At 5 p. m. its buildings were destroyed by the shock, and 
at 7 the ruins were inundated, and the traces of their old 
position almost obliterated ; the waters receded several 
times in a few minutes, exactly as in Callao during the last 
century. 

The vessels at anchor in the bay were thrown on the 
beach after having been for a time the playthings of the 
currents and eddies ; some vessels were thrown as far as 
550 yards inland and completely destroyed. Among them 
was the United States gunboat Wateree, the United States 
store-ship Fredonia, the Peruvian corvette America, the 
French brig Donrregalan, the English bark Chanaral, and 
the Central American bark Eosa Rivera, and all the coasters 
in the port. 

At Iquique the sea inundated the richest part of the 
city and destroyed all the buildings near the shore, includ- 
ing the custom-house with all the merchandise it contained, 
and all the distilleries of fresh water by which the city was 
supplied. Most of the vessels rode it out well, but some 
dragged for long distances, and they were constantly foul- 
ing each other. An English bark which was loading salt- 
peter in Junin cove, was thrown on the beach and totally 
lost. The town of Pisagua and Mejillones was destroyed; 
of the three vessels which were at anchor at Mejillones one 
was destroyed and the others much injured by colliding. 

At Ilo the sea ran up the gorge for J mile, tearing down 
before it all the olive trees and houses of the village, and 
breaking in pieces a schooner which was anchored at 
Pacocha, where the sea ran up the beach for more than 450 
yards ; Tambo, Mollendo, Quilca, Camana, and Ocoiia, as 
also all the valleys of this province which were near the sea, 
experienced similar inundations. 

The towns of Arequipa and Moquegua, and the surround- 
19 c 



290 COAST OF PERU. 

ing villages, were almost entirely destroyed by this earth- 
quake. 

The English steamer Santiago, which was anchored at 
Chala, having steam up, was saved by going to sea. The 
inundation destroyed the lower rows of houses of that port. 
The shock was also felt at the same hour at Callao, but with 
much less intensity than farther south. Its duration was 
four minutes ; the ground had a prolonged undulating mo- 
tion, like a slight wave on the water, accompanied by a slight 
noise. 

In the bay of Callao very irregular and almost gyratory 
currents were felt from eight o'clock in the evening ; the sea 
rose with great rapidity 7 or 8 feet, and in some places even 
10 and 12 feet, above its ordinary level, and fell again in the 
same proportion, or even lower, all in the space of a few 
minutes, returning to its ordinary condition a little after 
one o ; clock in the morning. No damage was done except- 
ing to vessels anchored too close together. The same 
phenomenon was observed in the inlets and coves as far 
north as Pacasmayo. 

The wind on that day had been, along the whole coast, 
the usual light SSB. to SE. wind. The sea was calm, and 
the weather clear and fine. The barometer showed no 
remarkable change, and the thermometer stood at its usual 
height. No sign or indication gave the least warning. It 
is estimated that in all Peru 4,000 persons perished, and 74 
millions of dollars of property was destroyed, 
passages. The passages made along the coasts of Peru are dis- 

tinguished as down and up — bajada y subida. The down 
passages are those from southern ports to the N. This 
name is given to them as the prevailing winds blow from S. 
to ESE., and the coast trends from S. to N. and SE. to 
NW. ; vessels sailing to the northward have a free wind. 
In making these passages, the following rules should be 
observed: 1st. Always make a direct course when it is 
possible. 2d. Sail along the coast at a distance not less 
6 nor more thau 15 miles from land. 3d. The above pre- 
caution is indispensable, as fogs are frequent, not only to 
prevent accidents, but to make the port of destination with 
ease. 4th. As many days pass without being able to take 
observations, and inasmuch as the unequal currents cause 



COASTING. - 291 

a loss of confidence in the dead-reckoning, it is necessary 
to sail in this manner, as by so doing points on the coast 
easy to recognize are always in view ; for, as will be seen in 
their description, they are numerous and not easily mistaken. 
Thus it is easy to ascertain with certainty the position of 
the ship. 

The passages from ports north to those south are made 
in a very different manner. Owing to the geographical con- 
figuration of the coast and the winds which prevail, in 
going from a northern to a southern port the direct course 
cannot be made. 

Under the head of " Winds v it was stated that day and 
night they blow between SS W. and ESE. ; following these 
changes, it will be seen that each determines the tack on 
which the vessel should sail. Therefore, at the commence- 
ment of the virazon, or when the wind is, for instance, SE. 
by S., take the starboard tack, or stand toward the land, 
and keep it as long as possible, or until the wind comes 
from SE. by E., which is off the land. Then tack and stand 
off the land ; keep on this tack, unless the ship falls off 
from SW. by S. If far from land, however, it is well to go 
about before. 

By working in this manner the coasters, which are gene- 
rally poor vessels, make their passages more speedily. 
They usually make two tacks in a day; one inshore, 
which begins before noon, and the other off-shore, which is 
taken at eight or nine o'clock at night. This is the method 
generally adopted ; but a commander of a ship must take 
advantage of every alteration in the wind, and tack accord- 
ingly. In general, a day's work may be considered good 
when progress has been made not only toward the south 
but also toward the east, or at least without getting to the 
west. It is a bad day's work to gain southing without 
lessening the longitude; and this is because the greater the 
distance between the ship aud the coast the greater is the 
change in the winds, which come from the east, so that the 
sea-breeze is even lost, and therefore it becomes more diffi- 
cult to make the land. To avoid these inconveniences, a 
tack should be made for several hours inshore, even if the 
ship does not head better than E. by N. or ENE. ; the navi- 
gator must not be deceived by heading well to the south. 



292 COAST OF PERU. 

This is the mode of navigating along the coast suggested 
by experience, and which has been followed many years by 
those engaged in the coasting- trade. It must be noted that 
in the passage up it is not well to approach the land within 
less than 5 or 6 miles, as nearer the current is stronger and 
the calms of longer duration. This has been often proved. 
Paita to cauao. rp iii us trate the foregoing explanations, which may serve 
as a guide to navigators, a description is given of two pas- 
sages, one from Paita to Oallao, and the other from Callao 
to Arica. The best hour for leaving Paita, as well as all 
other northern ports, is at night; but the custom-house 
regulations forbid sailing after sunset. Starting at the 
close of the day, care must be taken to hug the points to 
windward at a safe distance. On leaving the bay, the 
coast trends to the SE., and as at this time of day the wind 
is SSE. or S., it will be necessary to keep on the port-tack 
to gain as much to windward as possible. In this way, 
night finds the ship near the coast ; and in this position she 
gets the benefit of the land-breeze, which is felt between 
eight and ten o'clock, and she contiuues all night on the 
same tack. The laud-breeze is very free in the vicinity of 
Paita, and to such an extent that it often gives one a free 
course to S. by E. When fche wind begins to change to the 
S., which will be before noon, tack in-shore. In this man- 
ner keep on until Aguja point is rounded, making short 
tacks, if necessary, on account of being near land. On 
arriving at the latitude of the Lobos de Afuera island, great 
care must be taken to gain more easting and southing until 
within the meridian of the island. 

The part of the coast where the longest and freshest sea- 
breezes are experienced is that between Cape Blanco and 
Lobos de Afuera - u a free course is often obtained to ESE. 
and SE. by E. 

Between the meridian of the islands of Lobos de Afuera 
and that of 80° longitude a vessel may sail 1J or 2° south- 
wardly, and then be very careful that on reaching the par- 
allel of 11° latitude she is not beyond the 79° of longitude; 
then work on between this meridian and that of 78° longitude 
to the parallel of 12° latitude, crossing which she will be to 
windward of the Hormigas rocks. A good lookout should 
be kept for these rocks, as they are low and scattered over 



COASTING. 293 

a circuit of two miles. They are readily recognized, as the 
sea which sets upon them breaks heavily, aud the sound of 
the breakers can be heard at a great distance. 

It is safest to pass to windward of the Hormigas from 3 
to 5 miles ; in this manner the navigator may be sure that 
at the commencement of the sea-breeze he will be able to 
steer for the head of the island of San Lorenzo. This island 
need cause no fear, not even when one is standing in at 
night, as its shadow is very perceptible, even in dark nights ; 
in clear weather the light-house on the northwest head will 
be seen. 

In passages from Callao to the ports of Iquique, Arica, Jffij£ t t0 Iqul " 
and Islay, work inshore as far as Chala Morro, as within 
that distance a fresh wind is almost always experienced, 
especially near the San Gallan, the Infiernillos, and Xazca 
point; the last named is the most windy place on the Peru- 
vian coast. Therefore, in this vicinity the tacks should be 
short and very close to the land, in order to have the benefit 
of the fresh sea-breeze, and at nightfall be near the coast 
to take advantage of the land-breeze, which rarely fails. 

Between San Lorenzo and San Gallan islands every care 
should be taken not to get embayed at Asia island or Cerro- 
Azul, as it would be very difficult to work out on account 
of the calms and counter-currents. The surest way is not 
to pass toward the land of a line drawn from San Lorenzo 
island to the North Chincha island. 

From Chala Morro to the southward the same occurs, and 
the ship's course should not be less than thirty nor over one 
hundred miles from the coast, as beyond that distance the 
winds may set from ESE. orE., in which case it would be 
difficult to again make land. 

When on the parallel of the port of destination every care 
should be taken to near the coast without losing in latitude, 
for it is difficult to gain it near the land. 

By standing for the coast some miles to windward the ship 
will have the advantage of fetching her port, even when the 
weather is calm, as it may be done with the aid of the cur- 
rent and the light variable winds. 

If the passage is only from Callao to Pisco or to the Chin- 
cha islands, an offing of twenty- five to forty miles should be 
made until southwest from Cerro-Azul, when work inshore, 



294 COAST OF PERU. 

even if it be to within 6 miles ; for from that locality to 
Pisco light variable winds from the north are always expe- 
rienced in the morning, veering round gradually to west and 
south, with which much progress may be made. It fre- 
quently happens that although a vessel may be at break of 
day in front of Oerro-Azul in a calm, she succeeds in anchor- 
ing at Pisco in the afternoon. On this part of the coast the 
current runs with considerable strength to the WNW. 

Above all, the special cautions given for each port through- 
out this book should be kept in mind. 

In the passages to Iquique, Arica. and Islay from ports 
north of Oallao, beginning with Huacho, another route 
should be followed, the off-shore, as the extent of coast to 
be passed is comparatively too great for the above-described 
course to prove advantageous. It has been observed that, 
notwithstanding the greater distance sailed, the off-shore 
passages are the shortest. The course then to be pursued 
is, on leaving any of the northern ports, keep the port-tack, 
on which the ship's head comes more to the south as the 
longitude and latitude increase, coming up to S. by E. on 
the parallel of 20°. Continue on this tack until the variable 
winds, generally met with south of the tropic, are gained, 
which may obviate the necessity of going, which is often 
the case, as far as 28° or 30°. With the variable winds 
keep on an easterly course until sure of making a direct 
course with the prevailing winds from S. to ESE., which 
will be met with more to the northward ; then steer in for 
the coast, several miles to windward of, the port of destina- 
tion. 

The experience of many captains gives preference to the 
off-shore route in going from ports north of Callao to those 
south. Following these instructions in different months of 
the year, two passages were made from Lambayeque to 
Arica, one in twenty-seven and the other in thirty-one days ; 
and a third from Pacasmayo to Iquique in twenty-one days. 
While making these passages, it happened that two vessels 
left Lambayeque together and preferred the in-shore route ; 
one was forty-eight days in going to Islay and the other 
seventy to Arica. 

It should be remembered that from Arica to Coles point 



COASTING. 295 

the current sets toward the land, and that it is therefore 
dangerous to get too near the coast. 

[t happens in this route, that when the winds south of the 
tropic change they frequently do so from E. to X., and then 
to W., where, or at SW., they remain fixed; this circum- 
stance is noted that the proper precautions may be taken. 
It also happens, when sailing with a light wind from X. or 
NE., that it changes violently to the SW. or S.. with heavy 
squalls. 

From a port of Peru to Chile a vessel when clear of the 
port should steer between south and west, keeping within 6£ 
to 7 points of the wiud, and endeavor not to brace up too 
sharp, in order to make the best possible progress. This is 
advisable, as the wind becomes free as the ship separates 
herself from the coast going south. 

Many are in the habit of trimming with a fore-topmast stud- 
ding sail, and steering by it ; and this is advisable. Keep 
on until in the variable winds which are generally met south 
of the tropic, between it and the parallels of 28° or 30° ; 
these winds always blow strong from the SW., S., or NW., 
and are accompanied by rain-squalls. With them the ship 
may continue her course to the S. and E., out of sight of 
land till on the parallel of the port of destination, or, in the 
summer season, a little to the south ; when running in for 
the port, the coast should be made to windward. Should 
the vessels be bound to Valparaiso alone, on meeting the 
variable winds steer for the island of Juan Fernandez; 
passing in sight of it on the north, keep to the east; if in 
summer, until point Curaumilla is recognized but in winter 
work for the port itself, and if possible do not enter if when 
standing in-shore the wind is northerly and the barometer 
falling, for in such case the anchorage is dangerous, and it 
is preferable to lie to outside until the wind goes to the west, 
when the vessel may enter without risk. 

The winter months on the Chilian coast are from May to 
August, during which season the northers prevail. Heavy 
storms from that direction and from the NW. occur and 
sudden changes to the SW. with terrible gusts of hail, espe- 
cially south of the parallel of 33°. The latter is the most 
dangerous because the heavy seas occasion disasters among 
the shipping. 



296 COAST OF PERU. 

During the rest of the year the prevailing winds are from 
SE. to SW., and strong southerly winds are frequent with 
perfectly clear weather. Storms from these points are also 
experienced, particularly on the coast of Chile. The fogs 
on this part of the coast are almost constant, and the rains 
extend through nine months of the year.* 

*For routes in the Pacific Ocean see publications Nos. 5 and 38 of the 
United States Hydrographic Office. 



CHAPTER XII. 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 
Variation from 12° 03' to 10° 13' easterly in 1876, increasing abont 1' annually. 

The gorge of the Loa is the southern limit of Peru; it is L( £ or s e of the 
in latitude 21° 28' south, and is formed of cliffs of high and 
barren hills, which from the coast extend almost parallel to 
each other to the interior, for a short distance, and termin- 
ate in a gloomy-looking mountain ; there are guano-beds at 
several points. 

The Loa is but a rivulet running through the bottom of River Loa. 
the gorge just described, which containing niter renders its 
waters bitter and unhealthy ; it filters through the sand at 
the beach, not having enough force to open a channel. 
Tolerably good water can be obtained in the interior, at 
Chacansi. 

The low and sandy beach forms Loa cove in front of the Lo» cove, 
gorge. Vessels can anchor in from 7 to 10 fathoms, about 
J mile from the land. The best landing is on the beach to 
the southward; at a short distance there are some fisher- 
men's huts and an abandoned church. The place is wholly 
destitute of resources. 

Fitz Roy mentions an anchorage a little farther to sea- 
ward, in from 8 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, \ mile from 
the land, the chapel bearing ]ST. 20° E. This cove can be 
easily recognized from seaward ; it is in the deepest part of 
the bay, formed by point Lobo to the northward and point 
Arena to the southward; the mountains to the southward 
are nearly of equal height, while those to the northward are 
higher and irregular. 

The coast remains high and continues its northerly direc- n^ 86 p ° int 
tion, projecting to the westward, for 5 miles, where it forms 
false point Chipana, which is clean; to leeward of it is a 
very regular cove, with anchorage in 6 to 8f fathoms, very 
near the land. It is not inhabited. 

Landing is easier under the shelter of the point, near its 
extremity, than in the bay of Chipana, although there is a 
good deal of sea at the syzygies. 



298 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZOA. 



Chipana point 



Chipana bay. 



Lob 

islets. 



Chipana point is to the NE. of Chipana cove j off it there 
are some scattered rocks on which the sea always breaks, 
the highest being about ^ mile to the northward; they must 
be passed to leeward. 

Chipana bay is to the eastward of Chipana point. The 
beach is of sand, and the depth from 8f to 11 fathoms about 
600 yards from the land. There are a few inhabitants, but 
no resources. 

Running for this point, the land should be made in the 
latitude of the Loa, where a double white patch will be seen 
on a hill near the shore, and a similar one a little farther to 
the northward ; these marks, which are visible 6 to 8 miles, 
being made out, the course can be shaped for False point, 
where is the anchorage in 7 fathoms, sand and broken shells, 
sheltered by low, level ground. There is no danger in en- 
tering ; although the land is low, it may be approached 
within J mile in from 10 to 6 fathoms. The anchorage in- 
side the long kelp-covered reef, which extends 800 yards to 
the northwestward of the north point of the cove, might 
perhaps be preferred, but the landing there is not so good. 

The high and slightly projecting point of Huanillo is 
about 6£ miles to the north. There is here an abundant 
deposit of guano, but the constant swell makes it very dan- 
gerous to reach it. It can, however, be shipped on days 
when the sea is quiet by anchoring close to the point, in a 
depth of from 9 to 12 fathoms. It is necessary to have very 
good ground-tackle, else the vessel will be in great danger. 
In this manner a vessel was loaded in 1858. There are no 
permanent inhabitants. 

Chomache point, 5 miles to the northward of Huanillo 
point, is terminated by several rocks and small islets, mak- 
ing out about 1 mile to the westward, over which the sea 
always breaks. The coast to the northward of the point 
forms Chomache bay, in which there is anchorage in 9 to 12 
fathoms, very near the land. There are here some deposits 
of guano ; the locality is uninhabited. 
Pajaros The two small islets of Los Pajaros are 5 miles to the 
northward and about £ mile from the coast. They are clean 
and of average height; their white color is due to the guano 
with which they are covered. They are the rendezvous of 
birds and seal. 



Huanillo point. 



Chomaeh* point 
and bay. 



X 






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1 

NO 



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;\ls;| 



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. ' *' *>:'|. 



POINT LOBOS— PABELLON DE PICA. 299 

Poiut Lobos or Blanca is 1J miles north of these islands. B £££ Lob08 or 
It is formed by high mountains, which, directed from the 
interior toward the coast, unite aud descend to the sea; its 
surface is full of white aud yellowish patches, by which it 
can easily be recognized. It is also the southern limit of 
the large cove or small gulf which opens to the northward 
and eastward, aud contains many remarkable points, which 
will be hereafter described. 

Point Lobos or Blanca is important on account of the 
large guano deposits which are on it, as its quality differs 
little from that of the Chincha. All the guano which is 
found here is covered by a thick crust of material which the 
natives call Caliche;* it has to be broken with picks in order 
to uncover the guano, after which it is easily removed. 

Arouud the poiut, and to leeward of it, is the anchorage, 
opposite some houses on the shore ; there are from 9 to 13 
fathoms close to the rocks. There is another good anchor- 
age to the eastward of a small islet. The breakers gener- 
ally render lauding very inconvenient; but they are not so 
heavy as on other points of the coast, as the point offers 
some protection. 

Small vessels generally take the guano for the use of the 
country. Loading is easy during fiue weather, as boats can 
run alongside of the rocks in several places. There are no 
resources whatever, and the few inhabitants are occupied 
in loading vessels. 

The gorge of Pica, opens 2 miles to the northward; it is Gorge of pica, 
formed by very high mouutaius, which run into the interior 
so close together as not even to form a valley ; some rocks 
make out from the coast to the northward of the gorge; sev- 
eral of these have a whitish color from the guano which 
covers them ; from a distance they look like vessels under 
sail. 

The Pabellon de Pica is about 5 miles from the gorge, at pi ^ a abellon de 
the head and almost in the center of the bay ; it is a most 
remarkable point, 1,100 feet high ; a sort of promontory, 
with a semicircular base, which runs into the sea; it con- 
trasts strongly with the surrounding hills, as they are brown, 
naked, and burnt by the sun ; its shape is that of a tent, to 

* The Caliche is impure nitrate of soda, or common salt, mixed with 
other substances. 



300 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

which probably it owes its name ; its surface is covered with 
yellow and white patches. The mountains of Oarrasco to 
the eastward are 5,516 feet high. 

The Pabellon de Pica contains a large deposit of guano, 
though large quantities have beeu taken from it from time 
immemorial. 

The best anchorage for loadiug is opposite and to the 
westward of the Pabellon ; there are from 12 to 14 fathoms 
within 300 or 400 yards of the shore. Shipping is easy by 
means of a "messenger" from the rocks to the sea; small 
boats can receive the bags directly from above. 
cove of Pabei- Pabellon cove, having some few houses on its shores, is 

Ion. ' ° ' 

to the northward of the hill; it is the best landing place, as 
boats can run alongside of the rocks. The vessels which 
load guano anchor in the cove in from 9 to 10 fathoms, about 
400 yards from the shore. The inhabitants are fishermen: 
they load the guano in the small boats. 

The exportation of this guano, as also that of point Lo- 
bos, is prohibited. That which is used in the country must 
be taken by vessels of the country having a license from the 
custom-houses of Iquique, Arica, or Islay. 
Pataehe point. From the Pabellon de Pica the coast runs N. for some 
miles, afterwards NW., and then W., terminating in Pataehe 
point, which, formed of low, projecting hillocks, ends in two 
small islets. This point and Lobos, 14J miles apart, form 
the extremities of the cove just described. 

Large patches of guano are found on several parts of the 
intermediate coast. 

In this indentation the depth does not exceed 50 fathoms; 
to the northward of point Pataehe there is good anchorage 
in from 7 to 10 fathoms, near the land. 
Cove and islets About 4J miles to the northward are the three small islets 
of Patillos, which are very white, being covered by a thin 
bed of guano, and can be seen from a great distance ; they 
are only separated from the land a few hundred yards. To 
• leeward of them is the cove of Patillos, having a depth of 
from 7 to 10 fathoms, J mile from the shore. On the beach 
are several store-houses, painted white, which formerly con- 
tained saltpeter, which was loaded in the cove; they are 
now abandoned. 






LENA COVE — GRUESO POINT. 301 

The small point of Yapes is 2£ miles N. of Patillos islets; of C Ya e eg and i8lets 
it is high and projects but little. At a short distance are 
some high rocks, which form the group called Yapes. To 
the NW. of the point is a small cove of the same name, with 
a depth of from 7 to 10 fathoms, 400 yards to leeward of 
the islands. The islands must be passed very close to avoid 
several rocks which are J mile to the northward of the cove. 
Saltpeter has often been shipped from this place. 

In the northern part of this stretch of the coast is the cove LeBa C0Te " 
of Lena, with a depth of from 1 to 6 fathoms. The same 
precautions have to be taken on entering it as for Yapes. 
The landing is difficult nearly the whole year, on account of 
the surf. 

Caramucho cove is 1£ miles north of Yapes; it affords a caramucho 

° *■ 7 cove. 

bad anchorage in 9 or 10 fathoms, without shelter ; scattered 
rocks make out £ mile from the shore, and it is frequently 
exposed to a heavy swell. 
Chucumata cove is 11 miles N. of Patillos and WSW. of chucumata 

cove. 

mount Oyarvide. It is somewhat sheltered from the south- 
ward by a small point ; the anchorage is near the rock iu 
from 7 to 10 fathoms ; there are no inhabitants. 

Ligate cove is 1 mile N. of Chucumata cove ; it offers no Ligate cove. 
shelter or convenience of any kind. 

The coast runs N. and S., with some slight curves to the, 9 y* r , vi d e 

7 ° heights and moun - 

westward, for 28 J miles from point Patache. It is a curtain of t&tn - 
high hills, called the heights of Oyarvide; its summit, which 
is 5,800 feet above the sea, is a little back to the NE. 

It is dangerous to approach this coast nearer than 3 miles, 
on account of the calms and heavy swell. 

Tarapaca mountain is the northern termination of Oyar- ta £ara P acamoun- 
vide heights; its summit is an inclined plane, with the 
greatest elevation to the northward. 

Grueso point is a spur of Tarapaca mountain .• It is formed &™™o point. 
of high dark rocks, which advance into the sea in a convex 
form. There are several isolated rocks off the point, some 
extending out J mile ; but all are visible. 

On the northern part of point Grueso there are some re- 
markable white points and three hills, which can serve as a 
landmark for Iquique. This is important, as all this coast 
presents the aspect of a wall rising abruptly from the sea, 
and the points do not appear to project, especially at sunrise. 



302 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



cove. 



JV J e hiquinata From Grueso point the coast runs 4J miles NE., still 
keeping the same appearance, after which it resumes its 
northerly direction and forms Chiquinata cove, which abounds 
in deposits of guano, covered, like that of point Lobos, by a 
bed of caliche and sand. 
MoiiecoTe. Molle cove, in the bight formed by this part of the coast, 

can be easily recognized. Toward its end and on the hills 
which surround it is the road leading up the mountain, which 
can be seen for a long distance. The depth is from 5 to 9 
fathoms very close to the shore. There is a private wharf, 
alongside of which vessels of 600 tons can moor; large ship- 
ments of saltpeter are made from here. There is no fresh 
water in this cove or those to the southward, but condensed 
water can be bought at a moderate price. 

^coaBt of iqai- At the foot of the mountaill? to t h e northward of Molle 

cove, is a beach of light sand several miles long ; at its foot 
is the excellent port of Iquique. 
iquique islet. Iquique islet is a very short distance from the shore ; the 
channel between can only be used by boats. Its surface is 
low and level, with the exception of a hillock 46 feet high ; 
it is surrounded by rocks, and those to westward of it should 
be specially avoided, as some of them are covered at high 
water and are 400 yards from the islet; those to the north- 
ward of the island extend only 200 yards. The company of 
English steamers show a light from this island; but it is 
only lighted during the nights when the steamers of that 
line pass, and it cannot be relied upon. It should be at the 
western extremity of the reefs instead of on the island. 
on of iquique. The port of Iquique is to the northward, and to the lee- 
ward of the islet, which keeps off the southern swell. It is 
convenient, safe, and spacious, extending over an area of 4 
miles. The bottom is of sand and rock, with a depth of from 
5 to 10 fathoms. Fitz Roy gives for the anchorage in 5} 
fathoms the following bearings: Point Pied ras, N. 1° E.; 
the western point of the island, S. 68° 15' E. ; and the church 
steeple, S. 2° E. One anchor with 30 fathoms of chain is 
sufficient. The principal landing is in the little cove off the 
wall of the temporary custom-house. 

There are many low rocks off the coast on the side of the 
channel which separates it from the island ; they are 
covered at high tide, and are always marked by large masses 



IQUIQUE. 



303 



of sea-weed. Going to the steps of the custom-house, this 
channel must be passed, heading for the street to the south- 
ward of the custom-house, and between the two rocks 
known as el Toro and la Vaca; these must be avoided, as 
boats may be endangered by them, especially during the 
night or during the heavy swells from June to August. A 
permanent mole is beiug built by which this will be avoided. 

There is no safe anchorage to the southward of the island 
on account of the many scattered ' rocks, and the want of 
shelter. 

Vessels bound to this port should be careful to make the 
land to the southward, especially the white patches of point 
Grueso, and they should not approach the shore nearer 
than 4 miles before making out the bight of Iquique. 

The course should then be shaped for the dune or the 
most northern white patch of point Grueso ; the port will 
then be easily reached by heading for the island and the 
church-steeple, as soon as they are made out. Vessels are 
often becalmed near the island, in which case they must be 
towed by their boats, as they would otherwise be carried to 
leeward of the port by the force of the current. 

It is high water, full and change, at Iquique, at 8 h 45 m , 
rise 5 feet. 

From the southward, Iquique is the first of the larger 
ports of Peru, or of those which have custom-houses and 
are ports of entry. 

There is no vegetation and no fresh water in the vicinity 
of Iquique, but all kinds of provisions can be obtained, 
though at high prices ; water is condensed from sea- water, 
which makes it dear, but the price is not unreasonable. 
There is always plenty of coal, and steamers can purchase 
it at reasonable rates. 

Iquique is the principal depot of saltpeter and borax. 
These products, which are found in many parts of the 
province of Tarapaca, to which this port belongs, are ex- 
ported in large quantities. 

A railroad has been built from this point to la Noria, 70 
miles, the principal center of the saltpeter factories ; the 
station is near the beach at the northern extremity of the 
town ; it runs up the hills to the northward, turns to the 



Directions. 



Tides. 



Description. 



304 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

south, still ascending, and disappears in the interior amongst 
the heights of Molle. It can be easily seen from seaward. 

The ancient and celebrated silver-mines of Huantajalla 
are at present almost abandoned, though near to this port. 
They will undoubtedly be worked again when the popula- 
tion and commerce increase, but at present labor is too 
expensive. 

In the port of Iquique, as in nearly all those on this coast, 
a peculiar kind of balsa is used for fishing and loading salt- 
peter, when boats cannot be beached ; they consist of two 
separate parts, each of which is composed of two skins of 
the seal; they are sewed perfectly tight and pointed at the 
ends, and are inflated by means of a tube with a mouth- 
piece of bone ; the two parts are lashed together with rope 
made from skins, and a platform of planks is placed on it ; 
the latter supports the cargo and the man who steers the 
balsa, who, on his knees, propels the float with a double 
paddle of cane with a skin stretched on each extremity. 
The natives make passages on them from the southern cove 
to the ports of Arica and Islay, but then they are furnished 
with a mast and light sail of tocuyo — a coarse and solid 
cotton fabric of the country. 
point Piedras. The roadstead of Iquique is bounded on the north by 
point Piedras, which is high and rocky, and projects but 
little. It derives its name from the rocks, which lie close to 
it and are visible. 

From point Piedras the coast runs N. with a slight in- 
clination to the westward ; it is formed of very high and 
steep mountains, with but few beaches, and can be ap- 
proached as close as desired, as the depths are considerable 
and the current sets to seaward, even during calm weather. 
The passage from Iquique to the western ports should be 
made as stated in the preceding chapter. It often takes 
eight or ten days to go from Iquique to Pisagua when such 
a course is not followed. 
and°cov a e da P ° mt Oolorada point is 11J miles to the northward of point 
Piedras, the cove of the same name being immediately to 
leeward of it ; it affords no shelter, but is clean, with a 
depth of from 10 to 13 fathoms very near the laud. The 
road to the interior can be seen on the mountains. 



POINT MEJILLONES. 



305 



Aurora gorge. 



Little hill and 
point Mejillones. 



Two small islets, called Cololue, are some hundred yards coioiue 
off Colorada point. They are whitened by a thin bed of 
guano. 

About 5 miles to northward the coast is cut by Aurora 
gorge; it is small, and extends but a short distance into the 
interior. It is inaccessible. 

Little hill and point Mejillones extend about 1£ miles to 
leeward of the gorge. The former is an isolated hillock de- 
tached from the coast and forming a peninsula of moderate 
height, but lower than the coast. It can be easily recog- 
nized from this and its position, and besides by a road lead- 
ing to the mountains, which is seen to the southward. Some 
small islets and rocks extend from the hill 100 yards to the 
SW. ; its northern point, or that of the peninsula, is black, 
and in passing it the detached rocks which extend out about 
200 yards to the northward must be looked out for. 

Mejillones cove is to the northward of Little hill ; it has Mejuiones cove. 
from 7 to 11 fathoms of water close to the shore. The best 
anchorage is in the middle, about 200 yards from the shore, 
in 10 or 11 fathoms ; it is narrow and inconvenient. When 
there are more than three or four large vessels, it becomes 
absolutely necessary to moor head and stern. Large quan- 
tities of saltpeter are shipped from this cove, where there 
are large store-houses and always vessels loading. The 
town is small and without resources. On the hill and islets 
are thin beds of guano. 

It is prudent always to have an anchor ready when ap- 
proaching the cove, as the calms and currents often neces- 
sitate towing by the boats. 

When bound to Mejillones from seaward, the land should 
be made at Iquique, and the peninsula, which at first appears 
as an island, will soon be seen, and after it the road to the 
mines. The land should then be gradually closed, so as to 
pass about 300 yards to the northward of the peninsula. 
Enough room must be allowed at the anchorage to swing 
clear of the rocks off the N. point during calms. 

About 9 miles to the northward is Junin cove, whose an- 
chorage, from 12 to 19 fathoms, is not sheltered, and is sub- 
ject to a heavy swell. 

A very small point runs out a few yards to the southward 
of the cove and gives a protection to the landing, for which 
20 c 



Junin cove. 



306 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

there is a commodious wharf. Vessels should always have 
a stern mooring, in order to stem the constant long south 
swell. The road down the mountains, which is clearly 
marked on their flank and forms an acute angle with the 
summit to the north, is a good landmark ; another is a white 
tower situated On the upper profile of the cliffs above the 
anchorage. 

The saltpeter is brought down to the store-houses, which 
are on the small points, by carts. The only fresh water is 
condensed. 
Pichaio point. Point Pichalo is the most remarkable point on this coast. 
It is 15 miles !N". of Mejillones, and projects nearly 2 miles 
perpendicular to the coast, showing several hills, and, de- 
scending gradually to its extremity, it forms almost right 
angles with the coast to the northward and southward. 
Guaina-pisagua In doubling the point just described attention must be 
paid to a rock lying off it 200 yards ; Fitz Roy gives its dis- 
tance 100 yards. After this is passed the point is clear, and 
can be approached closely, when the spacious bay of Gruaina- 
Pisagua opens. It is surrounded by very high mountains, 
and has little or no beach ; the anchorage is in its eastern 
or central part, in from 9 to 15 fathoms, very near the land 
and off the town of the same name. A hidden rock, on 
which the sea does not always break, must be avoided $ it 
lies 200 yards off the middle of the town. It is best to an- 
chor off the western extremity of the town until acquainted 
with the position of the rock, after which the vessel can be 
hauled into any convenient position. Fitz Roy places this 
rock 400 yards from the. shore, with 4 J feet of water over it. 
He indicates the anchorage as J mile from the village in 8 
fathoms, point Pisagua bearing N. 3° E. 

This bay is often subject to very heavy gusts, which sweep 
down the mountains from 10 to 11 a. m. to the first hours 
of the night, causing vessels to drag into deep water, and 
rendering it necessary to make sail. These gusts shift 
quickly and with great violence from one point to another, 
between east and west by the south. Vessels should double 
the point under short sail, and this precaution should not 
be disregarded even if it be calm outside. 

The port, one of entry, has but a small population ; water 
and provisions of all kinds can be obtained, but at high 



POINT PISAGUA. 307 

prices, as everything is imported. After Iquique, the great- 
est quantity of saltpeter is shipped from this port, and there 
are always several large vessels at anchor. Small quanti- 
ties of coal can be obtained at moderate prices. 

A railroad is being constructed to the factories called de 
Sal de Obispo, which can be plainly seen on the mountains 
to the northward, on which it forms an acute angle in wind- 
ing back to the southward to attain the heights. 

Point Pisagua is the northern limit of the bay of Guaina- ? 0T s e ^a 

° u point Pisagua. 

Pisagua for a distance of 2 miles. The gorge is immedi- 
ately to leeward. A very small rivulet of good water runs 
through it during the summer. The people, who have their 
huts on the shore, are principally occupied in fishing and 
transporting water to the town. During the winter the 
brook dries entirely and shallow wells are dug to reach the 
water. 

The Pisagua river, like the Loa, has not sufficient strength 
to reach the sea. Fitz Roy says, in contradiction to Garcia, 
that it is dangerous and that landing is difficult. 

Pisagua bay is to leeward of the point and opposite the Pisagua bay. 
gorge of the same name. The depth near the point is be- 
tween 6 and 10 fathoms ; there are some few inhabitants, 
but no resources of any kind. Guano mixed with sand is 
found at several points in its vicinity. 

Gorda point is 16 miles from point Pisagua, and offers Point Gorda. 
nothing remarkable. Some rocks above water run out from 
it 1 mile. 

The gorge of Camarones is 6 J miles to the northward; it _9jj maroae 
makes a perpendicular cut in the cliffs, which are from 2,000 
to 4,000 feet high. At its opening it is about 1 mile wide; 
in front of it is a cove, with an anchorage in from 9 to 11 
fathoms near the shore, but the heavy surf leaves no safe 
poiut for landing ; the sides of the gorge are covered with 
bushes. On the southern side are some white stones which 
resemble houses wheu seen from a distance. In the sum- 
mer months there is generally a small stream of good water. 
The coast south of the gorge to point Gorda, and north to 
the gorge of Titor, has no beaches whatever; the sea beats 
against the foot of the mountains, on many parts of which 
are patches of guano. This coast is steeper and higher than 
that in its vicinity. 



gorge. 



308 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



Point Madrid. 



Cape Lobos. 



Vitor gorge. 



La Capilla. 



La Licera. 



Mount Gordo. 



LI Morro 
Arica. 



de 



The name of point Madrid is given to a small point about 
12 J miles to the northward of Camarones gorge. It is clean, 
but of no importance. 

Cape Lobos is a very remarkable point, 27 miles to the 
northward of Camerones ; it projects but little, is of convex 
form, and rises in steps. It is quite clean, and of a dark 
color at its base ; toward the top there are some very bright 
white patches ; thin beds of guano. It is said that small 
vessels can anchor under its lee. 

The coast is cut by Vitor gorge 2\ miles north of cape 
Lobos; it is deep, resembling that of Camarones, and about 
f mile wide. The valley extends several miles into the. in- 
terior, and has but little vegetation. During the summer 
months a small stream of water penetrates to the sea. 

The low and sandy beach in front of the gorge forms a 
regular cove, with from 6 to 9 fathoms close to the shore. 
Boats cannot always be beached, as the sea often breaks 
heavily. 

The coast to the southward of Yitor gorge is formed of. 
steep, high mountains, surmounted by a sort of table-laud, 
averaging from 2,000 to 4,000 feet in height ; that to the 
northward, as the preceding, trends almost north and south 
for 11J miles; at this distance a slight indentation com- 
mences to the east, called La Capilla, surrounded by hills 
lower and more inclined. 

From cape Lobos to the north there are white patches 
and bands, indicating guano. 

To the northward of this indentation the coast makes a 
slight elbow, called La Licera. Troops have been disem- 
barked at this point, but landing is always attended with 
danger and the loss of men, as there is no time when the 
surf is not heavy. 

Mount Gordo lies to the northward and near this beach ; 
it is 878 feet above the sea, and terminates in a bluff. 

The Morro de Arica forms the southern extremity of the 
port of that name. It is a large mass of rocks, which rises 
almost perpendicularly to the height of 530 feet, and is 
crowned by an almost horizontal platform, with a slight in- 
clination toward the interior. The part toward the sea has 
on it several patches of guano, which gives it a silver ap- 
pearance from a distance ; it can be seen for 20 or 25 mile 



A 



1 :ib;;:. 



CO 



Ob 

S 



I 

.3 
1 



1 




V 




ALACRAN ISLAND. 



309 



Alacran island. 



in clear weather. It would be difficult to mistake it for 
another point, but it is more readily recognize 1 when com- 
ing: from the southward than when coming from the west- 
ward. , 

The small island Alacran is separated from the Morro by 
a very narrow channel. This passage is dangerous and im- 
practicable ; it is strewn with shoals and filled with large 
masses of sea- weed. The island is low and uninhabited. A 
fort was being constructed on it and was well advanced, 
when it was destroyed by the earthquake and inundation of 
August 13, 1868. There are some rocks around the island, 
but very near it ; the most distant, those to the westward 
and northward, being less than 100 yards distant. The point 
for landing is in the Morro channel, avoiding the rocks until 
a little creek, almost in the middle of the channel, is open, 
where there is a small wharf, but it is often preferable to 
beach the boats. 

The port of Arica opens to the northward of the island of Port of Arica. 
Alacran, which shelters it from the southward ; it is formed 
by the coast, which runs out from the Morro and first curves 
to XE. and then to NW, The port is large and convenient, 
having a depth of from 5 to 10 fathoms near the land ; bot- 
tom coarse sand. A vessel is almost always safe with one 
anchor and 45 fathoms of chain. There is some rocky bot- 
tom to leeward which would endanger the anchor. 

The best anchorage is to the northward of the islet, a lit- 
tle toward the channel, at a distance of from 400 to 600 
yards. This is the most sheltered place against the swell 
which often sets in from the STV. It is best to moor head 
and stern, head to the SW., with a second anchor ready for 
letting go. During the months from June to August there 
is often such a sea-way as to interrupt all work, but by moor- 
ing as above indicated there is no danger. 

Vessels bound to this port should make the land to wind- 
ward and approach it after passing Vitor gorge. When 
from 9 to 12 miles from this gorge the Morro de Arica will 
be seen, resembling a steep, white hill, and also the rounded 
hill called Monte Gordo farther inland ; and, on a nearer 
approach, the island of Alacran, which cannot be mistaken 
for the Morro de Arica, as it is low. The bight of Arica is 
subject to frequent calms or to light variable winds, and the 



Directions. 



310 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

currents are strong, so that vessels heading directly for the 
port instead of to the southward of it are carried from it. 
Vessels to the southward, on the contrary, have only to 
drift, and need only the lightest breeze. The calms near 
the land are not dangerous, as the coast is clear and the 
current sets to seaward. Should it become dark or calm 
when approaching the port, or when not wishing to enter, 
it is best to anchor, or drop a kedge as soon as the lead 
shows a good depth for that purpose, otherwise a vessel 
would find herself to leeward of the port and probably be 
unable to make it during the day. 

Arica is amply provided with provisions of all sorts ; 
water is taken in by casks, which are rolled to the wells. 
It is the third great port of entry from the southward, and 
the second in point of importance. It is united with Tacna, 
the capital of the department of Moquegua, in which it is 
situated, by 45 miles of railroad. There is also telegraphic 
communication. 

This city was but a short time since one of the most 
flourishing on the coast, but was completely destroyed by 
the earthquake and inundation of 1868 ; it will probably be 
soon rebuilt, as the amount necessary for that purpose has 
been granted by the government. The water consumed in 
the port is drawn from the valley of Azapa, where the wells 
give excellent water. It is said that there is much intermit- 
tent fever in the town, and it is certain that the Morro inter- 
rupts the sea-breeze. 

The wharf, which was destroyed by the earthquake, was 
replaced in 1870 by a small landing, which is not always 
convenient, as it is dry at low water, when it is better to 
run on the shingle-beach, inside of the landing. 

The bottom having altered since the earthquake of 1868, 
it is recommended not to anchor to the eastward of a KE. 
£ E. line passing over the western summit of Alacran island, 
nor more than J mile to the northward of the parallel of the 
Morro, in from 5 to 9 fathoms. 

The ground back of Arica rises gradually to the snow- 
covered peaks of the Andes. Among them the volcano of 
Arequipa can be seen at a distance of 90 miles. During 
clear weather Tacna, which is distant 20 miles in a straight 
line, will be seen. There are few views so majestic as that 



ARICA. 



311 



Tides. 



Valley 
Azapa. 



of 



Cha- 



f the Andes between Arica and cape Sama ; some of these 
mountains have a height 19,630 to 22,960 feet. 

The principal commerce of the port of Arica consists in 
the importation of foreign merchandise for its department 
and in transit for Bolivia, and in the export of barilla, tin, 
wool, hides, cotton, and precious metals from Peru, as also 
from Bolivia. Small quantities of coal can generally be 
obtained. 

It is high water, full and change, at Arica at 8 h 50 m ; rise, 
5.3 feet. 

The valley of Azapa is at the extremity of the city of 
Arica ; it rises gradually but sensibly to the interior; it has 
very little water, but abundant and excellent fruit is raised ; 
the olives in particular have a great reputation. The plans 
for increasing the amount of water in this valley appear 
favorable to the enterprise. 

The valley of Chacayuta is alongside of that of Azapa, vaiiey of 
and extends to the northward of Arica. In the interior are 
seen the mountains of Tacora covered with perpetual snow. 
The shores in this port are sandy and low; the sea always 
breaks and makes landing dangerous. The coast of the 
continent, which has thus far run nearly X. and S., changes 
its general direction abruptly to NW. 

The coast keeps its low and sandy aspect for 23 miles, Heights of juan 
running nearly N. 50° W. to the heights of Juan Diaz, 
which are close to the sea, and of moderate height. The 
soundings to seaward are regular ; from 2 to 3 miles from 
the coast there are 14 to 28 fathoms, muddy bottom. 

Quiaca point, a low tongue of land, is 5 miles to the X VT. Quiaca point, 
of Juan Diaz ; it unites near the beach with the cliffs which 
extend to the northward. 

Sama head is remarkable for its elevation, 3,890 feet ; it 
is 42J miles XW. of Arica ; seen from a distance, it has a 
dark-blue color. It can be easily recognized 30 or 40 miles, 
as it is the highest land in the vicinity of this part of the 
coast. It seems to project outside of the coast-line, and is 
the landmark for Ilo. The rocks which run out from it are 
close to and above water. 

Sama point is formed by a spur running out from the hill 
toward the sea. 



Sama head. 



Sama point. 



312 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



sama cove. To the northward of Sama point is Sama cove ; it is clean, 

with a depth of from 9 to 13 fathoms near the shore. On 
the mountains surrounding it the path can be seen which is 
used by the muleteers who come to load guano. The ves- 
sels loadiDg the guano for the neighboring valleys are the 
only ones which visit this small cove. There are only two or 
three straw huts, in which fishermen and the guards over the 
guano live ; landing can only be effected with balsas. 

Locumba river. Locumba river empties 5 miles to the NW., after irrigating 
the valley of the same name. It is full of water from Feb- 
ruary to June, and almost dry the remainder of the year. 

Ticke point. Ticke point is 4 miles NW. of Locumba river; it is stony 

and in close proximity to the mountains of the interior. 

picata point. Following the coast to the northward, Picata point is 3£ 
miles from Ticke point. Both are small, and without im- 
portance. All the neighboring coast is clear. 

The soundings to seaward are regular; 2 miles from the 
coast, between Locumba and Coles points, there are from 
14 to 20 fathoms. 

point coies. Point Coles is 32J miles WNW. of Sama hill ; it is very 

salient and low at its western extremity ; it rises toward the 
interior, and the ground becomes rugged ; it can be easily 
recognized, as its western extremity is formed by several 
islands and high rocks which extend out, and can be seen at 
a good distance ; from a distance it resembles an island. 

After doubling this point, the coast trends nearly N. 28° 
E. to the gorge of Ilo, forming several small coves, known 
as Ingles, Oalienta, Negro, Pacocha, and la Picuda coves. 
After doubling the point, the land must not be approached 
to the southward closer than 1 mile, as it is strewn with 
rocks above water, called Tortuga, Leones, Tres Hermanos, 
and others, which are submerged and run out to the distance 
of J mile. 

Ingles cove is the best landing-place in the bay of Ilo, but 
it has been closed to prevent smuggling. Back of it is a 
mountain, remarkable for its plateau, which joins the mount- 
ains to the NE. of Ilo. 

Following the shore of the point at the distance above 
mentioned, the land can be approached as soon as the Her 
manos bear to the southward of east, when Pacocha cove, 
the most important anchorage in Ilo bay, will be open. The 



Pacocha cove. 



PORT ILO. 



313 



anchorage is good near the shore in from 12 to 11 fathoms, 
stony bottom. There is a wharf which affords ail conveni- 
ences for landing ; there is no fresh water, the inhabitants 
bringing it from the river Ilo. 

Pacocha is the point of the terminus of the railroad uniting 
the coast with the rich valley of Moquequa ; it has without 
doubt great conveniences for a good port. At present there 
are but few houses and inhabitants. There are no resources, 
with the exception of small quantities of fresh provisions. 
The exports are wines and olive oil, the principal products 
of the surrounding valleys. 

The anchorage is subject to strong winds and heavy gusts 
from about noon to early in the night. These do not, how- 
ever, raise much sea, owing to the proximity of the land to 
windward ; a very heavy swell is frequent from June to Sep- 
tember. 

The port of Ilo is at the head of the cove opposite the Port ofBo. 
gorge of the same name. The village was completely de- 
stroyed by the inundation which followed the earthquake of 
August, 1868, when some of the wooden houses were actu- 
ally thrown up on the heights. The anchorage is farther to 
the southward in from 8 to 10 fathoms ; but the land should 
never be approached closer than 100 yards. There is always 
a heavy cross-swell in this roadstead, for which reason ves- 
sels generally prefer the anchorage of Pacocha. The road 
along the shore is short and good. There are many rocky 
places in the bottom of the anchorage at Ilo, rendering it 
dangerous to vessels, and causing loss of anchors. It is 
best to anchor with one anchor and a stern line. 

The principal commerce of Ilo consists in olive oil. All 
the inhabitants of the gorge are employed in its prepara- 
tion. The distance from Ilo to Moquequa is 51 miles. 

Ilo gorge is formed by the slopes of the mountainse imm- no gorge. 
diately to the north and south of it, the vegetation beginning 
at the edge of the sea. It is watered by a brook which runs 
to the ocean and gives an abundant supply from February 
to May. There are some scattered rocks at a distance of J 
mile to the westward of the gorge. 

Sopladera point is 5 miles XX W. of Ilo gorge. There are sopiadera point 
some few rocks off it, above water. 



314 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



Chuza cove. 



Yerba 
point. 



Buena 



Cove and gorge 
of Yerba Buena. 



Point Pacay. 



Pacay cove. 



Islet of Jesus. 



Cocotea cove. 



Chuza cove is to leeward of Sopladera point. It can be 
easily recognized, as the olive trees grow down to near the 
sea. The depth is from 9 to 10 fathoms 600 yards from the 
shore. There is fresh water from natural falls, and the land- 
ing is generally easy, by beaching on the north side of the 
point. 

The coast to the NW. becomes a little more salient, and 
forms Yerba Buena point, 3J miles from Chuza cove. 

Yerba Buena cove is immediately to the northward of the 
point, and the gorge of the same name is 1 mile farther to 
leeward. There is an anchorage in from 8 to 10 fathoms, 
400 yards to leeward of the point $ landing is generally dif- 
ficult, on account of the surf, but it can be effected by run- 
ning on the sand-beach to leeward of the point, where there is 
fresh water. The cove is easily recognized, from the gorge 
and the olive trees which it incloses. The gorge is formed 
by two parallel cliffs, between which the vegetation can be 
seen. The north coast, as the south, is formed of high and 
barren mountains. All the coast, as far as Tambo, is from 
196 to 392 feet high. 

Point Pacay is 13J miles N". 40° W. from Yerba Buena 
gorge ) it is high and rocky, with a ravine at its western 
extremity. 

Pacay cove is to the northward of the point. The bottom 
is rocky, with a depth of from 18 to 20 fathoms 800 yards 
from the land. There are ordinarily masses of guano on the 
beach, brought by vessels for the agriculture of the coun- 
try. There are a few huts occupied by fishermen and watch- 
men. This place is devoid of resources, and often rendered 
difficult of access on account of the surf. 

The coast, going to the northward, continues clear. It 
is bordered by some islets near the land, the most remarka- 
ble of which is the islet of Jesus, which is 3 J miles from 
Pacay and J mile from the land; it is high, clean, and cov- 
ered by a light bed of white guano, by which it can be easily 
recognized. 

Cocotea cove runs into the land to the northward of Jesus 
islet. It has mountains at its extremities and a gorge at its 
head. The best anchorage is inside, between the islet of 
Jesus and the north shore, in from 8 to 13 fathoms. The 
swell is heavy. Vessels remaining but a few days let go 



VALLEY OF TA3IB0. 315 

one anchor, haul into o fathoms off the huts, and moor head 
and stern, as the cove is very narrow. This place, devoid 
of resources, is only visited by vessels bringing guano for 
the country, and by small vessels bringing provisions for 
the inhabitants of the valley of Tambo. 

Cape Peje-Perro is a small promontorv which runs out cape Peje- 
from the coast 3 miles XW, of Cocotea; it offers no shelter, 
and landing is difficult on account of the continual surf. 

Following the coast for 9 miles, which trends to the W^W., vaiiey of 

& ' ' Tambo. 

the large and fertile valley of Tambo, in the deep gorge of 
the same name, is seen. It is the only place on this part of 
the coast where there is extensive cultivation. The gorge 
is wide toward the sea, and contracts toward the interior. 
The slopes of the mountains and the ravines are perfectly 
barren, making a strong contrast with the luxuriant vegeta- 
tion of the plain, which is watered by a river. This vege- 
tation commences close by the sea and continues for a short 
distance to the north and south in front of the ravines which 
terminate the gorge. The valley abounds in the necessaries 
of life. Its richest products are rice and sugar-cane. 

The beach in front of the gorge extends to seaward and M6jioo point, 
forms Mejico point, which is low, sandy, and almost in- 
accessible, owing to the heavy surf. 

There is no safe anchorage on this part of the coast ; 
there are but from 5 to 6 fathoms of water 1 mile from the 
land, and from 19 to 28 fathoms, with muddy bottom, at a 
distance of 3 or 4 miles. 

In clear weather the Misti, or volcano of Arequipa, can volcano of 
be seen through the valley of Tambo, though a long dis- 
tance in the interior. It has a conical form, and is covered 
by perpetual snow. It is 20,290 feet high, and at sunrise, 
in clear weather, it can be seen 100 miles. 

From the gorge of Tambo the coast runs XW. by TV., Mejiacove. 
with a low sandy beach and high cliffs, close together, 
forming an opening called la Ensenada. The appearance of 
the coast does not change for 6 miles, when it makes a short 
turn, forming the cove of Mejia, with an anchorage in from 
9 to 10 fathoms 1,000 or 1,200 yards from the land. This 
cove gives no shelter, and the surf is heavy and constant. 

A small quantity of fresh water can be obtained from a 
very small gorge in the neighboring mountains, called Chule. 



316 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



Port of 
lendo. 



There was formerly a creek in front of this gorge, but it is 
closed up with sand. It was proposed to make Mejia the 
terminus of the railroad to Arequipa, and the landing of 
the materials had commenced, but the difficulty of this 
operation decided the engineers to abandon it. and the 
terminus was established at Mollendo. 

The coast from 2 miles to, the southward of Mollendo is 
covered with ashes or very fine white sand. 
Moi- The port of Mollendo is 9 miles NW. of Mejia cove, and 
nearly 5 miles to the eastward of point Islay ; there are 
some scattered rocks to the N-. and S., but they are all near 
the shore and above water. The bottom is of coarse sand ; 
the depth near the shore is 12 fathoms, with 22 fathoms at 
600 yards. A vessel rode out here the tidal wave of 1868. 

This place was adopted for landing all the materials for 
the railroad to Arequipa, which is now extended to the city 
of Puno, 13,900 feet above the sea level. The workshops 
and houses of the employes are on top of the cliffs ; they 
are visible from seaward, and are the best mark for the 
anchorage, which is clear, but without shelter against the 
constant SW. swell. Vessels generally moor head and stern, 
with the head to the southward, stemming the swell. The 
stern moorings must be strong on account of the strong 
current setting to the W2n"W. The mail-boats have two 
buoys for this purpose moored N. and S., in 20 fathoms, 800 
yards from the rocks. An island to the southward of the 
upper buildings has been united to the coast, and the rail- 
road track starts from this junction; this peninsula sepa- 
rates the two inner coves. In the northernmost is a tem- 
porary wharf, which is inside of the small point and the 
rocks off it. The water is brought through pipes from a 
neighboring gorge, and condensers are also used. 

L 'g h{ - A ichite light 147 feet above the sea, visible 3 miles, is 

shown from the flag-staff on the peninsula. 

As before stated, there is a strong current in the port, 
always setting to seaward. There is often considerable 
sea, which, though not dangerous, often interrupts commu- 
nication with the shore for two or three days. This is 
especially the case from June to September. The breakers 
off the point of the island often extend to the land. 

Directions. Vessels bound to Mollendo should make the land off the 



POINT ISLAY. 



317 



Tides. 



Guerrero gorge. 



x Coast of Islay 






valley of Tambo, and then hug the coast for 3 miles. Sail- 
ing- vessels must bear in mind that if they are becalmed in 
the evening there is no other anchorage excepting that off 
Mejico point; farther north the land has to be too closely 
approached for anchorage. 

It is high water, full and change, at XTolleudo at 8 U 00 m ; 
rise, 5.2 feet. 

Chiguas cove is a small indentation 3 miles to the west- cniguascove. 
ward of Molleudo, where boats can land during fine weather. 

Guerrero gorge is the largest gorge in the mountains of 
the interior. The railroad to Arequipa can be easily seen 
following its declivities. 

From Mollendo the coast trends nearly E. and W. for 5 
miles. All the coast between the valley of Tambo and 
point Cornejo to the north can be easily recognized; high 
and barren mountains descend gradually to the sea without 
leaving any beach ; all of them are covered with large white 
patches, caused by a kind of cinder or white earth ; it is 
thought to be the product of some volcanic eruption which 
took place long since. 

Below the White mountains, to the westward of Mollendo, Point way. 
is a dark band a little above the sea, called point Islay. It 
is impossible to mistake it when attention is given to this 
difference in color. Eocky islets are scattered around the 
point, but they are high and near to it: there is a rock 
awash ^ mile south of the point, or 437 yards S. by E. of 
the southernmost rock, and S. 45° E. of the western Alvi- 
zuri islet; the sea breaks almost constantly over it, so that 
it can be readily seen: it is called San Malo; to clear it the 
westernmost Alvizuri islet should not be brought to bear to 
the northward of X. 20° W. while to the southward of the 
rocks off point Islay. 

The three islets called Alvizuri or White islets are off the Alvizuri islets. 
north point, and mark the entrance to the port of Islay. 
They are clean, of moderate height, white and rugged. 
They are generally passed to the northward as close to as 
desirable, as there are 20 fathoms at the foot of the western 
rock. On coming from the southward a channel will be 
seen between the islands and rocks off the point ; it is per- 
fectly clear, the depth being from 11 to 17 fathoms. It can 
be taken when wishing to enter and take a better anchorage 



318 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

to windward 5 it is not advisable, however, for vessels vis- 
iting the port for the first time. 
The port of The port of Islay is distinguished from all others on the 
coast of Peru by its configuration. It is a large basin, sur- 
rounded by dark, rocky, and almost perpendicular cliffs, 
which leave no beach. The bottom, which is very steep, is 
of rock ; 100 yards from the shore there are from 11 to 13 
fathoms, and the depth increases to 26 and 30 fathoms in the 
center of the port, and 600 yards from the land the depth is 
between 30 and 40 fathoms. Vessels should therefore keep 
as close to the southern shore as possible ; they will be close 
to the wharf on that side, and can run their stern fasts to 
the rocks. 

There is a pier, with an iron frame and a wooden plat- 
form, constructed on some islets and the shore. An inclined 
plane commences at this point, about 295 feet in length, 
which has a tramway and stationary steam-engine, by means 
of which the merchandise is taken to the custom-house. 
This building is situated at the shore end of the road, and 
the town commences near it. 

Off the small point of the redoubt, in the middle of the 
south shore, is a shoal on which the sea always breaks. 
Landing is often difficult, even alongside of the wharf, 
and experienced men are necessary when the swell breaks 
heavily on the shore, which is generally the case at the 
syzygies, and especially at the equinoxes. 

From the southward Islay is the fourth port of entry of 
Pern, and the principal one of the department of Arequipa. 
The departments of Ouzco and Puno are also to a great 
extent provided through it. Large quantities of foreign 
merchandise for the use of these departments are imported, 
and large quantities of wool and other products of the coun- 
try are exported. Provisions can be obtained in the town, 
but fresh supplies are not abundant. Water is taken from 
the iron pipes along the wharf. The population is about 
2,000. 

The city of Arequipa is connected with Arica by a railroad 
90 miles long. There is also a telegraph. This city, of 35,000 
inhabitants, is, in a straight line, N. 45° E., 50 miles from 
Islay. It is 7,580 feet above the sea, on the plain of Quilca 



Directions-. 



ISLA.Y. 319 

It is surrounded by snow-covered peaks, above which the 
volcano of Arequipa rises to a height of 20,200 feet. 

Vessels coming from the southward should make the 
land at point Mejico, off the valley of Tambo, which is so 
remarkable that, with the description given, it cannot be 
mistakeu. After making this point, which can be seen at 
a distance of from 9 to 18 miles, according to the weather, 
head for a cut in the mountains to the westward. 

The railroad to Arequipa runs through this cut (Guerrero 
gorge) after following the foot of the hill from Islay. On 
approaching the coast, running to the northward, the white 
patch before mentioned will be seen, and soon after the 
dark belt which forms point Islay; on drawing closer in, 
the reef off it will be distinguished, with the white islets of 
Alvizuri, after which head for the western one ; when, pass- 
ing close to leeward of it, steer for the anchorage, taking 
care not to let go the anchor until as near the south coast 
as prudent. 

Some give a small olive-wood as a landmark for the 
southern anchorage, which is on the slope of the hummocks, 
about 6 miles N. by W. from point Islay. It is a dark, 
lozenge-shaped spot, of a dark-green color, which contrasts 
strongly with the glittering sand around it. 

With a free wind and a knowledge of the coast, it is best 
to steer through the passage between the eastern Alvizuri 
island and the island next toward the land, as the wind will 
be ahead when doubling the outside or western island. 

For this purpose, Flat rock, a small islet off the western 
point of the cove of Islay, must be kept just open to the 
northward of the town, or a vessel can go to seaward of this 
anchorage and drop her anchor as soon as the town is well 
open, with Flat rock to the southward and the point to the 
northward of the town, bearing X. 56° E. The best anchor- 
age is just inside of the point of Flat rock, off the landing, 
in from 10 to 12 fathoms. The mail-boats anchor as soon 
as the second island is covered by Flat rock. 

When coming from the westward, the land should be 
approached on the parallel of 17° 5', making the land 3 
miles south of point Islay. When not quite sure of the 
longitude, point Cornejo should be recognized in passing. 
It is very remarkable, and will be easily seen in clear 



320 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

weather by remaining on that parallel. The valley o' 
Quilca, the first green land west of Tambo, can be recog- 
nized ; otherwise look out for point Cornejo, and, when off 
it, point Islay will be seen bearing east, and resembling 
two islands off a steep point. During favorable weather a 
mountain 3,340 feet high, with a bell-shaped summit, will 
be seen KE. of the town, and afterward the town itself, 
having the appearance of black spots on a white ground. 
Then shape a course for the anchorage under the Alvizuri 
islets. 

This part of the coast is subject to frequent calms, for 
which reason the vessel's head must be kept to the south- 
ward of the port, to avoid being drifted to leeward. The 
current sets to the westward at the rate of from J to 1 mile 
an hour. If a vessel should be becalmed near the islands, 
boats must be used to tow in. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Islay at 8 h 50 m , rise 

7J feet. 

De la Fuente De la Fuente is a high islet some vards to the northward 

islet. ° *■ 

of the wharf, and separates the port from Matarani cove. 

Mataram cove. Matarani cove is in front of a small gorge of the same 
name which opens to the northward of the port, in the same 
indentation. This cove is bordered by a small sand-beach, 
but it is inconvenient for vessels which have to discharge 
at the mole, on account of the distance. The depth is from 
11 to 14 fathoms near the land. Yessels loaded with guano 
for Arequipa and its valleys anchor in this cove, where the 
guano is unloaded at steps which run up the heights. 
There is a small isolated rock in the center of the cove. 

Mount isiay. Mount Islay is toward the interior, XNE. of the port ; it is 
the highest peak of the mountains running along this coast, 
being 3,340 feet above the level of the sea; its summit is 
dark, of a conical form, with white patches on all sides. 

Moiiendito Front Matarini the coast continues N\V. for 3 miles, steep, 
with rocky cliffs, which are cut by the small gorge of Moi- 
iendito, off which there is a narrow beach with anchorage 
for small craft. Fishermen often reside here temporarily. 

Santa Anna The appearance of the coast continuing the same, about 9 

miles ~NW. is the small cove of Santa Anna, without shelter. 

The coast runs east and west for 2J miles from Santa 

Anna cove; it is rocky, high, covered with white patches, and 



X 












NO 



tM 



! 



>o 



QUILCA. 



321 



Nonato gorge. 



Arauta cove. 



terminates at this distance in Cornejo point, which is of a 
reddish color, its western extremity being composed of low 
isolated rocks, on which the sea always breaks. This point 
is often confounded with that of Islay, but this mistake can- 
not be made when the preceding remarks are consulted. 

.Nonato gorge is seen at the distance of 1 mile, in the 
northern part of the point. Off it is a very small cove, 
without convenient anchorage or shelter. 

Vessels can, however, moor at the head of this cove with- 
out feeling any swell, and as there is sufficient depth, ur- 
gent repairs can be made. For this purpose the anchor is 
dropped in 27 fathoms, 400 yards from the entrance, and the 
vessel hauled in. There are no resources, but an abundance 
of fish in this and the following cove. 

The coast for 2 miles to the northward continues high and Guata cove 
stony, when a slight indentation forms Guata cove ; it gives 
no shelter and can only serve as anchorage for small coast- 
ers. At the head of the gorge is a well of brackish water. 

Arauta cove is 3 miles NW. from Guata cove ; it is the 
best of the three just mentioned. To the southward of it is 
a small white islet which can be easily recognized. It was 
intended to establish a port here instead of at Islay, but it 
offers no important advantages and has serious inconvenien- 
cies, such as, a heavy swell, no shelter for large vessels, and 
the steepness of the mountains, which rise almost perpen- 
dicularly out of the sea. The bottom is of stone, and the 
depth from 19 to 21 fathoms, 400 or 500 yards from the 
shore. This port is sometimes used when the inundations 
of the river Quilca interrupt the communication between 
Quilca and Arequipa. 

From Arauta cove the coast, rocky and steep, trends IN". 
50° W. for 7 miles, when the cliffs are cut by the beautiful 
and fertile valley of Quilca, on the plain in the gorge which 
is inclosed by steep and lofty mountains running from the 
shore to the interior. The cultivated spots in the center of 
the valley are seen between the mountains and offer a splen- 
did view from seaward. The valley contains a river with 
an abundance of water. To the southward is a steep and 
clean islet. 

Quilca cove is seen to the northward when near the open- 
ing of the gorge. Its entrance is narrow, but there is a very 
21 c 



Gorge and val- 
ley of Quilca. 



Quilca cove. 



322 



FROM THE RIVER LOA To CAPE NAZCA. 



Tides. 



Description. 



Directions. 



good anchorage for small coasters and a fine landing-place. 
The depth is from 6 to 9 fathoms, the best anchorage for 
large vessels being to the southward, between the cove and 
the gorge, when the eye is the apex of a right-angle whose 
sides run toward the church-door and the island to the 
southward. The English steamship company has generally 
at the anchorage a small red buoy to indicate the best posi- 
tion. 

Lartigue gives the following anchorage : church N. 5° E., 
and the islets S. 70° W. ; bottom fine gray sand. It must 
be remembered that the .water deepens rapidly outside of 
the plateau. Vessels must anchor with- the head to the 
SSW., with a good stern-line, as the current often sets 
strongly to the SE. The bottom varies greatly, being either 
of rock, mud, sand, or gravel. During freshets, the water 
of the river is very muddy, the current is strong, and small 
mud-bars are formed on the rocky bottom. 

It is high water, full and change, at the Quilca river at S h 
00 m ; rise, 6 feet. 

Quilca was the principal port of Arequipa during its col- 
onization, but it was abandoned on account of the heavy 
swell which often sets into the cove, the distance and little 
shelter of the anchorage, and fiually the greater advantages 
of May. 

The town is very small and has no resources, excepting 
some fresh provisions. 

Landing off the valley is dangerous, and great difficulty 
is experienced in taking in water from the river. Quilca is 
visited principally by small vessels trading in oil and provis- 
ions. Boats must run in to the head of the cove and beach, 
but this is often difficult and dangerous on account of the 
surf. 

Landing is also possible in the small cove of Mielo, 1 mile 
NW. of that of Quilca, but its entrance is full of rocks. 

Point Gornejo, the landmark for Quilca, can be recog- 
nized by its reddish color ; the difference in height of the 
coast to the north and south also serves as a guide. About 
2 miles NW. of the point, the mountains forming the valley 
will begin to show, and afterward the city itself. 

The coast to the NW. of Quilca is abrupt, with some few 
sand-beaches. 



CAMANi. VALLEY. 323 

Point Pano is 9J miles WNW. of Quilca cove; all the Point Pano - 
intervening coast is bold; soundings commence from the 
N. part of the point toward the valley of Cainana. 

The coast trends W. by N., 6 miles from point Pano, to .Fuerte mount- 
mount Fuerte, which is close to the sea, and has the appear- 
ance of a curtain of a fort ; it is a very remarkable point, 
and can be easily distinguished when to the southward of 
Camana valley. 

The large and fertile valley of Camana opens to the NW. Camana valley ' 
of mount Fuerte ; it is from 2 to 3 miles wide near the sea, 
and its vegetation, interspersed with some white houses, 
can be seen from a long distance. There is good depth 
for anchoring throughout, but when it was intended to 
establish it as a port, vessels were accustomed to anchor in 
from 7 to 11 fathoms, muddy bottom, from 1J- to LJ miles 
from the shore on which the town is situated, nearly due 
south of Fuerte mountain. It is necessary to anchor as 
indicated, as the sea breaks a long distance from the beach. 
A heavy swell, no shelter, and a stroug current from the 
southward cause constant anxiety and risk. It is never 
prudent to attempt lauding in ships' boats. 

Camana has a large commerce in olives and olive oil with 
the interior and the ports along the coast. The other pro- 
ducts are consumed by the inhabitants. The river Camana 
has a good quantity of water throughout the year. 

From this valley the barren coast still continues to trend Coast. 
to the west and north, with beaches of sand backed by high 
mountains, for 17 miles, when steep cliffs 600 feet iu height 
commence. These are marked by white patches, and close 
to them lie some rocky islets. 

The deep gorge and valley of Ocolia opens about 2 miles vaiiey and 
from the NW. extremity of the cliffs; traversing the valley gorgeof0cofia - 
is a river of good water. There is no safe anchorage or 
good landing-place. The Clorinde anchored in 19 fathoms, 
sandy bottom, 2 miles SSW. from the middle of the valley. 
The gorge is formed of high and barren mountains to the 
N. and S. The principal cultivation is the olive and the 
vine, which afford some commerce. 

Pescadores point is 11 miles WNW. of Ocona gorge; it Pescadores 
is formed of high hills and steep cliffs, of a dark color, which 
descend gradually to its extremity. On its surface are 



324 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



Gorge and val 
ley of Atico. 



some patches of guano ; there are some rocks close to it. 
About 1J miles south of the point is a sunken rock on which 
the sea does not usually break at high water and in calm 
weather. To the northward of the point is a sheltered cove, 
convenient and clean, but as there is no inhabited place in 
its vicinity it is without importance. The bottom is of rock, 
with a depth of from 5 to 11 fathoms near the shore. 

The chain of barren and high mountains which follows 
the coast continues WKW. without interruption for 21 
miles, where it is cut by the gorge of Atico. The valley is 
cultivated ; there is a sufficient quantity of fresh water, and 
a settlement at the entrance. There is neither anchorage 
nor safe lauding ; the sea is rough, and the breakers com- 
mence a long distance from the shore. 
Point Atico. From the gorge the coast runs nearly east and west for 

4 miles, and is terminated by point Atico or Blanca ; its 
entire extfent is covered with peaks and hillocks which from 
a distance resemble islands, but they form a peninsula con- 
nected with the coast by a lo w, sandy rock. Their surface 
is covered with white and yellow patches of guano, which 
is taken in small vessels for the ag riculture of the neigh- 
boring valley. 
of In the northern part of the point is the excellent road- 
stead of Atico ; it is sheltered and clean, wi th from 9 to 11 
fathoms near the shore; boats can be beached easily. There 
are a few houses, aud a small traffic has been lately com- 
menced. During the war of independence it was used for 
landing and embarking troops designated for operations in 
the provinces to the southward. Caravel! is the most im- 
portant town of the vicinity. The south coast must not be 
closely approached after doubling the point, as some rocks 
above water are detached from it, but at short distances. 

Loboso point is 8 miles NW. of the r oadstead of Atico. 
It is low, stony, and projects but little ; its western extrem- 
ity consist of black rocks. It is covered with guano. 

The general direction of the coast for 21 miles is NW. to 

the small cove of Saguas, which has a depth of from 8 to 

14 fathoms 600 yards from the land. It is not sheltered 

from the heavy SW. swell, which often renders the beach 

inaccessible. A small gorge or dry bed of a torrent is seen 

in the ravine. 
portofchaia. From Saguas cove the coast inclines more to the west- 



Roadstead 

Atico. 



Loboso point. 



Saguas cove. 



PORT CHALA. 



325 



ward for 12f miles, to the new port of Ohala, which is a 
small cove with some rocks to windward of it. It is sub- 
ject to a continual swell, with a heavy surf on the shore. 
From October to March calms are frequent and of some du- 
ration. The bottom is rocky, with from 14 to 20 fathoms of 
water 1J miles from the landing. There is no shelter against 
the heavy SW. swell, and the holding-ground is bad. There 
are no resources, and fresh water is so far removed that it 
is expensive. 

Through this port there is a traffic, with some of the prov- 
inces of the departments of Ayacucho, Cuzco, and Are- 
quipa. It is the nearest port to the city of Cuzco. 

In the vicinity are some good mines of copper ; some have 
been worked. Metal is shipped to foreign countries without 
duty. According to the statements of competent persons 
these veins are good and abundant, but they have been al- 
most abandoned on account of the want of capital and 
workmen. 

About 8 miles WNW. of port Chala is the high and rocky chala point, 
point of Chala, projecting a little to the westward. It is 
formed by one of the hills which run out from Chala head, 
and is terminated by a conical hillock. 

Chala head, remarkable for its height, 3,740 feet, is near cnaiahead. 
the beach, is of a light color and convex form. Seen from 
the southward, it resembles large steps descending to the 
sea. It is visible from a great distance, and its position in 
regard to the remainder of the chain makes it appear iso- 
lated. During the rainy season its slopes are covered with 
vegetation. At its foot is the valley of Chala. 

From point Chala the coast runs to the northward, with Tanacacove. 
less inclination to the W., for 7 miles, to Tanaca cove, in 
which the depth is 7 to 8 fathoms 700 to 800 yards from the 
land. This cove offers no shelter, and the sea always breaks 
on the beach. Fresh squalls are often experienced. 

Atiquipa gorge -opens 3 J miles WNW. of Tanaca cove. Atiquipa gorge. 
It contains the river of the same name, and is cultivated to 
the sea. The shore in front of it is low aud sandy, and 
offers neither shelter nor landing, it being constantly beaten 
by the surf. The inhabitants live on their own produce and 
the trade with the interior. The climate is considered very 
healthy, and its pastures, which are celebrated, are favored 
with springs of excellent water and abound with cattle. 



326 



FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 



Valle y an d 
gorge of Lomas 
or ChaviBa. u & 



Point Lomas. 



ocopacove. From Atiquipa the coast trends WNW. for 2 miles, to 

Ocopa cove, which has a rocky bottom, with from 7 to 9 
fathoms J mile from the shore, where there is some cultiva- 
tion. The heavy swell renders the approach of the land 
dangerous, and there is no shelter for vessels. 

Lomas gorge, which opens 6 miles WNW. of Atiquipa, 
is broad, and the plain, which is inclosed by high mount- 
ains, is covered with vegetation. A rivulet runs through 
this valley. There is no anchorage or safe landing. The 
inhabitants live by agriculture; there are some few ex- 
portations from the neighboring provinces. This gorge and 
the preceding can be seen from a long distance. 
Point paquija. Point Paquija is 2 miles WNW. of Lamas gorge. It is 
high, of rocks, and projects but little. A reef, over which 
the sea breaks, runs out § mile to the westward of its 
extremity. 

The coast trends WNW. 10 miles to point Lomas; a low 
chain of hillocks forms the intermediate coast. Point Lomas 
is low at its junction with the laud, and high and rocky to 
seaward ; it resembles an island from a distance, and is 
surrounded by scattered rocks above water. 

On the N. side of point Lomas is Lomas road, the port of 
Acarl ; it affords a safe anchorage in its eastern indentation, 
500 to 600 yards from the land, in 7 to 11 fathoms of water, 
sandy bottom ; the SW. swell comes in, and the cove is 
subject to fresh gusts, rendering it necessary to enter under 
short sail and to anchor with a good scope of chain. There 
are some huts and store-houses on the shore. In the latter 
are stowed the produce for exportation, consisting of cotton, 
sugar, chancaca, rum, and aguardiente. In certain seasons 
of the year vessels come here to hunt the otter. It is a 
watering-place for the families of the town of Acari, 27 
miles distant. Families bring all their provisions, including 
water, with them ; the water of the wells being so brackish 
that it can hardly be used. The important hacienda of 
Ohocavento is 26 miles from the porfc, and gives rise to most 
of the traffic. 

The Andes are seen along all this part of the coast, in a 
continuous chain from 3,000 to 5,000 feet high. 

som°b?ero Lobos ° r ^' 5 ^° ^* °* P ort ^omas is tne small point of Sombrero, 
composed of high mountains running into the sea ; some 
high rocks are off it and the coast to the northward. They 



Port Lomas. 



J 

•s 

"a . 

S 

I 



Co 




1 ! 






DIRECTION BLUFF. 327 

are all near the land, and the sea breaks constantly over 
them. 

Direction bluff, the termination of a range of table-land, Direction Muff. 
is parallel and close to the sbore, 8 miles WNW. from 
Sombrero point ; all its upper part is a plateau which is 
most prominent to the northward; inclined cliffs descend 
from the edge of this plateau to the sea. Off this coast are 
some dark-colored islets and rocks about £ mile from the 
shore, extending as far as San Juan point. One of them is 
1 mile from the land, and lies S. 31° E., 2 miles from San 
Juan point. 

Point San Juan, 7 miles XW, by W. from Direction bluff, Point San juan. 
is very projecting, and is surmounted by two low hillocks 
with broad bases ; the outer one is the largest. When to 
the north and south of them, and near the land, they 
appear like islands, as the land which connects them with 
the continent is low. 

The point is surrounded by rocks, some of which are 
nearly awash, but the sea does not break over them ; the 
most distant are above water; they bear WSW. from the 
point, and extend about 1 mile to seaward. 

Point San Juan shelters the southed portion of the ex- Port of San 
cellent aud large port of Sau Juan. The anchorage is good Juan> 
in 8 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, near the SB. shore, where 
boats can land with ease. Vessels can be hove down here, 
but everything would have to be brought, even wood aud 
water, as none is found here, and the place is uninhabited. 

In order to enter the port of San Juan the reef should be Directions. 
passed at least 200 yards to the westward, aud the laud 
should not be approached closer until well inside of point 
San Juan, to the northward of which, at a short distance, 
is a sunken rock. Haul close to the wind, or tack, if neces- 
sary, to reach the anchorage. The uorth shore can be ap- 
proached closely, as it is steep to. This shore is formed of 
irregular broken cliffs, with a sandy plain at the head of 
the bay. The port can be recognized by the Morro de Acari. 

The Morro de Acari is N". 18° E. of point San Juan, in the Morro de Acari. 
middle of the shore of the cove. It is very remarkable aud 
can be readily recognized. There are several low mountains, 
to the northward of which is this isolated mountain ; it is 
1,050 feet high, and terminates in a sharp point. It has the 
form of a stone used for filtering water, with the opening 



328 FROM THE RIVER LOA TO CAPE NAZCA. 

underneath. A less elevated peak detaches itself to the 
northward, in which direction are high mountains in the 
interior. It is a splendid landmark for the port of San 
Juan or the bay of San Nicolas. 

Point San Ni- Point San Nicolas separates the port of San Juan from 
San Nicolas bay, and is N. 41° W. 8 miles from point San 
Juan ; close to its western extremity is a small island ; white 
and yellow spots, caused by thin coverings of guano, will be 
seen on the black rocks forming the point, which, with the 
island, is surrounded by low and dangerous rocks, the far- 
thest to seaward being about J mile to the northward, which 
necessitates caution when doubling this point to enter the 
bay of San Nicolas. 

Bay of san Ni- The point just described shelters the fine bay of San Nic- 
olas from the southward. There is a well -sheltered anchor- 
age near its south shore, in 7 to 12 fathoms, where the land- 
ing is good. As soon as the island off the point is cleared 
the coast can be hugged, as everything is clear inside. 
There is no permanent population, and the bay is only vis- 
ited by vessels which come to load cotton, cochineal, and 
other produce of the farms in the vicinity. There are nearly 
always piles of cotton bales on the shore ready for exporta- 
tion. There is no water or other resources either at the 
port or for a considerable distance. Landing is not so easy 
as in port San Juan, as there is no beach in the sheltered 
part. 

Tides. 1^ * s high water, full and change, at San Nicolas at 5 h 30 m f 

rise, 3 feet. 

Point Beware. Point Beware is the northern limit of the bay. It is N. 
49° W. from point San Nicolas. It is high, steep, of a dark 
color, and surrounded by rocks above water. 
Changuillo gorge is 11 miles NW. of point Beware. In it 

Changuillo » » » r 

gorge. there are some cultivated spots, and also a brook of fresh 

water. There is no anchorage or shelter in front of it, and 
theie is nearly always a heavy swell and a surf on the shore. 
The brig Hector, which took this for port Caballos, to which 
she was bound, anchored with two anchors and 80 fathoms 
on each chain, but the swell was so heavy that she was 
thrown on the rocks and totally lost. 

On all this coast from Atico to the bay of Independen- 
cia there are 50 fathoms 2 miles from the land. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

FROM CAPE NAZCA TO THE BAY OF CASMA. 
Variation from 10° 13' to 9° 45' easterly in 1876. Increasing annually about 1. 

Cape Nazca lies 4 miles NW. by W. from the gorge of capeNazca. 
Changuillo, and 1,020 feet above the level of the sea. At its 
foot are two hillocks of sand, one higher than the other, 
which terminate in a point. The high land of the promon- 
tory is of a dark color, which makes it appear as if a cap 
was thrown over it. The point can be closely approached, 
all the rocks off it being above water. 

Doubling to the K". of Cape Nazca there are two small Port cabaiios or 
points inside of a cove, which opens to the eastward; the 
lookout station situated on a hillock will also be seen; after 
passing the inside point, and when the mast at the lookout 
bears S. 61° 30' W. distant 300 yards, the anchor cau be 
dropped in 6 fathoms, bottom coarse sand. This is the most 
sheltered place and the best for shipping cotton ; the best 
landing is on the neighboring beach, near the rocks farthest 
to the eastward, on the weather side. 

It is desirable to anchor in port Caballos before 10 a. in., 
as the variable winds before that hour are favorable for 
entering ; later the fresh southerly winds commence. If the 
land should be made later, the port should be approached 
under short sail, and it will be prudent to reef the topsails, 
as the gusts in the cove are so heavy that care is uecessary 
even with these precautions ; the hue breeze near point 
Nazca must not be trusted ; it is quite different at the an- 
chorage. The wind which springs up every day between 
10 and 11 a. m. blows more or less strong until 8 or 9 p. in.; it 
then commences to die out, and is calm about midnight. 
These are the best hours for loading and discharging. Dur- 
ing the conjunction and opposition of the moon the wind 
often lasts through the night, when all communication with 
the shore is difficult and dangerous. The lookout mast 
must not be relied upon as a landmark, as it is a light stick, 
and may be carried away by any squall ; the position it oc- 
cupies on a small hill, separating the beaches of sand and 
rock, makes it a good distinguishing mark. 



330 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Ica river. 



Olleros point. 



Vessels should moor with a good scope on each chain, as 
the wind blows in gusts sufficiently heavy to try the best 
ground tackle.. 

The port is uninhabited, and is without resources. One hut 
and the ruins of an old store-house are the only buildings 
on the south shore. The bales of cotton are thrown on the 
shore and left without a permanent guard. This port is 
only frequented by vessels which export the cotton, cochi- 
neal, sweet wines, and other produce from the farms in the 
vicinity. 

Ica river empties 8 miles NW. of point Nazca, forming 
near the coast a narrow and tortuous opening, which can 
only be recognized at a short distance. Some green patches 
extend down to the sea ; it is inaccessible. 

The coast trends WNW. for 8 miles from the mouth of 
Ica river to Olleros point, which is low and sandy, with two 
small islets to the westward ; some few vessels which come 
to load the produce of the farms in the valley of Ica have 
anchored off its northern part in 7 to 9 fathoms, but the 
anchorage offers no security, and the heavy swell and surf 
have caused it to be abandoned. 

Maria. 16 ° f D ° fla The table 0f D0na Maria > 2 > 150 feet hi g Q > is m0re than 1 

mile inland and 4J miles from point Dona Maria. It is one 
of the most remarkable points on this coast, rising above a 
chain of mountains which trend NW. and SB. near the 
coast ; it is of a conical form, with a flat summit. 

Point Dona Maria is N. 79° W. from the mountain and 
N. 53° W. from point IsTazca. It is high, of rock, and of a 
dark color, with white guano beds at its foot. Its S.'and 
W. sides are surrounded by dark, pointed rocks, some of the 
westernmost of which lie 1 mile from the laud. 
lob infierniiios. Los Infiemillos is the name given to all the rocks off point 
Dona Maria. Among these is a small sugar-loaf shaped 
islet, the farthest to seaward from the point, and 54 feet 
above the level of the sea. There is no danger to seaward 
of the Infierniiios ; there are 53 fathoms 2 miles outside of 
them. The steamer Santiago, of the English company, ran 
bows on these rocks, and was only saved by her water-tight 
compartments and braces. 

The coast trends ET. for several miles, and then, turning to 
the NW., forms point Azua, 10 miles from point Santa Ma. 



Point Dofia 
Maria. 



Point Azua. 



M 



I 



Jo 






i 
i 

NO 
CO 

I 
2 






^3 



4 

r 



PS 



MORRO QUEMADO. 331 

ria. There is a steep hill at its end, and off it are several 
rocks. On the high mountains in the interior, which extend 
toward the sea, is a light belt, probably of guano, from 
point Santa Maria to a little to the northward of Azua. 

The height of Morro Qaemado, 2,070 feet, and its prox- Morro Que- 

° 7 7 mado. 

imity to the beach, render it very remarkable. After form- 
ing a small point which projects to the northward, it pre- 
sents an apparently plain black surface which is in reality 
inclined ; it is surmounted by a comb, which is its greatest 
elevation. It is the termination of the high, light-colored 
shore to the southward. 

The low, level, whitish islands of Santa Rosa are to the R ™ ands of Santa 
northward of Morro Quemado. There are some rocks and 
small islets near the shores of these islands, as also that of 
the main land. Should it be desirable to pass between them 
and the continent the south coast should be kept closer 
aboard than the northern one. 

The Serrate channel is § mile .wide, and separates the serrate chan- 

. nel 

islands of Santa Rosa from Morro Quemado. This passage is 
clear and safe, having from 14 to 20 fathoms of water. It 
leads to ludependencia bay. 

Las Viejas island is § mile NW. of the northern extremity Las viejas isi- 
of the northern Santa Rosa island, and is 3 J miles long SE. an 
and NW. The summit of this high island is on its south- 
ern part, from which it gradually descends toward the N". 
Between it and the Santa Rosa islands is a channel § mile 
wide, but so full of reefs as to leave no clear passage. The 
northern part of the island is clean, and can be approached 
to a short distance. A very remarkable conical hillock, 
separated from the high land, will be seen on the southern 
part. 

There is an excellent anchorage on the NE. coast in a 
small cove, protected from the northward by a small point. 
The depth is from 5 to 7 fathoms, 600 yards from the shore. 
Large quantities of guano are found on the hill off this an- 
chorage ; the beds are increased by the birds and marine 
animals which have abandoned the Ghincha islands. It is 
not inhabited. 

The islands Viejas and Santa Rosa, and the heights of independent 
the Morro Quemado, form the SSE. and E. boundaries of 
the large bay ludependencia, which extends NW. and SE. 



332 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

12 J miles ; with a width NE. and SW. of 2Jto 4 miles. The 
bottom is of rock everywhere excepting in its southern part, 
where it is of coarse sand ; the depth is from 8 to 20 fath- 
oms. The best anchorages for protection against the strong 
winds are in the bight in its southern part, and on the NB. 
shore of Las Yiejas. 

Until the year 1825 this bay was unknown ; it was dis- 
covered by two vessels, the Dardo and the Trujillana, with 
troops for Pisco, entering it by mistake ; the vessels were 
wrecked and many perished. This mistake and error in the 
reckoning was very probably due to a southerly current 
setting through the Boqueron de San Gallan. 

The bay has two entrances, one by the Serrate channel, 
and the other, called Trujillana, to the northward of the 
island las Viejas ; when coming from the southward the 
first channel is the shortest, but it is also the narrowest j 
the Trujillana is 4J miles wide ; both are equally clean. In 
entering the bay the same precaution should be taken as 
on entering the bay of Caballos, as it is equally subject to 
violent gusts. The best and widest passage is close along 
the north coast of the island Yiejas. There are generally a 
few huts of fishermen, who come here temporarily, on the 
east side, at a village called Tun go ; they bring all their pro- 
visions, and even water, from lea, the capital of the province 
The bay owes its name to its being the first anchorage of 
the transports carrying the united army, which, under com- 
mand of general San Martin, proclaimed the independence 
of Perti. 

Tides - It is high water, full and change, in Ind^pendencia bay at 

9 h 50 m ; rise, 4J feet. 

Mountains of The mountains of Garrasco, 3,000 feet high, rise toward 

Carrasco. ' ' ° ' 

the eastern part of the bay. 
carretaa mount- The Oarretas mountains, forming the northern boundary 
of Independencia bay, are 1,410 feet high ; they present the 
appearance of a rocky promontory which descends to the 
southward in steps, and terminates in a point with an island 
a short distance off it. The entrance, called la Trujillana, 
opens between this point and the island Yiejas. When to 
the eastward of this group of mountains, a dark-colored de- 
tached hill, very abrupt, is seen, which increases in height 
to the northward ; at its highest point it has a rectangular- 



ams. 



MOUNT WILSON. 



333 



shaped cut ; on it there are bright patches of guano. The 
junction of these mountains forms a peninsula which con- 
nects with the continent to the northward. 

The coast continues high, abrupt, and of a dark color for Mount wagon. 
6 miles in a northerly direction. Mount Wilson, 1,420 feet 
high, lies close to the coast, 4£ miles north of Oarretas head; 
here the coast commences to fall, forming a spacious cove, 
which terminates 10 miles north of mount Wilson. 

Zarate islet is in the middle of this coast, about 1 mile zarate iaiet. 
from the shore ; its upper part is almost level, and its sides 
nearly perpendicular ; its color is a dark yellow with black 
patches ; on it there are some beds of guano. 

Salinillo cove is to the northward of a small point on the saunuio cove. 
same parallel, and to the eastward of Zarate island ; it is 
without shelter, has a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms ^ of a 
mile from the laud, and bottom of rock and coarse sand. 
The best anchorage is to the eastward of the small islands 
which lie to the northward of Zarate. 

The beach is continually beaten by the surf, and it is not 
prudent to use ships' boats for lauding. It is the harbor of 
export for the salt mines of Pisco, about 2 miles in the in- 
terior. The salt is brought alongside in lighters. There is 
no permanent population, the people who ship the salt com- 
ing with it. 

From Salinillo cove the coast runs north for 4 miles, then p om t Huacas. 
west, and is terminated by point Huacas, which is nearly 
black, high and abrupt ; its upper outline is an obtuse angle 
whose shorter side forms the western limit of the coast de- 
scribed ; the other side is prolonged, and descends gradually 
to the SE. 

Lechuza mountain, a short distance in the interior, is 
1,580 feet high ; it is of a light color, with a pointed summit. 

From point Huacas to Paracas point the coast trends to Paracas point 
the north a little easterly. All this part is high, formed by 
high mountains of a dark color. A vessel can approach it 
as near as desirable. There are a few rocks above water 
close to this point, and to the eastward of it is a cove with 
an anchorage in 6 to 11 fathoms. 

From this cove the coast continues high and trends to the point Ripio. 
eastward, terminating in point Ripio. From thence it trends 
to the southward for 3J miles. 



Lechuza mount 
ain. 



334 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Three crosses. On the inclined plain which forms the hills between the 
two last-described points are three enormous crosses, per- 
fectly executed ; their origin is unknown. They are formed 
of a large wall of white stone, following the inclination of 
the mountain from near the coast to its summit. When op- 
posite to it it has the appearance of a chandelier with, three 
branches and a foot. They stand out uniformly and per- 
fectly against the dingy tinge of the mountains. 

The peninsula of Paracas is the highland and mountains 
described, comprised between the cove east of point Huacas 
and the western coast of Paracas cove. It is united with 
the continent to the SE. by a sand plain 4 miles wide. 

San Gallan island, 1,365 feet high, is 2J miles from the 
peninsula of Paracas ; it extends IW. and SE. 2J miles . 
It is high, barren, and of a light color. Its profile is a con- 
vex curve whose extremities and center are most prominent 
and the most convex. This part is generally covered by a 
horizontal belt of fog, which is dispersed as soon as the wind 
called the Paraca, of which it is considered the precursor, 
sets in. 

The island is surrounded by some small islets, some of 
• which are a short distance from its northern shore, one of 
them resembling a ten-pin. Guano is found on different 
points of the island. 

San Gallan is nearly always the land-fall of vessels bound 
for Oallao, after doubling cape Horn, coming from Australia 
or the coast of Chile. 

Pineiro rock. Pineiro rock lies 1 \ miles S. 4° E. from the S. extreme of 
San Gallan island ; it is just awash, and with a smooth sea 
can be seen, but when blowing hard, with a weather tide, the 
confused cross-sea fills the channel with foam and renders 
it difficult to distinguish the rock. It is much in the way 
of vessels entering through the Boqueron de San Gallan. 

Boqjieron de The Boqueron de San Gallan separates the island of San 
Gallan from the peninsula of Paracas. The depth varies 
from 20 to 30 fathoms near the shore. Vessels coming from 
theS. and wishing to pass through this channel must keep 
close to point Huacas, keeping nearer to this coast than to 
that of San Gallan until Pineiro rock is passed, when the 
middle of the channel can be taken or the island approached 






TRES MARIAS ISLETS. 



335 



Tres 
islets. 



Marias 



in order to avoid the calms caused by the high lands to the 
southward. 

Lieut. A. Miller, TJ. S. X., remarks that, from the experi- Current. 
ence on board the U. S. S. Richmond aud Omaha, a constant 
southerly current seems to set through the Boquerou de San 
G-allan, and that this is also the experience of several of the 
captains of the P. S. N. Co.'s steamers. 

The name of Tres Marias islets is given to three islets in 
the northern part of the Boquerou. The southern one is 
about 3 miles from point Paracas; their general direction is 
nearly N. and S. 

The island of Ballesta, li miles to the northward of the island and isieu 

' a of Ballesta. 

Tres Marias, is of moderate height, and pierced at its south- 
ern extremity, forming a natural bridge. Two islets of the 
same height lie near it. All are covered with a thick bed 
of guano, which is now being taken away. There is an an- 
chorage on their NE. side, in 18 to 20 fathoms, 300 yards 
distant. Landing is generally difficult. 

Salcedo rock, 3 feet under water at low tide, is L mile S. Salcedo rock « 
\ E. from the SE. extremity of the southern Ballesta island. 
Near its base the summit of the northern Ballesta is seen 
between the other islands, whose tops are a little more in- 
dented. The sea seldom breaks over this rock. 

At 4^ miles to the eastward of Ballesta is Blauca island, Bianca island, 
also called Noviilo, of moderate height, aud of a whitish 
color, from the beds of guauo. Near it is a small islet of 
the same height. All these islands are clear, excepting Sal- 
cedo rock. The depth is not less than 13 fathoms near them, 
and 800 yards to leeward of Ballesta there are from 25 to 
30 fathoms. 

The spacious and excellent bay of Paracas is to the SE. Paracas bay. 
of point Ripio. The bight runs 4 miles S., and is 2J miles 
wide, with from 6 to 11 fathoms at the entrance, diminish- 
ing inside; the bottom is mud. It is one of the most con- 
venient anchorages of this part of the coast. There are 
some huts inhabited by fishermen on the east shore. The 
best anchorage is off these, § mile from the beach, in 4J to 
5 fathoms ; near the shore the water is shoal. In the vicinity 
are some wells of fresh water, which can be taken aboard 
in casks or by small crafts having a long hose and pump. 
There are no resources, and the inhabitants live by fishing 



336 FBOM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

and watering vessels. There is no tide, heavy swell, or 
surf in this bay. 

The low and sandy shores have some wooded patches. 
The army under General San Martin effected its first land- 
ing at this place. 

Vessels wishing ballast can procure it at point Eipio, as 
they anchor close to, and take it aboard in their boats. 
San Andres. The small fishing village of San Audres is 4J miles to the 
northward of Paracas; it is visited as a watering-place 
during the summer. 
portofPiaco. All of this bay embraced between the island San Gallan, 
the peninsula of Paracas, and the coast running from it to 
the ET. and E., constitute the bay of Pisco ; but the port of 
Pisco is 5J miles N. 76° E. from Blanca island. It affords 
no shelter whatever against the almost continual SW. 
swell. The best anchorage and most convenient place for 
loading and discharging is to the SW. of the wharf, 400 
yards from its extremity, in 4 fathoms. Vessels drawing 
more than 19 feet must anchor a little farther out, with the 
church bearing ET. 87° E. 

From 11 o'clock a. m. until sunset there is a regular and 
fresh wind, known as the Paracas, as it comes from the bay 
of that name ; then all work has to be suspended, as the 
boats cannot pass to and from the shore. Vessels should 
not anchor with less than 45 fathoms of chain. 

The space between the commencement of the breakers 
and the shore is called the tasca; in this port, as also in 
the others on the coast of Peru, with a heavy surf it is 
more than 500 yards. 

Pisco has a fine pier, built of iron, with a wooden plat- 
form running out 733 yards into 3| fathoms of water. 

Boats can land alongside of this pier in all weather, as 
the sea never breaks at the steps. In the afternoon, how- 
ever, landing is difficult for small boats on account of the 
heavy swell which sets through the piles. On either side 
of the mole is the custom-house aud the office of the cap- 
tain of the port. 
Light> On the end of the mole is a harbor-light 46 feet above the 

level of the sea. It is fixed, red, visible 3 miles, and serves 
to indicate the landing and the anchorage. 






PORT OF PISCO. 337 

Vessels coming from the southward bound to the bay of Directions. 
Pisco and the Chincha islands should make the land in the 
vicinity of cape and mount Carretas, keeping account of 
the westerly current which sets off the coast at the rate of 
about 15 miles a day; then steer for the Boqueron de San 
Gallan, keeping a lookout for the Piiieiro rock, in the 
vicinity of which there is an irregular sea and eddies. Point 
Paracas should not be approached too close, as some shoals 
have been reported to the northward of it. It should be 
kept distant 1 short mile, and steer for Blanca island ; pass 
close to southward of it, and steer for the church. 

The coast can be easily recognized from seaward by the 
island of San Gallan, with the peninsula of Paracas back 
of it; the latter also appears as an island from the difference 
in height compared with the laud near it, which cannot be 
seen at so great a distance. When closer, the Chincha and 
Ballesta islands come in sight, after which any of the chan- 
nels, excepting that between the Ballestas and Tres Marias, 
can be taken. 

When coming from the north there is no danger to be 
avoided. After doubling the Chincha islands a course can 
be steered for the anchorage, always remembering that the 
depth rapidly decreases toward Blanca island, but there is 
no danger. 

Loading and discharging the produce of the country is Description 
done by means of boats, which are hauled on the beaches 
off the store-houses on the south side ; they are held by a 
hawser, one end of which is anchored and the other fast on 
shore. 

The town of Pisco is on an elevation § mile from the sea. 
The principal church, with two white towers, can be easily 
distinguished, and is an excellent mark for the port. Pro- 
visions and fruits can be had in abundance. Water can be 
taken from an iron pipe which is on one side of the dock. 
On the beach there are a few warehouses and stores. 

Pisco is the principal port of the coast province of lea, 
whose capital is 42 miles distant. A railroad has been built 
between the two places. The telegraph communication 
extends to Lima. 

Large exportations are made from this port, consisting of 
spirits of wine in jars of baked earth called botijas and 



338 PEOM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

2)iscos, sugar of different qualities, wine, cotton, beans, dates, 
and other produce. 

The department of Ayacucho and part of that of Huan- 
cavelica export from Pisco the wool of the sheep and 
vicuna, precious metals, and other articles of industry. 

The reputation of the wine of Pisco is gradually increasing 
in the United States and in Europe. The modern processes 
of making wine are used with great success in the large 
establishments of Pisco and lea. This branch of industry 
has increased from year to year, and it will undoubtedly 
become the largest of this province. The most commonly 
known wines are the Falconi, Ledos, Latorre, Elias, &c. 
The production of sugar and cotton increases yearly. 

This port is the principal one for the importation of for- 
eign merchandise into the province lea, Ayacucho, and Hu- 
ancavelica. A railroad is being built from Lima to connect 
with that of lea at Pisco, which will cross the rich valleys 
of Canete and Ghincha. 

Pisco river. About 2J miles N. of the store-houses at Pisco a water- 

course or torrent, called Pisco river, empties. It has an 
abundance of water in the summer, but is completely dry in 
the winter. 

Heights of cau- The heights of Caucato rise from the beach to the north- 
ward of the river Pisco ; they are the only ones near the sea 
in this latitude. 

Port of caucato. The name of port Caucato is given to a small bight in the 
coast to the northward of the heights. It is generally used 
for shipping the produce from the farms of Caucato, and for 
landing the machinery and guano used on them. The aD- 
chorage is without shelter; a heavy swell sets in, and the 
surf hinders boats from landing. The loading and discharg- 
ing is generally done by lighters from Pisco; there are no 
inhabitants. The depth, 1 mile from the land, is 4 to 5 fath- 
oms. 

vaiieys of con- The fine valleys of Condor and Chincha commence beyond 
the Caucato heights. Their numerous fine farms cau be 
seen from the ocean. The principal produce is sugar-cane, 
cotton, the vine, vegetables of all descriptions, and fruits. 

chincha river. From the heights of Caucato the coast continues to the 
north, low, with a sandy beach, for 9 miles, to Chincha river, 
which is generally well supplied with water from January 






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PORT TA3IBO DE MORA. 339 

to May, but is nearly dry at its mouth, during the remainder 
of the year. 

Port Tambo de Mora, a new port, is immediately to tlie M £ r a rt Tamb0 de 
northward of the mouth of the river Chincha. It is used 
for shipping wine, cotton, sugar, vegetables, and other pro- 
duce from the valley of Chincha. 

The best landmark for this port is the limit of the valley 
or low beach. It is 1 mile south of the cliffs; its depth is 
3J to 5 fathoms, over muddy bottom, J mile from the land. 
There is no shelter against the SW. swell. It is not prudent 
to use ships' boats without knowing the tasca or the state of 
the bar. There are always some small vessels at the an- 
chorage taking in provisions and fruits for Callao. The 
Mouses of the settlement on the beach will be seen ; there is 
a telegraph station connected with the capital. 

The valley of Chincha abounds in all kinds of fowl, fruits, 
and fresh provisions, which can be had at low prices, but 
water is expensive and hard to take on board. 

Many accidents have taken place in this port on account 
of the imprudent use of ships' boats. 

The Chincha group of islands takes its name from the chincha islands. 
valley on whose parallel it is. It is composed of three prin- 
cipal islands, named Xorth, Middle, and South, according to 
their position. 

These islands were uninhabited and without importance, 
when the national government comprehended the great 
value of the guano they contained and commenced to take 
advantage of it. Since then the guano beds have been the 
principal source of wealth of the state, and the guano has 
been sold for the benefit of the government. The great su- 
periority of the guano of the Chinchas is due to the total 
absence of rain, the ammonia, one of its principal elements, 
being thus preserved in all its strength. 

The beds of the Xorth and Middle islands are exhausted, 
and only some thousands of tons of guano were left on the 
South island in 1870. In 1872 the shipment of guano to 
Europe was stopped. 

The guano used in the country is only taken away by Pe- 
ruvian vessels, speculators having no other remuneration 
than the cost of the freight. The vessels must get the 
necessary permission at Pisco and take the officer, who ac- 
companies the cargo to its destination, on board. 



340 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Directions. 



North if'aud. 



It is also prohibited to foreign vessels to go directly to 
these islands. They must get permission and the order to 
load at Oallao. After having loaded, they must return to 
this port to get their papers for the port of destination. 

The vessels are loaded in their turns as they arrive by 
means of hose which lead from the cliffs to the holds of the 
vessels. The vessels whose first turn it is to load must 
furnish water to the island, as they have none. 

The islands are commanded by a special governor ap- 
pointed by the general government. There is also a captain 
of the port and some lower officials. Most of the guano 
was gotten out by Chinamen. 

In going to the Chinchas from Callao it is recommended 
to stand off the land during tjie night and near it during 
the day, until to the southward of the 13th degree of lati- 
tude, and then 4 to 5 miles from the coast to Pisco. In the 
autumn Captain Harvey, E. X., recommends running 26 hours 
to seaward and 22 toward the land ; at the end of 48 hours 
the vessel will be to windward of San Gallan. 

The currents around the Chinchas are very uncertain, 
and often set to the northward 1J miles an hour. 

North island is in latitude 13° 38' 12" S., and longitude 
76° 22' 55" W., and 11 miles K 64° W. from the port of 
Pisco. The island is formed of rocks, whose surfaces were 
entirely covered by guano. The beds were in some places 
100 feet thick. The island is 108 feet high, about 1,592 
yards long, and from 700 to 800 yards wide. 

The principal anchorage is in 11J to 26 fathoms near the 
land ; rocky bottom. It is necessary to approach as near 
as possible, so as not to be in too great a depth. Men-of- 
war had best anchor on the east side, in order to escape the 
immense quantity of dust which is blown to leeward by the 
Paraca during working-hours. As before stated, this wind 
is very fresh, and blows every day from ten or eleven a. m. 
to sunset, and sometimes, though rarely, until nine or ten 
o'clock in the evening. 

Some sunken rocks extend 300 yards from the two points 
which form the extremities of the principal cove on the JS". 
coast. The NW. rock, said to be covered by 6 feet of water, 
was searched for by Commander Marq-Saint-Hilaire, of the 
French navy, but not found, even with the aid of the pilots ; 



CHLNCHA ISLANDS. 



341 



the SE. rock is covered by 7 feet of water. Near the first 
is a shoal in 2| fathoms, which was found by the Com- 
mander St. Hilaire. These have been marked by red buoys ; 
the danger will be cleared by keeping the east point of 
Middle island open of the SE. point of North island until 
the NW. rock commences to open from the latter island. 

The relative bearing of these two shoals is S. 50° E. and 
N. 50° W., 284 yards apart. 

The buildings on the island are the dwellings of the 
authorities. 

Numerous coasters from Pisco and Tambo de Mora trade 
here in fruits and fresh provisions, which are sold at mod- 
erate prices ; but water is expensive, as it has to be brought 
from Paracas. 

Middle island is separated from North island by a channel Middle island, 
of an average breadth of J mile. There is a good anchorage 
in the entire channel, the holding-ground being the best in 
the vicinity. The bottom is of rock, and the depth near 
the shores from 9 to 14 fathoms. Vessels can enter or leave 
by either end of the channel. The rocks are visible and 
near the shores. 

In 18 to 19 fathoms there is a bottom of white sand and 
shells. A vessel must always anchor either a little east or 
west of the hose, to avoid the dust brought by the Paraca. 

South island is separated from Middle island by a chan- south island. 
nel J of a mile broad. This channel is a bad anchorage, 
and has in it some scattered rocks. In its center it is shoal, 
and cannot, therefore, be used by large vessels. Attention 
must be paid to a reef of rocks which makes out from the 
E. side of this island 400 yards ; the sea does not always 
break over it. The reef consists of two parts, having a pas- 
sage between them. 

Lieutenant Janet. French navy, discovered another reef, 
with 2 fathoms of water over it, 1,120 yards S. 7° W. from 
the east point of the middle Chincha, and 164 yards N. 40° 
E. from the east breaker of South island. 

The best anchorage is at the E. entrance of the channel. 
The western end is contracted, as its center is obstructed 
by rocks, leaving room for only a small number of vessels. 
This island is at present the only one containing guano 5 it 
is loaded by means of lighters, which receive their guano 



342 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



•Goleta islet. 



■Canete valley, 



Point Fraile 



Port 
Azul. 



from the wharf or hose, at different points. There are some 
few small, high islets to the westward. The S W. part is so 
full of rocks that it cannot be approached. 

Goleta islet belongs to this group, and is 1,526 yards SW. 
of South island. It owes its name to its resemblance to a 
schooner under sail. It is 170 feet high, and surrounded 
by some scattered rocks on which the sea breaks. There is 
another small islet 872 yards to the SSE. of it. 

Passing Chincha valley, the barren coast runs north with 
a little inclination to the westward, with cliffs from 425 to 
530 feet high, with elevated mountains in the interior. One 
of the best cultivated valleys of the coast of Peru, called 
Caiieta, is 24 miles from Chincha valley. The high mount- 
ains divide here, and show the plantations extending from 
the sea to the horizon in the interior ; in the midst of the 
varied colors of the vegetation are houses and factories. 
The principal production is the sugar-cane, which yields the 
best sugar of Peru, as also large quantities of chancaca and 
rum. Of these there is a considerable export, especially to 
Chile, California, and Australia. The valley abounds in 
vegetables, fruits, fowl, and cattle. 

Caneta river empties near the southern limit of the val- 
ley. From January to May, it has plenty of water ; during 
the remainder of the year there is but little at its mouth, it 
being used in irrigating the farms. The surf is too danger- 
ous to allow landing opposite the valley. 

Close to the northern limit of the valley is a small isolated 
mountain of moderate height ; its inland part forms an ele- 
vated hillock, while that to seaward is a steep, rocky hill, 
covered with a white deposit; its prolongation is point 
Fraile or Cerro Azul, which can be easily recognized by the 
blue color of the small hill. 
of cerro The coast to the northward of point Fraile forms a cove 
called the port of Cerro Azul. The anchorage is insecure ; 
the bottom is of rock, and the SW. swell is always felt. 
Vessels can anchor on an E. and W. bearing, % mile distant 
from the hill, in from 5 to 7 fathoms. Fitz Eoy gives 
another anchorage farther out in 7 fathoms, § mile NW. by 
W. of the hills. 

Boats must land on the beach in front of the store-houses, 
to leeward of the point. There is a wooden dock which 



Canete river 



CA^ETE. 343 

offers some facilities. It belongs to the proprietor of the 
factories of la Quebrada and Casa Blanca, and was con- 
structed by him, as was also the railroad to the different 
farms and the facilities for the exportation of the produce. 

The town at the head of the cove is small. Fresh provis- 
ions and fruits can be obtained there, or at the settlement of 
Cahete, 5 miles distant. The principal commerce consists in 
the exportation of sugar, chancaca, liquor, rum, alcohol, cot- 
ton, and other less important produce of the valley; there is 
telegraphic communication with the capital. 

The town of Cahete, the capital of the province of the Canute. 
same name, and its commercial center, is 5 miles in the in- 
terior; it has an extensive traffic with the towns in the 
vicinity. 

Point Loberia is 5 J miles to the northward of Cerro Azul. Point Loberia. 
It projects but little, and has three rocks above water off 
its extremity, which form a small cove to the northward of 
no importance. 

Point Malpaso de Asia is 9 miles to the northward of Po^t Maipaso 
point Loberia ; it is small, steep, and extends out from a 
sand-beach. 

Asia island, toward the NW., about 1 mile from the coast, Asia island. 
is in shape of a tent, and of a light color, due to a thin cov- 
ering of guano. It is surrounded by small islets, the north- 
ernmost of which reach to the coast. 

Chocalla point is 3 miles to the northward of Asia island ; Cil0calla P oint ' 
it is of black rock with white spots of guano, and projects 
but little. To leeward of it is a cove, in which there is no 
convenient landing on account of the surf. 

This cove is limited to the northward by the height of za f eigbt of Sal " 
Salzar, which is near the coast and 532 feet above the sea. 

The river Mala, which is but a rivulet, after watering a , R^er ani vai- 

7 ' ° lev of Mala. 

small valley, discharges 1J miles X. of the height of Salzar. 
Landing here is dangerous on account of the surf. 

The coast for S miles to the IW. is formed by low cliffs caiavera head, 
bordered by sand-beaches as far as the isolated hill Caia- 
vera, which is of black rock with white patches ; its west- 
ern side is nearly perpendicular, and terminates in a sharp 
point. 

This coast runs nearly WXW. to a point of rocks which Point chiica. 



344 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO OASMA BAY. 



Port CMlca. 



Tides. 



Lurin. 



descends to the sea gradually, and is terminated by a small 
hillock, 298 feet high, named Ohilca. 

From point Ghilca the coast runs to the northward 2 
miles, and forms the port of Chilca. An island, which is to 
the north and close to the coast, is free from dangers. The 
port is small, the best anchorage being between the islet 
and the east shore, in 5} to 14 fathoms. Some rocks above 
water extend 200 yards from the east point, which is within 
the entrance of the port. The water is generally shoal to a 
distance of 140 to 160 yards. 

The settlement of Ohilca is 1 mile from the anchorage ; it 
is small and supplies are scarce $ water is brought from 
wells at some distance, and most of the inhabitants are em- 
ployed in the salt mines, whose products are sold in the 
valleys of Lima. From January to May they cultivate land 
toward the interior, and raise sufficient to last them through 
the year. 

It is high water, full and change, at Chilca at 5 h 30 m ; 
rise, 4 feet. 

The settlement of Lurin is 12 miles to the northward and 
J of a mile from the coast. There is anchoring ground in 
all this bight of the coast 1 mile from the land, in 7 to 10 
fathoms. Vessels can anchor the same distance off the town 
in 5 fathoms, but there is no shelter, a heavy SW. swell, 
and a surf that often renders landing impossible. This set- 
tlement possesses a river with an abundance of water in the 
summer ; during the remainder of the year but little flows 
to the sea, it being used for irrigating the farms. Vegeta- 
bles, cotton, and sugar-cane are raised ; fruits, cattle, and 
fowl are abundant. As the temperature of Lurin is excellent 
and healthy, it serves as one of the watering places of Lima. 
Pachacamac isi- Pachacamac island is J mile long, 200 yards wide, and 
400 feet high $ it is If miles from the shore and in the cen- 
ter of Lurin cove. Its profile is regular, and it is covered 
with thin beds of guano. It lies NW. and SE. 

The two small islets, San Francisco and Sauce, are to the 
southward of Pachacamac island and close to it. They are 
rendered inaccessible by the heavy breakers. One of them 
resembles a rounded sugar-loaf. 

Corcovado reef is 1 mile south of these islets. It is about 
1 mile long and formed of scattered rocks, over which the 



Islets of San 
Francisco and 
Sauce. 



Corcovado reef 



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CHORRILLOS BAY. 



345- 



Viuda rocks. 



Beach of Ccn- 
chan. 



Solar point. 



Solar bay and 
hill. 



sea breaks. It must be looked out for when going into 
Lurin. 

About i mile X. of Pachacamac are the two Viuda rocks : 
the sea breaks on them. The general direction of all these 
islets and rocks is NW. and SE. The channel between 
them and the coast is without danger, but subject to a 
heavy swell. 

From Lurin the coast continues to the northward, with a 
low, sandy beach, and high mountains in the interior. 
Landing is impossible for 10 miles, on account of the surf. 
This stretch of coast is called the beach of Conchan. Fish 
is abundant, and they are caught by the Chorillanos with 
hook thrown from the beach. 

Conchan beach is terminated to the northward by point 
Solar, which is rocky and descends gradually to the sea. 
There is an islet a short distance from it. and in its vicinity 
are several rocks, on which the sea always breaks ; it is 
covered with a light coat of guano. 

Solar bay, limited by a hill of the same name, is to the 
northward of the point just described. The hill is a mass 
of blue rock, visible for a long distance; one of the spurs, 
running toward the sea, is 855 feet high, and has the 
appearance of an island when seen from the southward. 

There is another bight, called Salto del Fraile, between 
the northern part of the hill and point Choriilos. The 
anchorage in both is 600 yards from the beach, in from 5 to 
9 fathoms ; but there is no shelter, and landing is often 
impossible. The point separating the two coves is called 
El Codo. 

Chorrillos point is to the north of the cove of el Salto del 
Fraile ; it projects from a mountain close to the north of 
Solar hill, called el Salto del Fraile. The surf continually 
beats on the rocks, which extend a short distance from it. 

From Chorrillos point the coast forms the long and spa- chorrillos bay 
cious cove of Chorrillos, completely surrounded by high, 
steep cliffs, which are very close to the edge of the sea. 
From the point these cliffs take a little turn to the east, 
and then trend north with a small inclination to the west- 
ward. Their profile is nearly horizontal, and they descend 
gradually farther north. 

The best anchorage off Chorrillos is 600 yards from the 



ChonHlof in1 



346 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Tides. 



El Barranco. 



Jliraflores. 



land, a little to leeward of the point as it commences to come 
in line with the extremity of the hill. The depth is 6 to 7 
fathoms, bottom gravel and rock, in some places mixed with 
sand. The barracks situated on the heights will bear S. 74° 
E. Fitz Eoy's advice is to keep point Oodo open of point 
Chorrillos and anchor in 8 to 9 fathoms, as there is less 
swell than farther in. M. Le Olerc, from his soundings, gave 
the same anchorage as Captain Garcia. If several days 
should be passed in this place, it is best to moor head and 
stern, with the head to SSW., to stem the swell. 

There is a wooden wharf in the cove to leeward of the 
point, which is the best landing-place. At the shore end of 
the wharf is a quay on which the bathing-houses are placed, 
outside of the wharf. An easy pair of stairs leads from this 
quay to the upper part of the ravine ; half way up it divides 
into two branches, leading to different points of the town of 
Chorillos, and terminates in agreeable promenades on the 
cliffs. The town is on the plain at a little distance. It is 
frequented by the families of Lima from January to the end 
of April, but the baths are taken all the year round. It has 
fine buildings, and there are an abundance of supplies. 

The town is connected with the capital by a telegraph 
and a railroad 9 miles long. It is lighted by gas. 

Water was formerly obtained from the ravine of Agua 
Duice, a little to the northward j at present it is conducted 
through the town by pipes. 

It is high water, full and change, at Chorrillos at 6 h ; rise, 
1J feet. 

The settlement and church of El Barranco is at the edge 
of the elevated plateau, 1J miles north of Chorrillos, where 
a small gorge divides the coast ; it is a watering-place with 
few resources ; landing here is dangerous. 

The village of Miranores, also a watering-place, is 2 miles 
farther to the northward. Its buildings can be plainly seen 
from Chorrillos. Beautiful gardens are cultivated around 
the dw ellings in the town. As a country-place it is supe- 
rior to Chorrillos, but inferior as a watering-place. There 
is no convenient landing, as the swell is continuous. There 
are 4 to 5 fathoms J mile from the land. It is one of the 
stations of the railroad between Chorrillos and Lima, 



SAX LORENZO ISLAND. 347 

La Horada islet takes its name from being pierced from LaHoradada. 
one side to the other; it lies off the center of Chorrillos bay 
N. 72^ W. of Solar hill and S. 76^ AY. of Miraflores. It is 
70 feet high and surrounded by rocks, the outermost of 
which are about 400 yards from it. At £ mile from it there 
is no danger. Close to it there is a small islet. 

The cliffs which surround the cove of Chorrillos continue Point caiiao. 
to the northward of Miraflores, their direction being nearly 
NW. by TV. for 7 miles, where they gradually descend to a 
low beach. A tongue of sand and stones extends to the 
SAY. for 1J miles, and forms point Callao. It is covered 
with bathing-houses, which are frequented during the sum- 
mer; the communication with Callao being facilitated by 
horse-cars. 

The name of La Mar Brava is given to the beach between La Mar Brava - 
Miraflores and point Callao, the heavy surf rendering it 
inaccessible the greater part of the time. The depth is 2J 
to 3 fathoms J mile from the beach. 

San Lorenzo island is separated from Callao point by a an s d anLorenzois1 ' 
channel of 2J miles. The island extends 4§ miles XYT. and 
SE., and its greatest breadth is If miles. Its greatest height 
is on the northern third of the island, about 1,284 feet. It is 
mountainous, barren, and terminates to the X\Y. in a steep, 
black-colored cliff called El Cabezo. When doubling it to 
the eastward, it is best to keep at a good distance to avoid 
calms. The upper sails must also be watched, as the sudden 
gusts may endanger the top-gallant masts. A very small 
point, with some rocks above water, extends 200 yards to 
the XW. from El Cabezo, (cape San Lorenzo.) 

From the light-house placed on the Cabezo, an octagonal Light-house: 

lat. 12 3 04' 00" S • 

wooden tower, 60 feet high, is exhibited a fixed white light, long. 77= 16' 30 7 ' 

4S0 feet above the level of the sea, visible 12 miles. It is 

not visible between the bearing 5T. 25- W. and N. 60° W., 

being hidden by the peak. Just open on the latter bearing 

it leads through the Boqueron channel in 4J fathoms. It 

frequently happens that the light is obscured by the fog, or 

may appear through it as a star. 

Dock cove is on the north side of the island, one-third of Dock cove. 
the distance from the Cabezo to the eastern end. A float- 
ing dock sank in this place after having received the frigate 
Apurimac. The place of the accident is 371 yards east of 



Palominosislets. 



348 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

the factory buildings ; it must be avoided in going through 
the Boqueron. This cove is a good anchorage ; in 5 ito 8 fath- 
oms. There are on the shore some fishermen's huts, the 
ruins of a factory, and a two-story house designed for the 
men on the dock. There is no fresh water on the island. 

There is also good anchorage in the different coves of that 
part of the island which faces the bay of Callao. Tempo- 
rary wharves have been built in some, for loading the gran- 
ite of the island, which is used in Callao. 

Fronton island. Fronton is an island 600 yards long and 503 feet high, 
lying off the SE. point of San Lorenzo island, with a chan- 
nel between them 800 yards in width, but practicable only 
for boats, and these only by keeping close to the point of 
San Lorenzo. Six hundred yards to the NW. of Fronton is 
an islet, called, from its shape, Round island ; between it and 
Fronton is a reef with several rocky islets. 

The Palominos islets, 140 feet high, lie WSW. of the south- 
ern extremity of San Lorenzo; the outermost are If miles 
from the south extremity of the island, those nearest to the 
shore are J mile, and all the rocks surrounding them are above 
water, the sea breaking over them; the guano they contain 
gives them a white and yellowish color. The channel which 
separates these islands is clear, and more than 1 mile wide. 

Bay of caiiao. ^he island of San Lorenzo, point Callao, and the coast 
which extends from it to the northward, are the SW., S., 
and SE. limits of the commodious bay of Callao ; it is first 
on the western coast of South America, not only from its 
security and importance, but also from being the nearest 
port to Lima, the capital of Peril. 

The following remarks are by Lieutenant-Commander 
Edwin White, U. S. N. : 

Anchorage. At present men-of-war are anchored in line on a bearing 

nearly east and west, or on a line nearly parallel to the 
Punta, or Callao point, and nearest to it. They usually 
moor head and stern. In the rear of these, on the same 
bearing, is the line of mooring buoys for the Pacific Steam 
Navigation Company. To the northward of these all of the 
merchant sailing-vessels are anchored or moored head and 
stern. There are usually three or four lines of vessels 
moored close together, each line being about half a mile in 
length. Vessels returning from the islands to clear with 



CALLAO. 



349 



guano are permitted to select a temporary anchorage out- 
side or to leeward of the lines. 

The best and most convenient anchorage for a man-of-war 
under the present arrangement is just outside of the line of 
the Peruvian vessels, to the westward, in a position well 
inside of the extremity of the Punta, and as close to the city 
as possible. The following bearings will give an approxi- 
mate idea of the location indicated : 

San Lorenzo light-house W. by S. ; east end of San Lo- 
renzo island S. by W. .} W.: tower of the old castle (rec- 
tangular tower) E. f X., magnetic, in 5 to 6 fathoms of wa- 
ter; good holding-ground. This anchorage is well to wind- 
ward, the wind being generally from the southward, and the 
obnoxious odors from the shore are escaped. The anchor- 
age to leeward, though a berth may be obtained nearer the 
landing, is not considered healthy. 

Prom the anchorage recommended, a vessel can leave the 
port with a fair wind. From this point, also, a vessel may 
exercise and maneuver her boats to advantage, the wind 
during the afternoon being sufficiently fresh for sailing and 
the sea smooth. 

It is true that it never rains in Callao, but from the mid- climate. 
die of April to the middle of November the atmosphere 
contains a great deal of moisture, which at times amounts 
to a heavy mist ; dense fogs are prevalent ; the moisture con- 
densed on the rigging and spars drips in rain; this is par- 
ticularly the case at night, though it often continues for days 
in succession. Ships arriving then with wet sails may not 
get them dry for weeks ; at times the sun is not seen for 
days. 

During the months of January, February, and March the 
weather is warm and pleasant, the sky is clear, and the air 
is comparatively dry; frequently, however, a dense fog is 
swept across the bay by the southerly winds. The mean 
temperature of 1872, noted at noon of each day, was 66° 61' 
Fahrenheit. There were two slight falls of rain, light showers, 
between September 1, 1872, and April 1, 1873 ; these showers 
produced considerable excitement, and, in accordance with 
general prophecy, a slight shock of earthquake followed 
each. 
The harbor of Callao is not particularly unhealthy, if a Health. 



350 PROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

proper anchorage is taken clear of the city. The city of 
Oallao is filthy beyond measure, due principally to a want 
of proper drainage. The olfactory nerve of the native 
Ghalaco is not delicate, but a European who ventures off the 
principal thoroughfares is soon satisfied. 

The consequence is that when an epidemic occurs it is apt 
to be fatal in its effects. There is not an efficient board of 
health, and the mortality is never known. Certain regula- 
tions exist for preventing the spread of contagious diseases, 
but they are by no means rigidly enforced. 

During the months of March and April officers and men 
are attacked with the tertiana, which generally yields to 
treatment if the patient is careful and follows the advice of 
the physicians. Though being of malarious origin, it some- 
times assumes a malignant type. 
Resources. The harbor of Callao contains a floating dock, the property 

of a stock company under the title of the " Callao Dock 
Company." 

The dock, which is of iron, was built in Scotland, and 
was put together and launched here in the year 1866. The 
manager of the dock stated that the company will under- 
take to dock vessels of five thousand (5,000) tons. The 
following is an extract from the printed circular of the 
company : 

Rules for the use of tlie dock. 

SAILING VESSELS. 

Sol. 

First day, per register ton „ *0.50 

Each subsequent day, per register ton r 25 

SHIPS OF WAR AND STEAMERS. 

Sol. 

First day, per register ton 1.00 

Four following days, each 75 

Each subsequent day , . . 50 

Armor-plated vessels, and those entering with cargo or 
an excess of ballast or other weights, will pay an additional 
sum, according to the weight. The dock will not be sunk 

* The Peruvian sol is about 8 per cent, less than the United States 
gold dollar. 



CALLAO. 351 

for less than one hundred and fifty sols, but two small vessels 
may occupy it at the same time. 

Vessels stripped, calked, and metaled by special con- 
tract, or at fixed prices per sheet of metal nailed on, varying 
from 10 to 15 reales ($1 to $1.50) per sheet, including dock 
dues, labor, and all material excepting metal, nails, and 
felt. 

The dock company will also furnish masts and spars, and 
they advertise to do all kind of ship carpentry as well as 
iron work. They furnish composition for the bottom of iron 
ships. The dock has the reputation of beiug well managed. 

Besides the dock company there are several shipwrights 
who will contract for work, and will, if required, give bonds 
for a proper performance of contract. 

The ship-carpenters are generally natives, and are not 
first-class mechanics. They seldom labor more than eight 
hours per day and receive large wages. This is true of all 
mechanics in Peru. 

Calkers are plenty and do very fair work. They are 
slow but not lazy. 

A steamer requiring repairs to machinery will find every 
facility. There are several private machine-shops, some of 
which are competent to turn a main shaft if necessary. 

In addition to these are the works of the Pacific Steam 
Navigation Company, which are very extensive and com- 
plete ; and though erected for the sole use of the company, 
the manager permits work to be done for men-of-war in 
case of necessity. 

The Peruvian government possesses no navy-yard, but 
has an arsenal at Bella Vista, about 2 miles back of Callao, 
on the line of the Callao and Lima Bailroad. The arsenal 
is under the control of the navy, and some work is usually 
going on. The works, however, are limited. 

Materials for spars may always be obtained, but as every- 
thing of this nature comes from abroad, the price is often 
immoderate. Live-oak is extremely difficult to obtain. 
White oak may be procured, but not always of the best 
quality. 

All kinds of ships' stores may be had, and generally of 
good quality. The m anil a rope is usually of English man- 
ufacture, and is good. The hemp is also English, but does 



352 



FR031 CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Coal. 



■Provisions. 



Wo od 
water. 



not compare with that furnished by our own Government 
rope-walk. I think a great deal of "twice-laid stuff" is 
sent to this market. On a recent occasion there was noth- 
ing* else to be found. 

Very fair canvas is always obtainable. Paints generally 
come out from England, and are good when fresh. 

Good steaming coal may always be obtained. Cardiff 
coal is always on hand, and at times American anthracite. 
The usual price is from $15 to $18, United States gold, per 
ton of 2,240 pounds, though at times, owing to a scarcity 
or a speculation in coal, (not uncommon,) the price may 
advance five or six dollars above those figures. A very 
good steam-producing coal has been brought here from 
Australia, which should be supplied at a much less rate, 
but owing to the want of ships and of communication be- 
tween this and Australia, the supply is by no means con- 
stant. The price above stated includes lighters, which are 
numerous, each lighter carrying about twenty tons of coal. 

All kinds of provisions may be obtained, and of fair qual- 
ity, if care be exercised in their inspection. Imported pro- 
visions are very dear, and this is true likewise of fresh pro- 
visions, the demand being great and the country producing 
but little. Bread of an excellent quality is obtainable at a fair 
price, which seldom exceeds 7 cents per pound. The bread 
is baked here from Chile flour. The cultivation of sugar- 
cane has increased of late years to a very great extent, 
causing the price of sugar to fall to a reasonable figure. 
Coffee is high, as the duties are heavy. Launches are plenty 
if wanted. 
nd Wood is scarce and dear $ on shore it is sold at a certain 
price per bundle of sticks, and is used for kindling only. 
Ships are generally supplied with refuse 2 timber from lum- 
ber-yards at about twenty dollars per cord. Advantage 
may be taken of sailing-vessels discharging and intending 
to reload with guano, by buying their wood used in stowage. 
They find good market for it on shore, however, and gen- 
erally dispose of it soon after their arrival. 

Water may be obtained at all seasons from water-boats 
supplied with good pumps and hose, but the quality of the 
water is not good, and sometimes gives a ship's company, 
upon their arrival, diarrhoea. 



OALLAO. 353 

Men-of-war steamers frequently condense their own water 
in this harbor. Efforts are being made at the present time 
to establish new water- works, in which case the water will 
be brought from a different source and will be of better 
quality. The present cost of water is 2 sols and 40 centa- 
vos (about $2.25 gold) per tun. 

The harbor of Callao is afflicted at times with what for- "The caiiao 

Painter. 

eigners term the Callao Painter. It is always preceded by 
a whitish or milky appearance of the water, even when it is 
comparatively quiet and calm. The outside of the ship is 
covered with brown spots, and the recently-scrubbed copper 
turns black ; whitewash becomes spotted, and silver turns 
black. Glossed paint escapes if it has not been ruined by 
scrubbing. Contrary to what would be naturally supposed, 
zinc-paint is also attacked by the Painter. In painting their 
boats the Peruvian men-of-war use white zinc, with a little 
oil and w r hite varnish. By having the boats carefully wiped 
off after hoisting, their neat appearance is preserved for a 
long time, but when necessary to scrub them they become . 
the prey of the Painter. Experience shows that the paiut 
is much more easily cleaned on the second day after being 
attacked, and that less paint is scrubbed off. 

The unit of money value established by law is the silver 
sol, a coin nearly equal in value to the silver dollar coined 
by the mint of the United States, but which, w T hen compared 
with the American gold dollar, according to the valuation 
of American gold by the Peruvian law, is equal to ninety- 
two cents and six mills nearly, ($0.92592.) 

The sol is divided into one hundred parts, each .called a 
centavo, and represented by a nickel coin. In addition to 
the sol there are the following silver coins : the real, equal to 
ten centavos, the two-real piece, aud the five-real piece, or 
one-half sol. 

Gold has been coined, but is not in use. The gold coins 
comprise various denominations, from one to twenty sols. 
There is no scarcity of banks in Peru, and their notes have 
almost entirely superseded the use of gold. 

By a decree of the government, United States gold is val- 
ued at 8 per cent, above Peruvian silver, which, as before 
remarked, is the standard. This decree is observed in all 
commercial transactions; American twenty-dollar gold 
23 c 



354: FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

pieces, which are usually scarce, pass current at sols 21. CO. 
To reduce Peruvian currency to the currency of the United 
States, divide by 1.0S; to reduce United States currency to 
Peruvian, multiply by 1.08. English sovereigns (taken at 
the United States custom-house valuation) are worth about 
8J per cent, above the Peruvian silver, or about sols 5.25 
each. The French franc is worth about twenty centavos 
Peruvian, the twenty-franc piece being therefore valued at 
sols 4. For exchange on New York, banks and dealers de- 
mand four per cent, on American gold, or 12 per cent, over 
Peruvian sols. Exchange on London is usually 45$. per 
Peruvian sol; exchange on Paris 4.40 francs to 4.90 francs 
per sol. 
weights and £jy decree of Congress, the French metrical system of 

tQ8ESUr6S, 

weights and measures should have gone into effect on the 
1st of January, 1873, but, in commercial transactions, the 
English system of weights prevails. In making purchases 
by the gallon, it is prudent to specify the gallon required, as 
various measures are used and misunderstandings some- 
times arise. The Spanish vara is the most commonly ac- 
cepted unit of linear measure. The vara is equivalent to 33 
English inches. 

Port charges. Merchant vessels arriving with or for a cargo are sub- 
ject to the following charges : Mole dues, 12 cents per reg- 
ister ton every time a ship enters the port ; 75 cents per ton 
weight or measurement on all cargo discharged ; tonnage 
dues, 20 cents per ton register; light dues, 1J cents per 
register ton every time a ship enters the port; hospital dues, 
4 cents per register ton every six months. Ballast, S. 1.50 
per ton, which can be secured at any point on the coast at 
from S. 1 to S. 2.50 per ton. Discharging : Coal and heavy 
cargo is usually taken out at the rate of 45 tons per day ; 
lumber at the rate of 25,000 feet daily. 

The new mole. There is in process of construction quite an extensive 
system of docks or basins, wherein it is intended that ves- 
sels shall discharge. The works are being constructed at 
considerable expense, the Messrs. Brassey & Co., of England, 
being the contractors. As a matter of course, when these 
works are completed the facilities for discharging cargo will 
be much increased, as at present all cargo is landed by 
means of lighters. 



CALLAO. 355 

The principal commercial feature of this port is the Pa- Paci £ c 8teain 

r i i navigation compa- 

cific Steam Navigation Company. This company was or- nies - 
ganized in the year 1840, and commenced operations on this 
coast with two steamers. At the present time, including 
those building, their list contains sixty iron steamers, and 
even this number is not sufficient to carryall their freights, 
requiring them frequently to charter large ocean steamers to 
carry extra freights from Liverpool to this coast. Since the 
commencement of the year 1873 a weekly line has been in- 
augurated between Liverpool and Callao, and so perfect is 
the management that the steamers sail from here every 
Thursday with the greatest regularity. The steamers com- 
posing this line are fine specimens of naval architecture, of 
from 3,200 to 3,500 tons, and from 500 to 600 horse- power. 
The number of vessels of this class is nineteen, with two of 
the same class building. Their engines are compound. 
These steamers compare favorably with any vessels entering 
the port of New York. 

The trip from Liverpool to Callao is made in forty-four 
days. The line is known as the "Straits Line of the P. S. 
N. Co.," and was organized in the year 1869 as a monthly 
line. 

This company runs a line of steamers from Callao to Val- 
paraiso semi- weekly, touching at twenty-three ports. These 
steamers are of about 2,000 tons and 300 horse-power. Not- 
withstanding the fogs and the great number of ports, they 
succeed in carrying out their time schedule with great regu- 
larity. Between Callao and Panama the number of trips 
has been increased to four per month. 

The steamers of this line touch at Paita and G-uyaquil. 
These steamers connect with the steamers of the Pacific 
Mail Company from New York and San Francisco, as well 
as with the various English, French, aud German steamers 
plying between the isthmus and Europe. Besides the regu- 
lar lines of mail steamers above mentioned, the company 
runs many intermediate steamers up and down the Peruvian 
coast, both to the northward and southward of Callao, ab- 
sorbing, to a very great extent, the trade previously carried 
on by coasters. 

The "Compagnie Generale Transatlantique" have a line French line. 
of steamers which make semi-monthly trips between Val- 



356 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



paraiso and Panama, touching at Callao for freight and 
passengers. They connect at the isthmus with the steamers 
of the same line which run between Aspinwall and San 
isazaire. 

white star Line. The White Star Line of Liverpool have established a 
monthly line between Liverpool and Callao. 

German Hoe. a monthly line of steamers has been established between 
one of the North German ports and Callao. The European 
steamers all stop at Valparaiso, Rio de Janeiro, and Lisbon,, 
and, on stated trips, also touch at various other advertised 
ports. 

Direction?. Vessels bound for Callao from the southward can enter 

the harbor by two channels, by standing along the north 
coast of San Lorenzo, which is the best and safest route, or 
through the Boqueron channel, which separates San Lorenzo 
island from Callao point. 

After making the island of San Lorenzo, which can be 
seen 20 to 25 miles in clear weather, approach it, keeping 
the Cabezo at least £ mile distant to avoid the calms, and 
steer for the anchorage, to reach which two or more tacks 
are generally necessary within the bay; if much to leeward 
a white sand-bank called the Ballena or Whale's back, 
which is 1 mile from point Callao, must not be approached; 
the bank on which it lies extends from point Callao toward 
San Lorenzo; a buoy was placed N. 70° W., £ mile from the 
Ballena, in 5 fathoms of water, but it disappeared years 
since and has never been replaced ; the sea either breaks 
over it or else causes eddies. If entering with a free wind 
during the night or thick weather, after doubling the Ca- 
bezo, J mile distant, an E. 6° S. course will lead to the 
anchorage. 
The Boqueron. The passage through the Boqueron offers the following 
advantages: Avoiding the calms of the Cabezo, shortening 
the distance, and entering with a free wind. 

With a vessel of heavy draught and when unacquainted 
with the port, it is not prudent to attempt this passage. In 
addition to the narrowness of the Boqueron channel, it is 
shoal in some places. As just stated, the Ballena bank is 
1 mile from point Callao, near the middle of the Boqueron, 
and toward the center of the bay. 



BOQUERON PASSAGE. 357 

The part between this bank and the point is shoal; ihe 
bank extends 1 mile to the southward, and is known as the 
Carmotal bank, the depth in some places being but C feet 
at high tide. 

Its S\Y. point is formed of coarse white sand and brokeu 
shells ; it is steep-to, the water deepening from 3J to 10 
fathoms in a ship's leugth. The heavy swell during spring 
tides changes the limits of the bank and contracts the chan- 
nel. The channel between the edge of the bank and the 
island of San Lorenzo is clean, the depth on the bearings 
being never less than 4J to 5 fathoms, and its breadth is a 
little more than \ mile. If it should be thought advisable to 
give the bank to the SE. of point San Lorenzo a wider berth, 
the bearing will have to be left, and the depth will not be 
less than 6£ fathoms, but the line of bearing must be takeu 
again as soon as the bank is doubled. 

The following should be observed in passing through the 
Boqueron : As soon as Fronton island is made, keep its 
southern extremity about a point open of the port cat head. 
Keep this course until the castle of Callao is seen. The 
latter, with its two Martello towers, is on the inside of the 
peninsula which forms the point; when the castle is well 
open of Fronton, head for it, which course will lead between 
Fronton and la Horadada ; keep the course until Horadada 
bears iu line with Solar cove, that is, the center between 
Solar hill and the point of the same name. This line must 
be kept by heading N. 57° W., and it will lead through the 
middle of the channel. About 800 yards off the SE. point 
of San Lorenzo there are from 2J to 3 fathoms. There are 
also off this point some rocks with shoal water between 
them; this reef has been called English bank ; after doub- 
ling it there is no danger on the side of the island except- 
ing off Dock creek. The bank will be passed when Round 
island, between Fronton and San Lorenzo, bears S.22° 15' W. 
When the western Martello tower is iu line with the north- 
ern part of point Callao, the vessel can be headed X., and 
when this tower is at least 1 point open of the breakers of 
the bank, stand for the anchorage. When the light can be 
seen, it is a better leading-mark for the Boqueron, as the 
Horadada and Solar hill are often shut in by the fog. The 
light must at first be kept in line with the chimney of the 



358 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

old factory of the dock, but as this is not a permanent 
building, it cannot be counted upon. 

As soon as the light is opened, the vessel must be headed 
N. 34° W., and run in the channel with the southern base 
of the light tangent to the high laud. As soon as Round 
island closes, a K by W. course must be taken until the 
cliff of the Cabezo of San Lorenzo is well open and bears 
K 73° 30' W. The anchorage must then be steered for. 
With these marks the castle is not needed ; it is a bad mark, 
as it is often enveloped in fog. 
t^B^roD° agh When getting under way from the anchorage of Callao, 
steer for the northern peak of San Lorenzo, until Horadada 
opens from Oallao point, then steer S. 61° 30' W., heading 
for the sand bay containing the floating dock, and, when the 
cliffs of Fronton and San Lorenzo touch, the vessel must 
be brought by the wind, tacking when the hole in Round 
island, between Fronton and San Lorenzo, is closed by the 
latter island. On the tack toward the Ballena a vessel must 
go about when the cliffs of Fronton and San Lorenzo open 
from each other. 

Vessels drawing more than 23 feet must do so a little be- 
fore, that is, when they open a remarkable dark spot on 
Fronton. When the red hill on San Lorenzo is in liue with 
a saddle which is on the summit of the island, or bears N. 
85° W., all the shoals will be cleared, and an easterly course 
can be taken. 

Beating out requires great precision, but, it is seldom 
necessary. There is but little current in the channel, but 
as that generally sets to the NW., it is important to watch 
the landmarks when standing to the eastward. The north- 
erly current is at times considerable on the outside of Fron- 
ton, and with light winds the breeze is very variable near 
it; it should, therefore, be kept at a distance of ^ mile. 

The first shoaling of the water found by the lead when 
working through this passage will give enough time to go 
about. 

The steep appearance of San Lorenzo often leads stran- 
gers to mistake the distance from it, and, thinking themselves 
closer to it, they have grounded on Carmotal bank. 

If it should become necessary to anchor in the Boqueron,, 
it can be done on the line indicated, in 8 to 9 fathoms. 



LIMA. 



359 



It is high water, full and change, in the Boqueron at 5 b Tides - 
47 m ; rise, 4 feet. 

Lima, the capital of Peru and of the department and Lima. 
province of the same name, is on the river Rimac, 7 miles 
from Callao, its port on the Pacific, in latitude 12° 03' 16" 
S., longitude 77° 06' 35" W. ; its population, in 1871, 
was about 160,000. The city, founded by Pizarro in 1535, 
stands on a plain in a valley sloping gradually to the 
sea ; it is 500 feet above Callao, but the slope is so gradual 
that the road appears absolutely level. To the W. and S. 
there is no emiuence to obstruct the view or break the 
winds; 60 miles to the E. the Cordillera rises; its spurs, 
trending toward the coast, pass close N. and E. of the city, 
sheltering it completely. The city, 2 miles long and 1£ 
wide, is divided by the river Eimac, which empties about 2 
miles N. of Callao ; the southern portion of the city is sur- 
rounded by strong walls, built in 1683 ; the streets are wide, 
and cross at right angles ; there are 33 public squares, the 
most spacious of which is the Plaza Mayor. Fine public 
edifices are numerous, the most remarkable being the 
cathedral, the government and archbishop's palaces, and 
the town -hall, all constructed by Francisco Pizarro, whose 
ashes repose beneath the grand altar of the cathedral. 
There are eight national colleges and about 70 public and 
private schools ; a public library, founded in 1822, now con- 
tains 40,000 volumes. There are numerous charitable insti- 
tutions, many of them being sustained by foreigners. The 
manufactures of Lima are very limited; the high price of 
all kinds ot labor rendering competition with foreign manu- 
factures impossible. 

Four lines of railroad lead from Lima to Callao, Chan cay, 
Chorrillos, and to Oroya, distances of 7, 60, 8, and 130 
miles. 

The climate of Lima is agreeable, and the range of the 
thermometer remarkably small, varying from 73° Fah. in win- 
ter to 87° in summer. In the winter — from April to October — 
a heavy mist hangs over the city in the mornings and even- 
ings. Rain is of seldom occurrence; thunder and lightning 
are unknown ; earthquakes are frequent. The only disas- 
trous epidemic recorded in the annals of Lima was the yel- 
low fever in 1854. 



360 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO OASMA BAY. 



rer. Th e river Rimac, ruuning through the capital, empties 
about 2 miles north of Oallao ; it carries but little water to 
the oceau, most of it being consumed in irrigating the val- 
ley of Lima. 

riw rabayll ° ^ ae moutu of the Garabayllo river is in the same bay, 5 
miles N. of that of the Rimac; it contains more water, 
although it is used as much for irrigating the valley. The 
water in its vicinity is shoal, and it is best not to approach 
the shore nearer than 1 mile until 9 miles north of Callao. 
The deposits of the river have formed banks of sand and 
mud, leaving only 8 to 12 feet of water at that distance from 
the shore. 

^Monton de n^he small, isolated hill, Monton de Trigo, is 9 miles from 
Oallao, and may be seen above the low beach to the north- 
ward of the port. It is close to the sea, of moderate height, 
pointed, and remarkable for its position. 
Point Bemai. Point Bernal is a small sand-tongue, which projects out a 
little abreast of Monton de Trigo. 

Afuer r a. migas de ^ ne roc ^ s called Hormigas de Afuera form a reef about 
30 miles W. 7° N. from the north point or Oabezo of San 
Lorenzo, It consists of several low rocks, some of which 
are under water, of some isolated rocks, and an islet 31 feet 
high and J mile in circumference, covered with a thin bed 
of guano ; this islet, which is more to the southward, can 
be seen 6 or 8 miles during clear weather. Boats can land 
on its north part, but with great difficulty. The scattered 
rocks are in a circumference of two miles. 

Vessels bound to Callao from the north and expecting to 
reach it in the morning must keep a good lookout for this 
reef during the night. Calms are frequent, and the current 
and heavy swell draw toward it. The noise of the breakers 
can be heard for 2 or 3 miles. As this reef is steep-to, its 
vicinity cannot be detected by the lead. Many vessels have 
been wrecked on it. 
point Pancha. Point Pancha, 1,125 feet high, is 4J miles NW. of Monton 
de Trigo; it projects but little; off it lies a white islet of 
moderate height, and some high and isolated rocks which 
stretch to the northward ; they are all near the coast, above 
water, and covered with guano, 
point Muiatap. Point Mulatas is 3J miles to the northward of point Pan- 
cha; it is high, formed of several mountains and rocky nil- 



PORT ANCON. 361 

locks, aud it is cleau in its vicinity. The passage between 
it and El Solitario, the nearest of the Pescadores islands, is 
deep and free from dangers. 

Ancon is an excellent port, immediately to the N. of point Port Ancon. 
Mulatas. The anchorage in the SE. indentation is secure 
in 4 to 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, 500 to 600 yards from the 
shore. 

It is one of the stations of the railroad from Lima to 
Chancay and Huacho; all the materials for it were landed 
in this port on a pier resting on wooden piles. Ancon will, 
without doubt, be not only one of the principal commercial 
places, but also a favorite watering place for the inhabitants 
of the capital. 

The coast surrounding this port has two different aspects — 
it is high, rocky, clear, and abrupt to the SW. and S., but 
low, with an extended sand- beach, to the SE. and E., and 
shoal in its vicinity. In the first, which is formed by the 
point to the eastward, is the small cove of Playa Hermosa, 
which has a fine and tranquil sand-beach. 

In addition to the railroad, there is telegraphic communi- 
cation. New buildings are being erected. Fresh pro visions 
of all kinds can be obtained. The water comes from the in 
terior, as that of the wells is a little brackish. 

This port has served for several military operations during 
the war of independence and afterward. The last was the 
landing of the Ohile-Peruviau expedition, which ended the 
Peru-Bolivian confederation, which was organized by Gen- 
eral Santa Cruz. 

The Pescadores islands are ten in number ; they extend Pescadores isi- 
to the W. aud SW. of point Mulatas; the nearest, which is 
h mile from the point, is called el Solitario. The others ex- 
tend out to a distance of 4 miles, those to the westward be- 
ing the highest and largest ; they are of a whitish color, and 
in clear weather can be seen from Oallao ; they are clean, 
with plenty of water around them. To the eastward of the 
largest island is a sunken rock. If desirable, they can be 
passed to the westward or to leeward of the highest or 
northern one; they are covered with thin beds of guano. 

The Hormigas de Tierra, two small islets, are 1 mile N. of Hormigas de 

° ' ' Tierra. 

the western islets of Pescadores ; they are without outlying 
danger. 



362 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

CaUa Ut T ° ma From the northern extremity of Ancon bay high mount- 
ains approach the beach, and at some places end abruptly 
at the sea, without leaving even a path at their foot ; they 
have a slight inclination to the E., and are overlooked by 
mount Stokes, 4,000 feet high. Through the middle of them 
is the line of the railroad from Lima to Huacho ; at a distance 
of 5 miles is point Toma-Calla, which is high, rocky, and but 
little salient to the westward, and is formed of different-col- 
ored strata. Some rocks lie off it 400 yards, inside the bight, 
to the north, where there is a narrow beach. Boats can be 
beached here when it is not too rough, 
point Pasa- ^he coast continues to the northward with the same as- 

mayo. 

pect for 3J miles, to poiut Pasamayo; the sea breaks on the 
rocks close to it. To the northward of it is a small cove, 
which is rendered inaccessible by the surf; the mountains 
run parallel to the coast. 

Pasamayo river. p roin point Pasamayo the coast follows a northerly direc- 
tion, with a slight inclination to the W. The river Pasa- 
mayo empties 3 miles from it. It has an abuudance of water 
during the summer, and the vegetation of its valley can be 
seen from a long distance. 

point chancay. Th e i ovv beach which extends from the mouth of the Pasa- 
mayo river ends 2 miles from it in point Ohancay, on whose 
extremity are three hillocks and a hill of moderate height, 
steep, and separate from the mountains of the interior. 

port chancay. After doubling point Chancay the port of Ohancay is im- 
mediately to leeward. The depth is from 6 to 12 fathoms 
GOO yards from the land. It is formed of two interior coves 
on the E. side of the point; the westernmost is the most 
convenient for landing, and all trade is done through it ; 
there are some store-houses on its heights. In the cove at 
the side of the point are some abandoned huts. These coves 
are separated from each other by a small hill of black rock, 
near which are some rocks above water. If a vessel is to 
remain a few days, it is best to get out stern lines, with her 
head to the SW., to avoid the disagreeable rolling. The 
swell often causes surf on the beach, and interrupts landing; 
during fine weather, boats can be beached on the eastern 
side of the cove. 

The town is 1J miles distant, on the plateau surmounting 
the cliffs to the northward. It is a station of the railroad 



SALINAS POINT. 363 

from Lima to Huacbo, and is in telegraphic communication 
with the capital. The place has the reputation of being one 
of the best watering places, and has progressed rapidly since 
the completion of the railroad. 

Guano is brought here for the agriculture of the valley ; 
hogs, Indian com, and other produce of the farms are taken 
to Callao. Large quantities of sugar are exported. 

From Chancay the coast trends in a curve nearly NW. for piaya Grande, 
22 miles, with an average height of from 390 to 490 feet, 
after which it runs W. by N. for 5 miles. This stretch of 
coast is called Playa Grande. It is barren, and rendered 
inaccessible by the heavy surf. Nearly everything which 
drifts away from Callao is thrown on this beach. In the 
plain is Mount Millersh, 3,560 feet high. 

Salinas point is the NW. extremity of the curve of the saiinaa point, 
coast commencing at point Callao. It projects to the west- 
ward, beginning at a small hill of moderate height. There 
is an islet close to it. 

The name Herradura de Salinas is given to the small d^saiinw!™*™ 8 
bight to the northward of Salinas point. The depth in it is 
from 7 to 8 fathoms from.400 to 600 yards from the land ; it 
is nearly always subject to a heavy swell and surf. 

From Herradura the coast trends nearly N., bordered by .faiinag mount- 
mountains. The highest of these near the beach is Salinas, 
which is iu a remarkable position on the X. coast, somewhat 
isolated, and ends in a point. Its height, 1,000 feet. 

The captains of the English steamers Inca and Quito LamisterioBa. 
report having seen the sea break on a rock which is not 
marked on the charts. They reported it as equidistant 
from points Salinas and Bajas, f mile from the nearest shore, 
Salinas mountain bearing N. 67° E., point Salinas S. 14° 30' 
E., point Bajas N. 15° 30' E. It is nearly on the course be- 
tween Callao and Huacho, and should be given a good berth. 

Point Bajas is the northern limit of the promontory of Point Bajaa. 
Salinas, which extends 5 miles N. of Salinas point. It takes 
its name from the low, flat islets which lie about £ mile NW*. 
of it. The rocks in its vicinity are above water, and the sea 
breaks on them. 

Salinas bay opens to the NE. and extends 3 miles into the saiinasbay. 
laud to leeward of point Bajas. It is bordered by a sand- 



304 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. N 

beach 5 miles in length, terminated by cliffs studded with 
rocks. The depth is everywhere good. 
creek of piaya The best anchorage in the bay is Playa Chica cove, in the 

Chica. *" 

eastern bight of the S. coast, off some huts, in from 4 to 8 
fathoms, near the land. The celebrated salt of Huacho is 
shipped here by small boats, which land on the beach with- 
out difficulty. Loading is done rapidly, as the depot is 
always well provided. 

The salt works are 5 miles distant, on the southern part 
of the plain which bounds the bay; the salt is brought 
to the coast by mules. A horse-railroad is being built. 
There is no water or resources, and no permanent residents. 

Huara group. The chain of islands which forms the Huara group extends 
for 13 miles S W. of Salinas point. In the order of their dis- 
tance from the shore, they are named as follows : 

ei Tambiuo isi- El Tambillo is the nearest to Salinas point; it is not high, 
and is clean, but very near it there is a shoal on which the 
sea always breaks. The channel between it and the point is 2 
miles wide, deep and free from dangers. 

chiquitana isi- The Ohiquitana are two islets 1 mile from Tambillo; they 
are larger, with no dangers in their vicinity ; the passage 
between them and Tambillo is clear ; the islets are covered 
with a thin covering of guano. 
ourtacarzones nd Tne Bravo and Quitacalzones are 2 miles from Ohiqui- 
tana; they form a group of three islets with some rocks on 
which the sea breaks; the passage between them and Ohi- 
quitana is clear ; they are also covered with guano. 

Mazorca island. Mazorca island is the largest of the Huara group; it is f 
of a mile in diameter and 200 feet high, and lies 1 mile from 
Quitacalzones. It is of a yellowish color, from the guano 
deposit. Boats can land on its K. side. 

Peiado iBiets. Pelado islet, 6 miles from Mazorca, is of a whitish color, 
and 100 feet high ; it is nearly perpendicular, with deep 
water around it; it has no beach. The channel between 
the two latter islands is very deep, and is the one generally 
used by vessels from Oallao bound to the northern ports. 

Huacho point, Huacho point, 6 miles from point Bajas, is the northern 
limit of Salinas bay ; it is of a dark color, high and rocky. 
Near it are some rocks which extend a little to the north- 
ward. A shoal on which the sea always breaks makes a 
short distance into port ; there is another 216 yards S. 20° 



<o 



% 



S c 



•: - V 



as 

CO . 



2 ■■:'.- 



I 



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o 

3 







m 







I? 



PORT HUACHO. 



3G5 



W. of the southern part of the point. They are above water, 
with plenty of water around them. 

After doubling the rocks off point Huacho, port Huacho 
is to the SB.; the anchorage 400 to 600 yards from the SE. 
shore is in 4 to 7 fathoms. The best landing is off some 
small houses ; some cultivated spots and the custom-house 
will be seen on the same side. The wooden wharf which 
was built some years ago is now nearly destroyed. Small 
crafts cannot run alongside of it at low water, as it is not 
long enough, and sand-banks have formed around its head. 

The town is on the cliffs to the northward, about 1 mile 
from the landing. The houses and churches can be seen 
distinctly from the anchorage, and even before reaching it. 
The road from the level of the sea to the town, though steep, 
is used by vehicles and horses. 

Huacho is a small port of some importance ; fruits, poul- 
try, and fresh provisions are abundant. The farms of the 
neighborhood are rich and well cultivated, principally in 
sugar and cotton. 

Landing is at times dangerous from the heavy surf. Wa- 
ter can be taken in near the landing by casks. The harbor 
is often frequented by whalers, who touch here for water 
and fresh provisions. The town has fine buildings, and the 
temperature is even and agreeable. It is connected with 
the capital by railroad and telegraph. Agriculture is the 
principal occupation in the vicinity of Huacho ; its trade is 
growing steadily; the population is increasing, as is also the 
importation of merchandise for the interior and the trans- 
portation of salt to the mineral regions of Cerro de Pasco. 
The exports in fruits, fowl, chancaca, sugar, cotton, hogs, 
Indian corn, and other produce is large. 

Gold was found in the vicinity of this port, at a place called 
Sanu, some years ago, but it is not worked, as it would not 
pay the price of labor. 

When coming from the S., bound to Huacho, the land 
should be made near the peninsula and mount Salinas, to 
the northward of which, 8 miles inland, are the three double 
peaks of mount Beagle, 4,000 feet high. On approaching 
the island Don Martin will open from the land to the X., 
and after that the bay of Huacho will be seen under a brown 
cliff, whose summit is crowned by bushes and overlooked 
by the city. 



Port Huacho. 






366 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Carquin bay. 



Coming from the northward, make the island Don Martin 
and mounts Usborne and Beagle, 
point carquin. rp^ c jj^ g on wa i c | 1 t ne town of Huacho is situated trend 
to the N., descending gradually for 2 miles, and form the 
low point Carquin, which is surmounted by a small hill. 
The sea breaks on some rocks above water, which are close 
to it. 

Carquin bay is to the northward of Carquin point. It is 
of no use, as it is always difficult of access, owing to the 
heavy surf. Along the coast is seen the luxuriant vegeta- 
tion of the valleys of Huaura and Huacho, which at some 
points extend to the sea. 

Carquin hill, small and isolated, is at the northern extrem- 
ity of the cove ; it is of moderate height and close to the 
beach. Some rocks extend § mile from it, but they are all 
above water, and the sea breaks over them. 

The shore to the northward of Carquin hill is low. Car- 
quin islet is about J mile from it, and 4 miles from point 
Huacho. It is rocky, but slightly elevated, covered by a 
thin bed of guano of very white color, and is a great resort 
of seal. There is plenty of water around it, and it can be 
passed as close to the westward as prudent. There are 
some breakers to the eastward of it. 

Don Martin island, 3 miles NW. of Carquin islet, is about 
\ mile from the coast. It is of moderate height, of a white 
color, and free from dangers, as the rocks off it are above 
water. It is a landmark for the ports of Begueta and 
Huacho. 
Point Begueta. Point Begueta is \ mile K of the island Don Martin ; it 
is rocky, and surrounded by reefs which, extend £ mile to 
the northward, and produce a continuous surf. 

Port Begueta is to leeward of Begueta point; it affords 



Carquin hill. 



Carquin islet. 



Don Martin isl 
and. 



Port Begueta. 



Poiut Atahuan' 
qui. 



no shelter ; the depth is from 5 to 8 fathoms, J mile from the 
shore. About 3 miles farther north is a small point and 
cove, resembling the point and cove of Begueta. 

From point Begueta the coast becomes of a dark color, 
with high mountains in the interior, the Beagle mountains, 
to the northward of which is a peak 4,200 feet high. 

Point Atahuanqui is 8 miles N. of port Begueta, and a 
little to the west ; it is clear, and formed of abrupt black 



BAY OF SUPE. 367 

rocks with white patches, particularly to the S. After 
doubling this point the vegetation of the valley of Supe 
will be seen. 
The mouutaius which form the coast for 4 miles to the Point TomaB or 

Supe. 

northward become gradually lower, trend to the westward, 
and then becoming higher again form the oval-shaped point 
Tomas. It is similar to point Atahuanqui, but has no white 
patches. It is clear, the few rocks off it being at a short 
distance ami above water. 

Point Patillo is a small point £ mile NE. of point Tomas, Point Patuio. 
the intermediate coast being formed of high, dark rocks. 
Some rocks and a small white islet extend 100 yards from 
it, but they are either above water or the sea breaks over 
them. It is not necessary to approach this point ; in stand- 
ing fur the anchorage it should be given a good berth. 

As soon as Patillo point is doubled, the low stretch of Bayofsupe. 
shore which forms the southern part of Supe bay is seen. 
It is clean, with a good anchorage in 4 to 6J fathoms, 500 
yards off the houses and huts. The town, which is 4 miles 
distant, is abundantly provided with fresh provisions. The 
best anchorage is about 200 yards from the rocks off point 
Patillo, with point Tomas just closed in b} T the former ; 
this position is J mile from the village. The anchorage 
farther out, in 6 or 7 fathoms, is exposed to the swell. Boats 
can easily be beached on the south shore, though the sea is 
generally rough. Canoes are used for loading and dis- 
charging, as there is no mole. The small point which limits 
the port to the northward has some'rocks near it, and should 
not be approached. 

Mount Usborne, 8,000 feet high, is the highest and most 
remarkable mountain of the interior chain, and is the best 
landmark for the bay of Supe ; it bears N. 64° 30' E. from 
the anchorage. It has nearly the form of a bell, with three 
different elevations on its summit ; the northern one of 
these is the highest ; it can be seen distinctly, as there are 
no other peaks for some distance, the next in point of 
elevation, Mount Pativilca, being 20 miles NW. and 8 miles 
from the coast. 

Barranca head is a small hill 2 miles IS. of Supe ; it pro- Barranca head. 
jects a little to the eastward, is deep and clear ; all the rocks 
off it are above water. To the southward and close to it is 



368 



FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 



Barranca bay. 



River and val- 
ley of Pativilca or 
Barranca. 



Mountains 
Horca and 
Fortaleza. 



Point San- 
tander. 



Pativilca or 
Darwin peak. 



Point Calle- 
jones. 



Jaguey point. 
Gramadal bay. 



a high rock, and to the N. a small islet, also close to. The 
southern rock is a good distinguishing mark for the an- 
chorage of Supe and Barranca ; it is white, and there is no 
other like it on this part of the coast. 

Barranca bay is to leeward of the head ; it is rendered 
useless by the heavy surf. There are some cabins on the 
beach, which are inhabited during the bathing season. 
2U)out § mile N. of the port are several rocks on which the 
sea breaks. They extend 400 yards to seaward. 

The river Barranca empties 3J miles N. of Barranca hill ; 
it has an abundance of water during the summer months, 
and irrigates the beautiful valley of the same name. The 
cultivated ground reaches to the shore, and can be seen 
from seaward ; there are but 5 to 6 fathoms 3 miles west of 
the valley. 

The valley of Barranca presents at its N. extremity, near 
the sea, two remarkable points, the Fortaleza, a mass of 
walls or the ruins of some Indian building, situated on a 
height, and resembling a fortress, and the mountain of Horca, 
which is close to the sea, isolated from the other heights, 
and of a dark color. 

The 9 miles of coast between Barranca head and Horca 
is constantly beaten by the surf, the water being shoal in 
its vicinity. The height of the coast is about 100 feet. It 
is a cliff of clay, descending toward the N., and ending in 
brushwood. 

Point Sautander is 2J miles from the mountain of Horca ; 
the intermediate coast trends NW. It is low with dark 
rocks. Close to its western extremity is an island, which is 
clean, and can be passed at a short distance. 

Pativilca peak is in the interior, and about NE. by N. 
from Santander point. It is a pointed cone, 5,600 feet high. 

Point Callejones is high, projects but little, and is 9J 
miles NNW. of point Santander; its surroundings are free 
from dangers; all the rocks are near it and above water. 

Jaguey point is low and dark, with some rocks close to it 
on which the sea breaks. It is 6 miles NNW. of Callejones. 

Gramadal bay opens to leeward of Jaguey point; the 
anchorage is good, and is sheltered from the S., in 5 to 7 
fathoms near the land. All the southern part is free from 



HUARMEY BAY. 



Hercules rock. 



Bufadero cliff. 



Mount de 
Tetas. 



las 



danger. It derives its name from the patches of grass which 
are seen on its shores. Lauding is often difficult. 

Fitz Roy advises anchoring in 6 to 7 fathoms, bottom 
sand, with the hill which forms the bay bearing S. 11° 30' 
E.; this position is £ mile from the land. 

It is reported that a rock was seen from the ship Hercules 
off this coast during the middle of the last century. The 
old Spanish charts place it in latitude 1(P 23' 30" S., lon- 
gitude 81° 3d' W., 75 miles from the land. The rock has 
often been searched for since, but without success. 

Bufadero cliff is 8 miles N. of point Jaguey, it is steep 
toward the sea, and formed of dark rock with white patches. 

Mount de las Tetas is a short distance inland, and seen 
above Bufadero cliff. It is 1,620 feet high, and takes its 
name from the two elevations on its summit. 

The coast runs N". for 2 miles from Bufadero, composed of a ^ beza de La " 
dark cliffs from 200 to 300 feet high, terminated by the 
Cabeza de Lagarto, which is a projecting point of dark rock, 
steep, and resembling in shape an alligator's head. The land 
inside of it seems low when seeu from the southward. 

From Oabeza de Lagarto the coast is high, trends K J Huarmey bay. 
mile, and takes a more easterly direction for more than 
J mile, where there is a stretch of low laud forming the 
bay of Huarmey . Attention must be given to the rocks, 
which at some points extend 200 yards from the small 
point of the S. shore. On this shore, within the port 
and about 800 yards to the northward, is a white rocky 
island of moderate height. The passages on either side of 
it are clear. The best anchorage is inside of this islet, be- 
tween it and the SE. beach. It is about 500 to 600 yards 
from the land, in 4 to 7 fathoms, bottom fine sand. This 
port is secure; boats can be run on the sand-beach. There 
are only a few huts and no resources. Shipping fire- wood 
and coal form the principal commerce. Large piles of wood 
ready for embarking lie on the shore. It is better and less 
expensive than at any other point of the coast. Large ves- 
sels carry it to Callao, where it is sold at a large profit. 

The town of Huarmey is 2 miles XE. of the auchorage, Description. 
and is hidden by trees; it has but one street and about 500 
or 600 inhabitants ; there is an abundance of fresh provis- 
ions at low prices, but water cannot always be obtained, 
21 c 



370 FROM CAPE NAZCA TO CASMA BAY. 

although the river is full from March to the beginning of 
summer. 

Tide?. The tides are very irregular. It is high water, full and 

change, at port Huarmey about 6 h ; rise, about 3 feet. 

Directions. On coming from seaward the best course for making this 

port is to keep on the parallel of 10° 6' S.; when some miles 
off the coast a mountain with a slender peak and marked 
with white patches will be seen. It is isolated, and situated 
to the northward of the port. The mountain gorge in which 
the river runs is high and rocky on the sides ; the land to 
the northward of Cabeza de Lagarto is lower, and the large 
white island at the north extremity of Huarmey bay will be 
seen. 

On entering, the little white island in the middle of the bay, 
called Harbor island, will be seen ; by steering so as to keep 
the south coast 400 yards distant, the vessel will pass in mid- 
channel between it and Harbor island, and can then anchor in 
4 fathoms, with the island bearing K37° W., and the ruins of 
the fort on one of the hills inland S. 84° 45' E. ; the water shoals 
regularly to the beach. This anchorage is \ mile from the 
landing. The usual landing place does not seem as good as 
another near a rock to leeward of the point. 

The sea-breeze is often so strong that boats can hardly 
work against it, especially under the highlands, from which 
terrific gusts descend. 

point cuiebras. Point Oulebras, 9 miles K of Huarmey, is the most pro- 
jecting point of the coast; it is free from dangers. 

cove and vai- Oulebras cove is to leeward of the point; it has from 6 to 
ley of cuiebras. ^ fathoms from 500 to 600 yar( j s f rom t h e g. s hore, where 

there is a flag staff near some houses; one of them is the 
property of the farmers of the valley, the only people who 
use this port. The beach is low ; the landing is in the east- 
ern bend, but landing is often dangerous. Some cotton is 
exported ; there are no resources. 

The valley which opens immediately to the northward 

shows some cultivation. The rivulet watering it has only 

water at its mouth during the summer. 

Erizos and Co- Some islets and rocks lie 1 mile off the coast, which con- 

nejos isle's. tinues its northerly direction. The principal ones are the 

Erizos, which are 3J miles N. of poiut Oulebras, and the Oo- 



CALVAEJO BLUFF. 



371 



Point Mongon- 
cillo. 



nejos, of a very light color, 5 miles X. 10° E. of the same 
point. 

The coast from Conejos island forms an inaccessible cove, 
which ends in point Mongoncillo, 6J miles from Conejos; it 
can be easily recognized, as it is terminated by a hillock 
near the sea, which descends from the chain of high mount- 
ains to the northward; some small rocks above water are 
detached from it. 

Point Colina Eedonda is 9A miles to the northward of Colina Redonda 

a point. 

Mongoncillo point. The two hillocks which form it appear 
like an island when seen from the S. ; its vicinity is clear. 

To leeward of the point is Colina Redonda cove, with an c,lina Redonda 

' cove. 

anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms near the shore ; there are no 
inhabitants or resources. There are some rocks off the 
northern extremity of the cove. 

Mongon mountain is on the same parallel as the cove, and ., , Mon&on mount - 
near the sea ; it is a good landmark. Its elevation is 3,900 
feet; it is separated from the mountains of the interior, and 
its summit terminates in several sharp peaks. Its slopes 
are generally covered by a belt of fog. When seen from the 
westward it appears round, but from the southward it looks 
like a long mountain with a peak at its extremity. 

The mountains near mount Mongon, which follow the coast caivano biuff. 
for 10 miles, are not high. Their profile is undulating, and 
they are terminated by Calvario bluff, which, formed of dark 
rock, projects but little into the sea; it is clean, and very 
precipitous. 



CHAPTEK XIV. 

FROM THE BAY OF CASIMA TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

Variation from 10° 00' to 9° 00' easterly in 1^76, increasing aunually about 1'. 

Bay of casma. After passing mount Calvario thecoast curves to the NE., 
and keeps that direction with the same appearance for 2 
miles, where there is an opening of If miles, limited to the 
northward by mountains similar to those to the southward. 
These mark the entrance to Oasma bay. 
Fergusson rock. Xo the NW. of the southern shore of the entrance to the 
port, about 400 yards distant, is a rock, reported by Captain 
Fergusson, of H. B. M. S. Mersey, over which there is but 
9 feet of water. It must be given a good berth ; the sea 
breaks over it occasionally. 

Standing in to the eastward, the low sandy beach, which 
gives the bay the appearance of a horseshoe, is seen. The 
best anchorage is in the eastern part of the bay, in the el- 
bow which the inner point of rocks makes with the coast to 
the southward of it. There are from 4 to 6 fathoms between 
200 and 300 yards from the shore. Vessels are obliged to 
anchor close to the shore to be protected from the heavy 
gusts. From 11 a. m. to sunset vessels should enter under 
short sail. 

On the beach to the eastward of the southern high mount- 
ains are some huts; in front of them is a convenient wharf, 
which offers every facility "for landing. It is not prudent 
to approach the SE. and S. shore within less than 700 yards, 
as the water is shoal to that distance. 

On the E. and NE. shores are thick woods, but there is 
no water. Fire- wood and charcoal can be obtained; they 
are the principal articles of commerce in this locality. In- 
dian corn and cotton are also exported ; the cotton is of a 
superior quality. 

The village of Casma is 6 miles from the port. Mules can 
be obtained at the huts ; some stores and fresh provisions 
can be obtained at the port. Water is very expensive, being 






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CASMA BAY. 



37a 



brought from a long distance. Oasma is a small port of the 
department of Ancachs ; it is in telegraphic communication 
with the capital. 

The rocky mountains which form the northern limit of 
the port are dark, having the same appearance as those to 
the southward. The rocks, which run out to a distance of 
400 yards from it, are all visible, the sea breaking over them. 

The best landmark for Casma is the sand-beach of the Directions. 
bay, with the sand-hills further in the interior ; they con- 
trast strongly with the dark rocks, called the Cheeks, form- 
ing the entrance. Black rock is also a remarkable point. 
To avoid the violent squalls which descend iuto the valley, 
a vessel should anchor so as to have the south cheek bear- 
ing S. 11° 40' E., in 7 fathoms, bottom sand, J mile offshore. 

Black rock is a small islet 1 mile from the shore and S. Blackrock - 
87° W. from the north point of the entrance. Tt is steep-to, 
a few feet above water, of dark color, and the sea always 
breaks over it; close alongside of it there are 30 fathoms; 
the channel between it and the coast is deep and clean. 

In 1854 the transport Mercedes, with 800 persons on board, 
left the harbor of Oasma on a dark night in tow of the steamer 
Riinac. The tow-liues parted a little to windward of the 
rock, and before sail could be made the transport was thrown 
on the rock and sank in a few minutes. Over 700 persons 
were drowned. 

From the bay of Casma the coast continues high, trending i*i et s of La 
northerly for 4 miles, when it forms a cove 4 miles in exteut. Tortuga. 
Off it, and in the line of the coast, are the Viuda and Tor- 
tuga islets. The southernmost is the Viuda ; both are of 
moderate height ; the Yiuda is clean ; the Tortuga has some 
rocks to the SE., but the sea breaks on them. 

The coast from the cove continues high and preserves its Los chinos isi- 
northerly direction for 3 miles, where, 400 yards from the 
shore, are the two islets of Los Chinos, which are free from 
dangers. 

To the northward of Los Chinos islets the coast forms a samanco point. 
cove 1J miles wide, with a sand-beach on which the sea 
always breaks. It is difficult and dangerous of access, ex- 
cepting in the southern bend, in which boats can sometimes 
be beached. High and dark rocks run out to the westward 
of the northern extremity of the cove, which, from the chain 



374 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVEE TUMBEZ. 

in the interior, form point Samanco. There is a small islet 
to the southward of the point ; both are clear. 

Samanco head. Samanco head, a rocky promontory, dark and high, is the 
northern limit of the mountains, which form the point, and 
is about J mile from them. Some rocks, on which the sea 
breaks, run out from it about 200 yards. 

Ben of sa- The Caiupana de Samanco is in the same group of mount- 

manco. 

ains as the point and hill, but about 1J miles NE. of them, 
of moderate height, with a large base ; it is conical, and its 
oval surface resembles a bell. Alongside of it is another 
small mountain. 
Bay of samanco. The safe and spacious bay of Samanco opens immediately 
to the N. and E. of the point and hill of Samanco. It is 
about 6J miles wide and 3J deep ; the entrance is 2^ miles 
wide; it is deep and clean, and can be easily recognized by 
the high mountains on each side. The depth at the entrance 
is 20 J fathoms, which diminishes gradually to the northern 
part, where the land is low, and the depth but 3 fathoms § 
of a mile from the shore. The principal anchorage is on the 
SE. coast. Standing in to the eastward there is a fine cove, 
called Guambacho ; at its entrance is a good anchorage in 4 
to 7 fathoms, 500 to 600 yards off the houses on the low 
sand-beach. There are, generally, heavy gusts from 11 a. m. 
to sunset. There are but few resources. Water can be 
taken in at a brook which empties at this place ; it is not 
very good ; that in the well on the left bank is also brackish, 
but becomes better when kept on board. 

The valley of Nepena, in which che village of the same 
name and that of Guambacho are situated, commences here. 
The first is 15 miles east of Samanco, and the second 3 miles 
NE. of the same point. From this port are shipped fire- 
wood, charcoal, rice, corn, and cotton. 

Inside of the bay, § mile from the NE. coast, is a small 
islet called de los Pajarros ; it is of moderate height, and 
whitened by guano ; there are some rocks 400 yards to the 
westward of it over which the sea breaks. 

To the NW. of the cove is a very low, saudy spit, which 

gives the high hills forming the north shore of the bay and 

running to the southward the appearance of an island. 

Lobo island. Lobo island forms the southern extremity of the high 

mountains which are the NW. limit of the entrance to the 



MOUNT DIVISION. 



375 



port of Samanco. It is about 400 yards from the coast, is 
high, formed or dark rocks with white patches, and has the 
same appearauce as the immediate coast. The small islets 
and the rocks near it are all visible. 

The chain of mountains to the northward of the entrance MountDmaion. 
of port Samanco continues high ; mount Division with its 
three peaks, 1,880 feet above the sea, to which it is very 
close, will be easily distinguished ; this group of mountains 
forms a peninsula 5 miles in length, and is connected with 
the continent by the neck of sand already mentioned. 

When bound for Samanco, coming from the north or the 
west, mount Division and the Bell should be made; the 
latter is easily seen when to the northward of the bay. To 
the eastward, a little in the iuterior, is mount Tortuga, 
higher, but resembling the Bell. 

When coming from the south, point Samanco must be 
kept some hundred yards distant; as soon as the bay is 
open, Leading bluff, a rocky mass in the midst of the sand, 
will be seen ; the south coast must then be followed without 
approaching it too close, until the anchorage is reached. 

The three Ferroll islets, almost in a straight line, lie off Ferroi islets. 
the hills which descend from mount Division toward the 
north ; they are tolerably high and their surroundings clear ; 
the passage between the northern and middle Ferroi islet 
is about ^ mile wide, with a plenty of water. 

Blanca island, 1^ miles NNE. of the northernmost of the Biauca island. 
Ferroi islets, is about 1 mile long and close to the X. coast ; 
its color is owing to a thin covering of guano. About § 
mile west of this island is a reef, some of the rocks of 
which are above water. Over it there is always a heavy 
jiwell and eddies. 

The following remarks are by Commauder J. X. Miller, U. 
8. X., commanding U. S. S. Ossipee: * 

The harbor of Ohimbote is the northern portion of Ferroi 
bay, between Blanca island and the main-land to the east- 
ward. 

Ferroi bay is a large indentation of the coast, of an oval Ferroi Bay. 
shape, about 7 miles long and 4 miles wide, with several 
islands between the main-land at mount Division and that 
at mount Ohimbote. The group of three islets nearest the 
point at mount Division is called the Ferroi islets ; the large 



376 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

island north of these, Blanca island ; and for the sake of 
distinction we have named the two rocks between Blanca 
island and the main-land to the northward, Blanca rocks. 
rofb? agestoFer " There are three passages to Ferrol bay available for ves- 
sels. The main passage, between Blanca island and the 
northern Ferrol islet, ie 1J miles wide, and free from rocks 
or shoals, with plenty of water close to both islands. The 
passage between the northern and middle Ferrol islets is 
about J mile wide, with plenty of water, and is used by the 
steamers of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company in com- 
ing into the port, but it is not deemed advisable for sailing- 
vessels to use it on account of the swell, and as but little 
distance is saved by it. The northern passage, between 
Blanca rocks and Chi in bote point, is about \ mile wide> 
and is also used by the steamers of the Pacific Steam Nav- 
igation Company, but it would not be prudent to use it in 
a sailing-vessel on account of its narrowness and the liabil- 
ity to be set ashore by the eddy, currents, and swell. The 
passage between Blanca rocks and Blanca island, between 
middle and southern Ferrol islets, and between southern 
Ferrol islet and the main-land, should not be used by any 
class of vessels. 

The appearance of the land on entering any of these pas- 
sages is that of a low sandy beach, with high hills and 
mountains rising in its rear. That portion of the bay sur- 
veyed, north of middle Ferrol islet, which would be used by 
vessels bound to Chimbote, is perfectly free from rocks and 
shoals ; it is sandy bottom on the eastern side of the bay, 
but on the western, toward Blanca and at the anchorage, it 
is partly muddy, with good holding-ground. 

During the full and change of the moon a swell sets in 
through the main passage, making it rough at the mole for 
landing, but never dangerous for vessels at anchor. 

The rise and fall of the tide is slight, about 2J feet, and 
no currents of importance were noticed in any portion 
of the bay. Yessels bound to Chimbote, after passing 
through the main or Ferrol passages, should steer direct for 
the mole and anchor a short distance from it, in 4f- or 5 
fathoms of water. In coming in through the northern pas- 
sage the soundings on the chart will indicate the course to 
be pursued. 



FERROL BAY. 377 

As the prevailing winds and currents are from the south- 
ward, vessels bound to Chimbote from distant ports should 
make the land well to the southward of the port, and after 
recognizing some marked point, follow the land along until 
opposite the passages, taking care under no circumstance, 
if it can be avoided, to fall to leeward, for, with a head wind 
and current, they will be much delayed in beating up. 

The prominent landmarks when near Ferrol bay are Bell 
mount and mount Tortuga, on Samanco bay ; mount Divis- 
ion, between Samanco and Ferrol bays ; mount Chimbote, 
Santa island, and Santa head, to the northward. 

The general direction of Blanca island and Blanca reef to 
the westward of the island are not correctly laid down in 
the sketch by Captain Folger. Blanca reef consists of a 
few projecting rocks which are awash at times, about J 
mile westward of the middle of Blanca island, and extend- 
ing out not farther than J mile from the island. The position 
is laid down on the chart with tolerable accuracy, but until 
more thoroughly surveyed vessels should keep at a safe 
distance. Soundings are laid down on the chart around the 
reef, and along the western side of Blanca island. 

The town of Chimbote, the terminus of the Chimbote, chimbote 
Huaras and Eecuay railroad, is situated in the province of 
Ancach, in latitude 9° 04' 40" S., longitude 78° 32' 15" W. 
from Greenwich, on the NE. shore of Ferrol bay. The old 
Indian village, consisting of a few huts, still exists on the 
western edge of the town. 

It is situated on a sandy plain at the foot and to the east- 
ward of Chimbote mountain. It is regularly laid out with 
streets at right angles to each other, and with the usual 
plazas of Spanish towns. From the auchorage it presents 
the appearance of a few board houses, built on a desert of 
sand, and without the sigu of a tree or vegetation. At 
present the town consists of a ship-chandler's store, the 
dwelling of the superintendent of the railroad, with offices 
for the employes attached, two or three pulperias, a butcher's 
shop, a bakery, a store-house for materials and supplies for 
t;he road, two or three buildings for coolies, and a very small, 
rough, board hotel. The custom-house which is being built 



378 PROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

is a frame building, much larger than the commerce of the 
place will require for some years to come. 

A mole is being constructed 500 meters long, and it will 
have the necessary derricks for discharging heavy weights. 
About 300 feet have already been finished. The prevailing 
winds come through the main passage in line with the mole, 
and during the full and change of the moon, when the swell 
is greatest, it will sometimes be difficult to land cargo, even 
when the mole is completed. I think a better position for 
the mole would have been at Eed knoll. 

supplies. Water is obtained from a stream emptying into Ooisca 

bay, between Ohimbote point and Santa, by means of a 
water-lighter of twenty-eight tons, which is kept running 
as occasion requires. It is sold to vessels at about two cents 
per gallon, and is probably as good as Oallao water. Water 
is also obtained from a well about 1 mile back of the town, 
which is said to be good and the supply ample. Fresh beef 
and mutton can be obtained at about the same prices as at 
Oallao ; vegetables and fruits are scarce and dear. Ships' 
supplies and stores can be obtained at moderate prices. 
At present there is no wood in the harbor, but it could be 
readily procured should there be a demand for it. There 
are no spars or materials for repairing damages to be 
obtained at this place. 

Ballast for vessels can be obtained at three sols per ton, 
delivered alongside, or it could be obtained for nothing by 
anchoring near the north end of Blanca island, and loading 
with the crew. 

Mails and t le- At present the mail is received from Oallao by steamer 

graph. L * ; 

on Saturday of each week, and mails are sent every Thurs- 
day from Santa, which is 10 miles from Ohimbote. The 
steamers do not touch at Ohimbote on their return to 
Oallao. 

There is a line of telegraph between Santa and Lima, 
and in a short time connection will be made with Ohimbote, 
but the line is often down or not in working order. 
Railroad. The railroad is to extend from Ohimbote to Recuay, a dis- 

tance of 164 miles, passing through Huaylas and Huaras. 
The contract was taken by Mr. Meiggs for constructing the 
road for 24,000,000 sols. It is to be a narrow-gauge road, 
3 feet 6 inches wide, and the specifications require a well- 
constructed road. 






SANTA HEAD. 



379 



Tides. 



Bay of Coisca. 



Throughout its entire extent, I believe, it follows the val- 
ley of the Santa river, with the exception of a few miles 
from the mouth of the river, where it branches off to the 
southward, and strikes Ferrol bay at Ghimbote. 

The object in constructing the road is to open up the 
mineral and agricultural resources of this portion of the 
country. Mines of gold, silver, copper, and coal are said to 
abound in the mountains near the line of the road, and the 
valley of the Santa is said to be capable of producing large 
quantities of cotton, rice, coffee, cocoa, and other agricul- 
tural products. 

It is high water, full and change, at Ferrol bay at 5 b 50 m : 
rise, 2 feet. 

The Ghimbote mountains are the northern limits of the cMmbote mount. 
bay of Ferrol ; they are two dark peaks, which can be easily 
recognized ; they commence at the edge of the sea and end 
iu sharp peaks, the northern beiug the lowest. They spring 
trom one base, and their surface has dark bands rising from 
north to south. 

The coast north of the bay of Ferrol, which is formed by 
the high mountains mentioned, is, for 3J miles, very steep 
and clean, when a small bend of low beach forms the bay 
of Coisca. There is an anchorage in the SE. indentation, in 
5 to 6 fathoms, 400 yards from the land, off a fishing village. 
The beach is always exposed to a heavy swell, which renders 
lauding difficult. On the north side of the bay is an islet 
without any dangers around it. The valley of Santa, whose 
fields can be seen from the sea, commences here. 

Santa island is opposite the bay of Coisca, separated from 
the nearest land by a channel 1§ miles wide; it extends 
north and south 1^ miles. Off its northern end is a small 
islet, which appears as if connected with the main island, 
and two large rocks, 20 feet high, surrounded by smaller 
ones of moderate height and of a grayish color, are f of a 
mile SW. of the island ; the channel between it and the 
coast is clear and deep. 

The low, sandy coast which forms the bay of Coisca trends 
nearly W. for 2J miles, and is limited by a promontory of 
isolated rocks called Santa head, which resembles an island 
when seen from the southward. About 200 yards from the 
low, rocky point is a rock on which the sea does not always 
break. 



Santa island. 



Santa head. 



380 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

Bay of Santa. The bay of Santa lies to leeward of the point. Though 
small, it is tolerably protected. It has a good anchorage in 
4J to 5 fathoms, about 800 yards from the shore, on the side 
of the poiut, and another in 4 fathoms J mile NNW. of a 
hamlet on the beach. 

The best place is when the NW. extremity of the point 
bears S. 55° W. Landing is effected by beaching the boats, 
in front of* the huts. 

The town is 2 miles distant, and abounds in fresh provis- 
ions, iu which a brisk trade is carried on with the island of 
Guanape. It is in telegraphic communication with the capi- 
tal. The principal articles of export are wood, charcoal, 
rice, cotton, and other produce. Water can be obtained, 
but at a high price. 

Santa river. Santa river empties on the beach, which extends north 4 

miles from the port. It is one of the largest on the coast 
of Peru. The surf almost renders this coast inaccessible. 

Corcobado islet. Corcobado islet is remarkably white ; it lies 3 miles from 
the coast, and 3J miles NW. of Santa point. Its west side 
is steep, but it slopes gradually to the east. About J mile 
NNE. is a small reef, on which the sea always breaks. 

La viuda isiet. La Viuda islet is N. by W. 3 miles from Corcobado and 1 
mile from the coast; it is smaller thau the preceding, and 
of a dark color. A low rock, on which the sea always 
breaks, lies N. 43° W. of La Viuda, and about 2 miles from 
the coast. 

vaiiey of Santa. The valley of Santa is on both banks of the river of tl>at 
name, and is about 10 miles long; its fields can be seen 
from the ocean. It is bordered by hills with sharp peaks, 
and serves as a landmark for this part of the coast. 

chaohiii. The low beach, which extends for 13J miles to the K and 

NW. of the river Santa, is rendered inaccessible by the 
heavy surf. It has some elevated projections in its north- 
ern parts, the highest and most projecting being Ohao; the 
water around it is free from dangers. 

Point chao. The small point of Chao is 1£ miles north of Chao hill; it 

is clean, and offers nothing remarkable. 

chao island. Chao island is 1J miles west of the coast, between Chao 

point and hill. It is 120 feet high, and is rendered white by 
a covering of guano. The channel between the island and 
the coast is clear and deep. There are some small islets 






X 






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GUANAPE INLANDS. 381 

close to it to the NW., and on the same side is a reef 2 miles 
long, on which, the sea always breaks. 

Just to leeward of point Chao the coast line is slightly Coscomba cove - 
•convex for a short distance and then trends north for 1 
miles, where there is a high point, on the north side of which 
is Coscomba cove. It has a poor anchorage in from o to 7 
fathom s, J mile from the land ; there are no inhabitants or 
resources. 

The anchorage of Chao is oft' the mouth of the river Chao, Ck i* chorage of 
2£ miles north of Coscomba cove. The best anchorage is 1£ 
miles from the land, oif the huts which are near the water, 
in 6J to 7 fathoms. The surf and swell are always heavy. 

Ship's boats cannot be used. After noou the wind always 
freshens, rendering work difficult. This anchorage is only 
visited by vessels which load fire-wood, charcoal, and pro- 
duce from the neighboring farms. The provisions come from 
the interior ; some are sent to the Guahape islands. The 
Chao river empties here. 

From Chao hill the coast trends N\V. for 11 J miles, where vira river. 
the Viru river, a small stream, empties on the beach. 

Three and one-half miles farther to the N\V. is Guanape Guaaape head. 
Lead, a stony promontory 700 feet high ; it is easily distin- 
guished, as it is very pointed, and the shore to the north and 
south is so low that it resembles an island. Its surround- 
ings are clean. 

The Gnaiiape group consists of two large islands named an ^ 3 ua ° ape isl " 
North and South, in accordance with their position; of two 
islets between them, aud of some large rocks NW. of North 
island. All of them are within a circle of 3 miles diameter. 
The channel between them and the laud is clear. 

North island is low and the nearest to the land, being 5£ 
miles S. 26° W. of Guaiiape head. 

South island is 1,610 feet high, and lies 1J miles S. by W. 
from North island. The western part of it is almost per- 
pendicular ; the opposite side, which slopes gradually, is 
covered with guano. The channel between the two has a 
depth of from 16 to 22 fathoms. The center islets are high, 
and almost in the middle of this channel. 

Both of these islands have good anchorages, South island 
on its NE. coast, and North island on the side toward 
the main land, close to the island, in from 15 to 20 fathoms. 



382 



FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 



Godard s'ioal. 



Guaiiape cove. 



Cf.rretas hill. 



The large rocks to the NW. of the North island are called 
the Sea Lions, and are free from outlying dangers, but ves- 
sels mast not pass between them and the islands, as a dan- 
gerous shoal, called the Godard, lies 492 yards N. 55° W. 
from the IW. point of the North island, and 197 yards 1ST. 
30° W. from the small islet in the center of the passage ; it 
has only 3 feet of water over it at low tide, and it should be 
avoided even by boats, as the sea breaks over it when least 
expected. These islands are the best landmark for vessels 
bound to the ports of Salaverry or Huanchaco. Guano has 
only lately been taken from these islands, and large and 
costly works had to be undertaken before it could be shipped. 

During the months from January to April fogs are very 
frequent, and often so thick that the communication be- 
tween the two islands is not safe. 

Winds from E. to S. prevail among these islands ; some- 
times they are fresh. From April to June they increase in 
force; the swell is heavy and loading difficult. The South 
island is more exposed than North island. 

The governor's house and custom-house are on the South 
island, but there are also many houses and sheds on the 
North island. There is a captain of the port, and some 
troops to maintain order. Fresh provisions and water can 
be obtained, the former at moderate prices, the latter at 
about $8 a tun. Vessels must get their liceuse for loading 
at Oallao, and clear either at Paita or Callao. 

Guaiiape cove is on the east side af the small point which 
runs out from the north part of Guaiiape head. The best 
anchorage is J mile from the land, off the huts on the low 
beach. The swell is generally heavy, and it is always im- 
prudent to land in ships' boats. Large quantities of wood, 
cotton, and other produce from the farms are shipped here. 
There is a water-pipe which reaches to the sea to fill the 
small vessels, which carry it to the islands. Fresh provis- 
ions are plenty. 

From Guanape head the coast is low, and trends N. by 
W. for 13 miles to the small hill of Oarretas. In the inteiior 
the mountains are from 4,000 to 5,000 feet high. Oarretas 
hill is overlooked by Mount Garita, 3,716 feet high. The 
surf on all this stretch of coast is heavy, the depth 8J to 10 
fathoms, 2 miles from the land. 



PORT SALAVERRY. 



383 



Moche rivulet. 



Trnjillo. 



Port Salaverry is immediately north of Oarretas hill. Port saiaverry. 
The depth in it is 5J to 6 fathoms, bottom sand, \ mile from 
the shore, to leeward of the small point which runs out 
from the hill. There is a tasca, and the breakers commence 
some distance from the shore ; it is, therefore, best not to 
use ships' boats for landing. With the native boats land- 
ing is more convenient than at Huanchaco. Saiaverry has 
been substituted as a port of entry in place of Huanchaco ; 
a wharf to extend outside of the breakers is being con- 
structed, and the port can soon be frequented with security. 
A custom-house has been built, and some fine houses in the 
new town, which is being supplied with water. A railroad 
is contemplated to Trujillo, 7£ miles distant. 

The coast trends NW. by W. G£ miles, to the mouth of 
the Moche, which contains but little water. 

Trujillo is in the interior, NNE. 1J miles from the mouth 
of the rivulet Moche. Its church steeples and houses can 
be distinctly seen from the sea. Trujillo was founded by 
Francisco Pizarro, who named it after his birthplace in 
Spain. It is built in the valley of Chimu, where the ancient 
Incas had one of their most important towns, the ruins of 
which can be seen, covering a large extent of ground; it is 
in telegraphic communication with the capital. The popu- 
lation is about 8,000. It is the capital of the department of 
Libertad. 

There are some huts on the beach opposite Trujillo, 1 mile 
NW.of the mouth of the Moche, which compose the hamlet of 
Huaman. It was at one time intended to make this the port 
of Trujillo, as the construction of a mole was considered 
easier here and less expensive than at Huanchaco ; but the 
project was abandoned, as its advantages were not equaled 
by those of Huanchaco and the inconveniences w T ere greater. 
There is a bad anchorage, without shelter, in 5 or 6 fathoms 
§ mile from the shore. The coast is unbroken, and con- 
stantly beaten by the surf ; it is also considered unhealthy, 
being surrounded by swamps. 

The coast from Oarretas hill runs nearly NW. 12 J miles, 
to the port of Huanchaco, which has such remarkable points 
that it can be easily recognized by persons visiting it for 
the first time. It is between the low beach to the southward 
and the steep cliffs to the north. The anchorage is bad, 



Huaman cove. 



Port H u 
chaco. 



384 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

with a depth of from 5 to 7 fathoms 1 mile from the land ; 
bottom muddy sand. There is no shelter from the continual 
swell, and the surf often extends a long distance out. 

The town is situated on a small plateau in front of the 
cliffs, on which, a church, painted white, with a tower, has 
been built. The isolated and high position of this building 
makes it conspicuous at a great distance. It is the best 
landmark for the port, as the remarkable mountains of which 
mention will be made are often enveloped in fog. 

In order to reach the best anchorage vessels must pass 1 
mile from the south point of the port, and then steer for a 
spot of red earth, which is on the cliffs to leeward. This 
direction and distance must be kept until the light is seen 
through the openings in the front and back of the tower; 
when they commence to shut in, the anchor should be dropped 
and 70 fathoms of chain veered. This anchorage, called El 
Pozo, is the best in the port. The surf reaches out farther 
on the windward side, and the bottom there is full of scat- ' 
tered rocks, which often cause the loss of anchors. 

The heavy swell often forces vessels to sea ; it is, there- 
fore, well to make sure that the anchor is c'ear, so that there 
will be no trouble in getting under way. 

It is not prudent to attempt landing in ships' boats, even 
in calm weather; the shore boats, manned with nine men, 
all familiar with the tasca, come off as soon as the vessel is 
anchored. If none are seen approaching, it can be concluded 
that the sea is too rough. The communication with the 
shore is often interrupted for 2 or 3 days, especially from 
June to September. The inhabitants have some very nar- 
row balsas, whose front part is high, called caballitos; they 
are used for fishing or going to vessels in very rough weather. 
They are moved by a double paddle, used by one man, who 
sits on his feet. These men cross the roughest tasca 7 and 
though they are often washed out, they always quickly re- 
gain their caballito, as they are excellent swimmers. 

Boats are beached near the custom-house. 

Until lately this port was much used for importing for- 
eign merchandise and for exporting rice, cotton, grain, 
chancaca, starch, and silver in bars, but this commerce has 
been transferred to Salaverry, which, as before stated, was 
made a port of entry in place of Huanchaco. 



LA CAMPANA DE HUANCHACO. 385 

The town is 6 miles from Trujillo, and is used as a water- 
ing-place by the people of that city. Provisions can be 
obtained at Huanchaco. Water is scarce and expensive, 
and it is hard to ship ; this also renders ballast expensive. 

Running for port Huanchaco a vessel should approach Directions. 
the land on the parallel of 8° V S., which is 7 miles to 
windward, and make mount Campana, which is 7 miles 1ST. 
10° E. from the roadstead. To the south of this mountain, 
and on the north shore of the valley of Chimu, the sharp 
peak of Huanchaco will be seen, and soon after the church 
and the vessels at anchor. The village cannot be seen until 
north of the point. 

The peak of Huanchaco is an isolated mountain east of , Peak of Huan - 

1 cbaco. 

this port, and 6 miles in th^ interior ; it is conical with a 
very pointed summit. It can be seen from a long distance, 
and can easily be distinguished by its shape and position. 

The bell of Huanchaco is the most remarkable mountain La campana de 
of this coast ; it is 6 miles north of Huanchaco and 5 miles 
inshore. It resembles an old bell resting on the ground, 
its peaks being the lugs. It is 3,450 feet high, and owing 
to its position can hardly be confounded with any other. 
There is often a belt of fog lying on it which leaves both its 
base and summit uncovered. 

The coast to the north of Huanchaco trends nearly N. vaiiey and 

river of Chicama. 

50° W., with steep cliffs near the sea, leaving only a very 
narrow beach. It is exposed to the heavy swell, and there 
are from 8 to 10 fathoms 3 miles off shore. At 14 miles 
from Huanchaco the cliffs are cut by the fine valley of Chi- 
cama, whose vegetation reaches to the sea. A river of the 
same name runs through the valley, which is dry at its 
mouth from May to November. 

Following the coast to the north for 3 miles from Ohicama Brujocove. 
valley, and nearly west of the town called Magdalena de 
Oao, whose houses, situated a little inside of the heights, 
can be seen from the sea, is Brujo cove, also called San Bar- 
tolome, which was used as a shipping point. Th« anchor- 
age in 5 fathoms, 1 mile from the shore, is bad and full of 
rocks, with no shelter, and the swell and surf are constant; 
these disadvantages have closed it to commerce. 
25 c 



386 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

Mount and point The coast to the northward of the valley of Chicama 

Malabrigo. u 

trends NW., and has the same aspect as that to the south. 
At the distance of 13 miles it projects to the westward, 
where the isolated mountain Malabrigo rises to the height 
of 800 feet, resembling an island from a distance. It de- 
scends gradually, and some spurs, running to the sea, form 
the point of the same name, which is clean to the SW. and 
W., but not so to the NW. and N., where the water is shoal 
and there are some rocks on which the sea breaks. 
Macaviisianda. The Macavi are two islands nearly S. 15° W., 6 miles from 
point Malabrigo. They can be called North and South 
islands from their respective positions. The North island is 
the highest and smallest, and is separated from the other 
by a channel of an average breadth of 120 feet, which can 
only be used by boats in fine weather. The North island 
contains the least guano, and is 100 feet high and of small 
area. 

The best anchorage is to the NE. of it, in 9 to 18 fathoms, 
bottom sand, 100 yards from the north point of the island. 
All the approaches of this island are perfectly clear ; there 
are from 11 to 20 fathoms 300 yards from either side. It is 
not prudent to anchor farther out than indicated, as there is 
no shelter. 

The South island is lower, and is entirely covered with 
guano, which gives it a dark-yellow or bronze color. There 
are some large rocks near it, but they are all very close to 
the island, which is otherwise clear. There are from 12 to 
20 fathoms 300 yards off. This island will be first distin- 
guished when coming from the south. It does not seem 
prudent to anchor near this island, as a vessel would be en- 
tirely exposed. Vessels bound to these islands for guano 
approach them on the east side, and when within 1 mile 
steer so as to preserve that distance until the channel opens, 
when they will be under the NW. island, and should anchor 
as soon as the two islands are in line. When there are 
vessels at the anchorage, it is better to anchor to leeward of 
them than without the shelter of the islands. Fresh pro- 
visions are brought from the neighboring port of Malabrigo. 

During the night the winds blow from the SE. to E., and 
during the day from the S. to SSE. It is seldom calm. Fogs 
are frequent and very dense from December to April ; under 



GARCIA ROCK. 387 

such circumstances vessels should keep off until noon, when 
the fog generally lifts. These islands could be passed easily 
without being seen, and, as the current at springs often runs 
2 knots, it is hard to regain them. 

Maiabrigo cove is to the eastward of and to leeward Maiabrigo cove. 
of Maiabrigo point. In running for it the coast must be 
kept J mile distant, as within that it is shoal. The best 
anchorage is at the head of the bight, between the houses 
on the SE. shore and the small point of black rocks called 
Observatory point. The depth is from 4 to 4£ fathoms § of 
a mile from the land. The center of the village will bear 
about 8. 57° E. Ships' boats should not be used, as the 
water is very shoal a long distance from the beach and the 
breakers extend far out. The boats of the inhabitants are 
beached in front of the huts. 

In 1869 Commander E. Nares, R. N., commanding H. B. 
M. S. Reindeer, examined the anchorage of Maiabrigo, and 
gave the following information relative to Garcia rock, a 
shoal rocky patch near the usual anchorage : 

Garcia rock is the shoalest part of a rocky patch 400 yards Garcia rock. 
in extent, consisting of pinnacles with sand between. The 
Garcia rock lies on the following beariugs : 

SW. extremity of point Maiabrigo S. 5L° 30' W. ; Observ- 
atory or Black point, S. 18° 30' W. ; White cross west of 
village, S. 37° 30' E. 

There are from 9 to 12 feet of water on a space of from 4 
to 6 feet of this rock ; the depth then increases rapidly to 
4 and 4J fathoms. A vessel is in the line of the rock when 
the northern street of the village is open. 

From Reindeer rock, with 12 feet of water over it, the 
SW. extremity of point Maiabrigo bears S. 55° 30' W.; 
Observatory or Black point, S. 20° 30' W. From Sixteen- 
feet rock, covered by 16 feet of water, the center of Maia- 
brigo mountain, which will be seen above the point, bears S. 
53° W.; Observatory or Black point, S. 21" 30' W. Vessels 
may anchor in Maiabrigo road in 4 fathoms with the center 
of the village bearing BSE., distant f mile ; not bringing 
Observatory point to bear farther to the W. than S. 5° W., 
to avoid the rocky ground. All the cove of Maiabrigo is 
shoal ; there are but 5 to 5 J fathoms 1 mile from either shore. 

At the anchorage the breezes are fresh with strong gnsts 



388 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

from noon until sunset. Vessels should, therefore, enter 
under short sail. Heavy swells are frequent, and they com- 
pel vessels to drop a second anchor or force them to sea. 

The village, situated in the SE. part, consists entirely of 
store-houses and huts. There are neither resources nor water. 
The principal articles of export are rice, grain, sugar, cot- 
ton chancaca, starch, and other produce of the valley of 
Chicama ; lighters can only load near high water. 

There is telegraphic communication with the capital. A 
concession was granted for a railroad of 20 to 25 miles be- 
tween this port and the towns of Paijau and Ascope. A 
pier is also proposed, 
point Arcana or Following the coast to the northward, point Arcana is 12J 
miles from Malabrigo ; it projects but little, and can be easily 
recognized from the number of high wooden crosses upon 
it surrounded by frames. As there are several rocks on 
which the sea breaks, off the point, it should not be ap- 
proached closer than 400 yards. 
Puemaccove. Puemac cove is to leeward of the point ; its depth is from 
4 to 4J fathoms, 600 yards from the land, in front of some 
huts on the south shore. These constitute the village, and 
are inhabited by fishermen. There are no resources. The 
shelter is insufficient, and boats can only land during fine 
weather, 
point Pacas- Point Pacasmayo is 7 miles to the IW. of point Arcana. 
mayo. rphe intermediate coast is low, sandy, and beaten by a heavy 

surf. The fields of the valley of San Pedro or Pacasmayo 
• are seen toward the interior. The land of the point is the 
highest, and it descends gradually toward the sea, where it 
terminates in a low and extensive curve. For J mile out- 
side of the point the water is very shoal and the sea breaks 
with a heavy swell. 

The steamer Arica of the P. S. N. Company was totally 
wrecked on this point when bound south. 
Port pacas- The large cove of Pacasmayo, penetrating 2 miles to the 
NE., is immediately N. of the point. When in the bay, after 
doubling the point, the SE. coast can be approached within 
500 yards, and the houses of the village will be seen when 
they bear N. 50° E. ; before that they are shut in by point 
Pacasmayo. The best anchorage is about 900 yards from 
the west extremity of the village, in 4 to 5 fathoms of water 



mayo. 



PORT PACASMAYO. 



389 



bottom sand and mud. The point will then bear S. by E., 
and the village E. The boats of the inhabitants are an- 
chored at this place, and are a good leading-mark for ves- 
sels visiting the port for the first time. The anchor can be 
dropped alongside or outside of them. This distance must 
be kept, as with a heavy swell the breakers extend out a 
long distance. 

Jn making the port of Pacasmayo from seaward, it is best Directions. 
to keep on the parallel of 7° 25'; the hill of Malabrigo can 
be distinguished when within 18 miles; it has the appear- 
ance of an island with gradual slopes. 

Mount Arcana, which is rugged, will be seen north of 
Malabrigo ; it is 7 miles south of point Pacasmayo ; finally, 
in clear weather, mount Sullivan, 18 miles inland and 5,000 
feet high, can be seen. On approaching, the low, yellow 
cliffs will be distinguished, those to the north of the road 
being the highest. On their summit, on the north side of the 
point, is a square detached building which shows distinctly. 
It is seldom that ships' boats can be used for lauding, and 
it is always best to use the shore boats. The road is sub- 
ject to fresh winds, accompanied by heavy gusts, after 11 
o'clock in the forenoon, during which time vessels must 
enter under short sail. 

The principal commerce of Pacasmayo consists at present Description. 
in large shipments of rice, grain, chancaca, auise-seed, coffee, 
and cotton, which is largely cultivated. Wood can be ob- 
tained. 

The village has increased much in size and importance. 
At its north end there is a fine new building, painted white, 
containing machinery for pressing cotton, &c. ; it can be 
seen a long distance when coming from the northward. A 
small brook containing fresh water empties near the houses. 
Fresh provisions can be obtained in abundance at the vil- 
lage of San Pedro, which is 5 miles distant. Steamers stop 
here weekly. 

There is telegraphic communication with the capital, and 
a railroad contracted for from Pacasmayo has been finished 
to La Vina, as has also a fine pier, extending outside the 
tasca, 2,538 feet in length. Guadalupe, which is distant 15 
miles, is celebrated for the Mr held there the first nine days 
in December of each year : it is visited by more than 20,000 
people from all parts of the republic. 



390 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

of je n uete n e r ue er The valley of Jequetepeque is 3 miles north of Pacas* 
mayo. The fields and vegetation can be seen from the sea. 
Through its center runs the river of the same name, which 
is well supplied with water in the summer, but dries be- 
tween May and December. On the shore N. and S. of the 
valley are some huts, which are occupied by fishermen or 
people visiting the sea-shore. 

zafia point. Zana point projects considerably, aud can be seen from 

Pacasmayo, from which it is 15J miles distant ; the inter- 
mediate coast trends about NNW. There are some rocks 
close to the N. shore on which the sea breaks ; another lies 
600 yards off shore in the same direction, and can only be 
seen with a heavy swell. 

CMrrepe cove. Immediately to tbe north of Zana point is a slight inden- 
tation forming Gherrepe cove. The anchorage is J mile 
from the land, in 5 to 6 fathoms ; the heavy surf prevents 
lauding with boats. On the shore are some store-houses 
and huts. Those who guard them are the only inhabitants. 
This cove is used for shipping the produce of the planta- 
tions of Cayalti, Ucupe, and others in the vicinity, which is 
the same as those of the plantations of Pacasmayo. There 
are no resources. 

Progreso cove. Progreso cove is 7 miles north of Oherrepe ; from it are 
shipped wood, charcoal, and the produce from the planta- 
tions; it is only frequented by vessels for this purpose. 
There are no resources, and the anchorage, which is 1 mile 
from the land, in 6 to 7 fathoms, offers no shelter. A heavy 
swell sets in, and the beach is only accessible to the boats 
of the natives in very fine weather. 

Eton head.* Eten head is 17 miles X. 38° W. of point Zana, this bear- 
ing being the mean direction of the coast; it is formed by 
two connected hills, very near each other. The southern 
one, the highest, is 640 feet high. They are both separated 
from the mountains in the interior, are very close to the 
sea, and form a small point. They are surrounded by low 
land, which gives them the appearance of au island when 
seen from a distance. 
The north side is white, and can be easily distinguished. 

* Lieut. A. Miller, U. S. N., gives the longitude of Eteu head as 1 mile 
to the eastward of its position on the British Admiralty charts. 



PORT ETEN. 391 

Iii the interior are two peaks, 7 and 14 miles distant, 
1,900 and 2,440 feet high. 

Port Eten is immediately north and to leeward of the hill Port Eten. 
just described. It is everywhere clean, with depths from 4 
to 5 fathoms 800 yards from the shore, and 6 and 7 fathoms 
at a distance of 1£ miles. The anchorage is open to the 
SW. swell, which often causes a heavy surf, extending 400 
and 500 yards from the shore. The coast which surrounds 
the port is formed of steep cliffs, which in many places do 
not leave any beach. 

A railroad is in course of construction, which from the 
port of Eten will extend to Monsefu, Chiclayo, Lambayeque, 
and Ferreiiafe, a distance of 28 miles. A branch of 7 miles 
will run from Chiclayo in the direction of Tuman. For this 
reason the port has been opened to commerce. Vessels 
must anchor 1J miles from the point in 6 to 7 fathoms, bot- 
tom gravel. The best anchorage is with point Eten bearing 
S. 41° E., church N. 32° E., flag-staff N. 66° E. ; or farther 
out, with point Eten bearing S. 49° E., church N. 47° E., 
flag-staff X. 70° E. 

There is a fine pier building, which will extend outside of 
the breakers ; when finished there will be no danger in 
landing. Vessels can approach to within f or J mile of 
the shore in 5 to 5J fathoms. The anchorage is safe with 
one anchor and 50 fathoms of chain 5 there is no danger, 
though the heavy swell is disagreeable. 

This new port has, without doubt, great advantages over 
those of Pimentel and San Jose', which are now used by the 
provinces of Chiclayo and Lambayeque. The principal of 
these advantages are, its greater depth, allowing vessels to 
anchor nearer the shore; the less breadth of the tasca, and 
the shelter which the hill will give to the pier. This work 
was to have been finished in 1871, at which time the other 
ports were to be closed. 

A village is beiug built, and water will be brought to the 
mole, and, as soon as the communication with the interior 
is established, every kind of supply will be abundant. A 
flag-staff on a white pyramid serves as a leading mark dur- 
ing the day; at night a light is hoisted on it. 

The islands of Lobos are distinguished by the names , l8 A ^ nds of Lobos 

° d de Afuera. 

Lobos de Afuera and Lobos de Tierra, or as High island 
and Low island. 



392 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TTJMBEZ. 

The first group is composed of two principal islands, sep- 
arated by a channel 120 feet wide with a depth of 4 fathoms. 
The greatest length of the islands from N. to S. is 2J miles, 
and the greatest breadth is 1J miles. Near them are sev- 
eral islets and large rocks. The mean elevation of the isl- 
ands is 100 feet ; they are of a white color, being covered 
with guano. Immense flocks of birds, and also seals, visit 
them from October to April. At their western extremity 
is a bank which runs nearly J mile to seaward, and close to 
the NE. side is another bank. These islands have several 
landing-places ; one of them known to the fishermen under 
the name of Puerto Grande, is on the east side. The an- 
chorage, close to the land, is good for any vessel, the depth 
being 14 fathoms, bottom sand. These two islands form a 
cove to the southward and another to the northward. The 
former is entirely open and cannot be used as an anchorage j 
the latter, on the contrary, has a convenient and secure an- 
chorage, where there is never other than a light wind. In 
it vessels can anchor as close to the rocks as prudent; there 
are several good creeks for landing, the principal one being 
to the SE., where a stone landing was built by the fleet in 
1852. The guard occupy some wooden houses on the beach. 

There is a dangerous bank in this port, about 100 yards 
long and 16 yards wide, in 8 feet of water. It is called Bajo 
Gamarra, its position having been determined by the offi- 
cers of the Peruvian brig of war of that name. It is situ- 
ated at the entrance. The following remarks will give an 
idea of its position: bring the most projecting extremity of 
the "N"W. islet in line with the opening which is formed by 
the NE. islet, named Quita-Oalcal, and the principal island \ 
on this line mark a point in the center of the port ; a little 
to the eastward of this is the bank. It can be said that it 
is in the middle of the entrance with a slight inclination 
to the eastern side and a little inside of the point. In 
order to enter, therefore, the tacks in the west channel 
must be short, until to windward of the position of the bank; 
the channel being very narrow. The surest plan is to an- 
chor a boat on the bank ; the current would not allow it to 
be kept in position by oars. Steamers can enter freely with- 
out other precaution than to keep close along the rocks on 
either shore. There are no other hidden dangers. 



! 



i* 



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.'■■■'■t 1'4 






llS l 



ii!;i 



LOBOS ISLANDS. 



393 



Lobos de Tierra. 



It must not be forgotten that this group is situated nearly 
west of Eten head, 49 miles distant and 45 miles S. 77° W. 
from port San Jose, so that precaution is necessary when 
leaving the latter port in the evening, bound south, to guard 
against the probability of the wind falling light. 

The south and west coasts of the island are inaccessible. 
Excellent fish are abundant ; the fishermen from San Jose 
are met with here ou their balsas. The exportation of guano 
from these islands is forbidden. A governor and a few 
guards reside on the islands; there is a total absence of 
resources. 

The soundings in the channel between this group and the 
coast are regular ; the bank which separates them has on it 
not less than 50 fathoms, and 3 miles from the continent 
there are from 6 to 7 fathoms, the depths being greater near 
the islands. 

Lobos de Tierra is 5J miles long N. and S., and is sepa- 
rated from the main land by a channel 10 miles wide; it is 
28J miles N. 13° 30' W. of the islands de Afuera ; close to 
it are some islets and large rocks. The SW. and S. coasts 
have no landings, but there is good anchorage the length 
of the NE. coast, near the land, in 8 to 11 fathoms, bottom 
sand and broken shells. The passage between the island 
and the coast is clear. 

This island, like the preceding, has large deposits of 
gu-.mo. It is the residence of the guard, who, like those of 
High island, are dependent on the custom-house of San 
Jose. All provisions and water are brought to them. The 
island is visited by the fishermen of Lambayeque. 

When navigating in the vicinity of the Lobos islands, 
especially north of point Aguja, great attention should be 
given to the longitude, as the currents appear to be at times 
strong and irregular. Vessels have been drifted 36 miles 
to the westward in 24 hours, and others the same distance 
to the eastward. It can be taken as a general rule that 
after a strong south wind the current is west. 

The coast N. of Eten is a sand-beach ; it is very low, and 
the sea breaks on it heavily. The noise of the breakers can 
be heard for 8 or 10 miles. 

The hamlet Santa Rosa is on the beach, 4 miles N. of sauta Rosa. 
Eten hill ; it is inhabited by fishermen, and during the 



Coast. 



394 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

bathing season is visited by the families from Ghiclayo. 
The beach is inaccessible to boats, 
port pimentei. p ort pimentel is 7J miles to the northward of Eten. It 
has all the inconveniences of San Jose, which is close to it. 
The store-houses of sugar-cane which form the village can 
be seen on the heights. The low beach to the southward of 
the hamlet extends into the sea and forms a shoal, on which 
it always breaks, producing the rough water always experi- 
enced at the anchorage. The anchor can be dropped in 5 
fathoms 1J miles from the land, the flag-staff on the office of 
the captain of the port, w r hich is in the center of the village, 
bearing K 71° 25' E. ; a flag is hoisted when a vessel is 
seen approaching. The anchorage, devoid of all shelter, is 
open to the SW. swell. The dangers and inconveniences of 
this port have caused it to be almost abandoned. There 
are no resources excepting water, which is found in a brook 
close by. The nature of the bottom, as in that of San Jose', 
is shifting sand, which renders the construction of a mole 
almost impossible, and it would have to extend 1 mile to 
reach beyond the tasca. 
de^Imba^que" 6 San Jos ^ de Lambayeque is 13 miles to the NW. of Eten 
head, at the head of a deep bay formed by the coast from 
the south and that which trends to the WNW. This port 
offers no shelter ; it is an open roadstead, where vessels may 
anchor in the open ocean off a low and dangerous sand- 
beach. 

Vessels bound for this port should make Eten head and 
follow the coast, keeping 3 or 4 miles from it, until the town 
is seen. This is at the edge of the sea. As its storehouses 
and huts are built of straw and cane, it would be readily 
confounded with the beach were it not for the church with 
its steeple and the burial-place, two remarkable points, both 
painted white j the latter being situated on a hill at the 
north extremity of the village admits of its being seen a 
long distance. They are leading marks for the anchorage. 
When the church steeple bears N. 83° 40' E., when 2J to 
3 miles from the coast, the anchor must be dropped in 5J 
to 6 fathoms. The best anchor should be used, with 70 fath- 
oms of chain. The bottom is sand and poor holding-ground. 
Fitz Roy advises the use of two anchors. It is a bad anchor- 
age, entirely exposed to the SW. swell. The sea sometimes 



SAN JOSE DE LAMBAYEQUE. 395 

breaks for 1£ miles from the beach, and often forces vessels 
to make sail in order to avoid the loss of the anchors. The 
chains should always be buoyed. 

Ship boats should never be used for landing. The balsas, 
peculiar to this place, are the same as those found at Turn- 
bez by Pizarro. They are used for loading and discharging, 
and are manned by ten or twelve Indians. Communication 
with the shore is often interrupted for two or three days by 
the bad state of the sea. 

In spite of its inconveniences, San Jos6 is one of the larg- Description, 
est ports of export of Peru. All the produce of the rich 
provinces of Chiclayo and Lambayeque is shipped from here, 
consisting principally of rice, chancaca, sugar, mani, tobac- 
co, and cotton, as also, on a small scale, hides, tallow, grain, 
turkeys, and other articles of produce and manufacture. 

The traffic of this port will undoubtedly pass to Eten as 
soon as the railroad and mole are finished. 

The population is small, and composed principally of 
Indians ; the town is surrounded by sand-dunes, which are 
always encroaching on it. At a distance of 6 and 7 miles are 
the towns of Lambayeque and Chiclayo, which are con- 
nected with the capital by telegraph. Fresh provisions and 
fruits are abundant. Water can be obtained by landing 
small casks on the balsas, but there is no running water at 
the port. 

The balsas do not come out immediately, as they wait for 
low tide and a favorable wind. If they ara not alongside in 
24 hours it can be inferred that it is too rough. There are 
almost always some coasters here at anchor. 

Lambayeque river empties 3 miles to the NW. of the town ri ^ r ambayeque 
of San Jose. It has but little water the year round, and is 
subject to freshets during the months from January to May. 
There is some vegetation on its banks. 

The shore from San Jose runs WNW., low and sandy, 
and keeps this general direction, with more or less undula- 
tion, for 83 miles, to False point Aguja. 

This sandy shore is the limit of the desert of Sechura, 
which extends 120 miles N. and S. without a sign of vegeta- 
tion. 

At the end of this low coast there is a peninsula and Mount niescas - 



396 



FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 



False 
Aguja. 



Point Aguja, 



Point Nonura, 



Point Pizura. 



Sechura bay 



some tolerably high hills, the most remarkable of which is 
mount Illescas, which ends in a sharp point. 
poiut F a ] 8 e point Aguja is, as before mentioned, the western 
limit of the low coast which commences at San Jose. The 
point is low, projecting bat little, and offers nothing 
remarkable. 

Point Aguja, a low sand-spit, runs into the sea 5J miles 
N. of False point Aguja ; some rocks and small islets extend 
800 yards from it. 

jNorth of point Aguja the coast trends to the NKE. 3£ 
miles to point Nonura, which is high and free from dan- 
gers. There is more water around it than to the north 

From Nonnra point the coast inclines more to the KE., to 
the high point of Pizura, which extends from several 
mountains and hills which are close to the coast. The 
rocks in the vicinity of the point are all above water. 

The spacious bay of Sechura opens to the E. and NE. of 
Pizura point ; throughout the bay the depth is good, but 
there are two anchorages which are generally taken, that 
off the village and the Salina. 

Vessels bound to the bay for salt should approach from 
to windward, and, after doubling point Pizura, keep along 
the shore to the eastern bight, where there are some huts 
on the beach called the Salina. Vessels can anchor 3 miles 
from it in 5 to 6 fathoms ; the beach is always quiet and 
boats can land easily. Large vessels must keep at this dis- 
tance, as there is a shoal in the vicinity of the land, with 
little water, leaving hardly a passage on the S. side for 
crafts of 40 to 50 tons. The salt is loaded by means of sail- 
ing-balsas, many of which are always fishing in the bay. 
There are no resources at this port. Vessels wishing to 
reach the village must steer for the NE. part of the bay ; 
the church-towers will be readily seen, and are a good guide ; 
one of these towers has a strong inclination to the north, 
and at a distance resembles a tree more than a stone build- 
ing. The anchorage is If miles from the beach, in 5 to 6 
fathoms, with the church-steeples bearing nearly E. It is 
a good anchorage, but exposed to fresh winds and a heavy 
swell, which produces a surf on the beach. Ships' boats, 
however, can be used, with a little care. 



THE SADDLE OF PAITA. 



397 



Point Foca. 



Focaisland. 



The river Piura empties into this part of the bay, and in 
the summer months can be ascended to the village Seehura; 
the bar is sometimes dangerous, and it is always best to 
have an Indian pilot. All traffic is carried on by balsas. 
Fishing is the principal occupation of the inhabitants ; they 
go in their balsas to the ports of Ecuador and Colombia to 
sell their salt and salt-fish ; on shore they are muleteers. 

The village of Sechura, which can be seen from the sea, 
is 4 miles inland, on the banks of the river. It has no 
resources. Its church is celebrated on account of the great 
value of its ornaments in gold and silver. 

The coast, the northern limit of the bay, trends nearly N. 
40° W., terminating at the distance of 28 miles in the high 
and abrupt point Foca. Close to the NW. of it are some 
rocks. 

Foca island, of moderate height, is about 1 mile NW. of 
Foca point. The channel between it and the coast is full of 
sunken rocks, and impracticable. The sea always breaks 
on the rocks, which make out for a short distance to the N. 
and NW. of the island 5 they are all above water. 

La Silla de Paita, 1,300 feet high and about 2 miles from 
the sea, is nearly W. of Foca island ; it is the commence- 
ment of a chain of mountains which terminates a short dis- 
tance to the SE. This mountain, black or yellow according 
to the position of the observer and that of the sun, is an 
excellent landmark for vessels bound to Paita ; it is easily 
distinguished from its isolated position and its shape, the 
upper part resembling a pack-saddle. When coming from 
the southward it will not be seen until bearing N. 55° E. 

From point Foca the coast makes a slight curve, back of Rock yp° int 
which is the saddle ; 5 miles from this is Kocky point, which 
projects to the westward, in which direction, as also to the 
northward, it is surrounded by rocks and shoals extending 
from it J mile. 

Should Paita be left during the night, bound south, care 
must be taken not to confound this point with Foca island, 
as they are very similar. The black rocks of the point stand 
out in relief against the bays of sand on either side. This 
in an uncertain light makes it look like an island. If the 
mistake should be made, and the vessel kept on her course 
to point Aguja, she would soon be among the rocks and 
shoals of the island. 



The saddle of 
Paita. 



398 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

point paita. Point Paita is 9 miles N. by E. from point Foca, and 4 

miles from Rocky point ; there are some rocks above water 
near it. At 2 miles from this coast there are about 38 fath- 
oms of water, bottom mud. 

Tierra coiorada This small cove is immediately to the E. of point Paita. 

or False bay. " A 

It takes its name from some red spots on its shores. The 
anchorage is safe, and boats can be beached easily. 
Teiegraphpoint. telegraph point is If miles from point Paita, and is the 
eastern limit of Tierra Oolorada cove. There are some rocks 
200 yards from it, which must be avoided, as the sea is 
smooth over them in fine weather, and shoal water seems to 
extend farther from the point than is marked on the charts. 
There is a signal-mast on the point. 
Port of Paita. The port of Paita is to the SE. and E. of Telegraph point j 
the anchorage is good everywhere, the depth varying be- 
tween 10 and 5 fathoms near the mole. Fitz Roy advises 
not to anchor in less than 6 fathoms, as the water shoals 
suddenly toward the land. The winds which come from the 
town commence every day about 10 a. m., and last until 
evening; the land is so near that it does not raise any sea. 

Vessels standing in should take in their upper sails before 
rounding Paita point, as the gusts there and opposite Oolo- 
rada cove are heavy. The anchorage can seldom be reached 
in one tack, but as there is plenty of room the anchor can 
be dropped whenever convenient. 

There are two small wharves ; about 100 yards off the 
larger one is the wreck of a vessel which was burned. 
Description. Paita is the principal port of the department of Pinra ; it 
is 39 miles from the city of San Miguel de Piura, and in 
telegraphic communication with the capital 5 its population 
is about 6,000. A railroad from Paita to Piura, 62 miles, 
is in course of construction. 

An abundance of provisions and naval stores can be ob- 
tained ; good workmen can be had for repairs. Wood is 
expensive. Water is also expensive, as it is brought from 
The village of Oolan, 6 miles distant. The government has 
contracted for building an aqueduct to bring the water from 
the river Chira, through the ravines 1ST. and E. of the port. 
This work will fill one of the greatest necessities of Paita, 
and be of great importance to the vessels which visit it. 

Whalers visit this port to take in provisions and water, 



PORT OF PAITA. 



399 



to ship their oil, and to receive their mails. The custom- 
house gives them some privileges, by allowing them to land 
certain articles for exchange. 

The principal commerce of the port consists in the im- 
portation of foreign merchandise and in the export of its 
products of industry, which consist in straw hats, called 
catacaos ; cotton of very good quality, hides, and some 
articles of less importance. Large numbers of cattle are 
shipped to Gallao. 

The town is small, the streets narrow and irregular, owing 
to the small extent of the plateau on which it is built. The 
climate is hot and dry, but healthy ; rain is almost unknown, 
and the houses are lightly built. 

The port is inclosed to the E. and N. by a cliff 200 feet 
high, steep, and so close to the sea as to leave no beach in 
many places. On the upper part is a plain. The English 
steamers from Panama to Oallao touch at Paita to coal. 

It is high water, full and change, at Paita at 3 h 20 m ; rise, 
3 feet. 

After making the Saddle of Paita, steer for Paita point; 
rounding it at a moderate distance, the bay of Tierra 
Colorada will open ; this is rocky, and should be passed 
without approaching Telegraph point nearer than 450 yards. 
Here the wind is frequently baffling ; the sandy shore of 
the bay will be seen, and the vessel must be worked up to 
the anchorage. 

The town cannot be readily distinguished, as the houses 
are of the same color as the cliffs. 

Colan is a village at the foot of the cliffs, 6 miles N. of 
Paita ; it is without importance, and its beach can only be 
reached by balsas ; water is carried to Paita on them. 

From Colan the ravines extend into the interior, and the 
fine valley of Chira, which descends to the sea, opens to the 
north. Off it is a low beach, in the center of which the 
river Chira empties ; it has plenty of water in the summer ; 
at its mouth is a bar which closes the entrance; there are 
days, however, when balsas and canoes can enter. The 
valley is very fertile, and can be seen a long distance from 
the land ; about 1 mile from the beach there are from 7 to 
8 fathoms. There is generally a heavy surf on the beach. 



Tides. 



Directions. 



Colan. 



400 



FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TTJMBEZ. 



Parifiaspoint. The sand-beach which commences at the valley of Ohira 
takes a NW. direction from that point ; it is bordered by a 
chain of hillocks and cliffs for 18£ miles, and terminates in 
point Parinas, a projecting point 78 feet high, and formed 
of dark rocks. This point is the western extremity of South 
America. 

Some islets and rocks lie off it, some of them extending 
out i mile ; they are above water, and the sea breaks on 
them. 
Point Taiara. From Parinas point the coast takes a nearly north direc- 
tion for 24 miles, inclining, if anything, a little to the east- 
ward. Twelve miles from point Parinas is point Taiara, a 
small point, surrounded by low rocks above water. This 
part of the coast is generally formed of cliffs, those to the 
northward having a white color. 

Point Taiara is composed of two parts : the southern is a 
cliff 78 feet high, off which there is a small black rock ; the 
northern part is much lower, and surrounded by breakers. 
To the 1ST. of the point is a shoal bay, after which the coast 
is again formed of high cliffs, 
cape Bianco. it has been mentioned that the coast from point Parinas 
trends nearly N. with a slight inclination to the E. for 24 
miles $ there it is terminated by a moderately high, round, 
and white hillock, called cape Blanco, which is remarkable 
for the strong breeze always blowing in its vicinity ; it is 
said that the wind is fresher here than at any other point 
on the coast of Peru ; it never commences in squalls, how- 
ever, but rises gradually with very clear weather from the 
middle of the day until sunset; more than two reefs in the 
topsails are seldom required. Some rocks, above water, 
extend from the point J mile ; the most remarkable one is a 
small islet of moderate height. 

To the N. of cape Blanco the coast takes a NE. direction 
with some long curves. 
of The Amotape mountains are high, lying back of the coast 
La between points Parenas and Blanco. They form a chain 
running NE. and SW., with a mean height of 3,000 to 4,000 
feet. Large quantities of rosin are drawn from the trees on 
these mountains. 

Los Organos is the name given to a high cliff 6 miles N. 
of cape Blanco, its western side resembling the pipes of an 



Mountains 
Amotape 01 



Los Organos, 



mIncora cove. 401 

organ, from which its name. It is evidently a basalt forma- 
tion. 

Following the sand-beach, which is backed by high cliffs, Mancora cove - 
4 miles to the N. of Los Organos, there is a small point, to 
leeward of which is Mancora cove. Vessels bound for this 
point must necessarily recognize Los Organos, which will 
facilitate finding the cove. It has an anchorage in 4 to 6 
fathoms, 200 to 300 yards from the shore. On the beach 
are some Ci*ne huts, and sometimes large masses of fire- 
wood, which is largely exported to Oallao. This is shipped 
by balsas, which are hauled forward and backward between 
the shore and the vessel. There are no resources. The 
store-houses belong to the plantation of the same name, and 
the order for wood is obtained from the agent of the pro- 
prietor at Paita. 

The gorge of Mancora, which is small, opens 8 miles to River and gorge 
the NE. of Mancora cove. At certain seasons of the year 
a rivulet runs through it. 

Point Sal, 24 miles from cape Blanco, is the northern limit Point sai. 
of Mancora cove. It is 120 feet high, and projects but lit- 
tle. Its approaches, as that of the preceding reach of coast, 
are safe. 

The coast to the northward is formed of cliffs for 7 miles, 
and then again becomes low, similar to that at Mancora. 

In the interior is mount Castro, 1,200 feet high. 

Point Picos is 19 miles NE. of point Sal. It is low, but Point picos. 
little salient, and, as the intermediate coast, clear. It is an 
inclined hill bordered by a sand-beach. Nearly E. of the 
point is a chain of heights trending N., all the summits of 
which are sharp peaks, rising 700 feet above the sea. 

Boca de Pan is a small cove 4i miles NE. of point Picos. cove of Boca 

de Pan. 

It has a good anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms very near the 
land. The beach is of sand, and convenient for landing. 
On it are some huts and store-houses. Large quantities of 
fire-wood are shipped from here. 

NE. 5i miles from Boca de Pan, 9ft miles from point Picos? cove of Mai- 

.. . paso or Zorritos. 

is Malpaso cove. The anchorage is excellent in 4 to 8 fath- 
oms 300 yards from the laud. The cove is surrounded by 
an abrupt cliff, with a small plateau near its center, on which 
are some huts and store-houses, which can be distinguished 
from a long distance. It was the principal establishment of 
26 c 



402 FROM CASMA BAY TO THE RIVER TUMBEZ. 

the plantation of Mancora for gathering and shipping the 
orchilla. Below the houses is a mine which is said to con- 
tain coal of good quality, but it has not been fully explored. 
There are many petroleum springs in this vicinity. 
Point Maipeio. After makiug a slight curve, the thickly- wooded coast 
runs KNTE. for 12J miles from Zorritos to point Malpelo. On 
its southern part, besides the numerous trees, it is entirely 
covered by vegetation. It is very salient, but its approaches 
are shoal, there being only from 2 to 3% fathoms 1J miles 
from the land. 

This point is the southern limit of the Guyaquil river, the 
ebb and flood of which are felt on all this part of the coast. 
The island of Muerto, or Santa Olara, 20 miles distant, and 
in the middle of the gulf, can be seen from the point in clear 
weather. 
orrJmbez river -*- tne E * °f Malpelo point is the spacious bay of Tumbez, 
in which the river of the same name empties. The best an- 
chorage is 3 miles from the E. point, off the mouth of the 
river, and nearly N. and S. of it. The land should not be 
closely approached, as the water is shoal J mile from the 
shore. This place is called El Pozo; the holding-ground is 
good in 5J to 6 fathoms 1 mile from the land. 

During the freshets, the river has several mouths ; the 
western ones are sometimes dangerous. The broadest one, 
that off the anchorage, is very quiet, forms no bar, and can 
be entered easily by boats. The river can be ascended 6 
miles to the village of Tumbez ; the banks are entirely cov- 
ered with varied vegetation, and offer a picturesque view. 
Water can be taken in easily by going 1J or 2 miles up the 
river. From this, and the abundance of sweet-potatoes and 
other vegetables, this port is more frequented by whalers 
than any other on the coast of South America; they enjoy 
the same privileges as at Paita. There are sharks at the 
mouth of the river, and inside alligators abound, and the 
mosquitoes are intolerable ; all this country is full of im- 
penetrable forest. 

At the town the orchilla is received and a large trade in 
wood is carried on with Oallao, and in mangroves with the 
whalers ; up the river there is plenty of wood for building. 

The Spanish forces under Pizarro, which conquered Peru, 
first landed at Tumbez. 



RIVER TUMBEZ. 403 

The remainder of the coast to the north of the bay is 
equally fertile, and covered with mangrove and other trees. 
There are small estuaries running into the interior, which, 
during the freshets, are in communication with the arms of 
the river Tumbez. 

The north branch of this river is the coast boundary be- 
tween Peru and Ecuador. 

It is high water, full and change, at the island of Santa Tides. 
Clara at 4 h ; rise, about 2 feet. 



ADDENDA. 



COAST OF CHIL& 

Shoal near cape Carranza, p. 191. 

The commander of the FreDch vessel of war L'lufernet 
reports that in passing the Carranza rocks, which lie off cape 
Carranza, he observed a shoal spot, distant about 650 yards 
N. 12° E. from the outermost of the rocks, which he judged 
to be covered by not more than 2 fathoms of water. 

Bangers off point Toro, p. 196. 

Mr. Clement Mossop, master of the British brig Corouilla, 
reports that he passed within 250 yards of a rock lying N. 1° 
E. of point Toro, 3 miles distant. The sea seldom breaks upon 
it; and he estimates the depth over it to be about 4 feet at 
low water. Position by Mr. Mossop, latitude 33° 43' 10" S., 
longitude 71° 48' 43" W. 

The Chilian government has given notice of a reef about 
800 yards in -length in an east and west direction, and about 
550 yards in width, 6 \ miles N. 21° E. from point Toro. 

Port Tongoy, p. 221. 

'xlie best anchorage for large vessels at port Tougoy is in 
7 fathoms of water, with Range peak and the church-spire 
in line bearing K. 35° E., and chimney in line with Morgan 
rock K 10° E. 

Roclc under ivater off point Lengua de Vaca, p. 220. 

The steamer Bolivia, with a draught of 18 feet, on a pas- 
sage from Lebu to Tongoy, struck on a sunken rock about 
1£ miles from point Lengua de Vaca ; point Lengua de Yaca 
bearing S. 3° E., and the peninsula of Tongoy S. 64° E. 



406 ADDENDA. 

COAST OF PERU. 

Point Grueso, p. 301. 

"New deposits of guano have been discovered, amounting, 
as reported, to about 3,000,000 tons, about 10J miles south 
of Iquique, on a bluff promontory making out from the base 
of mount Tarapaca, called point Grueso or Grande, in lati- 
tude 20° 23' S., longitude 70° 16' W. There is no harbor 
nearer than Iquique, where vessels will have to await their 
turn for loading. The loading-place is an open roadstead, 
sheltered from the prevailing southerly winds, and is said 
to be remarkably smooth with these winds, but it would be 
rough with northerly weather. A vessel can lie near the 
beach in 6 fathoms of water, and could be towed there from 
Iquique in two hours 

As yet the commissioners appointed by the government 
of Peru to examine these deposits have not visited the lo- 
cality. (Lieutenant Commander Keyser, U. S. K.) 






ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



A. Page. 

Aau, channel 53 

Abtao, channel 86, 87, 105 

, island 86,87,88,105,106 

, port 87 

, rock 270 

Acari, mountain 327 

, town 327 

Achilles, bank 62 

Aconcagua, volcano 5, 198 

, valley 6 

Acny, island 82 

Adventure, bay 41 

Agua Amarilla, shore of 213 

dulce, ravine 346 

del < )bispo, point 147 

Aguada del Ingles, cove 138 

Agiiea, channel 39 

Aguy, point 59 

Aguja, false point 395, 396 

, point 286,292,393,396 

Ahoui, point 81 

Ahnenn, peninsula 92 

Alau, island 75 

Alacrau, island 309 

Al bano, estuary 54 

Alcade, point 235, 236 

Alcoues, point 146, 147 

Alejandro, channel 54 

Alexander, moun tain 28 

Alfaro, point 98 

, district 98 

Algarroba, roads 197 

, point 198 

, village 198 

Algodon, bay 275,276 

Alta, poiut .101,102 

Alvizuri, islets 317, 319 

Amargos, cove 140, 141 

, port 139 

, point 139,142 

Americano, mountain 46 



Page. 

Americano, port 47 

Amnistia, bank 90, 105 

Amotape, mountains 400 

Amortajado, peninsula 123, 124 

Anacachi, rock 242, 243 

Analao, island 39 

Aucla, poin t 139 

Ancon, port 361 

Aucud, gulf of. 55,69,86,121 

, port and town 59, 61, 105, 115, 125 

Andalien, rivulet 183, 187 

Andes, mountains 5 

Anegadiza, point 166 

Augachilla, river 144, 151, 152 

Angamos, point 270,271 

Angeles, point de los 199, 204 

, town de los 182 

Animas, cove 248 

, point 249 

Anna Pink, bay 29 

Antofagasta, port 266, 267 

Autuco, lagoon 182 

, volcano 5, 182 

Apian, island 75 

Apobon, point 80 

, reef 80 

Apolillado, cove 233 

Aran ta, cove 321 

Arancania, rock 173 

, province of 4 

Aranco, bay 173, 175 

, town 176 

Arcana, mountain 389 

, point 388 

Archy, port 37,38 

, point 37,38 

Arena, point 61, 183, 277, 297 

, port 44 

Areuillas, rock 62 

Arequipa, town 289,318 

, volcano ..310,315,319 



408 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Arica, head 286 

,port 293,294,309 

,town 285,289 

Arique, village 149 

Arrayan, estuary . . 112 

, river 112 

, port 230 

Ascension, point 118 

Asia, island 293, 343 

Atacama, desert 265, 267, 271, 273, 288 

Atahuanqui, point 366 

Atico, gorge 324 

, valley 324 

, point 324,328 

, roadstead 324 

Atiquipa, gorge 325 

Atreal, shoal 140 

Aulen, island 1 16 

, channel . . 116 

, point 116 

Auque, point 86, 87 

Aurora, gorge 305. 

Avanzada, point 140, 146 

Aysen, estuary '. 45, 48 

, river 49 

Ay tay, cape 81 

Azapa, valley 310, 311 

Azua, point 330 

B. 

Bacalao, point 256 

Baja, point 270 

, rock 199,200,203 

Baj as, point 363 

Bajos de Chigua Loco, cay 216 

Ballena, cay 118 

, cove 213 

, point 250 

, port 45 

Ballena, (whale's back,) bank .. ..356,358 

Ballenar, town 236 

Ballenita, bay 250 

Ballesta, island 283, 335, 337 

, islets 335 

Banco, point del 101 

Banderas, roadstead de las 133 

Bano, cove 49 

Baracura, cape 60 

Barba, island 47 

Barcelo, port 54 



Page. 

Barco, mines and port 231 

de Puancho, point el 162 

Barelda, island 49 

Bariloche, road 114 

Baron, cove el 199 

Barranca, bay 368 

, hill 367 

, river ,. 368 

, valley 368 

Barrancas, point 195 

Barranco, village 346 

Barranquilla de Copiapo, bay . . 241 

Barro, channel 53 

, point 139 

Batro, point 170 

Beagle, mount 365,366 

Beechy, rock 187 

Beguefca, point 366 

, port 366 

Belen, rocks 184,185,186 

Bell, mountain 374,377 

Bella Vista, cove 188 

, mountain 62 

— , village 275 

Bernal, point 360 

Beware, point 328 

Biobio, paps of : . . 182, 186 

-,river 5,181,182 

Bister, island 37 

Black, island 37 

- r — ,rock 267 

— ,rock 373 

Blanca, islet 211,214 

, point 99,101,106 

: , point 275 

, point 299 

, point 324 

, (Novillo,) island 335 

,(Ferrol,) island 375 

, rocks, (Ferrol,) 376 

, (Pisco,) island 337 

Blanco, cape 284, 286, 292, 400 

, cay 46 

, river 50, 115 

Boca del. Barcb, cove 216 

, Pan, cove 401 

Grande cove 187 

Bocarrip6, hill 163 

Bodega, cove of 197 

Bodudahue, river 118, 119 



INDEX. 



409 



Page. 

Bogota, rock 208 

Boldos, fort de los 159,161 

Bolfin, bay 269 

, islet 269 

Bolivia, state of 265 

Bonachemo, mountain 105, 114 

Bonifacio, point, Morro 142, 146, 155 

Boqueron de Callao, pass 356 

, Pisco, pass 332, 334, 337 

Boquita, point 190 

Borudahue, bank 90 

Botija, gorge 253 

Bravo, islet 364 

Brea, mountain 400 

Brujo, cove 385 

Bucalemo, cape 196, 203 

Buchupureo, port 190 

Budi, ri ver 162 

, lagoon 162 

Bueno, river 134 

Buey, rocks 184 

Bufadero, hill 369 

Burns Iulet 28 

Burro, point 218 

C. 

Caballos, port 328,329 

Cabeza de la Ballena, cove 138 

, Vaca, mountain 114 

, point 245,246,247 

, de San Lorenzo, cape 347, 357, 358 

Lagarto, point 369 

Cabriteria, point 202, 204 

Cachina, bill of 210 

Cachos, point 240 

Cadenas, point 173, 174 

Caduhuapi, rocks 56 

Cabuache, island 74 

Cabucil, cove 194 

Cahuelmo, estuary 118 

Caicaena, channel 91 

Caicuel, island 87 

Caicura, islets of - 97, 111 

Cailin, bank 89 

Caja Cbica, reef 242,243 

Grande, reef 242, 243, 244 

Cajou, creek del Ill 

Cal, point of 144 

Calavera, bill 343 

Calbuco, island 91,92,95,105,106 



Page. 

Calbuco, channel 93 

, port and town 91, 92, 94 

, volcano 98, 105, 108, 114 

Caldera, port and town 242, 245, 246 

Caldereta, peuinsula 244 

Calderillo, cove 246 

Calen, port , 74 

Caleta, point 245 

Caleton, cove 163 

Calf uco, point 155 

Calienta Negro, cove 312 

Callao, bay 348 

, point 347, 357, 35S 

,towu 284,288,290,292,294,348 

Calle-Calle, river 147,149 

Callejoues, poiut 368 

Caiqueman, point 46 

Calvario, bluff, (Peru) 371 

.point, (Chile,) 140,143 

, peak 120 

Carnana\ valley 289,323 

, river 323 

Camarones, gorge 307 

Camotal, bank 357 

Campaua de Quillota, mountain.. 198, 203 

Canaveral, cove 29 

Caucagual, hamlet 148 

Cancahual, bank 148 

Candelaria, estuary de la 101 

Cariete, river 342 

, valley 338, 342 

, town 343 

Canelo, island 44 

Canelillo, bight....! 197 

Canoitad, rocks 56, 121 

Canon, point. (See Pajaros Ninos.) 

Cantera, river 148, 1 52 

Canutillar, hamlet of 113, 115 

Capacho, point 100 

Capeahuapi, islet 100, 101 

Capilla, bight 308 

Capivahuapi, islet, (see Capeahuapi,) . . 100, 

101 

Capitanes, poiut 128 

Carabayllo, river 360 

Caracol, mountain . . , 192 

Caracoles, mines 266, 267 

Carampangue, river 176 

Caramucho, cove 301 

Curamunen, cove 116 



•110 



INDEX 



Page. 

Carauma, oape 198 

Caraumilla, point 197, 198,203 

Caiavali, town 324 

Carboneros, point 145, 147 

Carelmapu, islets 62, 123, 1-27 

, point 63, 64 

Carmen, island 49 

Cannot al. bank 358 

Carnero, bay 170 

, head and point 1(39, 170, 171 

Carqain, bay 366 

, islet 366 

.hill 366 

, point 366 

Carrauza, cape 191 

Carraseo, (Independencia,) mount- 
ains 332 

Carraseo, (Pica,) mouutains 300 

Carretas, (Independencia,) mouutains. 332, 

337 

Carretas, ( Sala verry, ) hill 382 

Carrisal, bay 233 

, cape 233 

, Bajo, port '238 

Carthagena, beach 197 

Carva, island 87,88 

Casma, bay 372 

.village 372 

Castillito, point 144 

Castillo, mountain 108, 114, 115 

, viejo tort 199 

Castro, inlet, (Chile) 78 

, harbor and towu, (Chile) 79 

, mountain, (Peru) 401 

Cnenalidad, rock 209 

Cathedral of Peterborough, islet. .. 261 

Catrehae, estuary 159 

Catrilenfeu, river 144 

CatrileoTO, river 160 

Caocahoapi, cape 58 

Caucahue, strait 70, 121 

, island 70 

Caacaman, mountain 62 

Caucato, heights 338 

.port 338 

Cancan, river 150 

Canllahaapi, islet 102 

Cautin, head 105 

, river 1G3 

Cay, channel 47 



Page. 

Cayatue, lake 114 

Ca\lin, island 84,85 

Cayulpu, hamlet 159 

Cebollin, rock 215 

Centinela, hill 190 

, mount 58 

, point 82 

, point 93,121 

Central, valley 182 

Cerrillo Verde, point 187 

Cerro Allegro, hill 223 

Azul, point and towu 293, 342 

Nevado, mountain 46 

Verde, hill .' 207 

de Baldo, hill 207 

de Huasco, hills 236 

Chaba, cay 125 

Chacabuco, shoal 213 

, channel 37 

, port 49 

, rock 45 

Chacansi, village 277,297 

Chacao, bay 67 

, cape 67 

, strai t 55, 64, 86, 92, 100, 105, 106 

Chacayuta, valley 311 

Chadmo, inlet 83 

Chagulay , island 48 

Chaica, hill and river 108 

Chaiffers, island 42 

Chaihuiu, point and river 137, 141 

Chala, hill.... 293,325 

, point 286,325 

, port 324 

, valley 325 

Chalhuaco, river 131 

Challahue, point 87 

, hamlet and port 87 

Chamelo, point 259 

Chambique, cove 178 

Chanaral, bay and port 233,234 

, island 234 

de las Animas, bay 248, 250 

Chancay, point 362 

, port 362 

, towu 362 

Chanchau, creek and point 156 

Chaheral, (see Chanaral.) 

Changos, point 210 

Chaugue, point 124 



INDEX. 



411 



Page. 
Changues. island, (see Chanquis.) 

Changuillo, gorge 326 

Chanqui, estuary 93 

Cbao, island 38fl 

. hill 380 

, anchorage 381 

.point 380 

, river and valley 381 

Chaparauo, point 115 

Oapo.lake 107,113 

Charcas, town 256 

Chasco. cove 240 

, estuary 54 



Page. 

Chimpel, river 168 

Chimu. valley 383,385 

Chincha, islaud 263,293,337,339 

, river 336 

, valley 338 

Chiucuin, hamlet 149 

Chinos, islets 373 

Chiuquin, bay and islet 102 

Chipana, bay 298 

, false point * 297 

, point 298 

Chipue, estuary and lagoon 94, 98 

Chiqninata, cove 302 

Chanchil, point 117 Chiquitana, islets 364 



Chaulin. island 84 

Chanlinec, island 69, 75, 121 

Chaullin. island 91, 94 

Chanquis, islands 72, 116, 121 

Chauquiar, estuary 94 



Chira, river and valley 398,399 



Chirconlahueu, island 

Chiut, islet 

, reef 

Chivilingo, cove and river. 



Chavina, gorge and valley 326 i Choapa, cove, river, and valley.. 



Cha>aliiue. point 

Chayapireu. volcano. 

Chayhuao, poiut 

Chechil, poiut 

Chelin, islaud 

Cbenquohue. estuary 

Chefiua, cove 

Chepu. iulet 



7 



43 
119 
84 
94 
75 
98 
117 
58 

Cherrepe, cove 390 

Cheuqueino, point 107 

Chicauia, river and valley 385 

Chiclayo, town 391, 395 

Chico, hill 115 

de Pilluco, river 106 

Chidhuapi, island 90, 91 , 92, 106 

. channel 94 

C'higuas, cove 317 

Chigua Loco, roadstead 215 

.cove 216 

Chilca, point 343 

, port and village 344 

Chilco, lagoon and river 112 

Chileu, head 69, 86 

Chile, state of 1 

Chille, river 161 

Chilod, island . 4,6, 7,55 

Chimba, bay 269 

Chiinbote, village 377 

. mountains 375, 377, 379 

Chimpel, point 168 



41 

75 

75 

177 

218 

Chocalla, point 343 

Chocavento, farm 326 

Chocay, cape 62, 64, 123 

Chogou, point 71 

Cholchollen, bank and point 90 

Cholgi, head 162,165 

Chollehuaihue, point 117 

Choiuache, bay and point 298 

Chonos, archipelago 6, 7, 29 

Chope', estuary and point 94 

, chapel 94 

Chorocomayo, fort and point 140 

Choroichalhuen, roadstead 133 

Choros, cape, island, and shore 231, 232 

157 
185 
345 
345 
27 
98 
301 



, point 

, bank 

Chorrillos, cove 

, point 

Christmas, cove 

Chucahua, estuary and hamlet.. . 

Chucumata. cove 

Chulao, point 119 

Chule, gorge 315 

Chulin, islet 75 

Ch ungo, point 212 

Chungunga, island 232 

Chuquisaea, town 2H6 

Churrecue, island 48 

Chnyehua, point 89 

Chuza, cove 314 



412 



INDEX. 



Page. I 

Cinco Herraanas, islets 48 

Cisne. estuary 42 

C16mente, island 37, 38 

Cliff, cove 28 

Climate 10 

Cobija, port and town . . 272, 274, 288 

Cobre, creek = 253 

, mountain 230 

Cocbamo, bay 110, 113, 115 

, river 115 

Cocbinos, islet 63 

, point 172,173,174 

Cockatrice, rock 173 

Cocotea, cove , 314 

Cocotue, bay and cape 58 

Cogome, point 56 

Coibues, rock 150 

Coibuin, bank and point 107 

, river 107 

Coisca, bay 378, 379 

Cola, bank 88 

Colan, village 398,399 

Colcura, cove 177, 194 

, village 177 

Colem, lagoon 162 

Coles, point „■,. 312 

Colin a-redonda, cove 371 

, point 371 

Colita, island 85 

Coliumo, bay, cape 183, 189 

Collilue, cove 87 

Collen, cove 188 

Cololue, islets . 305 

Colorada, islet, (Chile) 48 

, cove, point, (Peru) 304 

Colu, river 71 

Col un, river 136 

Coman, estuary 117, 118 

,head 118 

, cbannel 118 

Compass, cape 131, 132 

Compu, inlet 82, 83 

Concepcion, bay 182, 1H3, 185 

, city '. 182,186,187 

, rock 186, 189 

Concha, river 114 

, port 41 

Conchan, beach o45 

Concbali, bay 211,213 

, river 213 



Page. 

Conchas, point 211,214,216 

Concon, rocks 203,204 

, point 204 

Conde, rock 139,146 

Condor, creek, point, (Chile) 130 

, valley 338 

Cone, inlet 28 

Conejos, islets 370 

Coustitucion, port, town, (Chile) .. 192 

, harbor, (Bolivia) 269, 270 

Contao, coast, river 115, 117 

Copiapo, port 241, 243, 259, 265 

, town 242,244 

, valley 6 

, river 241 

Copper, cove 274 

Coquiuibo, bay 223,226 

, town 227,288 

, river 226 

, valley 6 

Corales, rock 214 

Corcobado, islet 380 

,reef 344 

Corcovado, cape, volcano, (Chile). 119, 120 

,gulf 29,55,860 

Cornejo, point 317, 319, 321, 322 

Cornish, cove 28 

Corona, point 59,123 

Coronel, bay, bank 179 

, point 181 

, point 66, 86 

, port, town 179,180 

, harbor 175 

Corral, castle of 140, 143, 144 

,bay 153,156 

-, point 140 

,port. 140,142,147 

Corrales de Molina, shore 259 

Corvio, bank 90 

Corva, banks 88, 106 

Coscomba, cove 381 

Costa, channel 30, 37, 48, 50 

Covadonga, rock 133 

Crosses, the three 334 

Cruces, fort and river 147, 148, 150 

Cruz de la Ballena, point 208 

Cucao, bay 57 

Cuello, point 83, 84 

Cuervo, islet del 178 

Cuervos, point 98 



INDEX. 



413 



Page. 1 

Cueva, hill 169 

Cuitue, peak and cove Ill I 

Culebras, cove, valley 370 

, point 370 

Culenhue, bank 90 

Cullin, island 116 

, point 189 

Cumberland, bay 254, 256, 257 

Cumbre, pass of 5 

Cuptana, port 46 

, peak 30 

Curaco, cove 77, 163 

, point 87 

, river 168 

Curanipe, port 190 

Curaumilla, point 295 

Currents 20,36 

Cutipai, hamlet 151 

, river 148, 151, 155 

Cuzco, city 325 

D. 

Dalcahue, channel, village 77 

Dallas, point 241,242,244 

Damas, isla de las 232 

Dark,hill 28 

Darsena, basin 47 

Darwin, bay, (Chile) 3S 

, channel 30, 39, 48 

, peak, (Peril) 368 

Deep gully, bay 235 

Ded,bay 90 

, point 90 

Delicada, sand spit 174, 175 

, reef 172 

Descabezado, volcano 5 

Desempeno, rock 211 

Desertores, island 69, 75, 121 

D6tif, promontory 80 

Dique, creek 61 

Direction, bluff 327 

Division, mountain 375, 377 

Dock, cove 347 

Dona Inez, islands 164 

, Maria, point 330 

,table 330 

, Sebastiana, island 62 

Don Martin, island 366 

Dormido, rock 173, 174, 175 

Dorsetshire, rock 225 



Page, 

Dos Amigos, rocks 124, 125 

Dring, island 41 

Driver, rock 76 

Duendas, cove 275 

, rock 276 

Duende, island 28 

Dugoab, reef 73 

E. 

Earthquakes 9 

,Peru 288 

Eastern channel 184 

Elefantes, estuary 51 

, lagoon , 52 

Enjambre, islets 46 

English cove, (Chile) 166 

234 

Ensenada, bight 315 

Entrance, point 191 

Erizos, islets 370 

Errazuriz, channel 30, 37, 35 

Esmeralda, rock 63, 270 

Espanol, port 39 

Esperanza, channel 54 

Espiniera, port 46 

Espinosa, mountain 185 

Esplorades, bay 53 

Estancilla, cove 148 

Estaquillas, point 127 

,bay 127 

Este, river of 113 

Eten, coast 393 

,head 390 

,port 391 

F. 

Faetoria, hamlet 112 

Faith, bay 258 

Falsa Gal era, point 137 

False, bay 398 

Falsa Punta, point 274 

False Maule, valley 193 

Falso Godoy, point 124 

Farallones, los, rocks 198 

Fantasma, la, rock 211 

Farallon, islet 159 

del hifernillo, island 195 

Ferrol, bay 3T5 

, islets 375 



414 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Fergusson, rock 372 

Finaja, point 224 

Flamenco, port 248 

Flat Rock,islet , 319 

Foca, island 397 

, point 397 

Fonck, mountain 54 

Forsyth, island 269,270 

Fortaleza, mountain 368 

Four Fathom, bank 171, 172 

Fox, bay 191 

Fraile, point 342 

Frances, port 46 

Francisco, island 45 

, point 245 

Frayle, rock !.._.. 176 

, port 46 

Frio, river 128 

Fronton, island 348, 357, 358 

, point 145, 185 

Fuente, de la, islet 320 

Fuerte, la, island 

, mountain 323 

el, to wn 92, 105 

Fuerti Viejo, cove 177 

, mountain 177 

Futa, river 144, 152 

G. 

Galapagos, islands 286 

Galera, point 131, 135, 137, 141, 146 

Gallegos, cape 27 

, island 29 

Gallo,point 198 

Galvez, point, fort 185 

Gamarra, bank 392 

Gamboa, river 78 

Garcia, rock 387 

Garita, mountain 382 

Garrido, island 38,39 

Gatico, bay 274f 

Gatos, cove 42 

Gaviota, island 232 

,bay 233 

Gbal.bank 89 

Gobernador, hill of 207 

Godard, shoal 382 

Godoy , point 124, 125 

, port 126 

Goleta.islet 342 



Page. 

Gonzalez, islet 260 

Gonzalo, head 138, 141, 146, 155 

Gorda, point 307 

Gordo, mouut 308,309 

Gorro de Quinchel, island 45 

Gramadal, bay 368 

Grande, point 252, 253 

Grueso, point 301 

Guabun, cape 58 

Guacamayo, island 151, 152 

. river ..148,151,152,153 

Guadalupe, fair 389 

Guaina Pisagua, bay 306 

, town 306 

Gu ai teca Gran de, island . . . 43 

Guaitecas, archipelago 42, 121 

Gualaguala, cove 272 

Guambacho, cove 374 

, village 374 

Guafiape, cove 382 

, islands 283,381 

,hill 381 

Guasa bullena, point 256 

Guata, cove 321 

Guerrero, gorge 317 

Guerrero, island 37 

Guihuen, heights 63 

Guillermo, rock 63, 64 

Guyacan, port 223 

,town 223 

Guyaquil, river 402 

Gyuicalla, point 136 

, cove 136 

H. 

Halkrock 1... 171 

Harbor, islet 170 

Hector, rock 173 

Hellyer, rocks 28 

Hercules, rock: 369 

Herradura, point 223, 228, 238 

de Carrisal, bay 238 

Coquimbo, bay, town.. . 222, 223 

Mexillones, bay 270 

Quintero, shore 204, 206 

Salinas, cove 363 

Higgins, point 258 

Higuera, mines 231 

Hoca, point 193 

Horca, mountain 368 



I!N T DEX. 



415 



Page. 

Horadada, islet 347, 357, 358 

Horcon, cape. 206 

, bay 206 

Hormigas deAftiero, rocks 292,360 

Tierra, islet 361 

Homo, hill of Ill 

Huacanec, island 43 

Huacas, point 333 

Hnacho, poiyt 364 

, valley.. 366 

, port 294,364 

, town 364 

Huaehucucuy, bay and cape 58 

Huafo, island 30, 31, 55, 121 

, channel 44 

Huairona, cove 139, 142 

Huala, point 120 

Hnalayhue, cove 118 

, point 118 

, coast 117 

, river 118 

Huaman, cove 383 

, hamlet 383 

Hnambliu, island 30, 40, 56, 121 

Huamlad, channel 56 

Huanaqnero, mountain 222, 228 

Hnanchaco, village 384 

, bell or mountain 385 

, peak 385 

, port 383 

Huachuque, point 72 

Huanillo, cove 275 

',cape 275 

, point, (Chile) 252,253 

, point, (Peru) 298 

Hnanosa, islet 269 

Hnantajalla, mines 304 

Hnapacho, bank 58 

, cape 58, 59 

Huapi, island of 154 

Huapilacuy, point 59 

Huapilinao, cape 69 

Huar, island 97,98,99,117 

.passage ..97,99,100,105 

Huara, group of islets 364 

, valley - 366 

Huarmey, bay 369 

, town 369 

Huasco, point 236 

,port 230,236 



Page. 

Huasco, town 236 

, river 237 

, valley 6 

Hnatimo, island 45 

Huatral, point 97,99,100 

Huayusca, cove 129 

Huchuettin, lagoon 182 

Hncuao, point 77 

Huecas, point 189 

Huechucucuy, cape 127 

Hueicolla, cove 136 

, point - 135, 136 

, river 136 

Huelmo, islet 99,100 

,rock 99 

, point 97,99 

,bay 99 

Huemules, de los, river 51 

Huenquellahue, anchorage 100 

Huenteguapi, point 170 

Hnentelanqueu, cove 217 

Hnenuhnapi, poiut 86, 87, 88 

Hueso Parado, port 251 

, point 251 

Huevos, de I03, islets 211, 212, 214 

Hneyelhue, river 132 

Huildad, inlet 84 

, hamlet 84 

Huildad, shoal 84 

Huililil, point 131 

Huin, point 117 

Huite, port 70 

Huito, estuary 92, 94, 106 

Hully, point 188,189 

Humos, cape 191 

, island 37,38 

Humboldt, current 286 

I. 

Ica, river 330 

, valley 330 

Illescas, mountain 395 

Ilo, gorge 313 

,port 289,313 

Ilque, bay 100 

, point 100 

II to, cove 90 

, island 90 

Imel, point 75 

Imperial, river.. 5, 161, 163 



416 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Imperial, mission 161 

Imperiale, town 163 

Inchin, island 29,31,38 

Independencia, bay 328, 331 

Infiernillos los, islets 293, 330 

Ingles, cove 312 

Iquique, coast 302 

, islet 302 

- — , port . . . 265, 286, 288, 289, 293, 294, 302 

Isla Blanca, bay 251 

Negra, island 210 

Isla Grande, island 243, 244 

Island, Grande, point 258 

Islay, coast 317 

, mountain 320 

, point 316,317 

, port ... 293, 294, 318 

Islote, el, island 148 

, channel 148 

Isquiliac, island 38, 39 

, mountain 40 

J. 

Jacaf, channel 47 

Jagiiey, point 368 

James, island 41 

Janequeo, bank 99 

, rock 46 

Jara, cape 253, 265, 267, 268 

, mountain 267 

Javier Igor, island 124 

Jequetepeq ue, river 390 

, valley 390 

Jesus, islet 314 

Jorge, bay 269 

Jorgino, hill 270 

Juan Diaz, height 311 

Fernandez, island 254, 295 

Latorre, point 138, 155 

Soldado, cove 230 

, mountain 230 

Junin, cove 305 

K. 

Kent, island 40, 41 

Kno wsley, rock 223 

L. 

Lacao, bay 65 

, peninsula 92 

Lacuy , peninsula 58 

Lagartija, island 87, 105, 106 



Page. 

Lagartija, channel 88 

, banks 89 

Lagarto, cape ' 369 

Lagartos, islets 270 

Lagunas, port 39, 47 

Lagunilla, bay 199 

Laja, river 182 

Lambayeque, town 286,294,391,394 

, river 395 

Lamehuapi, creek, point 134, 135, 136 

Lami, bank 88, 90, 91, 105, 106 

Laraquete, beach 176 

, river 176 

Larquen, lagoon 160 

Laurel, point 140, 142, 146 

Lavapie, point 172, 173, 174, 175 

Lavata, bay 251 

Laxa, rock 199,200 

Laytec, island 85, 121 

Leading, bluff, (Perti) 375 

, bluff, (Bolivia) 270,271,274 

Lebu,hill 168 

, port 168 

, river 169 

, cove 170 

Lechagua, coast 61 

Lechuza, mountain 333 

Lelbun, point 81 

Lemos 258 

Lemu, island 41 

Lemuy, island 75, 78 

Lena, cove 301 

Lenca, cove ". 107 

, river 108 

Lengua de Vaca, point 220, 228 

Lengue, river 156 

Lentinao, islet 78 

Leones, cape 234 

,los, rocks 312 

Leptepu, creek 118 

, river 119 

Leteu, estuary „ 118 

Letreros, island 46 

, port 46 

Lican, cove 156 

Licera, bight 308 

Liebre, island 41 

Lieuleu, point 119 

Ligate, cove 301 

Ligua, bay 208 



INDEX. 



417 



Page. 

Ligua, point 208 

, valley 6 

Liguina, island 154 

Lilenes, island ..., 215 

Liles, point 170 

, point 204,206 

Lilihnapi, island 118 

Lilihue, point 87 

Lima, city 285, 359 

Limari, river 220 

Liu, island .' 90 

, cove 90 

Linao. cove 69 

Liugueral, point 189 

Linlin, island 74 

Linua, island 74, 121 

Lirqnen, port 187 

, point 187 

Liteu, point 208 

Little White, island 270, 271 

,Hill 305 

Lites, islets 206, 207, 208 

Llaicha, chapel 93 

Llancah6, island 118 

Llanos, de los, river 144 

Llauquihue, lake 5, 104, 114, 126 

, province 92,103,104 

Llecuiuo, beach Ill 

Lieguiman, cove 117 

Lleuleu, river 167 

Lliuco, village 70 

, river 130 

Llico, bay 193 

, river 128 

, cove 127 

Loa, cove 286. 297 

, gorge 281, 297 

,river 265,277,297 

Lobato, cove 29 

Loberia, point, (Peru) 343 

, cove, la, (Chile) 188 

,point, 157 

, point 183,184, 188, lc9 

.point 215,217,218 

Lobo, point 183 

, point 237 

, point 297 

, (Samanco,) island 374 

Lobos, cape, (Chile) 70 

, island 208 

27 c 



Page. 

Lobos, islet, de los 210 

, islets, los 132 

, point 172,173,174 

, point 198, 209, 210 

, rock 99 

, rock, los 177, 178 

, cape, (Peru) 308 

, or Blanco point 299 

, or Foca, island 397 

, or Sombrero, point 326 

de Afuera, islands 292, 391 

de Tierra, islands 391, 393 

Loboso, point 324 

Locobe, point 170 

Locos, island 45 

.island 209,210 

Locumba, river 312 

Logag,bay 233 

Loncollen, point 155 

Lougue, island 120 

Lomas, gorge 326 

, valley 326 

, point 326 

,port 327 

Lookout, hill 185 

Lora, cape 194 

Lorcura, point 168 

, river 168 

Los Negros, point 258 

Patos, pass of 5 

Lota, cove 175,177 

, town 177 

Lottilla, cove 1 78 

Loveria, point 256 

Low, port 43 

, point 270 

Lozzi, rock 188 

Luco, bay 173, 175 

Lurin, cove 344 

, village 344 

Lutrin,hill 177,178 

M. 

Maca, mountain 48 

Macari, islands 283, 386 

Machil, estuary 93 

, point 93, 94 

Macuu, island 118 

Magdalena de Cao, town 385 

Madrid, point 308 



418 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Magdalena, island 46 

Maillen, channel 100,101 

,island 100,102,105 

, banks 102 

Maipu, river 197 

Mala, river 343 

, valley 343 

Malabrigo, cove 387 

, village 387 

, mountain 386, 389 

, point . 386 

Malenas, bank 205 

Malino, cove 138 

Malliiia, island 98,100 

Malpaso, cove 119, 401 

de Asia, point 343 

Mamilla, gorge 279 

Malpelo, point 401 

Manao, bay 69 

, point 93, 94 

Mancera, bank . 142 

, island 143,145,146,147 

Manco, estuary 49 

Mancora, cove 401 

, gorge 401 

, river 401 

Manihueico, point 115 

, rivulet 115 

Manuel, point 165 

Manzano, cove 129 

, creek 129,132 

, roadstead of . . 132 

,bank 184 

Manzanos, islands of 118 

Maquis, point 190 

Mar Brava, point 232 

, beach 347 

Marillmo, channel 118 

Marimeli, islets 109, 110, 112 

Marinao, rock 184 

Mariscadero, cove of 156 

Martin, cove 117 

, bay 115 

, point 91,106,117 

Martinez, rock 157 

Mas a Fuera, island 254, 259 

Tierra, island 254 

Matalqui, cape 57 

, rocks 57 

Matamores, port 239 



Page. 

Matanza, creek 196 

Matancilla, inlet 196 

Mataquito, river 193 

Matarani, cove 320 

Maule, bank 164, 169, 170 

, bar 192 

, cape 191 

, river 5,190,191,193 

, lagoon 193 

Maullin, river 5, 105, 123, 124, 125, 126 

Mayne, mountain 42 

Maypu, bank 69 

Mayquillahue, bay 155, 156 

, point 156, 158 

Maytencillo, cove 219 

Mazorca, island 364 

Medio, point 244 

, bank.... 88 

Mehuin, river 156 

Mejia,cove 315,316 

Mejico, point 315,317,319 

Mejillones, cove 305 

, point 305 

,town 289 

Melimoyo, volcano 45 

Melinka, port 32,44 

Melipulli, port 103 

Menchuan, island 29 

Meninea, island 48 

Metrencue, point 95, 97 

Metri, point 107 

Meulin, island 72,74,121 

Mexillones, bay 271 

, mountain 270, 271 

Middle, bay 240 

, island 341 

Midhurst, island 42 

Miedo, point 223,224 

Milagro, cove of 134 

Miller,rock 226 

Millersh, mountain 363 

Millongue, point 168, 170 

Mirafiores, village 346 

Mirahulay, mountain 120 

Mirquenes, point 180 

Mission, point 155 

Misteriosa, rock 363 

Misti, volcano 315 

Mocha, channel 165 

, island 165 



INDEX. 



419 



Page. 

Mocha, plain 187 

Moche, rivulet 383 

Mocho, estuary 164 

Mogo tes, roadstead de los 51 

Molino, point del 139 

Molle,cove 302 

Mollendito, gorge 320 

Mollendo, port 289,316 

Molles, point 203 

Mongon, mountain 371 

Mongoncillo, point 371 

Monton de Trigo, mountain 360 

Moquegua, town 289 

, valley 313 

Moraleda, channel 30, 44, 48 

Moreno, bay 267 

, mountain 267,269,270 

Morguilla, island 168 

Morrita, rock 215 

Morrito del Pabellon, rock 214 

Morro de Arica, bluff 308, 309 

Copiapo, bluff 242, 243 

, point 244 

Caletas, islet 256 

Vinillo, islet 259 

de Potrevillo, islet 206 

Amarillo, hill 260,261 

Mostaza, cove 216 

Mota, island 148 

Mocalat, volcano 46 

Muelles, point 208 

Muermos, estuary de los 107 

Muerto, island 402 

Mui, estuary 116 

Muilchey, island 45 

Muilcopue, cove 132 

, shore 132 

, point 132 

Mula Muerta, point 216 

Mulatas, point 360 

Munoz, estuary 61 

Mutico, point 63 

Mutun, hill 191 

N. 

Nague", cove 212,214 

Naguilan, village 154 

, river 153,154 

Nahuelhuapi, cove 113 

, cay 113 



Page. 

Nahuelhuapi, lake 114 

, point 86,88,106 

Nalcayec, island 53 

Nao, islet 97,115,116 

Narborough, island 40 

Nassau, port 45 

Natividad or Navidad, bay or cove . 196 

Nay ahue. islet 75 

Nazca, cape 284,293,329 

, port 329 

Negra, islet 210 

Negro, cove del 210 

Negros, los, point 258 

Nefia, point 166 

Nepefia, village 374 

, valley 374 

Newke, mountain 183 

Niebla, point 139, 142, 145, 146, 147 

Nightingale, rock 276 

Nigue, point lo7, 158, 159 

Nihuel, islet 75 

Ninualac, channel 30, 41, 46 

Nonato, cove 321 

,gorge 321 

Nonura, point 396 

Noratos. (See Nonato.) 

North, (Guanape,) island 381 

, island 340 

Novillo, island 335 

Nuestra Senora, bay 252 

Numancia, rock 82, 121 

Numpulli, point 139 

Nunez, bank 60, 63 

O. 

Obispito, cove 247 

Obispo, cove 247 

Observatory, cay 37, 112 

, point 387 

Observation, point 226 

Ocona, gorge 323 

, valley 289,323 

Ocopa, cove 326 

Octai, port 105 

Oeste Huanosa, islet 269 

Ofqui, isthmus 31 

Olivos, hill 218 

Olleta, point 56 

Olleros, point 330 

Orgauos, los, mountain 400 



420 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Ortuzar, channel 38 

Oscnro, cove 70, 121, 218 

Osorio, rock 59 

Osorno, bay 230 

, volcano 5, 98, 105, 108, 113, 114 

Oyarvide, mountains 301 

P. 

Pabellon de Pica, hill 299 

, cove 300 

Pacasmayo, point 388 

, port 289,290,294,388 

Pacay, cove , 314 

, point 314 

Pachacamac, island 344 

Pacocha, cove 289,312 

Padre, bay 258 

Paehuapi, point 117, 118 

Paita, point 286,398 

, port 398 

, town 292 

, saddle 397,399 

Pajaros, los, islet 107 

, islets 230 

, (Samanco,) islet 374 

de los, islets 298 

,point 234 

Ninons, islets 225, 228, 229 

Nifios, islets 183, 184, 186 

, island '.. 197 

Pajel, islet 46 

Pajonal, cove 239,240 

Palillo, tributary 150 

Palitos, cove 214 

Palo del Diablo, point 148 

Muerto, point 138 

Palominos, islets 348 

Palos Blancos, cove 194 

Negros, cove 194 

Pancha, point 360 

Pan de Azucar, cove 250 

, island 186,250 

,hill 228 

Pangal, point 124, 125 

Panitao, point 100, 101, 102 

, banks 102 

Pantheon, cove 141 

Pano, point 323 

Panul, hamlet 150 

Paposa, port 252 



Page. 

Papudo, port 200,207 

Papuya, cove, islands 195 

Paquica, cape 276 

Paquija, point 1 326 

Paracas, bay 335 

, peninsula . 334, 337 

, point 333,337 

Parga, cove 127 

, bay .. 86 

Parinas, point 281, 400 

Parra, point 186,188 

Parua, bay 86 

Pasamayo, point 362 

, river 362 

Paso de Tautil, strait 96 

Pastigo, point 139 

Patache, point 300 

Patch, cove 29 

Patgui, point 43 

Patillos, cove 300 

, islets 300 

Patillo, point 367 

Pativilca, peak 367,368 

, river 368 

, valley 368 

Patds, de los, passage 5 

Paycavi, river 167 

Paz, island 41 

Pecheura, point 63 

Pechoiias, las, point 215 

Pecuta, point 91 

Pedragal, del, cliffs 98 

Peje Perro, cape 315 

Pelado, islet 364 

Pelchuquin, river 150 

Pelicanos, rock 225 

Pelu, point 95 

Pena Blanca, cove 235 

, port 235 

Sola, rock 138 

Peiias, point 106 

Penou, point 193 

Penco, port and town 183, 187 

Penitente, del, point 211,213 

Perales, los, watering-place 251 

Perez, port 48 

Perhue, point 93,117 

Periaguas, rocks 64 

Peru, state of 281 

Pescadores, islands 361 



INDEX. 



421 



Page. 

Pescadores, point 323 

, (Chile) 51 

, (Juan Fernandez) 256 

Petorca, valley 6 

Petrel, cove 194 

Petrohue, river 109, 113, 114 

Petucura, rock 66 

Peuque, point 87 ; 

Philip, mountain 41 

Pica, gorge 299 ' 

, Pabellon 299 

Picata, point 312 

Pichalo, point 306 j 

Pichi, hamlet 153 

Pichicui, point 208 i 

Pichidanqui, bay 200,209 j 

Pichiguapi, islet I/O 

Pichi Quillaipe, island 107 

Pichirupa, channel 40 

Picos, point 401 | 

Picuda, la, cove 312 I 

Piedra Blanca, point 249 j 

, rocks 177 

Lobos, rocks 191 j 

Negra, point 249 ! 

Piedras, point 304 

Pilluco, river 106 I 

Pilon de Azucar, mountain 258 

Pilquen, hill 86,87,106 I 

Pimentel, port 394 j 

Pinales, los, mountain 165 j 

, road 165 

Pineiro, rock 334, 337 j 

Pinto, point 91 

Piojo, point 143,145,147 

Piquete, point 178 

Piren, cays Ill 

, river 159 

Pirulil, cape 57 

Piti Palena, estuary 120 

,port 120 

Pisagua,bay 307 

, gorge 307 

, point 307 

, town 289,304 

Pisco, port 286,293,336 

, river 338 

, salt-works 333 

, town 337 

Piura, river 397 



Page. 

Piures, creek and islet 171 

Pizura, point 396 

Planchon, pass of 5 

Plata, point 253 

, la, town 266 

Playa Ancha, plain 199 

Blanca, beach 1 79 

Brava, beach 267 

Chica, cove 364 

de Carbon, beach 127 

Huicha, beach 68 

Negra, bank 179 

, beach 179 

Grande, shore 363 

Hermosa, cove 361 

Poco Comer, tributary 153 

Pocoihuen, point 113 

Polcura, cove 194 

Pollollo, shore 93 

Polmallelhue, island 90 

, rock 90 

Pompon, hill 181 

Poqueldon, village 79 

Poquillihue, hill 61 

Poroto, point 230 

Port Low, port 43 

Portillo, pass 5 

Poza de Llaicha, estuary 93 

Quidalco, estuary 116 

anchorage 402 

, point 218 

Prince of Wales, rock 65 

Pringle, cape 28 

Progreso, le, cove 390 

Puancho, point 161, 162 

Pucari, bank 99 

Pucatrihue, point 133 

Pucheguin, point 101 

Puchivilo, estuary 91 

Puchoco, point 179, 180 

Puelma, bay 54, 123 

, inlet 54 

Puelo, river 115 

Puemac, cove 388 

, point 388 

Puerto Claro, point 145, 154 

Frances, cove 256 

Grande, port 392 

la Mar, bay 272 

.town 272 



422 



INDEX. 



Page. 
Puerto Montt, port. 71, 92, 103, 104, 105, 106 

Pugefiurn, point 63,64 

Pulainenu, cove 132 

Puleto, river 62 

Pulluche, channel 29,30,37,38 

Pulinun, reef 73,121 

Puloine, poin t 133 

Puluque, or Puluqui, estuary 93 

, island 91, 92, 96, 97, 105, 116, 117 

, point 93 

Puno, town OD 316 

Punon, point 63 64 

Puqueldon, cove 101 

Purgatorio, point 210 

Puyo, island 29 

Puyuguapi, channel 47 

Q. 

Quedal,cape. 128,130 

Quehuy, island 75 121 

Quelan, bay 83 

, channel 83 

, cove 83 

, point 82 

Quelen, point 209 

Quelirquehui, point 77 

Quemado, mountain 331 

Quenac, island 74, 121 

Quenche, graving place 70, 121 

Queniao, point 69, 90 

Quenu, island 90, 91, 92, 105, 106 

, passage 106 

Quenuir, point 123 

, river 124 

Quesahuen, point 52 

Quereo, cove 210 

Quetaleo, port 74 

Queten, cove 117 

Quetralmahue, cove 61 

Quetrue, estuary 89,98 

Quetrulauquen, district 98 

, roadstead 98 

Queule, bay 157 

, cove 157 

, point 157 

, river 158 

, village 161 

Queullin, island 97, 100, 105, 116 

Queytao, island - 44 

Quiaca, point 311 



Page. 

Quicavi, lagoon 72 

, bill 71 

, point 121 

Quidico, bay 166 

, river 167 

Quiebra Olla, rock 183,186 

Quihua, bank 89 

, island 87,89,91 

Quilan, cape 57 

.island 57 

Quilca, cove 321 

, gorge and valley 320, 321 

, town 289 

, plain 318 

Quilimari, village 210 

Quillahua, point 126 

Quillaipe, point 107 

, island 107 

, volcano 108 

Quilque, point 86,87,106 

Quinchao, channel 76 

, island 75,76 

Quinched, estuary 93 

, harbor 7£ 

, village 79 

Quinchel, islands 45 

Quinchilca, river 152 

Quintay,cove 198 

, Fraile, rock 198 

Quintergen, point 71 

Quintero, bay 204 

, point 203,204 

, rocks 203,206 

Quintraguin, point 65 

Quirico, bay 166 

Quiriquina, island 183, 186 

, channel 184 

Quinta Calcal, islet 392 

Quintacalzones, islets 364 

Quitralco, estuary 51 

R. 

Raimapu, island 50 

Raimenco, cove 172 

Ramahuel, cove 38 

, islet -- 38 

Ralun,bay 108,109,110,113 

Rama, de la, point 144 

Ranco, lake 135 

Ranquil, cove 170 



INDEX. 



423 



Page. 

Ranquil, port 170 

Eanu, roadstead 132 

, river 132 

Rapel, shoal 196,202 

•, river 196 

, point 196 

Raper, cape 27 

Rare, cove 189 

Raya de Tique, eddies 69,86 

Redonda, point 117 

Reindeer, rock 387 

Refuge, port 29 

Refugio, island 45, 120 

Relan, cove 77 

,reef 77 

, village 77 

Reloncavi, estuary.... 97, 101, 106, 114, 115, 

116, 118 

, sound 89,92 

, river 108,109,113,114 

, gulf of.. 97, 102, 103, 104, 105, 109, 113, 

116 

Relonhue, point 108, 113, 115 

Renaolinos, point 66 

Renihue, estuary 119 

,lake 149 

Rescue, point 28 

Rey, del, island 152 

Reyes, island 187 

Rialejo, island 150 

Ricardo, island 37 

Rimac, river 359,360 

Rincon, point 252, 253 

Rinion, point 258 

Ripio, point 333 

Riscos de los, road 165 

Riveros, island 30 

Roca-Blanca, point 197 

Rocky, point 275, 397 

Rojas, island 38 

Rolecha, cove 117 

Rollizo, mountain chain 108 

Romasa, estuary de la 153, 154 

Ronca, cove 155, 157 

.point 157,158 

Rosario, bank 99 

,harnlet 92,95 

Round, islet 348,357 

Rowlett, island 41 

Ruca Cura, river 161 



Pag«. 

Rulo, estuary 95 

Rumen, point 91 

Rumena, cape 171, 175 

Rundel, hank 187,168 

S. 

Saguas, cove 324 

Sal, point 401 

- — de Obispo, factories 307 

Salado, bay 240 

, point 241 

, river 5 

Salaverry, port 383 

Salcedo or Saludo, rock 335 

Salina, la, point 216 

Salma de Sechura, salt-works 396 

Salinas, bay, (Peru) 363 

, mountain 363 

, point 363 

,cove, (Chile,) 194 

, point, (Chile,) 208,210 

, point, (Juan Fernandez) 258 

Salinillo, cove 333 

Salto de Gorgolen, hamlet 169 

Frayle, cliff, cove, bight . . 345 

Sama, cove .- 312 

, bill '. 311 

, point 311 

Samanco, bay 374 

,bell 374 

, hill 374 

, point 373 

San Agustin, bank 95 

, hamlet 96 

, point 96 

, castle..., 186 

San Andres, village 336 

, bay 27 

San Antonio, bank 60 

.channel 87,89 

,cape 129,130 

,fort 199 

, point 87 

, Viejo, cove 197 

, Nuevo, cove 197 

San Bartholome, cove 385 

San Carlos. (See Ancud.) 

, point 256 

, point and fort 138, 142 

Estevan, gulf or port 28 



424 



INDEX. 



Page. 
San Felix and San Ambrosio,islands 295 

Francisco, (see Sauce islet). .. 344 

, (See Elefantes estuary.) 

, (See Paquica, cape) 276 

San Gallan, Boqueron de, (Peru) .332, 334, 

337 

, island, (Peru) 293,334 

, point, (Chile) 62,65 

, Maullin,town 125, 126 

Jos6, bank 117 

, town 233 

de Larnbayeque, port 394 

, village 394 

Mariquina, town 150 

Juan cove, (Chile,) 144 

, river 144 

, point, (Peru) 327 

, port, (Peru) 327 

Bautista, bay 254, 256, 257 

Julien, point 145 

Lorenzo, island.. 288, 293, 347, 356, 358 

Luciano, village 271 

Luis, cove 128 

Malo, rock 3L7 

Melchor, island 30, 47 

Miguel, port 38 

Nicolas, bay 328 

, point 328 

San Pedro, bay, (Chile) 129 

, passage . 85 

, island and port 56, 121 

, islets and point 128, 129 

, point 101 

, point 251 

, rock.. 89 

, village, (Peru) 389 

, Nolasco, river 124 

Rafael, channel 48,89 

, lagoon 53 

Ramon , bay 38 

, lagoon 93 

, point 93,96,97 

Tade9, river 52 

Vicente, port 182 

, bay 186,187 

Santa, bay 380 

, island 377,379 

, hill 377,379 

, river 380 

valley 380 



Page. 

Santa Anna, cove 320 

Clara, island, (Chile) 259 

, island, (Pe rti) 402 

Inez, hill 209 

Magdalena, island 30 

Maria, island 172, 174, 180 

, roadstead 174 

Rosa, hamlet 393 

, islands 331 

Santander, point 368 

Santa Teresa, point 66 

Santiago, city 202,204 

Santo Domingo, bank 117 

, point J 95 

, port 120 

, chapel 100 

Sauu, mines 365 

Sarco, bay 235 

Sauce, islet 344 

Scotch well, harbor 41 

Sebastiana, islet 123 

Sechura, bay 396 

, village 397 

, desert 395 

Seluian, rock 66 

Senec, island 6 

Senhuao, island 118 

Sepuhuapi, bank 117 

Serena, cove 194 

,1a, city 229 

Serrate, channel 33 1 , 332 

Shearwater, bank 90 

Sheep, cove 55 

Siete Hermanas, coast 204 

Signal, hill 228 

Silla de Paita, mountain 397, 399 

Santa Inez, hill 209 

Silachilu, island 46 

Si les, islets 177 

Sil va, estuary 54 

Simon Reyes, bank 145 

Simpson, island 51 

Sisquelan, peninsula 53 

Sixteen-feet rock 387 

Sky ring, island 37 

Small, cove -- ■ 55 

Socorro, island 40 

Solar, cove 345,357 

, hill 345,357 

, point 345,357 



INDEX. 



425 



Page. 

Solitaria. islets 76, 122 

, rock 127 

Solitario, island 361 

Sopladera, point 313 

Sotomo, bay 110,112 

, point 109,112 

South, bank 88 

, island 341 

, (Guanapa,) island 381 

Stewart, bay 28 

Stokes, islands 41 

Sucre, city 266 

Sugar-loaf, mountain 228 

,rock 183 

Sulivan, peaks, (Chili) 41 

, mountain, (Peru) 389 

Stipe, bay 367 

, point 367 

Surgidero, cove 101 

T. 

Tablas, cape 211, 214, 216, 213 

, roadstead 215 

Tabon, island 89, 90, 92, 105 

Tac, island 73 

Tacna, town 310 

Tacora, mountains 311 

Talara, point 400 

Talca, cape 189 

Talcahuano, head 184, 185 

, port and town 183, 185 

Talcan, inlet 76 

, island 75, 119 

Taltal, port, point, and bay 251 

Tambillo, island 364 

Tambo, valley 269,315,317 

de Mora, port 339 

Tanaca,cove 325 

Tangbac, mountain 46, 47 

,port ,. 47 

Tanque, anchorage 221 

, village , 221 

Tapado,bank 209 

Tarapaca', mountain 301 

Tatoral, cove 219 

Tautil, island 93, 96, 97, 100, 105 

, point 93 

, straits 99 

Taytao, cape 28 

, peninsula 29, 30 

28 C 



Page. 

Teatinos, point 230 

Tebao, point 81 

Teja,isle '...149,150 

Telegraph, point 398,399 

Temblador, cove 231, 232 

Tempanos, de los, river 52 

Tenoun, point 73,121 

Tenglo, channel 103 

, island 101, 102, 103, 105 

Tenquehuen, island 29, 31, 37, 38 

Tenquetil, island 74 

Tenuy, point 59 

Tetas, de las, point 267, 263, 269 

, las, mountain 369 

Thompson, estuary 54 

Three Fingers, island 40 

Ticke, point 312 

Tictoc,bay 120 

, point 120 

Tides 21,36 

Tierra Colorada , cove 393, 399 

Tilao, estuary 89 

Tilgo, island 230 

Tilicura, lagoon 194 

Tique, point 69,86 

Tiquen,bay 100 

Tiquia,reef 74 

Tirna, bay 166 

, cape 165, 166 

, river 165. 166 

Tocopilla, town and cove 275 

Todos los Santos, lake 105, 114 

Tolten, village 159, 160, 161 

, mission 161 

, point 159 

, river 5, 159 

Toma Calla, point 362 

Tomas, point 367 

Tome", port 186,183 

,cove 188 

, town 188 

=,hill 188 

Tongoy,bay 220 

,port 221 

, village 221,222 

, peninsula 221,222 

Tontado, beach 236 

Topaze, rock 64 

Topolcama,bank 196 

.roadstead 194 



426 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Topolcama, point 195,203 

Torca, lagoon 194 

Torna Galeones, river. . .143, 144, 145, 146, 

151, 152, 153 

Toro, cay 112 

,rock 303 

, point 196 

, shoal . ... 196 

,reef 233 

Tortolas, islets 251 

Tortoral Bajo, creek 239 

, valley 239 

, point .' 239 

della Lengua de Vaca, cove 220 

Tortuga, shoal and rock 205 

, point 224,225,228 

, mountain 375, 377 

,rock 312 

, islet 373 

Totoralillo, bay 231,247 

,port 231,233 

, village 231 

Trahuilco, river 135 

Traiguen, is.and 30,38,50 

Tralhuempue, estuary 107 

Tralicura, estuary 171 

Trana, cove 175 

Tranque, channel 83 

, island 82,83 

Transito, island 46 

Trarado, point 190 

Tranco, creek 175 

Trentelhue, point 116,117,118 

Tres Bocas de Futa, confluent. 151, 153, 154 

Cruces, confluent 150 

Cruces, cape 67 

, point 121 

, point, 197 

Hermanos, rock 312 

Hermanas, bank 142, 146, 147 

Marias, islets 335 

Montes, cape 27 

Trinidad, point 144 

Tronador, mountain 105, 114 

Trugue.hill 163,164 

Trujillo, town 383 

Trnjillana, pass 332 

Trumao, hamlet 135 

Tuahuencayec, channel 53 

TuLul, river 176 



Page. 

Tucapel,hill 167,168 

,point 168 

, village 170 

Tuhuenahuenec, port 46 

Tuman, roadstead 195 

Tumbes, peninsula 183, 184, 185, 186 

Tumbez, bay and river 402 

, town 402 

Tungo,hamlet 332 

Tunquen, cove 198 

Tupper, port 54 

Tupungato, volcano 5 

U. 

Uchaguipa, islet 170 

Unquillar, watering-place 252 

Upsallata, pass of 5, 192 

Usborne, island 28 

, mountain 366,367 

Useless, cove 28 

Utarupa, channel 37, 38 

V. 

Vacaria, bay 258 

Vaca, rock 303 

Valdez, island 152 

Valdivia, port 105, 140, 157 

, town 148 

, river 5, 143, 144, 145, 146, 152 

, mountains 137 

,bay 139,143 

Valenzuela, island 150 

Vallenar, island 39 

,roadstead 39,40 

, town 40 

Valparaiso, bay 199 

,city 201,295 

Valverde, island 151 

Vano, points 219 

Varas, port 104, 105 

Varillasmo, hill 126 

Vascunan, cape 234 

Venados, de los, island 151 

Ventana, point 218 

,rock 191 

Ventanilla, point 204, 206 

Verde Isla, islet 211,214 

Verdugo, estuary 54 

Vergara, river 182 

Vichuquen,town 194 



INDEX. 



427 



Page. 

Vichugueu, lagoon 193 

Vicuna, channel 38 

Vidal, estuary 54 

Viej as, las, island 331,332 

Viewport 170 

Vilcun, mountain 119 

Villagran, hill 177 

.point 177 

Villarica, volcano 5, 150, 160 

Vilos, de los, village 213 

,point 210 

, roadstead 212 

Vindo, point 258 

Vini, river 381 

Vitor, gorge 1.-307,308 

Viuda, islet 373 

, islet 380 

, rock 184 

Vogelberg, rocks 175 

Voroa, river 159 

W. 

West, bay 257,258 

Westoff, island 44 

Whale's back, (Ballena,) bank 356 

White, rock 56 

, islets 317 

Wickham, channel 37 

Williams, island 41 

, channel 37, 38 

Wilson, mount 333 

Winds 13-33 

Y. 

Yahuecha, point 91, 92, 94, 95 

Yal, cove 81 

,bay 81 



Page. 

Yal, promontory 80 

Yalad, cove 85 

Yanchid, island 118 

Yanes,cove 169,170 

, islets 170 

Yanteles, mountain 119 

Yapes, cove and islet 301 

Yate,bay 109 

, mountain 108, 115 

Yatec, point 85 

Yates, channel 30 

, port 40 

Yemcouma, island 57 

Yenellenchico, river 161 

Yerba Buena, cove 314 

>gorge 314 

, point 314 

, village 230 

Yglesia.rock , 191 

Ymerquiiia, islet 75 

Ynche-Mo, island 29,37 

Yngles, bay 244 

, bank , 62 

,port .....242,244 

Ypun, island 30,40 

Yunque, mountain 255,256,257 

Yuste, isthmus 59 

Z. 

ZaQa, point 390 

Zapallar, point 207,208 

, cove 206 

Zarate, islet 333 

Zealous, rock 188 

Zehuilanquen, river 134 

Zorritos, cove 401 

Zorro,bay 191 






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